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Northern  Germany  as  far  as  the  Bavarian  and  Anstrian  frontiers. 

With  49  Maps  and  75  Plans.  Fourteenth  edition.  1904    .  .  8  marks 
Southern  Germany  (Wurtemberg  and  Bavaria).  With  30  Maps  and 

23  Plans.  Tenth  edition.  1907 6  marks 


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including  the  Seven  Mountains, . 

Taunus,    the  Odenwald  and 
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n.  1906 7  marks 


Great  Britain.  England,  Wales,  and  SooUand,  With  22  Maps, 
58  Plans,  and  a  Panorama.  Sixth  edition.  1906 10  marks 

London  and  its  Environs.  With  5  Maps  and  24  Plans.  Fifteenth 
edition.  1908 6  marks 

Greeoe,  the  Greek  lelanda,  and  anExonrsion  to  Crete.  With  11  Maps, 
25  Plans,  and  a  Panorama  of  Athens.  Third  edition.  1905.  8  marks 

Holland,  see  Bel^m  and  HoUand, 

Italy: 

/.  Northern  Italy,  inclnding  Leghorn,  Florence,  Eavenna,  and  Rentes 
through  Switzerland  and  Austria.  With  30  Maps  and  40  Plans. 
Thirteenth  edition    1906 8  marks 

//.  Central  Italy  and  Rome.  With  14  Maps,  49  Plans,  a  Panorama 
of  Borne,  a  view  of  the  Forum  Eomannm,  and  the  Arms  of  the 
Popes  since  1417.  Fourteenth  edition.  1904 7  marks  50  pf . 

///.  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily,  with  Excursions  to  Malta,  Sardinia, 
Tunis,  and  Corfu.  With  30  Maps  and  28  Plans.  Fifteenth  edition. 
1908 6  marks 

Italy  from  ihe  Alps  to  Naples.  With  26  Maps  and  44  Plans. 
1904 8  marks 

Norway,  SvT'eden,  and  Denmark,  including  an  Excursion  to 
Spitsbergen.  With  37  Maps,  22  Plans,  and  3  Panoramas.  Eighth 
edition.  1903     8  marks 

Palestine  and  Syria,  including  the  principal  routes  through  Meso- 
potamia and  Babylonia,  With  20  Maps,  52  Plans,  and  a  Panorama 
of  Jerusalem.  Fourth  edition.  1906 12  marks 

Portugal,  see  Spain  and  Portugal, 

Biviera,  see  Southern  France, 

Russia,  in  German  or  French  only : 

Russland.  Europ.  BuBland,  Eisenbahnen  in  Russ.-Asien,  Teheran,  Pe- 
king. Mit  20  Earten,  40  Planen  u.  11  Grundr.  6.Aufl.  1904.  15  marks 

Russischer  SprachfUhrer,  4.  Aufl.  1903 1  mark 

Russie.  Avec  19  cartes  et  32  plans.  S^  Edition.  1902   ....  15  marks 

Manuel  de  langue  Russe.  3«  edition.  1903 1  mark 

Scotland,  see  Great  Britain, 

Spain  and  Portugal,  with  Excursions  to  Tangier  and  the  Balearic 
Islands,  With  9  Maps  and  57  Plans.  Third  edition.  1908.  16  marks 

Switzerland  and  the  adjacent  portions  of  Italy,  Savoy,  and  Tyrol. 
With  69  Maps,  18  Plans,  and  11  Panoramas.  Twenty-second  edition. 
1907 * 8  marks 

Tyrol,  see  TJie  Eastern  Alps, 

The  United  States,  with  an  Excursion  iato  Mexico,  With  25  Maps 
and  35  Plans.  Third  edition.  1904 12  marks 


I         LONDON 

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FIFTEENTH  BEVISED  EDITIONi 


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LEIPZIG:  KARL  BAEDEKER,  PUBLISHER 

LONDON:   DULAU  AND  CO.,  37  SOHO  SQUARE,  W. 
NEW  YORK:   CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS,  153-167  FIFTH  AVE. 

1908 
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PREFACE. 


The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  for  London  is  to  enable 
the  traveller  so  to  employ  his  time,  his  money,  and  his 
energy,  that  he  may  derive  the  greatest  possible  amount  of 
pleasure  and  instruction  from  his  visit  to  the  greatest  city 
in  the  modern  world. 

As  several  excellent  English  guide-books  to  London  al- 
ready existed ,  the  Editor  in  1878  published  the  first  English 
edition  of  the  present  Handbook  with  some  hesitation ,  not- 
withstanding  tne  encouragement  he  received  from  numerous 
English  and  American  correspondents,  who  were  already 
familiar  with  the  distinctive  characteristics  of  'Baedeker  s 
Handbooks'.  So  favourable  a  reception,  however,  was  accord- 
ed to  the  first  edition  that  the  issue  of  a  second  became  ne- 
cessary iij  little  more  than  a  year,  while  thirteen  other  editions 
have  since  been  called  for.  The  present  volume  embodies  the 
most  recent  information,  down  to  the  month  of  June,  1908, 
obtained  in  the  course  of  personal  visits  to  the  places  de- 
scribed, and  from  the  most  trustworthy  sources. 

In  the  preparation  of  the  Handbook  the  Editor  -has  re- 
ceived most  material  assistance  from  several  English  and 
American  friends  who  are  intimately  acquainted  with  the 
great  Metropolis. 

Particular  attention  has  been  devoted  to  the  description 
of  the  great  public  collections,  such  as  the  National  Gallery, 
the  British  Museum,  the  Wallace  Collections,  the  National 
Portrait  Gallery,  the  Tate  Gallery,  and  the  South  Kensington 
Museum,  to  all  of  which  the  utmost  possible  space  has  been 
allotted. 

The  Introduction  is  intended  as  a  brief  condensation  of 
general  and  historical  information  most  likely  to  be  of  use 
and  interest  to  the  traveller  on  his  way  to  London,  while 
under  the  heading  Preliminary  Information  are  summarized 
all  the  practical  details  that  are  best  calculated  to  make  a 
stranger  feel  at  home  in  London,  and  to  familiarise  him  with 
its  manners  and  customs.  While  the  descriptive  part  of  the 
work  is  topographically  arranged,  so  that  the  reader  may  see 
at  a  glance  which  of  the  sights  of  London  may  be  visited 
together,  the  preliminary  portion  classifies  the  principal  sights 
according  to  their  subjects,  in  order  to  present  the  reader 
with  a  convenient  index  to  their  character,  and  to  facilitate 
his  selection  of  those  most  congenial  to  his  taste.  As,  however, 
it  has  not  been  the  Editor's  purpose  to  write  an  exhaustive 


Yi  PREFACE. 

account  of  so  stupendous  a  city,  but  merely  to  describe  the 
most  important  objects  of  general  interest  contained  in  it,  he 
need  hardly  observe  that  the  information  required  by  spe- 
cialists of  any  kind  can  be  given  only  to  a  very  limited  extent 
in  the  present  work.  The  most  noteworthy  sights  are  indi- 
cated by  asterisks. 

The  list  of  Hotels  and  Restaurants  enumerated  in  the 
Handbook  comprises  the  most  important  establishments  and 
many  of  humbler  pretension.  Those  which  the  Editor  has 
reason  to  believe  especially  worthy  of  commendation  in  pro- 
portion to  their  charges  are  denoted  by  asterisks;  but  doubt- 
less there  are  many  of  equal  excellence  among  those  not  so 
distinguished.  The  hotels  at  the  West  End  and  at  the  prin- 
cipal railway-stations  are  the  most  expensive,  while  the  inns 
in  the  less  fashionable  quarters  of  tne  Metropolis  generally 
afford  comfortable  accommodation  at  moderate  charges. 

The  Maps  and  Plans,  upon  which  the  utmost  care  has  been 
bestowed,  will  also,  it  is  hoped,  be  found  serviceable. 
Those  relating  to  London  itself  (see  p.  x])  are  placed  at  the  end 
of  the  volume  in  a  separate  cover,  which  may  if  desired  be 
severed  from  the  Handbook  altogether.  The  subdivision  of 
the  Plan  of  the  city  into  three  sections  of  different  colours  will 
be  found  greatly  to  facilitate  reference ,  as  it  obviates  the 
necessity  of  unfolding  a  large  sheet  of  paper  at  each  consult- 
ation. 

The  Routes  to  places  of  interest  in  the  Environs  of  London, 
although  very  brief,  will  probably  suffice  for  the  purposes 
of  an  ordinary  visit.  Some  of  the  longer  excursions  that 
appeared  in  earlier  editions  have  now  been  transferred  to 
Baedeker^ »  Handbook  to  GretU  Britain, 

To  hotel-owners,  tradesmen,  and  others  the  Editor  begs  to 
intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  dealing  and  courtesy  to- 
wards travellers  is  the  sole  passport  to  his  commendation, 
and  that  advertisements  of  every  kind  are  strictly  excluded 
from  his  Handbooks.  Hotel-keepers  are  also  warned  against 

Sersons  representing  themselves  as  agents  for  Baedeker's 
[andbooks. 


Abbreviations. 
M.  =  Engl,  mile}  hr.  8  hoar;  min.  sss  minute ;  r.  a=  right',  1.  =  left; 
N.  =  north,  northwardB,  northern;  S.  s  south,  etc.;  E.  s  east^  etc.; 
W.  B  west,  etc.;  B.  =  Route  or  room;  B.  =  breakfast;  D.  s=  dinner; 
A.  s=  attendance;  L.  =  luncheon;  pens.  =  pension  (i.e.  board,  lodging,  and 
attendance);  rfints.  =  refreshments;  carr.  =  carriage;  c,  ca.  =  circa,  about. 
The  letter  d,  with  a  date,  after  a  name  indicates  the  year  of  the  person's 
death. 

Aeteriaks  are  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 


CONTENTS. 

Intro  daction.  Page 

I.  Money.  Expenses.  Season.  Passports.   Custom  House. 

Time xi 

II.  Routes  to  and  from  London xii 

III.  Railways xvi 

IV.  Outline  of  English  History xvii 

V.  Historical  Sketch  of  London xxiii 

YI.  Topography,  Statistics,  and  Administration xxvii 

YII.  Books  relating  to  London xxxv 

Preliminary  Information. 

1.  Arrival  in  London 1 

2.  Hotels.   Boarding  Houses.   Private  Lodgings 1 

3.  Restaurants.  Dining   Rooms.  Oyster  Shops  ^ 10 

4.  Gaf^s.   Tea  Rooms.  Confectioners 16 

5.  Baths 17 

6.  Cabs.   Omnibuses.    Tramways.   Coaches 18 

7.  Railway  Termini  and  Suburban  Trains 26 

8.  Underground  Railways 29 

9.  Steamboats 38 

10.  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices.    Parcels  Companies.    Com- 
mlssionnaires.   Messengers.   Lady  Couriers 39 

11.  Theatres,  Music  Halls,  and  other  Entertainments   ...  43 

12.  Concerts  and  Exhibitions  of  Pictures 49 

13.  Races,  Sports,  and  Games 51 

14.  Shops,  Bazaars,  and  Markets.    The  Co-operative  System  56 

15.  Libraries,  Reading  Rooms,  and  Newspapers 65 

16.  Embassies   and  Consulates.     Colonial  Representatives. 
Bankers 67 

17.  Divine  Service 69 

18.  Guilds.   Charities.   Societies.    Clubs 72 

19.  General  Hints .    . 76 

20.  Preliminary  Ramble 78 

21.  Disposition  of  Time 81 

Sights  of  London. 
I.  The  City. 

1.  St.  Paul's  Cathedral 85 

2.  General  Post  Office.   St.  Giles.   Holborn 95 

Paternoster  How.  Peers  Statue,  95.  —  Kewgate  Street. 
Central  Criminal  Court,  97.  —  St.  Sepulchre's  Churcb. 
Holborn  Viaduct,  93.  —  Ely  Chapel,  99. 

3.  Smlthfleld.     St.  Bartholomew's  Hospital  and  Church. 
Charterhouse 100 

London  Central  Heat  Market,  100.  —  St.  John's  Gate,  103. 
—  Bunhill  Fields  Cemetery.  Friends'  Burial  Ground. 
Honourable  Artillery  Company,  104.  —  Wesley  Museum^  100. 


viii  CONTENTS. 

Page 

4.  Gheapside.   Gaildliall.   Mansion  House 106 

Ooldsmiihs'  Hall,  106.  —  Bow  Church,  107.  ~  Greflham 
College,  HI.  —  MercerB'  Hall.  Qroeers^  Hall.  Armoorera* 
Hall,  112.  —  St.  Stephen's  Church,  113. 

5.  The  Bank  of  England.   The  Exchange 113 

Bankers'  Clearing  House.  Stock  Exchanse,  114.  —  Drapers' 
Hall.  Dutch  Church,  116.  —  Lloyd's,  116.  —  Merchant  Tay- 
lors'Hall.  St.  Helen's,  117.— Bishopsgate.  Shoreditch,  118. — 
Stoke  Kewlngton.  Comhill.  Leadenhall Market.  St.  Andrew's  . 
Undershaft.  St.  Catherine  Cree,  119.  —  Com  Exchange. 
St.  Olaye's,  130.  —  Houndsditch.    Minories,  121. 

6.  London  Bridge.    The  Monument.    Lower  Thames  Street     121 

St.  Mary  Woolnoth,  121.  —Fishmongers' Hall,  133.— Vintners' 
Hall.  St.  Magnus.  Billingsgate.  Custom  House,  134.  —  Coal 
Exchange.   St.  Donstan's  in  the  East.  St.  Mary  at  HiU,  125. 

7.  Thames  Embankment.   Blackfriars  Bridge.    Queen  Vic- 
toria Street.   Cannon  Street 125 

Cleopatra's  Needle,  126.  —  Office  of  the  Times.  128.  —  Bible 
Society,  129.  —  Heralds'  College.  London  Stone,  130.  — 
Southwark  Bridge,  131. 

8.  The  Tower 131 

Trinity  House,  138.  —  All  Hallows,  Barking.  Tower  Sub- 
way.   Eoyal  Mint,  139.  —  Tower  Bridge,  140. 

9.  The  Tort  and  Docks 140 

St.  Katharine  Docks.  London  Docks,  141.  —  Thames 
Tunnel.  Rotherhithe  Tunnel.  Surrey  Commercial  Docks, 
142.  —  West  India  Docks.  East  India  Docks.  Millwall 
Docks.    Blackwall  Tunnel.    Victoria  and  Albert  Docks,  143. 

10.  Bethnal  Green   Museum.   Victoria  Park 144 

Toynbee  Hall,  14i.  —  People's  Palace,  14B. 

11.  Fleet  Street.  Chancery  Lane.  Temple.  Courts  of  Justice     148 

St.  Bride's.  148.  —  St.  DunsUn's  in  the  West,  149.  —  Kew 
Record  Office,  160.  —  Patent  Office.  Lincoln's  Inn,  151.  -— 
Gray's  Inn,  162.  —  Temple  Church,  163.  —  Temple  Bar,  165. 

n.  The  West  End. 

12.  Strand.   Somerset  House.   Waterloo  Bridge 157 

St.  Clement  Danes,  167.  —  Aldwych  and  Kingsway.  Roman 
Bath.  King's  College.  159.  —  St.  Mary  le  Strand,  159.  — 
Savoy  Chapel,  160.  —  The  Adelphi.  Society  of  Art*,  161.  — 
Charing  Cross  Station.    Eleanor's  Cross,  162. 

13.  Trafalgar  Square 162 

Nelson  Column,  162.  —  St.  Martin's  in  the  Fields,  163.  — 
Charinp:  Cross.  Charing  Cross  Boad.  National  Life  Boat 
Institution,  164.  —  Shaftesbury  Avenue,  166. 

14.  The  National  Gallery 166 

16.  The  National  Portrait  Gallery 197 

16.  Royal  College  of  Surgeons.   Soane  Museum 207 

Lincoln^s  Inn  Fields,  207.  —  Covent  Garden  Market,  210. 
—  St.  Paul's.    Garrick  Club,  211. 

17.  Whitehall 211 

Admiralty.  Horse  Guards.  War  Office,  212.  —  Banqueting 
Hall.  Royal  United  Service  Museum,  214.  —  Government 
Offices.  Montague  House,  215.  —  New  Scotland  Yard. 
Westminster  Bridge,  216. 

i8t  Houses  of  Parliament  and  Westminster  Hall 216 

S^  Margaret's  Church,  224- 


CONTENTS.  li 

Page 

19.  Westminster  Abbey 226 

Westminster  Golamn.  ■  Westminster  Schoo),  248.  —  Cborch 
House.  Westminster  HospiUl.  Victoria  Street,  249.  —  West- 
minster Cathedral,  2G0. 

20.  The  Tate  Gallery 251 

8t.  John  the  Eyangelist's,  251.  —  Yanxhall  Bridge,  260. 

21.  Pall  Mall  and  Piccadilly 260 

Haymarket.  Waterloo  Place.  Crimean  Monument.  York 
Column,  261.  —  St.  Jameses  Square.  Marlborough  House,  262. 
—  St.  James's  Street,  268.  —Burlington  House.  Boyal  Society, 
264.  —  Boyal  Academy,  265.  —  St.  James's  Church,  266.  — 
Leicester  Square,  267. 

22.  Regent  Street.   Oxford  Street.   Holbom  .   .   .   .  ^.   .   .    267 

Geological  Museum.  Hanover  Square.  St.  George'o,  26S.  — 
Polytechnic.  All  Saints'.  Carendish  Square.  Langham  Place. 
Portland  Place,  269.  —  Orosvenor  Square.  Berkeley  Square. 
Bond  Street,  270.  —  Soho  Square.  Tottenham  Court  Road. 
St.  Giles-in-the-Fields,  271.  —  Bloomsbury.  University  Col- 
lege. Catholic  Apostolic  Church,  272.  —  St.  Pancras'  Church. 
Canonbury  Tower,  278.  —  Foundling  Hospital,  274. 

23.  The  Wallace  Collection 275 

24.  Rejfent's  Park 284 

Marylebone,  284.  —  Zoological  Gardens,  280.  —  Botanic 
Gardens.  St.  Katharine's  Hospital.  Primrose  Hill,  289.  - 
Lord's  Cricket  Ground,  290. 

25.  The  British  Museum 290 

26.  St.  James's  Palace  and  Park.   Buckingham  Palace  ...     321 

Queen  Victoria  Memorial,  323.  —  Boyal  Mews,  324.  — 
Green  Park,  325. 

27.  Hyde  Park.   Kensington  Gardens  and  Palace 325 

St.  George's  Cemetery,  330.  —  Paddington.  Kensal  Green 
Cemetery,  331. 

28.  Private  Mansions  around  Hyde  Park  and  St.  James's  .    .     332 

Grosvenor  House,  332.  —  Stafford  House.  Bridgewater  House, 
333.  —  Lansdowne  House.  Apsley  House,  335.  —  Dorchester 
House.  Lady  Brassey  Museum.  Devonshire  House,  835.  — 
Korthbrook  Collection.    Dr.  L.  Mond's  Collection,  337. 

29.  Albert  Memorial.   Albert  Hall.   Holland  House  ....     337 

Campden  Hill.    Leighton  House,  339. 

30.  Imperial  Institute.  University  of  London.  Natural  History 
Museum 340 

Royal  College  of  Music,  3^0  —  School  of  Art  Keedlework. 
Royal  College  of  Science,  342. 

31.  South  Kensington  Museum 345 

Exhibition  Galleries,  861.  —  The  Oratory,  866. 

32.  BelgraYla.   Chelsea 366 

Chelsea  Hospital.  Duke  of  York's  Military  School,  867.  — 
Carlyle's  House,  363.  —  Chelsea  Old  Church,  369. 

33.  Hampstead.  Highgate.  Alexandra  Palace.  Kensal  Green 
Cemetery 370 

Hampstead  Heath,  371.  —  Highgate  Cemetery.  Waterlow 
Park,  873. 

m.  The  Surrey  Side. 

34.  St.  Saviour's  Church 374 

Guy's  Hospital.  Barclay  and  Perkins's  Brewery,  377.  —  Cam- 
berweU,  378.  —  South  London  Fine  Art  Gallery,  379. 


X  CONTENTS. 

Page 
36.  Lambeth  Palace.  Bethlehem  Hospital.  Battersea  Park  .  379 
Albert  Embankment.  St.  Thomaa'a  HoipiUl,  379.  —  St. 
George's  Cathedral.  Ghriit  Charch,  381.  —  DouUon*i  Pottery 
Wdrka.  Ecnnington  Oval.  Vauxhall  and  Kennington  Parka. 
Glapham  Common.  Clapham  Church*  389.  —  Batteraea  Poly- 
technic, 8^3.  —  Direa'  Flonr  Hilla,  384. 

Excursions  from  London. 

36.  The  Thames  from  London  Bridge  to  Hampton  Court   .    .  385 

37.  The  Thames  from  London  Bridge  to  Gravesend    ....  389 

38.  Greenwich  Hospital  and  Paik 391 

39.  Woolwich 395 

40.  Dalwich.    The  OrysUl  Palace 396 

Brockwell  Park,  400.  —  Homiman  Huaeum,  403. 

41.  Hampton  Court.   Richmond.   Kew 404 

42.  Epping  Forest.   Waltham  Ahbey.   Rye  fiouse     ....     414 

Chingford,    415.  —  Edmonton.    Enfield,  416.  —  From  Bye 
Houae  to  Hertford,  417. 

43.  St.  Albans 417 

Whitchurch,  417.  —  Hatfield  Houae,  418. 

44.  Harrow.    Rickmans worth.   Chenies.    Chesham     ....     419 

45.  Windsor.   Eton 422 

From  Slough  to  Stoke  Pogea  and  Burnham  Beeches,  422.  «- 
Bunnimede.    Holloway  College,  423. 

46.  Gravesend.    Chatham.   Rochester 431 

Eltham,  432.  —  Cobham  Hall,  433. 

List  of  Eminent  Persons 435 

Index 440 

Index  to  Plan  of  London  in  the  Appendix. 

List  of  KapB  and  Plans. 

1.  Railway  Map  of  England,  before  the  title-page. 

2.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  London,  between  pp.  384  and  385. 

3.  Key-Plan  of  London. 


5  a 


I-  o 


4.  Plan  of  London  in  three  sections. 

5.  Special  Plan  of  the  West  End  from  Baker  Street  to  Soho, 

6.  ;,  „      „  Holbom,  Fleet  Street,  and  Strand. 

7.  „  „      .  the  City. 

8.  „  „      ,;  the  West  End  from  Hyde  Park  and  Bel- 

grayia  to  the  Thames. 

9.  Railway  Map  of  London. 
10.  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  p.  88;  11.  Tower,  p.  132;  12.  National 

Gallery,  p.  166;  13.  National  Portrait  Gallery,  p.  197;  14. 
Houses  of  Parliament,  p.  216;  15.  Westminster  Abbey,  p.  226; 
16.  Tate  Gallery,  p.  252;  17,  18.  Wallace  Gallery,  pp.  276, 
281;  19.  Zoological  Gardens,  p.  286;  20.  British  Museum, 
p.  290;  21.  Natural  History  Museum,  p.  342;  22-24.  South 
Kensington  Museum,  survey-plan,  p.  346 ;  special  plans,  pp.  347 
and  358;  25.  Crystal  Palace,  p.  401 ;  26.  Environs  of  Hampton 
Court,  p.  406;  27.  Kew  Gardens,  p.  413;  28,  Windsor  Castle, 
p.  424.  


mTRODUCTION. 


I.   Money.  Expenses.  Season.  Passports.  Custom 
House.  Time. 

Money.  In  Great  Britain  alone  of  the  more  important  states 
of  Europe  the  currency  is  arranged  without  much  reference  to  the 
decimal  system.  The  ordinary  British  Gold  coins  are  the  sovereign 
or  pound  (I.  s  libra)  equal  to  20  shillings,  and  the  half-soToreign. 
The  Silver  coins  are  the  crown  (5  shillings),  the  half-crown,  the 
florin  (2  shillings),  the  shilling  (s.  s=  solidus),  and  the  six-penny 
and  three-penny  pieces.  The  Bron%e  coinage  consists  of  the  penny 
(d.  s  denarius),  of  which  12  make  a  shilling,  the  halfpenny  (}/^  d.), 
and  the  farthing  CV4c20*  '^^^  Guinea,  a  sum  of  21s.,  though  still 
used  in  reckoning,  has  heen  out  of  circulation  as  a  coin  since  ahout 
1820.  A  sovereign  is  approximately  equal  to  5  American  dollars, 
25  francs,  20  German  marks,  or  24^2  Austrian  crowns.  The  Bank 
of  England  issues  notes  for  5,  10,  20,  50,  and  100  pounds,  and 
upwards.  These  are  useful  in  paying  large  sums ;  but  for  ordinary 
use,  as  change  is  not  always  readily  procured,  gold  is  preferable. 
The  number  of  each  note  should  be  taken  down  in  a  pocket-book, 
as  there  is  a  bare  possibility  of  its  being  in  this  way  traced  and 
recovered,  if  lost  or  stolen.  Foreign  Money  does  not  circulate  in 
England,  and  should  always  be  exchanged  on  arrival  (see  p.  69). 
A  oonvenient  and  safe  mode  of  carrying  money  from  America  or  the 
Continent  is  in  the  shape  of  letters  of  credit,  or  circular  notes, 
which  are  readily  procurable  at  the  principal  banks.  The  travellers' 
cheques  issued  by  the  American  Express  Company  (pp.  xiy,  69)  or 
the  circular  notes  of  Messrs.  Cook  (p.  69)  may  be  found  convenient 
also.  A  larger  sum  than  will  suffice  for  the  day's  expenses  should 
never  be  carried  on  the  person,  and  gold  and  silver  coins  of  a  similar 
size  {e.g.  sovereigns  and  shillings)  should  not  be  kept  in  the  same 
pocket. 

Expenses.  The  cost  of  a  visit  to  London  depends,  of  course,  on 
the  habits  and  tastes  of  the  traveller.  If  he  lives  in  a  first-class 
hotel,  dines  at  the  table-d'h6te,  drinks  wine,  frequents  the  theatre 
and  other  places  of  amusemOnt,  and  drives  about  in  cabs  or  flys 
instead  of  using  the  economical  train  or  omnibus,  he  must  be 
prepared  to  spend  30-40«.  a  day  or  upwards.  Persons  of  moderate 
requirements,  however,  will  have  little  difficulty,  with  the  aid  of 
the  information  in  the  Handbook,  in  living  comfortably  and  seeing 
the  principal  sights  of  London  for  15-200.  a  day  or  even  less. 

Season.  The  'London  Season'  is  chiefly  comprised  within  the 
months  of  May,  June,  and  July,  when  Parliament  is  sitting,  the 
aristocracy  are  at  their  town-residences,  the  greatest  artistes  in  the 
world  axe  performing  at  the  Opera,  and  the  picture  exhibitions  are 


xii  1.    SEASON.   PASSPORTS.   CUSTOM  HOUSE. 

open.  Families  who  desiie  to  obtain  comfortable  accommodation 
had  better  be  in  London  to  secure  it  by  the  end  of  April ;  single 
travellers  can,  of  conrse,  more  easily  And  lodgings  at  any  time. 

Paiiports  are  not  necessary  in  England,  though  occasionally 
useful  in  procuring  delivery  of  registered  and  poate  restanU  letters 
(comp.  p.  39).  American  travellers,  who  intend  to  proceed  from 
London  to  the  Continent,  should  provide  themselves  with  passports 
before  leaving  home.  Passports,  however,  may  also  be  obtained  by 
personal  application  at  the  American  Embassy  in  London  (p.  67). 

Custom  House.  Almost  the  only  dutiable  articles  likely  to 
be  in  the  possession  of  ordinary  travellers  are  spirits  (including 
perfumed  spirits)  and  tobacco,  but  half-a-pint  of  the  former  and 
V2lb.  of  the  latter  (including  cigars)  are  usually  passed  free  •of 
duty,  if  duly  declared  and  not  found  concealed.  Passengers  from 
the  Channel  Islands  are  allowed  only  half  these  quantities.  On 
larger  quantities  duty  must  be  paid  at  the  rate  of  12«.  Ad,  to  i9s.  id, 
per  gallon  of  spirits  and  3a.  to  5«.  6(2.  per  pound  of  tobacco.  A  small 
fine  is  leviable  also  on  packets  of  tobacco  or  cigars  weighing  less 
than  SOlbs. ;  but  a  quantity  of  7lbs.  from  non- European  ports  or 
3lbs.  from  European  ports  outside  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar  are  passed 
without  fine.  Chocolate  and  sweetmeats  of  all  kinds  also  are  duti- 
able. Foreign  reprints  of  copyright  English  books  are  confiscated. 
The  custom  house  examination  is  generally  lenient.  —  Dogs  arc  at 
present  allowed  to  land  in  Great  Britain  only  on  condition  that 
they  shall  be  detained  and  isolated  under  the  care  of  a  veterinary 
surgeon  for  six  months. 

Time.  Uniformity  of  time  throughout  Great  Britain  is  maintained 
by  telegraphic  communication  with  Greenwich  Observatory  (p.  394). 

II.  Routes  to  and  from  London. 

Boutes  to  Exigland  from  the  United  States  and  Canada. 

The  data  in  the  following  lists  refer  to  the  summer-services  of 
the  various  steamship  companies,  but  the  times  and  fares  are  liable 
to  alteration.  On  the  more  popular  routes  and  at  the  most  frequented 
seasons  it  is  desirable  to  secure  berths  and  staterooms  in  advance. 
Fares  are  reduced  during  the  winter  season  (Nov.  1st  to  March  31st), 
and  children  between  1  and  10  years  of  age  are  generally  charged 
half-fare  (between  1  and  12  in  the  second  cabin). 

Of  recent  years  there  has  been  a  rapid  increase  in  the  size  of 
transatlantic  passenger  steamers;  and  while  the  vessels  of  any  of 
the  undermentioned  companies  afford  comfortable  accommodation, 
some  of  the  newest  and  largest  steamers  are  fitted  up  with  palatial 
magnificence,  with  lifts  between  the  various  decks,  restaurants  a 
la  carte,  wireless-telegraph  installations  (p.  42),  etc.  It  is  worth 
noting  that  the  largest  and  swiftest  steamers  are  said  not  always  to 
be  the  most  comfortable  for  indifferent  sailors. 


II.   ATLANTIC  PASSAGE.  xlii 

Cttnard  Une.  A  steamer  of  this  company  starts  erery  Sat.  and  every 
alternate  Tues.  from  New  York  and  every  alternate  Tues.  from  Boston 
for  Queenstown  and  Liverpool.  Cabin  fare  75-176  dollars;  second  cabin 
42V2-57  dollars.  Steamers  from  Liverpool  for  New  York  every  Sat.,  for 
Bjston  every  alternate  Tuesday.  Fare  12-601. ;  second  cabin  9/.-15^  London 
offices,  99  Bishopsgate  Street  and  29  Gockspur  Street,  Charing  Cross.  Chief 
steamers :  'Mauretania'  (31,900  tons),  'Lusitania'  (30,800  tons),  the  largest 
and  finest  steamers  on.  the  Atlantic;  *Caronia\  *Saxonia\  etc. 

The  five  lines  immediately  following  all  belong  to  the  IntemaHtmal 
Mercantile  Marine  Co.  (the  ^American  Combine*),  with  combined  offices  at 
1  Cockspur  St.,  S.W.,  and  88  Leadenhall  St.,  E.C. 

White  Star  Line.  Every  Thurs.  in  summer  (fortnightly  Jan.'March) 
from  New  York  to  Qneenstown  and  Liverpool  and  vice  versd.  Cabin  from 
821/3  dollars ;  second  cabin  from  45  dollars.  —  Steamers:  ^Baltic'  (21,000 tons), 
'Cedric',  'Celtic'  (each  21,000  tons).  —  From  New  York  to  Southampton 
and  vice  versd,  every  Wed.,  via  Plymouth  and  Cherbourg  on  the  E.  voyage, 
via,  Cherbourg  on  the  W.  voyage.  Cabin  from  92V2  dollars,  second  cabin 
from  42»/2  dollars.  ^Adriatic'  (25,000  tons),  'Oceanic',  'M^estic',  'Teutonic'.  — 
From  Boston  to  Liverpool,  and  vice  versd^  once  or  twice  a  month.  Cabin  from 
72V2  dollars,  second  cabin  from  40  dollars.    'Republic'  (15,400 tons),  ^Cymric'. 

American  Line.  Every  Sat.  from  New  York  to  Southampton  and  vice 
verid^  calling  at  Plymouth  (eastbound  only)  and  Cherbourg  (in  both  direc- 
tions). Cabin  from  92V2  dollars;  second  cabin  from  47  dollars.  *St.  Louis', 
'St.  Paul',  'Philadelphia',  and  *New  York'.  —  From  Philadelphia  to  Liver- 
pool every  Sat.,  returning  every  Wed.  (no  first  cabin;  second  cabin  from 
8/.  10*.  or  42  dollars).    'Haverford',  *Merion',  *Noordland'. 

Dominion  Line.  From  Quebec  and  Uontreal  in  summer,  and  from 
Portland  (calling  at  Halifax  westbound)  in  winter,  to  Liverpool,  and  vice 
versd^  weekly.  Saloon  from  13/.  or  66  dollars;  second  cabin  from  St.  iOs, 
or  42V,dollar3.  'Albany',  'Alberta'  (both  building;  14,000  tons),  'Canada', 
'Kensington'. 

Lepland  Line.  From  Boston  to  Liverpool  and  vice  versd  every  Sat.  (from 
Boston  in  winter  on  Wed.).  Saloon  passengers  only;  fare  from  132.  10*. 
or  67V«  dollars.  'Devonian'  (10,400  tons),  'Winifredian'  (10,400  tons),  'Cana- 
dian', 'Bohemian'. 

Atlantic  Transport  Line.  From  New  York  to  London  and  vice  versd 
every  Sat.  (from  London  in  winter  on  Thurs.).  Saloon  passengers  only; 
fares  from  13/.  12<.  Sd.  or  68  dollars.  'Minnehaha',  'Minneapolis',  *Minne- 
tonka'  (each  13,400  tons). 

North  German  Lloyd  Lint.  From  New  York  to  Plymouth  every  Tues. 
and  Thursday.  From  Southampton  to  New  York  ever]  Wed.  and  Sunday. 
Fares  (New  York  to  London  from  96  dollars,  second  cabin  from  54V4  dol- 
lars) vary  greatly  according  to  season,  steamer,  and  position  of  stateroom. 
London  offices,  2  King  William  Street^  E.G.,  and  32  Cockspur  Street,  W.C. 
At  Southampton  passengers  are  conveyed  to  the  liners  in  steam- tenders. 
'iCronprinzessin  Cecilie'  (20,000  tons),  'Kaiser  Wilhelm  II.'  (19,300  tons), 
'KronprinzWilhelm'  (16,000 tons),  'OeorgeWashington'(27,000tons  ;building). 

BanAurg' American  Line.  From  New  York  to  Plymouth  every  Sat.  in 
summer  (less  often  in  winter).  Saloon  from  80  dollars;  second  cabin  from 
56  dollars.  From  Southampton  to  New  York  every  Frid.  in  summer  (less 
often  in  winter),  and  from  Plymouth  to  New  York  every  Mon.  in  summer 
(less  often  in  winter).  Saloon  from  18/. ;  second  cabin  from  10/.  1*.  London 
offices,  14  Cockspur  Street,  S. W.,  81  Strand,  W.C,  and  78  Gracechurch  Street, 
E.C.  —  'K  dserin  Augusta  Viktorla'  (26,500  tons),  'Amerika'  (22,200  tons). 

Anchor  Line.  Steamers  between  New  York  and  Glasgow  every  Sat.; 
fares  from  10/.  London  Office,  4  St.  Mary  Axe,  E.C.  'Caledonia'  (9200  tons), 
'California',  'Columbia'. 

Canadian  Pacife  Railwatf  CC.  P.  R.^).  Steamers  belonging  to  this  com- 
pany ply  from  Montreal  every  Thurs.  in  summer,  from  St.  John  every  Sat. 
in  winter,  for  Liverpool,  returning  every  Frid.  or  Tuesday.  Saloon-fare 
from  46,  second  cabin  from  37  dollars.  Offices,  62  Charing  Cross,  S.W., 
and  67  King  William  St.,  EC.  'Empress  of  Britain',  'Empress  of  Ireland' 
(each  14,500  tons),  'Lake  Manitoba'. 


xiv  II.    ATLANTIC  PASSAGE. 

Allan  Line.  From  Qael)ee  and  Montreal  in  inmmer,  and  from  St.  John 
and  Halifax  in  winter,  to  Liverpool  and  vice  vendy  almost  weekly.  Cabin 
from  50,  second  cabin  from  37Vs  dollars.  Steamers  also  to  Glasgow  from 
Boston,  from  Montreal  and  Quebec  (from  Portland  in  winter),  and  from 
St.  John's  (Newfoundland)  or  Philadelphia.  London  Offices,  6V3  Pall  Mall, 
S.W.  and  103  Leadenhall  St.,  B.C.  —  'Victorian',  *  Virginian'  (12,000  tons 
each),  'Corsican'  (11,500  tons). 

The  average  duration  of  the  passage  across  the  Atlantic  is  5-9  days. 
The  best  time  for  crossing  is  in  summer.  Passengers  should  pack  cloth- 
ing and  other  necessi^es  for  the  voyage  in  small  flat  boxes  (not  portmanteaus), 
such  as  can  lie  easily  in  the  cabin ,  as  all  bulky  luggage  is  sfowed  away 
in  the  hold.  Stateroom  trunks  should  not  exceed  8  ft.  in  length,  IV2-2  ft. 
in  breadth,  and  15  inches  in  height.  Trunks  not  required  on  board 
should  be  marked  *Hold'  or  *Not  Wanted',  the  others  'Cabin'  or  'Wanted'. 
The  steamship  companies  provide  labels  for  this  purpose.  Dress  for  the 
voyage  should  be  of  a  plain  and  serviceable  description,  and  it  is  ad- 
visable, even  in  midsummer,  to  be  provided  with  warm  clothing.  Ladies 
should  not  forget  a  thick  veil.  A  deck-chair,  which  may  be  purchased 
(from  Q-ls.  upwards)  or  hired  (3-4i.)  at  the  dock  or  on  the  steamer  before 
sailing,  is  a  luxury  that  may  almost  be  called  a  necessary.  Bought  chairs 
should  be  distinctly  marked  with  the  owner's  name  or  initials,  and  may  be 
left  in  charge  of  the  Steamship  Co.'s  agents  until  the  return-journey.  Seats 
at  table,  retained  throughout  the  voyage,  are  usually  assigned  by  Ihe  Saloon 
Steward  immediately  after  starting ;  and  those  who  wish  to  sit  at  a  particular 
table  or  beside  a  particular  person  should  apply  to  him.  It  is  usuaJ  to  give  a 
fee  of  10«.  (2Vs  dollars)  to  the  table-steward  and  to  the  stateroom  steward,  and 
small  gratuities  are  also  expected  by  the  boot-cleaner,  the  bath-steward,  etc. 
The  stateroom  steward  should  not  be  'tipped'  until  he  has  brought  all 
the  passenger's  small  baggage  safely  on  to  the  landing-stage  or  tender. 

On  arriving,  paasengers  usually  remain  on  board  the  steamer  until  all 
the  baggage  has  been  placed  in  the  custom-house  shed.  Here  the  owner 
will  find  his  property  expeditiously  by  looking  for  the  initial  of  his  surname 
on  the  wall.  The  examination  is  generally  soon  over  (comp.  p.  xii).  Porters 
then  convey  the  luggage  to  a  cab  (3d.  for  small  articles,  6d.  for  a  large 
trunk).  —  Baggage  may  now  be  'expressed'  from  New  York  to  any 
city  in  Europe  (among  the  chief  express  companies),  all  in  Broadway,  are : 
Adams  Expraa  Co.^  No.  59;  American  Express  Co.,  No.  66;  United  States 
Express  Co.,  No.  49;  Wells  Fargo  «fr  Co.,  No.  51;  comp.  also  p.  43).  Agents 
of  the  English  railway  -  companies,  etc.,  meet  the  steamers  on  arrival  in 
England  and  undertake  to  'express'  baggage  on  the  American  system  to 
any  address  given  by  the  traveller. 

Fbom  Livbbpool  to  London  there  are  five  diflFerent  railway 
routes  (1921/2-240 M.,  in  4-8  hrs. ;  fares  by  all  trains  29«.,  20a.  8d., 
16s.  6d.;  no  second  class  by  Midland  or  Qreat  Northern  Railways). 

The  Midland  Railway  (to  St.  Pancras  Station)  runs  by  Matlock,  Derby, 
and  Bedford.  The  route  of  the  London  and  Iforth  Western  Railway  (to 
Euston  Station)  goes  vi&  Crewe  and  Bugby.  A  special  service,  for  Atlantic 
passengers  by  the  large  liners,  runs  from  the  Biverside  Station  on  the 
landing-stage  to  Euston  Station  in  S^/i  hrs.  The  Great  Central  Railway  (to 
Marylebone  Station)  runs  via  Sheffield,  Nottingham,  Leicester,  and  Rugby. 
By  tne  Qreat  Western  Railway  (to  Paddington  Station)  we  may  travel  either 
vi&  Chester,  Birmingham,  Warwick,  and  Oxford;  or  via  Hereford  and 
Gloucester ;  or  via  Worcester.  Or,  lastly,  we  may  take  a  train  of  the  Qreat 
Northern  Railway  (to  King's  Cross  Station),  passing  Grantham  and  Peter- 
borough. —  The  following  are  comfortable  hotels  at  Liverpool:  North 
Western  Hotel,  Lime  Street  Station;  Adelphi,  near  Central  Station;  Lanca- 
shire A  Yorkshire,  at  the  Exchange  Station;  8t,  Qeorge,  51  Dale  Street; 
BhafteAury  Temperance  ffotel^  Mount  Pleasant. 

Fbom  Southampton  to  London,  by  South  Western  Railway  to 
Waterloo  Station  (79  M.,  in  13/4-3  V2  ^m.  ;  fares  13a.,  8«.  2<i.,  6». 


II.   ROUTES  TO  THE  CONTINENT.  xt 

6d.}.  Hotels  at  Southampton:  South  Western;  Sa^eifs;  Boyal; 
Dolphin;  Polygon  Houte;  Floweret  Temperance. 

Fbom  Plymouth  to  London,  by  Qreai  Wettem  Railway  to  Pad- 
dington  Station,  oi  by  South  Western  Railway  to  Waterloo  Station 
(227  or  231  M.,  in  41/4-71/4  ^n. ;  fares  37«.  4d.,  23«.  4d.,  iSs.  8d.). 
Hotels  at  Plymonth:  Orand;  Duke  of  Cornwall ;  Royal;  Chubb'»; 
Albion;  Westminster  Temperance, 

For  details  of  these  routes,  see  Baedeker^ s  Great  Britain, 

Boutai  from  London  to  the  Continent. 

The  foUoirlng  summary  of  the  direct  oonnectlons  between  Lon- 
don and  the  Continent  will  be  of  use  to  travellers  in  either  direc- 
tion. In  many  cases  the  direct  steamer  -  route  (e.g.  to  Boulogne, 
St.  Petersburg,  etc.)  is  by  no  means  the  quickest,  though  it  may 
offer  an  agreeable  alternative  to  the  unhurried  traveller. 

To  Anulerdam,  Holland  Steamship  Co.  twice  weekly  from  off  the  Tower 
in  about  30hrs.;  fares  15«.,  10«.,  7«.  6(2. 

To  Antwerp.  Vlft  Harwicb  daily,  except  Sun.,  in  13  hrs.  (sea-pasaage 
10V«hrs.){  fares  26«.,  Ifif. 

To  Bordeaux,  Oeneral  Steam  Navigation  Go.  weekly  from  Irongate 
and  St.  Eatbarine^fl  Wharf  in  ca.  60  hrd.i  fares  3<.  lOi.,  22.  7«.,  incl.  meals. 

To  Boulogne,  a.  Yii  B'olkestone  twice  daily  in  3Vs-5  hrs. ;  fares  37«. 
7d.^  ids.  3d.,  13t.  8d.  —  b.  Bennett  Steamship  Line  thrice  weekly  from 
Chamberlain  Wharf,  Tooley  St.,  B.C.,  in  9  hrs. ;  fare  lOt. 

To  Bremen,  Argo  Go's  steamer  thrice  weekly  from  St.  Katharine  Docks 
in  about  36 hrs.;  fares  S&t.,  28«. 

To  ChtUtiania,  Wilson  line  steamer  fortnightly  in  about  60  hrs.  \  taruB 
il,  lbs.,  31.  &!.,  incl.  meals. 

To  Copenhagen,  a.  Vii  Harwich  and  Esbjerg,  thrice  weekly  in  ca.  36  hrs.  3 
fares  2l.  iSs,  lid.,  21.  lOi.  id,  —  b.  Steamer  of  the  Wilson  or  United 
Steamship  Co.,  occasionally  in  about  36  hrs. ;  fares  31. 18«.  lid.,  21. 10«.  id. 

To  Pushing  yi&  Queenborough  (IV4  hr.  from  London)  twice  daily  in 
63/4-71/8  hrs.  To  Amsterdam  by  this  route,  ISVs  hrs.  (faies  37«.  Id.,  25$.  hd.), 
to  Berlin,  23  hrs.  (4/.  13«.  2d.,  Sf.  3«.  3d.). 

To  Gothenbuvffs  Thule  Line  weekly  from  Hillwall  Docks  in  iO-45  hrs.  \ 
fares  41.,  2l.  i6«. 

To  Hamburg,  a.  "Vii  Harwich  twice  weekly  in  31 V2  hrs. 5  fares  IZ.  17*.  6d.  •, 
II.  be.  9d.  —  b.  Kirsten  Line  steamer  four  times  weekly  in  about  44  hrs. 

To  Hoek  van  Holland  via  Harwich  daily  in  7-7V«hr8.;  fares  29«.,  18«. 
(second-class  passengers  admitted  to  the  first  cabin  for  7«.  extra).  To 
Amsterdam  by  this  route  11  hrs.  (fares  37«.  Id.,  25#.  6d.) ;  to  Berlin  22V«  i>rs. 
(41.  3«.  4d.,  2/.  ib»,  5d.). 

To  Oetend.  a.  Via  Dover  thrice  daily  in  5  hrs.  (SVs  hrs.  sea-passage) ; 
fares  27«.  lid.,  19«.  lOd.  To  Brussels  by  this  route  S-S'/s  hrs.  (fares  38«.  lOd., 
2Se.  id.,  19*,  3d.),  to  Berlin,  31Vs  (^ord  Ezpre8s)-24V3  hrs.  (fares,  Nord 
Express  tl.  8#.  td.,  ordinary  train  W.  3«.  7d.,  31.  St.  id.).  —  b.  General 
Steam  Navigation  Go^s  steamer  (see  above)  twice  weekly  in  ca.  10  hrs. ; 
fares  7*,  6d.,  6«. 

To  Parte,  a.  Vi&  Dover  and  Calais,  thrice  daily  in  7^/4-9  hrs.  (sea- 
•assage  1V4-1V8  hr.);  fares  21.  16«.  «d.,  U.  19*.  8d.,  U.  6*.  9d.  —  b.  Via 
i'olkestone  and  Boulogne,  twice  daily  in  7-7V«  hrs.  (sea-passage  IVrl*/*  hr.)  ^ 
fares  2t,  10*.,  il.  14*.  Sd.*  1/.  3*.  9d.  —  c.  Via  Newhaven  and  Dieppe,  twice 
daily  in  IOV4-IIVS  hrs.  (sea-passage  4-5  hrs.);  fares  38*.  7d.,  S8*.,  18*.  7d. 
—  d.  Via  Southampton  and  Havre  once  daily  in  18Vs  hrs.  (sea-passage  ca. 
8  hrs.) ;  fares  S3*.  lOd.,  24*.  lOd. 

To  Rotterdam,  a.  Vi&  Harwich  and  Hoek  ran  Holland,  daily  in  9V2  hrs.; 
fares  31*.  6d^  20*.  Id.  —  b.  Steamer  of  the  Batavicr  Line  daily,  except 
Sun.,  from  Tilbury  in  ca.  337%  hrs.  \  fares  21*.,  13*. 


xvi  III.    RAILWAYS. 

To  St.  PeUribwrg.  Steamer  of  the  Lassmann  Line  weekly  from  Mill- 
wall  Dock  via  the  Kiel  Canal  in  4V2  days;  fares  6/.  6«.,  il.  15<.,  incl.  meals. 

Steamers  alao  sail  regularly  from  London  to  Spain,  Portugal^  Egypt^ 
etc.    See  the  advertisements  in  Bradahaw^t  Railmay  Ouide  (monthly;  Gd.). 

On  the  longer  voyages  (lOhrs.  and  upwards),  or  when  special  attention 
has  been  required,  the  steward  expects  a  gratuity  of  U.  or  more.  Food 
and  liquors  are  supplied  on  board  all  the  steamboats  at  fixed  charges,  but 
the  viands  are  sometimes  not  very  inviting.  An  official  Interpreter  accom- 
panies the  chief  trains  on  the  more  important  routes. 

III.  Eailways. 

Travellers  accustomed  to  the  formalities  of  Continental  railway^ 
officials  may  perhaps  consider  that  in  England  they  are  too  much 
left  to  themselves.  Tickets  are  not  invariably  checked  at  the  be- 
ginning of  a  journey,  and  travellers  should  therefore  make  sure  that 
they  are  in  the  proper  compartment.  The  names  of  the  stations  are 
not  always  so  conspicuous  as  they  should  be  (especially  at  night); 
and  the  way  in  which  the  porters  call  them  out,  laying  all  the  stress 
on  the  last  syllable,  is  seldom  of  much  assistance.  The  officials, 
however,  are  generally  civil  in  answering  questions  and  giving  in- 
formation. In  winter  foot-warmers  with  hot  water  are  usually  pro- 
vided. It  is  ^good  form'  for  a  passenger  quitting  a  railway  carriage 
where  there  are  other  travellers  to  close  the  door  behind  him,  and 
to  pull  up  the  window  if  he  has  had  to  let  it  down. 

On  all  the  English  lines  the  first-class  passenger  is  entitled  to 
carry  at  least  112f6.  of  luggage  free,  second-class  80^6.,  and  third- 
class  QOlb.  (on  some  lines  the  allowance  is  considerably  more).  The 
companies,  however,  do  not  always  charge  for  overweight  unless 
the  excess  is  exorbitant.  For  bicycles,  etc.,  special  tickets  must  be 
obtained.  On  all  inland  routes  the  traveller  should  see  that  his 
luggage  is  duly  labelled  for  his  destination,  and  put  into  the  right 
van,  as  otherwise  the  railways  are  not  responsible  for  its  transport. 
Travellers  to  the  Continent  require  to  book  their  luggage  and  obtain 
a  ticket  for  it,  after  which  it  gives  them  no  farther  trouble.  Trans- 
atlantic luggage,  see  p.  xiv.  -  Luggage  may  be  left  at  or  sent  to  the 
CloaJc  Room  or  Left  Luggage  Office  at  any  station  (trunk,  2d.  per 
day).  The  railway- porters  are  nominally  forbidden  to  accept  gratu- 
ities, but  it  is  customary  to  give  2d.-6d.  to  the  porter  who  transfers 
the  luggage  from  the  cab  to  the  train  or  vice  versa. 

Smoking  is  forbidden,  under  a  penalty  of  40s.,  in  all  the  car- 
riages except  in  the  compartments  marked  *smoking'. 

Bradshaw's  Railway  Guide  (monthly;  6d.)  is  the  most  complete. 
The  convenient  ABC  Railway  Guide  gives  the  stations  in  alpha- 
betical order,  with  their  connections  to  and  from  London.  Each  of 
the  great  railway-companies  publishes  a  monthly  guide  to  its  own 
system  (price  l-2d.). 


x?ii 


IV.  Outline  of  English  History. 

The  following  brief  table  of  the  chief  events  in  English  history, 
and  the  sacceediug  section  on  the  rise  and  progress  of  London,  are 
intended  as  convenient  reminders  of  the  historic  associations  in 
which  the  metropolis  of  Great  Britain  is  so  rich. 


B.a  55449  ^^^^  p^^^^ 

B.C.  55-54.       Of  Britain  before  its  first  invasion  by  Julias  CsBsar  in 
B.C.  55  there  is  no  authentic  history.    Gsesar  repeats  his 
invasion  in  B.C.  54,  but  makes  no  permanent  settlement. 
43  A. D.       Emp.  Claudius  undertakes  the  subjugation  of  Britain. 
78-85.       Britain,  with  part  of  Caledonia,  is  overrun  by  the  Roman 
general  Agricola,  and  reduced  to  the  form  of  a  province. 
412.       Roman  legions  recalled  from  Britain  by  Honorius. 
449.       The  Britons,   deprived  of  their  Roman  protectors,   are 
unable  to  resist  the  attacks  of  the  Picts,  and  summon  the 
Saxons  J  under  Hengiat  and  Horsa,  to  their  aid. 

449-1066.  Anolo-Saxon  Pbbiod. 

449-585.  The  Saxons,  re-inforced  by  the  Angles^  Juits,  and  other 
Germanic  tribes,  gradually  overcome  Britain  on  their  own  ac- 
count, until  the  whole  country,  with  trifling  exceptions,  is 
divided  into  the  seven  kingdoms  of  the  Saxon  Heptarchy 
(585).  To  this  period  belong  the  semi-mythical  exploits  of 
King  Arthur  and  his  knights. 

Christianity  re-introduced  by  8t.  Auguitint  (597).    The 
Vtntrdblt  Btde  (d.  735).    Caedrmn  (abou^i^SO). 
827.       Egbert  unites  all  England  in  one  kingdom. 
836-871.        Contests  with  the  Danes  and  Normans^   who  repeatedly 

invade  England. 
S71-901.       Alfred  the  Great  defeats  the  Danes,  and  compels  them 
to  make  peace.    Creates  navy,  establishes  militia,  revises 
laws,  reorganizes  institutions,  founds  schools  at  Oxford,  is  a 
patron  of  learning,  and  himself  an  author. 
979-1016.       Ethelred  the  Unready  draws  down   upon  England  the 
vengeance  of  the  Danes  by  a  massacre  of  those  who  had 
settled  in  England. 
1013.       The  Danish  king  Sweyn  conquers  England. 
1017-1035.        Canute  the  Great,  the  son  of  Sweyn,  reigns  over  England. 
1035-1040.       Harold  Harefoot,  illegitimate  son  of  Canute ,  usurps  the 

throne . 
1040-1042.       Hardieanute,  son  of  Canute.  —  The  Saxon  line  is  restored 
in  the  person  of  — 
Baedekbb^s  London.    15th  Edit.  b 


xviii 


IV.    OUTLINE  OF  ENGLISH  HISTORY. 


1043-1066. 
1066. 

1066-1154. 
1066-1087. 

1087-1100. 
1100-1136. 


1135-1154. 
1138. 


1154-1399. 
1154-1189. 


1170. 
1172. 


1189-1199. 


1199-1216, 


1216-1272. 


1272-1307. 


Edward  the  Confessor,  vho  makes  London  the  capital  of 
England,  and  builds  Westminster  Abbey  (see  p.  226).  His 
brother-in-law  and  saccessor  — 

Harold  loses  his  kingdom  and  his  life  at  the  Battle  of 
Hastings ,  where  he  opposed  the  invasion  of  the  Normans, 
under  William  the  Conqueror. 

NoBMAN  Dynasty. 

William  the  Conqueror,  of  Normandy,  establishes  him- 
self as  King  of  the  English.  Introduction  of  Norman  (French) 
language  and  customs. 

William  II.,  surnamed  Rufus ,  after  a  tyrannical  reign, 
is  accidentally  shot  by  Sir  Walter  Tyrrell  while  hunting. 

Henry  I.,  BeaucUrc,  defeats  his  elder  brother  Robert, 
Duke  of  Normandy,  at  the  battle  of  Tenchebrai  (1106),  and 
adds  Normandy  to  the  possessions  of  the  English  crown. 
He  leaves  his  kingdom  to  his  daughter  Matilda,  who, 
however,  is  unable  to  wrest  it  from  — 

Stephen,  ofBlois,  grandson  of  the  Conqueror.  David,  King 
of  the  Scots  and  uncle  of  Matilda,  is  defeated  and  captured 
at  the  Battle  of  the  Standard.  Stephen  appoints  as  his  suc- 
cessor Matilda's  son,  Henry  of  Anjou  or  Plantagenet  (from 
the  planta  genista  or  broom,  the  badge  of  this  family). 

House  of  Plantagenet. 

Henry  n.  Strife  with  Thomas  Becket^  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury,  over  the  respective  spheres  of  the  civil  and 
ecclesiastical  powers.  The  Archbishop  excommunicates  the 
King's  followers,  and  is  murdered  by  four  knights  at  Can- 
terbury. The  E.  part  of  Ireland  is  conquered  by  Strongbow 
and  De  C<flircy.  Robin  Hood,  the  forest  outlaw,  flourishes. 

Bichard  I.,  Coeur  de  Lion,  takes  a  prominent  part  in  the 
Third  Crusade ,  but  is  captured  on  his  way  home,  and  im- 
prisoned in  Qermany  for  upwards  of  a  year.  He  carries  on 
war  with  Philip  II.  of  France. 

John ,  surnamed  Lackland ,  is  defeated  at  Bouvines  by 
Philip  II.  of  France,  and  loses  Normandy.  Magna  Charta, 
the  groundwork  of  the  English  constitution,  is  extorted 
from  him  by  his  Barons. 

Henry  in. ,  by  his  misrule ,  becomes  involved  in  a  war 
with  his  Barons,  headed  by  Simon  de  Montfort,  and  is  de- 
feated at  Lewes.  His  son  Edward  gains  the  battle  of 
Evesham,  where  De  Montfort  is  slain.  Hubert  de  Burgh  de- 
feats the  French  at  sea.    Roger  Bacon,  the  philosopher. 

Edward  I. ,  Longshanks ,  vanquishes  the  Welsh  under 
Llewelyn,  and  completes  the  conquest  of  Wales.  The  heir  ap- 
parent to  the  English  throne  thenoeforwaTd  bears  the  title  o( 


IV.    OUTLINE  OF  ENGLISH  HISTORY. 


xix 


1306. 


1307-1327. 
1314. 


1327-1377. 


Prince  of  Wales,  Robert  Bruce  and  Johr^  Baliol  struggle  for 
the  orown  of  Scotland.  Edward  espouses  the  cause  of  the  lat- 
ter (who  swears  fealty  to  England),  and  oyerruns  Scotland. 
The  Scots,  led  by  Sir  William  Wallace^  offer  a  determined 
resistance.  Wallace  executed  at  London.  The  Scots  defeated 
at  Falkirk  (1297)  and  Methven  (1306) ,  and  the  country 
subdued.  Establishment  of  the  English  Parliament  in  its 
modern  form. 

Edward  II.  is  signally  defeated  at  Barvnoekhum  by 
the  Scots  under  Robert  Bruce  the  third ,  and  is  forced  to 
retire  to  England.  The  Qneen  and  her  paramour  Morti- 
mer join  with  the  Barons  in  taking  up  arms  against  the 
King,  who  is  deposed,  and  shortly  afterwards  murdered  in 
prison. 

Edward  m.  defeats  the  Scots  at  Halidon  Hill  and 
Neville's  Cross,  Lays  claim  to  the  throne  of  France,  and 
invades  that  country,  thus  beginning  the  hundred  years' 
war  between  France  and  England.  Victories  of  Sluys 
(naval),  CrScy  (1346),  and  Poitiers  (1356).  John  the  Good 
1364.  of  France,  taken  prisoner  by  the  Black  Prince,  dies  in 
captivity.  After  the  death  of  the  Black  Prince  England 
loses  all  her  French  possessions,  except  Calais  and  Gascony. 
Order  of  the  Garter  founded.  Movement  against  the  preten- 
sions and  corruption  of  the  clergy,  headed  by  the  early 
reformer  John  Wy cliff e.  House  of  Commons  holds  its  meet- 
ings apart  from  the  House  of  Lords. 
1377-1399.  Bichardn.  Rebellion  of  Wat  Tyler,  occasioned  by  in- 
crease of  taxation  (see  p.  100).  Victory  of  the  Scots  at 
Otterburn  or  Chevy  Chase.  Henry  of  Bolingbroke,  Duke  of 
Lancaster,  leads  an  army  against  the  King,  takes  him  captive, 
and  according  to  popular  tradition  starves  him  to  death  in 
Pontefract  Castle.  Geoffrey  Chaucer ,  the  father  of  English 
poetry,  flourishes. 

1399-1461.    .  House  of  Lanoastbb. 

1399-1413.  Henry  IV. ,  Bolingbroke ,  now  secures  his  election  to  the 
crown,  in  right  of  his  descent  from  Henry  HI.  Outbreak  of 
the  nobility,  under  the  Earl  of  Northumberland  and  his  son 
1403.  Henry  (Percy  Hotspur),  is  quelled  by  the  victory  of  Shrews- 
bury, at  which  the  latter  is  slain. 

1413-1422.  Henry  V.  renews  the  claims  of  England  to  the  French 
crown,  wins  the  battle  of  Agincourt,  and  subdues  the  N. 
of  France.  Persecution  ot  the  Lollards,  or  followers  of  Wyc- 
liffe. 

1422-1461.       Henry  VI.  is  proclaimed  King  of  France  at  Paris.    The 

I  Maid  of  Orleans  defeats  the  English  and  recovers  French 
possessions.   Outbreak  of  the  civil  contest  called  the  *  Wars 

b* 


IV.   OUTLINE  OF  ENGLISH  HISTORY. 


1461-1485. 
1461-1483 


1471. 
1483. 


1483-1485. 


1485-1603. 
1485-1509. 


1509-1547. 


1547-1553. 
1553-1558. 


1558-1603. 


1587. 
1588, 


of  the  Boaes\  between  the  houses  of  Laneaster  (red  rose) 
and  York  (white  lose).  Henry  becomes  insane.  Richard,  Duke 
of  York  t  great-^andson  of  Edward  III. ,  lays  claim  to  the 
throne,  Joins  himself  with  Warwiekj  the  *King-Maker\  and 
wins  the  battle  of  Northampton,  but  is  defeated  and  slain  at 
Wakefield,  His  son  Edward,  howeyer,  is  appointed  King. 
Rebellion  of  Jack  Cade. 

Ho  USB  OF  York. 

Edward  IV.  wins  the  battles  of  Towton,  Hedgley  Moor, 
and  Hexham.  Warwick  takes  the  part  of  Margaret  of 
Anjou,  wife  of  Henry  YI.,  and  forces  Edward  to  flee  to 
Holland,  whence,  however,  he  soon  returns  and  wins  the 
victories  of  Barnet  and  Tewkesbury.  Henry  YI.  dies  sud- 
denly in  the  Tower.  Edward's  brother,  the  Duke  of  Clarence, 
is  said  to  have  been  drowned  in  a  butt  of  malmsey  (p.  137). 

Edward  V. ,  the  youthful  son  of  Edward  lY. ,  is  declared 
illegitimate,  and  murdered  in  the  Tower,  along  with  his 
brother  (p.  137),  by  his  uncle,  the  Duke  of  Olouceater,  who 
takes  possession  of  the  throne  as  — 

Richard  m. ,  but  is  defeated  and  slain  at  Bosworth  by 
Henry  Tudor,  Earl  of  Richmond,  a  scion  of  the  House  of 
Lancaster. 

HOUSB  OP  TiJDOB. 

Henry  VII.  marries  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Edward  lY., 
and  so  puts  an  end  to  the  Wars  of  the  Roses.  The  pretenders 
Lambert  Simnel  and  Perkin  Warbeck. 

Henry  Yin.,  married  six  times  (to  Catherine  of  Aragon, 
Anne  Boleyn,  Jane  Seymour,  Anne  of  Clevea,  Catherine 
Howard,  and  Catherine  Parr).  Battles  of  the  Spurs  and 
Flodden.  Separation  of  the  Church  of  England  from  that  of 
Rome.  Dissolution  of  monasteries  and  persecution  of  the 
Papists.  Cardinal  Wolsey  and  Thomas  CromweU,  all-powerful 
ministers.   Whitehall  and  St.  James's  Palace  built. 

Edward  VI.  encourages  the  Reformed  faith. 

Mary  I.  causes  Lady  Jane  Orey ,  whom  Edward  had  ap- 
pointed his  successor ,  to  be  executed,  and  imprisons  her 
own  sister  Elizabeth  (pp.  137,213).  }lsLttiQB  Philip  of  Spain, 
and  restores  Roman  Catholicism.  Persecution  of  the  Pro* 
testants.    Calais  taken  by  the  French. 

Elisabeth.  The  Reformed  faith  re-established.  Flourishing 
state  of  commerce.  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  executed  after  a 
long  confinement  in  England.  Destruction  of  the  Spanish 
*Invincible  Armada'.  Sir  Francis  Drake,  the  celebrated 
circumnavigator.  Foundation  of  the  East  India  Company. 
Golden  age  of  English  literature:  Shakspeare,  Bacon, 
Spenser,  Jonson,  Beaumont,  Fletcher,  Marlowe,  Drayton. 


IV.    OUTLINE  OF  ENGLISH  HISTORY. 


xxi 


1603-1714. 
1608-1626. 


1626-1649. 


1649-1663. 
1653-1660. 

1668. 
1660-1686. 


1685-1688. 


1688-1702. 


1702-1714 


HousB  07  Sttabt. 

James  I.,  King  of  Soots,  and  son  of  Mary  Stuart,  unites 
by  his  accession  the  two  kingdoms  of  England  and  Scot- 
land. Persecution  of  Puritans  and  Roman  Catholics.  In- 
fluence of  Buckingham.  Gunpowder  Plot.  Execution  of  Sir 
Walter  Raleigh. 

Charles  I.  Imitates  his  father  in  the  arbitrary  nature  of 
his  rule,  quarrels  with  Parliament  on  questions  of  taxation, 
dissolves  it  repeatedly,  and  tyrannically  attempts  to  arrest 
five  leading  members  of  the  House  of  Commons  (J7ampd«n, 
Pym,  etc.).  Rise  of  the  Covenanters  in  Scotland.  Long  Par- 
liament. Outbreak  of  cItII  war  between  the  King  and  his  ad- 
herents (Cavaliers)  on  the  one  side,  and  the  Parliament  and 
its  friends  (Roundheads)  on  the  other.  The  King  defeated  by 
Oliver  Cromwell  at  Marsion  Moor  and  Nasehy.  He  takes  re- 
fuge in  the  Scottish  camp,  but  is  glren  up  to  the  Parliament- 
ary leaders,  tried,  and  executed  at  Whitehall  (p.  213). 

Commonwealth.  The  Scots  rise  in  favour  of  Charles  II., 
but  are  defeated  at  Dunbar  and  Worcester  by  Cromwell. 

Protectorate.  Oliver  Cromwell  now  becomes  Lord  Pro- 
tector of  England,  and  by  his  vigorous  and  wise  government 
makes  England  prosperous  at  home  and  respected  abroad. 
John  Milton,  the  poet,  Thomas  Hohbes,  the  philosopher,  and 
George  Fox,  the  founder  of  the  Quakers,  live  at  this  period. 
On  Cromwell's  death  he  is  succeeded  by  his  son  Biohard, 
who,  however,  soon  resigns,  whereupon  Charles  II.  is  re- 
stored by  General  Monk  or  Monck. 

Charles  II.  General  amnesty  proclaimed,  a  few  of  the 
regicides  only  being  excepted.  Arbitrary  government.  The 
Cabal.  Wars  with  Holland.  Persecution  of  the  Papists 
after  the  pretended  discovery  of  a  Popish  Plot.  Passing  of 
the  Habeas  Corpus  Act.  Wars  with  the  Covenanters. 
Battle  of  Bothwell  Bridge.  Rye  House  Plot.  Charles  a  pen- 
sioner of  France.  Names  Whig  and  Tory  come  into  use. 
Dryden  and  Butler,  the  poets  ;  Locke,  the  philosopher. 

James  n. ,  a  Roman  Catholic ,  soon  alienates  the  people 
by  his  love  for  that  form  of  religion,  is  quite  unable  to 
resist  the  invasion  of  WiUiam  of  Orange ,  and  escapes  to 
France,  where  he  spends  his  last  years  at  St.  Germain. 

William  m.  and  Hary  11.  William  of  Orange ,  with  his 
wife,  the  elder  daughter  of  James  II.,  now  ascends  the 
throne.  The  Declaration  of  Rights.  Battles  of  Killiecrankie 
and  The  Boyne.   Sir  Isaac  Newton. 

Anne,  younger  daughter  of  James  II.,  completes  the 
fusion  of  England  and  Scotland  by  the  union  of  their 
parliaments.  Marlborough's  victories  of  Blenheim,  RamilieSj 


xxii 


ly.  OUTLINE  OF  ENGLISH  HISTORY. 


1714  to   the 

present  day. 

1714-1727. 


1727-1760. 


1760-1820. 


1820  1830. 


1830-1837. 
1837-1901. 


Oudenardt,  and  Malplaquet^  in  the  Spanish  Wai  of  Succes- 
sion. Capture  of  Oibrcdtar.  The  poets  Poptt  Addison^  Sivift, 
Prior^  and  Allan  Ramsay. 

Hanoybbian  Dynasty. 

George  I.  snoceeds  in  right  of  his  descent  from  James  I. 
Rebellion  in  Scotland  (in  favour  of  the  Pretender)  quelled. 
Sir  Robert  Walpole^  prime  minister.   Daniel  Defoe. 

George  n.  Rehellion  in  favour  of  the  Young  Pretender, 
Charles  Edward  Stuart  ^  crushed  at  CkUloden.  Canada 
taken  from  the  French.  William  Pitt ,  Lord  Chatham^ 
prime  minister;  Richardson,  Fielding,  Smollett ,  Sterne^ 
noYellsts;  Thomson,  Young,  Oray,  Collins,  Oay,  poets; 
Hogarth,  painter. 

George  m.  American  War  of  Independence.  War  with 
France.  Victories  of  Nelson  at  Aboukir  and  Trafalgar,  and 
of  Wellington  in  Spain  and  at  Waterloo,  Tho  younger  Pitt, 
prime  minister;  Shelley,  Keats,  Burths,  poets. 

George  IV.  Roman  Catholic  Emancipation  Bill.  Daniel 
O'Connell.  The  English  aid  the  Greeks  in  the  War  of  In- 
dependence. Victory  of  Navarino.  Byron,  Sir  WcUter  Scott, 
Wordsworth,  Coleridge,  Southey, 

William  IV.  Abolition  of  slavery.   Reform  Bill. 

Victoria,  niece  of  William  IV.  Repeal  of  the  Corn  Laws 
(i846).  Crimean  War(1854).  Indian  Mutiny(1867).  Con- 
federation of  Canada  (1867).  Second  Reform  Bill  (1867). 
War  with  the  Transvaal  (1899-1901).  Darmn's  ^Origin  of 
Species'  (1859).  Peel,  Russell,  Melbourne,  Palmerston, 
Disraeli  ( Beacon^field) ,  Gladstone,  John  Bright,  Cobden, 
statesmen;  Tennyson  tL\id.Browning,-poeU',  Dickens,  Thacke- 
ray, Oeorge  Eliot,  Meredith,  novelists;  Macaulay,  Carlyle, 
Freeman,  historians;  Raskin;  Herbert  Spencer. 


The  present  sovereign  of  Great  Britain  is  — 

King  Edward  Vn.,  born  9th  Nov.,  1841 ;  married,  on  10th  March, 
1863,  to  Alexandra  (b.  Dec.  Ist,  1844),  eldest  daughter  of  King 
Christian  IX.  of  Denmark;  ascended  the  throne  Jan.  22nd,  1901. 

The  children  of  this  marriage  are:  — 

(1)  Albert  Victor,  Dake  of  Clarence,  bom  8th  Jan.,  1864;  died  4th  Jan., 
1892. 

(2)  George  Frederick,  Prince  of  Wales,  Heir  Apparent  to  the  throne, 
bom  14<h  June,  1865  •,  married  Princess  Victoria  Mary  ofTcck,  6th  July,  1883. 

(3)  Louise,  born  20th  Feb.,  1867;  married  to  the  Duke  of  Fife,  27th  July, 
1889. 

(4)  Victoria,  bom  6th  July,  1868. 

(5)  Maud,  born  26th  Nov.,  1869;  married  to  Prince  Charles  of  Denmark, 
now  King  Haakon  VII.  of  Norway,  22nd  July,  1896. 

(6)  Alexander,  born  6th  April,  1871;  died  7th  April,  1871. 


xxiil 
V.   Historical  Sketch  of  London. 

The  most  populous  city  in  the  woild  (which  London  un- 
qnestionahly  is)  cannot  fail  to  have  had  an  eventful  history,  in 
all  that  concerns  race,  creed,  institutions,  culture,  and  general 
progress.  At  what  period  the  Britons,  one  branch  of  the  Celtic  race, 
settled  on  this  spot,  there  is  no  authentic  evidence  to  shew.  The 
many  forms  which  the  name  assumes  in  early  records  have  led  to  much 
controversy;  but  it  is  clear  that  'London'  is  derived  from  the  Latin 
Londiniuniy  the  name  given  it  in  Tacitus,  and  that  this  is  only  an 
adaptation  by  the  Romans  of  the  ancient  British  name  Llyn  or  Lm, 
a  pool,  and  din  or  dun,  a  high  place  of  strength,  a  hill-fort,  or  city. 
The  'pool'  was  a  widening  of  the  river  at  this  part,  where  it  makes 
a  bend,  and  offered  a  convenient  place  for  shipping.  Whether  the 
'dun'  or  hill  was  the' high  ground  reached  by  Ludgate  Hill,  and  on 
which  St.  Paul's  now  stands,  or  Gornhill,  near  the  site  of  the  Man- 
sion House,  it  is  difficult  to  decide  t .  Probably  both  these  eleva- 
tions were  on  the  ^pool'.  The  etymology  of  the  first  syllable  of  Lon- 
don is  the  same  as  that  of  'Lin'  in  Lincoln,  which  was  called  by 
Ptolemy  Lindon  (AivSov),  and  by  the  Romans  Lindum,  the  second 
syllable  of  the  modern  form  of  the  name  representing  the  word 
'Colonia'.  The  present  British  or  Welsh  name  of  London  is  Llun- 
dain;  but  it  was  formerly  also  known  to  the  Welsh  as  Caer-ludd, 
the  City  of  Lud ,  a  British  king  said  to  have  ruled  here  just  before 
the  Roman  period,  and  popularly  supposed  to  be  commemorated 
in  Lud  -  gate  tf ,  one  of  the  gates  of  the  old  walled  city,  near  the 
Junction  of  Ludgate  Hill  and  Farringdon  Street. 

London,  in  the  days  of  the  Britons,  was  probably  Jittle  more 
than  a  collection  of  huts,  on  a  dry  spot  in  the  midst  of  a  marsh, 
or  in  a  cleared  space  in  the  midst  of  a  wood,  and  encompassed 
by  an  artificial  earthwork  and  ditch.  That  there  was  much  marsh 
and  forest  in  the  immediate  vicinity  is  proved  by  the  character  of 
the  deep  soil  when  turned  up  in  digging  foundations,  and  by  the 
small  subterranean  streams  which  still  run  into  the  Thames,  as  at 
Dowgate,  foimexly  Dourgate  (*water  gate',  from  Celtic  dwr^  water), 
at  the  Fleet  Ditch,  at  Blackfriars  Bridge,  etc. 

After  the  settlement  of  the  Romans  in  Britain,  quite  early  in 
the  Christian  era,  London  rapidly  grew  in  importance.  In  the  time 
of  the  Emperor  Nero  (62  A.D.),  the  city  had  become  a  resort  of 
merchants  from  various  countries  and  the  centre  of  a  considerable 
maritime  commerce,  the  river  Thames  aflfording  ready  access  for 
shipping.  It  suffered  terribly  during  the  sanguinary  struggle  between 
the  Romans  and  the  British  queen  Boadicea,  and  was  in  later  cen- 
turies  frequently  attacked  and  plundered   by  piratical   bands  of 


t  The  latter  alternative  is  that  of  the  Rev.  W.  J.  Loftie,  one  of  Lon- 
Aon^s  best  historians  (see  p.  xxxiv). 

t+  In  reality  from  the  Anglo-Saxon  Lydgeaat^  a  postern  (T.oftie). 


xxlv  V.    HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  LONDON. 

Franks,  Noisemen,  Danes,  and  Saxons,  who  crossed  the  seas  to  reap 
a  ruthless  harvest  from  a  city  which  douhtless  possessed  much  com- 
mercial wealth  ;  but  it  speedily  recovered  from  the  effects  of  these 
visitations.  As  a  Roman  settlement  London  was  frequently  named 
Auguata,  but  it  was  never  raised  to  the  dimity  of  being  a  muni- 
cipium  like  Verulamium  (p.  418)  or  Eboraeum  (York)  and  was  not 
regarded  as  the  capital  of  Roman  Britain.  It  extended  from  the  site 
of  the  present  Tower  of  London  on  the  E.  to  Newgate  on  the  W., 
and  inland  from  the  Thames  as  far  as  the  marshy  ground  known  in 
later  times  as  Moorflelds.  Relics  are  still  found  almost  annually  of 
the  foundations  of  Roman  buildings  of  a  substantial  and  elegant 
character.    Fragments  of  the  Roman  wall  are  also  discernible. 

This  wall  was  maintained  in  parts  until  modem  times,  but  has  almost 
entirely  disappeared  before  the  alterations  and  improvements  which  taste 
and  the  necessities  of  trade  have  introduced.  The  most  prominent  remain- 
ing piece  of  the  Roman  walls  is  in  London  Wall,  between  Wood  Street 
and  Aldermanbury,  where  an  inscribed  tablet  calls  attention  to  it.  An- 
other fragment  may  be  seen  in  the  adjacent  churchyard  of  St.  Giles,  Crip* 
plegate  (see  p.  96)  ^  while  a  third,  8  ft.  thick,  forms  the  north  boundary 
of  the  General  Post  Office  North  (p.  96)  from  Aldersgate  Street  to  King 
Edward  Street.  The  Roman  wall  seems  to  have  been  9-12  ft.  thick  and 
20  ft.  high  and  to  have  consisted  of  a  core  of  rubble  with  a  facing  of 
stone  and  bonding  courses  of  brick. 

The  gates  of  Roman  London,  whose  walls  are  believed  to  have 
been  first  built  on  such  an  extended  scale  as  to  include  the  above- 
mentioned  limits  by  the  Emperor  Constantine  in  the  fourth  cen- 
tury, were  Newgate,  Bishopsgate,  and  a  gate  on  the  river.  In  after- 
times  we  find  Lud-gate,  Dour-gate,  Billings-gate,  Postern-gate, 
Ale-gate  or  All-gate  (Aldgate),  Bishops-gate,  Moor-gate,  Cripple- 
gate,  Alders-gate,  and  New-gate,  all  of  which  are  still  commemorated 
in  names  of  streets,  etc.,  marking  the  localities.  Roman  London 
from  the  Tower  to  Ludgate  was  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  from  the 
Thames  to  ^London  Wall'  about  half-a-mile  in  breadth.  Its  remains 
at  Cheapside  and  the  Mansion  House  are  found  at  about  18  feet 
below  the  present  surface.  The  Roman  city  as  at  first  enclosed 
must,  however,  have  been  smaller,  as  Roman  sepulchres  have  been 
found  in  Moorgate  Street,  Bishopsgate,  and  Smithfield,  which  must 
then  have  lain  beyond  the  walled  city.  The  Saxons ,  who  seldom 
distinguished  themselves  as  builders ,  contributed  nothing  to  the 
fortification  of  London ;  but  King  Alftred  refounded  the  city  and 
restored  the  walls  (886)  as  a  rampart  against  the  Danes,  who  never 
took  London  afterwards.  The  Normans  also  did  much,  beginning  with 
the  erection  of  the  Tower.  During  the  earlier  ages  of  Saxon  rule 
the  great  works  left  here  by  the  Romans  —  villas,  baths,  bridges, 
roads,  temples,  statuary  —  were  either  destroyed  or  allowed  to  fall 
into  decay,  as  was  the  case,  indeed,  all  over  Britain. 

London  became  the  capital  of  one  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  kingdoms, 
and  continued  to  increase  in  size  and  importance.  The  sites  of  two 
of  modern  London's   most  prominent  buildings  —  Westminster 


V.   HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  LONDON.  xxv 

Abbey  and  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  —  were  oocapled  as  early  as  the 
beginning  of  the  7th  cent,  by  the  modest  originals  of  these  two 
stately  chnrohes.  Bede,  at  the  beginning  of  the  8th  cent.,  speaks 
of  London  as  a  great  market  frequented  by  foreign  traders,  and  we 
And  it  paying  one-flfth  of  a  contribution  exacted  by  Canute  from 
the  entire  kingdom.  From  William  the  Conqueror  London  received 
a  chartert  in  which  he  engaged  to  maintain  the  rights  of  the  city, 
but  the  same  monarch  erected  the  White  Tower  to  overawe  the 
citizens  in  the  event  of  disaffection.  At  this  time  the  city  prob- 
ably contained  30-40,000  inhabitants.  A  special  promise  is  made 
in  Magna  Charts,  extorted  from  King  John,  to  observe  all  the  ancient 
privileges  of  London;  and  we  may  date  the  present  form  of  its 
Corporation,  consisting  of  Mayor,  Aldermen,  and  Common  Coun- 
cilmeu,  from  a  somewhat  earlier  period  tt.  The  13th  and  14th  centu- 
ries are  marked  in  the  annals  of  London  by  several  lamentable  fires, 
famines,  and  pestilences,  in  which  many  thousands  of  its  inhabitants 
perished.  The  year  1381  witnessed  the  rebellion  of  Wat  Tyler,  who 
was  slain  by  Lord  Mayor  Walworth  at  Smithfleld.  In  this  outbreak, 
and  still  more  in  that  of  Jack  Cade  (1450),  London  suffered  severely, 
through  the  burning  and  pillaging  of  its  houses.  During  the  reigns  of 
Henry  VIII.  (1509-47)  and  his  daughter  Mary  (1552-58),  London 
acquired  a  terrible  familiarity  with  the  fires  lighted  to  consume  un- 
fortunate ^heretics'  at  the  stake,  while  under  the  more  beneficent 
reign  of  Elizabeth  (1558-1603)  the  capitol  showed  its  patriotic 
zeal  by  its  liberal  contributions  of  men,  money,  and  ships,  for  the 
purpose  of  resisting  the  threatened  attack  of  the  Armada. 

A  map  of  London  at  this  time  would  show  the  Tower  standing  on 
the  verge  of  the  City  on  the  K.,  while  on  the  W.  the  much  smaller 
city  of  Westminster  would  still  be  a  considerable  distance  from  London. 
The  Strand,  or  river-side  road  connecting  the  two  cities,  would  appear 
bordered  by  numerous  aristocratic  mansions,  with  gardens  extending  into 
the  fields  or  down  to  the  river.  Throughout  the  l^orman  period,  and 
down  to  the  times  of  the  Plantagenets  and  the  Wars  of  the  Boses ,  the 
commonalty  lived  in  poor  and  mean  wooden  dwellings;  but  there  were 
many  good  houses  for  the  merchants  and  manufacturers,  and  many  im- 
portant religious  houses  and  hospitals,  while  the  Thames  was  provided 
with  numerous  convenient  quays  and  landing-stages.  The  streets,  even 
as  lately  as  the  17th  cent.,  were  narrow,  dirty ^  full  of  ruts  and  holes, 
and  ill-adapted  for  traffic.  Many  improvements,  however,  were  made 
at  the  period  we  have  now  reached  (the  end  of  the  i6th  cent.),  though 
these  still  left  London  very  di£ferent  from  what  we  now  see  it. 


t  The  following  is  the  text  of  this  charter  as  translated  by  Bishop 
Stubbs :  —  ^William  king  greets  William  bishop  and  Gosfrith  portreeve, 
and  all  the  burghers  within  London,  French  and  English,  friendly;  and 
I  do  you  to  wit  that  I  will  that  ye  be  all  lawworthy  that  were  in  King 
Edward's  day.  And  I  will  that  every  child  be  his  father's  heir  after  his 
father's  day  \  and  I  will  not  endure  that  any  man  offer  any  wrong  to  you. 
God  keep  you\ 

ft  A  deed  among  the  archives  of  St.  Paul's  mentions'a  ^Mayor  of  the 
City  of  London'  in  1193. 

Bakdkkkr's  London.    i5th  Edit.  C 


itxvi  V.    HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  LONDON. 

In  the  GiYil  Wan  London,  which  had  been  most  exposed  to  the 
exactions  of  the  Star  Chamber,  natarally  sided  with  the  Round- 
heads. It  witnessed  Charles  I.  beheaded  at  the  Palace  of  Whitehall 
in  1649,  and  Oliver  Cromwell  proclaimed  Lord  Protector  of  England 
In  1653 ;  and  in  1660  it  saw  Charles  II.  placed  on  the  throne  by  the 
^Restoration'.  This  was  a  period  when  England,  and  London  espe- 
cially, underwent  dire  suifering  in  working  out  the  problem  of  civil 
and  religions  liberty,  the  successful  solution  of  which  laid  the  basis 
of  the  empire's  greatness.  In  1664-66  London  was  turned  into 
a  city  of  mourning  and  lamentation  by  the  ravages  of  the  Great 
Plague,  by  which,  it  is  calculated ,  it  lost  the  enormous  number 
of  100,000  citizens.  Closely  treading  on  the  heels  of  one  calamity 
came  another  —  the  Great  Fire  —  which ,  in  September,  1666, 
destroyed  13,000  houses,  converting  a  great  part  of  the  eastern  half 
of  the  city  into  a  scene  of  desolation.  This  disaster,  however,  ulti- 
mately proved  very  beneficial  to  the  city,  for  London  was  rebuilt  in 
a  much  improved  form,  though  not  so  advantageously  as  it  would 
have  been  if  Sir  Christopher  Wren's  plans  had  been  fully  realised. 
Among  the  new  edifices  erected  after  the  fire  was  the  present  St. 
Paul's  Cathedral.  Of  important  buildings  existing  before  the  fire 
Westminster  Abbey  and  Hall,  the  Temple  Church,  the  Tower,  and 
a  few  of  the  City  churches  are  now  almost  the  only  examples. 

Wren  fortunately  had  hia  own  way  in  building  the  fifty  odd  City 
churches,  and  the  visitor  to  London  should  not  fail  to  notice  their  great 
variety  and  the  skill  with  which  they  are  grouped  with  St.  Paul's  —  though 
this  latter  feature  has  been  somewhat  obscured  by  recent  demolitions  and 
erections.  A  good  panorama  of  the  entire  group  is  obtained  from  the  tower 
of  St.  Saviour's,  Southwark ;  the  general  effect  is  also  visible  from  Black- 
friars  Bridge  (p.  127). 

It  was  not,  however,  till  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne  (1702-14) 
that  London  began  to  put  on  anything  like  its  present  appearance. 
In  1703  it  was  visited  by  a  fearful  storm,  by  which  houses  were 
overthrown,  the  ships  in  the  river  driven  on  shore,  churches  un- 
roofed, property  to  the  value  of  at  least  2,000,000^  destroyed,  and 
the  lives  of  several  hundreds  of -persons  sacrificed.  The  winter  of 
1739-40  is  memorable  for  the  Great  Frost,  lasting  from  Christ- 
mas to  St.  Valentine'i  Day,  during  which  a  fair  was  held  on  the 
frozen  Thames.  Houses  were  first  numbered  in  1767.  Great  injuries 
were  infiicted  on  the  city  by  the  Gordon  No-Popery  Riots  of  1780.  The 
prisons  were  destroyed,  the  prisoners  released,  and  mansions  burned 
or  pillaged,  thirty-six  conflagrations  having  been  counted  at  one  time 
in  different  quarters ;  and  the  rioters  were  not  subdued  till  hundreds 
of  them  had  paid  the  penalty  of  their  misdeeds  with  their  lives. 

Many  of  the  handsomest  streets  and  finest  buildings  in  London 
date  from  the  latterhalf  of  the  18th  century.  To  this  period  belong  the 
Mansion  House,  the  Horse  Guards,  Somerset  House,  and  the  Bank. 
During  the  19th  cent,  the  march  of  improvement  was  so  rapid  as 
to  defy  description.  The  Mint,  the  Custom  House,  Waterloo  Bridge, 


V.  fflSTOMOAL  SKETCH  OF  LONDON.  xxvii 

London  Bridge ,  Bnokingham  Palace ,  the  Pott  Office ,  the  British 
Muienm ,  the  Athenanm  Club ,  the  York  Column ,  the  National 
Gallery,  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  the  new  Law  Courts,  and 
the  whole  of  Belgrayia  and  the  West  End  beyond,  haye  all  arisen 
during  the  last  90  years.  An  important  event  in  the  domestic 
history  of  the  city  was  the  commencement  of  gas-lighting  in  1807. 
(Before  1716  the  proTisions  for  street-lighting  were  very  imper- 
fect, but  in  that  year  an  act  was  passed  ordering  every  householder 
to  hang  out  a  light  before  his  door  f^om  six  in  the  evening  till 
eleven.)  From  that  time  to  the  present  London  has  been  ac- 
tively engaged,  by  the  laying  out  of  spacious  thoroughfares  and  the 
construction  of  handsome  edifices,  in  making  good  its  claim  to  be 
not  only  the  largest,  but  also  one  of  the  finest  cities  in  the  world. 
During  the  last  ten  or  twelve  years  the  greatest  advance  has  been  in 
the  elaboration  and  improvement  of  the  means  of  communication, 
among  the  most  important  achievements  being  the  construction  of 
the  Tower  Bridge  (p.  140)  and  of  the  Black  wall  and  Rotherhithe 
Tunnels  (pp.  14*2,  143),  the  development  of  the  system  of  under- 
ground *tabe^- railways  (p.  33),  and  the  carrying  through  of  the 
gigantic  'Strand  Improvement'  scheme  (p.  168).  The  completion  of 
the  magnificent  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  at  Westminster  (p.  250)  in 
1903,  of  the  War  Office  (p.  212)  in  1907,  and  of  the  new  Government 
Offices  (p.  215)  in  1908  deserves  special  mention. 

No  authentic  estimate  of  the  population  of  London  ean  be  traced 
farther  back  than  two  centuries,  l^r  is  it  easy  to  determine  the  area 
covered  by  buildings  at  different  periods.  At  one  time  the  *City  within 
the  Walls'  comprised  all  \  afterwards  was  added  the  'City  without  the 
Walls'  \  then  the  city  and  liberties  of  Westminster ;  then  the  borough  of 
South wark,  S.  of  the  river  i  then  numerous  parishes  between  the  two 
cities;  and  lastly  other  parishes  forming  an  encircling  belt  around  the 
whole.  All  these  component  elements  at  length  came  to  be  embraced 
under  the  name  of  *London\  The  population  was  about  700,000  in  the 
year  1700,  about  900,000  in  1800,  and  1,800,000  in  1821.  Each  subsequent 
decennial  census  included  a  larger  area  than  the  one  that  preceded  it. 
The  original  ^Gity'  of  London,  covering  little  more  than  1  square  mile,  has 
in  this  way  expanded  to  a  great  metropolis  of  fully  120  square  miles,  contain- 
ing, in  1901,  a  population  of  4,5S6,0ra  persons  (see  p.  :^viii).  Extension  of 
commerce  has  accompanied  the  growth  of  population.  Statistics  of  trade 
in  past  centuries  are  wanting :  but  at  the  present  time  London  supplies  half 
the  total  customs-revenue  of  the  kingdom.  The  vessels  entering  and 
clearing  at  the  port  of  London  comprise  one-fifth  of  the  total  tonnage 
of  the  British  and  foreign  vessels  trading  between  the  United  Kingdom 
and  foreign  countries  and  British  colonies. 

VI.   Topography,  Statistics,  and  Administration. 

Topography.  The  city  of  London  is  built  upon  a  tract  of  un- 
dulating clay  soil,  -which  extends  irregularly  along  the  valley  of 
the  Thames  from  a  point  near  Beading  to  Harwich  and  Heme  Bay 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  a  distance  of  about  120  miles.  It  is  divided 
into  two  portions  by  the  river  Thames,  which,  rising  in  the  Gotswold 
Hills  in  Gloucestershire,  is  from  its  source  down  to  its  mouth  in 


xxvlii  VI.    TOPOGRAPHY,  STATISTICS, 

the  German  Ocean  at  Sheemess  230  M.  in  length,  and  is  nayigable 
by  sea-going  vessels  for  a  distance  of  50  M.  —  The  southern  and 
less  important  part  of  London  (Southwark,  Lambethj  Qreenwichy  etc.] 
lies  in  the  counties  of  Surrey  and  Kent,'  the  northern  and  principal 
portion  in  Middlesex, 

The  name  'London'  is  a  word  of  indeterminate  scope,  and  no 
official  use  of  the  name  corresponds  exactly  to  the  huge  continuous 
mass  of  streets  and  dwellings  that  now  form  the  great  and  con- 
stantly extending  Metropolis  —  a  city  which,  in  the  words  of 
Tacitus  (Ann.  14,  33),  is  still  'copi&  negotlatorum  et  commeaturum 
maxime  celebre'.  The  Administrative  County  of  London^  including 
the  Olty  (p.  xxx)  and  the  districts  more  directly  under  the  juris- 
diction of  the  London  County  Council  (p.  xxxi),  has  an  area  of 
118  sq.  M.  and  a  population  (1901)  of  4,536,541  j  but  its  boundaries 
at  many  points  fall  far  within  the  limits  of  the  inhabited  area. 
*  Orea'er  London\  or  the  district  of  the  Metropolitan  and  City  Police, 
extending  12-15  M.  in  every  direction  from  Charing  Cross,  embrafies 
an  area  of  700  sq.M.,with  a  population  of  6,581,372,  but  it  stretches 
beyond  the  continuous  inhabited  area  and  includes  various  villages 
and  country  districts  which  are  not  yet  engulfed  in  the  Metropolis, 
whatever  may  be  their  ultimate  fate.  The  area  within  the  juris- 
diction of  the  Central  Criminal  Court  (p.  97),  the  Metropolitan  water- 
area  (p.  xxxiij,  and  the  London  postal  district  form  three  other 
'Londons',  all  differing  in  size  and  population.  The  Port  of  London 
Includes  the  Thames  below  Teddington  Lock. 

London  —  the  inhabited  area  —  has  more  than  doubled  in  size 
within  the  last  half-century,  being  now,  from  Stratford  and  Black- 
wall  on  the  E.  to  Kew  Bridge  and  Acton  on  the  W.,  14  M.  in  length, 
and,  from  Streatham  and  the  Crystal  Palace  on  the  S.  to  flomsey 
and  Highgate  on  the  N.,  10  M.  in  breadth,  while  it  covers  an  area  of 
about  130  square  miles.  This  area  is,  at  a  rough  estimate,  occupied 
by  8000  streets,  which  if  laid  end  to  end  would  form  a  line  3000  M. 
long.  The  600,000  buildings  of  this  gigantic  city  include  1600 
churches  of  various  denominations,  7500  public  houses,  1700  coffee- 
houses, and  500  hotels  and  inns.  The  annual  rateable  value  of 
house  property  in  the  County  of  London  (see  above)  in  1907  was 
43,889, 181i.,  in  the  Metropolitan  Police  District  52,911, 670i.  Ac- 
cording to  the  census  of  1901,  the  population  of  the  Administrative 
County  of  London  was  4,536,541,  an  increase  of  308,223  over  that 
of  1891  and  nearly  double  that  of  1851  (2,363,274).  The  number 
of  paupers  was  102,000.  There  are  in  London  more  Scotsmen  than 
in  Aberdeen,  more  Irish  than  in  Dublin,  more  Jews  than  in  Palestine, 
and  more  Roman  Catholics  than  in  Rome.  The  number  of  Americans 
resident  in  London  has  been  estimated  by  a  competent  authority  at 
15,000,  while  perhaps  100,000  pass  through  it  annually.  In  Paris 
the  Americans  number  about  8000. 

Besides  the  official  administrative  districts,  to  be  afterwards 


AND  ADMINISTRATION.  xxix 

mentioned,  tliere  are  a  number  of  local  topographical  snbdiylslons 
in  London,  the  names  of  which  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  The 
main  or  central  part  of  the  Metropolis  to  the  N.  of  the  Thames  — 
the  London  of  the  tourist  (excluding  the  N.  and  N.E.  outlying 
districts)  —  is  divided  into  two  great  halves,  known  as  the  City 
and  East  End  and  the  Wtat  End» 

The  City  and  the  Babt  End,  consisting  of  that  part  of  London 
which  lies  to  the  £.  of  the  Temple,  form  the  commercial  and 
money-making  quarter  of  the  Metropolis.  It  embraces  the  Port,  the 
Docks,  the  Custom  House,  the  Bank,  the  Exchange,  the  in- 
numerable counting-houses  of  merchants,  money-changers,  brokers, 
and  underwriters,  the  General  Post  Office,  the  printing  and  publish- 
ing offices  of  The  Times,  the  legal  corporations  of  the  Inns  of  Court, 
and  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Paul's,  towering  above  them  all.  —  The 
following  districts  in  this  portion  of  the  Metropolis  are  distinguished 
by  their  population  and  leading  occupations :  Paternoster  Row^  near 
St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  is  still  an  important  centre  of  the  book-trade, 
though  many  large  firms  have  migrated  to  the  W. ;  Smithfield  is  the 
region  of  markets }  C2erfccnire2^,between  Islington  and Hatton  Garden, 
is  the  district  of  watch-makers  and  metal-workers.  Immediately  to 
the  E.  of  the  City  are  Whitechapely  with  its  Jewish  tailoring  work- 
shops, and  Houndsditch  and  the  Minories^  the  quarters  of  the  Jews. 
BethncU  Green  and  Spitalfields  to  the  N.,  and  part  of  Shoreditch^ 
form  a  manufacturing  district,  once  occupied  to  a  large  extent 
by  silk  -  weavers,  partly  descended  from  the  French  Protestants 
(Huguenots)  who  took  refuge  in  England  after  the  Revocation  of 
the  Edict  of  Nantes  in  1685.  Furniture- making  and  boot-making 
are  now  the  chief  industries.  On  the  left  (N.)  bank  of  the  Thames 
below  the  Tower  stretch  the  districts  of  Wapping,  Shadwell^  Lime- 
Aoiwe,  Poplar,  and  MUlwallj  all  chiefly  composed  of  quays,  wharves, 
storehouses,  and  engine-factories ,  and  inhabited  by  shipwrights, 
lightermen,  sailors,  and  marine  store  dealers.  On  the  W.  verge  of 
the  City  are  Chancery  Lane  and  the  Inns  of  Courtj  the  headquarters 
of  barristers,  solicitors,  and  law-stationers. 

The  Wbst  End,  or  that  part  of  the  town  to  the  "W.  of  the 
Temple,  is  the  quarter  of  London  which  spends  money,  makes  laws, 
and  regulates  the  fashions.  It  contains  the  Palace  of  the  King,  the 
Mansions  of  the  aristocracy,  the  Clubs,  Museums,  Picture  Galleries, 
Theatres,  Barracks,  Government  Offices,  Houses  of  Parliament,  and 
Westminster  Abbey ;  and  it  is  the  special  locality  for  parks,  squares, 
and  gardens,  for  gorgeous  equipages  and  powdered  lackeys.  —  The 
most  fashionable  residential  quarters  in  the  West  End  are  Mayfair 
(p.  325),  the  district  between  Bond  St.  and  Park  Lane,  Belgravia 
(p.  366),  the  district  around  Belgrave  Square,  and  Tyhumia,  bound- 
ing Hyde  Park  on  the  N.  TotheW.  of  Tyburnia  extends  Bai/sii^ater. 
PimlicOy  which  strictly  speaking  includes  Belgravia,  extends  between 
Westminster  and  Chelsea  from  Knightsbridge  to  the  river.  To  the  W. 


XXX  VI.   TOPOGRAPHY,  STATISTICS, 

of  its  N.  portion  is  Brompton,  witli  the  South  Kensington  Museums. 
Bloonuibury  (p.  272)  lies  between  Tottenham  Court  Road  and  Gray's 
Inn  Road. 

On  the  Right  Bank  of  the  Thames,  immediately  opposite  the 
City,  lies  the  ancient  horough  of  Soutkwark^  or  ^Tke  Borough\  con- 
tinued to  the  W.  by  Lambeth  and  Batterseaj  the  three  forming  a 
busy  industrial  district  eontaining  numerous  potteries,  glass-works, 
machine-factores,  breweries,  and  hop-warehouses.  On  the  river 
below  Southwarlt  stretch  Bermondsey,  famous  for  its  tanneries,  glue- 
factories,  and  wool-warehouses,  Botherhithej  chiefly  inhabited  by 
sailors,  ship-carpenters,  coal-heavers,  and  bargemen,  Depiford^  with 
its  great  cattle-market,  Qreenwich^  and  Woolwich, 

Administrative  Divisions.  The  City  of  London,  i.e.  the  City 
Proper,  is  of  course  the  most  important,  as  it  is  by  far  the  most 
ancient,  administratiye  unit  in  the  mighty  London  of  which  it  was 
the  nucleus.  Occupying  an  area  of  about  1  sq.M.,  It  is  bounded  on 
the  W.  by  the  site  of  Temple  Bar  and  Southampton  Buildings ; 
on  the  N.  by  Holborn,  Smithfleld,  Barbican,  and  Finsbury  Circus ; 
on  the  E.  by  Bishopsgate  Without,  Petticoat  Lane,  Aldgate,  and 
the  Minories ;  and  on  the  S.  by  the  Thames.  Strictly  speaking  it 
forms  a  county  of  itself  and  is  not  included  in  Middlesex. 

The  City  is  divided  into  26  Wards  (or  27,  including  that  of  Bridge 
Without  or  Southwark)  and  112  parishes,  has  a  separate  admini- 
stration and  jurisdiction  of  its  own,  and  is  presided  over  by  the  Lord 
Mayor.  At  the  census  of  1896  it  consisted  of  4568  inhabited  houses 
with  31,083  inhabitants  (43,687  less  than  in  1871).  The  resident 
population  is  steadily  decreasing  on  account  of  the  constant  emi- 
gration to  the  West  End  and  suburbs,  the  ground  and  buildings  being 
80  valuable  for  commercial  purposes  as  to  preclude  their  use  merely 
as  dwellings.  More  than  5000  houses  iare  left  empty  every  night 
under  the  guardianship  of  the  1001  members  of  the  City  police  force. 
The  day  population  of  the  City  in  1891  was  301,381,  and  the  number 
of  houses  or  separate  tenements  in  which  persons  were  actively 
employed  during  the  day  was  25,143.  The  rateable  value  of  property 
in  1907  was  5,373,276^.  Sites  for  building  in  the  City  sometimes 
realise  no  less  than  20-70^  per  square  foot.  The  annual  revenue  of 
the  City  of  London  is  over  l,OOO,000i.  In  1891  an  attempt  was 
made  to  estimate  the  number  of  persons  and  vehicles  entering  the 
City  precincts  within  24  hours.  Enumerators  were  stationed  at  80 
different  inlets,  and  their  returns  showed  the  enormous  totals  of 
1,121,708  persons  and  92,488  vehicles. 

When  London  overflowed  the  old  City  boundaries  the  areas  out- 
side the  limits  of  the  Corporation  (see  p.  xxvii)  were  administered 
under  a  medley  of  some  200  private  Acts.  The  needs  of  traffic  and 
sanitary  reform  produced  the  Metropolis  Management  Act,  1855,  under 
which  (and  some  amending  Acts)  local  government  was  handed 


AND  ADMINISTRATION.  xxxi 

over  to  42  Yestriei  and  District  Boards.  By  the  London  GoTern- 
meiit  Act,  1899,  these  were  amalgamated  in  1900  into  28  Metropolitan 
Boroughs^  each  with  an  electlye  council  and  a  mayor. 

The  Borough  Councils  haye  as  their  main  datief  the  care  of  the  puhlie 
health,  the  provision  of  local  drainage,  and  the  maintenance  of  the  streets. 
Public  baths,  libraries,  and  electric  lighting  wurks  also  come  within  their 
purview,  as  well  as  (he  clearing  of  unhealthy  areas.  The  total  expenditure 
by  vestries  in  1896-97  was  2,7e2,000<. 

The  chief  metropolitan  borough  is  Westminster ^  to  theW.  of  the 
City,  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Bayswater  Road  and  Oxford  Street,  on 
the  W.  by  Chelsea,  Kensington,  and  Brompton,  and  on  the  S.  by  the 
Thames.  It  comprises  three  of  the  parliamentary  boroughs  (West- 
minster Proper  or  the  Abbey  District,  the  Strand  District,  and  the 
District  of  St.  George^s,  Hanover  Square),  each  returning  one 
member  to  the  House  of  Commons.  It  contains  23,104  houses  and 
193,465  inhabitants.  Though  a  city  constituted  by  royal  charter, 
Westminster  had  no  municipality  until  the  vestries  for  the  three 
districts  were  replaced  by  a  borough  oouncU  under  the  London 
Government  Act  of  1899. 

The  remaining  municipal  boroughs  are  Battersea,  Bermondsey, 
Bethnal  Oreen,  Caniberwell,  Chelsea^  Deptford,  Finsbury,  Fulham, 
Greenwich y  Hackney y  Hammersmith^  Hampsteady  Holbom,  Islington^ 
Kensington,  Lambeth^  Lewishamy  Padding  ton.  Poplar ,  St.  Maryleboney 
8t,  PancraSy  Shoreditch,  Southwarky  Stepney,  Stoke  Newington, 
Wandsworth,  and  Woolwich, 

The  vestries,  etc.,  together  with  the  City  Corporation,  elected  a 
central  authority,  the  Metropolitan  Board  of  Works.  This  body 
lost  public  confidence  and  in  1889  was  superseded  by  the  London 
County  Council,  created  by  the  Local  Government  Act,  1888,  and 
entrusted  with  several  new  powers.  The  ^Administrative  County  of 
London^  includes  the  City  and  parts  of  the  counties  of  Middlesex, 
Surrey,  and  Rent.  There  are  118  Councillors,  two  being  elected 
trlennially  by  the  borough  franchise  for  each  parliamentary  division 
(p.  xxxiii),  and  19  Aldermen  appointed  by  the  Council.  The  office  of 
the  County  Council  is  in  Spring  Gardens,  CharingCross  (PI.  R,  26 ;  /V), 
but  a  site  has  been  secured  and  plans  accepted  for  the  erection  of 
an  imposing  County  Hall,  adjoining  Westminster  Bridge,  on  the 
S.  bank  of  the  Thames.  The  annual  income  of  the  Council  is  about 
4,600,000^.  and  its  debt  46,760,000z. 

The  most  important  work  of  the  Metropolitan  Board  of  Works  was 
the  Main  DrcUntige  8yitem.  begun  in  1859  under  Sir  Joseph  Bazalgette,  and 
carried  out  at  a  cost  or  6,600,000{.  New  works  now  undertaken  by  the 
County  Council  will  cost  ultimately  over  8,000,000;.  Every  year  60,000,000 
tons  of  sewage  are  conveyed  through  SVh  H.  of  main  sewers  to  Barking 
Creek  and  Crossness  at  the  mouth  of  the  Thames,  where  are  works  for 
deodorising  and  precipitating.  The  Thames  Embankment  (described  at  p.  125), 
Queen  Victoria  Street,  8ha/tesburv  Avenue,  and  Charing  (k-osi  Road  are  scarce- 
ly less  important  undertakings  of  the  Board  of  Works,  which  also  freed 
the  bridges  from  tolls  at  a  cost  of  1,500,0001.,  and  established  a  free  ferry 
across  the  Thames  at  Woolwich.  The  County  Council  has  also  carried 
out  large  schemes  for  the  facilitation  of  traffic.    BlacktocAl  Tunnel,  opened 


xxxii  VI.  TOPOGRAPHY,  STATISTICS, 

in  1897,  cost  1,400,000/.,  and  is  6210  ft.  in  length  (12S0  ft.  beneath  the  river) 
and  24  ft.  in  diameter.  Greenwich  Ttamei^  opened  in  1902,  is  1217  ft.  in  length 
and  8  ft.  in  width  ^  it  cost  about  120,000/.  Rotherhithe  Tunnel,  opened  in 
1908,  is  11/4  M.  in  leneth  (1636  ft.  under  the  river)  and  26  ft.  in  width ; 
its  cost  is  about  1,000,000/.  Yauxhall  Bridge  has  been  rebuilt  and  Highgate 
Archway  has  been  reconstructed.  Over  600,000/.  has  been  spent  on  the  approa- 
ches to  the  Tower  Bridge,  and  the  Thames  Embankment  is  to  be  extended  from 
the  Houses  of  Parliament  to  Lambeth  Bridge  at  an  estimated  cost  of  500,000/. 
Of  the  numerous  street-improvements  carried  out  by  the  Council,  the 
gigantic  scheme  for  widening  the  E.  end  of  the  Strand  and  cutting  a 
new  thoroughfare  to  Holborn  is  the  most  important  (p.  168).  This  haa 
cost  about  4,500,000/.,  and  has  entailed  the  building  of  large  blocks  of 
working-class  dwellings  on  the  site  of  the  old  Millbank  pri«on  to  rehouse 
about  4000  persons  displaced.  About  20  per  cent  of  the  population  live  in 
overcrowded  conditions,  and  much  has  been  done,  though  much  remains 
to  do,  to  remedy  this  evil.  Schemes  completed  and  in  progress  for  the 
re-housing  of  persons  displaced  by  the  clearing  of  insanitary  areas  and 
by  street-improvements  involve  nearly  100,000  persons  and  about  5,000,000/. 
In  Boundary  Street,  Bethnal  Oreen,  the  Council  has  cleared  15  acres  of 
slums,  the  largest  municipal  undertaking  of  the  kind,  and  rehoused  in 
handsome  new  dwellings  5500  persons,  at  a  total  cost  of  383,000/.  The 
Council  is  the  authority  for  administering  the  Building  Acts  in  London.  It 
also  controls  in  all  5057  out  of  the  6403  acres  of  royal  parks  and  open  spaces 
in  London  and  has  made  ample  provision  for  games  and  so  forth.  Nine 
asylums  are  maintained  at  an  annual  cost  of  nearly  500,000/.  for  17,000  lunatics. 
The  Council  also  owns  nearly  the  whole  of  the  tramway  mileage  in  London. 
The  Council  controls  the  London  Fire  Brigade,  a  force  of  1836  men 
costing  260,000/.  a  year.  To  deal  with  about  3500  fires  annually  there  are 
93  land  fire-engines  and  6  river  engines.  The  headquarters  are  in  Southwark 
Bridge  Road;  chief  officer,  Capt.  J.  de  C.  Hamilton,  B.N.  —  The  London 
Salvage  Corpt  (63  Watling  Street,  E.  C.)  is  a  body  of  about  100  men  main- 
tained by  the  principal  Fire  Insurance  Companies  to  assist  in  saving  pro- 
perty in  fires. 

In  June,  1904,  the  control  of  the  Water  Supply  of  London  and 
the  neighbouring  districts,  now  including  a  population  of  6,800,000 
persons,  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Metropolitan  Water  Board, 
which  was  established  by  Parliament  in  1902  and  consists  of  re- 
presentatives from  various  local  authorities  interested.  This  board 
a(;quired  by  purchase  (under  arbitration)  the  undertakings  of  the 
eight  private  water-companies  which  previously  held  the  monopoly. 
The  daily  supply  of  water  averages  one  million  tons,  or  36  gallons 
per  head  of  the  population.  Over  50  per  cent  of  the  supply  is 
drawn  from  the  Thames,  22  per  cent  from  the  Lea,  the  rest  from 
wells  and  springs. 

Lighting.  There  are  five  great  Gas  Companies^  which  supply 
over  36,000  million  cubic  feet  of  gas,  from  the  sale  of  which  they 
derive  over  5,300,000^.,  besides  l,800,000i.  from  residual  products. 
—  In  the  introduction  of  Electric  Lighting  London  long  lagged 
behind  most  other  great  cities.  Now  fourteen  of  the  London  boroughs 
manufacture  and  supply  their  own  light,  while  in  the  others  the 
enterprize  is  left  in  private  hands. 

The  Poor  Law  in  London  is  administered  by  32  Boards  of  Guar- 
dians, 4  Boards  of  Managers  of  School  Districts,  and  two  Boards  of 
Managers  for  Sick  Asylum  Districts.  There  is  also  a  central  body, 
the  Metropolitan  Asylums  Board,  partly  elected  by  the  Boards  of 


AND  ADMINISTBATION.  xxxiii 

Guardians  and  partly  nominated  by  the  Local  Government  Board; 
it  maintains  12  fever  hospitals,  2  smallpox  hospitals,  an  ambulance 
service  for  all  London,  5  imbecile  hospitals,  several  homes  for 
children,  and  a  training  ship.  The  total  yearly  expenditure  by  poor 
law  authorities  is  over  3,000,000^,  and  the  number  of  paupers 
relieved  is  about  125,000  daily. 

Education.  The  County  Council  has  been  the  local  education 
authority  fox  the  County  of  London  since  1904,  and  its  educational 
work  is  carried  on  by  the  Education  Committee  (office,  see  p.  127 ), 
which  consists  of  38  members  of  the  Council  and  5  ladies  appointed 
by  the  Council.  Previously,  elementary  education  (free  since  1891) 
was  mainly  attended  to  by  the  Lond  u  School  Board,  consisting 
of  55  members,  elected  by  the  City  and  the  ten  other  districts  into 
which  London  was  divided  for  the  educational  franchise;  while 
technical  and  secondary  education  was  attended  to  by  the  Technical 
Education  Board,  consisting  of  20  members  of  the  County  Council 
and  15  from  other  bodies.  —  The  532  elementary  schools  managed 
by  the  Council  in  1906  accommodated  599,400  children,  while 
435  voluntary  schools  accommodated  150,868,  the  estimated  number 
of  children  of  school-age  in  London  (5-14)  being  769,690.  The 
Council  possessed  also  388  evening  schools,  344  domestic  economy 
centres,  and  205  manual  training  centres,  besides  various  schools  for 
physically  and  mentally  defective  children.  The  number  of  teachers 
under  the  Council  was  12,750,  besides  about  2000  pupil-teachers. 

In  providing  the  means  of  secondary  education  for  the  children 
of  the  poorer  classes,  the  Council  has  proceeded  mainly  upon  the 
policy  of  granting  scholarships  entitling  the  holders  to  free  edu- 
cation in  existing  schools  and  institutions,  some  of  which  it  assists 
by  grants  of  money.  It  maintains,  however,  about  a  dozen  secondary 
schools  of  its  own,  and  is  developing  a  scheme  which  will  raise  this 
number  to  30,  accommodating  10,000  pupils.  —  In  the  domain  of 
technical  education,  the  Council  maintains  a  Central  School  of  Arts 
and  Crafts,  in  a  handsome  building  at  the  corner  of  Southampton 
Row  and  Theobald's  Road,  but  its  main  activity  is  directed  towards 
developing  existing  polytechnics  and  technical  schools  by  grants 
for  technical  classes  and  by  providing  annual  scholarships  for  pupils 
from  elementary  schools. 

A  visit  to  any  of  the  following  will  be  of  interest  to  the  edu- 
cationist (previous  arrangement  with  the  secretary  desirable):  Nor- 
thampton Institute  (p.  104),  City  of  London  College  (White  St., 
Moorflelds),  Birkbeck  Institution  (p.  150 ;  these  three  constitute  the 
City  Polytechnicy,  People's  Palace  (p.  145);  Regent  Street  Polytechnic 
(p.  269).  Several  of  the  polytechnics  have  social  and  recreative,  as 
well  as  educational  sides.  There  are  also  many  special  technical 
and  art  schools  in  London. 

In  the  City  technical  education  is  chiefly  managed  by  the  City 
and  Guilds  of  London  Institute  (Gresham  College,  p.  Ill),  with 


xxxiv  VL  TOPOGRAPHY,  STATISTICS,  etc. 

which  are  connected  the  Guilds  Central  Technical  College  (p.  342), 
Finsbury  Technical  College  (Leonard  St.,  E.  C),  the  Technical  Art 
School  (122  Kennington  Park  Road),  and  the  Leather  Trades  School 
(42  Bethnal  Green  Road).  Several  of  the  great  City  Guilds  (p.  72) 
have  found  a  worthy  outlet  for  some  of  their  wealth  in  the  deve- 
lopment of  technical  education. 

Farliamentaxy  Divisions.  By  the  Redistrihution  Bill  of  1885 
London  is  divided  for  parliamentary  purposes  into  the  City  Proper, 
returning  two  members  of  parliament,  and  27  metropolitan  divisions 
comprising  57  single  member  districts.  London  University  also 
returns  one  member. 

The  following  are  the  parliamentary  divisions,  which  are  rarely 
coterminous  vnth  the  municipal  boroughs  (p.  xxxi),  even  when  the 
names  are  the  same:  Battersea,  Bermondsey^  Bethnal  Green  (N.E. 
and  S,  WJ,  Bow  and  BromUy^  Camberwell,  Chelsea,  City  of  London, 
Clapham,  Deptford,  I>ulwich,  Finsbury  (Central  and  EJ,  Fulham, 
Greenwich^  Hackney  (Central,  N.,  and  S.),  Hampstead,  Hammer' 
smithy  Holborn,  Islington  (E.,  2V.,  S,,  and  W.),  Kensington  (N,  and 
S,),  Lambeth  (Brixton,  Kennington,  N.  Lambeth,  and  Nonoood), 
Lewisham,  Limehouse,  Marylebone  (E,  and  W.),  Mile  End,  Newing- 
tonj  Paddington(N. and SJ,  Peckham,  Poplar,  Rotherhithe, St.George's, 
Hanover  Square,  St.  George's  in  the  East,  St.  Pancras  (N.,  8.,  E., 
and  W.),  Shoreditch  (Haggerston  and  Hoxton),  Stepney,  Southwark, 
Strand,  Walworth,  Wandsworth,  Westminster,  Whitechapel,  and 
Woolwich, 


VII.  Books  relating  to  London. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  best  and  latest  works  on  London 
and  its  neighboaihood. 

London  Past  and  Present,  by  Henry  B.  Whtatlev  (based  upon  Peter 
Curmingham't  Handbook  of  London);  3  vols.;  1891  (an  invaluable  store- 
house of  information,  arranged  in  alphabetical  order). 

The  Story  of  London  (MediGeyal  Towns  Series),  by  Eenrv  B.  Wheailep;  1901. 

London  and  the  Kingdom,  by  Reginald  R.  Sharpe;  1894. 

llodern  History  of  the  City  of  London,  by  Charles  Welchf  1896. 

London  (Uiatorie  Towns  Series),  by  TT.  J.  LofHe/  1897. 

A  History  of  London,  by  W.  J.  Lo/tieg  3  vols.,  illus.;  2nd  ed.,  1884. 

The  Survey  of  London,  published  by  the  London  County  Council  and 
edited  by  C.  R,  Athbee;  Vol.  I,  ICOl  (an  enormous  undertaking  still  in  its 
earliest  stsges). 

Memorials  of  London  and  London  Life  in  the  18th,  14th,  and  16th  Cen- 
turies, by  S.  T.  Riley s  1868  (a  series  of  extracts  from  early  chronicles). 

John  Stow*t  Survey  of  London  (1598);  best  editions  by  John  Strype 
(1720  and  1754):  cheap  abridgement,  edited  by  JYo/.  Henry  Morley^  in  the 
'Carisbrooke  Library*  (Boutledge;  1890). 

London  City,  by  W.  J.  Loftie;  illustrated;  1891. 

London  Afternoons,  by  W.  J,  Loftie;  illustrated;  1901. 

Walks  in  London,  by  Aug.  /.  0.  Hare;  2  vols.,  illus.*,  7th  ed.,  1901. 

London,  by  Sir  WalUr  Besant;  illustrated;  1888. 

Westminster,  by  8ir  WaUer  Betani;  illustrated;  1895. 

South  London,  by  Sir  Walter  Besant;  illustrated;  1896;  new  ed.,  1901. 

East  London,  by  Sir  Walter  Besant;  illustrated;  1901. 

Northern  Heights  of  London,  by  Wm.  Howitt;  illustrated;  1869. 

The  Environs  of  London,  by  Lysonei  5  vols.,  1792-96  and  1811. 

Thome's  Handbook  to  the  Environs  of  London;  2  vols.,  1877. 

Imperial  London,  by  Arthur  H.  Beavan;  1901. 

Casselfs  Old  and  New  London,  by  W.  Thornbury  and  E,  Walford; 
6  vols.,  illustrated;  new  ed.,  1898. 

CasselVs  Greater  London  (16  miles),  by  E.  Walford f  2  vols.,  illustrated; 
new  ed.,  1893-96. 

CasselPs  Living  London,  edited  by  George  R.  Sims;  illustrated;  1902. 

London,  vanished  and  vanishing,  by  Philip  Norman;  illustrated;  1905. 

The  Fascination  of  London,  a  series  of  small  books  on  the  different 
parts  of  London  (Holbom  A  Bloomsbury;  Hammersmith.  Fulham  &  Putney; 
Westminster;  Chelsea,  etc.);  by  various  authors,  1903-4. 

London  Films,  by  W.  D.  Howells;  1907. 

London  in  theBeign  of  Victoria  (1837-1897),  by  C.  Laurence  Gomme;  1898. 

London  Churches:  ancient  and  modern,  by  T,  F.  Bumpus;  2  vols,  1906. 

Shakespeare's  London,  by  T.  Fairman  Ordish;  new  ed.,  1904. 

Dickens's  London,  by  T.  E.  Pemberton;  1876. 

Thackeray's  London,  by  W.  H.  Rideing;  1885. 

In  the  Footprints  of  Charles  Lamb,  by  B.  E.  Martin;  ill.;  1891. 

Old  London  Street  Cries  and  the  Cries  of  To-day,  by  A.  W.  Tuer, 
illustrated;  1886. 

Literary  Landmarks  of  London,  by  Laurence  Hutton;  8th  ed.,  1892. 

The  Highway  of  Letters  (Fleet  Street),  by  Thomas  Archer;  ill.;  1893. 

Memorable  London  Houses,  by  Wibnot  Harrison;  3rd  ed.,  1890. 

Literary  London,  by  W.  P.  Ryan ;  1898. 

Stories  of  the  Streets  of  London,  by  H.  Barton  Baker;  1899. 

Curiosities  of  London,  by  J.  Timbs;  1876. 

Clubs  and  Club  Life  in  London,  by  J.  Timbs;  illustrated;  1872. 

The  City  Companies  of  London,  by  P.  H.  Bitchfield;  1904. 

Early  London  Theatres,  by  T.  Fairman  Ordish ;  1899. 

The  Town,  by  Leigh  Huntf  illustrated;  last  ed.,  1893. 

The  Old  Court  Suburb  (Kensington),  by  Leigh  Hunt;  1860;  new  'Edition 
4e  luxe*,  edited  by  Austin  Dobson,  1902. 


xxx>i  VII.    BOOKS  RELATING  TO  LONDON. 

Saunter  through  the  West  End,  by  Leigh  Huntf  1861. 

BelcourU  London  in  my  Pocket  and  MasseyU  Streeta  of  London  (each  is,) 
are  intended  to  help  in  ascertaining  the  position  of  any  street  in  London. 

The  London  Manual  (is.  6d.  annually)  explains  the  functions  of  the  public 
bodies  of  the  Metropolis. 

WTtitaker'a  Almanack  (1«.  and  2s.  Qd.)  and  Hazelts  Annual  (3«.  6d.) 
give  a  large  amount  of  useful  information  in  a  condensed  form. 


The  most  detailed  plan  of  London  is  that  of  the  Ordnance  Survey^  on 
a  scale  of  5  ft.  per  mile  (in  coarse  of  publication ;  seyeral  hundred  sheets 
at  2«.  6d.  each;  index  map  4d.;  Edward  Stanford,  13  Long  Acre,  W.G.).  — 
Stanford's  New  Map  of  the  County  of  London  consists  of  30  sheets  (4  inches 
to  a  mile)  at  is.  each  (complete,  in  portfolio,  16«.). 


LONDON 

PRELIMINABY  INFOEMATION. 

1.  Arrival  in  London. 

A  list  of  the  great  Terminal  Railway  Stations  in  London  is  given 
at  p.  25,  and  travellers  are  recommended  to  ascertain  beforehand 
for  which  of  these  their  train  is  bound.  Cabs  (see  p.  18)  are  in 
waiting  at  all  these  railway-stations,  and  the  traveller  should  hand 
his  small  baggage  to  a  porter,  telling  him  whether  a  'hansom'  or  a 
*f our- wheeler'  (p.  18)  is  required.  The  porter  will  then  engage  a 
cab  and  afterwards  aid  the  traveller  in  claiming  his  heavier  luggage 
as  it  is  unloaded  from  the  luggage- van.  The  stranger  had  better  let 
the  porter  at  his  hotel  pay  the  cab-fare  in  order  to  prevent  an  over- 
charge. At  the  more  important  stations  Railway  Omnibuses,  holding 
6-10  persons,  may  be  procured  on  previous  application  to  the  sta- 
tion master  (fare  is,  per  mile,  with  two  horses  is,  Qd,-28,,  minimum 
charge  3-4«.). 

Those  who  arrive  in  London  by  water  have  sometimes  to  land 
in  small  boats.  The  tariff  is  Qd,  for  each  person,  and  3d.  for  each 
trunk.  The  traveller  should  take  care  to  select  one  of  the  watermen 
who  wear  a  badge,  as  they  alone  are  bound  by  the  tariff.  Cabs  will 
be  found  at  the  landing-stages. 

2.  Hotels.  Boarding  Houses.  Private  Lodgings. 

Hotels.  The  standard  of  comfort,  or  at  least  of  magnificence,  in 
London  hotels  has  risen  in  recent  years,  and  the  large  first-class 
houses  are  fully  equipped  with  modern  luxuries  and  comforts,  such 
as  electric  light,- lifts,  central  heating,  ample  bath-accommodation, 
telephones  in  the  bedrooms,  and,  in  several  cases,  private  orchestras. 
Even  in  the  older  and  smaller  hotels  most  of  the  rooms  are  fairly 
well-furnished,  while  the  beds  are  clean  and  comfortable.  Numerous 
as  the  London  hotels  are,  it  is  often  difficult  to  procure  rooms  in  the 
height  of  the  Season,  and  it  is  therefore  advisable  to  apply  in  ad- 
vance by  letter  or  telegram. 

Private  Hotels  have  no  license  to  supply  intoxicating  liquors,  but 
in  other  respects  are  often  as  comfortably  and  handsomely  fitted  up 
as  first-class  licensed  houses.  In  many  cases,  however,  the  name 
has  been  appropriated  by  establishments  that  are  practically  nothing 
but  boarding-houses.  —  Temperance  Hotels  are  less  pretentious  and 

Baedbksb's  London.    i6th  Edit.  1 


2  2.   HOTELS. 

have  lower  tariffs  than  the  private  hotels  proper.  Though  as  a 
general  rule  their  cuisine  and  fitting  up  do  not  entitle  them  to  rank 
higher  than  second-class,  many  of  them  (e.g,  in  Bloomsbury)  may 
he  safely  recommended  to  the  traveller  of  moderate  requirements. — 
The  so-called  Residential  Hotels  are  usually  large  blocks  (^Mansions*) 
of  separate  suites  or  flats,  let  furnished  with  attendance,  and  fre- 
quently have  restaurants  for  the  convenience  of  tenants. 

Charges  for  rooms  vary  according  to  the  floor ;  and  it  is  advisable 
to  make  enquiry  as  to  prices  on  or  soon  after  arrival.  When  a  pro- 
longed stay  is  contemplated,  the  bill  should  be  called  for  every  two 
or  three  days,  in  order  that  errors,  whether  accidental  or  designed, 
may  be  detected.  In  some  hotels  the  day  of  departure  is  charged 
for,  unless  the  rooms  are  given  up  by  noon.  Many  hotels  receive 
visitors  en  pension^  at  rates  depending  on  whether  it  is  or  is  not  the 
Season.  The  prices  of  rooms  are  raised  at  many  of  the  West  End  hotels 
during  the  Season  (p.  i).  —  The  charges  for  'attendance'  and  *light' 
are  almost  invariably  included  in  the  price  of  the  room,  but  flres  in 
bedrooms  or  private  sitting-rooms  are  an  extra.  It  is  usual  to  give 
the  'boots'  (i.e.  boot-cleaner  and  errand  man)  a  small  fee  on  leav- 
ing, and  the  waiter  who  has  specially  attended  to  the  traveller  also 
expects  a  shilling  or  two.  The  excellent  American  custom  of  paying 
the  bill  at  the  office  instead  of  through  a  waiter  has  not  yet  become 
usual  in  London.  —  Smoking  is  prohibited  except  in  the  Lounge, 
the  Smoking  Room,  and  the  Billiard  Room.  Refreshments  ordered 
in  either  of  the  two  last  are  generally  paid  for  on  the  spot.  —  In 
the  more  old-fashioned  houses  the  dining-room  is  called  the  Coffee 
Room.  —  Wine  is  generally  expensive  at  London  hotels;  but  the 
expectation  that  guests  should  order  it  'for  the  good  of  the  house' 
has  fallen  largely  into  abeyance.  —  Attendance  at  table-d'h6te  is 
not  obligatory.  —  English  newspapers  are  provided  at  every  hotel, 
but  foreign  journals  are  rarely  met  with. 

The  ordinary  charges  at  London  hotels  vary  from  about  S$.  a  day  in 
the  least  pretentious  houses  up  to  20«.  and  upwards  in  the  most  expensive. 
The  prices  given  below  will  enable  the  traveller  to  form  an  approximate 
idea  of  the  expense  at  the  hotel  he  selects.  The  charge  for  room  is  that 
for  an  ordinary  room  occupied  by  a  single  person.  The  charge  for  two 
persons  occupying  the  same  room  is  often  proportionately-much  less,  while 
that  for  the  best  bedrooms  may  be  much  higher.  Private  sitting-rooms 
and  suites  of  rooms  are  usually  expensive.  The  ordinary  charge  for  a  hot 
bath  is  i«.,  for  a  cold  sponge-bath  in  bedroom  6(2. ;  in  some  instances  baths 
are  now  included  in  the  charge  for  bedrooms  or  for  pension.  The  servants 
of  visitors  are  accommodated  at  cheaper  rates.  Many  hotels  refuse  to 
receive  dogs,  but  provide  for  their  keep  in  suitable  quarters  for  1«.  Bd.- 
Ss.  per  day.  The  prices  here  given  for  breakfast,  luncheon,  and  dinner 
generally  refer  to  table- d'hote  meals.  The  average  d  la  carte  charges  for 
breakfast  are  2j.-3<.  6d.,  for  luncheon  2i.  6d.-5«.,  for  dinner  from  3<.  upwards. 
An  extra  charge  is  made  for  all  meals  served  in  bedrooms.  Tension'  as 
used  in  this  Handbook  includes  board,  lodging,  and  attendance,  while  ^room' 
(R.)  includes  attendance. 

The  following  attempt  to  arrange  the  hotels  of  London  in  geo- 
graphical groups  is  necessarily  based  on  somewhat  arbitrary  distinc- 


2.   HOTELS.  o 

tions,  but  will,  it  is  hoped,  nevertheless  prove  useful  to  the  visitor. 
Within  each  group  the  arrangement  is  made  as  far  as  possible  accord- 
ing to  tarifT.  The  most  expensive  houses  are  naturally  those  in  the 
fashionable  quarters  of  the  West  End,  while  those  in  such  districts 
as  Bloomsbury  and  the  City  are  considerably  cheaper. 

Almost  all  the  great  terminal  railway-stations  of  London  are 
provided  with  large  hotels,  often  belonging  to  the  railway-companies. 
These  hotels,  which  are  specially  convenient  for  passing  travellers, 
are  noted  in  their  proper  places  in  the  following  lists. 

a.  Hotels  in  or  near  Fiecadilly. 

The  hotels  in  tills  group  are  conyenient  for  those  who  wish  to  be 
near  St.  James's  Park,  the  Green  Park,  Hyde  Park  (B.  end),  the  principal 
clubs,  St.  James's  Palace,  Marlborough  House,  Burlington  House  (Royal 
Academy),  and  the  most  fashionable  shops.  They  include  some  of  the 
most  aristocratic  and  expensive  hostelries  in  London. 

*RU%  Hotel  (PI.  R,  22;  /F),  at  the  corner  of  Piccadilly  and  Ar- 
lington St.,  with  view  of  the  Green  Park,  a  sumptuous  establish- 
ment with  winter- garden  and  restaurant,  180  R.  from  10«.  6d.  (incl. 
bath),  B.  2«.,  It  la  carte  luncheon  6^.,  other  meals  served  in  the 
restaurant  or  private  apartments.  — -  ^Claridge^s  (PI.  R,  19;  /), 
Brook  St.,  Grosvenor  Square,  long  the  leading  West  End  hotel, 
rebuilt  in  1898  and  luxuriously  fitted  up,  with  restaurant,  R.  (incl. 
bath)  from  10«.  6d.,  L.  5«.,  D.  8a.  6d.  —  PtecadiUy^  another  luxu- 
rious establishment  (opened  in  1908),  with  entrances  from  Picca- 
dilly and  Regent  St.,  R.  from  Ss.  6d.  (incl.  bath),  B.  2s.-38.  6d., 
other  meals  in  the  restaurant  (p.  12)  or  private  rooms.  —  Berkeley^ 
77  Piccadilly,  at  the  comer  of  Berkeley  St.,  with  a  frequented  restau- 
rant, R.  from  8«.  6<i.,  B.  2-4«.,  L.  4-6«.,  D.  10a.  —  *Carlton  (PJ.  R, 
26;  /F),  at  the  comer  of  the  Haymarket  and  Pall  Mall,  another 
handsome  establishment  belonging  to  the  Ritz  Co.,  with  restaurant 
(p.  12),  R.  from  7a.  6d.,  L.  5a.,  D.  7a.  6d.,  S.  5*. 

To  the  N.  of  Piccadilly:  —  Cohurgj  CarlosPlace,  Grosvenor  Place, 
R.  from  6a.,  D.  7a.  6d. ;  Long's  Hotel,  16  New  Bond  St.,  R.  from  6a., 
D.  7a.  6d;  BtLckland^Sj  43  Brook  St.,  a  long-established  family  hotel, 
R.  from  6a.,  B.  from  2a.,  L.  from  3a.,  D.  5-7a.;  SackvilU  Hotel, 
28  Sackville  St.,  near  Regent  St.,  R.  from  4a.  6d.,  L.  3a. 6d.,  D.  5s.  6d.  5 
Burlington,  19  Cork  St.,  R.  from  4a.  Qd.,  D.  6a.,  pens.  16a.  (more  in 
the  Season).  —  Almondts,  6  Clifford  St.  —  ^Browns  ^  8t,  George's 
Hotel,  Albemarle  St.  and  Dover  St.,  quiet,  good  cuisine,  R.  from 
6a.,  D.  6a.;  Carter's,  14  Albemarle  St.,  R.  from  3a.,  D.  5-7a.;  York 
^  Brunswick,  9  Albemarle  St.,  R.  from  5a.,  D.  48.  6d.  —  Fleming's 
Hotel,  41  Clarges  St.  (no  public  rooms),  suite  of  rooms  for  1-3  pers. 
from  15a.  per  day,  in  the  Season  from  30a.;  Hdtel  Curnon,  Curzon  St., 
Mayfair,  R.  (incl.  bath)  from  6a.,  D.  5a.  6d,  pens,  from  12a.  6d. 

To  the  S.  of  Piccadilly:  —  In  Jermyn  Street,  parallel  to  Picca- 
dilly: ♦PWncea*  Hotel  (No.  36),  a  high-class  family  hotel,  R.  from  6a., 

1* 


4  2.  HOTELS. 

L.  49.  Qd,y  D.  Is,  6(2.  or  10«.  6d.  (restaurant,  see  p.  12);  Jules 
(No.  86),  R.  from  6».  6(i.,  with  restaurant  (p.  12) ;  Cavendish  (No.  81), 
family  hotel,  well  spoken  of,  R.  from  5«.  6d.,  D.  from  5s.,  cheaper 
in  winter;  MorleTa  (No.  102),  R.  from  3«.  6d.,  D.  3«.  6d.,  pens,  from 
10«.  6d.,  with  restaurant;  BritUh  (No.  82),  Cox's  (No.  66),  for  single 
gentlemen.  —  Hdtel  DUudonmS^  11  Ryder  St.,  St.  James's  (French), 
R.  flfom  6».  6d.,  L.3«.  6d.,  D.  6-8«. 

Pbivatb  HoTBLS.  8helvey\  6  Olarges  St.,  B.2«.6d.,  L.3«.6d., 
D.  5«.,  sitting-room,  bedroom,  and  dressing-room  from  7^  7«.  a 
week.  —  Payne's,  12  Park  Place,  R.  6».,  B.  2«.,  L.  3«.,  D.  5».  (L.  &  D. 
served  only  to  visitors  with  private  sitting  room) ;  Earle's  Hotelj 
Grosvenor  St. ;  Otiery  House,  10  Bolton  St.,  suites  8-15  guineas  per 
week,  meals  in  apartments  as  ordered. 

b.  Hotels  in  or  near  Charing  Cross  and  the  Strand. 

The  objects  of  interest  in  this  district  include  the  National  Gallery, 
the  National  Portrait  Gallery,  and  most  of  the  theatres. 

*H6UI  Cecil  (PI.  R,  30 ;  //),  an  enormous  house  overlooking  the 
Victoria  Embankment  and  the  Thames,  entered  from  the  Strand 
(Nob.  76-88),  with  over  1000  bedrooms,  200  private  sitting  rooms, 
large  ball  and  concert  rooms,  restaurant  (p.  12),  terrace,  railway,  type- 
writing, and  theatre  offices,  etc. ;  R.  from  6«.,  B.  from  2«.,  L.  3s.  6d., 
D.  6«.  —  *8avoy  Hotel,  another  large  hotel  on  the  Embankment,  ad- 
joining the  Cecil,  entered  from  Savoy  Court,  Strand;  R.  (incl. 
bath)  from  9«.  6d.,  B.  from  2«.,  L.  5«.,  D.  7«.  6c{.;  restaurant,  see 
p.  12.  —  Waldorf  (FL  R,  31;  //),  Aldwych,  Strand,  a  new  palatial 
edifice,  with  400  bedrooms,  176  bath-rooms,  a  palm-court,  restaur- 
ant, and  grill-room  (p.  13),  R.  from  4s.  Qd.,  B.  25.-3s.  6d.,  luncheon 
Ss,  6d.,  D.  5s.  —  Hdtel  MStropole  (650  bedrooms),  H6UI  Victoria 
(500  beds ;  orchestra  during  meals),  and  Orand  Hdtel  (500  beds ; 
facing  Trafalgar  Square;  restaurant,  p.  13),  three  large  and  hand- 
somely furnished  hotels  in  Northumberland  Avenue,  belonging  to 
the  same  company,  and  with  equipments  similar  to  those  of  the 
Hdtel  Cecil  (see  above);  R.  from  ba.  or  65.,  B.  28.-3«.  6d.,  L.  3«.  6d., 
D.  5-68. 

Charing  Cross  HoteL  at  Charing  Cross  Railway  Station,  with  350 
rooms,  restaurant  (p.  13),  and  lifts ;  R.  from  As.  6d.,  B.  2«.  6d.  -  3«.  6d., 
D.  from  5«.  —  *Morley8  Hotel,  Trafalgar  Square,  a  comfortable 
family  hotel  with  100  beds ;  R.  from  4«.  Sd,,  D.  from  38.  6d.,  pension 
from  138.,  without  luncheon  lis.  6d.  —  Oolden  Cross  Hotel,  352 
Strand,  opposite  Charing  Cross  Station,  R.  6s.,  B.  38.  6(2.,  D.  58. 

The  streets  leading  from  the  Strand  to  the  Thames  (PI.  R,  31 ;  IT) 
contain  a  number  of  quiet  and  comfortable  hotels  with  reasonable 
charges.  Among  these  are  the  following :  —  Arundel  Hotel,  8  Arun- 
del St.,  on  the  Embankment,  R.  &  B.  from  68.,  D.  38.,  pens,  from 
108. ;  Howard  (100  beds),  Norfolk  St.,  R.  &  B.  from  68. 6rf.,  D.  38. 6d., 
pens,  from  108.  6d.,  well  spoken  of;  Loudon,  24  Surrey  St.,  R.  &  B. 


2.  HOTELS.  5 

from  Gs.,  D.  3«.  6d.,  pens,  from  9j.  6d.;  Norfolk^  30  Suney  St., 
R.  &  B.  from  6«.,  pens,  from  9a.  6d.;  Ade^^  John  St.,  R.  from 
3i.  Gd.,  pens,  from  32.  3«.  per  week. 

In  Govent  Garden,  to  the  N.  of  the  Strand :  ^  Tavistock  (200 
heds),  Piazza,  Govent  Oarden,  for  gentlemen  only,  R.  &  B.  Is.  6d., 
L.  from  2«.  6(i.,  D.  from  3«.,  good  wines;  Hummuma^  R.  &  B.  5«.  Gd., 
also  in  the  Piazza;  Covent  Oarden^  at  the  comer  of  Sonthampton  St., 
R.  from  6«.,  D.  Ss,  6d.,  pens,  from  10s. 

In  or  near  Leicester  Sqnare,  a  little  to  the  N.  of  Gharing  Gross, 
a  quarter  much  frequented  by  French  visitors:  —  Queen's  Hotel, 
Leicester  Square,  R.  from  6s.,  L.  3s.  6d.,  D.  5s.  (with  band);  Hdtel 
Suisse  (Swiss  Hotel),  53  Old  Gompton  St.,  unpretending,  well  spoken 
of,  R.  from  2t.  6(i.,  B.  from  la. 

Tbucpbbanoe  Hotbl.  Buckinghamy  28  Buckingham  St,  leading 
from  the  Strand,  R.  A  B.  from  5s.,  pens,  from  9s.  Qd, 

The  stranger  is  cautioned  against  going  to  any  unrecomm ended  house 
near  Leicester  Square,  as  there  are  several  houses  of  doubtful  reputation 
in  this  locality. 

0,  Hotels  in  or  near  Westminster. 

Convenient  for  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  the  Ministerial  Offices,  West- 
minster Abbey,  the  Tate  Gallery,  St.  James's  Park,  Lambeth  Palace  (across  the 
river),  Victoria  Station,  the  United  States  Embassy,  and  the  offices  of  the  High 
Commissioner  of  Canada  and  the  Agents  General  of  the  chief  British  Colonies. 

Westminster  Palace  Hotel  (PI.  R,  25,  IV;  see  p.  248),  Victoria 
St.,  opposite  Westminster  Abbey,  with  300  beds,  much  frequented 
by  members  of  parliament,  R.  from  3s.  6(2.,  B.  3s.  6c{.,  L.  3s.  6<2., 
D.  5s.,  pens,  from  12s.  6d.;  *H6Ul  Windsor  (PI.  R,  25;  IV),  also  in 
Victoria  St.,  with  212  beds,  R.  from  4s.  6d.,  D.  5s.,  pens,  from  12s. 

—  Buckingham  Palace  Hotel  (PI.  R,  21;  IV),  Buckingham  Gate,  a 
large  hotel,  R.  from  5«.  6d.,  L.  3s.  6d.,  D.  6«.,  pens,  from  13s.  6d.  — 
*Orosvenor  Hotel  (PI.  R,  21 ;  IF),  at  Victoria  Station,  a  large  and 
handsomely  equipped  house,  R.  from  bs.  6d.,  B.  3^.  Qd.,  L.  4^.,  D.  Qs, 

—  St,  Ermin's  Hotd,  Caxton  St.,  R.  from  5s.,  L.  3s.,  D.  4s.,  pens, 
from  10s.  6d.  —  WUion  Hotel,  Vauxhall  Bridge  Road  (entrance 
32  Wilton  Road),  R.  from  3s.  U.,  D.  3s. 

d.  Hotels  in  Kensington  and  Neighbourhood. 

The  objects  of  interest  in  this  district  include  Hyde  Park  (W.  end), 
Kensington  Gardens  and  Palace,  the  Albert  Hall,  South  Kensington  Museum, 
the  Natural  History  Museum,  and  the  Imperial  Institute. 

Hyde  Park  Hotel,  Albert  Gate  (PI.  R,  17,  18),  with  view  of  the 
Park  from  the  rear,  R.  (incl.  bath)  from  5s.  6d.,  B.  3s.  6d.,  L.  3s.  6d., 
D.  6s.  —  *Hans  Crescent  Hotel,  Hans  Grescent,  Sloane  St.  (PI.  R,  13), 
R.  from  6s.,  D.  6s.,  pens.  16s.  —  *Cadogan  Hotel,  75  Sloane  St., 
R.  (incl.  bath)  from  5s.,  B.  3s.,  L.  3s.  6(2.,  D.  6s.;  Alexandra  HoUl, 
16-21  St.  George's  Place,  Hyde  Park  Gomer  (PI.  R,  17),  R.  from  9s., 
L.  3s.  6d.,  D.  6s.  6d.  —  South  Kensington  Hotel,  Queen's  Gate  Terrace 


6  2.   HOTELS. 

(PI.  R,  5),  200  bediooms,  B.  from  5s.,  D.  5«.,  pens,  from  12a.,  in  the 
Season  from  15«.  —  *  Royal  Palace  Hotel  (350  beds),  Kensington 
High  St.,  overlooking  the  grounds  of  Kensington  Palace  (PI.  R,  6) ; 
R.  from  4«.  6rf.,  B.  2-3».,  L.  3a.,  D.  5«.  —  De  Vert  HoUl,  De  Vere 
Gardens  (PI.  R,  5),  R.  from  6a.  6d.,  L.  3a.,  D.  5a.,  pens,  from  12a.  j 
PHnee  of  Wales  Hotel,  same  street,  No.  16,  R.  from  6a.  6d.,  L.  2a. 
Gd.,  D.  5a.,  pens,  from  10a.  6d. 

Great  Western  Hotel,  Paddington  Station  (PI.  R,  11),  a  railway 
terminal  hotel,  R.  from  4a.,  B.  3a.,  D.  5a.  —  Norfolk  Square  Hotel, 
25  London  St.,  opposite  Paddington  Station,  R.  &  B.  from  6a.,  D.4a. 

♦Battei/'a  Hotel,  opposite  Gloucester  Road  Station  (PI.  G,  5),  with 
about  250  beds,  R.  from  5a.,  B.  3a.,  D.  5a.,  pens,  from  12a.  —  Norfolk, 
Harrington  Road  (Pi.  G,  5),  R.  from  5a.,  D.  3a.  6d.,  pens,  from  9a.  — 
*Norri$'8  Hotel,  48-53  Russell  Road,  Kensington,  facing  Addison 
Road  Station  (beyond  PI.  G,  1),  a  family  hotel,  R.  from  3a.  6d.,  D.  3a., 
pens,  from  2i.  12a.  6d.  per  week.  —  Bolton  Mansions,  11  Bolton 
Gardens  West  (PI.  G,  5),  R.  &  B.  5a.  6d.,  L.  2a.  6d.,  D.  3a.  6d.,  pens, 
from  7a.  —  Barkston  Gardens  Hotel,  40  Barkston  Gardens,  South 
Kensington.  —  Hotel  Vandyke,  51  Cromwell  Road. 

Pbivatb  Hotels.  Broadwalk,  9-13  De  Vere  Gardens,  R.  from 
48.  6d.,  L.  2a.  6d.,  D.  4a.,  pens,  from  10a.  6d.;  Hdtel  ImpSrial, 
121  Queen's  Gate,  R.  from  4a.,  L.  2a.,  D.  3a.  6d.,  pens,  from  45a.  6d. 
per  week ;  Private  Residential  Hotel,  37  Queen's  Gate  Gardens,  pens.  6a.; 
Worcester  House,  corner  of  Cromwell  Road  and  Courtfleld  Gardens. 

e.  Hotels  between  Oxford  Street  and  Regent's  Park. 

The  Wallace  Gallery  is  in  this  district. 

*H6tel  Great  Central,  Marylebone  Station  (PI.  II,  16),  railway 
hotel  (700  beds),  with  winter-garden;  R.  from  4a.  6d.,  B.  2a.-3a. 
6rf.,  L.  3s.  6d.,  D.  5a.,  pens,  by  arrangement.  —  ^Langham  Hotel 
(PI.  R,  24;  i),  Portland  Place,  a  large  and  centrally  situated  house, 
with  450  beds,  electric  light,  lifts,  etc.;  R.  from  4a.  6d.,  B.  3a., 
L.  2a.  6d.-4a.,  D.  5a.,  pens.  15a.  —  Portland  Hotel,  Great  Portland 
St.,  with  lift  and  electric  light,  R.  from  4a.,  B.  from  la.  6rf.,  L.  from 
2a.,  D.  3a.  6d.,  pens,  from  10a.  6d.  —  Marshall  Thompson's  Hotel, 
28  Cavendish  Square.  —  Ford's  Hotel,  14  Manchester  St.,  Manchester 
Square  (PI.  R,  19 ;  /),  R.  from  5a.,  L.  2a.  6d.,  D.  4a.  6d.,  an  old  house 
and  well  spoken  of.  —  Durrant's  Hotel,  Manchester  Square.  — 
Hdtel  York,  Berners  St.,  well  spoken  of.  —  Portman  Hotel,  26  Port- 
man  St.,  pens.  6a.  6d.-10s.  6d.  —  Clifton  Hotel,  Welbeck  St.,  pens. 
10a.  6d.  —  Tudor  Hotel,  87  Oxford  St.,  R.  from  4a.  Qd.,  B.  2a.' 
6rf.,  L.  2a.  6rf.,  D.  3a.  6d.,  pens,  from  10a.  6d. 

Pbivatb  Hotels.  Dysart  Hotel,  Henrietta  St.,  Cavendish  Square, 
R.  (incl.  bath)  from  5a.,  B.  2a.  6d.,  L.  3a.,  D.  5s.,  pens,  from  10a. 
6d.;  Henrietta  Mansions,  same  street,  R.  from  3s.  6d.,  B.  or  L.  28., 
D.  3a.  6d. 


2.   HOTELS.  7 

f.  Hotels  in  Bloomsbnry  and  Neighbourhood. 
This  district  includes  the  l&rge  terminal  hotels  of  the  northern  railways 
and  an  immense  number  of  small  unpretending  hotels  and  boarding-houses 
at  moderate  prices.    Its  centre  of  interest  is  the  British  Museum. 

*H6tel  Bussell,  Rassell  Square,  corner  of  Qailford  St. ,  a  hnge 
and  elaborately  equipped  house,  with  500  rooms,  restaurant  (p.  14), 
a  winter-garden,  an  orchestra,  railway,  type-writing,  and  theatre 
offices,  etc.;  R.  from  4*.  6d.,  B.  from  2«.,  L.  3«.  6d.,  D.  6a.  —  ♦JtfW- 
land  Grand  HoUl,  St.  Pancras  Station  (PI.  B,  28),  a  handsome  Gothic 
building  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  and  one  of  the  best  of  the  large  terminal 
hotels,  with  400  beds;  R.  from  4«.,  B.  3«.,  D.  6«.,  pens,  from  12».  — 
Euston  Hotel,  Euston  Station  (PI.  B,  24,  28),  with  300  rooms,  R. 
from  58.,  B.  3a.,  L.  3a.,  D.  5a.  —  Oreat  Northern  Railway  Hotel, 
King's  Cross  Station  (PI.  B,  31,  32),  R.  from  4a.,  D.  from  3a.  — 
Imperialy  Russell  Square,  with  350  rooms  and  winter-garden,  new, 
R.  &  B.  from  5s.,  L.  2a.,  D.  3s.;  *Bedford  Hotel,  93  Southampton 
Row,  R.  from  3a.,  L.  2a.,  D.  3a.,  pens.  8a. 

In  High  Holborn  (PI.  R,  32;  II):  Fir$t  Avenue  Hotel,  a  large 
hotel  (300  beds),  R.  from  5a.,  B.  3a.,  L.  2a.  6d.,  D.  in  the  griU-room 
2s.  6d.,  in  the  dining-room  5a.,  well  spoken  of;  Inn»  of  Court  Hotel, 
another  large  house,  with  a  second  entrance  in  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields, 
R.  from  4a.,  B.  3s.,  L.  2a.  6d.,  D.  3a.  6rf.  and  5a.,  pens,  from  10a.  6d. 

In  Tottenham  Court  Road  (PI.  R,  28):  The  Horseshoe  (No.  264; 
R.  from  3a.,  L.  2a.,  D.  2a.  U.)  and  the  Bedford  Head  (No.  235; 
R.  &  B.  5,  D.  3a.),  two  commercial  houses,  suited  for  gentlemen. 

Pmvatb  Hotels.  AvondaU  House,  1  Tavistock  Place,  R.  from 
4s.  6d.,  D.  2s.  6d.,  pens,  from  1L  2a.  per  week;  Woodstock  House, 

8  Euston  Square,  R.  &B.  from  4s.,  D.  2s.  6d.,  pens,  from  6s.  6d., 
well  spoken  of. 

Temperance  Hotels.  West  Central  Hotel,  75-81  and  97-105 
Southampton  Row  (PI.  R,  32;  //),  an  excellent  temperance  hotel, 
R.  from  2a.  6rf.,  B.  2s.,  D.  38.,  pens.  8a.;  KingsUy  Hotel,  36  Hart  St., 
Bloomsbury  Square,  R.  3s.-5s.  6d.,  pens.  8s.  6d.-108.  6d.,  Thackeray 
HoUl,  Great  Russell  St.,  R.  3s.  6d.-4a.,  B.  2a.,  L.  2a.,  D.  3s.,  pens, 
(without  luncheon)  from  8s.  6d.,  two  comfortable  hotels  belonging 
to  the  same  proprietor.  —  University  Hotel,  Endsleigh  Gardens, 
new;  Ivanhoe  Hotel,  Bloomsbury  St.,  KeyUworth  Hotel,  Great 
Russell  St.,  two  new  and  well -equipped  houses;    Cobum  Hotel, 

9  Endsleigh  Gardens,  R.  from  3s.,  B.  2s.,  D.  2a.  6d.,  pens,  from 
7a.  6d.;  Wobum  House  Hotel,  12  Upper  Woburn  Place,  R.  &  B.  from 
6a.,  L.  la.  6rf.,  D.  2a.  6d.,  pens,  from  7s.  (luncheon  extra);  Blooms- 
bury Hotel,  31  Queen  Square,  R.  from  2,  pens,  from  8s.;  Wild's  Hotel, 
70  Euston  Square,  R.  from  2a.  6d.,  B.  2a.  —  Mamis  Hotel,  48  Tor- 
rington  Square  (PI.  R,  28),  largely  patronized  by  vegetarians,  R.  &  B. 
from  3a.  6rf.  —  Morton  HoUl,  2  Woburn  Place,  R.  from  3s.,  D.  2s.  6d., 
pens,  from  8s.  —  Suttie's  Temperance  Hotel,  24-27  Bedford  Place, 
Russell  Square,  R.  from  2s.  6d.,  B.  2s.,  D.  2a.  Qd.,  pens,  from  6s. 


8  2.  BOARDING  HOUSES. 

g.  Hotels  in  the  City. 

These  hotels  are  convenient  for  those  visiting  London  on  business,  while 
the  City  also  contains  numerous  objects  of  wider  interest  such  as  8t.  Paurs 
Cathedral,  the  Guildhall,  the  Tower,  St.  Bartholomew's,  and  the  Charter- 
house. The  Fleet  Street  hotels  are  near  the  Inns  of  Court  and  the  Law  Courts. 

*De  Keyicr's  Royal  Hotel  (Pi.  R,  35;  ii),  weU  sitnated  on  the 
Victoria  Embankment,  Blackfriars,  and  largely  patronized  by  Ger- 
mans, Frenchmen,  and  other  foreigners;  400  rooms,  large  marble 
hall  and  lounge;  pens.  12«.  6c{.-25s.  per  day. 

Cannon  Street  HoUl  (Pi.  R,  39;  Ul).  —  ^Holbom  Viaduct  Hotel 
(PI.  R,  36;  ii),  R.  from  5«.,  B.  3».,  L.  3«.  6rf.,  D.  6*.,  pens,  from  12«. 
—  *Oreat  Eastern  HoUl  (PI.  R,  44;  ///),  R.  from  As.  6d.,  B.  3»., 
L.  3s.  6d.,  D.  5<.   These  are  large  railway  hotels. 

Manchester  Hotely  186-145  Aldersgate  St,  R.  &  B.  from  5«.  6d., 
L.  2«.  6d.,  D.  3«.  6d.  —  KUMs  HoUl,  38  Finsbury  Square,  R.  from  28., 
D.  3«.  6d.,  frequented  by  Germans,  well  spoken  of;  Backer's  Hotel, 
26  Finabury  Square,  R.  3-4«.,  B.  2s.,  D.  3s.,  a  favourite  foreign 
hotel;  Bohn's,  6  Circus,  Minories,  unpretending. 

In  or  near  Flbbt  Stbbbt:  —  Anderton's  Hotel,  162  Fleet 
St.,  a  favourite  resort  of  many  dining  clubs  and  masonic  lodges, 
R.  &  B.  from  5«.  6d.,  L.  2s.,  D.  3«.  6d.,  pens,  from  10s.  6d.;  Peele's 
HoUl,  177  Fleet  St.,  R.  3«.  6d.,  R.  &  B.  5«.;  *8alisbury  Hotel, 
Salisbury  Square,  Fleet  St.,  R.  from  4«.,  B.  3s.,  L.  3s.,  D.  3«.  6d. 

In  Aldgatb  :  Three  Nuns  HoUl,  R.  3s.  6d. 

In  Chabtbrhodsb  SauAEB  (Pi.  R,  40;  //),  quietly  situated: 
CharUrhouse  Hotel,  R.  from  3s.  6d.,  incl.  bath,  L.  Is.  6d.,  D.  2«.  6d. 

Tbmpebancb  Hotels.  Devonshire  House,  12  Bishopsgate  With- 
out, near  Liverpool  Street  Station  (PL  R,  44;  III),  R.  from  3s.  6d., 
B.  2s.  6d.,  L.  2s.  6d.,  D.  3s.  —  WUd^s,  30-40  Ludgate  Hill  (PL  R, 
35;  1/),  R.  from2«.6d.,  B.  2s. 

h.  Hotels  to  the  South  of  the  Thames. 

There  are  few  hotels  of  importance  on  this  side  of  the  river,  and 
neither  London  Bridge  Station  nor  Waterloo  Station  is  provided  with  a 
terminal  hotel.  Fair  accommodation  may  be  obtained  at  the  houses  men- 
tioned below. 

Bridge  House  Hotel,  4  Borough  High  St.,  London  Bridge  (PL  R, 
42;  III),  R.  from  4«.  6d.,  B.  2«.-38.  6d.,  D.  2s.  6d.-5s.  —  Yorh 
Hotel,  comer  of  Waterloo  Road  and  York  Road,  close  to  Waterloo 
Station  (PL  R,  30),  R.  from  3s.  6d.,  R.  &  B.  from  4».  6d. ;  Waterloo 
HoUl,  2-16  York  Road,  Waterloo,  R.  from  3«.  6d.  —  George  Inn  Hotel, 
77  Borough  High  St.,  an  old  coaching  Inn,  quite  unpretending, 
R.  2s.  9d.,  B.  ls.-2s.  —  ^Queen's  HoUl,  Upper  Norwood,  pleasantly 
situated  near  the  Crystal  Palace,  with  large  gardens,  R.  from  4s.  6d., 
D.  5s.,  pens,  from  9s.  In  winter  and  10s.  6d.  in  summer. 

Boarding  Houses.  The  visitor  will  generally  find  It  more 
economical  to  live  In  a  Boarding  House  than  at  a  hotel.  For  a  sum 
of  30-40s.  per  week  or  upwards  he  will  receive  lodging,  breakfast. 


2.  PRIVATE  APARTMENTS.  9 

luncheon,  dinner,  and  tea,  taking  his  meals  and  sharing  the  sitting 
rooms  with  the  other  guests.  Lights,  fires,  boot-cleaning,  baths,  and 
luncheon  are  frequently  'extras'  and  should  be  arranged  for.  It  is 
somewhat  more  difficult  to  give  a  trustworthy  selection  of  boarding- 
houses  than  of  hotels,  but  the  Editor  has  reason  to  belioTe  that  those 
noted  below  are  at  present  (1908)  fairly  comfortable. 

In  Kensington  and  Barl's  Court:  Mitt  Edwards^  44  Longridge  Bead, 
1/.  7*.  to  21.  2*.  per  week;  Rutland  Private  Hotels  29  De  Vere  Gardens,  from 
7*.  e<l.  per  day  or  42«.  per  week  \  Mrt.  MeDovoell^  6  Templeton  Place,  from 
It.  6d.  per  day  or  86«.  per  week ;  Mrt.  Blakty  5  Philbeach  Gardens,  from 
90*.  per  week-,  Lo/iut,  21  Fopstone  Boad,  Qt.  Qd.-iOs.  per  day,  11/2*272  guineas 
per  week;  Mrt.  Jordan,  11  Fopstone  Boad,  from  21«.  per  week;  Mitt 
Hayward^  47  Warwick  Road,  from  %t.  per  day;  Mrt.  AtpinalL  253  Cromwell 
Boad;  Knaretborough Eoute.Go]hixgha.m  Place,  Cromwell  Road;  Mrt.  OerUng^ 
92  Belgrave  Road,  from  dOt.  per  week:  Mrt.  Brown,  4  Glazbury  Road, 
W.  Kensington,  from  it.  Qd.  per  day  or  26«.  per  week. 

In  Bayswater  and  Kottinq  Hill:  Mrt.  Daviet,  6  Lancaster  St.,  6«.  6d.- 
12«.  6<2.  per  day,  from  S6«.  per  week;  Mrt.  Oreenley,  68  Oxford  Terrace, 
from  It.  Qd.  per  day  or  42<.  per  week;  Mrt.  OratUmy  8  Talbot  Boad,  from 
bt.  6d.  per  day  or  25t.  per  week;  Mrt.  Uther,  51  Blenheim  Crescent,  Lad- 
broke  Grove;  Jlcfiester  Mantiont,  1-6  Ilchester  Gardens;  Mrt.  Jetley^  Mitt 
Walker,  4  and  12  Kensington  Gardens  Square;  Jaeoht,  41  Linden  Gardens, 
from  S0«.  per  week;  Mitt  Oreyy  40  Colville  Terrace,  from  bt.  per  day  or 
31«.  6d.  per  week;  Mitt  FiOden,  16  Prince's  Sauare;  Mrt.  Band,  71  Elgin 
Crescent,  28«.-35«.  per  week;  Beavfort  Hottte,  61  Elgin  Crescent,  from  6*. 
per  day  or  31».  6d.  per  week. 

Between  Oxford  St.  and  Reobnt's  Park:  Mrt.  Battle,  32  Kottingbam 
Place,  from  63«.  per  week;  Sedcole,  10  Duchess  St.,  7-9*.  per  day,  21.  2t.- 
31.  13*.  6d.  per  week;  Mrt.  Davey,  18  Granville  Place,  from  42*.;  Mrt. 
Henderton,  21  Granville  Place,  from  35*. ;  Mitt  Robertton,  82  Dorset  Square, 
6-10*.  per  day;  Lurrant,  1  Cornwall  Terrace;  Otnaburgh Boute,  Osnaburgh 
St.,  BegenVs  Park,  7*.  6d.  per  day. 

Near  tbe  British  Musedm:  Mrt.  Ivent  Blue,  30  Queen  Square,  from 
30*.  per  week;  Mrt.  BoutteU,  11  Gordon  St.,  30-42*.  per  week.  In  Upper 
Woburn  Place:  No.  16.  Mittet  Wright,  6-8*.  per  day;  No.  16.  OUn  Devon, 
from  80*.  per  week;  No.  24.  MittJonet;  No.  7.  Mrt.  Bowen,  6-8*.;  No.  11.  Ray. 
In  Woburn  Place:  No.  11.  Mitt  Lott,  from  6*.  Qd.  per  day;  No.  8.  Mrs. 
Nesbm.  In  Upper  Bedford  Place:  Iso.i.  Mrt.Eenning;  No.  63.  Manhattan, 
5-10*.  per  day;  No.  52.  Thirlmere,  7-9*.  per  day.  In  Bedford  Place:  No.  10. 
Carlton  Mantion;  No.  30.  Mitt  Smith;  No.  21.  Mrt.  Snett,  6*.-7*.  6d.  per  day, 
42<.-52*.  Qd.  per  week ;  No.  36.  Mitt  Sparshatt,  from  6*.  Qd.  per  day,  31*.  6d.-63*. 
per  week;  No.  8.  Mrt.  Clark.  Mrt.  Waterton,  9  Montague  St.,  from  5*.  per 
day;  Bantha,  2  Upper  Montague  St.,  31*.  6d.-42*.  per  week;  Mrs.  Cory,  Mrt. 
Jamet,  23  and  67  Torrington  Square.  In  Gower  Street :  No.  36.  C.  Parkinton, 
from  35*.  per  week;  No.  80.  Mrs.  Mason,  from  6*.  6e;.  per  day  or  35*.  per 
week;  No.  78.  Mrs.  Salmon;  Nos.  158-32.  Mrt.  MUls,  30*.  per  week.  In 
Guilford  Street :  No.  38.  Mitt  Tantley,  26*.-35*.  per  week ;  No.  88.  Mitt  Graham, 
from  25*.  per  week ;  No.  57.  Mrt.  Toung,  from  6*.  per  day  or  30*.  per  week  ; 
No.  63.  Mrt.  Johntton;  No.  66.  Kent  Boute,  from  5*.  per  day;  No.  68.  Andrewt. 

Private  ApartmentSf  which  may  be  hired  by  the  week  in  any 
part  of  London,  admit  of  greater  Independence  on  the  part  of  the 
visitor  bent  on  seeing  the  sights.  Notices  of  ^Apartments',  or 
*  Furnished  Apartments\  are  generally  placed  in  the  windows  of 
houses  where  there  are  rooms  to  be  let  in  this  manner,  but  it  is 
safer  to  apply  to  the  nearest  house-agent.  Rooms  in  the  house  of 
a  respectable  private  family  may  often  be  obtained  by  advertise- 
ment or  otherwise,  and  are  generally  much  more  comfortable  than 


10  3.  RESTAURANTS. 

the  professed  lodging-houses.  The  dearest  apartments,  like  the 
dearest  hotels,  are  at  the  West  End,  where  the  eharges  vary  from 
21.  to  152.  a  week.  The  best  are  in  the  streets  leading  from  Pic- 
cadilly (Dover  Street,  Half  Moon  Street,  Glarges  Street,  Duke  Street, 
and  Sackyille  Street),  and  in  those  leading  out  of  St.  James's  Street, 
such  as  Jermyn  Street,  Bury  Street,  and  King  Street.  Good,  hut  less 
expensive  lodgings  may  also  be  obtained  in  the  less  central  parts  of 
the  West  End,  and  in  the  streets  diverging  from  Oxford  Street  and 
the  Strand.  In  Bloomsbury  (near  the  British  Museum)  the  average 
charge  for  one  room  is  15-219.  per  week,  and  breakfast  is  provided 
for  1«.  a  day.  Fire  and  light  are  usually  extras,  sometimes  also  boot- 
cleaning  and  washing  of  bed-linen.  It  is  advisable  to  have  a  clear 
understanding  on  all  these  points.  Still  cheaper  apartments,  vary- 
ing in  rent,  according  to  the  amenity  of  their  situation  and  their 
distance  from  the  centres  of  business  and  pleasure,  may  be  obtained 
in  the  suburbs.  The  traveller  who  desires  to  be  very  moderate  in  his 
expenditure  may  even  procure  a  bedroom  and  the  use  of  a  breakfast 
parlour  for  10«.  a  week.  The  preparation  of  plain  meals  is  generally 
understood  to  be  included  in  the  charge  for  lodgings,  but  the  sight- 
seer will  probably  require  nothing  but  breakfast  and  tea  in  his 
rooms,  taking  luncheon  and  dinner  at  one  of  the  pastrycooks'  shops, 
oyster-rooms,  or  restaurants  with  which  London  abounds. 

Though  attendance  is  generally  included  in  the  weekly  charge 
for  board  and  lodging,  the  servants  expect  a  small  weekly  gra- 
tuity, proportionate  to  the  trouble  given  them. 

Money  and  valuablea  should  be  securely  locked  up  in  the  visitor^s  own 
trunk,  as  the  drawers  and  cupboards  of  hotels  and  boarding-houses  are 
not  always  inviolable  receptacles.  Large  sums  of  money  and  objects  of 
great  value,  however,  had  better  be  entrusted  to  the  keeping  of  the  landlord 
of  the  house,  if  a  person  of  known  respectability,  or  to  a  banker  in  ex- 
change for  a  receipt.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  point  out  that  it  would  be 
unwise  to  make  such  a  deposit  with  the  landlord  of  private  apartments  or 
boarding-houses  that  have  not  been  specially  recommended. 

3.  Eestaurants.  Dining  Booms.  Oyster  Shops. 

English  cookery,  which  is  as  inordinately  praised  by  some  epi- 
cures and  bon-vivants  as  it  is  abused  by  others,  has  at  least  the 
merit  of  simplicity,  so  that  the  quality  of  the  food  one  is  eating 
is  not  so  apt  to  be  disguised  as  it  is  on  the  Continent.  Meat  and 
fish  of  every  kind  are  generally  excellent  in  quality  at  all  the  better 
restaurants,  but  the  visitor  accustomed  to  Continental  fare  may 
discern  a  falling  off  in  the  soups,  vegetables,  and  sweet  dishes.  At 
the  first-class  restaurants  the  cuisine  is  generally  French;  the 
charges  are  high,  but  everything  is  sure  to  be  good  of  its  kind. 

The  dinner  hour  at  the  best  restaurants  is  6-9  p.m.  At  less  pretentious 
establishments  dinner  'from  the  joint'  is  obtainable  from  12  or  1  to  5  or 
6  p.m.  Beer,  on  draught  or  in  bottle,  is  supplied  at  almost  all  the 
restaurants,  and  is  the  beverage  most  frequently  drunk.  The  Orill  Rooms 
are  devoted   to  chops,   steaks,   and  other  dishes  cooked  on  a  gridiron. 


3.   RESTAURANTS.  11 

Dinner  from  (he  Joint  is  a  plain  meal  of  meat,  potatoes,  vegetables,  and 
cheese.  At  many  of  the  following  restaurants,  particularly  those  in  the 
City,  there  are  luncheon-bars,  Where  firom  11  to  3  a  chop  or  small  plate 
of  hot  meat  with  bread  and  vegetables  may  be  obtained  for  6-8<l.  Customers 
usually  take  these  ^snacks*  standing  at  the  bar.  In  dining  A  la  carte  at 
any  of  the  foreign  restaurants,  one  portion  will  often  be  found  sufficient 
for  two  persons.  In  ordering  'suppers  after  the  theatre'  it  should  be  re- 
membered that  restaurants  close  not  later  than  12.90  a.m.  (on  Bat.  at 
midnight;  on  Sun.  at  11  p.m.).  A  small  fee  for  attendance  is  often  made; 
and  at  the  more  fashionable  restaurants  a  charge  of  from  Sd.  to  is,  for 
Hable-money^  or  the  'oouvert'  must  generally  be  added  to  the  prices  as 
given  below. 

Waiters  in  restaurants  expect  a  gratuity  of  about  Id.  for  every  shilling 
of  the  bill,  but  6d.  per  person  is  the  most  that  need  ever  be  given.  If  a 
charge  is  made  in  the  bill  for  attendance,  the  visitor  is  not  bound  to  give 
anything  additional,  though  even  in  this  case  it  is  customary  to  give  the 
waiter  a  trifle  for  himself. 

Many  of  the  larger  drapery  and  outfitting  establishments  (p.  67)  have 
Luncheon  and  Tea  Rooms,  which  are  convenient  for  ladies  while  shopping. 
The  bill-of-fare  is  usually  excellent  and  the  charges  moderate.  Similar 
refreshment  rooms  are  found  at  the  Civil  Service  and  Armp  A  Naxjf  Stores 
(p.  64).  Light  luncheons  are  to  be  had  in  the  caf^s  mentioned  on  p.  16,  as 
well  as  at  most  of  the  tea-rooms  (p.  16). 

Good  wine  in  England  is  expensive.  Claret  (Bordeaux)  and  Champagne 
are  most  frequently  drunk,  but  Fort^  Sherry^  and  Bock  (a  corruption  of 
Hochheimer,  used  as  a  generic  term  for  Bhenish  wines)  may  also  be 
obtained  at  most  of  the  restaurants.  Some  of  the  Italian  restaurants  have 
good  Italian  wines. 

The  traveller's  thirst  can  at  all  times  be  conveniently  quenched  at' a 
Public  House,  where  a  glass  of  bitter  beer,  ale,  stout,  or  ^half-and-half 
(i.  e.  ale  or  beer,  and  stout  or  porter,  mixed)  is  to  be  had  for  V/9-2d. 
(6<l.  or  Sd.  per  quart).  Good  German  Lager  Bier  (3-6d.  per  glass)  is  now  very 
generally  obtainable  at  the  larger  restaurants,  in  some  of  which  it  has 
almost  entirely  supplanted  the  heavier  English  ales.  Genuine  JHunich  Beer 
and  Bohemian  Beer  from  the  cask  may  be  obtained  at  the  German  restaurants 
mentioned  at  pp.  13  and  15 ;  also  German  sausages,  smoked  eel,  and  similar 
'whets'.  A  good  glass  of  wine  may  be  obtained  for  3-6d.,  a  pint  of  hock 
or  claret  for  8d.-l«.  6d.,  and  so  on  at  the  wine-stnres  of  the  Bodega  Co. 
(42  Glasshouse  St.,  Regent  St. ;  2  Bedford  St.,  Strand ;  5  Mill  St.,  Hanover 
Square;  15  Fleet  St.;  and  several  addresses  in  the  City).  A  few  taverns 
have  also  acquired  a  special  reputation  for  their  wines  (such  as  ShorVt, 
333  Strand,  809  High  Holborn,  48  St.  Paul's  Churchyard,  etc. ;  and  Benekey's, 
22  High  Holborn  and  35i  Strand),  but  as  a  rule  public  house  wine  cannot 
be  recommended. 

The  distinguishing  features  of  many  of  the  chief  restaurants  of  London 
are  described  in  'Dinners  and  Diners',  by  Lieut.-Col.  Newnham-Davit  (Grant 
Richards;  new  and  enlarged  edition,  1901). 

Eestaorants  of  the  Highest  Class. 

Most  of  the  fashionable  restaurants  serve  meals  at  fixed  prices 
but  in  all  cases  the  visitor  may,  if  he  prefer  it,  lunch,  dine,  or  sup 
ct  la  carte.  In  the  latter  case  the  portions  are  generally  so  ample 
that  one  portion  suffices  for  two  persons,  or  two  portions  for  three. 
The  waiter  is  ready  to  give  information  on  this  point.  At  these 
restaurants  evening  dress  is  usual.  In  the  Season  it  is  sometimes 
necessary  to  engage  a  table  beforehand. 

*H6Ul  Ritz  Restaurant  (p.  3),  Piccadilly,  L.  6s.,  D.  k  la  carte 
from  about  10«.  6d.;   *  Carlton  Hotel  (p.  3),  with  winter  garden, 


12  a.  RESTAUBANTS. 

S.  after  the  theatre  5«.;  Piceadilly  Hotel  (p.  3),  with  restaurant  (entr. 
Regent  St),  L.  bs,  6  d.,  S.  5«.,  grill-toom  (entr.  Piccadilly),  L.  4«., 
S.  3s.  6c{.,  and  open-air  terrace  (afternoon  tea);  *Claridgi^8  Hotel 
(p.  3),  orchestra  from  4  to  6  p.m  (afternoon  tea)  in  the  central  court 
and  from  7  to  9.30  p.m.  in  the  restaurant ;  *H6tel  Cecil  (p.  4),  L.  5»., 
D.  10«.  6d.,  S.  5«.,  with  orchestra;  *8avoy  Hotel  (p.  4),  L.  or  S.  6*., 
D.  Is,  6c{.,  both  with  open-air  terraces  and  yiews  of  the  river; 
*Princef  Restaurant,  190  Piccadilly,  L.  4a.  6d.,  D.  10«.  6d.,  S.  5s. 
(good  orchestra),  also  grill-room ;  *Berkeley  Hotel  (p.  3),  77  Picca- 
dilly, with  good  French  cuisine,  L.  4-5s.,  D.  10s.  6d.,  no  suppers 
served;  *DieudonnS,  11  Ryder  St.,  St.  James's,  L.  4s.,  D.  7s.  6d.- 
lOs.,  S.  4s.6d. 


Other  Restaurants  at  the  West  End. 

The  following  list  Includes  several  restaurants  nearly  if  not 
quite  as  good  as  some  of  those  ahove-mentioned.  In  most  cases 
meals  may  be  obtained  also  ^  la  caite  if  preferred.  Most  of  the 
large  hotels  admit  non-residents  to  their  tables-d'hdte. 

In  Piccadilly,  Regent  Street,  and  Vicinity.  *TrocaderOf 
at  the  comer  of  Great  Windmill  St.  and  Shaftesbury  Avenue,  L. 
or  S.  3s.  6d.,  D.  5s.,  7s.  6d.,  or  10s.  6d.;  'wine  table  d'hote'  (i.e. 
glasses  of  various  kinds  of  wine  to  accompany  dinner,  selected  by 
the  restaurant)  3s.  6d.,  5s.  6d.,  or  7s.  6d.  —  The  Criterion,  Pic- 
cadilly Circus,  adorned  with  decorative  paintings  by  eminent  artists, 
D.  in  the  Marble  Hall  (fine  mosaic  ceiling)  3s.  6d.  or  5s.,  L.  2s. 
6d.,  S.  2s.  6d.  or  3s.  6d.;  D.  in  the  East  Room,  10s.  6d.  or  a  la  carte; 
D.  from  the  joint  in  the  grill-room  2s.  Gd. ;  also  American  restaur- 
ant, caf^,  and  smoking-room  (p.  16;  entrance  in  Jermyn  St.).  — 
The  MonicOy  19  Shaftesbury  Avenue,  with  restaurant  on  the  first 
floor  (L.  3s.,  D.  5s.  and  7s.  6d.),  grill-room  (D.  2s.  6d.)  on  the 
ground-floor,  and  lager  beer  saloon  in  the  basement  (entrance  in 
Piccadilly  Circus). 

Hatchetfs,  67a  Piccadilly,  L.  2s.  6d.  or  4s.,  D.  7«.  6d.  or  10s.  6d.; 
H6tel  Curzon  Restaurant,  23  Bolton  St.,  L.  3s.  6d.,  D.  5«.  6d.; 
*Orand  CafS  Royal,  68  Regent  St.,  L.  2s.  6d.  (cafe^  and  4s. 
(restaurant),  other  meals  cl  lacarte ;  *Imperial,  60  Regent  St. ;  ♦  Verrey, 
229  Regent  St.,  French  cuisine  (bouillabaisse  to  order),  open  on 
Sun.  evenings;  Kiihn,  31  Hanover  St.,  Regent  St. ;  Old  Blue  Posts, 
13  Cork  St.,  L.  Is.  3d.-2s.,  D.  2«.  Qd.  and  3s. ;  Stewart,  50  Old  Bond 
St.;  Quadrant  (Ital.),  109  Regent  St.,  L.  or  S.  Is.  6d.,  D.  2s.  6d. 

The  Popular  Cafe,  201  Piccadilly,  L.  Is.  6d.  &  2s.  6d.,  D.  2s.  6d. 
&  3s.  6d.,  S.  Is.  6d.  (no  fees),  with  tea-room.  —  Blenheim  Cafe, 
94  New  Bond  St.,  similar  prices. 

Ye  Olde  Odmhrinus  Restaurant,  56  Regent  St.,  is  a  German 
resort  decorated  in  the  Nuremberg  style  (Bavarian  and  Bohemian 
beer),  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Oambrinus  Lager  Beer  Saloon 


3.  RESTAURANTS.  13 

(L.  If.  6d.,  D.  2s.  6(2.),  at  7Rupert  St.  Qerman  beer  is  seived  also  in 
the  Piccadilly  Spaten  Restaurant,  Piccadilly  Circus,  L.  2«.,  D.S«.  6d. 

To  THE  South  of  Piccadilly.  In  Jennyn  Street:  No.  86.  *JuU8, 
L.  4«.,  D.  7«.  6d.,  theatre  dinnei*  5«.  6d. ;  No.  '27.  L««  LauH^rs, 
L.2».6d.,  ^playgoers'  dinner'  3*.6d.  j  No.  102.  itfor^c'* (p. 4) ;  No.  82. 
British  Hotel,  L.  2«.  6(2.,  D.  d«.  Gd.  —  PoZ/  Mall  Restaurant,  9  Hay- 
market,  with  grill-room,  D.  3«.;  half-portions  serred. 

Chabiko  Cboss,  thb  Strand,  and  Fleet  Street.  The  Vietoria, 
Mitropole,  and  Grand  Hotels  (see  p.  4)  admit  non-residents  to  their 
tabloB-d'hdte.  The  Grand  also  has  a  buffet  and  an  excellent  grill- 
room (entr.  in  the  Strand;  L.  2^.  6(2.).  —  Oaiety  Restaurant,  next 
the  Gaiety  Theatre,  Aldwych,  L.  2s,  6(2.,  D.  3«.  or  5«.  6(2.,  S.  2a.  6(2., 
with  orchestra;  Wa2£2orf  J7ofe2  (p.  4),  Aldwych,  new,  with  restaurant, 
grill-room,  and  palm  court  (afternoon  tea,  1«.).  —  Romano,  399 
Strand,  L.  3«.  6(2.,  D.  5s.  6(2.  and  7s.  6(2.,  S.  Os,  (groundfloor  re- 
served for  meals  H  la  carte") ;  Adelphi  Restaurant^  at  the  Adelphi 
Theatre,  410  Strand,  L.  2s,  6(2. ,  D.  3«.  6(2. ,  S.  3«. ;  *Oatti's  Restaurant 
and  CafS,  436  Sirand,  with  entrances  also  in  Adelaide  St.  and 
King  William  St.,  moderate;  Colonrkade,  166  Strand,  L.  2s.,  D.  3«., 
k  la  carte  on  the  groundfloor.  —  Charing  Cross  Station  Restaurant, 
L.  3«.,  D.  3*.  6(2.  —  *8impson'8  Tavern,  100-102  Strand,  D.  from 
the  joint  In  the  English  style  28.  9(2.,  fish-dinner  38.  6(2.;  ladies' 
room  upstairs,  caf^  in  the  basement.  —  Tavistock  Hotel  Restaurant, 
Piazzas,  Covent  Garden.  —  Ship,  45  Charing  Cross,  unpretending, 
L.  28.,  D.  2*.  6(2.-38.,  S.  28. 

In  Lbiobsteb  Squabb  and  Soho.  In  Leicester  Square:  Queens 
Hotel  (p.  6),  li.  38.  6(i,  D.  58. ;  Nos.  10-15.  Grand  H6tel  de  I'Europe, 
with  oaf^  and  brasserie  on  the  ground-floor,  L.  38.,  D.  58.;  No.  2. 
Monte  Carlo  Restaurant,  h  la  ca/rte;  No.  20.  Cavour,  D.  38.  — 
*Kettner's,  French  house,  28-31  Church  St.,  L.  38.  6(2.,  D.  68.  and 
78.  6(2.;  *H6tel  de  Florence,  Italian  house,  57  Rupert  St.,  L.  l8.  6(2. 
and  28.  6(2.,  D.  38.  and  58.,  S.  28.  and  38.;  Previtali,  Arundell  St., 
Coventry  St.,  L.  28.  6(2.,  D.  38.  6J.  or  68.;  *ViUa  ViUa,  37  Gerrard 
St.  (once  occupied  by  Edmund  Burke),  L.  Is.  6(2.,  D.  28.  6(2.,  S.28.  — 
Scott's,  18  Coventry  St.  (also  fish  dinners;  p.  15);  Appenrodt^s, 
1  Coventry  St.,  L.  l8.  6(2.,  D.  2*.  6(2. ;  Globe,  3  Coventry  St.,  L.  28., 
D.  38. ;  West  End,  Arundell  St.,  D.  28.  6(2.;  Garrick,  11  Green  St. ; 
Hotel  d' Italic  (Molinari),  62  Old  Compton  St.,  Italian,  D.  28.  6(2.; 
Pinoli,  17  Wardour  St.,  Italian,  D.  28.;  *Roche,  16  Old  Compton 
St.,  French,  L.  or  D.  l8.  6(2. ;  Restaurant  des  Gourmets^  6  Lisle  St., 
Waidour  St.,  French,  quite  unpretending.  There  are  many  other 
cheap  foreign  restaurants  in  Soho. 

In  Holeobn,  Oxfobd  Stbbbt,  and  the  Vicinity.  Holborn 
Restaurant,  218  High  Holborn,  at  the  corner  of  Kingsway,  an  ex- 
tensive and  elaborately  adorned  establishment  with  grill-room, 
luncheon-buffets,  etc.,  D.  in  the  Grand  Salon  from  6  to  9 p.m.,  with 
music  38.,  L.  28.  6(2.,  'grilled  dinner'  in  the  'Ladies'  Grill  Room', 


14  3.  RESTAURANTS. 

2«.  6d.  —  Inns  of  Court  Restaurant,  Lincolns  Inn  Fields  (N.  side) ; 
First  Avenue  Hotel  (p.  7),  table  -  d*h6te  D.  5^.,  also  restaurant, 
grill-room,  and  luncheon  buffet j  Spiers  ^  Pond's  Buffet,  Holborn 
Viaduct  Station;  Vienna  Cafi  (p.  16),  near  the  British  Museum, 
a  la  carte  (open  on^TSwr:^  —  Midland  Orand  Hottl,  at  St.  Pancras 
Station  (p.  7).  —  *Fagani,  42  Great  Portland  St.,  with  the  inter- 
esting Artists'  Room  upstairs,  containing  drawings  and  autographs 
by  artists,  opera-singers,  and  actors  (reserved  for  private  parties). 
*H6Ul  RusseU  Restaurant  (p.  7),  Russell  Square,  D.  6«.  (table- 
d'h6te  open  also  to  non-residents) ;  Imperial  Hotel  (p.  7).  Frascati, 
26-32  Oxford  St.,  a  large  and  handsome  establishment  with  winter- 
garden,  cafe,  and  grill-room,  L.  2«.  6(2.,  D.  5«.;  The  Horseshoe 
(p.  7),  264-267  Tottenham  Court  Road,  with  luncheon-bar  and 
grill-room,  D.  2».  6d.;  arcus  Restaurant,  213  Oxford  St.;  Star 
^  Garter,  98  New  Oxford  St.,  L.  la.  6d.,  D.  2«.  — *Bus%afd  (pastry- 
cook), 197  Oxford  St.  (recommended  for  ladies;  not  open  in  the 
evening).  —  *Wharnecliffe  Restaurant,  In  connection  with  the 
Hotel  Great  Central  (p.  6),  with  grill-room,  entered  from  Hare- 
wood  Avenue  (table-d'h6te  in  hotel  open  also  to  non-residents). 

In  Wbstminstbr.  Westminster  Palace  Hotel  Restaurant,  Tothill 
St.;  CaxtonHouse,T:oihillSt.—*VictoriaStationRestaurant,J),Ss., 
L.  or  S.  28.  —  Overton,  4  Victoria  Buildings,  opposite  Victoria 
Station  (fish  dinners);  Continental,  7  Wilton  Road,  Victoria  Station. 

In  Kensington.  Hyde  Park  Hotel  (p.  6),  Albert  Gate,  with 
grill-room;  Hans  Crescent  Hotel  (;p.  5),  with  winter-garden;  BoUon 
Mansions  Hotel  (p.  6) ;  Bailey's  Hotel  (p.  6),  music  at  dinner  on 
Tues.,  Thurs.,  &  Sun.;  and  other  hotels  mentioned  on  p.  6.  — 
Restaurant  at  the  South  Kensington  Museum  (p.  346).  —  Antonelli, 
Kensington  High  Street. 


Bestanrants  in  the  City. 

In  Flbbt  Stbbbt  :  *Old  Cheshire  Cheese,  16  Wine  Office  Court 
(comp.  p.  148),  Fleet  St.  (steak  and  chop  house;  beefsteak 
pudding  on  Wednesdays,  2«.).  —  The  Cock,  22  Fleet  St.  (chops, 
steaks,  kidneys ;  good  stout) ;  with  the  fittings  of  the  Old  Cock 
Tavern,  pulled  down  in  1886,  and  various  interesting  relics.  — 
*The  Rainbow,  15  Fleet  St.;  dinner  from  the  joint,  chops, 
steaks,  etc. 

Near  St.  Paul's  :  *De  Keyset's  Royal  Hotel  (p.  8),  Blackfriars ; 
Spiers  and  Pond^s  Restaurant,  Ludgate  Hill  Station ;  Shannon^s,  a 
chop-house  in  Maidenhead  Court,  Aldersgate  Street. 

In  Cheapsidb  and  Vicinity.  In  Cheapside:  Read^s  (No.  94), 
moderate  charges;  Queen  Anne  (No.  27),  D.  %.  6d.;  Sweeting's 
(No.  158;  fish);  Ti/y!n  (No.  66).  —  City  Restaurant,  34  Milk  St., 
D.  (12-3)  la.  3d. ;  Ouildhall  Tavern,  81-83  Gresham  St.,  D.  2«.  6d. ; 
Ruttermann,  41-42  London  Wall,  D.  2a.  6d. 


3.  RESTAURANTS.  15 

Neab  the  Bank:  The  Pdlmerston,  34  Old  Broad  St.;  Auction 
Martf  Tokenhous©  Yard,  Lothbury;  Charley's  Fish  Shop  f snacks  of 
flsh),  20  Coleman  St. ;  *Pimm%  42  Threadneedle  St.,  8  Poultry, 
and  29  Bucklersbury.  —  Throgmorton  Restaurant,  Throgmorton  St. 
—  The  Bay  Tree,  33  St  Swithin's  Lane.  —  Windmill,  151  Cannon 
Sti  —  Birch's  (Ring  ^Brymer),  15  Comhill,  the  principal  purveyors 
to  civic  feasts,  a  noted  house  for  tuitle  soup;  Baker's,  1  Change 
Alley,  a  well-known  chop-house. 

To  THE  East  of  the  Bank.  In  Qracechurch  Street :  The  Grass- 
hopper (No.  13),  D.  is.  6d. ;  Appenrodi's  German  Restaurant  (No.  16), 
opposite  Leadenhall  Market;  Lbvcenhrdu  Restaurant  (No.  57; 
Munich  beer). 

Ship  and  Turtle,  129  Leadenhall  St.,  noted  for  its  turtle  soup 
(live  turtles  on  view  in  the  aquarium) ;  fine  Masonic  Hall,  willingly 
shown  to  Free  Masons  of  any  nationality.  —  London  Tavern^  form- 
erly King's  Head,  53  Fenchurch  Street.  Queen  Elizabeth  here  took 
her  first  meal  after  her  liberation  from  the  Tower.  —  The  Palmerston, 
Nos.  82  and  93  Bishopsgate  Street  Within ;  *Great  Eastern  HoUl 
Restaurant,  at  the  comer  of  Liverpool  St.  and  Bishopsgate  Without, 
with  grill-room  and  buffet.  —  Three  Nuns,  10  Aldgate  High  St., 
adjoining  Aldgate  Metropolitan  Station. 

George  Inn  Hotel  (p.  8),  77  Borough  High  St.,  unpretending. 

Visitors  to  London  are  sometimes  interested  by  a  visit  to  the  huge 
Alexandra  Trust  Befreshment  Rooms,  132-144  City  Road,  where  a  substantial 
dinner  is  provided  for  by^a.,  and  other  refreshments  at  corresponding  prices. 

Vegetarian  Bee taur ants. 
Eustace  Miles  Restaurant,  41  Chandos  St.,  L.  is,  6d. ;  St,  George's 
Cafe,  37  St.  Martin's  Lane,  D.  is,  6d. ;  The  Arcadian,  100  Bishops- 
gate Within;  Central,  16  St.  Bride's  St.,  Ludgate  Circus;  Alpha, 
23  Oxford  St ;  CaHle's,  392  Oxford  St.  and  73  Chiswell  St.,  Finsbury 
Pavement;  Ceres,  16  Newgate  St.;  HighHolhom,  278 High  Holbom; 
Food  Reform,  4  Furnival  St.,  Holborn;  Apple  Tree,  34  London 
Wall ;  Shearn's  Fruit  Luncheon  Saloon,  231  Tottenham  Court  Road. 

Oyster  Shops. 

*Scott  (Edwin),  18  Coventry  St.,  exactly  opposite  the  Hay- 
market  (also  steaks);  Blue  Posts,  14Rupert  St.  (American  specialties, 
clams,  etc.;  also  grill);  *Driver^  46  Glasshouse  St.,  Regent  St.; 
Pimm,  3  Poultry,  City;  *Sweeting,  158  Cheapside,  70  Fleet  St.,  and 
39  Queen  Victoria  St.,  City;   Rule's,  35  Maiden  Lane,  W.C. 

The  charge  for  a  dozen  oysters  is  nsually  from  2s.  to  Is.  Qd.,  accord- 
ing to  the  season  and  the  rank  of  the  house.  Small  lobster  U.  Qd.; 
larger  lobster  2s.  6d.  and  upwards.  Snacks  of  fish  2-6d.  Oysters,  like 
pork,  are  supposed  to  be  out  of  season  in  the  months  that  have  no  B  in 
their  name,  i.e.  those  of  summer. 


16 


4.  Catts.    Tea  Booms.    Confectioners. 

Cafif. 

Caf^B  in  London  are  merely  a  species  of  restaurant  (sometimes 
unlicensed)  in  -which  lighter  repasts  are  served  than  in  ordinary 
restaurants.  The  name  has  been  appropriated  also  by  many  small 
establishments  differing  little  from  tea-rooms  or  pastrycooks'  shops. 
Some  of  the  restaurants  mentioned  above  include  caftf-rooms  or 
act  as  caf^s  in  the  afternoon.  The  caf^s  in  the  city  (smoking  usually 
permitted)  are  more  strictly  coffee-houses. 

At  thb  West  End.  *€h'and  Cafi  Roydl^  68  Regent  St.  (also  a 
restaurant,  p.  12);  Verreyy  corner  of  Regent  St.  and  Hanover  St., 
noted  for  ices  (restaurant,  p.  12);  Oatti's  Cafi^  436  Strand,  good 
ices  (restaurant,  p.  13);  Carlo  Gatti,  Villiers  St.,  Strand;  Qttnter^ 

15  Lowndes  St.  and  7  Berkeley  Square ;  CafS  and  Smoking  Room, 
Criterion  (p.  12),  entered  from  Jermyn  St.;  Monieo,  19  Shaftes- 
bury Avenue  (p.  12);  Frascati,  32  Oxford  St.  (restaurant,  p.  14); 
^Vienna  Cafij  corner  of  Oxford  St.  and  Hart  St.,  near  the  British 
Museum  (restaurant,  p.  13);  BrcMerie  de  V Europe,  Leicester  Square 
(p.  13) ;  AppenrodVs  Vienna  Cafe,  1  Coventry  St.,  Leicester  Square. 

In  thb  City.    Peele'8,  177  Fleet  St.;  *Oroom's  Coffee  House, 

16  Fleet  St.,  unpretending,  for  men  only;  CafS  Nero,  Wool  Ex- 
change, Coleman  St.;  and  the  shops  of  the  London  Cafd  Co.  and 
Ye  Mecca  Company. 

Tea  Booms. 

Afternoon  tea  is  obtainable  everywhere  in  London:  in  the 
sumptuous  lounges  or  winter-gardens  of  the  large  hotels  (l-2s.  per 
head),  at  the  above-mentioned  caf^s,  at  confectioners,  in  the  tea- 
rooms of  the  large  outfitting  establishments  (see  p.  67),  and  at 
special  establishments  of  all  grades,  including  the  numerous  shops 
(often  crowded)  of  Lyons  ^  Co,,  Slater,  and  the  Aerated  Bread  Co, 
Ices,  pastry,  and  similar  light  refreshments  may  be  obtained  at  all. 
Among  the  best  tea-rooms  are  the  following. 

*Bumpelmayer,  at  the  corner  of  St.  James's  St.  and  King  St.,  a 
fashionable  resort  with  charges  to  correspond;  *Stewart,  corner  of 
Old  Bond  St.  and  Piccadilly;  Criterion  (p.  12);  *  Bustard  (p.  14), 
197  Oxford  St.;  Simpson  ^  Thomas,  Marlborough  Tea  Rooms,  Old 
Oak  Tea  House,  Nos.  161,  143,  and  37  New  Bond  St. ;  Bungalow, 
21  Conduit  St.,  W.;  Callard,  74  Regent  St.;  FuUer's,  368  Strand 
and  31  Kensington  High  St. 

In  summer  tea  may  be  had  al  fresco  in  Kensington  Gardens, 
Battersea  Park,  and  Kew  Gardens.  —  Most  of  the  great  public 
collections  (British  Museum,  South  Kensington  Museum,  Tate 
Gallery,  etc.)  are  provided  with  refreshment -rooms,  but  at  the 
National  Gallery,  National  Portrait  Gallery,  and  Wallace  Collection 
no  refreshments  of  any  kind  are  obtainable. 


5.  BATHS.  17 

Confectioners. 

Rumpelmayer^  see  p.  16;  Charbonnel  ^  Walker^  173  New  Bond 
St. ;  Duclo8,  2  Royal  Arcade,  Old  Bond  St. ;  Blatchley,  167.  Bu^sard, 
197,  both  in  Oxford  St.;  FuUer,  206  Regent  St.,  368  Strand, 
3  Conduit  St.,  31  Kensington  High  St.,  68a.  St.  Paul's  Churchyard, 
113  yictoiia  St.,  S.W.,  and  131  Queen's  Road,  Bayswater  (American 
confectionery) ;  Beadell^  8  Vere  St. ;  Ounter  ^  Co,,  7  Berkeley  Square 
(ices);  De  Bry,  64  New  Oxford  St. 


5.  Baths. 

(Those  marked  f  are  or  include  Turkish  baths;  those  marked  §  have 
swimming  basins.) 

Hot  and  cold  baths  of  various  kinds  may  be  obtained  at  the  baths 
mentioned  below  at  charges  varying  from  6(2.  upwards.  The  usual 
charge  for  a  Turkish  bath  is  28.  6(2.  to  3«.  6d.;  some  establishments 
have  reduced  charges  in  the  evening.  The  Public  Baths,  which  are 
plainly  but  comfortably  fitted  up,  were  instituted  chiefly  for  the 
working  classes,  who  can  obtain  cold  baths  here  for  as  low  a  price 
as  Id.,  from  which  the  charges  rise  to  6c{.  or  8(2.  They  are  now  to 
be  found  in  every  quarter  of  London,  and  many  of  them  include 
swimming  baths.  Many  of  the  private  baths  have  most  elegant 
appointments. 

t  AidgaU  TurJsith  Baths,  U  Whitechapel  Street. 

+  Bartholomew's  Tvrkish  Baths^  23  Leicester  Square,  W.C. 

%Bloomshurjf  and  St.  Oiles  Baths  (public),  Endell  Street. 

f  Broad  Street  Turkish  BathSy  Xew  Broad  Street. 

fCharinff  Cross  Baths^  Northumberland  Ayenue.    For  ladies,  in  Korth* 
nmberland  Passage,  Graven  Street.    Adm.  3s.  6<l.,  7-9  p.m.  2«. 
Chelsea  Bafhs^  171  King's  Bead,  Chelsea. 
City  of  WeetminMter  Baths  (public),  U-18  Marshall  Street,  Golden  Square. 

%  Crown  Swimminff  Baths,  Eennington  OvaU  9d. 

fJgarPs  Court  Baths^  26a  EarPB  Court  Gardens.  S.W. 

iEdgware  Road  Turkish  Baths,  16  Harrow  Road. 

i Electropathie  and  Turkish  Baths,  24 Railway  Approach,  London  Bridge,  S.E. 
Faulkner^s  Baths,  26  Villiers  Street,  by  Charing  Cross  Station  %  at  Fen- 
church  Street  Station.   These  establishments,  with  lavatories,  hair-cutting 
rooms,  etc.,  are  convenient  for  travellers  arriving  by  railway. 

iHaleyU,  182  and  184  Euston  Road. 

§  Kensington  Baths  (public),  Lancaster  Road,  W. 

fKing^s  Cross  Turkish  Baths,  9  Caledonian  Road,  King's  (}ross. 

f  London  and  Provincial  Turkish  Baths  (*The  Hammam'),  76  Jermyn  Street, 
bath  is. 

t  London  Bridge  Turkish  Baths,  7  Railway  Approach,  London  Bridge. 

f  Royal  Fork  Baths,  64  York  Terrace,  Regent's  Park. 

%St.  George's  Baths  (public),  8  Davies  Street,  Berkeley  Square,  and  85 
Buckingham  Palace  Road. 

St.  Martinis  Baths  (public).  Orange  Street,  Leicester  Square. 

%St.  Maryld>one  Baths  (public),  181  Marylebone  Road. 

S  Westminster  Baths  (public),  22  Great  Smith  Stre^  Westminster. 

t  Wool  Exchange  Turkish  Baths,  Coleman  Street  and  Basinghall  Street. 

Babdbxsb's  London.    15th  Edit.  2 


18 


6.   Cabs.  Omnibuses.  Tramways.  Coaches. 

Cabs.  Taximeter  motor  cabs  have  recently  been  introduced  Into 
London  and  are  gradually  displacing  the  older  vehicles,  but  the  com- 
monest cab  is  still  the  two-wheeled  horse-drawn  hansom  cab,  while 
the  four-wheeled  horse-drawn  cab  still  plies  in  undiminished  num- 
bers, mainly  at  the  railway  stations.  —  The  ^Hansomti'  (so-called 
after  their  inventor)  are  two-wheeled  vehicles  with  seats  for  two 
persons  only  (though  often  used  by  three) ;  they  drive  at  a  much 
quicker  rate  than  the  other  horse-drawn  cabs,  but  cannot  accom- 
modate much  luggage.  The  driver's  seat  is  at  the  back,  so  that  he 
drives  over  the  heads  of  the  passengers  sitting  inside.  Orders  are 
communicated  to  him  through  a  small  trap-door  in  the  roof.  —  On 
request  he  will  let  down  the  window  in  front.  —  The  four-wheeled  . 
horse-drawn  cabs  C Four- Wheelers'  or,  more  colloquially,  ^Orowlera')y 
which  are  convenient  for  the  conveyance  of  luggage,  hold  four 
persons  inside,  while  a  fifth  can  be  accommodated  beside  the  driver. 
They  are  usually  less  well -horsed  than  the  hansoms.  —  Some 
hansoms  and  four-wheelers  have  been  fitted  with  taximeters ;  the 
latter  are  convenient  for  shopping.  —  The  Taximeter  Motor  Cabs 
CTaxicdbt'  or*  Taxis';  are  four-wheeled  vehicles  with  seats  for  two, 
three,  or  four.  The  taximeter  is  placed  to  the  left  of  the  driver  and 
its  dial  is  visible  from  the  Inside  of  the  cab.  Except  when  hindered 
by  dense  traffic,  these  cabs  travel  much  faster  than  hansoms. 

The  following  regulations  apply  to  all  classes  of  cabs.  —  Faucb  are 
reckoned  by  distance,  unless  the  cab  is  expressly  hired  by  time.  For 
each  person  above  two,  6<l.  additional  is  charged  for  the  whole  hiring. 
Two  children  under  10  years  of  age  are  reckoned  as  one  adult.  For  each 
bicycle  or  perambulator  carried  6(1.  is  charged,  for  each  other  article  of 
luggage  carried  outside  2(1.  Luggage  on  the  footboard  of  a  hansom  or 
similar  cab  preventing  the  doors  from  closing  over  it  is  deemed  to  be  out- 
side. The  cabman  is  not  bound  to  drive  more  than  6  miles  or  for  a  longer 
period  than  one  hour.  The  driver  is  bound  to  deposit  any  articles  left 
in  the  cab  at  a  police  station  within  twenty-four  hours,  to  be  claimed 
by  the  owner  at  the  Head  Police  Office,  Kew  Scotland  Yard  (p.  216). 

Tariff  for  Oabs  with  Taximeters. 

a.  Motor  Cabs  toitk  Taximeters.  For  the  first  mile  or  the  first  10  min. 
or  less,  8d. ;  for  each  addit.  V4  ^-  or  21/2  min.  or  less,  2d. 

b.  Horse  drawn  Cabs  with  Taximeters.  For  the  first  mile  or  the  first 
12  min.  or  less,  6d.  \  each  addit.  V2  M.  or  6  min.  or  less,  '6d. 

The  cab-radius  has  no  application  to  taximete'-cabs. 

Tariff  for  Cabs  without  Taximeters, 
a.  Bp  Distance.  When  the  cab  is  hired  and  discharged  within  the  4-mile 
radius  (cab-radius)  from  Charing  Cross  the  charge  for  a  drive  of  2  M.  or 
less  is  is.y  for  each  additional  mile  or  part  of  a  mile  6d.  •—  If  hired  within 
but  discharged  without  the  radius:  not  exceeding  1  M.,  1«.,  each  addit.  mile 
completed  within  the  circle  6d.,  each  addit.  mile  or  part  of  a  mile  ending 
outside  the  radius  1*.  —  If  hired  without  the  radius  (wherever  discharged)  \ 
each  mile  or  part  of  %  mile  is.  —  The  charge  for  waiting  is  Qd.  for  each 
completed  Vi  ^'-  ^^^  four-wheelers  and  8<l.  for  hansoms. 


6.  CABS. 


19 


b.  Bv  Time.  'So  matter  where  hired  or  discharged  the  charge  for  a 
hansom  for  1  hr.  or  less  is  2«.  6d. ;  above  one. hour,  for  each  V4  br.  of  the 
tohoU  Hme^  or  for  any  less  period,  8d.  —  The  charge  for  a  four-wheeler 
hired  and  dischai^ed  within  the  radius  is  %.  per  hr. ;  beyond  one  hour,  6<i. 
for  each  1/4  hr.  of  the  whole  time,  or  any  less  period.  In  all  other  cases  the 
charge  is  the  same  as  for  a  hansom. 


Horse-Gab  Furei 

from  the 

chief  railway-stations 

to 


^ 

? 

1 

Q 

1 

^ 

oa 

1 

'^  1 

1 

"bk*^ 

(§ 

1 

i^ 

a.d. 

s.d. 

s.d. 

1-6 

1  - 

1-6 

1  - 

1-6 

1-6 

1  - 

1-6 

1  - 

1  - 

1-6 

1  - 

1  - 

2  - 

1-6 

1-6 

2  - 

2  - 

1  - 

1-6 

1-6 

2  - 

1  - 

1-6 

1-6 

1  - 

1  - 

1-6 

2  - 

1-6 

1  - 

1-6 

1  - 

1  - 

1-6 

1-6 

1-6 

1  - 

1  - 

1  - 

1-6 

1-6 

1-6 

1  - 

1  - 

2  - 

2-6 

2-6 

1  - 

1-6 

1  - 

1  - 

1  - 

1  - 

2  - 

1  - 

2  - 

1  - 

1-6 

1-6 

1-6 

1-6 

1-6, 

1  - 

2-6 

1  -' 

Bank  of  England 

Bond  Street,  Piccadilly.  . 

British  Museum 

Covent  Garden 

Grosyeaor  Square    .... 
Hyde  Park  Corner  .... 

Leicester  Square 

London  Bridge 

Ludgate  Hill 

Marble  Arch 

Oxford  Circus 

Piccadilly,  Haymarket  .   . 

Post  Office 

Regent  Street,  Piccadilly. 

St.  Paul's 

South  Kensington  Museum 
Strand  (Wellington  Street) 

Temple  Bar 

Tower 

Trafalgar  Square 

Westminster  Palace  .   .   . 
Zoological  Gardens.  .  .  . 


s.d. 

1  - 
1-6 
1-6 
1-6 

2  - 
2  - 
1-6 
1  - 

1  - 

2  - 
1-6 
1-6 
1  - 
1-6 
1  - 
2-6 
1-6 
1  - 

1  - 
1-6 
1-6 

2  - 


s.d. 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1-6 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1-6 
1  - 
1  - 
1-6 
1  - 
1  - 
1-6 


s.d. 

1  - 
1-6 
1-6 
1-6 

2  - 
2  - 
1-6 

1  - 

2  - 
2  - 
1-6 
1  - 
1-6 
1  - 
2-6 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1-6 

.1-6 


t.d. 
2- 
1  - 
1-6 
1-6 
1  - 

1  - 
1-6 
2-6 

2  - 
1  - 
1  - 

1  - 

2  - 
1  - 
2- 
#6 
1-6 
1-6 
2-6 
1-6 

'2-6    1  - 


t.d. 
2-6 
1-6 
1-6 
1-6 

1  - 
1-6 
1-6 
2-6 

2  - 
1  - 

1  - 
1-6 

2  - 
1-6 
2-6 
1-6 
2  - 
2  - 
2-6 
1-6 
2  - 
1-6 


s.d. 
2  - 
1  - 
1-6 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1-6 
1-6 
1  - 
1  - 

1  - 

2  - 
1  - 
1-6 
1-6 

1  - 
1-6 

2  - 
1  - 

1  - 

2  - 


».d 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1-6 
1-G 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1-6 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1  - 

1  - 

2  - 
1  - 
1  - 
1-6 
1  - 

1  - 

2  - 


Whether  the  hirer  knows  the  proper  fare  or  not,  he  is  recommended 
to  come  to  an  agreement  with  the  driver  before  starting. 

The  trayeller  should  resist  all  attempts  at  overcharging,  and  should, 
in  case  of  peirsistency,  demand  the  cabman's  number,  or  order  him  to 
drive  to  the  nearest  police  court  or  station. 

The  Fly  is  a  yehicle  of  a  saperior  description  and  is  admitted 
to  the  parks  more  freely  than  the  cabs.  Flys  must  be  specially  ordered 
from  a  liyery  stable  keeper,  and  the  charges  are  of  coarse  higher. 
The  tariff  of  the  CoupS  Brougham  Company  (14  Regent  St.,  S.W.) 
is  as  follows:  coup^  with  one  horse,  7«.  6d.  first  2hr8.,  Bs.  6d. 
each  additional  hr.;  to  and  from  theatre  9«.  6d.;  coupe  with  two 
horses,  not  quite  double  these  rates,  with  minimum  of  15^. 

Omnibnsef  y  of  which  there  are  upwards  of  200  lines,  cross  the 
Metropolis  in  eyery  direction  from  about  7.30  a.m.  till  midnight. 
The  majority  are  still  horse-drawn,  but  the  number  of  motor- omni- 
buses (in  1908  about  1000)  is  steidily  on  the  increase.  The  regu- 
lations are  the  same  for  both  kinds.  The  destination  of  each  yehicle 
(familiarly  known  as  a  ^bus),  and  the  names  of  some  of  the  principal 

2* 


20  6.  OMNIBUSES. 

streets  thiough  which  it  passes,  are  usually  painted  on  the  outside. 
As  omnibuses  keep  to  the  left  in  driying  along  the  street,  the  in- 
tending passenger  should  walk  on  that  side  for  the  purpose  of  hail- 
ing one.  To  prerent  mistakes  he  had  better  mention  his  destina- 
tion to  the  conductor  before  entering.  The  fares  vary  from  id.  to 
6d.  or  7(i.,  and  those  who  travel  by  omnibus  should  keep  themselves 
provided  with  small  change  to  avoid  delay  and  mistakes.  The  ticket 
given  by  the  conductor  on  payment  of  the  fare  should  be  retained 
until  the  end  of  the  journey.  A  table  of  the  legal  fares  is  placed  in 
the  inside  of  each  omnibus.  The  'garden  seats'  on  the  top  (same 
fares  as  inside)  are  pleasant  enough  in  fine  weather  and  are  freely 
patronized  by  ladies.  —  The  so-called  Pullman  Cars  are  omnibases 
of  a  superior  description  that  have  recently  begun  to  ply  in  some 
of  the  leading  streets  of  the  West  End  (fare  Gd.  for  any  distance). 
The  first  omnibuses  plying  in  London  were  started  by  Mr.  Oeorge 
Shilibeer  in  1829.  They  were  drawn  by  three  horses  yoked  abreast,  and 
were  much  heavier  and  clumsier  than  those  now  in  use.  At  first  they 
were  furnished  with  a  supply  of  books  for  the  use  of  the  passengers. 

The  principal  points  of  intersection  of  the  omnibus  lines  are  (on 
the  N.  of  the  Thames)  the  Bank,  Oharing  Gross,  Piccadilly  Oircus, 
Oxford  Oircus,  the  Marble  Arch,  Hyde  Park  Oomer,  the  junction  of 
Tottenham  Court  Road  and  Oxford  Street  (PI.  R,  27}  i),  and  the  Angel, 
Islington  (Pi.  B,  85).  The  chief  point  in  Southwark  is  the  hostelry 
called  the  Elephant  and  Castle  (PI.  G,  33),  to  which  omnibus-lines 
converge  from*  Westminster  Bridge,  Waterloo  Bridge,  Blaekfriars 
Bridge,  and  London  Bridge. 

A  special  service  of  small  omnibuses,  owned  and  managed  by  the 
railway  companies,  connects  the  chief  stations  on  the  N.  side  (Enston, 
etc.)  with  the  chief  stations  on  the  S.  side  (Charing  Gross,  Waterloo,  etc.). 
These  buses,  which  meet  the  mail  trains,  start  from  inside  the  stations 
and  carry  luggage  on  the  roof.  Fare  Sd. ;  each  article  of  luggage  carried 
outside  Id.  Passengers  with  through -tickets  to  points  in  the  south  are 
conveyed  free  (reasonable  luggage  included). 

The  omnibus-lines  are  so  multifarious,  and  the  disturbing  ele- 
ments introduced  into  the  omnibus-system  by  the  new  tube-rail- 
ways (p.  33)  and  by  the  gradual  substitution  of  motor-vehicles  for 
horse-drawn  buses  are  so  far-reaching,  that  no  compendious  and 
practically  useful  list  of  omnibus-routes  can  at  present  be  drawn  up 
for  the  guidance  of  travellers.  Practically  every  point  in  the  Metro- 
polis may  be  reached  from  every  other  by  omnibus,  and  all  the  main 
thoroughfares  are  traversed  from  end  to  end  by  these  vehicles,  some- 
times at  intervals  of  two  minutes  or  less.  The  visitor  to  London  is 
advised  to  acquaint  himself  by  enquiry  with  the  omnibus  -  lines 
that  pass  near  his  hotel  or  lodgings.  If  he  contemplate  an  expedition 
beyond  the  routes  of  any  of  these,  he  should  make  special  enquiry, 
or  apply  to  the  omniscient  policeman  at  any  of  the  above-mentioned 
points  of  intersection. 

Tramways.  London  contains  about  130miles  of  tramways,  nearly 
all  of  which  are  owned  by  the  County  Council.   Electric  traction 


6.  TRAMWAYS.  21 

was  introdnoed  in  1903  and  has  been  extended  to  practically  the 
entire  system.  None  of  the  lines  pass  through  the  City  proper  or 
the  West  End  —  the  chief  resorts  of  the  tourist  —  hnt  radiating  as 
they  do  from  the  limits  of  the  bnsy  central  portion  of  the  metropolis 
in  all  directions  hut  the  W.,  they  are  convenient  for  visiting  the  out- 
lying districts  on  the  N.,  E.,  and  S.  The  can  are  comfortable  and 
run  every  few  minutes  from  early  in  the  morning  till  about  mid- 
night (fares  Y2^.-4(f.).  The  stopping-places  are  indicated  by  pla- 
cards on  lamp-posts  or  trolley-posts. — Though  lines  now  crossVaux- 
hall  Bridge  and  Westminster  Bridge,  the  river  practically  divides  the 
tramways  into  two  distinct  systems,  the  only  connecting-link  between 
Mhich  is  a  tunnel  from  the  Embankment  near  Waterloo  Bridge  to 
Kingsway .  The  chief  points  of  intersection  on  the  N.  of  the  Thames 
are  Kirifrs  Cross  (PL  B,  82)  and  the  'Angd'  in  Islington  (PI.  B,  36). 
On  the  S.  side  the  main  foci  of  tramway- traffic  are  the  ^Elephant  ^ 
CastW  (PI.  G,  33)  and  8L  Qtorgts  Circus  (PL  R,  33),  where  roads 
from  the  five  principal  bridges  in  London  converge. 

The  excellent  service  of  suburban  electric  tramways  (p.  24), 
starting  in  most  cases  from  the  termini  of  the  County  Council  lines 
or  of  the  tube-railways  (p.  33),  render  a  wide  area  conveniently  ac- 
cessible.   Several  new  tramways  are  under  construction. 

In  the  following  list  cars  of  which  the  colour  is  mentioned  are 
horse-drawn ;  the  others  are  electric  unless  otherwise  described.  On 
many  of  the  lines  the  services  during  the  busy  hours  in  the  morn- 
ing and  evening  are  more  frequent  than  is  given  below. 

liToBTH   SiDB  OF  TBS  THAMES. 

From  EoBton  Boad  (PI.  B,  24)  via  Hampstead  Bead.  1.  To  Haupstkad 
Beats  Station  (^f»  M.),  every  7  min.  via  Chalk  Farm  and  Maiden  Road 
(PI.  B,  IT) ;  yellow  cars,  fnre2(f.  —  2.  To  Htghgatb  (Archway  Tavern;  3  M.)» 
every  6»^  min.  viH  Camden  Town  Station  (PI.  B,  22),  and  Kentish  Town 
Road;  red  cars,  Qd.  —  3.  To  Fimsbuet  Pabk  (3'/2  M.),  every  6  min.  via 
Camden  Boad  (Pl.  B, 22, 25),  and  Seven  Sisters  Road*,  gi«en  cars,  2d. 

From  Aldwyeh  (PI,.  B,  31).  4.  To  Highbubt  Station  (PI.  B.  38,  34; 
2V4  tf  •))  every  6  min.  \ik  Kingsvray  (shallow  subway),  Theobald  s  Road, 
Rosebery  Avenue,  'Anger,  Islington  (PI.  B,  35),  and  Upper  St.  \  2d.  —  4a.  To 
TowEB  Bbidob  (PI.  R,  46 :  3*^  M.)  via  tunnel  to  the  Embankment  and 
thence  over  Westminster  Bridge  as  in  Ko.  35;  3Vs<2. 

From  Theobalds  Boad  (PI.  B,  32).  5.  To  Lea  Bbidge  Road,  Clapton 
(47g  M.),  every  4  min.  via  Old  St.,  Hackney  Road,  and  Mare  St.  (PI.  B, 
50,  49);  2d..  —  6.  To  Poplab  (PI.  R,  63;  53/b  M.),  every  4  min.  via  Old  St., 
£ishopsgate  Station  (PI.  R,  48),  Commercial  St.,  and  Commercial  Road  East. 

From  ClerkenweU.  7.  From  Clerienwell  Road  (PI.  R,  36)  to  Highoatb 
and  FiNSBiniT  Pabk  (88/4  M.),  every  6  min.  via  Gray's  Inn  Road,  King's 
Cross  (PI.  B,  82),  Caledonian  Road  (PI.  B,  31,  30, 29),  and  HoUoway  Road; 
pink  cars,  2d.  —  8.  From  St.  John  Street  (PI.  R,  36)  to  Mabe  Stbeet  (PI. 
B,49;  3V2M.).  every  3  min.  via  'Angel*  (PI.  B,  35),  Upper  St.,  Essex  Road, 
Dalston  Junction  (PI.  B,  45,  46),  and  Graham  Road;  green  ears,  2d. 

From  Holbom  (PI.  R,  36)  vift  Gray's  Inn  Road.  9.  To  Hampstead 
Heath  Station  (3»/4  M.),  every  7  min.  via  King's  Cross,  St.  Pancras  Road, 
Camden  Town  Station  (PI.  B,  22),  Prince  of  Wales  Road,  and  Maiden  Road 
(PI.  B,  17);  2d.  —  10.  To  Highqate  (Swcin't  Lane;  38/4  M.)  every  7  min.  vi& 
King's  Cross  (PI.  B,  32),  Camden  Town  Station  (PI.  B,  22),  Kentish  Town 


22  6.  TRAMWAYS. 

Road,  and  Highgate  Road  (PI.  B,  21);  2d.  —  11.  To  Hiohgatk  {Archway 
Tavern;  3»/8  M.),  every  6  min.  via  Rosebery  Avenue  (PI.  B,  36),  'AngeP  (PI. 
B,  35),  Upper  St.,  Highbury  Station  (PI.  B,  33,  34),  and  Holloway  Road  (PI. 
B,  38,  29);  2d.  —  12.  To  Fissburt  Park  (3»/4  M.),  eve-v  6  min.  vift  King's 
Cross  (PI.  B,  32),  Caledonian  Road  (PI.  B,  31,  30,  29),  and  Seven  Sisters  Road. 

—  13.  To  Stamford  Hill  (5V2  H.),  every  6  min.  via  Clerkenwell  Road, 
Old  St.,  and  Kingsland  Road  (PI.  B,4845);  2d. 

From  Aldersgate  (PI.  R,  40).  14.  To  Highgate  iArchtoav  Tavern;  3»/4  M.), 
every  6  min.  via  Goswell  Road,  \Angel'  (PI.  B,  35),  and  thence  as  in  No.  11;  2d. 

From  Hoorgate  (PI.  B,  44;  II J).  15.  To  Highgate  {Archvav  Tavern: 
4V4  M.),  every  4  min.  via  City  Road,  'AngeP  (PI.  B,  35),  and  thence  as  in 
No.  11;  2d.  —  16.  To  FiNSBUKY  Park  (4Y4  M.),  every  4  min.,  by  No.  15, 
chansing  at  Seven  Sisters  Road;  2d.  —  17.  To  Higuburt  Station  (PI.  B, 
33,  b4;  2V8  M.),  every  6  min.  via  City  Road,  New  North  Road  (PI.  R,  43,  39), 
and  Canonbury  Road;  brown  cars,  Id,  —  18.  To  Manor  Park  (d*/4  M.), 
every  5  min.  via  City  Road,  East  Road,  Southgate  Road  (PI.  B,  48,  42), 
Mildmay  Park  (PI.  B,  41),  and  Green  Lanes ;  green  cars,  2d.  —  19.  To  Stam- 
ford Hill  (P/g  H.),  vi&  City  Road  to  Old  St.  and  thence  as  in  No.  13;  2d. 

—  20.  To  King's  Cross  (PI.  B,  32 ;  2V8  M.)  via  City  Road,  *Anger  (PI.  B, 
35),  and  Pentonville  Road;  IVzd. 

From  Norton  Folgatc  (PI.  R,  44),  Bishopsgatc.  21.  To  Stamford  Hill 
(S^/g  M.),  eve  y  i^J-z  min.  in  the  morning  and  evening  only,  via  Shoreditcb 
High  St.  and  Kingsland  Road  (PI.  B,  48-45);  2d. 

^  From  Aldgate  (PI.  B,47 ;///).  22.  To  Stamford  Hi ll  (5  M.),  every  5  min. 
via 'Whitechapel  Road,  Cambridge  Road  (Bethnal  Oreen  Museum,  PI.  B,  52), 
Mare  St.,  and  Clapton  Road  (PI.  B,  63) ;  white  cars,  2d.  —  23.  To  How  Bridge 
(PI.  B,  68;  3M.),  every  4  min.  via  Whitechapel  Road,  Mile  End  Road  (PL 
R.  56, 60),  and  Bow  Road  (PI.  B,  64) ;  blue  cars,  2d.  —  24.  To  Poplar  (PI.  R,  71 ; 
2V8  M.),  every  4  min.  vii  Commercial  Road  East  (PI.  R,  51,  55,  69) ;  IVad. 

From  London  Docks  (PI.  R,  46).  25.  To  Stamford  Hill  (4^8  M.),  every 
6  min.  via  Leman  St.,  Commercial  St.  (PI.  R.  47,  48),  Shoreditch  Hi^h  St. 
(PI.  R,  B,  44),  and  Kingsland  Road  (PI.  B,  48-45) ;  2d. 

From  West  India  Docks  (PI.  B,  62).  26.  To  Cassland  Road  (PI.  B,  54; 
2V8  M.),  every  6V2  min.  via  Burdett  Road  (PI.  R,  63,  60),  Grove  Road,  and 
Victoria  Park  (PI.  B,  55,  59) ;  yellow  cars,  2d. 

From  Bow  Bridge  (PI.  B,  68).  27.  To  Lettonstone,  via  Stratford  High 
St.,  Maryland  Station,  and  Leytonstone  Road;  blue  cars,  2d.  —  28.  To 
Manor  Park,  via  Stratford  High  St.  and  Romford  Road;  green  cars,  2d. 

The  outlying  tramways  of  the  Weet  Ham  Corporation  and  the  WaUhamttoto 
District  Council  to  the  E.  and  N.E.  of  London  are  of  no  practical  import- 
ance for  the  tourist,  and  are  sufficiently  indicated  in  our  Railway  and  Tram- 
way Plan  in  the  Appendix. 

The  Highgate  Cable  Tramway  from  the  Archway  Tavern  (p.  373)  to  the 
top  of  Highgate  Hill  (fare  Id.),  opened  in  1884,  was  the  first  of  the  kind  in 
Europe. 

South  Side  of  the  Thames. 

From  Victoria  Station  (PL  G,  21)  via  Vauxhall  Bridge  Road  and  over 
Vauxhall  Bridge  (PI.  G,  26).  —  29.  To  Catford  (8  M.),  every  6  min.  via 
Kennington  Oval  (PI.  G,  80),  Camberwell  New  Road.  Camberwell  Green 
(PL  G,  39),  Peckham  Road,  Queen's  Road  (PL  G,  51,  56),  New  Cross  Station 
(PI.  G,  59),  and  Lewisham  High  Road  (PL  G,  59,  64);  4d.  —  30.  To  Dulwich 
and  Peckham  Rye  (6  M.)  every  12  min.  (every  6  min.  to  Goose  Green),  as 
above  to  CamberweU  Green  (PL  G,  39),  thea  via  Denmark  Hill  (PL  G,  40), 
Grove  Lane,  and  Goose  Green  (E.  Uulwich),  to  Stuart  Road  (Peckham  Rye); 
2d.  to  Dulwich.  2V2d.  to  Stuart  Road. 

From  Vauxhall  Bridge  (PL  G,  26).  31.  To  Wandsworth  (Fatt  Hill; 
31/2  M.)  via  Wandsworth  Road  (PL  G,  26,27,  24)  and  Lavender  Hill;  every 
6  min.,  2d.  —  From  Chelsea  Bridge  (PL  G,  18).  32.  To  Lavender  Hill 
(3/4  M.)  via  Queen's  Road  (PL  G,  19,  20;  Battersea  Park);  every  10  min., 
Vad.     These  two  are  horse-car  lines. 

From  Victoria  Embankment  (Charing  Crou  BtaHon;  PL  R,  30)  and  over 
Westminster  Bridge  (PL  R,  29).    33.  To  Streatham  {Telford  Avenue;  5  M.), 


6.  TRAMWAYS.  23 

every  6  min.  via  Kennington  Road  (PL  G,  33,  34),  Brixton  Road  (PI.  G, 
31,  32),  and  Brixton  Hill;  2Vad.  —  34.  To  Rye  Lane  (4Vb  M.),  everj  8  min. 
in  the  morning  and  evening  only  viSk  Westminster  Bridge  Road,  ^Rlepliant 
&  Castle*  (PL  G,  33,  37),  Walworth  Road  (PI.  G,  37,  38),  Camberwell  Green 
(PL  G.  39),  and  Peckham  Road^  2d.  --  35.  To  Tower  Bridge  (PL  R,  46 j 
2'/8  M.),  every  9  min.  via  Westminster  Bridge  Road,  'Elephant  &  Castle 
(PL  G,  33),  New  Kent  Road,  and  Tower  Bridge  Roadj  V/^. 

From  Victoria  Embankment  ( fTateWoo  Bridge^  PL  a,  3l0  and  over  West- 
minster Bridge  (PL  R,  S9).  36.  To  Blackwall  Tunnel  (PL  R,  70;  8V4  M.), 
every  9  min.  vial  Westminster  Bridge  Road,  'Elephant  &  Castle'  (PL  G,  33), 
New  Kent  Road,  Old  Kent  Road  (PL  G,  46),  New  Cross  Road,  Green- 
wich Road  (PL  G,  67),  and  East  Greenwich;  3V2d.  —  37.  To  Blackwall 
(Tunnel  Avenue,  PL  R,  70;  8V2  M.),  every  6  min.  viS  Westminster  Bridge 
Road,  Kennington  Road  (PL  G,  33,  34),  Camberwell  Green  (PL  G,  39), 
Peckham  Road,  Queen's  Road,  end  Kew  Cross  Road  (PL  G,  55)  and  thence 
as  in  No.  86 ;  31/2^. 

From  Victoria  Embankment  (/oAn  Carpenter  St. ;  PL  R,  35)  and  over 
Westminster  Bridge  (PL  R,  39).  38.  To  Clapham  Junction  (beyond  PL  G, 
16;  5V2  M.),  every  6  min.  viai  Lambeth  Palace  Road,  Albert  Embankment 
(PL  G,  29),  Nine  Elms  Lane  (PL  G,  26),  Battersea  Park  Road  (PL  G,  23, 19, 
16),  and  Falcon  Road  (PI.  G,  12) ;  2V2(«.  —  39.  To  Tooting  (7V2  M.),  every 
6  min.  via  Westminster  Bridge  Road,  Kennington  Road  (PI.  G,  33,  34), 
Clapham  Road  (PL  G,  31,  32),  Clapham  Rise  (PL  G,  28).  and  Balham ;  iJi/zci. 

—  40.  To  Stbeatham  (Telford  Avenue;  6V2  M.),  every  6  min.  as  in  No.  33; 
31/2^.  —  41.  To  DuLwicH  and  Peckham  Rye  (6  M.),  every  12  min.  (every 
6  min.  to  Goose  Green)  via  Westminster  Bridge  Road,  'Elephant  &  Castle' 
(PL  G,  33),  Walworth  Road,  Camberwell  Green  (PL  G,  39),  and  thence  as 
in  No.  30. 

From  Waterloo  Station  (PL  R,  30).  42.  To  Tooting  (6V4  M.),  via 
St.  George's  Circus  (PL  R,  33),  'Elephant  &  Castle*  (PL  G,  33),  Kenning- 
ton Park  Road,  Clapham  Road  (PL  G,  31.  32),  and  thence  as  in  No.  39;  3d. 

—  43.  To  New  Ceoss  Gate  (PL  G,  50;  872  M.),  via  'Elephant  &  Castle'  (a& 
above)  and  thence  as  in  Ko.36.  —  44.  To  Lee  Green  (7V4  M.),  every  6  min. 
vi4  'Elephant  &  Castle'  (as  above),  then  vi3l  Walworth  Road  to  Camber- 
well Green  (PL  G,  39),  and  thence  as  in  No.  29. 

From  Blaekfriars  Bridge  (PL  R,  34).  45.  To  Merton  (7  M.),  every  6  min. 
via  Black  friars  Road  and  St.  Georges  Circus  (PL  R,  33)  to  'Elephant  & 
Castle'  (PL  G,  H3),  and  thence  as  in  No.  42  to  Tooting  and  on  to  Mer- 
ton; S^/2d.  —  46.  To  Strbatham  (Telford  Avenue;  5V2  M.),  every  6  min.  via 
'Elephant  A  Castle'  (as  above),  Kennington  Park  Road,  Brixton  Road  (PL 
G,  31,  82),  and  Brixton  Hill;  'dd.  -  47.  To  New  Cross  Gate  (PL  G,  50; 
472  M),  every  6  min.  vi^  *Elephant  &  Castle'  (as  above)  and  thence  as  in 
No.  36;  2<?.  —  48.  To  Black  wall  (Tunnel  Avenue,  PL  R,  70;  6V4  M.)  every 
9  min.  vi&  'Elephant  A  Castle'  (as  above)  and  thence  as  in  No.  36;  li^/td. 

From  Sonthwark  Bridge  (PL  R,  38).  49.  To  Clapham  (Nightingale  Lane; 
4V2  M.),  every  4  min.  in  the  morning  and  evening  only  via  Southwark 
Biidge  Road,  'Elephant  &  Castle'  (PL  G,  33),  Kennington  Park  Road,  and 
Clapham  Road  (PL  G,  31,  28);  2<f.  —  50.  To  Streatham  (Telford  Avenue; 
672  M.),  every  5  or  6  min.  in  the  morning  and  evening  only  via  Kenning- 
ton Park  Road  (as  above)  and  Brixton  Road  (PL  G,  31,  32);  Sd.  —  51.  To 
Ddlwich  (Lordehip  Lane;  4V2  M.),  every  6  min.  in  the  morning  and  even- 
ing only  via  'Elephant  &  Castle'  (as  above)  and  thence  as  in  No.  41.  —  62. 
To  Catfoed  (6V2  M.),  every  6  min.  (every  2  min.  to  Asylum  Road,  PL  G,  51) 
via  Marshalsea  St ,  St.  George's  Church  (PL  R,  37),  Great  Dover  St.,  Old 
Kent  Road  (PL  G,  41,  46),  New  Cross  Station  (PL  G,  59),  and  thence  as  in 
No.  29;  3(1. 

From  St  George's  Ohuroh  (Borough;  PL  R,  37).  63.  To  Streatham 
(Telford  Avenue;  b^/^  M.),  every  6  min.  via  Borough  High  St.  to  'Elephant 
A  Castle'  (PL  G,83)  and  thence  as  in  No.  46;  3d.  —  54.  To  Camberwell 
Green  (PL  G,  39;  2  M.),  every  8  min.  via  'Elephant  &  Castle'  (as  above) 
and  thence  as  in  No.  34. 

From  London  Bridge  (Hop  Exchange,  PL  R,  38).  55.  To  Tooting 
Junction  (9V4  M.),  every  6  min.  via  Sonthwark  St.,  Southwark  Bridge  Road, 


24  6.  TRAMWAYS. 

St.  George's  Circus  (PI.  B,  33),  Lambeth  Boad,  Albert  Embankment  (PI. 
G,  29),  Battersea  Park  Boad  (PI.  G,  23. 19, 16),  York  Boad  (PI.  G,  12),  High 
St.,  Wandsworth,  and  Garratt  Lane;  4Varf. 

The  following  are  horse-car  lines.  --  56.  From  Tooley  St.  (PI.  B,  42) 
to  Deptfobd  (Evelyn  Street,  PI.  G,  62-,  31/4  M.),  every  AVa  ™iii-  ▼!»  Jamaica 
Boad  (PI,  B,  46,  49)  and  Deptford  Lower  Boad  (PI,  G.  53,  58);  id.  —  57. 
From  Bricklayers'  Arms  (PI.  G,  41)  to  Both£Bhithb  (2  M.),  every  9  min. 
viH  Southwark  Park  Boad;  Id.  —  58.  From  Blaokwall  (Tunnel  Avenue; 
PI.  B,  70)  to  Beresford  Square,  Woolwich  (V/2  M.),  every  6  m'n.  via  Wool- 
wich Lower  Boad;  IVjk*. 

59.  From  Brixton  Boad  (beyond  PI.  G,  32)  to  Norwood  (3  M.),  every 
10  min.  via  Gresham  Boa(3,  Loughborough  Junction  (PI.  G.  86),  Milkwood 
Boad,  and  Norwood  Boad ;  2d.  —  60.  From  Oamberwell  Ghreen  (PI.  G,  39) 
to  Loughborough  Junction  (PI.  G,  36;  8/4  M.),  every  10  min.  via  Coldharbour 
Lane  (PI.  G,40);  ^M 

Suburban  Elbctbic  Taamwats. 
The  service  Is  maintained  from  about  7.30  a.m.  (9  or  9.30  on 
Sun.)  tin  after  midnight  on  most  of  the  routes ;  but  after  9  oi  10  p.in. 
the  cars  ply  less  frequently  than  is  Indicated  below. 

London  United  Tbamwats  Co. 

From  Shepherd's  Bush.  60.  To  Southall  via  Acton,  Ealing,  and  Hanwell, 
every  10  min.  in  50  min.  (fare  3d.).  There  is  also  a  service  every 
3  min.  to  Hanwell  (40  min.;  2d.).  —  61.  To  Hounslow  Heath  via 
Chitteick  High  Road,  Keie  Bridge,  Brentford,  and  Itleworth,  every  12  min. 
in  1  hr.  (4d.).  To  Kew  Bridge  (23  min.)  every  81/2  min.  (2d.).  —  62.  To 
Hampton  Court  via  Jsleworth,  Twickenham,  and  Hampton,  every  V4  hr. 
in  11/3  hr   (6d.). 

From  Hammersmith.  63.  To  Uxbeidgb  vi^  Southall  (No.  60)  and  Hapet, 
every  V4  hr.  in  IV2  hr.  (6d.).  To  Hanwell  PA  hr.)  every  7V2  min.  (2d.).  — 
64.  To  Hounslow  Heath  as  in  No.  61,  every  12  min.  in  55  min.  (4d.). 
To  Kew  Bridge  (20  m"n.)  every  31/2  min.  (2d.).  —  65.  To  Hampton  Court 
every  1/4  hr.  in  I74  hr. ;  route  and  fares  as  Ko.  62. 

From  Tooting.  66.  To  Richmond  Bbtdgb  viH  Winibledon  (branch  to 
Summerstown),  New  Maiden,  Norhiton^  Kingtton,  Hampton  Wick,  Tedding- 
ton,  and  Twickenham,  every  10  min.  in  I72  hr.  (6d.).  —  67.  To  Hampton 
Court  via  Kingston  (as  above)  and  to  the  S.  of  Bushy  Park,  every 
10  min.  in  1  hr.  8  min.  (4d  ). 

From  Richmond  Park  Gates  (Kingston).  68.  To  Tolworth  via  Kingston 
and  Surbiton,  every  10  min.  in  ^/z  hr.  (Id.).  —  From  Ham  Boundary. 
69.  To  Long  Ditton  ( Window''8  Bridge)  via  Kingston  and  Surbiton,  every 
10  min.  in  1/2  ^^»  (id.).  —  From  Kingston  Hill.  70.  To  Surbiton 
Station  via  Kingston,  every  10  min.  in  25  min.  (Id). 

From  Richmond  to  Kew  and  to  Hampton  Court,  see  p.  411. 

Metropolitan  Electbio  Tbamways  Co. 
From  lock  Bridge  (PI.  R,  4).    71.  To  Iron  Bridge,  Wembley  (fare  2d.),  vi^ 

Harlesden.  —  72.  To  Willksden  Green  Station  (4d.),  via  Harlesden. 
From  Willesden  Junction.    73.  To   Hendon  Station  (3d.),  via  Willesden 

Green  Station  and  Criclclewood. 
From  Willesden  Green  Station.     74.  To  Edgware  (Canon''s  Park;  4d.)  via 

Cricklewood  and  Hendon. 
From  Highgate  (Archway  Tavern).  75.  To  Barnet  (fare4d.)  via  East  Finchley. 
From  Finsbury  Park.    76.  To  Muswell  Hill  (2d.)  via  Turnpike  Lane.  — 

77.  To  Alexandra  Palacb  (2d.)  via  Wood  Green  Station  (i^hd.).  — 

78.  To  New  Southgatb  (2d.)  via  Wood  Green.  —  79.  To  Winchmoee 
Hill  (3d.)  via  Wood  Green.  —  80.  To  Bruce  Grove  (2d.)  visl  Wood 
Green.  —  81.  To  Edmonton  (Tramway  Avinue;  3d.)  via  Amhurst  Park 
and  Snell's  Park, 


7.  RAILWAY  TKRMINI.  25 

From  Stamford  Hill.   82.  To  Edmomom  (3d.)  via  South  Tottenham  Station 

and  Bruce  Grove. 
From  Edmonton.    83.  To  Countt  Boundaet  (Id.)  at  Waltham  Cross. 

South  Mbtkopolitan  Elbcteic  Tbamways  Co. 

From  Tooting  Junction.    84.  To  Sotton  vift  Mitcham,  Croydon^  WalUnglonj 

and  CarthaltoiK  every  4-8  min.  (IO1/4  M. ;  fare  4d.). 
From  the  CrvBtal  Palace.   85.  To  Cbotdon  vift  PengSy  AnerUy^  and  Norwood, 

every  4-8  min.  (5  M. }  2V2d.). 

Coachei.  During  the  summer-months  well-appointed  stage 
coaches  run  from  London  to  various  places  In  the  vicinity,u8nally  start- 
ing from  Northumherland  A-venue  between  10.80  a.m.  and  12  noou. 
The  fares  Tary  from  5«.  6d.  to  15*.  j  return-fares  one-half  or  two-thirds 
more ;  box-seats  usually  2«.6c{.  extra  each  way.  Some  of  these  coaches 
are  driven  by  the  gentlemen  who  own  them.  They  afford  better 
opportunities  in  many  respects  for  viewing  the  scenery  than  railway- 
trains,  and  may  be  recommended  in  fine  weather.  On  the  more 
popular  routes  seats  have  often  to  be  booked  seyeral  days  in  ad- 
yance.  The  whole  coach  may  generally  be  engaged  for  seven  to  ten 
guineas.  Particulars  may  be  obtained  on  application  at  Cook's  Rail- 
way &  Steamship  Office,  in  the  H6tel  Victoria,  Northumberland 
Avenue. 

Among  the  places  to-  which  coaches  usually  run  are  Brighton  (53  M. ; 
fare  15<.),  Hampton  Court  (16  M. ;  return-fare  10».  6d.),  and  Windtor  (30  M.  \ 
12«.  6d.,  return  17«.  6d.).  —  The  coaches  to  Atcot  (30  M.),  Bfuhty  (16  M.), 
Ociham  (32  M.),  8t,  Albans  (25  M.),  Dorking  (26  M.),  Guildford  (28  M.),  Box 
Hill  (27  M.),  and  Virginia  Water  (29  M.)  do  not  run  every  season.  Coaches 
run  also  to  the  principal  race-meetings  held  near  London. 


7.  Eailway  Termini  and  Suburban  Trains. 

The  following  are  the  chief  Terminal  Railway  Stations  in  Lon- 
don, besides  which  there  are  about  380  small  stations  for  local  and 
suburban  traffic  within  'Greater  London',  without  reckoning  the  un- 
derground stations. 

I.  Euston  Station  (PI.  B,  24,  28),  the  terminus  of  the  London 
AND  NoBTH  Western  Railway,  Euston  Square,  near  Euston  Road 
and  Tottenham  Court  Road.  Trains  for  Rugby^  Crewe,  Chester, 
Bangor,  Holyhead  (whence  steamers  to  Ireland)-,  Birmingham, 
Shrewsbury,  Stafford,  Leicester,  Derby,  Nottingham,  Lincoln,  Leeds, 
Hull;  Liverpool,  Manchester;  Carlisle,  Glasgow,  Edinburgh,  etc.  — 
SuBXTABAN  TRAINS  to  Chalk  Farm,  Loudoun  Road,  KUbum  ^  Maida 
VaXe,  Queen's  Park,Willesden  Junction,  Sudbury ^^Wewi)ley,  Harrow, 
Stanmore,  Pinner,  Bushey,  Watford,  Rickmansworih,  and  St.  Albans. 

U.  St.  Pancrae  Station  (PL  B,  28),  Euston  Road,  to  the  W.  of 
King's  Cross  Station,  the  terminus  of  the  Midland  Railway. 
Trains  for  Bedford,  Leicester,  Nottingham,  Derby,  Manchester, 
Liverpool,  Blackburn,  Chesterfield,  Sheffield,  Hull,  York,  Leeds, 
Bradford,   Newcastle;    Glasgow,    Edinburgh,    etc.  —   Sububbak 


26  7.  RAILWAY  TEBMINI. 

Trains  for  Camden  Road^  Kentish  Tovm^  Haverstodt  Hill^  Finchley 
Roadf  West  Hampstead,  Crieklewoodj  and  Hendon;  Highgate  Rocid, 
Junction  Boad,  Upper  Holloway,  Homsey  Road,  Crouch  Hill^  Har- 
ringay  Park^  St.  Ann*8,  South  Tottenham;  Walthamstow,  Leytonstone^ 
East  Hamj  Barking,  Upminster;  Southend^  etc. 

III.  Xing'"  Croat  Station  (PI.  B,  31,  32),  Enston  Road,  ter- 
minus  of  the  Gbbat  Nobthebn  Railway.  Trains  for  the  N.  and 
N.E. :  York,  Newcastle,  Edinburgh;  Hull,  Leeds,  Sheffield,  Man- 
chester, Liverpool ;  Cambridge,  Luton,  Hertford,  Lir^oln.  —  Sub- 
urban Trains  to  Holloway,  Finsbury  Park,  Stroud  Qreen,  Crouch 
End,  Highgate  (branch  to  Muswell  Hill  and  Alexandra  Palace), 
Finchley,  Mill  Hill,  and  Edgware ;  Harringay,  Homsey,  Wood  Green 
(branch  to  New  Barnet  and  Hatfield),  etc. 

IV.  Marylebone  Station  (Pi.  R,  16),  the  London  terminus  of 
the  Great  Central  Railway,  for  the  N.,  N.W.,  &  N.E.  of  England 
and  for  Scotland  (trains  start  from  the  W.  side  of  the  station). 
Trains  to  Brackley,  Rugby,  Lutterworth,  Leicester,  Loughborough, 
Nottingham,  Chesterfield,  Sheffield,  Doncaster,  Rotherham,  Bamsley, 
Huddersfield,  Halifax,  Bradford,  York,  Darlington,  Newcastle, 
Scarborough,  Wor'csop,  Gainsborough,  Lincoln,  Retford,  Grimsby, 
Cleetliorpes ,  Hull,  Manchester,  Warrington,  Liverpool,  Stockport, 
Oldham,  Ashton ' under 'Lyne,  Staleybridge ,  St.  Helens,  Wigan, 
Chester,  Southport,  Glasgow,  and  Edinburgh,  -^  Suburban  Trains 
for  Wenibley  Hill,  Sudbury,  and  South  Harrow,  Ruislip  ^  Jckehham, 
Denham,  Beaconsfield,  and  High  Wycombe;  for  Harrow,  Pinner, 
Northwood,  etc.  (see  pp.  420,  421),  and  Aylesbury. 

v.  Paddinsrton  Station  (PI.  R,  11,  12),  terminus  of  the  Great 
Western  Railway  for  the  W.  and  S.W.  of  England  (trains  start 
from  the  W.  side  of  the  station).  Trains  to  Cheltenham,  Glou- 
cester, Bath,  Bristol,  Exeter;  Plymouth,  Falmouth;  Newport,  Car- 
diff, Swanseay  Fishguard  (whence  steamers  to  Ireland);  Oxford, 
Leamington,  Warwick,  Strat ford-on- Avon ,  Birmingham,  Chester, 
Liverpool,  Mancfiester,  etc.  —  Suburban  Trains  to  Westboume 
Park,  Acton,  Ealing,  HanweU  ^  Elthome,  Southall,  Brentford,  TJx- 
bridge;  Green  ford,  Ruislip  and  Ickenham,  Denham,  Beaconsfield, 
High  Wycombe;  Stairies;  Maidenhead,  HerUey;  Great  Marlow;  Ayles- 
bury ;  Windsor ;  Reading,  etc. 

YI.  Liverpool  Street  Station  (PI.  R,  44 ;  III),  near  Blshopsgate 
Street,  terminus  of  the  Great  Eastern  Railway  (18  platforms, 
20  lines,  nearly  1000  trains  per  day).  Trains  to  Southend,  Chelms- 
ford, Colchester,  Harwich,  Ipswich,  Norwich,  Cromer,  Lowestoft,  Yar- 
mouth ;  Cambridge,  Ely,  Lynn,  Wisbech,  Peterborough,  Lincoln,  Don- 
caster,  York,  etc.  —  Suburban  Trains  to  Bethnal  Green,  Cambridge 
Heath,  London  Fields,  Hackney  Downs,  Rectory  Road,  Stoke  New- 
ington,  Stamford  Hill,  Seven  Sisters,  Palace  Gates  (for  Alexandra 
Palace),  Edmonton,  Enfield;  Clapton,  Tottenham,  Enfield  Lock,  Walt- 
ham  Cross,  Ch€shuntj  Broxboume,  Rye  House,  Hertford ;  St,  James's 


7.  RAILWAY  TERMINI.  27 

Street,  Hoe  Street^  Wood  Street  (Walthamstow),  Chingford;  to  Eppirhg 
Forest  and  Ongar,  as  In  R.  42;  Forest  Oate,  Manor  Park,  Uford 
(brancli  to  Chigioell,  p.  414),  Seven  King's,  ChadwellHeath ;  Canning 
Town,  Victoria  and  Albert  Docks,  Silvertown,  North  Woolwich)  Shore- 
ditch,  Whitechapel,  Shadwell,  Wapping,  Rotherhithey  Deptford  Road, 
New  Cross,  Croydon^  etc. 

YII.  Broad  Street  Station  (PI.  R,  44;  III),  teminns  of  the 
North  London  Railway.  Trains  every  1/4  hr.  to  Shoreditch,  Hagger* 
ston,  Dalston,  and  thence  (to  the  W.)  \i4  Mildmay  Park,  Canon- 
bury,  Islington  #-  Highbury,  Bamsbury,  Maiden  Lane,  and  Camden 
Town,  to  Chalk  Farm,  on  the  L.  N.W.  railway.  Some  of  the  trains 
go  on  via  Loudon  Road,  Kilbum,  and  Queen's  Park  to  Willesden 
Junction  (low  level).  Also  OTcry  1/4  hr.  from  Broad  St.  via  Dalston 
(as  above)  and  thence  to  the  E.  via  Hackney,  Homerton,  Victoria 
Park,  Old  Ford,  Bow,  South  Bromley,  and  Poplar.  Another  service 
runs  every  1/2  ^r«  *o  Camden  Town  (as  above),  and  thence  via 
Kentish  Town,  Qospel  Oak  (for  Highgate ;  to  Chingford,  see  below), 
Hampttead  Heath,  Finchley  Road,  West  End  Lane,  Brondesbury, 
Salusbury  Road,  Kensal  Rise,  Willesden  Junction  (an  Important 
station  for  North  London,  stopped  at  by  many  of  the  express  trains 
of  the  L.  N.W.  railway),  Acton,  South  Acton  (branch  to  Hammer- 
smith Broadway,  for  Bedford  Park),  Hammersmith,  Qunnersbury, 
Kew  Bridge,  Kew  Gardens^  to  Richmond,  and  Kingston,  Trains  also 
run  every  1/2  ^r.  to  Dalston,  Highbury,  Camden  Town,  Kentish 
Town ;  thence  as  above  to  Willesden  Junction,  and  thence  to  St. 
Quintin  Park  &  Wormwood  Scrubs,  Uxbridge  Road  (for  Shepherd's 
Bush),  Kensington  {Addison  Road;  p.  28),  Sarins  Court,  South  Ken- 
sington, and  thence  by  the  Hnner  circle'  (p.  30)  to  Mansion  House, — 
Gospel  Oak  is  also  the  terminus  of  a  line  via  Highgate  Road,  Junction 
Road,  Upper  HoUoway,  Homsey  Road,  Crouch  Hill,  Harringay  Park, 
St.  Ann^s  Road,  South  Tottenham,  St.  James's  Street,  Hoe  Street, 
Wood  Street,  and  Higham's  Park,  to  Chingford. 

Yin.  Charing  Cross  Station  (PI.  R,  26 ;  //,  IV),  close  to  Tra- 
falgar Square,  one  of  the  West  End  termini  of  the  South  Eastbbn 
AND  Chatham  Railway  to  Tunbridge  Wells,  Hastings;  Dorking, 
Ouildford,  Reading;  Canterbury,  Ramsgate,  Margate,  Folkestone, 
Dover;  Rochester,  Mtddstone,  etc.  —  Sububban  Trains  to  Chislehurst, 
Sevcnoaiks,  Croydon;  Spa  Road,  Southwark  Park,  Deptford,  Greenwich, 
Woolwich,  Dart  ford,  Oravesend,  Chatham;  New  Cross,  Lewisham, 
Beckenham,  Bromley,  Bickley;  Blackheath,  Bexley  Heath,  Eriih;  Lee, 
Eltham,  Sidcup,  etc. 

IX.  Cannon  Street  Stetion  (PL  R,  39;  III),  near  the  Bank, 
City  terminus  for  the  same  lines  as  Charing  Cross.  Trains  from 
Charing  Cross  to  Cannon  Street,  and  vice  versd,  every  10  minutes. 

X.  Victoria  Station  (PI.  R,  G,  21;  IV),  in  Victoria  Street,  the 
terminus  of  the  London,  Brighton,  and  South  Coast  Railway, 
and  also  of  the  South  Eastbrn  and  Chatham  RaU'Way. 


28  7.    RAILWAY  TERMINI. 

1.  The  Chatham  Railway  (Main  Line),  to  Clapham^  Brixton^ 
Heme  Hill,  Dulwieh,  Sydenham  Hill,  Beekehhanij  Bromley j  BiekUy, 
Boeheiter,  Chathamj  Faversham,  Canterbury,  Dover,  Leal;  Queen- 
borough',  Sheemeu;  Heme  Bay,  Margate,  Broaditairs,  Ramsgate; 
Swanley,  8evenoak$,  Maidstone,  and  Athford. 

2.  The  Crystal  Palaob  branch  of  the  S.  E.  &  C.  B. :  stations 
Wandsworth  Roady  Clapham^  Brixton,  Denmark  Hill,  Peckham  Rye, 
Nunhead ,  Honor  Oak,  Lordship  Lane ,  Upper  Sydenham,  Crystal 
Palace  (High  Level  Station). 

3.  The  Mbtbopolitan  Extension,  to  Ludgate  HiU  and  HoU 
bom  Viaduct  Station,'  via  Orosvenor  Road,  Battersea  Park  Road, 
Wandsworth  Road,  Clapham  ^  North  StoekweU ,  Brixton  ^  South 
Stoekwell,  Loughborough  Junction,  Camberwell  New  Road,  Wal- 
worth Road,  Elephant  and  Castle,  and  Borough  Road;  also  through- 
trains  to  King's  Cross  (Metropolitan).  From  Longhhorongh  Junction 
a  branch  runs  to  Heme  Hill,  Dulwich,  Sydenham  Hill,  Penge,  Kent 
House,  and  Beckenham. 

4.  The  West  London  Extension,  via  Battersea,  Chelsea,  West 
Brompton,  to  Kensington  (Addison  Road),  where  there  are  connec- 
tions for  Ealing,  Southall,  and  Windsor,  for  Euston,  and  for  the  N. 
London  Railway  (see  p.  27)  to  Ealing  and  SouthaU  (G.W.B.). 

5.  The  Bbighton  and  South  Coast  Railway,  yiai  Clapham 
Junction  (a  most  important  station  for  South  London,  through 
which  1200  trains  pass  daily),  Wandsworth  Common,  Balham, 
Streatham  Hill,  West  Norwood,  Gipsy  Hill,  and  Crystal  Palace 
(Low  Level  Station),  to  Norwood  Jurhction  (p.  29),  or  by  Clapham 
Junction,  Wandsworth  Common,  Balham,  Streatham  Common, 
Norbury,  Thornton  Heath,  and  Selhurst  to  Croydon  (p.  29).  At 
Norwood  Junction  and  Croydon  the  line  joins  the  London  Bridge 
and  Brighton  Line. 

6.  South  London  Line,  vil  Battersea  Park,  Wandsworth  Road, 
Clapham  Road,  East  Brixton,  Denmark  Hill,  Peckham  Rye,  Queen's 
Road,  Old  Kent  Road,  and  South  Bermondsey,  to  London  Bridge, 

XL  Ludgate  HiU  Station  (PI.  R,  35;  11),  near  St.  Paul's  Cathe- 
dral and  Blackfiiars  Bridge,  City  station  of  the  Metbopolitan 
Extension  of  the  South  Eastern  and  Chatham  Railway  (see  above). 

XII.  Holborn  Viaduct  Station  (PI.  R,  36 ;  IT),  Holborn  Viaduct, 
City  terminus  for  the  main  line  trains  of  the  South  Eastern  and 
Chatham  Railway. 

XIII.  St.  Paul's  Station  (PI.  R,  36 ;  IT),  Queen  Victoria  Street, 
another  terminus  of  the  South  Eastern  and  Chatham  Railway,  for 
the  Main  Line,  Cat  ford,  and  Crystal  Palace  trains. 

XIV.  Fenchurch  Street  Station  (PL  R,  43;  IlT),  near  the  Bank 
(S.  side  of  Fenchurch  St.),  terminus  of  the  Blackwall  Railway  to 
Shadwell,  Stepney,  Limehouse,  West  India  Docks,  Poplar,  and  Black- 
wall,  and  of  the  Tilbury,  Gravbsbnd,  and  Southend  Railway. 
SuBUBBAN  Trains  run  vi&  Leman  Street ,  Shadwell,  Stepney,  Burdett 


7.   RAILWAY  TERMINI.  29 

Road^  and  Bow  Roady  l)eyond  whloh  they  Join  the  line  from  Liver- 
pool Street  Station  (p.  26).  Trains  also  to  Bromley,  West  Ham, 
PlaiMtoWy  Upton  Park,  East  Ham^  and  Barking ;  to  Limehouse,  West 
India  Docks,  Millwall,  and  North  Oreenwich, 

XY.  Baker  Street  Station  (PI.  R,  20),  of  the  Metropolitan 
Railway  (p.  30),  practically  ranks  among  the  London  termini  since 
the  extension  of  the  St.  John's  Wood  line  to  Harrow  (branch  thence 
to  Uxhridge),  Pinner,  Northwood,  Rickmaneworth,  Chesham,  and 
Aylesharxj  (comp.  R.  44). 

On  the  right  (S.)  hank  of  the  Thames :  — 

XYI.  London  Bridge  Station  (PI.  R,  42),  the  City  terminus  of 
the  Bbighton  and  South  Coast  Railway  ,  via  Norwood  Junction 
(p.  28),  Croydon  (p.  28),  Parley  (junction  for  Caterham),  Red 
HiU  Junction  (branch  W.  for  Reigate,  Box  Hill,  Aixd.  Dorking  j  E.  for 
Dover"),  Three  Bridges  (for  Arundef),  AndiHayward^s  Heath  (junction 
for  Letdes  and  Newhaven),  to  Brighton,  Also  to  Chichester  and 
Portsmouth  for  the  Isle  of  Wight,  —  Suburban  Tbains  to  New 
Cross,  Brockley,  Honor  Oak  Park,  Forest  HiU,  Syder^m  (Crystal 
Palace),  Penge,  and  Anerley;  to  Victoria  Station,  see  p.  28. 

XVII.  Waterloo  Station  (PL  R,  30, 34),  Waterloo  Road,  Lambeth, 
terminus  of  the  South  Wbstbbn  Railway  to  Winchester^  Southampton, 
Portsmouth  (Isle  of  Wight);  Bowmemovih;  Salisbury,  Exeter,  Ply- 
mouth, Barnstable,  Ufracombe.  —  Suburban  Trains  to  Vauxhall, 
Queens  Road,  Clapham  Junction  (p.  28),  Wandsworth,  Putney, 
Ba'^Hes,  Mortlake,  Richmond,  SU  Margaret's,  Twickenham,  Straw- 
berry  Hill,  Teddington,  Hampton  Wick,  and  Kingston;  yii  Barnes 
(see  above)  to  Chiswick,  Kew  Bridge,  Brentford,  Isleworth^  Hounslow^ 
and  Feltham.  Another  route  to  Richmond  leads  via  Vaiuxhall, 
Queen's  Road,  Battersea,  Chelsea,  West  Brompton,  and  Kensington 
(Addison  Road),  and  thence  as  on  p.  27.  Also,  tIH  Clapham  Junction, 
Earlsfield,  Wimbledon,  Raynes  Park  (branch  to  Hampton  Court, 
see  R.  41),  Worcester  Park,  Ewell,  Epsom,  Ashstead,  and  Leatherhead, 
Wimbledon  (an  important  junction)  may  be  reached  hence  also  vil 
Wandsworth,  East  Putney,  Southflelds,  and  Wimbledon  Park, 

[Waterloo  Junction,  adjoining  Waterloo  terminus  on  the  E.,  is  a 
distinct  station  belonging  to  the  South  Eastern  &  Chatham  Railway.] 

8.  Undergronnd  Eailways. 

Within  the  last  few  years  the  4ntramuraP  traffic  of  London 
has  been  practically  revolutionized  by  the  development  of  the 
system  of  underground  tube-railways,  and  London  is  now  perhaps 
the  best  equipped  city  in  the  world  in  respect  of  convenient,  rapid, 
and  cheap  communication  between  the  most  important  quarters. 
The  underground  railway  system  includes,  in  the  first  place,  the 
old  Metropolitan  and  Metropolitan  District  Railways,  a  shallow 
underground  line  long  worked  by  steam-locomotives  but  electrified 


30  8.  UNDERGROUND  RAILWAYS. 

in  1905-6 ;  and,  in  the  second  place,  an  extensive  seiies  of  deep 
Tube  RaitwaySj  in  which  also  the  motive  power  is  electricity.  Most 
of  these  have  direct  communication  with  each  other  at  the  points 
of  intersection,  and  through- tickets  are  issued.  At  first,  in  order 
to  make  himself  acquainted  with  the  Metropolis,  the  stranger  will 
naturally  prefer  to  make  use  of  omnibuses  and  cabs,  but  when  his 
early  curiosity  is  satisfied  he  will  probably  often  avail  himself  of 
the  easy  and  economical  mode  of  travelling  afforded  by  the  under- 
ground electric  railways. 

I.  Metropolitan  and  Metropolitan  District  Bailwayi . 

These  lines,  which  for  the  most  part  run  under  the  houses  and 
streets  by  means  of  tunnels,  and  partly  also  through  cuttings  between 
high  walls,  together  form  a  complete  belt  (the  *inner  circle*)  round 
the  whole  of  the  inner  part  of  London,  while  yarious  branch-lines 
diverge  to  the  outlying  suburbs.  The  Midland,  Great  Western, 
Great  Northern,  and  South  Eastern  Railways  run  suburban  trains  in 
connection  with  the  Metropolitan  lines.  Portions  of  the  Metropolitan 
Railway  were  constructed  at  a  cost  of  1,000,OOOZ.  per  mile. 

Trains  run  on  the  'inner  circle*  in  both  directions  &om  5.30  a.m. 
to  nearly  midnight,  at  Intervals  of  3-10  min.  during  the  day,  and  of 
20  mln.  before  7  a.m.  and  after  9  p.m.  On  Sundays  the  train-service 
is  suspended  during  the  'church  interval'  (11  a.m.-l  p.m.). 

The  stations  generally  occapy  open  sites  and  are  lighted  from  above, 
many  of  them  being  roofed  with  glass.  At  night  they  are  indicated  by 
illuminated  signs  bearing  the  word  ^Underground'.  The  booking-office  is 
generally  on  a  level  with  the  street,  at  the  top  of  the  flight  of  stairs 
leading  down  to  the  railway.  The  official  who  checks  the  tickets  points 
out  the  right  platrorm,  while  the  tickets  themselves  are  marked  with  a 
large  red  O  or  I  (for  'outer'  and  'inner'  line  of  rails),  corresponding  with 
notices  in  the  stations.  After  reaching  the  platform  the  traveller  had 
better  enquire  whether  the  train  for  his  destination  is  the  first  that  comes 
up  or  one  of  those  that  follow,  or  consult  the  somewhat  inconspicuous 
telegraph-board  on  which  the  destination  of  the  'next  train*  is  indicated. 
The  terminus  towards  which  the  train  is  travelling  is  also  generally 
placarded  on  the  front  of  the  engine.  The  names  of  the  stations  are 
called  out  by  the  porters,  and  are  always  painted  at  different  parts  of 
the  platform  and  on  the  lamps  and  benches,  though  frequently  difficult 
to  distinguish  from  the  surrounding  advertisements.  As  the  stoppages  are 
extremely  brief,  no  time  should  be  lost  either  in  taking  seats  or  alight- 
ing. Passengers  leave  the  platform  by  the  'Way  Out\  where  their  tickets 
are  given  up.  Those  who  are  travelling  with  through-tickets  to  a  station 
situated  on  one  of  the  branch-lines  show  their  tickets  at  the  junction 
where  carriages  are  changed,  and  where  the  officials  will  indicate  the 
proper  train.  —  Comp.  the  time-tables  of  the  companies. 

The  carriages  are  of  first  and  third  class  only,  the  former  usually  being 
in  the  middle  of  the  train.  The  third  class  is  apt  to  be  inconveniently 
crowded  between  8  and  10  a.m.  and  5  and  7  p.m.  by  passengers  going  to 
or  returning  from  their  daily  work.  The  fares  are  extremely  moderate, 
seldom  exceeding  a  shilling  even  for  considerable  distances.  Return- 
tickets  are  issued  at  a  fare  and  a  half. 

The  stations  on  the  'inner  circle',  beginning  at  the  E.  and 
thence  following  the  N.  curve  of  the  circle,  are  as  follows :  — 


8.  UNDERGBOUND  RAILWAYS.  31 

Mark  Lane  (Tl.  R,  43;  III),  for  the  Tower  of  London,  the  Mint, 
Com  Exchange,  Billingsgate,  and  the  Dockg. 

Aldgate  (PI.  R,  47 ;  i//),  Houndsditch,  corner  of  Leadenhall 
and  Fenchnrch  Streets,  for  the  Tower  Bridge,  Mincing  Lane,  White- 
chapel,  Miuories,  and  the  East  End. 

From  Aldgate  the  line  is  extended  to  AldgaU  East  and  8t.  Mary^t 
(Whitecbapel),  whence  the  trains  run  on  to  Shadwell^  Wappinff,  and  through 
the  Thames  Tunnel  (p.  142)  to  Rotherhithef  D^t/ord  Rotul^  and  Ifeic  CVo««, 
on  the  East  London  Railway.  Through-trains  run  between  New  Gross  and 
many  of  the  District  and  Metropolitan  stations.  A  line  runs  from  White- 
chapel  to  Bowj  connecting  with  the  railway  to  Southend. 

Bifhopsgate  (PI.  R,  44;  III),  near  the  Liverpool  Street  (Great 
Eastern;  sahway)  and  Broad  Street  (North  London)  gtations,  for  the 
Royal  Exchange  and  Stock  Exchange. 

Moorgate  Street  (PI.  R,  40;  III),  close  to  Finsbury  Circns, 
5  min.  from  the  Bank,  chief  station  for  the  City.  Change  for  City 
^  South  London  and  Great  Northern  ^  City  Tubes  (p.  37). 

Alderfgate  Street  (PI.  R,  40),  Long  Lane,  near  the  General  Post 
Office  and  Smithfield  Market ;  change  for  Lndgate  Hill  terminus 
of  the  Sonth  Eastern  and  Chatham  Railway  (p.  28). 

Farringdon  Street  (PI.  R,  36),  Vi  M.  to  the  N.  of  Holboru 
Viaduct,  for  Smithfield  and  St.  Bartholomew's;  trains  to  connect 
with  J7o^om  Viaduct  and  LudgaU  Hill  stations  (see  p.  28). 

Sing's  Croff  (PL  B,  32),  comer  of  Pentonvllle  Road  and  Gray's 
Inn  Road,  connected  by  sabway  with  the  Great  Northern  terminus 
(p.  26).  Change  also  for  St  Pancras  station  (Midland  Railway 
terminus,  p.  26)  and  for  the  City  ^  South  London  and  the  PiccadiUy 
Tubes  (pp.  37,  35). 

Gk>wer  Street  (PI.  B,  28),  near  Euston  Station  (L.  &  N.W. 
terminus,  p.  25)  and  about  V2  ^*  f^om  the  British  Museum. 

Portland  Bead  (PL  R,  20),  Park  Square,  at  the  S.E.  angle  of 
Regent's  Park,  for  the  Zoological  Gardens  (V2  M.),  Queen's  Hall, 
St.  James's  Hall,  and  St.  George's  Hall. 

Baker  Street  (PL  R,  20;  comp.  p.  29),  comer  of  York  Place, 
another  station  for  the  Botanic  and  Zoological  Gardens  and  for  Mme. 
Tussaud's  (p.  48).  A  little  to  the  S.,  in  Manchester  Square,  is  the 
Wallace  Collection  (p.  275).  Change  for  the  Baker  Street  ^  Water- 
loo Tube  (p.  34). 

Bbabch  Link  to  St.  John*$  Wood,R{cbnatuwcrth,  vid  ApleOniry,  see  R.  44. 

Edgware  Bead  (PI.  R,  16),  Chapel  Street. 

Bbahch  Link  to  Biihop't  Road,  Royal  Oak,  Wes(boum€  Pari,  Hotting 
Hill  (the  last  two  stations  are  both  near  Eensal  Green  Cemetery),  Latimer 
Road,  Wood  Lane  (station  for  the  Franco -British  Exhibition  in  1908), 
Sh^herd's  Btuh,  Hammersmith  (trains  every  10  min.);  also  to  Twmkam 
Green  (Bedford  Park),  Ounnersbury,  Kew  Gardens.  Richmond  (trains  every 
half-hour,  from  Bishop's  Eoad  to  Richmond  in  84  min.).  —  From  Latimer 
Road  branch-line  to  the  left  to  Uxhridge  Road,  Addison  Road  {Kensington ; 
for  Olympia,  p.  49),  EtarVs  Court,  and  Bron^ton  (Gloucester  Road),  see 
p.  32 ;  trains  every  »/»  hr. 

Praed  Street,  Faddlngton  (PL  R,  11),  opposite  the  Great 
Western  Hotel  and  the  Paddington  Station  (p.  26  j  subway). 


32  8.  UNDERGROUND  RAILWAYS. 

Queen's  Boad,  Bayswater  (PI.  B,  7),  for  KenBington  Gardens. 

NoUing  HiU  Gate  (PI.  R,  2),  Nottlng  Hill  High  Street,  for  the 
E.  part  of  Netting  Hill,  Gampaen  Hill,  etc. 

High  Street,  Kensington  (PI.  R,  5),  for  Kensington  Palace  and 
Gardens,  Holland  House  and  Park  ( Vs  M.),  and  the  Albert  Hall  (3/4  M.). 

Gloucester  Boad,  Brompton  (PL  G,  6).  Change  for  Piccadilly 
Tube  (p.  36). 

Bbamgh  Lihbs:  To  EarVt  Courts  West  Brompton,  Watham  Oreen  (for 
Stamford  Bridge  Athletic  Grounds),  ParsorC$  Oreen  (for  Hurlingham  Park), 
Futnep  Bridge,  East  Putneg^  Bouthfields,  WimibUdcn  Park,  and  Wimbledon; 
to  EarVt  Courts  West  KenHngtony  Hammersmith^  Raoenseourt  Park^  Tumham 
Oreen,  OwmersburVj  Eew  Gardens,  and  Richmond;  to  BarVs  Court,  Addison 
Road,  Latimer  Road,  etc.  (see  p.  81);  to  EarVs  Court,  Addison  Road ^  Willes- 
den  Junction,  Broad  Street  (see  p.  27).  From  Tumham  Ghreen  a  branch  runs  to 
aUswiek  Park,  MiU  HiU  Park  (p.  417).   Baling  Common,  and  BaUng  ( Broadway). 

South  Kensington  (PL  G,  9),  Pelham  St.,  for  South  Kensington 
Museum  (3  min.  to  the  N.),  Natural  History  Museum,  Albert  Hall, 
Albert  Memorial,  Brompton  Oratory,  and  Imperial  Institute.  Change 
for  Piccadilly  Tube  (p.  35). 

Sloane  Square  (PL  G,  17),  for  Chelsea  Hospital  and  Royal  Court 
Theatre. 

Victoria  (PL  R,  21;  IV),  opposite  Victoria  Terminus  (p.  27), 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  subway ;  Vi  ^-  ^^^  Buckingham 
Palace  and  within  5  min.  of  Westminster  Cathedral.  Tramway  to 
Kennington  Oval,  Greenwich,  Catford,  and  Dulwich. 

St.  James's  Park  (PL  R,  25 ;  J  K),  York  Street,  for  St.  James's  Park. 

Westminster  Bridge  (PL  R,  26;  IV),  at  the  W.  end  of  West- 
minster Bridge,  station  for  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  Westminster 
Abbey,  Whitehall,  etc.  From  Westminster  to  BlackMars  the  line 
runs  below  the  Victoria  Embankment  (p.  125). 

Charing  Cross  (PL  R,  30;  IV),  for  Charing  Cross,  Trafalgar 
Square,  National  Gallery,  National  Portrait  Gallery,  and  West  Strand. 
Change  for  Baker  Street  ^  Waterloo  Tube  (p.  34). 

Temple  (PL  R,  31 ;  //),  between  Somerset  House  and  the 
Temple,  below  Waterloo  Bridge,  station  for  the  Law  Courts,  Somerset 
House,  and  the  Victoria  Embankment. 

Blackfriars  (PL  R,  35 ;  //),  Bridge  Street,  adjacent  to  Blackfriars 
Bridge,  connected  by  a  covered  way  with  the  St.  Paul's  Station  of  the 
South  Eastern  Railway,  and  near  Ludgate  Hill  Station  (p.  28). 

Mansion  House  (PL  R,  39;  ///),  corner  of  Cannon  Street  and 
Queen  Victoria  Street,  station  for  St.  Paul's.  Omnibus  to  Liverpool 
Street  Station. 

Cannon  Street  (PL  R,  39 ;  ///),  below  the  terminus  of  the  South 
Eastern  Railway  (covered  way),  for  the  Bank  and  the  Exchange. 

The  Monument  (PL  R,  43;  III),  at  the  comer  of  Eastcheap, 
station  for  the  Monument,  London  Bridge,  and  the  Coal  Exchange. 


8.  UNDERGROUND  RAILWAYS.  33 


II.  Tube  Bailwayi. 

The  first  deep-level  electric  railway  in  London  was  opened  in 
1890,  but  the  effective  development  of  the  present  network  of  tube- 
tunnels  beneath  the  most  important  parts  of  the  Metropolis  dates 
only  from  the  last  four  or  five  years.  The  tunnels  lie  at  an  average 
depth  of  60  ft.  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  though  atFinsbnry 
Park  Station  the  depth  is  only  20  ft.,  while  at  Covent  Garden  it  is 
123  ft.  and  at  Hampstead  183  t\.  Trains  run  in  both  directions  every 
few  minutes  from  about  5.30  a.m.  till  abont  1  a.m.  (on  Sun.  from 
7.30  a.m.  till  midnight).  The  fares  are  low  (ld.-4<2.)  and  the  ar- 
rangements for  through-booking  are  convenient.  Gomp.  the  Railway 
Map  in  the  Appendix. 

The  booking  ofAceA,  on  the  street-level,  are  usually  faced  with  choco- 
late-coloured tiles  on  the  exterior,  and  are  indicated  at  night  by  illnminated 
signs  bearing  the  word  *Underground\  Passengers  are  conveyed  to  and 
from  the  platform-level  in  electric  lifts,  though  at  every  station  there  is 
also  a  staircase.  At  the  busier  stations  short-distance  tickets  (Id.  and  2d.} 
may  be  obtained  from  automatic  machines.  Return-tickets  are  not  issued, 
except  for  journeys  extending  to  some  other  railway-system  (e.g.  the  Metro- 
politan Railway).  Tickets  are  checked  by  the  liftman  on  entering  and  are 
collected  by  the  liftman  at  the  passenger's  destination.  In  the  well-lighted 
subterranean  passages  leading  from  the  lifts  to  the  trains  are  notices  direct- 
ing passengers  to  the  proper  platforms.  These  passages  are  often  draughty; 
while  the  difference  between  the  temperature  of  the  upper  air  and  that  of 
the  tubes  (which  are  warmer  in  winter  and  cooler  in  summer)  is  not  to  be 
ignored  by  those  who  catch  cold  easily.  On  the  whole,  the  tubes  are  fairly 
well  ventilated. 

The  carriages  are  of  one  class  only,  but  there  are  separate  carriages 
for  smokers.  The  stoppages  are  extremely  brief.  The  names  of  the  stations 
are  conspicuously  displayed  at  the  platforms  and  are  also  announced  by 
the  conductors  (not  always  plainly)  in  the  train.  Lists  of  the  stations  in 
order  are  nfuaUy  printed  up  at  each  end  of  every  carriage.  Heavy  or  bulky 
luggage  is  not  conveyed  by  these  railways ;  only  hand-luggage  is  allowed. 

a.  Central  London  Bailway. 

This  line,  opened  in  1900,  runs  in  two  parallel  tunnels  ftom  W. 
to  E.  through  the  heart  of  London.  It  is  6  M.  long,  and  the  trains 
take  about  1/2  hi«  ^oi  the  entire  journey.  It  was  long  familiarly 
known  as  the  'Twopenny  Tube'  from  its  once  uniform  fare  of  2d. 

Shepherd's  Bnsh  (beyond  PI.  R,  2),  Uxbridge  Road,  W.,  near 
the  tramway-terminus  for  Kew,  Richmond,  Hampton  Court,  IJx- 
bridge,  etc.  (p.  24).  During  the  Franco-British  Exhibition  in  1908 
this  line  will  have  a  terminus  (Wood  Lane)  farther  to  the  N.,  adjoin- 
ing the  exhibition-grounds. 

Holland  Park  (PI.  R,  2),  Holland  Park  Avenue. 

Hotting  Hill  Gate  (PI.  R,  2),  Netting  Hill  High  St.,  opposite 
the  Metropolitan  Station  (p.  32). 

Queen's  Boad  (PI.  R,  7),  for  Kensington  Gardens  and  Kensing- 
ton Palace. 

Lancaster  Gate  (PI.  R,  11),  Stanhope  Terrace,  V2  ^*  ^0  ^^^  S. 
of  Paddington  Station  (p.  26). 

Babobkbb's  London.    16th  Edit.  3 


34  8.  UNDEBGKOUND  RAILWAYS. 

Marble  Arch  (PI.  R,  19),  for  Hyde  Park,  the  Chapel  of  the 
Ascension,  etc. 

Bond  Street  (PI.  R,  19),  at  the  corner  of  Davies  St.  and  Oxford 
St.,  for  the  Wallace  Collection. 

Oxford  CireuB  (PI.  R,  23),  for  Queen's  Hall,  St.  George's  Hall, 
St.  James's  Hall,  Regent  St.,  Oxford  St.,  etc.  Change  for  Baker  St. 
t>''  Waterloo  Tube  (see  below). 

Tottenham  Court  Boad  (Pl.  R,  27;  /),  11  Oxford  Street.  Change 
for  Hampstead  Tube  (p.  36). 

BritiBh  Mnsenm  (PI.  R,  28),  High  Holborn,  for  the  British 
Museum,  Soane  Museum,  and  Lincoln's  Inn. 

Chancery  Lane  (PI.  R,  32),  High  Holborn,  for  Qray^s  Inn,  the 
Record  Office,  and  the  Royal  Courts  of  Justice. 

Post  Office  (PI.  R,  39),  Newgate  St.,  for  the  General  Post  Office, 
Central  Criminal  Court,  and  St.  Paul's. 

Bank  (PI.  R,  43),  for  the  Bank  of  England,  Mansion  House, 
Royal  Exchange,  and  Guildhall.  Change  for  City  ^  South  London 
Bailway  and  the  Waterloo  ^'  City  Railway  (pp.  37,  38). 

b.  Baker  Street  and  Waterloo  Bailway. 

This  line,  familiarly  known  as  the  'Bakerloo  Tube',  was  opened 
in  1906  and  extends  in  both  directions  beyond  the  stations  indicated 
in  its  title,  and  is  to  be  still  farther  extended  on  the  N.  to  Padding- 
ton  Station.  Present  length,  6  M. ;  journey  20  min. ;  fares  Id. -3d. 

Edipirare  Boad  (PI.  R,  16),  V2  M.  from  Paddington  Station. 

Great  Central  (PI.  R,  16),  for  Marylebbne  Station  (Great  Central 
Railway  terminus,  p.  26). 

Baker  Street  (PI.  R,  20),  Upper  Baker  St.,  for  Regent's  Park, 
Madame  Tussaud's,  and  the  Wallace  Collection.  Change  for  the 
Metropolitan  Bailway  (p.  31). 

Begent'B  Park  (PI.  R,  24),  Park  Crescent,  for  the  Zoological 
Gardens,  the  Botanic  Gardens,  Queen's  Hall,  St.  George's  Hall,  and 
St.  James's  Hall. 

Oxford  Circus  (PI.  R,  23),  for  Queen's  Hall,  St.  James's  Hall, 
Regent  St.,  Oxford  St.,  etc.  Change  for  Central  London  Railway 
(see  above). 

Piccadilly  Circus  (PI.  R,  27}  /)  for  Piccadilly  (Royal  Academy), 
Regent  St.  (Geological  Museum ;  New  Gallery),  Shaftesbury  Avenue 
(theatres,  pp.  45-47),  etc.  Change  for  the  Great  Northern,  Piccadilly, 
(V'  Brompton  Railway  (p.  35). 

Trafalgar  Square  (PI.  R,  26;  //,  IV)  for  National  Gallery,  Na- 
tional Portrait  Gallery,  Whitehall,  West  Strand,  and  Charing  Cross 
Terminus  (S.E.  &  Chatham  Railway).  Change  for  the  Hamp8tead 
Tube  (p.  36). 

Embankment  (PI.  R,  30;  IV),  entered  from  District  Railway 
Charing  Cross  Station ,  for  Victoria  Embankment  (Cleopatra's 
Needle).    Change  for  Metropolitan  District  Railway  (p.  32). 


8.  UNDERGROUND  RAILWAYS.  35 

Waterloo  (PI.  R,  30),  at  Waterloo  Station  (terminus  of  the  L. 
&S.W.  Railway).  Change  for  the  Waterloo  #  City  Railway  (p.  38). 

Westminster  Bridge  Boad  (PI.  R,  29),  for  Bethlehem  Lunatic 
Asylum  and  Lambeth  Palace.  Tramways  for  Streatham,  Tooting,  etc. 

Elephant  ft  Castle  (PI.  R,  33),  at  the  corner  of  London  Road. 
Change  for  the  City  ^  South  London  Railway  (p.  37).  Tramways 
to  Dulwich,  Catford,  and  Greenwich  and  Woolwich. 

0.  Great  Northern,  Piccadilly,  and  Brompton  Bailway. 

This  line,  known  also  as  the  'Piccadilly  Tube',  was  opened  in 
1906,  and  runs  from  S.  W.  to  N.E.  across  London  in  a  diagonal  line, 
9  M.  long.   Time  of  journey  35  min. ;  fares  ld.-4d. 

Hammersmith  (beyond  PI.  G,  1),  Hammersmith  Broadway,  op- 
posite the  Metropolitan  District  Railway  Station  (p.  3i).  Tramways 
to  Richmond,  Kew,  and  Hampton  Court  (p.  24). 

Baron's  Court  (beyond PI.  G,  1),  Palliser  Road,  for  Queen's  Club. 

EarPs  Court  (PI.  G,  1,  5),  Earl's  Court  Road,  for  Earl's  Court 
Exhibition. 

Gloucester  Boad  (PI.  G,  5),  change  for  Metropolitan  District 
Railway  (p.  32). 

South  Kensington  (PI.  G,  9),  Pelham  St.,  for  South  Kens- 
ington Museum,  Natural  History  Museum,  Imperial  Institute,  Albert 
Hall,  and  Albert  Memorial.  Change  for  Metropolitan  District  Rail- 
way (p.  3^). 

Brompton  Boad  (PI.  R,  13),  for  Brompton  Oratory  and  South 
Kensington  Museum. 

Knightsbrldge  (PI.  R,  13),  Brompton  Road,  for  Hyde  Park  and 
Kensington  Gardens. 

Hyde  Park  Comer  (PI.  R,  18 ;  IV),  for  Hyde  Park,  Buckingham 
Palace,  and  Victoria  Station  (8/4  M.  to  the  S.;  omnibus). 

Down  Street  (PI.  R,  18;  i 7),  for  Buckingham  Palace  and  Green 
Park. 

Dover  Street  (PI.  R,  22-,  iK),  for  Burlington  House  and  St. 
James's  Palace. 

Piccadilly  Circus  (PI.  R,  27;  i)  for  Piccadilly,  Regent  St. 
(Geological  Museum;  New  Gallery),  Shaftesbury  Avenue  (theatres, 
p.  45),  etc.    Change  for  the  Baker  Street  ^  Waterloo  Tube  (p.  34). 

Leicester  Square  (PI.  R,  27;  //),  in  Charing  Cross  Road,  for 
National  Gallery,  National  Portrait  Gallery,  Trafalgar  Square,  and 
theatres  in  Leicester  Square  and  Charing  Cross  Road,  etc.  Change 
for  the  Hampstead  Tube  (p.  36). 

Covent  Garden  (PI.  R,  27;  /i),  at  the  corner  of  Long  Acre  and 
James  St.,  for  Covent  Garden  and  Drury  Lane  Theatres. 

Holborn  (PI.  R,  32;  //),  at  the  comer  of  High  Holborn  and  Kings- 
way,  for  the  British  Museum,  Soane  Museum,  and  Lincoln's  Inn. 

A  branch-tube  runs  from  ihia  station  to  the  Strand  Station  (PL  B,  81  \  11)^ 
for  Aldwych,  Somerset  House,  the  Royal  Courts  of  Justice,  and  the  Temple. 

3* 


36  8.  UNDERGROUND  RAILWAYS. 

Bassell  Square  (PI.  R,  28),  Bernard  St.,  for  the  Foundling 
Hospital  and  the  British  Museum. 

King's  GroBB  (PI.  B,  32),  for  King's  Gross  Station  (terminus  of 
the  Great  Northern  Railway,  p.  26)  and  St.  Pancras  Station  (Midland 
Railway,  p.  25).  Change  for  the  City  ^  South  London  Railway  (p.  37). 

York  Bead  (Pi.  B,  30),  at  the  corner  of  Bingfleld  Street. 

Caledonian  Boad  (PI.  B,  29),  for  the  Cattle  Market. 

Holloway  Boad  (PI.  B,  29).  Tramways  to  Uighgate,  East  Finch- 
ley,  and  Barnet  (p.  24). 

OilloBpie  Boad. 

Finsbory  Park,  Seven  Sisters'  Road,  for  Finsbury  Park.  Change 
for  the  Oreat  Northern  ^  City  Tube  (p.  37).  Tramways  to  Alexandra 
Palace,  Tottenham,  and  Edmonton  (p.  24). 

d.  Charing  Gross,  Eueton,  ft  Hampetead  Bailway. 

This  line,  known  shortly  as  the  ^Hampstead  Tube',  was  opened 
in  1907  and  unites  the  N.W.  suburbs  with  Central  London.  Length 
6  M. ;  jonrney  20  min. ;  fares  ld.-4d.  Every  alternate  train  runs 
to  Highgate  (41/2  M. ;  see  below). 

Charing  Cross  (PI.  R,  26 ;  i/),  in  the  forecourt  of  Charing  Cross 
Terminus  (S.E.  &  Chatham  Railway ;  p.  27),  for  the  National  Gallery, 
National  Portrait  Gallery,  theatres  in  the  Strand  (p.  45),  Whitehall, 
and  Embankment. 

Leicester  Square  (PI.  R,  27;  //),  see  p.  35.  Change  for  the 
Piccadilly  Tube, 

Tottenham  Court  Boad  (PI.  R,  27;  /),  see  p.  34.  Change  for 
the  Central  London  Railway, 

Goodge  Street  (PI.  R,  28;  i),  73  Tottenham  Court  Road,  for 
the  Scala  Theatre. 

Warren  Street  (Pl.R,  24),  130  Tottenham  Couit  Road,  for  Uni- 
versity College.  Tramways  to  Hampstead,  Highgate,  and  Finsbury 
Park  (see  p.  21). 

Euston  (PI.  B,  28),  Drummond  St.,  for  Euston  Station  (London 
&  N.W.  Railway  Terminus,  p.  26).  Change  for  the  City  S'  South 
London  Railway  (p.  37). 

Hornington  Crescent  (PI.  B,  23),  for  Working  Men's  College  and 
Camden  Theatre. 

Camden  Town  (PI.  B,  22),  corner  of  High  St.  and  Kentish  Town 
Road,  for  the  Zoological  Gardens. 

At  this  station  every  alternate  train  diverges  for  Highgate  (Highgate 
Woods,  Waterlow  Park),  via  South  Kentish  Town  (PI.  B,  22),  Kentish  Town 
(PI.  B,  21),  and  Tu/nell  Park  (beyond  PL  B,  21).  From  Highgate  Station 
tramways  ply  to  £.  Finchley  and  Barnet. 

Chalk  Parm  (PI.  B,  18),  at  the  comer  of  Adelaide  Road  and 
Haverstock  Hill,  for  Primrose  Hill  and  Chalk  Farm  Station  of  the 
North  London  Railway  (p.  27). 

Belsize  Park  (PI.  B,  13),  188  Haverstock  Hill,  for  Hampstead 
Town  Hall. 


8.  UNDERGROUND  RAILWAYS.  37 

HampBtead  (beyond  PI.  B,  8,  9],  corner  of  Heath  St.  and  High 
St.,  Hampstead,  for  Hampstead  Heal^. 

Oolder's  Green,  North  End  Road,  for  the  Hampstead  Garden  City 
and  Hampstead  Heath  (motor  omnibus  to  Hendou). 

e.  City  ft  Sonth  London  Bailway. 

This  line,  opened  as  far  as  the  ^Angel*  in  1890  and  extended 
thence  to  Euston  in  1907,  passes  nnder  the  Thames,  jnst  above 
London  Bridge,  by  two  separate  tunnels  for  the  up  and  down  traffic. 
Length  7*/2  M. ;  journey  1/2  ^r.;  fares  li.-3d. 

Euston  (PI.  B,  28),  at  Euston  Station  (L.  &  N.W.  Railway 
terminus,  p.  26).   Change  for  the  Hampstead  Tube  (p.  36). 

King's  Cross  (PL  B,  32),  see  p.  36.  Change  for  the  Piccadilly 
Tube  (p.  35). 

Angel  (Pi.  B,  36),  at  the  junction  of  City  Road  and  Pentonville 
Road,  for  the  Agricultural  Hall  and  Grand  Theatre. 

City  Boad  (PL  B,  40). 

Old  Street  (PL  B,  44),  corner  of  City  Road,  for  Bunhill  Fields. 

Hoorgate  Street  (PL  R,  40,  44;  ///),  Finsbury  Pavement. 
Change  for  the  Metropolitan  Railway  (p.  31)  and  the  Great  Northern 
^  City  Tube  (see  below). 

Bank  (PL  R,  43;  ///),  for  the  Bank  of  England,  Guildhall,  and 
Royal  Exchange.  Change  for  the  Central  London  and  Waterloo  i^ 
City  Railways  (pp.  34,  38). 

.  London  Bridge  (PL  R,  42;  III),  Denman  St.,  for  St.  Saviour's 
Church,  Guy's  Hospital,  and  London  Bridge  Station  (S.E.  &  Chatham 
Railway  terminus,  p.  29). 

Borough  (PI.  R,  37),  Borough  High  Street.  Tramways  to 
Streatham,  Camberwell,  etc.  (pp.  23,  24). 

Elephant  &  Castle  (PL  G,  33),  at  the  junction  of  Newington 
Butts  and  Walworth  Road.  Change  for  the  Baker  Street  ^  Waterloo 
Railway  (1^,  34).   Tramways  toDulwich,  Greenwich,  Woolwich,  etc. 

Kennington  (PL  G,  33),  Kennington  Park  Road. 

Oval  (Pi.  G,  30),  for  Kennington  Oval.  Tramways  to  Streatham, 
Greenwich,  Dulwich,  and  Catfordr  (p.  22). 

Stockwell  (PI.  G,  32),  at  the  corner  of  Clapham  Road  and  Bin- 
field  Road,  for  Stockwell  Orphanage. 

Clapham  Boad  (beyond  PL  G,  28),  at  the  corner  of  Clapham 
Road  and  Bedford  Road. 

Clapham  Common,  at  the  comer  of  High  St.  and  Clapham  Park 
Road.   Tramways  to  Tooting,  Wimbledon,  and  Kingston  (p.  24). 

f.  Great  Northern  &  City  Tube. 

This  line,  opened  in  1904,  is  3*/2  M.  in  length  (1/4  hr.;  fares 
lrf.-2ti.). 

Hoorgate  Street  (PL  R,  40,  44 ;  //i),  see  above.  Change  for  the 
Metropolitan  and  City  ^'  South  London  Railways  (pp.  31,  37). 


38  9.  STEAMBOATS. 

Old  Street  (PI.  B,  44),  see  p.  37.  The  station  adjoins  and  com- 
municates with  the  station  on  the  City  ^  South  London  Railway, 

Essex  Boad  (PI.  B,  38),  at  the  comer  of  Oanonbnry  Road. 

Highbury  (PI.  B,  33),  Holloway  Road,  for  the  Highbury  &  Is- 
lington Station  of  the  North  London  Railway  (p.  27),  Tramways  to 
Highgate,  E.  Finchley,  and  Bamet  (p.  24). 

Drayton  Park  (PI.  B,  33),  for  Highbury  Fields.  Tramways  to 
Highgate,  E.  Finchley,  and  Barnet  (p.  24). 

Finsbury  Park  (beyond  PL  B,  33),  see  p.  36.  Change  for  the 
Piccadilly  Tube  (p.  36). 

g.  Waterloo  &  City  Railway. 

This  line,  opened  in  1898,  is  IV2  M.  in  length  (4  or  5  min.; 
fare  2d.,  return  3d.);  no  intermediate  stations. 

Waterloo  (PL  R,  30;  see  p.  29),  at  the  terminus  of  the  L.  & 
►S.W.  Railway. 

Bank  (PL  R,  43;  III),  for  the  Bank  of  England,  Guildhall,  and 
Royal  Exchange.  Change  for  the  Central  London  and  City  ^'  South 
London  Railways  (pp.  34,  37). 


9.  Steamboats. 

There  is  no  adequate  service  of  passenger-steamers  on  the  Thames  at 
London.  The  County  Council  service,  which  plied  in  1905-7,  has  been 
suspended ;  and  the  boats  of  the  Thames  Steamboat  Co.  also  have  ceased 
to  run  for  the  present.  There  is,  however,  the  prospect  of  a  service  be- 
tween Westminster  Bridge  and  Greenwich  in  summer,  1906. 

On  the  Thames  between  Hampton  Court  towards  the  west  and 
Southend  and  Sheemess  on  the  east  there  are  about  45  piers  or  land- 
ing-places, the  larger  half  of  which  are  on  the  north  or  left  bank. 
At  London  Bridge  there  are  two  piers,  Old  Swan  Pier^  on  the  N. 
bank,  immediately  above  the  bridge,  and  Surrey  Side  Pier^  on  the 
S.  bank,  immediately  below.  Between  the  bridges,  as  the  reach 
between  Vauxhall  Bridge  on  the  west  and  London  Bridge  on  the 
east  is  sometimes  called,  are  the  piers  at  All  Hallows^  BlackfriarSy 
Temple^  Charing  Cross ^  Westminster ^  Lambeth ^  and  Vauxhall, 
Above  Vauxhall  Bridge  are  Nine  Elms  ^  Pimlico,  Battersea  Park, 
Cadogan  (Chelsea)^  CarlyU  Pier  (Chelsea)^  Battersea  Square,  Wands- 
worth,  Putney,  Harnmersmith,  Kew,  Richmond,  Teddington,  and 
Hampton  Court.  Below  London  Bridge  (*below  bridge')  are  Cherry 
Gardens  (in  no  sense  corresponding  with  its  name),  Thames  Tun- 
nel, Olobe  Stairs,  Limehouse,  West  India  Docks,  Commercial  Docks, 
Greenwich,  North  Greenwich,  Blackwall,  South  Woolwich,  North 
Woolwich,  Rosherville,  Gravesend,  Southend,  and  Sheemess,  where 
the  Nore  light-ship  is  reached,  and  the  estuary  of  the  Thames  ex- 
pands into  the  German  Ocean. 

*Brllb'  Steamers.  These  steamers,  starting  at  London  Bridge  (Fresh 
Wharf)  daily  or  almost  daily  in  summer,  sail  down  the  estuary  of  the 


10.  POST  OFFICE.  39 

Thames  ^i^  Greenwich  and  Woolteich  to  Tilbury  (fare  it.  id.);  and  thence 
proceed  either  to  the  K.  to  Southmd  (fares  2«.  Bd.,  2s.),  Claettm,  WaUon- 
on-the-Naze  (is.  6d.,  3s.  6d.;  steamers  sometimes  changed),  Felixstowe  (6«., 
4<.),  Ipswich  i6s.  Qd.^  is.  6d.),  Southwold  (6<.  6<{.,  5«.),  Lowestoft,  and  yarmou/^i 
(7<.  6<2.,  5«.)i  or  to  the  S.  to  Margate  (is.  6<l.,  8«.  6d.)  and  Ramsgate 
(5<.,  4<.).  Oravesend  and  Bheerness  also  may  be  reached  by  Belle  steamer. 
The  hours  and  days  on  which  the  different  ports  are  touched  at  vary; 
passengers  should  consult  the  adrertisements  in  the  newspapers  or  obtain 
a  time-table  from  the  company's  office.  Belle  House,  Fish  Street  Hill,  E.G. 

New  Palacb  Stbamkbb  Co.  From  London  Bridge  (Old  Swan  Pier)  the 
^Royal  Sovereign''  plies  daily  in  summer  (except  Frid.  in  June)  at  0  a.m. 
(9.20  on  Sun.)  to  Greenwich^  North  Woolwich,  Tilbury,  Southend,  Margate, 
and  Ramsgate  (return -fares  6«.  6d.,  6«.  Gd.).  From  Tilbury  (train  from 
Fenchurch  St.  or  St.  Pancras)  the  ^Koh-i-noor'  plies  four  times  weekly 
to  Southend,  Margate,  Ramsgate,  Deal,  and  Dover  (return-fares  7s.,  Qs.).  On 
Sat.  this  steamer  makes  two  trips  to  Margate  and  back.  Office,  60  King 
William  St.,  E.G. 

A  steamer  of  the  General  Steam  Navigation  Co.  plies  (in  summer)  on 
Sat.,  Mon.,  and  Wed.  to  SoutJiend,  Margate,  and  Boulogne  (saloon  fare  Ss.  6d., 
return  lis.  6d.),  returning  on  Sun.,  Tues,,  and  Thursday. 

Steamers  upstream  from  Richmond,  see  p.  411 ;  from  Kingston,  see  p.  389. 

10.  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices.  Parcels  Companies. 
Commissionnaires.  Messengers.  Lady  Couriers. 

PoBt  OfAce.  The  Gbnbeal  Post  Oppicb  Is  in  St.  Martin's  le 
Grand  Qp.  95).  The  Poste  Restante  Office  is  on  the  S.  (right)  side 
of  the  portico,  and  is  open  from  6.45  a.m.  to  10  p.m.  There  are 
also  Poste  Restante  Offices  at  all  the  branch-offices.  Letters  to  he 
called  for,  which  should  have  the  words  'Poste  Restante*  added  to 
the  address,  are  deliyered  to  applicants  on  the  production  of  their 
passports  or  other  proof  of  Identity,  hut  it  is  hotter  to  give  cor- 
respondents a  private  address.  Unclaimed  letters  addressed  *poste 
restante',  are  kept  for  2-8  weeks  (according  to  their  place  of  origin), 
and  then  sent  to  the  Dead  Letter  Office  for  return  to  the  writer,  or 
for  destruction.  Such  letters,  however,  will  be  returned  within  a 
specified  time  to  the  writer,  if  a  request  to  that  effect  appear  on  the 
envelope. 

Unprepaid  letters  are  charged  double  postage,  but  may  be  refused 
by  the  addressee.  The  postage  for  the  whole  of  Great  Britain,  Ireland, 
and  the  islands  in  the  British  seas  is  Id.  for  Letters  not  exceeding 
4  oz. ,  and  ^/zd.  for  every  additional  2  oz. ;  for  Newspapers  ^j^d. 
each,  irrespective  of  weight.  The  fee  for  registration  for  a  letter  or 
other  packet  is  2d. ;  special  registered-letter  envelopes  are  supplied 
at  374-4d.  each  (Id.  postage  included).  —  For  letters  to  Egypt  or 
any  British  colony  the  rate  is  Id.  per  oz.,  to  any  other  part  of  the 
world  21/2^.  for  the  first  oz.  and  1 1/2^-  for  each  additional  oz.  — 
For  Boofc  Pacfccts  (now  officially  styled  'Halfpenny  Packets*)  a  uniform 
rate  of  ^j^d.  per  2  oz.  is  charged  for  any  part  of  the  world.  No 
inland  book-packet  may  exceed  2  ft.  in  length,  1  ft.  in  width,  and 
1  ft.  in  depth.  Newspapers  for  abroad  pay  book-post  rates.  British 
newspapers  or  magazines  over  2  oz.  in  weight  may  be  sent  to  Canada 


40  10.  POST  OFFICE. 

at  the  rate  of  id,  per  lb.  (maximum  6  lbs.).  —  Post  Cards  for 
use  in  the  British  Islands  are  issued  at  6^/^.  or  6d.  per  packet 
of  ten  (thin  and  thick) ;  for  all  other  countries,  at  id,  each ;  reply 
post-cards  may  be  had  at  double  these  rates.  Inland  poet-cards  are 
transmissible  abroad  with  an  additional  ^2^-  stamp.  PriYate  post- 
cards, conforming  in  size  and  thickness  to  the  official  cards  and 
prepaid  by  means  of  adhesive  stamps,  may  also  be  used ;  those  for 
abroad  must  have  the  words  Tost  Card'  on  the  address  side  (sold 
by  most  stationers).  Picture  post-cards,  without  communications, 
may  be  sent  to  any  country  in  the  postal  union  for  */2<^«»  ^^  ^^^ 
words  ^post  card'  be  erased  and  the  words  'book  post'  substituted. 
LeiUr  Cards  are  sold  at  i^Ud.  each  or  eight  for  9d.  Envelopes  of 
two  sizes  with  embossed  Y2^*  stamps,  of  three  sizes  with  embossed 
Id.  stamps,  and  newspaper  wrappers  with  impressed  ^/^d.  or  Id. 
stamps,  are  also  sold.  —  Reply-Coupons ^  each  exchangeable  for 
stamps  to  the  value  of  2^2^-  (^^  centimes)  in  any  country  that  is  a 
party  to  the  arrangement,  are  sold  for  3d. 

The  number  of  daily  deliveries  of  letters  in  London  varies  from  four 
to  twelve  according  to  the  distance  from  the  head  office  at  St.  Martin's 
le  Grand.  On  Sundays  there  is  no  delivery  by  postman,  but  letters  from 
the  provinces  and  abroad  are  delivered  by  express  messenger  if  a  fee  of 
3d.  per  mile  (reckoned  from  the  G.P.O.  at  Mt.  Pleasant)  is  prepaid  in 
addition  to  the  ordinary  postage.  Letters  posted  in  the  pillar  boxes  within 
the  town  limits  and  in  some  of  the  nearer  suburbs  are  collected  in  time 
for  the  general  day  mails  and  for  the  first  London  district  delivery  on  the 
following  day.  Letters  for  the  evening  mails  must  be  posted  in  the  central 
districts  before  6  p.m.,  but  with  an  additional  ^td.  stamp  they  may  be  posted 
at  St.  Martin's  le  Grand  up  to  7.30  and  at  Mt.  Pleasant  up  to  7.45  p.m.  For 
most  places  within  200  miles  of  London  there  are  supplementary  night  mail 
despatches,  letters  for  which  may  be  posted  (withoat  late  fee)  at  the  above 
offices  up  to  8.30  and  9  p.m.  respectively.  Foreign  letters  may  be  posted 
at  the  General  Post  Office  till  7  p.m.  with  an  additional  Id.  stamp;  till  7.30 
with  2d.  extra;  and  at  the  termini  for  Continental  trains  till  8.30  or  9  p.m. 
with  2d.  extra.  Most  of  the  head  district  offices  are  open  on  Sunday 
from  8  a.m.  to  8  p.m.  Full  official  information  will  be  found  in  the  Pott 
Office  Ouide  (quarterly;  6d.),  or  the  Post  0/^c«  ^ondftoo*  (half-yearly ;  Id.). 

ExPSBBS  Lkttbbs.  About  270  of  the  chief  post-offices  in  London  re- 
ceive letters  and  parcels  to  be  delivered  in  London  and  its  suburbs  by 
special  messengers  at  a  charge  of  8d.  per  mile  or  part  of  a  mile  (id.  per  mile 
for  each  article  above  one),  plus  a  weight  fee  ot  8d.  for  each  packet  weigh- 
ing over  lib.  If  the  parcel  be  over  20lbs.  in  weight  (or  i51bs.  if  a  public 
conveyance  be  not  available)  the  actual  cost  of  a  cab  is  charged  in  addition 
to  the  express  fee.  Express  letters  handed  in  at  other  post-offices  are 
forwarded  in  the  ordinary  course  of  post  to  the  nearest  Express  Delivery 
Office,  whence  they  are  sent  on  by  special  messenger.  —  The  express  mes- 
sengers also  act  as  guides  to  any  part  of  London  at  a  fee  of  3d.  per  mile. 

London  is  divided  into  eight  Postal  Districts  —  the  Eastern, 
Northern,  North  Western,  Western,  South  Western,  South  Eastern, 
East  Central ,  and  West  Central  —  which  are  designated  by  the 
capital  letters  E.,  N.,  N.W.,  etc.  Each  has  its  district  post-office, 
from  which  letters  are  distributed  to  the  surrounding  district.  At 
these  chief  district  offices  letters  (except  for  the  general  night 
mails)  may  be  posted  about  Y2  ^'*  l&ter  than  at  the  branches  or 
pillars.  The  delivery  of  London  letters  is  facilitated  by  the  addition 


10.  TELEGRAPHS.  41 

to  the  addiess  of  the  Initials  of  the  postal  district.  The  number  of 
offices  and  pillars  in  London  is  upwards  of  4000  and  the  number 
of  people  employed  is  about  21,000. 

Paboel  Post.  The  rate  of  postage  for  an  inland  parcel  is  3d.  for 
a  weight  not  exceeding  1  lb.;  each  additional  pound  up  to  3  lbs  ,  Id. ; 
not  exceeding  5  lbs.  6d.,  7  lbs.  7d.,  8  lbs.  Sd. ,  etc.  The  maximum 
length  allowed  for  such  a  parcel  is  3  ft.  6  in.,  and  the  length  and 
girth  combined  must  not  exceed  6  ft.;  the  maximum  weight  is  11  lbs. 
Insurance  (up  to  400^.)  is  allowed.  Parcels  must  be  handed  in  at 
a  post-office,  not  posted  in  a  letter-box.  —  A  Parcel  Post  Service, 
atYarious  rates  and  subject  to  yarlous  regulations,  is  established  also 
between  the  United  Kingdom  and  most  foreign  countries  and 
British  colonies.  A  'Customs  Declaration'  and  a  'Despatch  Note* 
(forms  to  be  obtained  at  a  post-office)  must  be  filled  up  for  each 
foreign  parcel.  Insurance  (maximum  20-4002.  according  to  the 
country  to  which  the  parcel  is  addressed)  is  allowed.  Parcels  for 
the  United  States  may  be  sent  by  post  or  by  a  semi-official  service 
maintained  by  the  American  Express  Go.  (p.  43).  Insured  parcels 
are  accepted  only  by  the  latter  service  (maximum  1202.). 

Post  Opricx  Honbt  Obdbss  are  issued  for  sums  not  exceeding  40Z.  at  the 
nnmeronf  Money  Order  Officu  connected  with  the  post-office,  at  least  one 
of  which  is  to  be  found  in  every  post  town  in  the  United  Kingdom.  For 
sums  up  to  II.  the  charge  for  transmission  is  2d.;  ik  to  3/.,  3d;  3^-10/., 
Ad. ;  i0f.-20l.,  6d. ;  20/.-30I.,  Sd. ;  WlSOl.,  lOd.  —  Postal  Ordebs  for  every 
multiple  of  sixpence  up  to  iOs.  (inclusive)  and  for  21«.,  are  issued  at  a 
charge  of  V*''-  (up  to  2s.  6d.),  id.  (up  to  i6s.\  or  ii/zd.    They  are  payable 


payment  within  three  months  from  the  last  day  of  the  month  of  issue, 
a  fresh  commission  is  charged  equal  to  the  original  cost.  By  the  use  of 
not  more  than  three  stamps  (amounting  at  most  to  6d.),  affixed  to  the 
face  of  the  order,  any  broken  amount  may  be  made  up. 

FoBBiGxr  Postal  Honbt  Osdbbs  are  issued  at  charges  of  3d.  for  sums 
not  exceeding  12.,  U.  6d.  not  exceeding  lOi.,  2s.  2d.  not  exceeding  20/., 
and  6t.  3d.  not  exceeding  40/.  The  maximum  for  a  single  order  for  all 
British  colonies  and  protectorates  and  for  most  European  countries  is  40/. 
(but  for  Russia  30/.,  for  Bulgaria,  Denmark,  and  the  United  States  20/.). 

Tblboraph  Mokbt  Obdebs  are  iasued  for  sums  not  exceeding  40/.  by 
all  post-offices  transacting  telegraph  and  money  order  busineas.  A  charge 
of  not  less  than  6d.  U  made  for  the  official  telegram  of  advice,  in  addition 
to  poundage  at  the  same  rate  as  for  inland  money  orders  (see  above),  and 
a  supplementary  fee  of  2d.  for  each  order.  Telegraph  money  orders  may 
also  be  sent  to  many  foreign  countries  (not  Including  the  United  States  of 
America),  the  maximum  being  the  same  as  for  money-orders.  Charges 
include  charge  for  the  telegram  of  adyice,  ordinary  poundage,  and  a  fee 
of  6d.  for  each  order. 

Telegraphs.  The  whole  telegraph  system  of  Great  Britain,  with 
the  sole  exception  of  wires  for  the  private  nse  of  the  railway-com- 
panies, belongs  to  Government  (p.  96).  The  tariff  for  inland  tele- 
grams is  y^d.  per  word ,  with  a  minimnm  charge  of  6(2. ;  the 
addresses  are  counted  as  part  of  the  telegram.  Replies  up  to  48 
words  may  be  prepaid.  Telegram  -  forms  with  embossed  stamps 
may  be  purchased  singly  (6d.)  or  in  books  of  20  (10s.  24.).  Tele- 
grams are  received  at  many  railway-stations  and  most  post-offices 


42  10.  TELEPHONES. 

throaghout  the  country.  They  may  also  be  posted  in  any  pillar 
box  or  post-office  and  are  in  that  ease,  if  properly  prepaid ,  de- 
spatched as  soon  as  possible  after  the  box  is  cleared.  London  and 
its  suburbs  contain  more  than  500  telegraph  -  offices,  open  from- 
8  a.m.  to  8  p.m.  or  longer.  Always  open  are:  Central  Telegraph 
Station,  St.  Martin's  le  Grand  (comer  of  Newgate  St.);  West 
Strand,  opposite  Charing  Cross  Station;  London  Bridge  Station; 
Liverpool  St.  Station;  St.  Pancras  Station;  Waterloo  Station; 
Willesden  Junction  Station;  Stratford  Railway  Station.  The  office 
at  King's  Cross  Station  is  open  always  except  i  .30  to  2.30  on  Sun- 
day; that  at  Marylebone  Station  Is  open  always  except  11.30  a.m.- 
3.30  p.m.  on  Sundays. 

Foreign  Tblxosahs.  The  tariflf  per  word  for  telegrams  to  Belgium^ 
Holland^  France^  or  Oertnany  is  2d.;  Italy ^  Austria,  Hungary,  Denmark, 
Norwiff,  Spain,  P&rtugal,  or  SwUwerland  3d.  i  Sweden  S'/td. ;  Russia  in  Europe 
A^lid. ;  Greece  6<2. ;  Turkey  d^/td. ;  Canada  is.  to  Ss.  2d. ;  United  Slates  U, 
to  U.  64. ;  Egypt  U.  to  U.  id.  -,  India  is.  iOd.  to  2s. ;  Cape  Colony  or  Natal  28. 
Gd.',  Australia  2s.  dd.  to  3s.',  West  Indies  is.  Sd.  to  7s.  6d.i  South  America 
3s.  to  7s.  Id.  The  minimum  in  every  case  is  iOd. 

WiBBLESs  Telegrams.  Messages  are  accepted  at  all  telegraph-offices 
for  transmission  by  wireless  telegraphy  to  certain  Atlantic  liners,  at  a 
charge  of  Q^jtd.  per  word  (minimum  charge  6<.  Qd.).  In  addition  to  the 
name  of  the  ship  that  of  the  wireless  telegraph  station  (Crookhaven,  Lizard, 
Malin  Head,  Kiton,  North  Foreland,  or  Bosslare)  must  appear  in  the  address. 
Telegrams  to  British  war-ships  are  charged  3V2<f .  per  word  (minimum  3s.  6d.). 

The  Marconi  International  Marine  Communication  Co.  (Watergate  House, 
Adelphi)  maintains  wireless  communication  with  Montreal  at  the  rate  of 
V/id.  per  word. 

Telephones.  Telephonic  communication  within  the  London  Exchange 
Area,  covering  a  district  640  sq.  M.  in  extent,  with  a  population  of  more 
than  6,000,000,  is  maintained  parUy  by  the  National  Tilephone  Co.,  the 
head  office  of  which  is  at  ^Telephone  House',  Victoria  Embankment, 
£.  C,  and  partly  by  the  Post  Office,  whose  Central  Exchange  is  in  Queen 
Victoria  St.  (p.  130).  When  the  licence  of  the  Telephone  Co.  expires  in 
1911  its  whole  plant  will  be  taken  over  by  the  Post  Office.  The  present 
double  jurisdiction  is,  however,  of  little  importance  to  visitors  to  London, 
as  there  is  free  iatercommunication  between  the  systems.  Call-offices  open 
to  the  public  at  the  rate  of  2d.  per  3  minutes'  conversation  are  to  be 
found  all  over  London  —  in  post-offices,  shops,  public  libraries,  under- 
ground stations,  etc.  —  The  Post  Office  lias  also  a  system  of  trunk-lines 
to  the  chief  towns  of  the  United  Kingdom  (charge  for  8  min.  from  3d.  up- 
wards according  to  distance).  —  Telephonic  communication  exists  between 
London  and  Paris,  Belgium,  and  some  French  provincial  towns.  The  public 
call -offices  are  at  the  General  Post  Office  West  (p.  95;  always  open), 
West  Strand  Office  (always  open),  and  Threadneedle  Street  Post  Office  (open 
on  weekdays  from  8  a.m.  to  8  p.m.).  Charge  8«.  per  three  minutes  except 
for  Bordeaux,  Lyons,  Marseilles  and  St.  Etienne,  in  which  cases  the  charge  is 
10«.  for  8  minutes.  [In  Belgium  Greenwich  time  is  used  officially  for  tele- 
phonic purposes,  but  Paris  time  is  9  min.  in  advance  of  London  time, 
a  fact  to  be  taken  into  account  in  arranging  for  conversations  with  Paris 
correspondents.] 

Parcels  Companies.  Parcels  for  London  and  the  environs  are  trans- 
mitted by  the  London  Parcels  Delivery  Company  (head-office,  12  Rolls  Build- 
ings, Fetter  Lane,  Fleet  St.),  by  Carter,  Paterson,  A  Co.  (126  Goswell  Road, 
E.C.),  and  by  Pick/ord  Limited  (57  Gresham  St.,  E.C.),  all  with  numerous 
receiving  offices  distributed  throughout  London,  usually  in  shops  indicated 
by  notices.  Within  a  radius  of  3  M.  a  parcel  under  4lbs.  is  sent  for  3d., 
under  141bS.,  Qd.,  under  28lb8.,  8d.,   and  so  on  up  to  1121bB.  for  Is.  2d.; 


10.   COMMISSIONAIRES.  43 

beyond  3  M.  the  charges  are  from  id.  upwards.  [A  card  with  the  initials 
of  any  of  these  companies  in  large  letters,  conspicuously  exhibited  in  the 
window,  will  arrest  the  first  of  its  vans  that  happens  to  pass  the  house.] 
The  District  and  Metropolitan  Railways  also  convey  parcels  at  cheap  rates. 
Parcels  for  any  place  in  the  United  Kingdom  may  be  entrusted  to  these 
companies,  but  the  Post  Office  is  the  best  carrier  for  packages  not  ex< 
ceeding  lllbs.  in  weight.  Parcels  for  the  Continent  are  forwarded  by 
the  Continental  Daily  Parcels  Express  (53  Gracechurch  8t.)  and  the 
aiobe  Parcels  Express  (Errol  St.,  Whitecross  St.,  II  St.  Andrew*s  Hill,  and 
9  Blenheim  St.,  Kew  Bond  St.),  which  work  in  connection  with  the 
continental  post-offices.  Parcels  for  America  are  forwarded  by  Staveley 
A  Co.^s  American  European  Express,  45a  Jewin  St ,  E.G.,  Weills  Fargo  A  Co,^ 
29  Cannon  St.,  E.G.,  Feild  A  Co.^  14  St.  Mary  Axe,  and  the  American  Line 
SUamship  Co.  (p.  xiii).  Pitt  A  Scott  (25  Cannon  St.,  City),  and  the  American 
Express  Co.^  5  Haymarket,  S.W.,  and  84  Queen  St.,  E.G.,  are  general 
shipping  and  parcel  agents  for  all  parts  of  the  world. 

CommisBioimaireB.  These  are  a  corps  of  retired  soldiers  of  high 
character,  organized  in  1859  by  the  late  Captain  Sir  Edward  Walter 
(d.  1904),  and  are  convenient  and  trustworthy  messengers  for  the 
conveyance  of  letters  or  small  parcels.  They  also  act  as  gnides  and 
interpreters.  Their  head -office  is  at  Exchange  Court,  419a  Strand. 
Their  charges  are  Sd,  per  mile  or  6(2.  per  hour;  the  rate  is  a  little 
higher  if  the  parcel  to  be  carried  weighs  more  than  14  lbs.  The 
charge  for  a  day  is  about  5s.,  and  they  may  also  be  hired  by  special 
arrangement  for  a  week  or  a  longer  period. 

District  Kesaenger  Co.  Messengers  of  this  company  charge  4d.  per 
half-mile,  6d.  per  mile,  8tf.  per  hr.,  fares  extra.  Letters  are  posted  or 
cabs  called  at  2(2.,  or  id.  after  10  p.m.  and  on  Sundays.  Head -office: 
100  St.  Martinis  Lane,  W.C;  among  the  numerous  branch-offices  (open 
always)  may  be  mentioned  those  at  the  Hotel  Bitz,  Hotel  Cecil.  St.  Ermm's 
Hotel,  Westminster,  91  and  193  Piccadilly,  269  Regent  Street,  27  Chancery 
Lane,  Holborn  Restaurant,  66  Queen  Victoria  Street,  120  Leadenhall  Street, 
Torrington  Place  Lodge,  Torrington  Square,  4  Charing  Gross,  17  London 
Street,  Paddington,  73a  Victoria  Street,  17  Sloane  Street,  121  Finchley  Road, 
and  several  of  the  principal  railway  termini. 

The  International  Lady  Gonriersi  4  Charing  Cross  (District 
Messengers  Office),  provide  ladies  qualified  to  act  as  guides  to  the 
sights  of  London,  as  interpreters,  as  travelling  companions,  as  aids 
in  shopping  or  packing,  etc.  They  also  keep  a  register  of  boarding 
and  lodging  houses,  engage  rooms  at  hotels,  exchange  money,  provide 
railway  and  other  tickets,  and  generally  undertake  to  give  all  the 
information  and  assistance  required  hy  a  stranger  In  Loudon.  Fee 
IO5.  per  day,  50*.  per  week.  The  fee  for  meeting  at  railway- 
stations  is  5«.  —  The  American  Rendezvous,  156  Regent  St.,  in- 
cludes a  lady-guides  bureau.  —  Miss  L.  E.  Elwin^  23  Alwyne  Road, 
Canonbury,  N.,  may  also  be  recommended  as  a  lady  guide. 

11.  Theatres,  Music  Halls,  and  other  Entertainments. 

The  performance  at  most  of  the  London  theatres  begins  about 
7.30,  8,  or  8.30,  and  Tasts  till  11  p.m.  Many  theatres  also  give  so- 
called  ^morning  performances'  or  *matin<fes*,  beginning  about  2.30 
or  3  p.m.  For  details  consult  the  notices  *under  the  clock'  (i.e.  im- 


44  11.    THEATRES. 

mediately  before  the  summaries  and  leaden)  in  the  daily  papers. 
The  doors  are  nsnally  opened  half-an-honr  before  the  performance. 
In  some  theatres  a  small  extra  payment  (6d.  or  Is.)  admits  to  the 
cheaper  seats  by  the  'early  door\  before  the  general  public  is  ad- 
mitted. —  Good  German  and  French  companies  Tisit  London  an- 
nually; see  the  advertisements  in  the  newspapers. 

London  possesses  about  30  west  end  theatres,  as  many  suburban 
theatres,  and  about  60  regular  music-halls,  besides  ten  limes  the  number 
of  smaller  halls  and  assembly-rooms,  the  aggregate  nightly  audience  at 
these  being  estimated  at  150,000.  A  visit  to  the  whole  of  the  theatres  of 
London,  which,  however,  could  only  be  managed  in  the  course  of  a  pro- 
longed sojourn,  would  give  the  traveller  a  capital  insight  into  the  social 
life  of  the  ptople  throughout  all  its  gradations.  At  some  of  the  better 
theatres  all  extra  fees  have  been  abolished,  but  most  of  them  still  main- 
tain the  objectionable  custom  of  charging  for  programmes,  the  care  of 
wraps,  etc.  Opera-glasses  may  be  hired  for  U.  or  is.  M.  f^om  the 
attendants;  in  some  theatres  the  glasses  are  placed  in  automatic  boxes 
on  the  backs  of  the  seats  and  opened  by  dropping  a  sixpenny  piece  or  a 
shilling  in  the  slot. 

The  best  seats  are  the  Stalls^  next  to  the  Orchestra,  and  the  Dress 
Circle  or  Balcony  Stalls.  The  gallery  above  the  latter  is  known  variously 
as  the  (T2>per  Circle^  Upper  Boxes,  or  Farmly  Circle.  Tickets  for  all  these 
places  ma)  be  secured  in  advance  at  the  Box  Office  (usually  open  from 
10  a.m.  to  10  p.m.)  of  the  theatre  or  from  the  undermentioned  agents;  and 
on  the  occasion  of  popular  performances  this  precaution  is  essential.  In 
certain  theatres  any  seat  in  the  house  may  be  reserved  in  advance.  The 
price  for  a  stall  is  almost  invariably  10«.  Gd.,  admission  to  the  pit  2^.  6c2., 
to  the  gallery  \s.  \  while  the  charges  for  other  seats  vary  slightly  in  different 
theatres.  —  Tickets  for  the  opera  and  for  most  of  the  theatres  may  be 
obtained  also  from  Lctcon  A  Oilier,  168a  New  Bond  Street;  Hays,  26  Old 
Bond  Street,  82  CornLill,  and  4  Royal  Exchange  Buildings ;  Keiih,  Prowse^ 
A  Co.t  48  Cheapside,  148  Fenchurch  Street,  3  Grand  Hotel  Buildings, 
42  Victoria  Street,  4  First  Avenue  Hotel  Buildings,  High  Holborn,  and 
162  New  Bond  Street;  Cramer,  124  Oxford  St.,  136  High  St.,  Notting  Hill 
Gate,  and  46  Moorgate  Street,  City;  Newman,  Queen's  Hall,  Langham  Place; 
Webster  A  Waddington,  804  Regent  Street;  Ashton  A  Mitchell,  33  Old  Bond 
Streets.  30  Sloane  Street,  16  Gloucester  Road,  Stock  Exchange,  etc. ;  Cecil 
Roy,  36  Wigmore  Street,  11  Pont  Street,  4  Bank  Buildings,  Gloucester 
Road,  91  Knightsbridge,  59  South  Audley  Street,  and  68  Regent  Street,  and 
at  the  offices  of  the  District  Messenger  Co.  (p.  43),  at  charges  somewhat 
higher  as  a  rule  than  at  the  theatres  themselves.  Single  box-seats  can 
generally  be  obtained  at  the  door  as  well  as  at  the  box-office,  except 
when  the  boxes  are  let  for  the  season. 

Those  who  have  not  taken  their  tickets  in  advance  should  be  at  the 
door  Va  !""•  before  the  beginning  of  the  performance,  with,  if  possible, 
the  exact  price  of  their  ticket  in  readiness.  All  the  theatres  are  closed 
on  Good  Friday  and  Christmas  Day,  and  many  throughout  Passion  Week. 

Evening-dress  is  not  now  compulsory  in  any  of  the  London  theatre?, 
but  is  customary  in  the  stalls  and  dress  circle  and  de  rigueur  in  most 
parts  of  the  opera-house  during  the  opera  season. 

The  chief  London  theatres,  in  alphabetical  order,  are  the  follow- 
ing (many  of  them  closed  in  August  and  September). 

Adblphi  Theatre  (PI.  R,  31 ;  II\  411  Strand  (N.  side),  near 
Bedford  Street.  Melodramas  and  farces.  Stalls  IO5.  6d.,  dress  circle 
65.,  upper  circle  48.  and  Ss.,  pit  2a.  6d.,  gallery  la. 

Aldwyoh  Thbatre  (pi.  R,  31 ;  i/),  Aldwych,  Strand.  Stalls 
10s.  6d.,  balcony  7s.  Gi.,  6s.,  and  5s.,  upper  circle  5s.  and  4s.,  pit 
2s.  6d.,  gallery  Is. 


11.  THEATRES.  45 

Apollo  Thbateb  (PI.  R,  27;  /),  Shaftesbury  Avenue.  Musical 
comedies,  etc.  Stalls  iOs,  6d.,  balcony  stalls  7«.  6(2.  and  6«.,  upper 
circle  4«.  and  5«.,  pit  2^.  6d.,  gallery  is, 

CoMBDT  Thbatbb  (P1.R,26;  /),  PantonSt.,  Haymarket.  Stalls 
lOs.  6d.,  balcony  7«.  6(2.,  upper  circle  6s.  and  48.,  pit  2«.  6(2.,  amphi- 
theatre  Is.  6<2.,  gallery  is. 

CouBT  Thbateb  (Pi.  G,  17),  Sloane  Square,  Chelsea.  Comedies 
and  dramas.  Stalls  10^.  6(2.,  dress  circle  Is.  6(2.  and  6s.,  upper 
circle  4s.,  pit  2s.  6(2.,  gallery  Is. 

Royal  Italian  Opbea,  or  Covbnt  Gaedbn  Thbateb  (PI.  R, 
31;  //),  on  the  W.  side  of  Bow  St.,  Long  Acre,  the  third  theatre 
on  the  same  site,  was  built  in  1858  by  Barry.  It  accommodates  an 
audience  of  3500  persons,  being  nearly  as  large  as  the  Scala  at 
Milan,  and  has  a  handsome  Corinthian  colonnade.  This  house  was 
originally  sacred  to  Italian  opera,  but  is  now  also  used  for  fancy 
dress  balls,  etc.,  in  winter.  Boxes  2V2-8  guineas,  orchestra  stalls 
21s.,  balcony  15s.,  amphitheatre  10s.,  7s.  6(2.,  and  5s.,  gallery  2s.  6(2. 
Operas  have  also  been  given  here  at  'theatre*  prices  —  i.e,  about 
50  per  cent  lower  than  those  just  mentioned.  In  winter,  stalls  6s., 
stage  stalls  4s.,  grand  circle  2s.  6(2.,  balcony  stalls  2s.,  promenade  Is. 

Oeitbeion  Thbateb  (PI.  R,  26 :  /),  Piccadilly  Circus.  Comedies, 
society  plays,  farces,  etc.  Stalls  10s.  6(2.,  dress  circle  7s.  6(2.,  family 
circle  5s.  and  4s.,  pit  2s.  6(2.,  gallery  Is. 

Daly's  Thbateb  (PI. R, 27;  /),  Cranbourn  St.,  Leicester  Square. 
Musical  comedies,  dramas,  etc.  Stalls  10s.  6(2.,  balcony  stalls  7s. 
6(2.,  upper  circle  5s.  and  4s.,  pit  2s.  6(2.,  gallery  Is. 

Deuey  Lanb  Thbateb  (PI.  R,  31;  //),  Catherine  St.,  Drury 
Lane,  near  Covent  Garden,  where  Garrick,  Eean,  the  Kembles,  and 
Mrs.  Siddons  used  to  act.  Shakspeare's  plays,  comedies,  spec- 
tacular plays,  English  opera,  etc.  Pantomime  in  winter.  Stalls 
10s.  6(2.,  grand  circle  7s.  and  6s.,  first  circle  5s.  and  4s.,  balcony  2s., 
pit  2s.  6(2.,  gallery  Is.  No  fees.  The  vestibule  contains  a  statue  of 
Kean  as  Hamlet,  by  Carew,  and  others. 

DuKB  OP  Yoek's  Thbateb  (Pi.  R,  27;  //),  St.  Martin's  Lane, 
near  Trafalgar  Square.  Comedies,  dramas,  etc.  Stalls  10s.  6(2.,  bal- 
cony 7s.  6(2.  and  6s.,  upper  circle  4».,  pit  2s.  6(2.,  gallery  Is. 

Gaiety  Theatee  (PI.  R,  31 ;  //),  at  the  corner  of  the  Strand 
and  Aldwych.  Musical  comedies,  burlesques,  farces.  Stalls  10s.  6(2., 
dress  circle  7s.  6(2.  and  6s.,  upper  circle  5s.  and  4s.,  pit  2s.  6(2., 
gallery  Is. 

Gaeeick  Thbateb  (PI.  R,  27;  //),  Charing  Cross  Road.  Com- 
edies and  dramas.  Stalls  10s.  6(2.,  balcony  stalls  7s.  6(2.,  dress  circle 
6s.,  upper  circle  5s.  and  4s.,  pit  2s.  6(2.,  gallery  Is. 

Haymaekbt  Thbateb  (PL  R,  26;  /),  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Hay- 
market.  English  comedy  and  drama.  Stalls  10s.  6(2.,  balcony  stalls 
7s.,  balcony  5s.,  upper  circle  2s.  6(2.,  upper  boxes  2s.  6(2.,  gallery  Is. 
No  fees. 


46  11.    THEATRES. 

UiOKs  Theatke  (P1.R,27;  /),  Shaftesbury  Avenue,  at  the  corner 
of  Rupert  Street.  Comedy  and  drama.  Stalls  108.  6d.,  dress  circle 
7s,  Qd.  and  68. ,  upper  circle  58.  and  48.,  pit  28.  6d.,  gallery  Is. 

His  Majesty's  Theatre  (PI.  R,  26;  i),  in  the  Haymarket,  ad- 
joining the  Carlton  Hotel.  English  comedy  and  drama  (Mr.  Beerbohm 
Tree).  Stalls  10s.  6d.,  balcony  stalls  78.  6<2.,  balcony  58.,  upper 
circle  48.,  3«.,  and  2s.,  pit  28.  6(2.,  gallery  l8. 

Imperial  Theatre  (PL  R,  25;  IV),  Tothill  St.,  Westminster. 
Comedies,  burlesques,  and  farces.  Stalls  lOs.  6d.,  dress  circle  78. 
6(2.,  upper  circle  58.  and  48.,  pit  28.  6d.,  gallery  is. 

KiNGSWAY  Theatre  (PI.  R,  31;  //),  Great  Queen  St.,  Lincoln's 
Inn  Fields.  Light  comedy.  Stalls  108.  6<2.,  dress  circle  78.  6d.  and 
58.,  pit-stalls  68.,  upper  circle  48.,  pit  23.  6<2.,  gallery  l8.  Any  seat 
in  the  house  may  be  reserved  in  advance. 

Lyceum  Theatre  (PI.  R,  31 ;  //),  Wellington  St.,  Strand.  Pop- 
ular drama.  Stalls  58.  and  38.;  dress  circle  28.  6d.,  pit-stalls  l8.  6(i., 
pit  la.,  gallery  6d. 

Lyrio  Theatre  (PI.  R,  27;  J),  Shaftesbury  Avenue.  Comedy- 
operas,  romantic  drama,  etc.  Stalls  108.  6(2.,  balcony  stalls  78.  6(2. 
and  68.,  upper  circle  58.  and  48.,  pit  28.  6(2.,  gallery  l8. 

New  Theatre  (PI.  R,  27;  /i),  St.  Martin's  Lane.  Comedies 
and  domestic  drama.  Stalls  108.  6(2.,  dress  circle  78.  6(2.  and  68., 
family  circle  58.  and  48.,  pit  28.  6(2.,  gallery  is. 

Playhouse  (Pl.R,  26,  30;  /F),  Northumberland  Avenue.  Com- 
edy, etc.  Stalls  108.  6(2.,  balcony  stalls  78.  6(2.,  balcony  68.,  upper 
circle  48.,  pit-circle  28. 6(2.,  gallery  Is.  Any  seat  in  the  house  may 
be  reserved  in  advance. 

Princess's  Theatre  (PI.  R,  23;  i),  152  Oxford  St.,  to  the  E. 
of  Oxford  Circus.  Melodramas,  musical  comedies,  etc.  Stalls  68., 
grand  circle  is.  and  38.,  first  circle  28.,  pit  stalls  Is.  6(2.,  pit  Is. 

Prince  op  Wales  Theatre  (PI.  R,  27,  36;  7),  Coventry  St., 
Haymarket.  Comedies,  operettas,  etc.  Stalls  lOs.  6d.,  balcony  stalls 
7s.  6(2.,  upper  circle  5s.  and  4s.,  pit  28.  6(2.,  gallery  Is. 

Queen's  Theatre  (PI.  R,  27;  /),  Shaftesbury  Avenue,  at  the 
cwrner  of  Wardour  Street.  Comedy  and  drama.  Stalls  lOs.  6(2.,  dress 
circle  78.  6c2.  and  5s.,  upper  circle  4s.  and  3s.,  pit  2s,  6c2.,  gallery  Is. 

New  Royalty  Theatre  (PI.  R,  27;  J),  73  Dean  St.,  Soho. 
Comedies  and  dramas.  Stalls  10s.  6(2.,  dress  circle  78.  6(2.  and  68., 
upper  circle  48.,  pit  28.  6(2.,  gallery  Is. 

Savoy  Theatre  (PI.  R,  31 ;  IT),  Savoy  Place,  Strand.  Modern 
plays.  Stalls  lOs.  6(2.,  dress  circle  7s.  6(2.  and  58,,  upper  circle  48., 
pit  28.  6(2.,  gallery  Is. 

St.  James's  Theatre  (PI.  R,  22;  IV),  King  St.,  St.  James's 
Square.  Comedies  and  society  plays  (Mr.  George  Alexander).  Stalls 
10s.  6(2.,  dress  circle  78.,  upper  circle  4s.,  pit  28. 6(2.,  gallery  Is.  No  fees. 

ScALA  Theatre  (PI.  R,  24;  /),  Charlotte  St.,  Fitzroy  Square. 
Stalls  7s.  6(2.,  staircase  stalls  6s.,  balcony  3s.,  pit  2s.  6(2.,  gallery  Is. 


11.  THEATRES.  47 

Shaptbbbuey  Thbatbb  (pi.  R,  27;  i),  Shaftesbury  Avenue. 
Comedies,  etc.  Stalls  iOs.  6d.,  balcony  stalls  7s.  6d.  and  6«.,  upper 
circle  5^.,  4a.,  and  3^.,  pit  2«.  6(2.,  amphitheatre  is.  6<2.,  gallery  is. 

Tebky's  Thbatbb  (PI.  R,  31 :  /i),  105  Strand.  Comedies,  do- 
mestic dramas,  etc.  Stalls  10«.  6d.,  balcony  stalls  7«.  6<2.  and  6s., 
upper  circle  4^.,  pit  2«.  6(2.,  gallery  is. 

Vaudbvillb  Thbatbb  (Pi.  R,  31 ;  II),  404  Strand.  Comedies, 
farces,  and  burlesques.  Stalls  10«.  6(2.,  balcony  7^.  6(2.,  lower  circle 
6a.,  npper  circle  4a.,  pit  2a.  6(2. ,  gallery  la. 

Waldorf  Thbatbb  (PI.  R,  31;  II),  Aldwyoh,  Strand.  Stalls 
10a.  6(2.,  balcony  7a.  6(2.,  6a.,  and  5a.,  npper  circle  5a.  and  4a.,  pit 
2a.  6(2.,  gallery  la. 

Wyndham's  Thbatbb  (PI.  R,27; /i),  Cranbourn  St.,  €haring 
Cross  Road,  with  a  roof-garden  and  elevator.  Comedies,  society 
pieces,  etc.  Stalls  10a.,  balcony  stalls  7a.  6(2.,  grand  circle  6a.,  upper 
circle  5a.  and  4a.,  pit  2a.  6(2.,  gallery  la. 

The  following  are  'peoples'  theatres',  in  which,  for  the  tourist, 
the  audience  forms  part  of  the  entertainment. 

Geand  Thbatbb  (PL  B,  35),  ffigh  St.,  Islington. 

National  Stand abd  Thbatbb  (PI.  R,  44),  204  Shoreditch 
High  Street.    Popular  pieces.    Admission  4d.'3a. 

Payilion  Thbatbb  (PI.  R,  52),  193  Whitechapel  Road,  holding 
nearly  4000  persons.  Nautical  dramas,  melodramas,  farces.  Ad- 
mission 3(2.-la. 

Royal  Subbby  Thbatbb  (PI.  R,  33),  124  Blackfriars  Road. 
Melodramas  and  farces.    Admission  3(2.  to  la. 

Elbfhant  and  Castlb  Thbatbb  (PL  G,  37),  New  Kent  Road. 
Popular  performances.   Prices  id.  to  2a.  6(2. 

Bbitannia  (PL  B,  24),  Hoxton  St.,  in  the  N.E,  of  London, 
holding  nearly  3400  persons. 

SuBUBBAN  Theatbes.  Within  the  last  fevr  years  a  number  of  theatres 
have  been  bnilt  in  the  sabarbs  of  London,  where  very  fair  performances 
are  frequently  to  be  seen  (sometimes  metropolitan  companies).  Among 
these  are  the  Goronei  (PL  R,  2),  dotting  Hill  Oate^  Camden,  Camden  Town; 
Marlborough^  HoUoway;  Alexandra^  Stoke  Newington;  MiiropoU  (PI.  G.AO)y 
near  Camberwell  Green  ^  Broadway.  New  Cross;  Kenningion  Theatre  (p.  382); 
Croion  Thtatrty  Peckham;  Shaktptare^  near  Claph^m  Junction*;  Lyric  Optra 
Howe,  Hammersmith;  irmtjr'^.  Hammersmith  Road;  Fvlham  O^and,  Fulham 
Road;  and  theatres  at  Dalston,  Stratford,  Mile  End,  Lewisbam,  Croydon, 
Brixton,  Battersea,  Rotherhithe,  etc.    Adm.  6d.-5«. 

Music  Halls  and  Variety  Entertainments. 
The  entertainments  offered  by  the  Music  Halls  have  certainly 
improved  in  tone  during  the  last  ten  or  fifteen  years,  and  ladies  may 
visit  the  better-class  west  end  establishments  without  fear,  though 
they  should,  of  course,  eschew  the  cheaper  seats.  The  ballets  at  the 
Alhambra  and  the  £mpire  are  justly  celebrated.  Smoking  is  almost 
universally  permitted.   The  objectionable  custom  of  charging  %d. 


48  11.    MUSIC  HALLS. 

for  a  programme,  often  consisting  mainly  of  advertisements,  is  rife 
at  the  music  halls  also. 

Alhamb&a  (PL  R,  27;  i),  Leicester  Square,  with  another  en- 
trance in  Charing  Cross  Road  (elaborate  hallets).  Begins  at  7.30  p.m. 
Fauteuils  and  grand  circle  stalls  7«.  6(2.,  stalls  and  promenade  5s., 
grand  balcony  3«.,  pit  stalls  2«.,  pit  is. 

Empibb  Thbatrb  of  Varibtibs  (PI.  R,  27;  7),  Leicester  Square 
(also  with  good  ballets).   Prices  78.  6d.,  58.,  28.  6d.,  is. 

Palace  Thbateb  of  Vabibtibs  (PI.  R,  27;  /),  Cambridge  Circus, 
Shaftesbury  Avenue.   Prices  7«.  6d.,  58.,  38.,  28.  6d.,  28.,  l8.,  Qd. 

London  Pavilion  (PI.  R,  27 ;  /),  Piccadilly  Circus.  Begins  at 
7.30  p.m.  Prices  58.,  48.,  38.,  la.  6d.,  1*. 

HiFFODBOMB  (PI.  R,  27;  //),  Cranboum  St.,  corner  of  Charing 
Cross  Road.  Performances  at  2  and  8  p.m.  Prices  78. 6(2.,  58.,  3s.,  is. 

The  Oxpobd  (PI.  R,  27;  /),  14  Oxford  Street.  Adm.  from  l8. 

TrvoLi  Thbatrb  of  Vabibtibs,  65  Strand.  Begins  at  7.30  p.m. 
Prices  58.,  38.,  28.,  l8.  6(2.,  l8. 

London  Coliseum,  St.  Martin's  Lane,  at  the  corner  of  Chandos 
Street.  Performances  at  2  and  8  p.m.  Prices  38.  6d.,  2s.  6(2.,  2s., 
Is.  G(2. 

Mbt&ofolitan  Thbatbb  of  Vabibtibs,  267  Edgware  Road. 
Begins  at  8  p.m.   Adm.  6(2.  to  22.  28.  (private  box). 

HoLBOEN  Empire  (Pi.  R,  32;  //),  242  High  Holbom.  Two  per- 
formances nightly;  matinees  on  Thurs.  and  Saturday.  Prices  38., 
28.,  Is.,  6(2. 

Cantbbbubt  Thbatbb  of  Vabibtibs  ,  143  Westminster  Bridge 
Road.    Entertainment  begins  at  7.40  p.m.    Adm.  from  6(2. 

Middlesex  Music  Hall,  Drury  Lane.  Begins  at  7.30p.m.  Prices 
from  6(2.  upwards. 

Royal  Viotobia  Coffee  Music  Hall,  131  Waterloo  Road,  Lam- 
beth, formerly  the  Victoria  Palace  Theatre.  Open  at  7  p.m.  Prices 
from  3(2.  to  lOs.  6(2.  (private  box). 

Pabagon  Thbatbb  of  Vabibtibs  ,  95  Mile  End  Road.  Begins 
at  7.30  p.m.    Admission  from  6(2.  upwards. 

Cambridge  Theatre  op  Varieties,  136  Commercial  St ,  E. 

Collinses  Music  Hall,  10  Islington  Green,  near  the  Royal  Agri- 
cultural Hall.  Admission  6(2.-38. 

South  London  Palace  of  Amusements,  92  London  Road,  St. 
George's  Fields,  near  the  Elephant  and  Castle,  a  large  hall  with 
5000  seats.  Concerts,  ballets,  etc.  Admission  28.,  Is.  6(2.,  Is.,  and  6(2. 

Exhibitions  and  Entertainments. 
Madame  Tussaud'b  Waxwork  Exhibition,  Marylebone  Road, 
near  Baker  Street  Station  (PI.  R,  20),  a  collection  of  wax  figures  of  an- 
cient and  modern  notabilities.  The  best  time  for  visiting  it  is  in  the 
evening,  by  electric  light.  Admission  Is.  —  At  the  back  (6(2.  extra) 
are  a  room  with  various  memorials  of  Napoleon  1.  and  the  ^Chamber 


11.   EXHIBITIONS.  49 

of  Horror s\  containing  the  guillotine  ^Mch  decapitated  Louii  XYI. 
and  Marie  Antoinette,  and  other  articles  of  a  ghaitly  natnre. 

St.  Geobgb's  Hall  (PI.  R,  24;  i),  Langham  Place.  Maskelyne 
and  Deyant's  conjuring  and  illusionary  performances  at  3  p.m. ; 
dramas  with  magical  effects  at  8  p.m.;  adm.  60.,  4«.,  Ss.,  29.,  la. 

AoBicuLTUBAL  Hall  (PI.  B,  36),  LiYorpool  Road,  Islington. 
Cattle  shows,  exhibitions,  lectures,  dioramas,  concerts,  etc. 

Hbngler's  Cirque  (PI.  R,  23;  /),  Argyle  St.,  Oxford  Circus; 
daily  at  3  and  8  p.m.    Adm.  from  la. 

OiNEMATOGBAPH  Enteetainmbnts.  Marlhorovgh  Hall,  Poly- 
technic, Regent  Str. ;  adm.  l8.-4s.  —  Halt^s  Tours  of  the  Worlds 
165  Oxford  St.;  cinematograph  views,  adm.  6d.  —  ArdmaUd  Pict- 
ure Show^  170  Piccadilly;  all  day,  adm.  Is.  including  tea. 

Crystal  Palace,  Sydenham  (p.  400).  Occasional  exhibitions, 
dog-shows,  cat-shows,  poultry-shows,  etc.;  pantomime  in  winter ; 
fireworks  on  Thursday  and  Saturday  eyenings  in  summer. 

Olympia,  opposite  the  Addison  Road  Station,  Kensington  (p.  31), 
a  huge  amphitheatre,  holding  10,000  people,  for  spectacular  per- 
formances, sporting  and  military  shows  (notably  the  Royal  Military 
Tournament  in  June),  bicycling  contests,  promenade  concerts,  etc. 
(see  daily  papers ;  adm.  l-5«.). 

Earl's  Court  Exhibition  Grounds  (PI.  G,  1,  2),  with  elaborate 
annual  'natlonar  exhibitions,  numerous  side-shows  (adm.  extra)) 
baads,  etc.  Other  features  are  a  switch-back  railway  and  a  water- 
chute.    Adm.  la.,  11  a.m.  to  11  p.m. 

Wbmblby  Pare,  to  the  N.W.  of  London.  Occasional  entertain* 
ments :  music,  boating  on  artificial  lake,  athletic  contests,  balloon 
ascents,  etc.  Admission  6d.  Train  from  Baker  St.  Station  (see  R.  44). 

Alexandra  Palace,  Muswell  Hill.  Theatrical  performances, 
concerts,  fetes,  huge  organ,  boating  lake,  skating  rink,  etc.  Ad- 
mission free,  except  on  so-called  'Maintenance  Days'  (14  yearly), 
when  a  small  charge  is  made.    See  p.  374. 

Fbanco-Bkitish  Exhibition,  Shepherd's  Bush.  The  exhibition,  which 
will  be  open  from  May  14th  to  October,  1908,  displays  in  numerous  handsome 
pavilions  and  galleries  examples  of  the  industries  and  arts  of  the  British 
Empire  and  of  France  and  her  Colonies.  The  grounds  (140  acres)  contain 
also  the  Stadium  in  which  will  be  decided  most  of  the  contests  of  the 
London  Olympic  Games  (4th  International  Olympiad)  to  be  held  in  July, 
1908.  —  The  main  entrance  is  in  Uxbridge  Road,  between  Shepherd's  Bash 
Station  (Central  London  Bail  way)  and  Uxbridge  Road  Station  (Metro.  Railway), 
and  is  within  the  four-mile  cab  radius  (p.  18).  There  is  another  entrance 
in  Wood  Lane  (stations,  see  pp.  31,  33). 


12.  Concerts  and  Exhibitions  of  Pictures. 

Corhcerta. 

Queen's  Hall  (PI.  R,  24;  JT),  Langham  Place,  W.,  a  large  hall 
with  3000  seats.  Among  the  concerts  given  here  are  the  Philharmonie 
Concerts  (Mr.  Fred.  Cowen,  conductor),  in  May  and  June;  the 

Bakdbkbu^s  London.    15th  Edit.  4 


50  12.  CONCERTS. 

Fromenade  Concerts,  daily  in  summei  (Aug.-Oct.)  at  8  p.m.,  adm. 
ia.'bs,,  and  the  Sunday  Afternoon  Concerts  (Mr.  Henry  J.  Wood, 
conductor  at  both),  in  winter ;  the  London  Symphony  Concerts  and 
the  Ballad  Concerts,  In  winter. 

St.  James'8  Hall  (PI.  B,  24;  7),  Great  Portland  St.,  a  new 
concert-hall  with  1200  seats,  opened  in  April,  1908;  numerous 
excellent  orchestral  and  other  concerts. 

Royal  Albbbt  Hall  (PL  R,  9),  South  Kensington  (p.  338). 
Sunday  afternoon  concerts  (seats  3d.-2«.)  in  winter,  and  musical 
fetes  and  concerts  on  a  large  scale  at  uncertain  intervals. 

Cbystal  Palacb,  Sydenham  (p.  400);  occasional  concerts. 

Albxandba  Palace  (p.  374);  occasional  concerts. 

Stbinwat  Hall  (PI.  R,  19 j  /),  15  Lower  Seymour  St.,  Portman 
Square. 

iEoLiAN  Hall,  135  Bond  St.  (PI.  R,23;  /);  good  chamber  music 
(Bohemian  Quartet,  etc.). 

Bechstbin  Hall,  Wigmore  St.  (PI.  R,  19;  /);  Nora  Clench 
Quartet  Concerts^  etc. 

Sallb  Eeabd,  Great  Marlborough  St.  (PI.  R,  23;  7). 

Beoadwood's  Hall,  Conduit  Street. 

Cavendish  Rooms,  61  Mortimer  Street. 

Exhibitions  of  Pictures. 

Royal  Academy  op  Fine  Arts  (PI.  R,  22;  /),  Burlington  Hovse, 
Piccadilly  (p.  265).  Exhibition  of  the  works  of  living  British 
painters  and  sculptors,  from  first  Monday  in  May  to  first  Monday 
in  August.  Open  daily  8-7 ;  admission  1 5.,  catalogue  1«.  During 
the  last  week  open  also  from  7.30  to  10.30  p.m. ;  admission  6d. 
Exhibition  of  the  works  of  Ancient  Masters  in  January  and  Febru- 
ary. Diploma  and  Gibson  galleries,  open  throughout  the  year  (see 
p.  265  ;  entrance  to  the  right  of  the  main  entrance). 

The  New  Galleby  (PI.  R,  23;  /),  121  Regent  Street.  Summer 
and  winter  exhibitions.   Admission  l^. 

Royal  Society  of  Painters  in  Water  Colours,  5a  Pall  Mall 
East.  Open  from  Easter  to  the  end  of  July,  and  from  December 
to  March;  admission  la.,  catalogue  is. 

Royal  Institute  op  Painters  in  Water  Colours,  191  Picca- 
dilly.   Exhibitions  from  March  to  the  end  of  June  (9-6 ;  Is.). 

Society  of  Oil  Painters.  Exhibition  at  191  Piccadilly  in 
Jan.  and  Feb.  (10-4;  la.). 

Society  of  Beitish  Artists  (PI.  R,  26;  /),  61/2  Suffolk  St.,  Pall 
Mall  East.  Exhibitions  from  Ist  April  to  1st  Aug.  (9-6)  and  from 
1st  Oct.  to  Iftt  Feb.  (10-6).    Admission  is. 

Royal  Society  op  Painter- Etchers.  Spring  exhibitions  at 
5a  Pall  Mall  East. 

New  English  Art  Club.  Exhibitions  at  the  Dudley  Gallery, 
169  Piccadilly  flO-O;  is.). 


.  12.   PlCTUllE  EXHIBITIONS.  51 

Society  of  Lady  Artists.  Summer  exhibition  at  the  Suffolk 
Street  Galleries  (p.  50);  admission  1«.,  catalogue  Gd. 

Do&i  Gallbsy,  35  New  Bond  St.,  containing  large  paintings 
\)y  Oustave  DorL   Daily,  10-6;  1«. 

Occasional  special  exhibitions  of  pictures  take  place  at  the 
Guildhall  (p.  110),  Whitbohapel  Abt  Galleby  (p.  144),  and  the 
GBArpoN  Gallbby  (pi.  R,  23;  i),  Grafton  St.,  Bond  Street.  These 
are  advertised  in  the  newspapers. 

There  are  also  in  winter  and  spring  Yarious  exhibitions  of  French, 
Belgian,  German,  Dutch,  and  other  paintings  at  120  Pall  Vail  (French 
Gallery).  43  Old  Bond  8t.  (Agnew's),  5  Begent  St.  (Goupil  Gallery),  236a 
Regent  St.  (Holland  GaUery),  U8  New  Bond  St.  (Fine  Art  Society),  160  New 
Bond  St.  (Dowdeswell  Galleries),  157a  Kew  Bond  St.  (Continental  Gallery), 
175  New  Bond  St.  (Mr.  Tooth),  7  Haymarket  (McLean's),  the  St.  James 
Gallery,  4a  King  St.,  Carfax  Gallery,  24  Bury  St.,  Leicester  Galleries, 
20  Green  St.,  Leicester  Square,  etc.    Usual  charge  1«. 

13.  Races,  Sports,  and  Games. 

Archery.  The  focus  of  this  sport  in  London  is  in  the  grounds 
of  the  Royal  ToxopMlite  Society,  Regent's  Park  (see  p.  285). 

Atliletiet.  The  ehief  scene  of  athletic  sports  of  all  kinds  is 
Stamford  Bridge  Sports  Ground  on  the  Falham  Road,  where  the 
London  Athletic  Club  has  its  headquarters.  The  Amateur  Champion- 
ships of  the  United  Kingdom  are  decided  here  when  these  sports  are 
held  in  London  (every  third  year;  1908, 1911,  etc.).  The  University 
Sports,  between  Oxford  and  Cambridge,  take  place  at  Queen's  Club, 
in  the  Boat  Race  week  (see  below).  The  card  now  comprises  ten 
^events'.  It  was  at  Queen's  Club  that  the  International  contests  be- 
tween Oxford  and  Cambridge  on  the  one  side  and  Harvard  and  Yale 
on  the  other  took  place  in  1899  and  1904.  The  Oerman  Qymnastic 
Society,  26  St.  Pancras  Road,  King's  Cross,  takes  the  lead  among  all 
gymnastic  clubs;  about  half  of  its  7-800  members  are  English.  The 
Amateur  Athletic  A$$ociation  (hon.  sec.  Mr.  P.  L.  Fisher,  10  John  St., 
Adelphi)  consists  of  representatives  of  the  leading  athletic  clubs. 

Aquatics.  The  chief  event  in  the  year  is  the  Oxford  and  Cam- 
bridge Boat  Race ,  usually  rowed  on  the  second  Saturday  before 
Easter.  The  course  is  on  the  Thames ,  from  Putney  to  Mortlake ; 
the  distance  is  just  over  4^4  M.,  and  the  time  occupied  in  rowing 
it  varies  from  just  under  20  min.  to  23  min.,  according  to  the 
state  of  the  wind  and  tide.  The  Londoners  pour  out  to  see  the 
boat-race  in  almost  as  great  crowds  as  to  the  Derby,  sympathetic- 
ally exhibiting  in  some  portion  of  their  attire  either  the  dark-blue 
colours  of  Oxford  or  the  light-blue  of  Cambridge.  —  There  are  also 
several  regattas  held  upon  the  Thames.  Henley  Regatta  (at  the 
beginning  of  July),  the  chief  of  these,  is  also  an  important  society- 
function,  characteristically  English  (numerous  house  -  boats).  To 
Henley  crews  are  usually  sent  from  the  universities  of  Oxford,- 
Cambridge,  and  Dublin,  by  Eton  College,  and  by  the  London  Row- 

4* 


52  13.  RACES,  SPORTS,  GAMES. 

ing  Glabf  the  Leander,  the  Thames  Club,  and  other  clubs  of  more 
or  less  note.  Crews  from  American  nniversities  and  from  other 
countries  frequently  take  part  in  the  proceedings.  Of  the  other 
Thames  regattas,  the  best  are  those  of  MoUsty,  Reading^  Goring  ^ 
Streatleyj  Marlow^  Staines^  and  Walton.  —  On  Aug.  Ist  a  boat-race 
takes  place  among  young  Thames  watermen  for  Doggeti's  Coat  and 
Badge,  a  prize  founded  by  Doggett,  the  comedian,  in  1715.  The 
course  is  from  Old  Swan  Pier,  London  Bridge,  to  the  site  of  the 
Old  Swan  at  Chelsea,  about  6  miles.  —  Yacht-races  are  held  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Thames  in  summer,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Royal  Thama  Yacht  Clvb,  the  Royal  London  Yacht  Club,  the  Royal 
Corinthian  Yacht  Club,  and  the  New  Thames  Yacht  Clii,  See  the 
Rowing  Almanack  (is, ;  Field  Office). 

BiUiards.  The  chief  matches  are  played  in  the  rooms  of  Bur- 
roughes  §r  Watt,  19  Soho  Square,  and  Thurston  ^  Co,  45  Leicester 
Square,  comfortable  accommodation  being  provided  in  each  case  for 
spectators  (adm.  48.,  28.  6d.,  Is.).  —  Billiard-tables  will  be  found 
in  almost  every  hotel  and  large  restaurant  or  public-house.  The 
usual  charge  is  Is.  per  hr.  (Is.  6d.  by  artificial  light)  or  Gd.  per 
game  of  fifty.  Among  billiard-rooms  may  be  mentioned  those  of 
Beallj  Brighton  Chambers,  Denman  St.,  London  Bridge;  Cook, 
Panton  St.,  Haymarket;  the  J16iel  Victoria  (p.  4);  and  Carlo  Gatti, 
Villiers  St.  The  arc-oval  table  is  to  be  found  at  the  Hotel  Victoria, 
Shelley's  Hotel,  8  Albemarle  St.,  and  elsewhere. 

Boxing.  Among  the  chief  boxing  clubs  in  London  are  the  West 
London  Boxing  Club,  the  National  Sporting  Club,  and  the  Cestus 
Boxing  Club,  and  there  are  also  boxing  clubs  in  connection  with 
the  German  Gymnastic  Society,  the  London  Athletic  Club,  etc.  Most 
of  these  are  affiliated  to  the  Amateur  Boxing  Association,  A  com- 
petition for  amateur  boxers  is  held  yearly,  the  prizes  being  hand- 
some challenge  cups  presented  by  the  Marquis  of  Queensberry. 

Chess.  London  contains  numerous  first-class  chess-clubs,  the 
chief  being  the  City  of  London  Chess  Club,  Grocers'  Hall,  Poultry, 
E.  C,  and  the  St,  George's,  2  Savile  Row,  W.  —  Chess  is  played  at 
the  London  Tavern  (p.  15),  the  Ship  ^^  Turtle  (p.  15),  the  Vienna 
Cafi  (p.  16),  the  Gambit  Cafe,  Oheapside,  and  in  many  other  cafes. 

Cricket.  Lord's  at  St.  John's  Wood  (p.  290),  the  headquarters 
of  the  Marylebone  Club  (sec,  Mr.  F.  E.  Lacey),  is  the  chief 
cricket-ground  in  London.  Here  are  played ,  in  June  and  July, 
the  Eton  and  Harrow,  the  Oxford  and  Cambridge,  and  many  other 
matches.  The  Kennington  Oval  (p.  382),  the  headquarters  of  the 
Surrey  County  Club,  is  also  an  important  cricket-centre.  The  Lon- 
don County  Club  (captain,  Dr.  W.  G.  Grace)  plays  at  the  Crystal 
Palace  (p.  403).  The  Essex  County  Club  ground  is  at  Leyton  (p.  414). 

Croquet  has  of  late  come  again  into  favour  and  is  played  at  many 
different  places.  The  chief  tournaments  take  place  at  Sheen  House 
(headquarters  of  the  Croquet  Association'),  Wimbledon  (All  England 


13.    RACES,  SPORTS,  GAMES.  53 

Lawn  Tennis  ^  Croquet  Club),  and  the  Qaeen^s  Club,  West  Ken- 
sington. 

Cycling.  There  are  now  a  great  many  cycling  clubs  in  London, 
the  oldest  of  which  was  founded  in  1870.  The  chief  bicycle  race- 
meetings  are  held  at  Catford,  Putney,  Heme  Hill,  the  Crystal  Palace, 
Alexandra  Park,  and  Wood  Green. 

Excellent  cycling  may  be  bad  within  easy  reach  of  London,  in  Herts 
and  W.  Essex  to  the  N.  and  in  Surrey  and  the  W.  border  of  Kent  to  the  S. 
The  S.  district  is  much  more  hilly,  bat  offers  more  beautiful  scenery.  A 
favourite  ride  is  that  vi&  Windsor  to  Oxford.  The  main  roads  leading  out 
of  London  are  generally  rather  rough,  owing  to  the  heavy  traffic ;  hence  it 
may  be  advisable,  especially  for  those  not  accustomed  to  crowded  roads, 
to  take  the  train  to  a  station  a  few  miles  out. 

The  English  ^rule  of  the  road^  is  the  reverse  of  that  on  the  Continent 
and  in  America;  keep  to  the  Uft  in  meeting,  to  the  right  in  overtaking 
vehicles.    Lamps  must  be  lit  at  dusk. 

The  headquarters  of  the  NatUmal  CyclUtt'  Union^  the  governing  body 
for  cycle  racing  in  England  and  Wales,  are  at  27  Chancery  Lane  (sec, 
Mr.  Sam.  R.  Noble),  and  those  of  the  Oyclittt^  Touring  Club  are  at  47 
Victoria  St..  Westminster  (sec,  Mr.  W.  A.  Russell).  Cyclists  touring  in 
Great  Britain  will  find  it  advantageous  to  Join  the  C.  T.  C.  (subs.  ««.), 
the  Touring  Bareau  of  which  is  always  ready  to  help  strangers  in  plan- 
ning their  tours;  members  are  entitled  to  reduced  prices  at  hotels  in  all 
parts  of  the  country.  Exhibitions  of  bicycles,  tricycles,  and  their  acces- 
sories are  held  in  London  annually.  Compare  the  Monthly  QtuetU  of  the 
Cyclists*  Touring  Club. 

Fishing  (roach,  perch,  gndgeon,  pike,  barbel,  dace,  and  trout) 
can  be  indulged  in  at  all  places  on  the  Thamea  between  Richmond 
and  Wallingford.  No  permission  is  required,  except  in  priyate  waters. 
The  services  of  a  fisherman,  with  punt  and  tackle,  can  be  secured 
at  a  charge  of  about  10s.  per  day,  the  hirer  prOYiding  him  with 
dinner  and  beer.  The  Lea  (p.  416),  Darent,  Brenty  Colne,  etc., 
also  afford  good  opportunities  to  the  London  angler.  See  the  AngUrs 
Diary  (Field  Office,  346  Strand;  Is.  6ci.),  and  compare  p.  416. 

Football.  Football  is  in  season  from  about  September  to  April. 
The  chief  matches  under  the  Rugby  Football  Union  rules  are  played 
at  the  Rectory  Field^  BlacJdieath  (headquarters  of  the  Blackheath 
Football  Club);  Richmond  Old  Deer  Park  (London  Scottish  Club); 
and  Richmond  Athletic  Oround  (Richmond  Club).  The  Crystal 
Palace  and  the  Essex  County  Ground  at  Ley  ton  are  the  scenes  of 
the  best  matches  under  the  Football  Association  rules.  The  Oxford 
and  Cambridge  matches  (both  Rugby  and  Association)  are  decided 
at  Qiuen's  Clvh,  West  Kensington, 

Oolf.  Golf,  which  is  in  season  all  the  year  round,  Is  played  at 
Blackheath  (p.  395),  Richmond,  Wimbledon,  Tooting,  Wembley,  North- 
loood,  EUham,  Cassiobury  Park,  West  Drayton,  Ealing,  Mitcham, 
StanmorCf  and  a  score  of  other  places  near  London,  at  all  of  which 
an  introduction  to  the  club  is  essential.  There  is  a  public  golf- 
course  at  Chingford  (p.  416). 

Hockey  is  rapidly  growing  in  popularity,  and  there  are  many 
clubs  in  or  near  London  affiliated  to  the  Hockey  AtsodaXion.  Hockey 
la  also  extensively  played  by  ladies. 


54  13.   RACES,  SPORTS,  GAMES. 

Horse  Racing.  The  principal  race-meetings  taking  place 
within  easy  distance  of  London  are  the  following :  — 

1.  The  Epsom  Summer  Meetingy  at  which  the  Derby  and  Oaka 
are  ran.  The  former  invariably  takes  place  on  a  Wednesday,  and 
the  latter  on  a  Friday,  the  date  being  generally  within  a  fortnight 
before  or  after  Whitsuntide  (end  of  May  or  beginning  of  Jnne). 

The  Derby  was  instituted  by  the  Earl  of  Derby  in  1780,  and  the 
value  of  the  stakes  now  sometimes  exceeds  60002.  The  length  of  the 
course  is  V/t  M.,  and  it  was  gone  over  by  Spearmint  in  190d  in  2  min. 
36^/5  sec,  the  shortest  time  on  record.  Both  horses  and  mares  are  allowed 
to  compete  for  the  Derby  (mares  carrying  Sib.  less  weight),  while  the 
Oaks  is  confined  to  mares.  In  both  cases  the  age  of  the  horses  running 
must  be  three  years.  To  view  these  races  London  empties  itself  annually 
by  road  and  rail,  though  Parliament  no  longer  suspends  its  sitting  on 
Derby  Day,  once  its  almost  invariable  custom.  The  London  and  Brighton 
Railway  Company  (London  Bridge  and  Victoria  stations)  has  a  station  at 
Epsom  close  to  the  course,  and  it  may  be  reached  also  by  the  London 
and  South  Western  Railway  from  Waterloo  or  by  the  South  Eastern  Bail- 
way  from  Charing  Cross.  The  increased  facilities  for  reaching  Epsom  by 
train  have  somewhat  diminished  the  popularity  of  the  road;  but  the 
traveller  who  would  see  the  Derby  Day  and  its  characteristic  sights 
thoroughly  will  not  regret  his  choice  if  he  select  the  latter.  A  decently 
appointed  open  carriage  and  pair,  holding  four  persons,  will  cost  &-10/., 
everything  included.  A  hansom  cab  can  be  had  for  rather  less  than  half 
that  amount,  but  an  arrangement  should  be  made  with  the  driver  on  the 
previous  day.  A  seat  on  a  coach  or  brake  may  usually  be  secured  for 
about  2l.,  lancheon  included.  The  appearance  of  Epsom  Downs  on  Derby 
Day,  crowded  with  myriads  of  human  beings,  is  one  of  the  most  striking 
and  animated  sights  ever  witnessed  in  the  neighbourhood  of  London,  and 
will  interest  the  ordinary  visitor  more  than  Uie  great  race  itself. 

2.  The  Ascot  Week  is  about  a  fortnight  after  the  Derby.  The 
Gold  Gup  Day  is  on  Thursday,  when  some  members  of  the  Royal 
Family  usually  drive  up  the  course  in  state,  attended  by  the  master 
and  huntsmen  of  the  Royal  Buckhounds.  The  course  is  reached  by 
train  from  Waterloo ;  or  the  visitor  may  travel  by  the  Great  Western 
Railway  (Paddington  Station)  to  Windsor  and  drive  thence  to  Ascot. 

3.  At  Sandown,  near  Esher,  at  Kempton  Parfc,  Sunbury,  and  at 
the  Hurst  Park  Clvb,  Hampton,  races  and  steeple-chases  are  held 
several  times  during  the  year. 

4.  The  Epsom  Spring  Meeting^  lasting  for  three  days,  on  one  of 
which  the  City  and  Suburban  Handicap  is  decided. 

Besides  the  above  there  are  numerous  smaller  race-meetings  near 
London,  but  with  the  exception  of  that  at  Croydon  they  will  hardly  repay 
the  trouble  of  a  visit,  as  they  are  largely  patronized  by  the  ^rough*  ele- 
ment. The  stranger  should,  if  possible,  attend  races  and  other  public 
gatherings  in  company  with  a  friend  who  is  well  acquainted  with  the  best 
method  of  seeing  the  sport.  Much  trouble  and  disappointment  will  be 
thereby  avoided. 

ITeumiarkety  the  headquarters  of  racing,  and  Ooodxeood  Races t  see 
Baedeker^t  Grtat  Britain. 

Hunting.  This  sport  is  carried  on  throughout  England  from 
autumn  to  spring.  Cub  -  hunting  generally  begins  in  September 
and  continues  until  31st  October.  Regular  fox-hunting  then  takes  its 
place  and  lasts  till  about  the  middle  of  April.  Hare-hunting  lasts 
from  2dth  Oct.  to  27th  Feb.,  and  buck-hunting  begins  on  14th  Sep* 


13.  RA.CES,  SPORTS,  GAMES.  55 

tember.  Should  the  traveller  be  staying  in  the  country  he  will  prob- 
ably have  but  little  difficulty  in  seeing  a  meet  of  a  pack  of  fox-* 
hounds.  The  Surrey  fox-hounds  are  the  nearest  to  London.  There 
is  a  pack  of  harriers  at  Brighton.  The  Royal  Buckhounds  often  meet 
in  the  vicinity  of  Windsor,  and  when  this  is  the  case  the  journey 
can  be  easily  made  from  London.  The  quarry  is  a  stag,  which  is 
allowed  to  escape  from  a  cart.  The  huntsmen  and  whippers-in  wear 
a  scarlet  and  gold  uniform.  The  followers  of  the  hounds  wear  scarlet, 
black,  and  indeed  any  colour,  and  this  diversity,  coupled  with  the 
large  attendance  in  carriages,  on  foot,  and  on  horseback,  makes 
the  scene  a  very  lively  one.    For  meets  of  hounds,  see  the  Field, 

Motoring.  Motor-cars  and  motor-cycles  in  Great  Britain  must 
be  registered  (fee  il,  and  55.  respectively)  and  must  bear  their 
registered  numbers.  The  driver  must  hold  a  licence  (annual  fee 
55.),  for  which,  however,  no  examination  need  be  passed.  The 
maximum  legal  speed  under  any  circumstances  is  20  M.  per  hour, 
but  in  certain  localities  (e,g,  the  London  parks)  or  in  special  circum- 
stances it  may  be  much  less.  Automobile  Club,  see  p.  75.  Rule  of 
the  road,  see  under  Cycling  (p.  53).  —  The  Brooklands  Racing 
Track,  opened  in  1907,  is  at  Weybridge,  about  20  M.  to  the  S.W. 
of  London  (adm.  2^.  Gd.,  grand  stand  55.,  lawn  2l5.). 

LacTOBSO  is  now  played  by  about  a  score  of  clubs  in  or  near 
London,  and  the  chief  authority  in  this  part  of  the  country  is  the 
South  of  England  Lacrosse  Association.  The  final  ties  of  the  Inter- 
national and  North  v.  South  matches  are  generally  played  either  on 
the  Richmond  Athletic  Ground  or  at  the  Crystal  Palace.  The  game 
is  also  played  at  Lord's  Cricket  Ground  (p.  290).  Canadian  teamg 
sometimes  visit  England  and  play  exhibition  matches. 

Lawn  Tennis.  The  governing  and  controlling  body  for  this 
pastime  is  the  Lawn  Tennis  Association  (Hon.  Sec,  Mr.  G.  R. 
Mewbum,  33  Old  Broad  St.,  E.C.),  established  in  1888.  The  com- 
petition for  the  Lawn  Tennis  Championship  of  the  World  takes 
place  on  the  ground  of  the  All  England  Lawn  Tennis  Club^  Wim- 
bledon, beginning  on  the  Monday  nearest  June  22nd.  The  Covered 
Court  Championship  (end  of  April)  and  other  important  competi- 
tions are  decided  at  Queen's  Club  (p.  75).  Courts  open  to  strangers 
are  found  at  the  Crystal  Palace,  Battersea  Park,  and  other  public 
gardens,  drill-halls,  etc.,  but  this  game  cannot  be  enjoyed  to  per- 
fection except  in  club  or  private  grounds. 

Polo  is  played  mainly  at  HurUngham  (p.  386),  Ranelagh  (p.  386), 
and  the  Crystal  Palace  (p.  403). 

Backets  and  Court  Tennis  are  played  at  Lord's  (p.  290),  Prince's 
Club,  and  Queen's  Club  (p.  75).  The  Amateur  Championships  in 
tennis  and  rackets  and  the  Public  Schools  and  University  Rackets 
Competitions  are  decided  at  Queen's  Club ;  the  Gold  Backet  Tennis 
Competition  at  Lord's;  and  the  Army  Racket  Championship  at 
Prince's  Club. 


56  14.  SHOPS. 

Skating.  Among  the  chief  skating  resorts  in  or  near  London  are 
Elstree  Reservoir,  the  Welsh  Harp  (p.  417),  Ruislip  Reservoir  (p.  420), 
Wimbledon  Park  (p.  404),  Wembley  Park  (p.  420),  the  Serpentine 
(p.  327),  Regent's  Park  (p.  286),  Hampstead  Heath  (p.  371),  and 
(indoors)  Princess  Club,  Knightsbridge  (p.  75).  The  headquarters  of 
the  Skating  Club  are  in  the  gardens  of  the  Toxophilite  Society  (p.  285). 
The  Hon.  Secretary  of  the  National  Skating  Association  of  Great 
Britain  is  Mr.  H.  Ellington,  London  Rowing  Club,  Putney,  S.W., 
the  London  headquarters  being  at  Elstree  Reservoir. 

Swimming.  London  contains  over  300  swimming  clubs ,  with 
their  headquarters  at  the  public  baths  (p.  17).  Most  of  them  are 
affiliated  to  the  Boyal  Life  Saving  Society  (8  Bayley  St.,  Bedford 
Square,  W.C.),  established  in  1891  for  the  purpose  of  teaching  how 
to  rescue  those  in  danger  of  drowning  and  restore  the  apparently 
drowned.  Periodical  tests  of  efficiency  are  held  (apply  to  the  hon. 
secretary).  The  Amateur  Swimming  Association  conducts  various 
championship  competitions,  swum  in  the  Thames  and  elsewhere. 
Water  Polo  is  also  very  popular,  and  games  may  be  seen  any  even- 
ing in  summer  at  any  of  the  public  baths. 


14.  Shops,  Bazaars,  and  Markets. 
The  Go-operative  System. 

Shops  abound  everywhere.  In  the  business-quarters  usually 
visited  by  strangers  it  is  rare  to  see  a  house  vnthout  shops  on  the 
groundfloor.  Prices  are  almost  invariably  fixed,  so  that  bargaining 
is  unnecessary.  Some  of  the  most  attractive  shops  are  in  Regent  St., 
Oxford  St.,  Piccadilly,  Bond  St.,  the  Strand,  Fleet  St.,  Cheapside, 
St.  Paul's  Churchyard,  and  Ludgate  Hill. 

The  following  is  a  brief  list  of  some  of  the  best  (and,  in  many 
cases,  the  dearest)  shops  in  London ;  it  is,  however,  to  be  observed 
that  other  excellent  shops  abound  in  all  parts  of  London,  in  many 
cases  no  whit  inferior  to  those  here  mentioned.  Besides  shops  con- 
taining the  articles  usually  purchased  by  travellers  for  their  personal 
use,  or  as  presents,  we  mention  a  few  of  the  large  depots  of  famous 
English  manufactures,  such  as  cutlery,  china,  and  water-colours. 

Aetists'  Coloubmen:  —  Ackermann^  203  Regent  St.  (water 
colours);  JVcioman,  24  Soho  Square;  Rowney  ^  Co.,  61  Brompton 
Road,  S.W. ;  Winsor  ^  Newton,  37  Rathbone  Place. 

BooKSBLLBBS :  —  Hatchard,  187  Piccadilly;  J.  ^  E.  Bumpus, 
350  Oxford  St.;  Harrison  ^  Sons,  45  Pall  Mall ;  Bain,  14  Charles  St. , 
Haymarket;  Bickers ^ Son,  1  Leicester  Square;  Truslove ^- Hanson^ 
153  Oxford  St.;  Gilbert  ^  Field,  67  Moorgate  St.;  Stoneham, 
79  &  129  Cheapside,  9  Old  Broad  St.,  39  Walbrook,  etc.; 
Sotheran  ^  Co.,  37  Piccadilly  and  140  Strand;  Alfred  Wilson^ 
18  Gracechurch  St.;  Dunn,  23  Ludgate  Hill,  etc. ;.^.  ^umyiw, 


14.    SHOPS.  57 

335  High  Holbora;  Jones  ^  Evan$,  77  Queen  St.,  Oheapside.  — 
F0B.B10N  B00K8SLLBR8 :  Dulau  ^  Co,y  37  Soho  Square  (general 
agents  for  Baedeker^s  Handbooks) ;  Williams  ^  Norgate,  14  Hen- 
rietta St.,  Covent  Garden;  Hachette,  18  King  William  St.,  West 
Strand;  Nutt^  57  Long  Acre;  Boquesy  97  New  Oxford  St. ;  Rolandi, 
20  Berners  St. ;  Siegle,  30  Lime  St.  and  2  Langham  Place ;  Luzae^ 
46  Great  Russell  St.  —  Secondhand  Booksbllbbs:  Quaritchf  11 
Grafton  St.;  EUis,  Holdsworth,  ^ 8mith,  29  New  Bond  St.;  Francis 
EdwardSy  83a  High  St.,  Marylebone,  W. ;  Sotheran^  see  p.  56; 
Stevens, Son,  ^  StUes,  39  Great  Russell  St.,  W.G. ;  Pickering  ^  Chatio, 
BBHaymarket;  C.^  E.Brown,  119  Queen's  Road,  Bayswater;Do6e2;, 
54  and  77  Charing  Cross  Road ;  Winter,  52  Charing  Cross  Road. 

Cabpbts:  —  Gregory  ^  Co.,  19  Old  Cavendish  St.,  W. ; 
Hampton  ^  Sons,  8-10  Pall  Mall  East;  Liberty,  142-154  Regent  St. ; 
Shoolbred^Co.,  150-162,  Afapfe,  141-150  Tottenham  Court  Road; 
Waring  ^  Gillow,  170-180  Oxford  St. ;  Cardinal  ^  Harford  (Turkish 
carpets),  108-110  High  Holborn;  Ooodyers  (Oriental),  198  Regent 
St. ;  Trdoar,  68-70  Lndgate  Hill. 

Chemists:  —  Ptiekard,  lOYigo  St., Regent  St.;  Squire  ^  Sons, 
413  Oxford  St. ;  Bell  ^  Co.,  225  Oxford  St. ;  Challice,  34  VllUers 
St.,  Strand;  Pond,  68  Fleet  St.;  Nurtken  ^  Co,,  390  Strand; 
Savory  #  Moore,  143  New  Bond  St. ;  Thomas,  7  Upper  St.  Martin's 
Lane  (moderate  prices).  —  Homeopathic  Chemists:  Amibrechtj 
Nelson,^  Co., 71  Duke  St.,  Grosvenor Square, W. ;  Keene ^  Ashwetl,  6 
South  Molton  St.,  W. ;  Leath  ^  Ross,  68  Duke  St.,  Grosvenor  Square ; 
Cruttenden,  67  Wigmore  St. ;  Oould  ^  Son,  59  Moorgate  St.,  E.C. 

Messrs.  Burroughs,  Wtlleoms^  A  Co.,  Hanufactaring  Chemists,  Snow 
Hill  Buildings,  Holborn  Viaduct,  prepare  portable  drugs  in  the  form  of 
tabloids,  which  will  be  found  exceedingly  convenient  by  travellers.  Their 
small  and  light  pocket-cases  contain  a  selection  of  the  most  useful  re- 
medies in  this  form.   These  tabloid  drugs  may  be  obtained  of  all  chemists. 

China,  see  Glass. 

CuTLBBT :  —  Aiprey  ^  Co.,  166  NewBondSt.  and  22  Albemarle 
St.;  Holtzapffel  ^  Co.,  53  Haymarket;  Lund,  56-57  Cornhill; 
Mappin  ^  Webb,  220  Regent  St.,  158-162  Oxford  St.,  and  2 
Queen  Victoria  St.;  Verinder,  17a  Ludgate  Hill;  Rodgers  ^  Sons, 
60  Holborn  Viaduct;  Weiss  ^'  Son,  287  Oxford  St.  Also  travelling- 
bags,  writing-cases,  dispatch-boxes,  etc.,  at  most  of  these. 

Dentists:  —  A.  A.  Goldsmith  (American),  53  Harley  St.,  W. ; 
K.  A,  Davenport  (Amer.),  20  Stratford  Place,-  Oxford  St;  Coffin 
(Amer.),  94  Cornwall  Gardens;  Pierrepoint,  2  Cockspur  St.,  W.; 
Spokes,  4  Portland  Place,  W. ;  Durujan,  9  Charles  St.,  St.  James's,  W. ; 
Gabriel,  7  Portland  Place  ;  Fleming,  13  Queen  Anne  St.,  Cavendish 
Square,  W.;  R.  C.  Morits,  130  Cromwell  Road,  S.W.  (the  last  two 
somewhat  less  expensiye);  E.Sturridge,  29a  Wimpole  St.;  A.  C, 
PHtchard,  23  Brook  St. 

Dbafebs  :  —  Debenham^  Freebody,  17-37  Wigmore  St.,  Caven- 
diBh  Square,  W. ;  Mar  shall  ^Snelgrove,  334-354  Oxford  St. ;  BusseU^ 


58  14.  SHOPS. 

Allen,  17  Old  Bond  St. ;  Liberty  (Oriental  fabrics),  142  and  218 
Regent  St.;  Ooodyera  (Oriental  goods),  174  and  198  Regent  St. ; 
Otren,  12a-22  Westbonrne  Grove, Bay swater,  W. ;  Redmayne  ^  Co., 
19  New  Bond  St. ;  Shoolbred  ^  Co.,  161  &  162  Tottenham  Conrt 
Road,  W.  C;  Derry  ^  Toms,  99-119  Kensington  High  St.;  Capper^ 
Son,  ^  Co,  (linen),  29  Regent  St.  and  67  New  Bond  St. ;  Dickins^ 
Jones,  230-244  Regent  St. ;  Bolhuon  ^  Cleaver  (Irish  linen),  156-170 
Regent  St.;  Walpole  Brothers  (Irish  linen),  89  New  Bond  St.; 
Harrod's  Stores,  87-135  Brompton  Road ;  Swan  ^  Edgar  (Waterloo 
House),  39-67 Regent  St.,  and  9-15Piccadilly;  *S«?/tWj^«, 406 etc.  Ox- 
ford St. ;  PeUr  Robinson,  200-234  Oxford  St.  and  274-286  Regent  St. ; 
Whiteley,  31-55  Westboume  Grove,  Bayswater,W. ;  Hitchcock  ^  Co,, 
69-74  St.  Paul's  Churchyard,  City;  WalUs  ^  Co.,7  Holborn  Circus; 
Evans,  292-320  Oxford  St. ;  Jaeger's  Sanitary  Woollen  System  Co., 
30  Sloane  St.,  456  Strand,  and  126  Regent  St.,  etc. 

Dbessmakeas: —  Viola,  27AIbemarie  St. ;  lAberty  (^iit  costumes), 
142  and  218  Regent  St.;  Mme.  Swaebi et  Cie,,  48  Baker  St.,  W.; 
Durrani,  116  New  Bond  St. ;  Mrs.  NettUship,  28  Wigmore  St. ;  Carey  ^ 
Wall,  8  Bruton  St.,  W.;  Forma,  40  Conduit  St.;  Worth,  4  New 
Buriington  St. ;  Paquin,  39  Dover  St;  Kate  Reily,  10  Dover  St. 
See  also  Drapers  and  Ladies'  Tailors. 

Engravings:  —  Colnaghi  ^  Co.,  13  and  14  Pall  Mall  East; 
Graves,  6  Pall  Mall;  Marchznt  ^  Co,  (successors  of  Ooupil  ^ 
Co.^,  6Regent  St.,  Pall  Mall,  and  10  Charies  St.,  St.  James's,  S.W. ; 
JlfacZean,  7  Haymaiket ;  Tooth,  176  New  Bond  St.  ;  Lefhvre,  1a  King 
St.,  St.  James's  Square;  A.  Ackermann  ^  Son,  191  Regent  St.; 
Leggatt,  62  Cheapside  and  30  St.  James's  St. ;  Agnevj  ^  Sons,  43 
Old  Bond  St. ;  Deighton,  4  Grand  Hotel  Buildings,  Charing  Cross. 

Fubniture:  —  Waring  ^  Oillow  170-180  Oxford  St. ;  Smee  ^ 
Cobay,iSd  New  Bond  St. ;  Story,  49-53  Kensington  High  St. ;  Liberty, 
142  and  218  Regent  St. ;  Shoolbred,  151  &  162,  MapU,  141-150  Tot- 
tenham Court  Road ;  Graham  ^  Riddle,  463  Oxford  St ;  Hampton 
t?'  Sons,  8-11  Pall  Mall  East;  Goodyers  (Oriental  goods),  198  & 
174  Regent  St.;  Harrod^s  Stores,  87-135  Brompton  Road. 

Furriers:  —  Victory  ^  Co.,  162  Regent  St;  Debenham  ^ 
Freebody,  37  Wigmore  St. ;  Ince,  156,  Marshall  ^  Snelgrove,  334- 
354,  Poland,  190,  Peter  Robinson,  200-234,  all  in  Oxford  St. ;  Russ, 
70  New  Bond  St. 

Games,  Requisites  por:  —  Wisden  ^  Co,,  21  Cranbourn  St., 
W.  C;  Feliham  ^  Co.,  73  Lower  Thames  St.;  Ayres,  111  Alders- 
gate  St.,  E.  C;  Hovenden,  29-33  Bemers  St.,  W.,  and  85  City  Road, 
E.  C. ;  Gamage,  118-128  Holborn ;  Park  (golf),  115  Cannon  St.,  E.  C. ; 
Tate,  18  Princes  St.,  Cavendish  Square  (tennis  rackets);  Slasenger, 
Laurence  Pountney  Hill,  E.  C;  Holden,  10  Upper  Baker  St,  N.W. 
(tennis  rackets):  Jaques,  102  Hatton  Garden,  E.  C;  Lillywhite, 
Frowd,  ^  Co.,2i  Hay  market,  W.,  and  2  Newington  Causeway,  S.  E.; 
Piggott,  117  Cheapside,  E.  C;    Parkins  ^  Gotto,  54-62  Oxford  St. 


14.   SHOPS.  59 

Glass  and  Poboblain:  —  Osier ,  100  Oxford  St.;  Phillips^  43 
New  Bond  St. ;  Mortloeks  Limited,  466-470  Oxford  St.  and  32 
Orchard  St.;  Daniell  ^  Sons,  42-46  Wigmore  St.  ;  PcWa«<^  Co.,  21 
Northumberland  Avenue ;  Standish,  58  Baker  St. ;  Qoode,  17-21 
South  Audley  St. ;  Qreen,  107  Queen  Victoria  St. ;  Venice  and  Murano 
Olass  Co,,  13  New  Bond  St. 

Glotbs:  —  See  Drapees  (p.  57).  Also:  Wheeler,  14-17  Poultry 
and  8  Queen  Victoria  St.,  City  ]  PenbeHky,  388-392  Oxford  St.  (French 
gloves) ;  Jugla,  34  Coventry  St.,  W. ;  Swears  ^  We^to  190-196  Regent 
St. ;  London  Olove  Co.,  83  New  Bond  St.  (Ist  floor)  and  45  Cheap- 
side;  Sleep  (driving  gloves),  9  Woodstock  St.,  Oxford  St.,  and  10 
Knightsbridge. 

Goldsmiths  and  Jewbllsbs:  —  Oass  ^  Co.,  138  Regent  St.; 
Garrard^  Co.,  26  Haymarket;  Lambert  ^  Co.,  10-12  Coventry 
St.,  Haymarket;  Hancocks  ^  Co.,  38  and  39  Bruton  St.  and  152 
New  Bond  St. ;  Hunt  ^  Roskdl,  156  New  Bond  St. ;  Tiffany,  221 
Regent  St. ;  EZkington  ^  Co. ,  22  Regent  St.  and 73  Oheapside  (electro- 
plate) ;  Packer,  76  Regent  St. ;  Mrs.  Newman,  10  Savile  Row,  W. ; 
Goldsmiths' ^  SUversmiths'  Co.,  112  Regent  St. ;  Watherston  ^Son, 
6  Vigo  St. ;  Liberty  and  Ooodyers  (Oriental  jewelry),  see  under 
Drapers;  SpMc  ^  Son  (medals),  17  Piccadilly,  30  Oomhill,  and  6 
King  St.,  St.  James's. 

Gun  and  Riplb  Makbbs  :  —  WesUey  Richards,  178  New  Bond 
St.;  Lancaster,  11  Panton  St.,  Haymarket;  Rigby  ^  Co.,  72  St. 
James's  St. ;  Purdey,  Audley  House,  South  Audley  St. ;  Grant,  67a 
St.  James's  St. ;  Jeffery  ^  Co.,  60  Queen  Victoria  St.,  E.  C,  and  13 
King  St.,  St.  James's;  ReiUy,  296  Oxford  St.;  WinchesUr  Repeating 
Arms  Co.,  1  Laurence  Pountney  Hill,  E.C.;  Colt's  Fire  Arms  Com- 
pany, 15a  Pall  Mall,  S.W. 

Hattbbs:  —  Lincoln,  Bennett,  ^  Co.y  40  Piccadilly;  Heath, 
105-109  Oxford  St.,  62a  Piccadilly,  and  47  Comhill;  Cater  ^  Co., 
56  Pall  Mall;  Christy  ^  Co.,  35  Gracechurch  St.,  City;  Woodrow, 
42  Comhill  and  46  Piccadilly;  Truefitt,  13  Old  Bond  St.  and  20 
Burlington  Arcade;  ScotU,  1  Old  Bond  St.;  Preedy,  23  Haymarket. 

Hosibbs  and  Shibtmakbbs  :  —  Hamilton  Shirt  Making  Society, 
41  Poland  St.,  W.;  PooU  ^  Lord,  322  Oxford  St. ;  Hope  Brothers, 
44  Ludgate  Hill,  E.  C,  281  High  Holbom,  86  Regent  St.,  129  Ken- 
sington High  St.,  etc.;  Capper,  Son,  ^  Co.,  29  Regent  St.  and 
67  New  Bond  St. ;  Harborows,  6  New  Bond  St.  and  16  St.  Ann  St., 
"Westminster ;  Lahmann  Agency,  246  High  Holborn. 

Laob:  —  Haywards,  11  Old  Bond  St. ;  Debenham  ^  Freebody, 
17-37  Wigmore  St. ;  SUinmann,  185  Piccadilly ;  Marshall  ^  Snelgrove, 
334-354  Oxford  St.;  Dickins  ^  Jones,  230-244  Regent  St.;  Irish 
Warehouse,  147  Regent  St. ;  Royal  Irish  Industries  Association,  23 
Motcomb  St.,  S.W. 

Ladibs'  TJndbbolothino  :  —  Mason,  352  Oxford  St. ;  Steinmann, 
186  PlccadUly;   Penberthy,   388-392  Oxford  St.;    Mrs,  Addley- 


60  14.    SHOPS. 

Bourne,  174  Sloane  St.;  Swears  ^  WelU  (children),  190-196  Oxford 
St.;  Edmondsj  Orr,  ^  Co.  (also  children's  outfitters),  3  Lower 
Seymour  St.  Also  at  most  Drapers  (p.  57), 

Lbatubb  Goods  (dressing-cases,  dispatch-boxes,  etc.):  — 
Fisher,  188  Strand;  John  Pound  ^  Co.,  67  Piccadilly,  211  Regent 
St.,  81-84  Leadenhall  St.,  and  177  Tottenham  Court  Road;  ThomhUl 
^  Co.,  144  New  Bond  St.    Comp.  Cutlery  and  Trunk  Makers. 

Map  Sbllbbs  (also  guidebooks,  etc.) :  — Bacon  ^  Co.,  127  Strand ; 
Philip  ^  Sons,  32  Fleet  St. ;  W.  ^  A.  K,  Johnston,  7  Paternoster 
Square,  E.  C. ;  Potter,  145  Minories  (charts).  —  Obdnancb  Suevby 
Maps,  E.  Stanford,  12-14  Long  Acre. 

MiLLiNBBS :  —  Michard,  2  Hanover  Square ;  Maison  NouvelU, 
240  Oxford  St ,  237  Regent  St.,  etc.;  Durrant,  116  New  Bond  St.; 
Mrs.  Kerr,  83  Duke  St.,  Grosvenor  Square;  Angrave,  102  Queen's 
Road,  Bayswater;  Mrs.  White,  63  Jermyn  St.;  Maison  de  Cram, 
41  Chester  Square,  S.W.  Also  in  the  millinery  departments  of  the 
large  drapers  (p.  57). 

Music  Sbllbbs :  —  Boosey  ^  Co.,  295  Regent  St. ;  Chappell  ^  Co., 
50  New  Bond  St. ;  Cramer  ^  Co.,  126  Oxford  St.,  W.,  and  46  Moor- 
gate  St.,  E.C.;  Novello  ^  Co.,  160  Wardour  St.,  W.;  Breitkopf 
^  Haertel,  54  Great  Marlborough  St. ;  Hammond  ^  Co.,  6  Kingly  St., 
Regent  St. ;  Metzler  ^  Co.,  40-43  Great  Marlborough  St.;  Augener, 
6  New  Burlington  St.,  W.,  199  Regent  St,W.,  and  22  Newgate  St., 
E.C. ;  Keith  Prowse,  ^  Co.,  48  Cheapside,  3  Grand  Hotel  Buildings, 
162  New  Bond  St.,  etc.;  Woolhouu,  174  Wardour  St.,  W. 

Opticians  :  —  Elliott  Brothers,  36  Leicester  Square;  Dallmeyer, 
25  Newman  St.,  W. ;  Negretti  ^  Zambra,  38  Holborn  Viaduct,  45 
Cornhill,  and  122  Regent  St. ;  Callaghan,  23a  New  Bond  St. ; 
DoUond  ^  Co.,  35  Ludgate  Hill,  62  Old  Broad  St.,  5  Northumber- 
land Avenue,  etc. ;  C.  P.  Ooerx,  4  Holborn  Circus;  Cox,  98  New- 
gate St. 

Pebfumebs  :  —  Atkinson,  24  Old  Bond  St. ;  Piesse  ^  Lubin, 
28  South  Molton  St.,  W. ;  Rimmel,  79  Strand,  119  Regent  St.,  and 
64  Cheapside ;  Breidenba^h,  48  Greek  St.,  Soho  (wholesale) ;  BayUy, 
94  St.  Martin's  Lane  (wholesale). 

Photogbaphebs  :  —  Mendelssohn,  14  Pembridge  Crescent,  Net- 
ting Hill  Gate,  W. ;  Hollyer,  9  Pembroke  Square,  Kensington,  W. 
(sitters  on  Monday  only,  pictures  on  other  days);  MayaU  ^^  Co. 
(Barraud),  126  Piccadilly,  W.;  Barraud  ^  Robertson,  120  Fulham 
Road,  S.  W. ;  Elliot  ^  Fry,  55  Baker  St.,  W.;  Ellis  ^  Walery,  51  Baker 
St. ,  W. ;  Fradelle  ^  Young,  283  Regent  St. ;  London  Stereoscopic 
Co.,  106  Regent  St  ,  W.,  and  54  Cheapside,  E.C;  Sawyer  ^  Dunn, 
153  Maida  Vale;  FaVL,  9  Baker  St.  (children). 

Photoobaph  Sbllbbs  :  —  Autotype  Fine  Art  Oallery,  74  New 
Oxford  St. ;  Mansell,  405  Oxford  St. ;  London  Stereoscopic  Company, 
54  Cheapside  and  108  Regent  St.;  Spoontr,  379  Strand;  Erdmann 
4'  Schanz,  116  Doici  Terrace,  Bedford  Hill,  Balham  (photographs 


14.  SHOPS.  61 

of  persons,  pictures,  or  places  sent  on  view;  catalogue  sent  on  ap- 
plication); Fkdtoerom  Co.^  61  St.  Paul's  Churchyard  j  Hanfitaengl, 
16  Pall  Mall  East;  Deighton,  4  Grand  Hotel  Buildings,  Trafalgar 
Square.  —  Photoobaphio  Matbbials:  Fallowfiddj  146  Charing 
Cross  Road;  Marion j  22  Soho  Square;  Houghtons  Limitedy  Watson 
^  Sont,  High  Holhorn  88  and  313;  Kodak  LimiUd,  115  Oxford  St., 
171  Regent  St.,  60  Cheapside,  etc. 

PiANOFOBTB  Manupactuebbs  :  —  Broodwood  ^  SonSf  Conduit 
St.;  CoUard^  Collard,  16  Grosvenor  St.;  Erardj  18  Great  Marl- 
borough St. ;  Bechttein,  Bluthner^  Brinsmead,  Ibaehj  32-4(1;  7-13, 
18-22,  and  30  Wigmore  St.,  W.;  Hopkinson,  84  New  Bond  St.; 
PUyelly  Wolff,  Lyon,  ^  Co.,  79  Baker  St. ;  Steinrray,  16  Lower 
Seymour  St.,  W. 

Pbbsebyes,  etc.  ('Italian  Warehouses') :  —  Fortnum  ^  Mason, 
181-183  Piccadilly;  Morel  Brothers,  Cdbhttt,  ^ Son,  210  Piccadilly; 
Jackson,  172  Piccadilly  (American  groceries  and  canned  goods); 
Cadbury,  Pratt,  ^  Ch,,  24  New  Bond  St. ;  Stemhridge  (Indian  con- 
diments), 18  Green  St.,  Leicester  Square;  Appenrodt  (German 
specialties),  8  New  Coventry  St.,  366  Strand,  259  Regent  St.,  etc. 

Pbintsellbbs,  see  Engravings. 

Shobmakbbs.  For  gentlemen :  —  Thierry,  70  Regent  St.  and 
48  Gresham  St. ;  Burgess  ^  Deroy,  205  Regent  St. ;  Waukenphast, 
125  Nev^Bond  St. ;  Dowie  ^  Marshall,  455  West  Strand;  Fuchs, 
54  Conduit  St. ;  Bowley  ^  Co.,  51  Jermyn  St.;  Peal,  487  Oxford 
St. ;  Medwin,  41  Sackville  St. ;  Hoby  ^^  Gullick,  24  Pall  Mall ;  Tuetek, 
15b  Clifford  St. ;  Francis,  44  Maddox  St. ;  Holden  Brothers  ('nature 
true'  hoots),  3  Harewood  Place,  Hanover  Square ;  Manfield  ^  Sons, 
376  Strand,  307  High  Holhorn,  228  Piccadilly,  67  Eastcheap,  etc.; 
Emerson  Shoe  Co.,  425  Strand;  American  Shoe  Co.,  169  Regent  St., 
373  Strand,  and  113  Westhoume  Grove.  —  For  ladies:  —  Hook, 
Knowles,  ^  Co.,  66  New  Bond  St.  (also  for  gentlemen);  Bird, 
3  Argyll  Place,  Regent  St. ;  Oundry  ^  Sons,  187  Regent  St. ; 
Thierry,  70  Regent  St.;  Yapp,  200  and  210  Sloane  St.;  Sorosis 
Shoe  Co.  (Amer.),  Regent  House,  Regent  St.,  81  Brompton  Road, 
and  19  Westbourne  Grove. 

Silk  Mbbcebs,  see  Drapers. 

Tailobs  :  —  Poole  ^  Co.,  37-39  Savile  Row,  Regent  St.  (intro- 
duction from  former  customer  required) ;  H.  Walker,  47  Albemarle 
St.  (ready-money  tailor,  moderate  charges) ;  E,  Oeorge,  87  Regent 
St.;  MiUs,  4  Sackville  St.;  Kerslake  ^  Dixon,  12  Hanover  St., 
Hanover  Square;  Radford,  Jones,  ^  Co.,  32  George  St.,  Hanover 
Square;  Blarney  ^  Co.,  21a  Jermyn  St.;  Henry  Keen,  2  South- 
ampton Row;  Tetley  ^  Butler,  21  Sackville  St.;  Bought  ^  Co.,  17 
Sackville  St. ;  Norton  ^  Sons,  44  Conduit  St. ;  Meyer  ^  Mortimer, 
36  Conduit  St.;  Brown,  Son,  ^  Long,  11  Princes  St.,  Hanover 
Square ;  Stohwasser  ^  Winter,  39  Conduit  St. ;  Stulz,  Binnie,  ^  Co., 
10  Clifford  St.;  Phillips  ^^  Sons,  58  Regent  St.;   DaU  ^  Co.,  265 


62  14.  SHOPS. 

Regent  St.,  236  Oxford  St.,  etc;  Hoare  ^  Sons,  261  HighHolborn  j 
J.  W.  Dori,  30  Duke  St.,  St.  James's;  West  End  Clothiers  Co. 
(ready  money),  71  Strand,  66  Regent  St.,  37  Ludgate  Hill,  and 
other  addresses;  Piggott^  117  Gheapside  and  1-3  Milk  Street  Baild- 
Ings  (also  general  outfitter);  Samuel  Brothers,  65  Ludgate  Hill, 
E.G.  (boys*  outfitters,  etc.).  —  Glbrioal  Tailors:  Pratt,  22-24 
Tavistock  St.,  Govent  Garden;  Seary,  13  New  Oxford  St. ;  Vanheems 
^  Wheeler,  47  Berners  St.,  Oxford  St.  —  Ladies'  Tailobb  :  Red  fern, 
26 Conduit  St ;  Goodman  ^  Davis,  18  Old  Cavendish  St.,  Cavendish 
Squar^,  Fishtr,  NicoU,  Regent  St.,  Nos.  215-219  and  114-120; 
PhiUips  ^  Sons^  58  Regent  St ;  Scott  Adie  (Scotch  goods),  115  Regent 
St.;  Boyle  ^  Qalvin,  288  Regent  St.;  PUUips,  185  Sloane  St.; 
Smits,  7  Hanover  St. ;  Hart,  171  Queen's  Road,  Bayswater;  Eawles, 
6  Paddington  St.  —  Ready-made  clothes  may  be  obtained  very 
cheaply  in  numerous  large  shops  (prices  usually  affixed). 

Tobacconists  :  —  Carreras,  7Wardour  St.  (sellers  of  the  Craven 
mixture,  said  to  be  the  ^Arcadia'  of  *My  Lady  Nicotine');  Fribourp 
^  Treyer,  34  Haymarket  and  3  Leadenhall  St. ;  Benson  ^  Hedges, 
13  Old  Bond  St ;  Wolff,  Phillips,  ^  Co.,  119  Jermyn  St,  W.;  and 
many  others. 

Toys:  — •  HamUy,  202  Regent  St,  35  New  Oxford  St,  512 
Oxford  St,  and  86  High  Holborn;  Oamage,  118-128  Holborn;  Mrs. 
Peck  (dolls),  131  Regent  St.;  MorreU,  368  Oxford  St  and  50 
Burlington  Arcade,  Piccadilly ;  Parkins  ^  Ootto,  54-62  Oxford  St ; 
Jaques,  102  Hatton  Garden,  E.G. 

Tbunk  Makers:  —  Allen,  37  Strand;  Drew  ^  Sons,  33-37 
Piccadilly  Circus, W. ;  Drew  ^  Co.,  156  Leadenhall  St.,  E.G. ;  Pound, 
67  Piccadilly,  211  Regent  St.,  and  177  Tottenham  Court  Road; 
Southgate,  74  Watling  St  —  Strangers  should  be  on  their  guard 
against  the  temptation  to  purchase  trunks  and  portmanteaus  in 
inferior  leather  marked  *second  hand'  —  a  common  form  of  fraud 
in  houses  of  a  lower  class. 

Upholsterers,  see  Furniture. 

Watchmakers  :  —  Bennett,  65  Gheapside ;  Benson ,  25  Old 
Bond  St.  and  62  and  64  Ludgate  Hill;  E,  Dent  ^  Co.,  61  Strand; 
M.  F.  Dent  ^  Co,,  34  Cockspur  St;  Chas,  Frodsham  ^  Co.,  115  New 
Bond  St. ;  Bedford  (Waltham  Watches),  105  Regent  St. 

Waterproof  Goods  :  —  Andersons,  58  Charing  Cross  and  35 
St.  Paul's  Churchyard ;  Cording  ^  Co,,  19  Piccadilly ;  Qeorge  Cording, 
125  Regent  St.;  Walkley,  5  Strand;  Cow,  46  Gheapside. 

Wine  Merchants.  —  There  are  about  2500  wine  merchants  in 
London,  most  of  whom  can  supply  fairly  good  wine  at  reasonable 
prices.  Visitors  who  occupy  private  apartments  should  procure  their 
wine  from  a  dealer.  The  wines  at  hotels  are  generally  dear  and  in- 
different. The  following  are  good  houses:  —  Cockhum  ^  Co, 
(established  1796;  specialty,  Scotch  whiskey),  8  Lime  St.,  City, 
Jusierini  S'  Brooks,  2  Pall  Mall  (150  years  on  same  spot;  noted  for 


14.  MARKETS.  63 

very  old  French  brandy) ;  Hedge$  ^  Butltr,  155  Regent  St ;  Qilhey, 
Pa&theon,  173  Oxford  St.,  besides  other  offices  (with  an  extensive 
trade  in  low-priced  wines) ;  Fortnum  ^  Maaonj  181-183  Piccadilly ; 
CarhoneU  ^  Co.,  59  St.  James's  St. ;  Q,  Tanqutray  ^  Co.,  5  Pall  Mall 
East;  BoiU  Woodd  ^  Som,  34  New  Bond  St.;  BaUsh,  MansfiM, 
^  Co.,  47  Pall  Mall;  Danueq,  6  Great  Tower  St.,  E.G.  —  The 
Victoria  Wine  Co.  (head  office,  6  Osbom  St.,  E.,  with  about  90 
branch-offices)  does  a  large  business  in  moderate-priced  wines,  from 
single  bottles  upwards.  —  Most  of  the  best-known  continental  wine- 
firms  have  agencies  in  London,  the  addresses  of  which  may  be  found 
in  the  Post  Office  Directory.  Claret  and  other  wines  may  be  obtained 
also  from  most  of  the  grocers. 

Bazaars.  These  emporiums  afford  pleasant  covered  walks 
between  rows  of  shops  abundantly  stocked  with  all  kinds  of  attract- 
ive and  useful  articles.  The  most  important  are  the  Boyal  Arcade, 
28  Old  Bond  St. ;  Opera  Colonnade,  Haymarket;  Burlington  Arcade, 
Piccadilly;  Ludgaie  or  Imperial  Arcade,  Ludgate  Circus;  Baker 
Street  Bazaar,  58  Baker  Street. 

Karkets.  The  immense  market  traffic  of  London  is  among  the 
most  impressive  sights  of  the  Metropolis ,  and  one  with  which  no 
stranger  should  fail  to  make  himself  acquainted.  The  chief  mar- 
kets are  held  at  early  hours  of  the  morning,  when  they  are  visited  by 
vast  crowds  hastening  to  supply  their  commissariat  for  the  day. 

The  chief  Vegttahle,  Fruit,  and  Flower  Market  is  Covent  Garden 
(p.  210).  The  best  time  to  visit  this  market  is  about  sunrise. 

Billingsgate  (p.  124),  the  great  fish-market,  as  interesting  in  its 
way  as  Covent  Garden,  though  pervaded  by  far  less  pleasant  odours, 
is  situated  in  Lower  Thames  St.,  City,  near  London  Bridge.  The 
market  commences  daily  at  5  a.  m. 

The  Central  London  Markets  (see  p.  100),  occupying  together 
about  80  acres  at  Smiihfield  (PI.  R,  36),  to  the  N.  of  Newgate  St., 
City,  are  the  chief  centres  of  the  food-supply  of  London. 

The  Metropolitan  Cattle  Market  (PI.  B,  26,  29) ,  Copenhagen 
Fields,  between  Islington  and  Camden  Town,  is  one  of  the  largest  in 
the  world,  covering  30  acres  of  ground  and  accommodating  8-10,000 
cattle,  36,000  sheep,  and  1000  pigs.  The  principal  markets  are  held 
on  Mondays  and  Thursdays,  but  on  other  days  the  traffic  is  also 
very  considerable.  The  great  day  is  the  Monday  of  the  week  be- 
fore Christmas.  *Pedlars'  Market'  on  Friday  afternoon,  see  p.  274. 
—  At  Deptford  (p.  390)  is  a  great  Foreign  Cattle  Market,  for  cattle 
imported  from  the  Continent  and  elsewhere. 

Among  the  other  important  markets  of  London  are  Leadenhall 
Market  (p.  119),  Leadenhall  St.,  on  a  site  where  poultry  and  game 
have  been  sold  for  at  least  400  years ;  the  Borough  Market,  beside 
St.  Saviour's  Church  (p.  375),  one  of  the  largest  wholesale  fruit  and 
vegetable  markets;  Spitalfields  Market  (PI.  R,  48),  Commercial  St., 


64  14.  THE  CO-OPERATIVE  SYSTEM. 

E.,  for  yegetables,  etc.,  the  chief  emporium  for  East  London;  the 
Shadwell  Market  (PI.  R,  54),  to  the  E.  of  London  Docks,  for  flsh;  and 
Portland  Market  (PI.  R,  12),  Salisbury  St.,  Marylehone.  Columbia 
Market  (Pi.  B,  48),  Bethnal  Green,  was  erected  by  the  munificence 
of  the  Baroness  Burdett  Goutts,  at  a  cost  of  200,00()Z.,  for  supplying 
meat,  flsh,  and  yegetables  to  one  of  the  poorest  quarters  of  London. 

The  largest  Horse  Market  is  TatteraalVs  (PI.  R,  18),  Enightsbrldge 
Green,  where  auction-sales  take  place  eyery  Monday  at  11.30  a.m., 
and  in  spring  on  Thursdays  also.  The  horses  are  on  view  on  Sat. 
and  Sun.  (11-6).  Tattersall's  is  the  centre  of  all  business  relating 
to  horse-racing  and  betting  throughout  the  country,  —  the  English- 
man's substitute  for  the  Continental  lotteries.  Aldridge'a,  St.  Mar- 
tin's Lane,  is  another  important  horse-mart. 

The  Co-operative  System.  The  object  of  this  system  may  be 
described  as  the  furnishing  of  members  of  a  trading  association, 
formed  for  the  purpose,  with  genuine  and  moderately-priced  goods 
on  the  principle  of  ready-money  payments,  the  cheapness  being 
secured  by  economy  of  management  and  by  contentment  with  small 
profits.  There  are  now  about  thirty  *co-operatiye  stores' In  London, 
carrying  on  an  immense  trade.  The  chief  companies  are  the  Army 
and  Navy  Co-operative  Society j  105  Victoria  St.,  Westminster,  the 
Civil  Service  Supply  Association^  the  Junior  Army  and  Navy  Stores^ 
15  Regent  St.  and  39  King  St.,  Coyent  Garden,  and  the  Civil  Service 
Co-operative  Society^  28  Haymarket. 

The  Civil  Service  Supply  Association  Limited  consists  of  shareholders, 
of  members  belonging  to  the  Civil  Service,  and  of  outsiders  (who,  how- 
ever, must  be  friends  of  members  or  shareholders),  who  pay  a  subscnption 
of  2s.  ^.  per  annum.  The  association  now  employs  more  than  1400  per- 
sons, who  receive  salaries  amounting  in  all  to  about  117,000/.  annually. 
The  cost  of  the  string,  paper,  and  straw  used  in  packing  goods  for  customers 
amounts  to  10,000/.  a  year,  and  more  than  90,000/.  is  annually  sjpent  for 
carriage.  The  total  value  of  the  sales  in  1907  amounted  to  l,6^,4g8/.,  the 
net  profit  being  about  2V2  per  cent.  The  articles  sold  comprise  groceries, 
wines,  spirits,  provisions,  tobacco,  clothing,  books,  stationery,  fancy  goods, 
drugs,  china  and  glass,  ironmongery,  and  watches.  The  chief  premises 
of  the  association  are  in  Queen  Victoria  Street,  while  it  has  others  in 
Bedford  Street,  in  Chandos  Street,  Strand,  and  in  Maclise  Road,  West 
Kensington.  —  The  sales  of  the  Army  and  Navy  Stores  reach  a  still  higher 
total,  amounting  to  about  3,326,000/.  per  annum. 

Strangers  or  visitors  to  London  are,  of  course,  unable  to  make  purchases 
at  a  co-operative  store  except  through  a  member. 

Co-operative  Working  Societies.  Another  application  of  the 
co-operative  system  is  seen  in  the  various  associations  established 
on  the  principle  of  the  Co-Partnership  of  the  Workers, 

Among  societies  of  this  kind  the  following  may  be  mentioned:  Book- 
hindwi"  Co-operative  Society^  17  Bury  St..  Bloomsbury •,  Hamilton  SMrt- 
Making  Society^  41  Poland  St.,W.;  Women's  Printing  Society,  66Whitcomb 
St.,W.C.;   Co-operative  Printing  Society,  Tudor  St.,  New  Bridge  St.,  E.C. 


65 


15.  Libraries,  Beading  Booms,  and  Newspapers. 

Public  Libraries.  London  and  its  sabnrbs  now  contain  up- 
wards of  fifty  free  public  libraries,  where  yisitors  may  freely  enter 
and  consult  the  books  and  magazines.  They  are  open  from  8,  9,  or 
10  a.m.  to  9, 10,  or  11  p.m.,  and  many  of  them  are  also  open  on  Sun. 
evening.  All  have  free  news-rooms,  reading-rooms,  and  reference- 
libraries  'y  but  books  are,  as  a  rule,  lent  out  only  to  residents  of  the 
district  on  a  rate-payer's  recommendation. 

Some  sort  of  an  introduction  is  generally  necessary  for  those 
who  wish  to  use  the  books  in  the  following  great  libraries,  at  which, 
however,  no  fees  are  charged. 

British  Museum  Library y  see  p.  320;  Sion  Colltgt  Library  (p.  127),  on 
the  Thames  Embankment,  110,000  vols.,  one  of  the  most  valuable  theo- 
logical libraries  in  London,  containing  portraits  of  Charles  I.,  Charles  II., 
and  Laud  and  other  bishops ;  Dr.  William*'  Library ^  University  Hal],  Gordon 
Square,  with  about  60,000  vols.,  mainly  theological  and  historical,  includ- 
ing many  Puritan  and  Commonwealth  pamphlets,  and  portraits  of  Baxter, 
Watts,  Priestley,  and  other  divines;  Lambtth  Palaet  Library^  p.  380;  Allan 
Library^  with  a  fine  collection  of  Bibles  and  theological  works,  to  be  trans- 
ferred to  the  new  Wesleyan  Church  House  (p.  249),  and  at  present  in- 
accessible ;  Ouildhall  Library,  p.  109 ;  Patent  Office  Library^  25  Southampton 
Buildings,  Chancery  Lane,  especially  rich  in  scientific  journals  and  trans- 
actions of  learned  societies  (open  free,  10-1(9. 

CirculatixLg  Libraries.  London  Library,  14  St.  James's  Square, 
with  220,000  vols,  (annual  subs.  Si,,  introduction  by  a  member 
necessary);  London  Institution  Library,  Finsbury  Circus,  with 
100,000  vols,  (annual  subs.  1L  12«.  6d.);  Mudie'a  Select  Library 
( Limited),  SO'^^  New  Oxford  St.,  a  gigantic  establishment  possess- 
ing hundreds  of  thousands  of  volumes  (minimum  quarterly  sub- 
scription, 78.);  branches  at  241  Brompton  Road  and  48  Queen 
Victoria  St.,  E.G.;  W,  H,  Smith  ^  Son,  186  Strand,  branch  at 
2  Arundel  St.,W.C. ;  Rolandi,  20Bemers  St.,  Oxford  St.,  for  foreign 
books  (300,000  vols. ;  monthly  subs.  4a.  Qd. ,  yearly  21. 2«.) ;  Cawthom 
Sf  Hatt,  24  Cockspur  St.;  Ashton  ^  MitcheU,  33  Old  Bond  St,  and 
16  Gloucester  Road,  S.W.  (subs,  from  15a.  per  quarter);  Lewie's 
Medical  §r  Scientific  Library,  136  Gower  Street  (subs,  from  il,  is. 
per  annum ;  catalogue  2a.,  to  non-subscribers  5a.).  —  The  Booklovers' 
Library  (17  Hanover  St.,  Hanover  Square)  maintains  deposits  of  its 
books  at  numerous  booksellers^  all  over  London,  at  any  one  of  which 
subscribers  may  exchange  volumes ;  annual  fee  bs. ,  wiih  charge  of 
2(2.  each  time  a  book  is  exchanged. 

Beading  Booms.  Besides  those  at  the  free  libraries  (see  above) 
the  following  reading-rooms,  most  of  which  are  supplied  with 
English  and  foreign  newspapers,  may  be  mentioned :  Colonial  In- 
stitute, Northumberland  Avenue  (subs.  1-2  guineas  per  annum ; 
comp.  p.  76);  Ouildhall  Free  Library;  Central  News  Agency,  5  New 
Bridge  St. ,  Ludgate  Circus  (adm.  2d.) ;  Commissioners  of  Patents 
Librofy,    25  Southampton  Buildings,    Chancery  Lane;    Street's 

Babdkkbb's  London.    15th  Edit.  5 


66  15.  NEWSPAPERS. 

Colonial  ^  General  Newspaper  Offices,  30  Goinhill,  164  Piccadilly, 
and  5  Serle  St.,  Llncoln*g  Inn ;  Chicago  Daily  News,  Trafalgar  Build- 
ings, Trafalgar  Sqnare. 

newspapers.  Al>ont  450  newspapers  are  published  in  London 
and  its  environs.  Among  the  principal  morning  papers  are  the  Times 
(3d.),  in  political  opinion  nominally  Independent  of  party  (printing- 
office,  see  p.  128) ;  then  the  Daily  News  {}l%d, ;  a  leading  Liberal 
journal),  Daily  Telegraph  (Id.),  Standard  [id,;  a  strong  Oonserra- 
tive  organ).  Morning  Post  (Id./  organ  of  the  court  and  aristocracy), 
Morning  Advertiser  (Id.;  the  organ  of  the  licensed  Yictuallersj, 
Daily  Chronicle  {}l^,;  Radical),  linandal  News  (id.),  Financial 
Times  (Id.),  Morning  Leader  (}/2d.;  Radical),  and  Daily  Express 
(72d.)-  ^e  ^<^i^y  Graphic  (Id.)  is  illustrated.  The  leading  evening 
papers  include  the  Westminster  Oaxette  (Id.),  the  Pall  Mall  Oatette 
(Id.),  the  Evening  Standard  and  St  Jameses  Gazette  (Id.),  Qlohe 
(Id.;  the  oldest  evening  paper,  dating  from  1803),  Star  (V2<^0)  ^^^ 
Evening  News  (Va^O*  Most  of  these  are  sold  at  the  principal  railway- 
stations,  at  newsagents'  shops,  and  in  the  streets  by  newsboys.  The 
oldest  paper  in  the  country  is  the  London  Oaxette,  the  organ  of  the 
Government,  established  in  1642  and  published  twice  weekly. 
The  City  Press  (bi-weekly ;  2d.)  contains  city  and  antiquarian  no- 
tices; London  (weekly  j  Id.)  and  the iondotiilfyus (weekly;  Id.)  also 
deal  with  local  government  topics.  Among  the  favourite  weekly 
journals  are  the  comic  paper  Punch  (3d.) ;  the  illustrated  papers 
(6d.  each) ,  Sphere,  Graphic ,  Black  and  White,  Illustrated  London 
News,  Sporting  and  Dramatic  News,  Sketch,  Bystander,  Tatler,  Lady's 
Pictorial,  Lady,  Gentlewoman,  and  Queen  (for  ladies) ;  and  the  supe- 
rior literary  journals  and  reviews.  Athenaeum,  Academy  (3d.  each), 
Spectator,  Nation,  Saturday  Review,  and  Ouilook  (6d.  each).  The 
Weekly  Dispatch,  the  Observer,  Lloyd's  News  (circulation  of  over 
1,000,000),  the  People,  Reynolds',  the  Sunday  Times,  and  the 
Referee  (a  sporting  and  theatrical  organ)  are  Sunday  papers.  The 
Guardian  (weekly ;  3d.)  is  the  chief  organ  of  the  Church  of  England, 
and  the  Toditft  (weekly ;  5d.)  that  of  the  Roman  Catholics.  Truth,  The 
World,  and  Vanity  Fair  (6d.  each)  are  mainly  *  society'  papers. 

The  Field  (weekly;  6d.)  is  the  principal  journal  of  field-sports  and 
other  subjects  interesting  to  the  'country  gentleman^;  and  next  is  Land 
and  Water,  also  weekly  (6tf.)*  The  Sporttman  (daily;  id.).  Sporting  U/e 
(daily;  Id.),  and  the  Bporting  Timet  (weekly;  2d.)  are  the  chief  organs  of 
the  racing  public,  and  the  JBra  (weekly;  6d.)  of  the  theatrical  world. 

Science  and  Art  Journals :  Journal  of  the  Society  of  Art*  (fid.).  Nature 
(Sd.),  Knowledge^  The  Electrician  (weekly;  6d.),  C?temieal  Newt  (weekly; 
id.).  Inventors'  Review  (weekly ;  8d.).  The  Lancet  (weekly ;  Id.)  and  the  Britiah 
Medical  Journal  (6d.)  are  the  leading  medical  papers.  —  Journals  and 
Transactions  of  the  Geological,  Astronomical,  and  other  learned  societies. 

Commercial  and  Professional  Journals  (weekly):  The  EconomUt  {M.), 
the  leading  commercial  and  financial  authority ;  Agricultural  Gazette  (2d.)  -, 
Board  of  Trade  Journal  (monthly;  8d.);  Farmer  (id.);  Mark  Lane  Express 
(3d.),  mainly  relied  upon  for  market-prices;  Engineer,  Engineering  (each 
6d.),  for  mechanics,  surveyors,  and  contractors ;  Buildtr  (4d.),  and  Builders'' 


16.  EMBASSIES.  67 

Journal  ild.)^  devoted  to  bailding,  designs,  sanitation,  and  domestic  com- 
fort; Architect  (4<l.);  Collierp  Guardian  (Sd.);  fining  Journal  (fid.)\  Gar- 
doners'  Chronicle  (Sd.)-,  BulUanist  rM.)',  Railwap  Timei  (6<f.);  Monop  karket 
Review  (64.) ',  Journal  of  Education  (6(1.),  Bdueattonta  Time*  (SdX  and  The  School 
World  (6<l.),  for  teachers. 

The  Canadian  GagetU  (8d.)  is  a  London  weekl7  dealing  with  Canadian 
matters.  Several  of  the  leading  American  and  Colonial  papers  have  re- 
presentatives and  advertising  offtoes  in  London.  The  address  of  the 
AuodaUd  Prees  is  34  Old  Jewrj,  B.  C. 

French  newspapers  are  sold  at  the  Libreririe  du  Ftgaroy  9  New  Coventry 
St.,  at  the  Caf^  Honico,  and  at  various  shops  in  Soho. 

16.  Embassies  and  Consulates.   Colonial  Represent- 
atives. Bankers. 

Embassies, 

America,  United  States  of.  Embassy,  l^SVictOTla  St.,  S.W.  (office- 
hours  11-B);  ambassador,  Hon,  Whitelaw  Reid,  Gonsnlate,  12 
St  Helen's  Place,  Bishopsgate,  E.G.;  consul-general,  Robert 
J,  Wynne,  Esq,;  vice-consnl-general,  RiehardWestaeott,  Esq. 

Austria-Hungary,  Embassy,  18  Belgrave  Square,  S.W.  General 
Consulate,  22  Laurence  Pountney  Lane,  E.G. 

Belgium,  Legation,  15  West  Halkin  St.,  Belgraye  Square,  S.W. 
General  Gonsnlate,  29  Great  St.  Helen's,  E.G. 

Bratil,  Legation,  152  Gomwall  Gardens,  S.W.  Gonsnlate,  Coventry 
House,  South  Place,  Finsbury,  E.G. 

C^tfMt.    Legation,  49  Portland  Place,  W. 

Denmark,  Legation,  24  Pont  St.,  S.W.  General  Consulate,  8 
Byward  St.,  Great  Tower  Street,  E.G. 

France.  Embassy,  Albert  Gate  House,  Hyde  Park.  General  Con- 
sulate, 4  Christopher  St.,  Finsbury,  E.G. 

Germany .  Embassy,  9  Carlton  House  Terrace,  S.W.  General  Con- 
sulate, 49  Finsbury  Square,  E.G. 

Oreeee,  Legation,  1  Stanhope  Gardens,  S.W.  General  Consulate, 
40  Old  Broad  St.,  E.G. 

Italy,  Embassy,  20  Grosyenor  Square,  W.  General  Consulate, 
44  Finsbury  Square,  E.G. 

Japan,  Embassy,  4  Grosvenor  Gardens,  S.W.  General  Consulate, 
1  Broad  Street  Place,  E.G.,  and  72  Kensington  Park  Road,  W. 

Netherlands,  Legation,  8  Grosyenor  Gardens,  S.W.  General  Con- 
sulate, 12  Blomfield  St.,  E.G. 

Norway,  Legation,  36  Victoria  St,  S.W.  General  Consulate,  22 
Great  St  Helen's,  E.G. 

Persia,  Legation,  Gomwall  House,  Cornwall  Gardens,  S.W.  General 
Consulate,  122  Victoria  St.,  S.W. 

Portugal,  Legation,  12  Gloucester  Place,  Portman  Square,  W. 
General  Consulate,  6  South  St.,  Finsbury,  E.G. 

Russia.  Embassy,  Chesham  House,  Belgrave  Square,  S.W.  General 
Consulate,  17  Great  Winchester  St.,  E.G. 

5» 


68  16.   BANKERS. 

Spain.    Embassy,  1  Grosvenor  Gardens,  S.W.    General  Consulate, 

40  Trinity  Square,  E.G. 
Sweden,   Legation,  73  Portland  Place,  W.    General  Consulate,  10 

Lloyd's  Ayenue,  E.G. 
Switzerland,   Legation  and  Consulate,  38  Beaucbamp  Place,  S.W. 
Turkey,  Embaasy,  69  Portland  Place,  W.    General  Consulate,  140 

Leadenhall  Street  Place,  E.G. 

Representatives  of  British  CoUmUs. 
AustraUay  Commonwealth  of,   BepresentatWe,  Capt,  R,  Muirhead 

Collinsy  72  Victoria  Street,  S.W. 
Canada,  Dominion  of.   High  Commissioner,  Lord  Strathcona  and 

Mountroyal,  17  Victoria  Street,  S.W. 
Cape  Color^,    Agent  General,  Sir  Thomas  E.  Fuller^  100  Victoria 

Street,  S.W. 
Natal,  Agent  General,  Sir  William  Arbuckle,  26  Victoria  Street,  S.W. 
New  South  Wales,   Agent  General,  Hon.  T.  A,  Coghlan,  123  Cannon 

Street,  E.G. 
New  Zealand,  High  Commissioner,  Hon,  W,  P,  Reeves,  13  Victoria 

Street,  S.W. 
Queensland,  Agent  General,  Sir  Horace  Tomer,  1  Victoria  Street,  S.W. 
South  Australia.  Agent  General,  Hon.  J,  0,  Jenkins,  28  Bisbopsgate 

Street,  E.  C. 
Tasmania,  Agent  General,  Hon.  Alfred  Dohson,  6  Victoria  Street,  S.W. 
Transvaal,     Agent   General,    Sir  Richard  Solomon,   72  Victoria 

Street,  S.W. 
Victoria,  Agent  General,  Hon.  J,  W.  Tuverner,  142  Victoria  Street,S.W. 
West  Australia.    Agent  General,  Hon,  C.  H.  Rason,   15  Victoria 

Street,  S.W. 
Crown  Colonies.  Agents,  SirE.  E.  Blake,  Major  M.  A.  Cameron,  and 

W.  H,  Mercer,  Esq.,  4  Wbiteball  Gardens,  S.W. 

Bankers, 

Pkivatb  Banks:  —  Messrs.  Barclay  S'  Co,,  54  Lombard  St.  and 
1  Pall  Mall  East ;  Child  ^  Co.,  1  Fleet  St. ;  Coutts  f  Co.,  440  Strand ; 
Drummond,  49  Cbaring  Cross;  Olyn,  Mills,  Currie,  ^  Co,,  67  Lom- 
bard St. ;  Hoare,  37  Fleet  St. ;  Roharts,  Lubbock,  ^  Co.,  15  Lom- 
bard St. ;  Samuel  Montagu  ^  Co.,  60  Old  Broad  St.,  E.G. 

Joint  Stock  Banks  :  —  Capital  ^  Counties  Bank,  39  Thread- 
needle  St. ;  London  and  County,  21  Lombard  St. ;  London  Joint 
Stock,  5  Prince's  St.,  Mansion  House,  E.  C. ;  London  and  ProvineicU, 
3  Bank  Buildings,  Lotbbury;  London  and  South  Western,  170  Fen- 
cburcb  St. ;  London  and  Westminster,  41  Lotbbury ;  London,  City, 
^'  Midland,  5  Threadneedle  St.;  National  Provincial,  112  Bishops- 
gate  St.  Within ;  Union  of  London  ^  Smiths,  2  Prince's  St.,  Mansion 
House,  E.G. ;  Lloyds,  72  Lombard  St.  and  222  Strand ;  Parr's  Bank, 


17.  DIVINE  SERVICE.  0)3 

52  Threadneedle  St.  and  1  Cavendish  Sc^nare,  etc. ;  William$  Dea" 
con's,  20  Birchin  Lane,  etc. 

All  the  banking  companies  have  branch-offices  in  different  paitt 
of  London  and  suburbs,  some  as  many  as  fifty  to  a  hundred. 

Ambsioan  Banks  :  —  Brown,  Shipley,  §r  Co,,  Founders'  Court, 
Lothbury,  E.  C,  and  123  Pall  Mkll,  S.W.;  J.  S.  Morgan  ^  Co,,  22 
Old  Broad  St.,  E.  C. ;  Knauth,  Nachod,  ^  Kiihtu,  at  Parr's  Bank  (see 
p.  68);  London,  Paris,  ^  American  Bank,  40  Threadneedle  St.,  E.C. ; 
Bank  of  British  North  America,  5  Gracechurch  St.;  American  Express 
Co.,  84  Queen  St.,  Cheapslde,  and  6  Haymarket,  S.W» 

MoNBT  Chanoe&s.  Cook's  Tourist  Offices,  Ludgate  Circus, 
38  Piccadilly,  Forecourt,  Charing  Cross  Station,  13  Cockspur  St,  82 
Oxford  St.,  21  High  St.,  Kensington,  122  HighHolborn,  378  Strand, 
81  Cheapside,  99  Gracechurch  St.,  and  117  High  St.,  Whitechapel; 
Davison,  148  Strand;  WhiteUy,  31-61  Westboume  Groye ;  Smart, 
72  Westbourne  Grove;  American  Express  Co.  (see  above). 


17.  Divine  Service. 

To  enable  visitors  belonging  to  different  religious  denominations 
to  attend  their  respective  places  of  worship,  a  list  is  here  given 
of  the  principal  churches  in  London.  The  denominations  are  ar- 
ranged in  alphabetical  order.  The  chief  edifices  of  the  Church  of 
England  are  noticed  throughout  the  Handbook. 

There  are  about  700  churchet  of  the  Ghureli  of  England  in  London  or 
its  Immediate  vicinity,  of  which  about  70  are  pariah-churches  in  the  City, 
50  parish-churches  in  the  Ketropolitan  district  beyond,  and  550  ecclesi- 
astical parish  or  district  churches  or  chapels,  some  connected  with  asyl- 
ums, missions,  etc.  Of  the  Koneonformist  churches,  which  amount  to 
about  800  in  all,  240  are  Independent,  130  Baptist,  150  Wesleyan,  and  50 
Roman  Catholic.  —  The  hours  named  after  each  church  are  those  of 
divine  service  on  Sundays^  when  no  hour  is  specified  it  is  understood 
that  the  hours  of  the  regular  Sunday  services  are  11  a.m.  and  6.30  p.m. 
Many  of  the  Saturday  morning  and  evening  papers  give  a  list  of  the 
principal  preachers  on  Sunday. 

Baptist  Chapels:  — Metropolitan  Tabernacle,  Newington  Butts, 
close  to  the  Elephant  and  Castle  (p.  378),  the  church  of  the  late 
Rev.  C.  H.  Spurgeon;  services  at  11  and  6.30.  —  Westboume  Park 
Chapel  (Dr.  Clifford)}  services  at  11  and  7.  —  Bloom^bury  Chapel, 
Shaftesbury  Avenue ;  services  at  11  and  7.  —  Regents  Park  Chapel, 
Park  Square  Esst,  Regent's  Park;  seryices  at  11  and  7. 

Catholic  Apostolic  Chubchbs:  —  Gordon  Square,  Euston 
Road.  —  Mare  Street,  Hackney.  —  Malda  Hill  West,  Paddingtou. 
Services  at  these,  at  6  and  10  a.m.,  2  and  6  p.m.  —  College  Street, 
Chelsea;  services  at  6,  10,  and  5.  —  Duncan  Street,  Islington, 
services  at  2  and  5.  —  Gordon  House  Road,  N.W.;  services  at  6, 
10,  5,  and  5.30. 

CoNGBBGATioNALisTs  or  INDEPENDENTS :  —  City  Temple,  Hol- 
bom  Viaduct  (Bev.  R.  J.  Campbell);  services  at  11  and  7  (lecture 


70  17.   DIVINE  SERVIOE. 

on  TharB.  at  noon).  —  Union  Chapel,  Islington.  —  Westminster 
Chapel,  James  St.,  Westminster  (Dr,  Morgan).  —  King's  Weigh 
House  Chapel,  Duke  St.,  Grosvenor  Square;  11  and  7.  —  Kensington 
Chapel,  Phillimore  Terrace,  Allen  St.,  Kensington.  —  Christ  Church, 
Westminster  Bridge  Road ;  the  tower  and  spire  of  this  church  were 
built  by  Americans  in  London  as  a  memorial  of  Abraham  Lincoln.  — 
Whitefield's  Tabernacle,  Tottenham  Court  Road  (Rev.  C.  8.  Home) ; 
11  and  7.  —  Lyndhurst  Road,  Hampstead  (Dr,  Horton);  11  and  7.  — 
The  Pilgrim  Fathers  Memorial  Church,  New  Kent  Road  (11  and  7), 
dating  from  1616,  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  congregational  church  in 
the  empire. 

Fbiends  or  Quakers:  —  Meeting-houses  at  52  St.  Martin's 
Lane,  Trafalgar  Square  (service  at  11),  and  Devonshire  House,  12 
Bishopsgate  Street  Without  (services  at  11  and  7).  There  are  in 
all  about  a  dozen  meeting-houses  in  the  London  District. 

Jews  :  —  Great  Synagogue,  Duke  St.,  Aldgate.  —  Synagogue 
(Reform),  34  Upper  Berkeley  St. ,  Edgware  Road.  —  Central  Syna- 
gogue, Great  Portland  Street.  —  West  London  Bayswater  Synagogue, 
Chichester  Place,  Harrow  Road.  —  New  West  End  Synagogue, 
St.  Petersburg  Place,  Bayswater  Road.  —  New  Synagogue,  Chreat 
St.  Helen's,  Leadenhall  Street.  —  Spanish  ^  Portuguese  Synagogues, 
Bevis  Marks,  E.  C,  and  Lauderdale  Road,  Maida  Yale.  —  Service 
begins  at  sunset  on  Fridays.  The  office  of  the  Chief  Rabbi  is  at 
22  Finsbury  Square,  E.  C. 

Methodists,  a.  Wesleyan  Methodists :  —  Wesle^s  Chapel,  47 
City  Road;  Kingsway  Chapel,  Great  Queen  St.;  Finsbury  Park  Chapel, 
Wilberforce  Road;  Hindt  Street  Chapel,  Manchester  Square;  Mostyn 
Road  Oiapel,  Brixton  Road;  Peckham  Chapel,  Queen's  Road,  Peck- 
ham.  —  b.  Primitive  Methodists:  —  Swrrey  Chapel,  Blackfriars 
Road,  S.E.;  Marylebone,  Seymour  Place;  Camden  Town,  King  St., 
N.W.;  Defoe  Chapel,  High  St.,  Tooting.  ■—  c.  United  Methodist 
Church :  —  Brunswick  Chapel,  156  Great  Dover  St.,  Southwark ; 
Queen's  Road  Chapel,  Queen's  Road,  Bayswater;  Victoria,  Vauxhall 
Bridge  Road;  etc. 

New  Jerusalem  or  Swbdenborgian  Churches:  —  Palace 
Gardens  Terrace,  Kensington.  —  Argyle  Square,  King's  Cross.  — 
Camden  Road,  Holloway.  —  College  Chapel,  Devonshire  St.,  Isling- 
ton. —  Services  at  11  and  7. 

Presbyterians:  —  St.  Columbas,  Pont  St.,  Belgravia  (Dr. 
Fleming);  11  and  6.30.  —  Crown  Court  Church,  Crown  Court,  Rus- 
sell St.,  Covent  Garden  (Rev.  Alex.  Macrae);  11.15  and  6.30.  — 
These  two  are  connected  with  the  Church  of  Scotland.  The  follow- 
ing belong  to  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  England  (office,  7  East 
India  Avenue,  E.  C).  —  Regent  Square  Church,  Regent's  Square, 
Gray's  Inn  Road ;  services  at  11  and  7.  —  Marylebone  Church,  Upper 
George  St.,  Bryanston  Square,  Edgware  Road.  —  St.  John^s  Wood 
Presbyterian  Church,  Marlborough  Place,  St  John's  Wood  (Dr.  Munro 


17.  DiyiNE  SERVICE.  71 

Oilson).  —  Trinity  Churchy  Clapham  Road  (Br,  MaeEwan),  —  Welsh 
Calvinist  Chapel,  Cambridge  Circus,  Charing  Cross  Road. 

Roman  Catholics:  —  Weitminster  Cathedral  (p.  250);  services 
at  10.30,  12,  3.15,  and  7.  —  8t  OeorgeTa  Cathedral,  St.  George's 
Road,  Southwark;  various  services.  —  Pro- Cathedral,  High  St., 
Kensington ;  services  at  7, 8, 9, 10, 11,4,  and  7.  —  Oratory  (p.  366), 
Brompton  Road,  beside  the  South  Kensington  Museum ;  services 
at  6.30, 11,  3.30,  and  7.  —  Jesuit  Church  (Immaculate  Conception), 
Farm  St.,  Berkeley  Square;  services  at  7.30,  9.30,  11,  and  4.  — 
St.  Mary  of  the  Angels,  Westmoreland  Road,  Bayswater.  —  St. 
Etheldred(fs,  Ely  Place,  Holborn;  principal  services  at  11.15  and  7. 

—  St.  Patrick's,  Soho  Square.  —  St.  Joseph's,  Highgate  Hill.  — 
St.  Dominic's  Priory,  Southampton  Road,  Kentish  Town,  N.W.  — 
Sacred  Heart,  Quex  Road,  Kilbum.  —  St.  Mary's,  Cadogan  St., 
Chelsea.  —  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  Great  Ormond  St.,  W.C.  — 
St.  James's,  Spanish  Place,  Manchester  Square.  —  High  Mass  usually 
begins  at  11  a.m.,  and  Vespers  at  7  p.m.  The  Low  Masses  are  at 
7  or  8  a.m.,  and  there  is  usually  an  afternoon  service  also. 

Unitabians  :  —  Little  Portland  Street  Chapel;  services  at  11.15 
and  7  (marble  memorial  of  Dr.  James  Martlneau;  1903).  —  Rosslyn 
Hill  Chapel,  Hampstead;  services  at  11.15  and  7.  —  Essex  Church, 
The  Mall,  Netting  Hill  Gate.  — -  Effra  Road  Chapel,  Brixton.  — 
WandswoHh  Chapel,  East  Hill.  —  Unity  Church,  Upper  St.,  Isling- 
ton. —  Of  floes,  Essex  Hall,  Essex  St.,  Strand. 

The  services  of  the  South  Place  Ethical  Society  are  held  at  the 
South  Place  Institute,  at  11.15  a.m. ;  the  lectures  of  the  West  Lon- 
don Ethical  Society  (Dr,  Stanton  Coit)  are  given  at  the  Kensington 
Town  Hall,  at  11.15  a.m.  —  The  Poativists  meet  at  Essex  Hall, 
Essex  St.,  Strand,  at  7.30  p.m.  —  TheisUc  Church  (Rev.  Charles 
Voysey),  SwaUow  St.,  PiccadiUy;  11  and  7. 

The  headquarters  of  the  Salvaiion  Army  are  at  101  Queen 
Victoria  St.,  E.  C. ;  of  its  Social  Wing  at  20  Whitechapel  Road,  E.  C. 

—  The  Church  Army  has  ita  headquarters  at  130  Edgware  Road. 
Foreign  Ohurohes:  —  Danith  Chvreh  (Lutheran),  King  Street,  Poplar ; 

service  at  11  a.m.  Danish  service  also  at  Karlborough  House  Chapel 
at  4.30  p.m.  —  Dutch  Church  (Reformed  Calvinist),  6  Austin  Friars, 
near  the  Bank:  service  at  11.15 a. m.  —  French  Protestant^  Soho  Square;  ser- 
vices at  11  and  7.  —  French  Protestant  Evangelical  Churchy  Monmouth  Rqad, 
Westhoume  Grove,  Bayswater;  services  at  11  and  7.  —  French  Anglican 
Churchy  233  Shaftesbury  Avenue;  services  at  11  and3.S0.  —  French  Roman 
Catholic  Chapels,  Little  George  Street  (French  &  Portuguese  Embassies), 
and  at  5  Leicester  Place,  Leicester  Square:  various  services.  —  Qertnan 
Lutheran  Church  (lately  in  the  Savoy),  46  Cleveland  Street,  Fitaroy 
Square;  services  at  11  and  6.45.  ~-  German  Lutheran  Churches,  in  Little  ^lie 
Street,  Whitechapel,  and  at  Dalston.  —  Oerman  Reformed  Churchy  'd  Goulston 
Street,  Whitechapel.  —  Oerman  Evangelical  Churches,  Montpelier  Place, 
Brompton,  and  Fowler  Road,  Islington.  —  Oerman  Methodist  Church  (Bdhler- 
kirehe)^  Commercial  Road;  services  at  11  and  6.30.  —  German  Roman  Catholic 
Chapel,  47  Union  Street,  Whitechapel;  services  at  9, 11,  S,  and  7.  —  Oerman 
Synagogue,  see  Jews.  —  Greek  Chapel  (Russian),  82  Welheck  Street,  Caven- 
dish Square;  service  at  11  a.m.  —  Oreek  Church  (St.  Sophia),  Moscow  Road, 
Bayswater;  service  at  11  a.m.  —  Italian  Roman  Catholic  Church  (St.  PeterU), 


72  18.  GUILDS. 

Hatton  Qarden,01erkenwell  Boad,  B.C.^  services  at  8, 11,4,  andT.  —  Nortctgian 
Lutheran  Church  (Ehmezer)^  Bedriff  Boad,  Botherhithe,  S.E. ;  services  at 
10.46  and  5.  —  Swedish  Proteetant  Churchy  Prince's  Square,  8t.  George's 
Street,  Shadwell;  service  at  11  a.m  (p.  142).  —  Swiu  Piroteetant  Church, 
78  EndeU  Street,  Long  Acre ;  service  at  11  a.in. 


18.  Gnilds,  Charities,  Societies,  Clubs. 

Gaildt.  The  City  Gompaniet  or  Guilds  of  London  were  once 
apwardg  of  one  hundred  in  number ,  about  eighty  of  which  still 
exist ,  though  few  exercise  their  ancient  privileges.  About  forty 
of  them  possess  halls  in  which  they  transact  business  and  hold 
festivities;  the  others  meet  either  in  rooms  lent  to  them  at  the 
Guildhall,  or  at  the  offices  of  the  respective  clerks.  Nearly  all  the 
companies  are  called  Livery  Companies,  and  the  members  are  en- 
titled ,  on  ceremonial  occasions,  to  wear  the  liveries  (gowns,  furs, 
etc.)  of  their  respective  guilds.  Many  of  the  companies  are  ex- 
tremely wealthy,  while  others  possess  neither  halls  nor  alms- 
houses, neither  estates  nor  revenues,  —  nothing  but  ancient 
charters  to  which  they  reverentially  cling.  Some  of  the  guild-houses 
are  among  the  most  interesting  buildings  in  London,  and  are  no- 
ticed throughout  the  Handbook.  The  Twelve  Great  Companies, 
wealthier  and  more  influential  than  the  rest,  are  the  MereerSj 
Orocers,  Drapers,  Fishmongers,  Goldsmiths,  Skinners,  Merchant 
Taylors,  Haberdashers,  Baiters,  Ironmongers,  Vintners,  and  Ooth- 
workers.  Some  of  the  companies  represent  trades  now  quite  ex- 
tinct ,  and  by  their  unfamiliar  names  strikingly  illustrate  the  fact 
how  completely  they  have  outlived  their  original  purpose.  Such 
are  the  Bovjyers,  Broderers,  Oirdlers,  Homers,  Loriners  (saddlers* 
ironmongers).  Patten  Makers,  and  Scriveners. 

Gliarities.  The  charities  of  London  are  on  a  scale  commensurate 
with  the  vastness  of  the  city,  being  no  fewer  than  2000  in  number. 
They  comprise  hospitals,  dispensaries,  asylums ;  bible,  tract,  mis- 
sionary, and  district  visiting  societies;  provident  homes,  orphanages, 
etc.  A  tolerably  complete  catalogue  will  be  found  in  Fry's  Guide  to 
the  London  Charities  (i«.  6d.)  or  Low^s  Handbook  to  the  Charities  of 
London  (Is.).  The  total  voluntary  subscriptions,  donations ,  and 
bequests  to  these  charities  amount  to  about  6,000,0002.  annually, 
or  more  than  12.  for  each  man,  woman,  and  child  in  the  capital.  The 
Institution  of  ^Hospital  Sunday*,  on  which  collections  are  made  in 
all  the  churches  for  the  hospitals ,  produces  a  yearly  revenue  of 
about  70,0002.  The  'Hospital  Saturday  Fund'  is  the  result  of 
regular  weekly  collections  in  factories,  shops,  etc. ;  it  amounts  to 
about  25,0002.  per  annum.  The  following  is  a  brief  list  of  the 
chief  general  hospitals,  besides  which  there  are  numerous  special 
hospitals  for  cancer,  small-pox,  fever,  consumption,  eye  and  ear 
diseases,  and  so  forth. 


18.  CHARITIES.  73 

Charing  Crost^  Agar  Street,  Strand.  —  French  Sotpitaly  172  Shafteabury 
Avenue.  —  Oertnan»  Dalston  Lane,  Dalston.  —  Cfreat  Northern^  Holloway 
Road.  —  Quy^*^  St.  Thomas  Street,  Southwark.  —  lidlian^  10  Queen  Square. 

—  ITtn^'j  CelUffe,  Portugal  Street,  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields.  —  London^  209 
Wliitechapel  Road.  —  London  Homeopathic^  Great  Ormond  Street.  —  Metro- 
politem^  Kingsland  Road,  £.  —  Middlesex,  Mortimer  Street,  Berners  Street. 

—  National  Anti-Vivieeciion,  Albert  Bridge  Road,  Battersea.  —  North  London, 
or  Unitereity  College,  Oower  Street.  —  North-  Wat  London,  18  Kentish  Town 
Road.  —  Poplar,  303  EaU  India  Dock  Road.  —  Royal  Free,  256  Gray's 
Inn  Road.  —  8t.  Bartholomew's,  SmithQeld.  —  St.  Oeorge%  Hyde  Park 
Corner.    —    8t.  Francis  (vegetarian  and  anti-vivisection),  Kew  Kent  Road. 

—  St.  Marp^s^  Praed  St.,  Paddington.  —  St.  ThomasU,  Albert  Embankment. 

—  8eamen*»  ('Dreadnought'),  at  Greenwich  and  at  the  Victoria  and  Albert 
Docks.  —  Temperance,  flampstead  Road.  —  West  London,  Hammersmith 
Boad.  —  Westminster,  Broad  Sanctuary. 

The  following  are  Hospitals  for  Ladibs,  in  which  patients  are  received 
for  a  moderate  charge :  —  Establishment  for  InvaUd  Ladies,  90  Barley  Street 
(l<.-2i.  bs.  6d.  per  week)  \  New  Hospital  for  Women,  Ui  Buston  Road,  with 
lady-doctors ;  Chelsea  Hotpital  for  Women^  Fulham  Road. 

Hospitals  fok  Childscx.  Hospital  for  Sick  Children,  Great  Ormond 
St.  (see  p.  275);  North  Eastern,  Hackney  Road*,  Belgrave  Hospital,  1  Clapham 
Road,  S.W.;  Evelina  Hospital,  Soathwark  Bridge  Road,  S.E. ;  Yictoria 
Hospital,  Tite  St.,  Chelsea. 

University  Settlements.  These  residential  colonies ,  which  are 
intended  to  hring  the  knowledge  and  culture  of  the  educated  classes 
Into  direct  contact  with  the  needs  and  problems  of  the  poor,  for 
the  benefit  of  both,  are  Interesting  to  the  student  of  social  questions. 

The  oldest  and  perhaps  most  characteristic  example  is  Toynhee  Hail 
(p.  144).  Institutions  of  a  similar  kind,  some  of  which  are  connected 
with  partiealar  religious  bodies  and  more  or  less  missionary  in  their  aims, 
are:  Oxford  House  (PJ.  B,52),  Mape  St.,  Bethnal  Green  Road  (Church  of 
England):  Browning  Settlement  (PI.  G,  37),  York  Street,  Walworth  (Congrega- 
tional); Mansfield  House,  89  Barkine  Road,  Canning  Town;  Bermondsey 
Settlement,  Farncombe  St.  (PI.  R,  45,  49),  Jamaica  Road  (Methodist) ;  Passmore 
Edwards  Settlement,  Tavistock  Place  (Pi.  B,  28),  Bloomsbury;  Cambridge 
House,  131  Camberwell  Road,  S.E.  (PI.  G,  40,  39);  Neioman  House,  Kenning- 
ton  Park  Road  (PJ.  G,  34,  33;  Roman  Catholic);  Chalfont  House,  20  Queers 
Square  (Society  of  Friends).  —  The  Women's  University  Settlement,  45  Nelson 
Square  (Pi.  R,34),  Blackfriars  Road,  Cheltenham  College  Settlement,  OldKicholl 
Street  (PI.  B,  48),  Shoreditch,  St.  Margaret's  House,  21  OidfortRoad,  Bethnal 
Green,  the  Canning  Town  Women^s  Settlement,  461  Barkiog  Road,  the  Hoxton 
Settlement,  280  Bleyton  Street,  Nelson  Street,  eic,  are  similar  institutions 
for  women. 

Here,  too,  may  be  mentioned  the  Bowton  Houses,  a  series  of  'Poor 
Han's  Hotels'  (chief  ofdce,  7  Little  CoUege  St.,  Westminster).  The  first 
of  these  was,  on  the  late  Lord  Rowton's  initiative,  opened  at  Vauzhall  in 
1893  and  contains  484  beds.  It  has  been  followed  by  similar  institutions  at 
King's  Cross  (964  beds),  Newington  Butts  (1015  beds),  Hammersmith 
(800  beds),  WMtechapel  (816  beds),  snd  Camden  Town  (1103  beds).  The 
accommodation,  though  simple,  is  clean  and  not  uncomfortable ;  and  the 
charges  are  very  low  (cubicle,  with  use  of  day-rooms,  lavatories,  etc.. 
Id.  per  night  or  '6s.  6d.  per  week;  bedroom  Is.  per  night  or  bs.  per  week). 
The  Mills  Houses  at  New  York  (see  Baedeker's  United  States)  are  Wit  upon 
the  same  lines.  —  Peabody  Fund  and  Ouinness  Trust,  see  p.  117. 

The  London  County  Cooncil  owns  lodginjf-houses  for  men  in  Parker 
St.,  Drury  Lane  (346  bed.««)  and  at  Carrington  House,  Deptford  (802  beds), 
the  charge  at  each  being  6d.  per  night. 

Societies.  The  societies  foi  the  encouragement  of  industry, 
art,  and  science  in  London  are  extremely  numerous,  and  many  of 
them  possess  most  ample  endowments.    The  names  of  a  few  of  the 


74  18.   SOCIETIES. 

most  important  may  be  given  heie ,  some  of  them  being  described 
at  length  in  othei  paits  of  the  Handbook :  — 

Royal  Society y  Royal  Academy,  Society  of  Antiquofiea,  Oeolog- 
ieal  Society  f  Royal  Astronomical  Society,  Linnaean  Society,  Chem- 
ical Society,  British  Aaaoeiation  for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  British 
Academy  for  the  promotion  of  Historical,  Philosophical,  and  PhUo- 
logical  Studies,  aU  in  Bnrlington  House,  Piccadilly  (p.  264).  —  Royal 
Archaeological  Institute,  20  Hanover  Sq[uare.  —  Royal  College  of 
Physicians ,  12  Pall  Mall  East  (p.  163).  —  Royal  College  of  Surgeons, 
89-43  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields  (p.  207).  —  Royal  Geographical  Society^ 
1  Savile  Row,  Burlington  Gardens  (p.  266).  —  Royal  AgHeuUural 
Society,  16  Bedford  Square.  — >  Royal  Asiatic  Society,  22  Albemarle 
St.,  Piccadilly  (p.  266).  —  Royal  Society  of  Literature,  20  Hanoyex 
Square,  W.  —  Royal  College  of  Science ,  Exhibition  Road ,  South 
Kensingston  (p.  342).  —  Society  for  the  Encouragement  of  Arts, 
Manufactures,  and  Commerce,  generally  known  as  the  Society  of 
Arts  Cp.  161),  18  John  St.,  Adelphi,  Strand.  —  Royal  Academy  of 
Music,  4  Tenterden  St.,  Hanover  Square  (p.  268).  —  Royal  College 
of  Music,  Prince  Consort  Road,  South  Kensington  (p.  340).  —  Trinity 
College  (music  and  arts),  13  Mandeville  Place,  Manchester  Square 
(p.  270).  —  Ouildhall  School  of  Music,  John  Carpenter  St.,  E.C. 
(p.  127).  —  Heralds'  ColUge,  Queen  Victoria  St.  (p.  130).  —  In- 
stitute of  Civil  Engineers,  25  Great  George  St.,  Westminster  (p.  216). 
—  Institution  of  Mechanical  Engineers,  Storey's  Gate  (p.  323).  — 
Royal  Institute  of  British  Architects,  9  Conduit  St.,  W.  (good  col- 
lection of  books  on  architecture).  —  Royal  Sanitary  Institute  (with 
Parkes  Museum  of  Hygiene,  p.  269),  74a  Margaret  St.,  Cavendish 
Square.  —  Royal  Institution,  21  Albemarle  St.,  Piccadilly  (p.  266). 
Popular  lectures  on  science,  art,  and  literature  are  delivered 
here  on  Friday  evenings  during  the  Season  (adm.  by  a  member's 
order).  Six  lectures  for  children,  illustrated  by  experiments,  are 
given  after  Christmas.  —  London  School  of  Economics  and  Poli- 
tical Science,  Clare  Market  (p.  210).  —  London  School  of  EtUce 
and  Social  Philosophy ,  Passmore  Edwards  Settlement ,  Tavistock 
Place,  Bloomsbury  (p.  273).  —  Society  of  Authors,  39  Old  Queen 
St.,  Storey's  Gate,  S.W. 

A  very  fall  list  of  Societies  and  Institutions  in  London  will  be  found 
in  Whitaker^s  Almanack  (p.  xxxvi). 

The  Clubs  are  chiefly  devoted  to  social  purposes.  Most  of  the 
club-houses  at  the  West  End,  particularly  those  in  or  near  Pall  Mall, 
are  very  handsome,  and  admirably  fitted  up,  affording  every  possible 
comfort.  To  a  bachelor  in  particular  his  *club'  is  a  most  serviceable  in- 
stitution. Members  are  admitted  by  ballot,  but  candidates  are  reject- 
ed by  a  certain  small  proportion  of  'black  balls*  or  dissentient  votes. 
The  entrance  fee  varies  from  il.  is,  to  42^.,  and  the  annual  subscrip- 
tion is  from  \l.  Is.  to  122. 128.  The  introduction  of  guests  by  a  mem- 
ber is  allowed  in  most,  but  not  in  all  of  the  clubs.  The  cuisine  is  usu- 


18.  CLUBS.  75 

ally  admirable.  The  wine  and  viands,  wUch  are  told  at  little  more 
than  coat  price,  often  attain  a  pitch  of  perfection  unexcelled  by  the 
most  elaborate  and  expensive  restaurants. 

We  append  a  roughly  classified  list  of  the  most  important  clubs : — 

Folitioal.  —  GoHasBVATivK :  Cartton,  94  Pall  Mall,  the  premier  Conser- 
vative Club  (1800  members) $  CUjfCarUWy  24  St.  8within*s  Lane;  ConttrvaHv 
Club,  74  St.  James's  St.  (ISOO  members)}  ConttiMional^  Korthumberland 
Ayenue  (6600  members);  Junior  CarUon,  90-36  Pall  Kali  (2100  members); 
JwUor  Contervaitve,  43  Albemarle  St.  (6600  members);  Junior  Conttittt- 
tional^  101  Piccadilly  (6600  members);  Primrose^  4  Park  Place,  St.  James's 
(5000  members);  8i.  Stephen:*,  1  Bridge  St.,  Westminster.  —  Libbral: 
Brooks's,  60  St.  James's  St.  (Whiff  clab);  dtp  Liberal  Club,  Walbrook; 
Devonshire,  60  St.  James's  St.  (1300  members):  National  Liberal,  White- 
hall Place  (6000 members);  New  R^orm  Club,  lOAdelphl  Terrace;  Reform, 
104  Pall  Mall,  the  premier  Liberal  Club  (1400  members).  —  The  8t,  James's 
Chib,  106  Piccadilly,  is  for  the  diplomatic  service  (660  members).  —  The 
ITnited  Empire  Chtb,  117  Piccadilly,  is  for  tariff  reformers. 

Military  and  Naval  and  University  Clubs.  —  Armif  and  Nawji  Club,  36 
Pall  Mall  (2400  members) ;  ^ttft/tory  Forces,  Whitehall  Cuurt,  S.W. ;  Cavakry, 
127  Piccadilly;  City  UnivorsU^,  60  CornhiU;  Bast  India  United  Service,  16 
St.  James's  Square  (2600  members) ;  Onards'  Club,  70  Pall  Mall ;  Junior 
Armif  and  Navy,  10  St.  James's  St.  (3000  members);  Junior  Naval  and 
Jfilitary,  97  Piccadilly  ;/«n<or  UniUd  Service,  11  Charles  St.  (3000  members); 
Naval  and  Military,  94  Piccadilly  (2q(X)  members) ;  New  Oxford  and  Cambridge, 
68  Pall  Mall ;  Nem  (hUversity,  67  St.  James's  St. ;  Oxford  and  Cambridge,  71-76 
Pall  Mall;  tMted  Service^  116  Pall  Mall  (1600  members;  members  must  not 
hold  lower  rank  than  major  in  the  army  or  commander  in  the  navy) ;  United 
University,  1  Suffolk  Street. 

Literary,  Dramatic,  Artistic  Olubs,  etc.  —  Arts  Club,  40  Dover  St., 
Piccadilly;  Arundei,  1  Adelphi  Terrace.  —  Athenaeum  aub,  107  PaU  Mall, 
the  club  of  the  Merati ;  1300  members.  (Distinguished  strangers  visiting 
London  may  be  elected  honorary  members  of  the  Atheneenm  during  their 
temporary  residence  in  London.)  —  Authors',  4  Whitehall  Court,  S.W.; 
Burlington  Fine  ArU  Club,  17  Savile  Bow ;  Camera,  38  Charing  Cross  Road ; 
Criekton,  89  King  St.,  Covent  G^arden;  Carrick  0M>,  18  and  16  Garrick  St., 
Covent  (harden,  for  literary  men  and  actors  (660  members) ;  Green  Room,  46 
Leicester  Square;  0.  P.  Club,  Piazza,  Covent  Garden;  Playgoers',  6  Clement's 
Inn;  Preu  Club,  7  Wine  Office  Court,  Fleet  St.;  Royal  Societies'  Club,  63 
St.  James's  St.  (1700  members);  Savage  Club,  6  Adelphi  Terrace;  Yorick, 
29  Bedford  St.,  W.C. 

Sporting  Olnba.  —  Alpine  Club,  23  Savile  Bow ;  AutomobUe,  119  Piccadilly 
(over  3000  members ;  about  to  remove  to  the  old  War  Office  in  Pall  Mall, 

S262);  Badminton,  100  Piccadilly  (1(X)0  members;  sporting  and  coaching); 
aths  Club,  34  Dover  St.  and  (for  ladies)  16  Berkeley  St.  (for  swimming, 
etc.;  3000  members,  including  600  ladies);  Golfers',  2a  Whitehall  Court; 
Isthmicm,  106  Piccadilly;  Kennel  Club,  7  Grafton  St.,  W. ;  Motor,  Coventry 
St.,  W.;  National  Sporting  Club,  43  King  St.,  Covent  Garden;  Nimrod,  12 
St.  James's  Square;  JMnee's,  Knightsbridge  (rackets  and  tennis,  skating); 
Queen's,  Weei  Kensington  (tennis,  rackets,  etc.);  Royal  London  Yacht,  2 
Savile  Bow;  Royal  Thames  Yacht,  7  Albemarle  St.;  Sports.  8  St.  James's 
Square;  Turf,  85  Piccadilly  (whist  and  other  card  games);  Victoria,  18 
Wellington  St.,  Strand.  —  Hurlingham  Club,  see  p.  388;  Ranelagh  Club,  see 
p.  386.  —  Comp.  pp.  61-56. 

Social  and  General  Olubs.  —  Albemarle,  13  Albemarle  St.  (about  to  re- 
move to  37  Dover  St.),  for  ladies  and  gentlemen  (800  members);  Almack's,  30 
Berkeley  St.,  W.;  Arthur's,  69  St.  James's  St.;  Australasian,  24  St.  Mary 
Axe,  "£,.0.',  Bachelors',  8  Hamilton  Place;  Blenheim,  12  St.  James's  Square; 
Boodle's,  SB  St.  James's  St.  (chiefly  for  country  gentlemen) ;  CaHedonian,  SO 
Charles  St.,  S.W. ;  CiJly  Athenaeum,  Angel  Court,  E.G.;  City  of  London,  19  Old 
Broad  St.,  City;  Cocoa  Tree,  6)  St.  James's  St. ;  Colonial  Club,  Whitehall  Court, 


76  19.    GENERAL  HINTS. 

Charing  Gross;  Eccentric^  21  Shaftesbury  Ayennet  Oemum  Athenatum,  93 
Mortimer  St.;  Gruham^  1  Gresham  Place,  City;  Orotvmor^  68a  Piccadilly 
(3000  members);  Junior  Athenaeum,  116  Piccadilly;  Martborouffh,  63  Pall 
Hall ;  National,  i  Whitehall  Gardens ;  New,  4  Grafton  St. ;  Orientai,  18  Hanover 
Square;  Orleans,  29  King  St.,  St.  Jamea's  (admits  ladies  as  guests) ;  Portland^ 
OSt.  Jamea's  Square  (whist);  PraWt,  14  Park  Place,  S.W.;  Raleigh,  16  Re- 
gent St.;  SaviU  Cktb,  107  Piccadilly,  W. ;  Sesame,  28  Dover  St.,  for  ladies 
and  gentlemen  (1150  members);  Thatched  House,  86  St.  Jameses  St.;  Trav- 
ellers", 106  Pall  Hall  (800  members;  each  member  must  have  travelled  at 
least  1000  miles  from  London);  Union  Club,  Trafalgar  Square,  comer  of 
Cockspur  St. ;  Wellington,  1  Grosvenor  Place;  ir«f»n<rM<«r, 3  Whitehall  Court ; 
White's  Club,  37  St.  James's  St.;  Whitehall  Club,  Whitehall  Court,  S.W. ; 
Windham  Club,  13  St.  James's  Square. 

Ladies'  Glubt.  —  Alexandra,  12  Grosvenor  St.  (830  members) ;  Alliance, 
37Clarges  St. ;  Ladies^  Army  and  Navy,  2  Burlington  Gardens;  Ladies*  Athe- 
naeum, a  Dover  St. ;  Ladies'  Empire,  69  Grosvenor  St. ;  Empress,  35  Dover  St. ; 
Qreen  Park,  10  Grafton  St. ;  Grosvenor  Crescent,  15  Grosvenor  Crescent;  Ladies^ 
Imperial,  17  Dover  St. ;  Lyceum,  128  Piccadilly;  New  Century,  Hay  Bill  Lodge, 
Hay  Hill,  Berkeley  Square ;  New  County,  21  Hanover  Square;  New  Victorian, 
30  Sackville  St. ;  Pioneer,  6  Grafton  St. ;  Sandringham,  38  Dover  St. ;  Ladies^ 
University,  4  George  St.,  Hanover  Square;  Writers',  10  Norfolk  St.,  Strand.  — 
Society  of  American  Women  in  London,  5a  Pall  Mali  East.  —  The  Albemarle,  the 
Sesame,  and  the  Baths  Clubs  (see  p.  75  and  above)  are  for  ladies  and  gentlemen. 

The  Royal  Colonial  Institute,  Northumberland  Avenue,  founded  in  1863 
for  the  purpose  of  'providing  a  place  of  meeting  for  all  gentlemen  con- 
nected with  the  Colonies  and  British  India'  (3800  members),  offers  many 
of  the  advantages  of  a  good  club.  —  The  American  Society  in  London  (141 
Southampton  Row,  W.  C.)  has  for  its  object  *lhe  promotion  of  patriotic 
and  social  life  amongst  Americans  residing  in  London,  and  the  fostering 
of  the  sentiments  of  mutual  respect  and  affection,  which  bind  together  the 
peoples  of  America  and  Great  Britain'.  —  The  Foreign  Missions  Club,  149 
Highbury  New  Park^  is  intended  for  missionaries  and  those  interested  in 
their  work. 


19.  General  Hints. 

Some  of  the  following  remarks  may  be  deemed  Buperfluous  by 
many  readers  of  this  Handbook ;  but  a  few  observations  on  English 
or  London  peculiarities  may  not  be  unacceptable  to  the  American, 
the  English-speaking  foreigner,  or  the  provincial  risitor. 

In  England  Sunday ,  as  is  well  known,  is  observed  as  a  day  of 
rest  and  of  public  worship.  Shops,  places  of  amusement,  and  the 
City  restaurants  are  closed  the  whole  day,  while  other  restaurants 
are  open  from  1  to  3,  and  from  6  to  11  p.m.  only.  Many  museums 
and  galleries,  however,  are  now  opened  on  Sun.  (see  p.  82).  Many 
places  of  business  are  closed  from  1,  2,  or  3  p.m.  on  Saturday  till 
Monday  morning.  Among  these  are  all  the  banks  and  Insurance 
offices  and  practically  all  the  wholesale  warehouses. 

Like  *a'ii  vousplatV  in  Paris,  Hf  you  please  or  ^please'  is  generally 
used  in  ordering  refreshments  at  a  caf^  or  restaurant,  oi  in  making 
any  request.  The  English  forms  of  politeness  are,  however,  by  no 
means  so  minute  or  ceremonious  as  the  French.  For  example,  the 
hat  Is  usually  raised  to  ladies  only,  and  is  worn  in  public  places, 
such  as  shops,  caf^s,  music-halls,  and  museums.   It  should,  how- 


19.  GENERAL  HINTS.  77 

ever,  be  removed  ia  the  presence  of  ladies  in  a  hotel-lift  (oleyator). 
—  The  fashionable  hour  for  paying  visits  In  London  is  between  4 
and  6  p.m.  The  proper  mode  of  delivering  a  letter  of  Introdaction 
is  in  person,  along  with  the  bearer  s  visiting-card  and  address;  bnt 
when  this  is  rendered  Inconvenient  by  the  greatness  of  distance  or 
other  canse,  the  letter  may  be  sent  by  post,  accompanied  by  a 
polite  explanation. 

The  usual  dinner  hour  of  the  upper  classes  varies  from  7  to  8 
or  even  9  p.m.  A  common  form  of  invitation  is  *eight,  for  half- 
past  eight',  in  which  case  the  guest  should  arrive  not  later  than 
the  latter  hour.  Gentlemen  remain  at  table ^  over  their  wine,  for  a 
short  time  after  the  ladles  have  left. 

Foreigners  may  often  obtain,  through  their  ambassadors,  per- 
mission to  visit  private  collections  which  are  not  open  to  the  or- 
dinary English  tourist. 

We  need  hardly  caution  newcomers  against  the  artiflces  of  pick- 
pockets and  the  wiles  of  impostors,  two  fraternities  which  are  very 
numerous  in  London.  It  Is  even  prudent  to  avoid  speaking  to 
strangers  in  the  street.  All  information  desired  by  the  traveller 
may  be  obtained  from  one  of  the  policemen,  of  whom  about  16,000 
(about  260  mounted)  perambulate  the  streets  of  the  Metropolis.  If 
a  policeman  Is  not  readily  found,  application  may  be  made  to  a 
postal  letter  carrier,  to  a  commisslonnaire,  or  at  a  neighbouring 
shop.  A  considerable  degree  of  caution  and  presence  of  mind  is 
often  requisite  in  crossing  a  crowded  thoroughfare,  and  In  entering 
or  alighting  from  a  train  or  omnibus.  The  ^rule  of  the  road'  for 
foot-passengers  In  busy  streets  is  to  keep  to  the  right  Poor  neigh- 
bourhoods should  be  avoided  after  nightfall.  Strangers  are  also  warned 
against  Mock  Auctions^  and  indeed  should  neither  buy  nor  sell  at 
any  auction  without  the  aid  of  an  experienced  friend  or  a  trust- 
worthy broker. 

*Bule  of  the  road'  for  vehicles,  see  p.  63. 

Addbbssbs  of  all  kinds  may  be  found  In  KtUxps  Post  Office 
Directory^  a  thick  volume  of  3500  pages,  which  may  be  seen  at  all 
the  hotels  and  caf^s  and  at  most  of  the  principal  shops.  The  ad- 
dresses of  residents  at  the  "West  End  and  other  suburbs  may  also 
be  obtained  from  Boyle  8  Court  Guide,  Webster  s  Royal  Red  Book, 
the  Royal  Blue  Book,  or  Kelly's  Suburban  Directory,  and  those  of 
city  men  and  firms  in  Collingridges  City  Directory.  —  Information 
about  those  who  are  prominent  In  politics,  literature,  art,  etc.  as 
well  as  about  the  celebrities  of  *Soclety'  may  be  obtained  in  Who's 
Who,  an  annual  publication. 

A  useful  adjunct  to  most  houses  In  the  central  parts  of  London 
la  a  Cab  Whistle,  one  blast  upon  which  summons  a  four-wheeler, 
two  a  hansom,  three  a  taxicab. 

Among  the  characteristic  sights  of  London  is  the  Lord  Mayor's 
Show  (9th  Nov.),  or  the  procession  in  which  —  maintaining  an 


78  20.   PBELIMINARY  RAMBLE. 

ancient  and  picturesque ,  though  uEcless  custom  —  the  newly- 
elected  Lord  Mayor  moTes,  amid  great  pomp  and  ceremony,  through 
the  streets  from  the  City  to  the  Courts  of  Justice,  in  order  to  take 
the  oath  of  office.  It  is  followed  by  the  great  dinner  in  the  Guild- 
hall (p.  108). 

20.   Preliminary  Bamble. 

Nothing  is  better  calculated  to  afford  the  traveller  some  insight 
into  the  labyrinthine  topography  of  London,  to  enable  him  to 
ascertain  his  bearings,  and  to  dispel  the  first  oppressive  feeling  of 
solitude  and  insignificance,  than  a  drive  through  the  principal 
quarters  of  the  town. 

The  outside  of  an  omnibus  affords  a  much  better  view  than  a 
cab  (fares,  see  p.  18),  and,  moreover,  has  the  advantage  of  cheap- 
ness. If  the  driver,  beside  whom  the  stranger  should  sit,  happens 
to  be  obliging  (and  a  small  gratuity  will  generally  make  him  so), 
he  will  afford  much  useful  information  about  the  buildings,  monu- 
ments ,  and  other  sights  on  the  route ;  but  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  distract  his  attention  in  crowded  parts.  Bven  without  such 
assistance,  however,  our  plan  of  the  dty,  if  carefully  consulted, 
will  supply  all  necessary  information.  If  ladies  are  of  the  party,  an 
open  Fly  (see  p.  19)  is  the  most  comfortable  conveyance. 

Taking  Hyde  Park  Comer,  at  the  W.  end  of  Piccadilly,  as  a  con- 
venient starting-point,  we  mount  one  of  the  numerous  omnibuses 
which  ply  to  the  Bank  and  London  Bridge  and  traverse  nearly 
the  whole  of  the  quarters  lying  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Thames. 
Entering  Piccadilly,  we  first  pass,  on  the  right,  the  Green  Park, 
beyond  which  rises  Buckingham  Palace  (p.  323).  A  little  farther  to 
the  £.,  in  the  distance,  we  descry  the  campanile  of  Westminster  Ca- 
thedral (p.  250)  and  the  towers  of  Westminster  Abbey  (p.  225)  and 
the  Houses  of  Parliament  (p.  217).  At  the  end  of  the  Green  Park, 
on  the  light,  is  the  Hdtel  Ritz}  farther  on,  on  the  left,  rises  the 
massive  new  Piccadilly  Hotel.  In  Regent  Street  on  the  right,  at 
some  distance  off,  rises  the  York  Column  (p.  261).  Passing  Pic- 
cadilly Circus  with  the  Shaftesbury  Memorial  (p.  266),  we  drive  to 
the  right  through  the  Haymarket,  near  the  end  of  which  are  the 
Haymarket  Theatre  (p.  45)  on  the  left,  and  His  Majesty's  Theatre 
(p.  46)  and  the  Carlton  Hotel  on  the  right.  We  now  come  to  Tra- 
falgar Square,  with  the  Nelson  Monument  (p.  162)  and  the  Na- 
tional Gallery  (p.  165).  On  the  right,  in  the  direction  of  White- 
hall, we  observe  the  old  statue  of  Charles  I.  (p.  164).  Passing 
Charing  Cross,  with  the  large  Charing  Cross  Hotel  on  the  right,  we 
enter  the  Strand,  where  the  Adelphi, Vaudeville,  Lyceum,  Gaiety,  and 
other  theatres  lie  on  our  left,  and  the  Savoy  and  Terry's  theatres  on 
our  right  (pp.  44-47).  On  the  left  is  Southampton  Street,  leading  to 
Covent  Garden  (p.  210),  and  on  the  right  Wellington  Street,  with  Som- 


20.   PRELIMINARY  RAMBLE.  79 

erset  House  (p.  159)  neai  the  corner,  leading  to  Waterloo  Bridge 
(p.  160).  Near  the  middle  of  the  Strand  we  reach  the  church  of  St. 
Mary  le  Strand  (p.  159),  to  the  N.  of  which  lie  Aldwych  and  Kings- 
way  leading  to  Holhom  (p.  158),  and  farther  on  is  St.  Clement  Danes 
(p.  157).  On  the  left  we  see  the  extensive  Law  Courts  (p.  155). 
Passing  the  site  of  Temple  Bar  (see  p.  155),  we  now  enter  the  City 
proper  (p.  xxix).  On  the  right  of  Fleet  Street  are  several  entrances  to 
the  Temple  (p.  152),  while  on  the  left  rises  the  church  of  St.  Dun- 
stan  in  the  West  (p.  149).  At  the  end  of  Farringdon  Street,  diverg- 
ing  on  the  left,  we  notice  the  Holbom  Viaduct  Bridge  (p.  98) ;  on 
the  right,  in  New  Bridge  Street,  is  the  Ludgate  Hill  Station.  We 
next  drive  up  Ludgate  Hill,  pass  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  (p.  85)  on 
the  left,  and  turn  to  the  left  to  Cheapside,  noticing  the  monument 
of  Sir  Robert  Peel  (p.  95),  to  the  N.  of  which  is  the  General  Post 
Office  (p.  95).  In  Cheapside  we  observe  Bow  Church  (p.  107)  on 
the  right,  and  near  it  the  OuUdhall  (p.  108)  at  the  end  of  King 
Street  on  the  left.  Quitting  Cheapside,  we  enter  the  Poultry,  in 
which  the  Mansion  House  (p.  112)  rises  on  the  right.  Opposite  the 
Mansion  House  is  the  Bank  of  England  (p.  113),  and  before  us  is 
the  Royal  Exchange  (p.  115),  with  Wellington's  Statue  in  front. 
We  then  drive  through  King  William  Street,  with  the  Statue  of 
William  IV.,  observing  the  Monument  (p.  123)  on  the  left. 

We  now  quit  the  omnibus,  and  walk  along  Lower  Thames  Street, 
passing  Billingsgate  (p.  124)  and  the  Custom  House  (p.  124),  to  the 
Tower  (p.  131).  We  then  cross  the  Tower  Bridge  (p.  140)  and 
walk  back  along  Tooley  Street ,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  river,  to  St 
Saviour's  Church  (p.  375)  and  London  Bridge  (p.  122).  Hence  we  may 
reach  Oxford  Circus  by  omnibus  via  Cheapglde  and  Holborn  or,  if 
we  are  fortunate  enough  to  find  the  steamers  plying  (comp.  p.  38), 
we  may  ascend  the  river  by  steamer,  passing  under  the  Cannon 
Street  Station  Railway  Bridge,  Southwark  Bridge  (with  St.  Paul's 
rising  on  the  right),  the  Chatham  and  Dover  Bridge,  and  Black- 
friars  Bridge.  Between  Blackfriars  Bridge  and  Westminster  runs 
the  Victoria  Embankment  (p.  125).  On  the  right  are  the  Temple 
(p.  152)  and  Somerset  House  (p.  159).  The  steamer  then  passes 
under  Waterloo  Bridge  (p.  160),  beyond  which,  to  the  right,  on 
the  Embankment,  stands  Cleopatra's  Needle  (p.  126),  with  the 
huge  Savoy  and  Cecil  Hotels  rising  behind.  We  alight  at  Charing 
Cross  Pier,  adjacent  to  the  Charing  Cross  Railway  Bridge,  and 
re-embark  in  a  Chelsea  Boat,  which  will  convey  us  past  Montague 
House  (p.  215),  New  Scotland  Yard  (p.  216),  Westminster  Bridge 
(p.  216),  and  the  Houses  of  Parliament  (p.  217),  behind  which 
is  Westminster  Abbey  (p.  225).  Farther  on  appears  the  campanile 
of  Westminster  Cathedral  (p.  250).  On  the  left  is  the  Albert 
Embankment,  with  St.  Thomas's  Hospital  (p.  379) ;  and,  farther  on, 
Lambeth  Palace  (p.  379)  with  the  Lollards'  Tower.  Passing  under 
Lambeth  Bridge,  we  see  the  Tate  Gallery  (p.  251)  on  the  right. 


80  24.    PRELIMINARY  RAMBLE. 

We  then  reach  Vauxhall  Bridge.  From  Yaiixhall  the  traveller  may 
walk  or  take  a  tramway-car  to  Victoria  Station,  whence  an  omnibus 
will  convey  him  to  Oxford  Street. 

[Failing  the  steamer,  we  proceed  on  foot  from  the  N.  end  of 
London  Bridge  vil  Upper  Thames  Street  to  Blackfriars  Bridge. 
Thence  a  tramway  runs  along  the  Victoria  Embankment  to  West- 
minster Bridge,  beyond  which  the  excursion  must  be  finished  on 
foot  or  by  cab.  Passing  between  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  on  the 
left,  and  St.  Margaret's  Church  (p.  224)  and  Westminster  Abbey 
on  the  right,  we  follow  Abingdon  Street  and  Millbank  through  a 
squalid  district  now  undergoing  Improvement  to  Lambeth  Bridge 
and  thence  skirt  the  river,  passing  the  Tate  Gallery,  to  Vauxhall 
Bridge.] 

Those  who  have  time  for  a  longer  excursion  may  proceed  from 
the  Tower  up  Seething  Lane  to  the  Fenchurch  Street  Station  of  the 
London  ^  Blackwall  Railway,  whence  a  train  carries  them  to  Black- 
wall.  Thence  after  inspecting  Blackwall  Tunnel  (p.  143)  we  return, 
if  possible  by  steamer  (p.  38),  to  London  Bridge,  and  proceed  as 
above. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  quarters  on  the  right  (S.)  bank 
of  the  Thames,  or  Surrey  side,  we  take  a  light-green  Atkis  omnibus 
(not  a  City  Atlas)  at  Oxford  Circus  (Plan  R,  23),  and  drive  through 
Regent  Street,  Regent's  Quadrant,  Piccadilly  Circus,  Regent  Street 
(continued),  Waterloo  Place  (with  the  Crimean  Monument  and  the 
York  Column),  Pall  Mall  East,  and  Charing  Cross  to  (right) Whitehall. 
Here  we  observe,  on  the  left,  the  War  Office  (p.  212)  and  White- 
hall Banqueting  Hall  (p.  214),  and  on  the  right  the  Admiralty,  the 
Horse  Guards  (p.  212),  and  the  Government  Offices.  Our  route  next 
lies  through  Parliament  Street,  beyond  which  we  pass  Westminster 
Abbey  (p.  226)  and  the  Houses  of  Parliament  (p.  217)  on  the  right. 
The  omnibus  then  crosses  Westminster  Bridge  (p.  216),  with  the 
Victoria  Embankment  on  the  left,  and  the  Albert  Embankment  and 
St.  Thomas's  Hospital  on  the  right.  Traversing  Westminster  Bridge 
Road,  we  observe,  on  the  right,  Christ  Church  (p.  881).  In  Lam- 
beth Road  we  perceive  the  Church  of  St.  George  (p.  381),  the 
Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  Southwark,  and,  opposite  to  it,  Beth- 
lehem Hospital  (p.  331).  Farther  on  we  reach  St.  George's  Circus, 
with  Its  clock-tower  (p.  382).  A  little  to  the  S.  of  this  point,  we 
arrive  at  the  Elephant  and  Castle  (on  the  right),  where  we  alight, 
to  resume  our  journey  on  a  blue  Waterloo  omnibus.  This  takes  ua 
through  London  Road  to  Waterloo  Road,  to  the  right  of  which 
are  the  Surrey  Theatre  (Blackfriars  Road),  Magdalen  Hospital,  and 
the  Royal  Victoria  Coflfee  Music  Hall  (p.  48),  and  on  the  left  the 
South  Western  Railway  Station.  We  then  cross  Waterloo  Bridge 
fp.  160),  drive  along  Wellington  Street,  passing  Somerset  House 
(p.  159),  and  turn  to  the  left  Into  the  Strand,  which  leads  us  to 
Charing  Cross. 


21.    DISPOSITION  OP  TIME.  81 

Our  first  cariosity  having  thus  been  gratified  by  a  general  survey 
of  London,  we  may  now  devote  our  attention  to  its  collections, 
monuments,  and  biddings  in  detail. 

21.  Disposition  of  Timo. 

Tbe  most  indefatigable  sigbt-seex  will  take  at  least  three  weeks 
to  obtain  even  a  superficial  acquaintance  with  London  and  its  objects 
of  interest.  A  plan  of  operations,  prepared  beforehand,  will  aid  him 
in  regulating  his  movements  and  economising  his  time.  Fine  days 
should  be  spent  in  visiting  the  docks,  parks,  gardens,  and  environs. 
Excursions  to  the  country  around  London,  in  particular,  should  not 
be  postponed  to  the  end  of  one's  sojourn,  as  otherwise  the  setting 
in  of  bad  weather  may  altogether  preclude  a  visit  to  the  many 
beautiful  spots  in  the  neighbourhood.  Fuller  particulars  of  many 
excursions  which  can  be  made  from  London  in  the  course  of  a  long 
day,  though  hardly  included  in  its  environs,  will  be  found  in  Bae- 
deker's Handbook  to  Oreat  Britain,  Rainy  days  had  better  be  devoted 
to  the  galleries  and  museums. 

The  following  list  shows  the  days  and  hours  when  the  principal 
collections  and  other  sights  are  accessible.  In  winter  (Oct.  to  April 
inclusive)  the  collections  close  at  the  earlier  hours  shown  in  the 
accompanying  table  ^  in  summer  at  the  later  hours.  The  morning 
and  late  afternoon  hours  may  be  appropriately  spent  in  visiting  the 
principal  churches,  many  of  which  are  open  the  whole  day,  or  in 
walking  in  the  parks  or  in  the  Zoological  and  the  Botanical  Gardens, 
while  the  evenings  may  be  devoted  to  the  theatres.  The  best  time 
for  a  promenade  in  Regent  Street  or  Hyde  Park  is  between  6  and 
7  o'clock,  when  they  both  present  a  remarkably  busy  and  attractive 
scene.  When  the  traveller  happens  to  be  near  London  Bridge  (or  the 
Tower  Bridge)  he  should  take  the  opportunity  of  crossing  it  in  order 
to  obtain  a  view  of  the  Port  of  London  and  its  adjuncts,  with  its 
sea-going  vessels  arriving  or  departing,  the  Innumerable  river-craft 
of  all  sizes,  and  the  vast  traffic  In  the  docks.  A  trip  to  Gravesend 
(see  p.  389)  should  by  all  means  be  taken  in  order  to  obtain  a  proper 
view  of  the  shipping,  no  other  port  in  the  world  presenting  such 
a  sight. 

The  data  in  the  accompanying  table  (pp.  82,  83),  though  care- 
fully revised  down  to  1908,  are  liable  to  firequent  alteration.  The 
traveller  is,  therefore,  recommended  to  consult  one  of  the  principal 
London  newspapers  •  with  regard  to  the  sights  of  the  day.  Our  list 
does  not  include  parks,  gardens,  and  other  places  which,  on  all 
week-days  at  least,  are  open  to  the  public  gratis.  The  double  asterisks 
indicate  those  sights  which  should  on  no  account  be  omitted,  while 
those  next  in  importance  are  denoted  by  single  asterisks.  These 
indications,  in  conjunction  with  the  special  tastes  and  interests  of 
each  individual,  will  help  the  hurried  visitor  to  make  good  use  of 
Babdeskr*8  London.   15th  Edit.  6 


82 


21.   DISPOSITION  OF  TIME. 


Carlyle'8  House  (p.  368)   .  .  . 

Charterhonse  (p.  103) 

Chelsea  Hospital  (p.  867)  .  .  . 
•Crystal  PaUce  (p.  400).  .  .  . 
•Dulwich  Gallery  (p.  897).  .  . 
Foundling  Hospital  (p.  274)  . 
Oreenwieh  HospiUl  (p.  892).  . 
Guildhall,  Picture  Gal.  (p.  110) 

— ,  Museum  (p.  110) 

•Hampton  Court  Palace  (p.  406) 
Imperial  Institute  (p.  841)  .  . 
•Kensington  Palace  (p.  828).  . 
•Kew  Gardens  (p.  418)  .... 
Leighton  House  (p.  339)    .   .  . 

Monument  (p.  123) 

Museum,  Bethnal  Green  (p.  146) 

— ,  ••British  (p.  290) 

— ,  Geological  (p.  268)  .... 
— ,  •Natural  History  (p.  842)  . 

— ,  Soane  (p.  206) 

— ,  «*South  Kensington  (p.  346) 

— ,  United  Service  (p.  214)  .   . 
♦•National  Gallery  (p.  165)  .  . 
• of  British  Art  (Tate  Gal- 
lery, p.  261)  

••-  Portrait  Gallery  (p.  197)  . 

•Parliament,  Houses  of  (p.  217) 

Royal  Academy,  Summer  £x- 

hib.  (pp.  60,  265) 

— ,  Winter  Bxhib.  (p.  60).  .  . 
^,  Gibson  and  Diploma  Gal. 

(pp.  50,  266) 

RoyalOollege  of  Surgeon8(p.207) 
"•St.  Paul's  Cathedral  (p.  86) . 
Society  of  Arts  (p.  161) .  .  .  . 
"Temple  Church  (p.  163)  .  .  . 
•Tower  (p.  131) 

**WAllace  Collection  (p.  276) 

••Westminster  Abbey  (p.  226) 

•Zoological  Gardens  (p.  286)  . 


Sunday 


Monday 


serriees 
services 


11-1 

2-4,5,6 

3-8 

2-4,6 

2-4,6 
1-6 


2  till  dusk 
24,5,5.30,6 

2  tiU  dusk 
2.30  till  dusk 


2  till  dusk 

2-5,6 

24,6 

2.80-5.30 


services 
services 

2-5,6 

services 

(see  p.  286) 


10  till  dusk 
104, 5,  6 
10^1,  2-7 

10  till  dusk 
104,6,6 

104 
10-4,5,6 
104,  6 
104,  5 
10-4,6 
11-4,5 
104,6 
10(12)-6 

11  till  dusk 
8^6,94 

10-10 
10-6 

laio 

)  104,  4.30, 
)  5,  5.30,  6 


10-10 

114,6 
104,4.30,5,6 

10-4,4.80,5,6 

10-4,6,6 


Tuesday 


10  till  dusk 
10-4,  5,  6 
10-1,  2-7 

10  till  dusk 
10-4,5,6 

10-4, 5,  6 
104,5 
104,5 
10-4,6 
114,6 
104,6 
10(12)-6 

11  till  dusk 
8-6,94 
10-4, 5,  6 

10^6 

10-5 

10-4,  4.30,  6, 

5.80,6 

11-5 

10-4, 6, 6 

114,6 
104,4.80,6,6 

11-4,  5 

114,5,6 


8-7 
9  till  dusk 

114 
11-4,5 

9-6 

104 
104,5  • 
10-4,6 

124,4.30,5,6 

9  till  dusk 

9  till  dusk 


Wednesday 


10  till  dusk 
104,  5,  6 
10-1,' 3-7 

10  till  dusk 
10-4,5,6 

10-4,5,6 
104,5 
10-4,5 
10-4,6 
114,5 

10(12)-6 

11  till  dusk 
8-6, 9-4 
10-4,  5, 6 

10-6 

10-5 

104,  4.30, 5, 

5.30,  6 

11-5 

104, 6,  6 

114,6 
104,4.80,5,6 

114,  5 

114,  5,  6 


8-7 
9  tUl  dusk 

114 
11-4,5 

9-5 

10-4 
104,6 

104 

10-4,4.30,5,6 
9  till  dusk 
9  till  dusk 


8-7 
9  till  dusk 

114 
114,5 

9-5 

10-4 
104,5 

10-4 

104,4.30,5,6 
9  till  dusk 
9  till  dusk 


21.  DISPOSITION  or  TIMB. 


83 


Tbursdaj 

Frldftj 

Saturday 

Admisaioii  free  except  when  other- 
wise stated. 

10  till  dusk 

lOtiUdosk 

10  till  dusk 

Admission  If.,  on  Sat.  6<l. 

10-4,6,6 

104,5,6 

10-4,6,6 

Great  Hall  closed  12-3. 

10-1,  a-7 

10-1,  2-7 

10-1,  2-7 

10  till  dusk 

10  till  dusk 

lOtiUduBk 

Adm.  Is. 

104,5,6 

104,6,0 

104,6,6 

— 

— 

Donation  expeeted. 

104,5,6 

104,6,6 

10-4,6,6 

Mnsenm  and  Ghapel  closed  on  San. 

104,6 

104,5 

104,6 

AFrid. 

10-4,5 

10-4,5 

104,5 

104,6 

— 

104,6 

Gardens  open  daily  until  dusk. 

11-4,6 

11-4,5 

11-4,6 

104,6 

104,6 

10-4,6 

Closed  Good  Friday,  Christmas  Day. 

10(12>6 

10(12)-6 

10(12)-6 

Hothouses  open  from  1  p.m. 

11  till  dusk 

11  till  dusk 

UtiUdusk 

Adm.  Is.;  free  on  Sat. 

&-6,9.4 

8-6,94 

8-6,94 

Adm.  3d. 

10-10 

104, 5,  6 

10-10 

Adm.  6<l.  on  Wed. ;  other  days  free. 

10-6 

10-6 

106 

Some  galleries  close  at  4  or  6  p.m. 

10-5 

— 

10-10 

Closed  from  10th  Aug.  to  10th  Sept. 

10^,4.30,5, 

104,4.30,5, 

104,  4.30,  6, 

Also  on  Sat.  and  Hon.  till  8p.m.  from 

6.30,  6 

6.30,6 

6.30,6 

May  1st  to  July  15tii,  and  till  7  p.m. 
Arom  July  16tii  till  Aug.  81st. 

11-5 

11-6 

"~* 

From  March  to  Aug.  inclusive;  from 
Sept.  to  Feb.  on  application. 

10-10 

104,6 

10-10 

Adm.  Qd.  Tues.,Wed.,  Frid.;  otiier 
days  free.  Bxhib.  Gall,  always  free. 

11-4,6 

114,6 

114,6 

Adm.  6<f. 

11-4,6 

114,5 

10-4,4.80.6,6 

Adm.  6<l.  on  Thurs.  A  Frid. ;  closed 
on  Sun.  in  winter  (Kor.  to  March). 

104,4JO,6,6 

10-4,4.30,5,6 

104,4.80,6,6 

Adm.  6d.  on  Tues.  A  Wed. ;  closed 
on  Sun.  in  winter. 

104,6 

104,5 

104,5,6 

Adm.  6tf.  on  Thurs.  A  Frid. ;  closed 
on  Sun.  in  winter. 

— 

— 

10-6.30 

Tickets  gratis. 

8-7 

a-7 

8-7 

From  1st  Mon.  in  May  to  Ist  Mon. 
in  Aug.  Adm.  Is. 

9  till  doflk 

9  till  dUBk 

9  till  dusk 

From  1st  Mon.  in  Jan.  to  1st  Mon. 
in  Mar.  Adm.  Is. 

114 

114 

114 

11-4,6 

— 

— 

By  special  permission. 

9-5 

9-6 

9-6 

Crypt  Qd.;  Whispering  Gallery  6d. 

10-4 

10-4 

10-1 

104,5 

10-4,5 

10-12 

104 

104 

104,6 

Armoury  and  Crown  Jewels  6<l.  each  -, 
free  on  Mon.  A  Sat. 

104,4.80,5,6 

10-4,4.30,5,6 

104,4.30,6,6 

Adm.  6d.  on  Tues.  A  Frid.  \  closed 
on  Sun.  in  winter. 

9  till  dusk 

9  tUl  dask 

9tilldii«k 

Adm.  to  chapels  (after  10.30)  6d.  -, 
free  on  Mon.  A  Tues. 

9  till  du8k 

9  tiU  duBk 

9tillduak 

Adm.  U,;  on  Mon.  6d. 

6* 


84  21.  DISPOSITION  OF  TIME. 

his  time.  The  movement  for  the  Sunday  opening  of  museums,  gal- 
leries, and  other  large  public  collections  has  recently  made  great 
strides  in  London;  and  that  day  need  no  longer  count  as  practically 
a  dki  non  in  the  trayeller's  itinerary. 


I.  THE  CITY. 

1.  St.  Paul's  Cathedral. 

The  City,  already  noticed  in  the  Introdnction  as  the  commercial 
centre  of  London,  has  sometimes  also  been  not  unaptly  termed  its 
capital.  In  the  yery  heart  of  it,  conspicnously  situated  on  a  slight 
eminence ,  stands  London's  most  prominent  building ,  *St.  Paul's 
Cathedral  (PI.  R,  39;  ///). 

Some  authorities  maintain  that  in  pagan  times  a  temple  of  Diana 
occupied  the  site  of  St.  Panics,  bat  Sir  Christopher  Wren  rejected  this 
idea.  Still  the  spot  most  at  least  have  been  one  of  some  sanctity,  to  judge 
from  the  cinerary  urns  and  other  vessels  found  here,  and  Wren  was  of 
9pinion,  from  remains  discovered  in  digging  the  foundations  of  the  present 
edifice,  that  there  had  been  a  charch  on  this  spot  built  by  Christians  in 
the  time  of  the  Romans,  and  demolished  by  the  Pagan  Saxons.  It  is 
believe^  to  have  been  restored  by  Ethelbert,  King  of  Kent,  about  A.D. 
610.  This  building  was  burned  down  in  961 ,  and  rebuilt  within  a  year. 
It  was  again  destroyed  by  fire  in  1087,  but  a  new  edifice  was  at  once 
begun,  though  not  completed  for  about  200  years.  This  church,  Old  St. 
Paulas,  was  590  ft.  long  (30  ft.  longer  than  Winchester  Cathedral,  now  the 
longest  church  in  England),  and  in  1816  was  famished  with  a  timber  spire, 
covered  with  lead,  4B0ft.  high  according  to  Wren^s  estimate,  though  earlier 
authorities  state  it  to  have  been  520  ft.  in  height  (i.;  8  ft.  higher  than 
Cologne  Cathedral).  The  spire  was  injured  by  lightning  in  1445,  but  was 
restored,  and  it  continued  standing  till  1561,  when  it  fell  a  prey  to  the 
flames.  The  church  itself  was  damaged  by  this  fire,  and  fell  into  a  very 
dilapidated  condition.  The  8.W.  tower  was  called  the  Lollards*  Tower 
(comp.  p.  379).  Before  the  building  of  the  Lady  Chapel,  which  was  con- 
secrated in  1340,  the  choir  had  been  adjoined  by  the  charch  of  St.  Faith; 
this  name  was  afterwards  applied  to  the  erypt  beneath  the  new  choir 
(comp.  p.  93),  which  was  used  by  the  congregation  on  the  demolition 
of  their  church.  Some  scanty  remains  of  the  old  chapter-house  and  cloisters 
may  be  seen  beside  the  S.  wall  of  the  present  nave;  and  close  to  the  N.E. 
angle  of  the  choir  are  the  foundations  of  the  celebrated  Cross  of  St.  Paul 
(Powle's  Cross),  where  sermons  were  preached,  papal  bulls  promulgated, 
heretics  made  to  recant,  and  witches  to  confess,  and  where  the  Pope's  con- 
demnation of  Luther  was  proclaimed  in  the  presence  of  Wolsey.  The  cross 
and  adjacent  pulpit  were  removed  by  order  of  parliament  in  1643. 

The  subterranean  portions  of  the  half-ruined  church  were  used  as  work- 
shops and  wine-cellars.  A  theatre  was  erected  against  one  of  the  outer 
walls,  and  the  nave  was  converted  into  a  public  promenade,  the  once 
famous  PauVs  Walk.  The  Protector  Somerset  (in  the  reign  of  Edward  VI.) 
went  so  far  as  to  employ  stones  from  the  ancient  edifice  in  the  con- 
strnction  of  his  palace  (Somerset  House,  p.  169).  In  the  reign  of  Charles  I. 
an  extensive  restoration  was  undertaken,  and  a  beautiful  portico  built  by 
Inigo  Jones.  The  Civil  War,  however,  put  an  end  to  this  work.  After 
the  Restoration,  when  the  cnurch  was  about  to  be  repaired,  its  remains 
were  destroyed  by  the  Great  Fire  of  1666  (p.  123),  though  the  ruinous  nave 
was  used  for  service  until  1673.  —  Among  the  numerous  historical  remi- 
niscences attaching  to  Old  St.  Paul's,  we  may  mention  that  it  was  the 
burial-place  of  a  long  series  of  illustrious  persons,  and  the  scene  of  Wy- 
cliffe^s  citation  for  heresy  in  1337,  and  of  the  burning  of  Tyndale's  Kew 
Testament  in  1527.  —  The  farm  of  Tillingham  in  Essex  has  belonged  to 
St.  Paul's  since  the  7th  cent.,  representing  perhaps  the  most  ancient  tennr^ 
in  the  conntry. 


86  1.    ST.  PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL.         The  City. 

The  present  clmicli,  designed  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  and 
begun  in  1675,  was  opened  foi  dlyine  senice  on  Dec.  2nd,  1697, 
and  completed  in  1710.  The  greater  part  of  the  cost  of  construction, 
which  may  be  estimated  at  about  850,000{.,  was  defrayed  by  a  tax 
on  coal  entering  the  port  of  London.  Being  thus  erected  from  public 
funds,  St.  PauVs,  unlike  other  cathedrals,  is  not  vested  in  the  Dean 
and  Chapter  but  in  three  trustees,  of  whom  the  Lord  Mayor  is  one, 
the  others  being  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  and  the  Bishop  of 
London,  Sir  Christopher  Wren  receiyed  during  the  building  of  the 
cathedral  a  salary  of  2002.  a  year. 

The  church,  which  resembles  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  though  much 
smaller,  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross.  It  is  500  ft.  in  length  and 
118  ft.  broad,  and  the  transept  is  250  ft.  long.  The  inner  dome  is 
225  ft.,  the  outer,  from  the  payement  to  the  top  of  the  cross,  364  ft. 
in  height.  The  diameter  of  the  drum  beneath  the  dome  is  about 
112  ft,  of  the  dome  itself  102  ft.  (37  ft.  less  than  that  of  St.  Pe- 
ter's). In  the  original  model  the  plan  of  the  building  was  that  of 
a  Greek  cross,  haying  oyer  the  centre  a  large  dome,  supported  by 
eight  pillars ;  but  the  court  party,  which  was  fayourable  to  Roman 
Catholicism,  insisted  on  the  erection  of  the  cathedral  with  a  long 
naye  and  an  extensiye  choir,  suitable  for  the  Romish  ritual. 

The  church  is  so  hemmed  in  by  streets  and  houses  that  it  is 
difficult  to  find  a  point  of  yiew  whence  the  colossal  proportions  of 
the  building  can  be  properly  realised.  The  best  idea  of  the  ma« 
jestic  dome,  allowed  to  be  the  finest  known,  is  obtained  from  a 
distance,  e.g,  from  the  Thames  below  Blackfriars  Bridge  (view  from 
the  bridge  itself  now  somewhat  interfered  with).  St.  Paul's  is  the 
largest  church  in  Christendom  but  four,  viz,  St.  Peter's  at  Rome, 
and  the  Cathedrals  of  Milan,  Seville,  and  Florence. 

ExTEBiOK.  It  is  interesting  to  note  the  union  of  classic  details 
and  style  with  the  essentially  Gothic  structure  of  St.  Paul's.  It 
has  aisles  lower  than  the  nave  and  surmounted  by  a  triforium,  just 
as  in  regular  Gothic  churches.  But  the  triforium,  though  on  a  large 
scale,  is  not  shown  from  the  naye ;  while  the  lowness  of  the  aisles 
is  dissimulated  on  the  outside  by  mas  king-walls,  which  preserve  the 
classical  appearance  and  conceal  the  flying  buttresses.  Mr.  Somers 
Clarke,  however,  has  pointed  out  that  these  masking-walls  are  much 
more  solid  than  would  be  required  for  a  mere  screen  and  that  they 
are  of  structural  Importance  in  resisting  some  of  the  thrust  of  the 
dome.  The  West  Facade,  towards  Ludgate  Hill,  was  brought  better 
to  view  in  1873  by  the  removal  of  the  railing,  though  on  the 
three  other  sides  the  church  is  still  surrounded  by  high  and  heavy 
railings.  In  front  of  this  facade  rises  a  Statue  of  Queen  An,ne^ 
with  England,  France,  Ireland,  and  America  at  her  feet;  the 
present  statue,  erected  in  1886,  is  a  replica  of  the  original  by 
Bird  (1712).  An  inscription  in  the  pavement,  at  the  foot  of  the 
flight  of  .22  marble  steps   ascending  to  the  portals,  records  that 


The  City.         1.  BT.  PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL.  87 

Queen  Yictoria  here  retnmed  thanks  in  1897 ,  on  the  sixtieth  an- 
niyeisary  of  her  accession  to  the  throne.  The  facade,  180  ft.  in 
hieadth,  presents  a  donhle  portico,  the  lower  part  of  which  con- 
sists of  12  conpled  Corinthian  columns,  50  ft  high,  and  the  npper 
of  8  Composite  columns,  40  ft.  high.  On  the  apex  of  the  pediment 
above  the  second  row  of  columns,  which  contains  a  relief  of  the 
Oonrersion  of  St.  Paul  by  Birdj  rises  a  statue  of  St.  Paul  15  ft. 
in  height,  with  St.  Peter  and  St.  James  on  his  right  and  left.  On 
each  side  of  the  facade  is  a  eampaniU  tower,  222  ft.  in  height, 
with  statues  of  the  four  Eyangelists  at  the  angles.  The  one  on  the 
N.  side  contains  a  fine  peal  of  12  bells,  hung  in  1878,  and  the 
other  contains  the  largest  bell  in  England  ('Great  Paul*),  hung  in 
1882  and  weighing  more  than  16  tons.  Each  arm  of  the  transept 
is  terminated  by  a  semicircular  portico,  crowned  with  flye  statues 
of  the  Apostles,  by  Bird  (those  on  the  S.  are  copies  erected  in 
1900).  Oyer  the  S.  portico  is  a  phosnix,  with  the  inscription  'Re- 
surgam',  by  Cibber ;  oyer  the  N.  portico,  the  royal  arms.  In  reference 
to  the  former  it  is  related,  that,  when  the  position  and  dimensions 
of  the  great  dome  had  been  marked  out,  a  labourer  was  ordered  to 
bring  a  stone  from  the  rubbish  of  the  old  cathedral  to  be  placed 
as  a  guide  to  the  masons.  The  stone  which  he  happened  to  bring 
was  a  piece  of  a  grayestone  with  nothing  of  the  inscription  remain- 
ing saye  the  one  word  ^Resurgam'  (^I  shall  rise  again')  in  large 
letters.  At  the  E.  end  the  church  terminates  in  a  circular  projection 
or  apse.  The  balustrade,  about  9  ft.  high,  on  the  top  of  the  N.  and 
S.  walls  was  erected  contrary  to  the  wishes  of  Wren,  and  is  con- 
sidered by  modem  architects  a  mistake.  A  drum  in  two  sections, 
the  lower  embellished  with  Corinthian,  the  upper  with  Composite 
columns,  bears  the  finely-proportioned  double  Dome^  the  outer  part 
of  which  consists  of  wood  ooyered  with  lead.  The  Lantern  aboye  it 
is  supported  by  a  hollow  cone  of  brickwork  resting  upon  the  inner 
dome.  The  ball  and  cross  surmounting  the  lantern  were  placed  by 
Cookerell  in  1821  to  supersede  the  originals  by  Francis  Bird.  The 
ball  is  6  ft.  in  diameter,  and  can  hold  seyeral  persons  at  once. 

The  church  is  open  daily  from  9  a.xn.  to  5  p.m.  The  usual  Entbances 
are  on  the  W.  and  N.  The  monuments  in  the  nave  and  transepts  may  be 
inspected,  free  of  charge,  at  any  time,  except  during  divine  service, 
which  takes  place  daily  at  10  a.m.  (choral)  and  4  p.m.  (choral)  in  the 
choir,  and  on  Sundays  at  8  a.m.,  iO.SO  a.m.  (fine  music),  3.15  p.m.,  and 
7  p.m.  On  week-days  Holy  Communion  is  celebrated  at  8  a.m.  and  a 
short  sermon  preached  at  1.16  p.m.  in  St.  Dunstan's  chapel.  The  choir  is 
open  to  visitors  (free)  between  11  and  3.30  and  after  evening-service,  the 
entrance  being  by  the  gate  of  the  S.  ambulatory.  Tickets  admitting  to 
the  Library,  the  Whispering  Gallery,  and  the  Stone  Gallery  (6d.)  and  to 
the  *Crypt  and  Vaults  (6d.)  are  obtained  in  the  S.  transept.  Tickets  ad- 
mitting to  the  Golden  Gallery  (Is.)  and  to  the  Ball  (1«.)  are  obtained  from 
the  keeper  in  the  Stone  Gallery.  —  The  church  has  been  lighted  by  elec- 
tricity since  Easter,  1903. 

The  Intekiob  is  imposing  from  the  beauty  and  yastness  of  its 
proportions,  but  strikes  one  as  somewhat  bare.    Though  it  is  eyi^ 


88  1.    ST.  PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL.         The  CUy, 

dent  from  the  care  with  irhioh  the  caryed  stone  enrichments  are 
executed  that  Wren  did  not  contemplate  decorating  the  entire  in- 
terior in  the  rich  style  of  the  Italian  churches  of  the  day,  it  is  prob- 
able that  he  intended  some  portions  to  be  adorned  in  colour.  But 
with  the  exception  of  Thomhill's  grisailles  (see  below),  practically 
nothing  was  done  in  this  direction  until  about  1860,  when  a  Decor- 
ation Completion  Fund  was  founded,  mainly  through  the  exertions 
of  Dean  Milman  (p.  89),  for  the  embellishment  of  the  interior 
with  marble,  gilding,  mosaics,  and  stained  glass.  The  decoration  of 
the  dome  was  practically  completed  in  1863-94,  that  of  the  choir  (see 
p.  90)  in  1891-97.  The  dome  is  adorned  with  eight  scenes  from  the 
life  of  St.  Paul  in  grisaille  by  ThorhhiUj  restored  in  1864,  but  hardly 
visible  from  below  (see  p.  92).  In  the  niches  aboye  the  Whisper- 
ing Gallery  are  marble  statues  of  the  Fathers  of  the  Church.  The 
eight  large  mosaics  in  the  spandrels  of  the  dome,  executed  by  Sal- 
viatij  represent  St.  Matthew  and  St.  John,  designed  by  0.  F,  WatUy 
St.  Mark  and  St.  Luke,  by  Brittany  and  Isaiah,  Jeremiah,  Ezeklel, 
and  Daniel,  by  A.  Stevent.  On  the  lower  quarter-domes  at  the  shorter 
sides  of  the  octagon  supporting  the  dome  are  mosaics  by  Bichmond 
(comp.  p.  90):  N.E.  the  Crucifixion;  N.W.  the  Ascension ;  S.W. 
the  Entombment;  S.E.  the  Resurrection.  On  the  last  piers  in  the 
naye  hang  two  allegorical  paintings  (PI.  12)  by  0,  F.  Watts:  *Time, 
Death,  and  Judgment',  on  the  N.  side,  ^Peace  and  Goodwiir  on  the 
S.  side.  The  ^Light  of  the  Worlds  by  Holman  Hunt,  also  is  to  be 
hung  in  St.  Paul's.  —  The  Organ,  one  of  the  finest  in  Great  Britain, 
is  divided  into  two  parts,  one  on  each  side  of  the  choir,  with  connect- 
ing mechanism  under  the  choir  flooring.  The  builder,  JB.  WtUts,  in 
constructing  it,  used  some  of  the  pipes  of  the  old  organ  by  Father 
Smith  or  SchmitZy  which  dated  back  to  1694.  —  Above  the  N.  door 
is  a  copy  of  the  celebrated  inscription  (PL  13)  in  memory  of  Sir 
Christopher  Wren  (original,  see  p.  93). 

The  numerous  monuments  of  celebrated  Englishmen  (chiefly 
naval  and  military  officers),  which  make  the  church  a  kind  of 
national  Temple  of  Fame  (though  second  to  Westminster  Abbey, 
p.  225),  are'  very  rarely  of  artistic  value. 

The  Grand  Entbancb  (W.)  is  a  favourable  point  for  a  survey  of 
the  whole  length  of  the  nave.  The  N.W.  or  St,  Dunstan's  Chapel,  to 
the  left,  is  handsomely  decorated  with  marble.  The  mosaic,  repre- 
senting the  Three  Maries  at  the  Sepulchre  on  Easter  Morn,  was 
executed  by  Salviatij  and  commemorates  Archdeacon  Hale.  The 
stained-glass  window  is  a  memorial  of  Dean  Mansel  (1868-71). 
Then  to  the  left,  in  the  N.  Aislb  :  — 

L.  Lord  Leighton  (PI.  8;  1830-96),  7th  President  of  the  Royal 
Academy }  bronze  recumbent  figure  upon  a  sarcophagus-tomb,  by 
Brock;  unveiled  in  1902.  —  Behind  is  the  Crimean  Cavalry  Mon- 
ument, in  memory  of  the  officers  and  men  of  the  British  cavalry 
who  fell  in  the  Crimean  war  (1854-56). 


ifl  «0 1«  eo  d>  S  ;j  ^]  cj 


The  City,         1.    ST.  PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL.  89 

L.  MaJoT'Oeneral  Sir  Hirherl  Stewart ,  who  died  in  1886  of 
wounds  receiyed  at  the  battle  of  Abu-kra,  in  the  Sudan ;  bronze 
medallion  and  reliefs  by  Boehm. 

L.  MajOT'Oeneral  Charles  Oeorge  Gordon  (PI.  5),  killed  at  Khar- 
toum in  1885;  sarcophagus-tomb,  with  bronze  efflgy  by  Boehm, 

B. ,  beneath  the  central  arch  of  the  aisle :  *Monnment  to  the  Dukt 
of  Wellifhgton  (d.  1862),  by  Stevens.  The  bronze  figure  of  Wellington 
rests  on  a  lofty  sarcophagus,  overshadowed  by  a  rich  marble  canopy, 
with  12  Corinthian  columns.  AboTO  are  colossal  groups  of  Valour 
and  Cowardice,  Truth  and  Falsehood.  The  monument  is  crowned  by 
an  equestrian  efflgy  in  accordance  with  Stevens's  original  design. 

L.  William,  Lord  Melbourne  (d.  1848),  and  IVederick,  Lord 
Melbourne  (d,  1853),  by  Marochetti. 

In  the  N.  Tsamsbpt  :  — 

L.  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds  (PI.  11 ;  d.  1792),  the  celebrated  painter, 
statue  by  Flaxman.  Upon  the  truncated  column  to  his  left  is  a  me- 
dallion portrait  of  Michael  Angelo. 

L.  Admiral  Lord  Rodney  (d.  1792),  by  Rossi.  At  his  feet  is 
History  listening  to  the  Goddess  of  Fame  (on  the  right),  who  re- 
counts the  Admiral's  exploits. 

L.  Lieutenant'Oeneral  Sir  Thomas  Picton  (killed  at  Waterloo 
in  1815),  by  Oahagan.  In  front  of  his  bust  is  a  Goddess  of  Victory 
presenting  a  crown  of  laurels  to  a  warrior ,  upon  whose  shoulder 
leans  the  Genius  of  Immortality. 

R.  Admiral  Earl  St.  Vir^cent  (d.  1823),  the  victor  at  Cape  St. 
Vincent;  statue  by  Baily. 

L.  General  WiUiam  Francis  Patrick  Napier  (d.  1860),  the  his- 
torian of  the  Peninsular  War,  by  Baily. 

L.  Sir  Charles  James  Napier  (d.  1853) ;  statue  by  Adams ,  *a 
prescient  General,  a  beneficent  Governor,  a  justMan'(comp.  p.  163). 

R.  Admiral  Lord  Duncan  (d.  1804),  who  defeated  the  Dutch 
in  the  naval  battle  of  Camperdown ;  statue  by  Westmaeott. 

L.  General  Sir  WiUiam  Ponsoriby  (d.  1815) ,  *who  fell  glor- 
iously in  the  battle  of  Waterloo',  by  Baily. 

L.  Admniral  Charles  Napier  (d.  1860),  commander  of  the  Eng- 
lish Baltic  fleet  in  1854,  with  portrait  in  relief,  by  Adams. 

L.  Henry  HaUam  (d.  1859),  the  historian ;  statue  by  Theed. 

B.  Sir  Arthur  Sullivan  (d.  1900),  bronze  relief  by  W.  Goscombe 
John. 

L.  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson  (PI.  7j  d.  1784),  statue  by  Bacon. 

We  have  now  arrived  at  the  Chois  (adm.,  see  p.  87),  the  en- 
trance to  which,  however,  is  on  the  other  side,  beyond  the  hand- 
some pulpit  of  coloured  marbles,  erected  in  memory  of  Captain 
Fittgerald.   In  the  S.  Amhilcttory  are  the  following  monuments :  — 

Henry  Hart  Milman,  Dean  of  St.  Paul's  (d.  1868) ;  sarcophagus 
and  recumbent  figure,  by  Williamson.  —  On  the  wall  at  each  end 
of  this  monument  are  fragments  of  stone  believed  to  have  belonged 


90  1.  ST.  PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL.         The  City. 

to  the  Temple  at  Jerasalem.  — ^Archbishop  Temple  (6..  1903)|  bronze 
relief  by  Pomeroy, 

Opposite,  Mandell  Creightonj  Bishop  of  London  (d.  1901),  bronze 
statue  by  H.  Thomycroft, 

Dr.  Donnty  the  poet,  Dean  of  St.  Paul's  from  1621  till  his  death 
in  1631,  a  scnlptared  fi^re  in  a  shrond,  in  a  niche  in  the  wall,  by 
NiehoUu  Stone  (the  only  uninjured  monument  from  old  St.  PauVs). 

Charles  J,  Blomfieldy  Bishop  of  London  (d.  1857) ;  saroophagus 
with  recumbent  figure,  by  O.  Richmond, 

John  Jackson^  Bishop  of  London  (d.  1884) ;  by  Woolner, 

Reginald  Heher,  BishoD  of  Calcutta  (d.  1826),  by  Chantrey.  The 
relief  represents  the  prelate  confirming  converted  Indians. 

The  Aps«,  behind  the  reredos,  is  fitted  up  as  the  Jesus  Chapel; 
the  altar-piece,  in  a  marble  frame,'  is  a  copy  of  the  Christ  appearing 
to  St.  Thomas,  by  Cima  da  Conegliano,  in  the  National  Gallery 
(p.  177).  To  the  right  is  the  recumbent  marble  statue  of  Canon 
Liddon  (PI.  9;  d.  1890),  by  BodUy  ^  Oamer, 

The  Reredos,  behind  the  main  altar,  is  an  elaborate  white  Parian 
marble  structure  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style,  designed  by 
Messrs,  BodUy  ^  Gamer  and  unveiled  in  1888.  The  sculptures,  by 
Guellemin,  represent  the  chief  events  in  the  life  of  Christ ;  at  the 
top  are  statues  of  the  Risen  Saviour,  the  Virgin  and  Child,  St.  Paul, 
and  St.  Peter.  The  two  massive  latten  candlesticks  (PI.  4)  before 
the  altar  are  copied  from  four  old  ones  now  in  St.  Bavon's,  Ghent 
(see  Baedeker's  Belgium  and  HoUand[).  The  latter  were  executed 
by  Bendetto  da  Rovezzano  as  decorations  for  the  unfinished  tomb 
of  Henry  VIII.  at  Windsor  and  were  sold  under  the  Commonwealth. 
The  Choir  Stalls  are  by  Orinling  Oibbons,  and  some  of  the  iron  work 
by  Tijou  (p.  410). 

The  vaalting  and  walls  of  the  choir  have  been  decorated  in  glass 
(smalto)  mosaic  from  designs  by  Sir  W.  B.  Richmond.  On  the  central  panel  on 
the  roof  of  the  apse  is  Christ  enthroned  \  to  the  right  and  left  are  Recording 
Angels.  On  the  panels  below  the  stone  ribs  of  the  roof  in  the  apse  and 
the  adjoining  bay  are  six  figures  of  Virtues,  vu.  (beginning  to  the  N.), 
Hope,  Fortitude,  Charity,  Truth,  Chastity,  and  Justice.  The  upper  windows 
of  the  apse  represent  the  Four  and  Twenty  Elders  of  the  Revelation,  with 
angels.  In  the  adjoining  bay  are  panels  with  Noah's  Sacrifice  (S.)  and 
Helchizedek  blessing  Abraham  (N.)^  the  larger  panels  above  these  re- 
present the  Sea  giving  up  its  Dead.  —  In  the  choir  proper  the  chief  features 
of  the  mosaic  decoration  are  the  saucer-domes  above  each  of  the  three 
bays.  That  in  the  easternmost  bay  represents  the  Creation  of  the  Birds, 
while  the  subjects  of  the  other  two  are  the  Creation  of  the  Fishes  and  the 
Creation  of  the  Beasts.  On  the  four  pendentives  in  each  bay  are  Herald 
Angels,  with  extended  arms.  In  the  spaces  between  the  clerestory  windows 
on  the  If.  side  are  the  Delphic  and  Persian  Sibyls,  Alexander  the  Great, 
Cyrus,  Abraham  and  the  Angels,  and  Job  and  his  three  Friends  j  on  the 
S.  side  are  David,  Solomon,  Aholiab,  Besaleel,  Moses,  and  Jacob.  On  the 
spandrels  of  the  arches  of  the  E.  bay  are  Angels  with  the  Instruments  of 
the  Passion ;  on  the  spandrels  of  the  central  bay,  the  Temptation  (S.)  and 
the  Annunciation  (N.);  on  the  spandrels  of  the  W.  bay.  Expulsion  from 
Paradise  (S.)  and  Creation  of  the  Firmament  (N.).  The  rectangular  panels 
above  the  organ  represent  Adam  and  Eve  in  the  Garden  of  Eden.  The 
clerestory  windows  also  were  desig^ed  by  Sir  W.  B.  Richmond. 


The  CUy.         1.    ST.  PAUL'S  CATHBDBAL.  91 

The  mosaics  are  executed  in  the  style  of  the  early  mosaicists,  and  not 
after  the  smooth  modem  method.  Their  general  effect  certainly  adds 
largely  to  the  richness  and  warmth  of  the  choir;  but  comparatiTely  few  of 
thdr  details  can  be  satisfactorily  distinguished  from  below  under  ordinary 
conditions  of  light.  The  glass  tesserss  were  furnished  by  Mutn.  Fneell 
of  Whitefriars,  and  the  whole  work  was  executed  by  British  workmen. 

LeaTing  the  passage  round  the  choir,  we  tarn  to  the  left.  Close 
by  is  the  entrance  to  the  Crypt  (see  p.  93).   Then  *— 

In  the  S.  T&ANSBPT :  — 

L.  John  Howard  (PI.  6;  d.  1790),  the  philanthropist;  statne  by 
Bacon,  Howard  died  at  Cherson  in  the  S.  of  Russia ,  while  on  a 
journey  undertaken  ^to  ascertain  the  cause  of  and  find  an  efficacious 
remedy  for  the  plague'.  This  monument  was  the  first  admitted  to 
new  St.  Paul's. 

L.  Admiral  Earl  Howe  (d.  1799),  by  Flaxman.  Behind  the 
statue  of  the  hero  is  Britannia  in  armour ;  to  the  left  Fame  and 
Victory ;  on  the  right  reposes  the  British  lion.  —  Adjoining  — 

L.  Admiral  Lord  CoUingwood  (d.  1810),  Nelson's  companion 
In  arms  (p.  94),  by  Westmaeott. 

L.  Joseph  MaUord  WiUiam  Turner  (d.  1851),  the  celebrated 
painter ;  statue  by  MaedoweU. 

Opposite  the  door  of  the  S.  transept,  in  the  passage  to  the  naye, 
against  the  great  piers :  — 

L.  *Admiral  Lord  Nelson  (d.  1805),  by  Flaxman.  The  want 
of  the  right  arm ,  which  Nelson  lost  at  Cadiz,  is  concealed  by  the 
cloak ;  the  left  hand  leans  upon  an  anchor  supported  on  a  coiled-up 
cable.  The  cornice  bears  the  inscription  ^Copenhagen  —  Nile  — 
Trafalgar',  the  names  of  the  Admiral's  chief  victories.  The  pedestal 
is  embellished  with  figures  in  relief  representing  the  German 
Ocean,  the  Baltic  Sea,  the  Nile,  and  the  Mediterranean.  At  the  foot, 
to  the  right,  couches  the  British  lion ;  while  on  the  left  is  Britannia 
inciting  youthful  sailors  to  emulate  the  great  hero. 

R.  Marquis  Comwallis  (d.  1805),  first  Goyernor-Qeneral  of 
India,  in  the  dress  of  a  knight  of  the  Garter ;  at  the  base,  to  the  left, 
Britannia  armed,  to  the  right  two  fine  Indian  river-gods,  by  Rossi. 

The  W.  portion  of  the  S.  transept  is  now  used  as  the  Baptistery, 
and  contains  the  font.  —  To  the  W.  of  the  door :  — 

L.  Bronze  memorial  to  the  colonial  troops  who  fell  in  the  South 
African  War  (1899-1902),  by  Princess  Louise,  Duchess  of  ArgyU. 

L.  Lieutenant'Oeneral  Sir  John  Moore  (d.  1809),  by  the  younger 
Bacon.  The  general ,  who  fell  at  Corunna ,  is  being  interred  by 
allegorical  figures  of  Valour  and  Victory,  while  the  Genius  of  Spain 
erects  his  standard  over  the  tomb. 

L.  Sir  AsUey  Paston  Cooper  (d.  1842) ,  the  surgeon,  by  Baily. 

L.  Lieutenant- Oeneral  Sir  Ralph  Abercromhy  (d.  1801),  by 
Westmaeott,  The  general,  mortally  wounded  at  the  battle  of  Aboukir, 
falls  from  his  rearing  horse  into  the  arms  of  a  Highland  soldier. 

L.  Sir  William  Jones  (d.  1794),  the  orientalist,  who,  in  Dean 


92  1.    ST.  PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL.  I7mj  City. 

Milman's  words,  first  opened  ^the  poetry  and  wisdom  of  our  Indian 
Empire  to  wondering  Enrope' ;  statne  by  Bacon. 

In  the  S.  AisLB  :  — 

L.  Thomas  Fanshaw  Middleton  (d.  1822),  the  first  English 
bishop  in  India,  by  Lough,  The  prelate  is  represented  in  his  robes, 
in  the  act  of  blessing  two  young  heathen  conyerts.  —  The  bas-re- 
liefs by  Colder  Marshall  and  Woodington,  in  this  and  the  following 
recesses,  originally  embellished  the  S.W.  chapel  (see  below),  in 
which  the  Wellington  Monument  (p.  89)  was  at  first  erected. 

The  chapel  at  the  S.W.  end  of  the  nave,  once  the  diocesan  con- 
sistorial  court  and  afterwards  the  baptistery,  has  since  1906  been 
redecorated  and  used  as  the  Chapel  of  the  Order  of  SS.  Michael  and 
Oeorge,  an  order  (founded  in  1861 ;  enlarged  in  1868)  specially  as- 
sociated with  the  colonial  empire.  Above  the  Burmese  teak  stalls  of 
the  Knights  Grand  Cross  are  displayed  their  banners.  The  King's 
stall  is  in  the  centre  of  the  W.  end. 

The  wooden  screen  between  the  chapel  and  the  naye  was  carved 
by  Orinling  Oibbons. 

At  the  end  of  the  nave  is  the  Crimean  Monumentj  to  the  memory 
of  the  officers  of  the  Coldstream  Guards  who  fell  at  Inkerman  in  1854, 
a  relief  by  Maroehetti^  with  the  colours  of  the  regiment  hung  above. 
Another  relief,  opposite,  by  W.  Goscomhe  John^  commemorates  the 
officers  and  men  of  the  same  regiment  who  fell  in  South  Africa  in 
1899-1902. 

In  the  S.  aisle,  near  the  S.  transept,  is  the  entrance  to  the  Uppbk 
Pasts  of  the  church  (admission,  see  p.  87).  Ascending  about  110 
shallow  steps,  we  reach  a  gallery  (the  triforium  of  the  S.  aisle),  in 
which  are  carved  fragments  of  old  St.  Paul's,  some  18th  cent,  leaden 
cisterns,  and  designs  for  mosaic  adornments  by  Poynter  and  Leigh- 
ton.  A  room  at  the  end  contains  the  Library  (12,000  volumes; 
portrait  of  the  founder.  Bishop  Compton;  autographs  of  Wren,  Laud, 
Cranmer,  etc.).  The  flooring  consists  of  artistically  executed  mosaic 
in  wood. 

The  large,  self-supporting,  winding  staircase,  called  the  Oeometrical 
Siairccue  or  Dean"*  Staircase^  which  ascends  in  the  S.W.  tower  to  the  library, 
is  interesting  only  on  account  of  its  age.  This  staircase,  the  Oreai  Bell 
(cast  in  1716;  88  steps),  and  the  large  Clock  (constructed  in  1703;  13  steps 
more),  in  the  S.W.  tower,  are  now  not  shown  without  special  permission. 
The  minute  hand  of  the  clock  is  nearly  10  ft.  long. 

Returning  to  the  beginning  of  the  gallery,  we  ascend  to  the 
Whispering  GaUery^  in  the  interior  of  the  cupola  (260  steps  from 
the  floor  of  the  church),  which  is  remarkable  for  a  curious  echo. 
A  slight  whisper  uttered  by  the  wall  on  one  side  of  the  gallery  is 
distinctly  audible  to  an  ear  near  the  wall  on  the  other  side,  a  dis- 
tance of  108  ft.  in  a  direct  line,  or  160  ft.  round  the  semicircle. 
This  is  the  best  point  of  view  for  Thornhiirs  ceiling-paintings,  and 
from  it  we  also  obtain  a  fine  survey  of  the  interior  of  the  church. 

The  subjects  of  Thornhiirs  paintings  are  as  follows:  —  1.  Conversion 
of  St.  Paul;  2.  Elymas  the  sorcerer^  3.  St.  Paul  atLystraj  4.  The  Gaoler 


The  City.  1.  ST.  PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL.  93 

at  Philippi;  5.  St.  Paul  preaching  at  Athens ;  6.  Books  of  magic  burned 
at  Ephesus;  7.  St.  Paul  before  Agrippa;  8.  Shipwreck  at  Malta. 

From  this  point  a  flight  of  118  steps  leads  to  tlie  *8tone  Qcd- 
Uryy  an  outer  gallery,  enclosed  by  a  stone  parapet,  wMch  rnns 
round  the  foot  of  the  outer  dome.  This  gallery  commands  an  ad- 
mirable view  of  the  city.  The  survey  is  still  more  extensive  from 
the  outer  Oolden  QalUry  above  the  dome  and  at  the  foot  of  the  lan- 
tern, to  which  a  winding  staircase  ascends  in  the  inside  of  the  roof. 
The  Ball  (adm.,  see  p.  87)  on  the  lantern  is  45  ft.  higher  (616  steps 
from  the  tesselated  pavement  of  the  church). 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  S.  transept  is  the  door  (PI.  b)  leading 
down  into  the  •Obtpt,  which  extends  under  the  entire  church.  At 
the  foot  of  the  staircase  are  busts  of  Sir  John  Macdonald  (1815-91), 
premier  of  Canada,  and  Sir  Harry  Parkes  (d.  1885).  Straight  in  front 
is  the  S.  choir-aisle,  in  the  last  window-recess  of  which  is  the  plain, 
flat,  tombstone  of  Sir  Christopher  Wrer^,  the  architect  of  St.  Paul's 
(d.  1723).  On  the  wall  above  is  the  original  tablet  with  the  in- 
scription containing  the  celebrated  words  ^Lector,  H  monumentum 
requiris,  circumspice\  This  tablet  formerly  stood  at  the  entrance  to 
the  choir,  in  the  upper  church.  On  the  walls  near  Wren's  tomb 
are  memorials  to  Sir  Edwin  Landaeer,  Randolph  CcUdecott ,  Frank 
HoU,  and  Archibald  Forbes.  In  the  flooring  are  the  memorial  slabs 
of  many  celebrated  artists,  which  have  earned  the  name  of  Painters' 
Comer'  for  this  part  of  the  crypt.  Among  these  are  Benjamin 
West;  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds;  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence;  John  Opie; 
J.  3f.  W.  Turner  (buried,  at  his  own  dying  request,  near  Rey- 
nolds); Sir  Edgar  Boehm;  Lord  Leighton;  and  Sir  John  Millais, 
John  Rennie,  builder  of  Waterloo  Bridge ;  Robert  Milne,  who  built 
several  other  London  bridges ;  Dean  Newton,  William  Babington, 
Sir  Asiley  Cooper,  and  Sir  WUliam  Jones  also  repose  here.  Canon 
Liddon,  Dean  Milman,  Bishop  Creighton,  and  Sir  Arthur  Sullivan 
(d.  1900)  are  buried  farther  to  the  N.E.  —  The  E.  end  of  the  crypt, 
used  for  occasional  services  (Church  of  St.  Faith ;  p.  85),  contains 
a  few  mutilated  monuments  from  the  earlier  building  (t.e.  prior  to 
1666).  The  window  above  the  altar  is  a  copy  of  Reynolds's  window 
at  New  College,  Oxford  (see  Baedeker's  Great  Britain").  The  fine 
mosaic  pavement,  like  that  in  other  parts  of  the  crypt,  was  executed 
by  female  convicts  from  Woking.  —  The  W.  portion  of  the  crypt 
is  usually  shown  by  an  attendant  (no  fee).  Beneath  the  chancel- 
arch  stands  the  sarcophagus  of  Wellington  (d.  1852),  consisting  of 
a  huge  block  of  porphyry ,  resting  on  a  granite  base.  Adjacent  is 
the  sarcophagus  of  Sir  Thomas  Picton  (see  p.  89),  who  fell  at 
Waterloo  in  1815.  Farther  on,  exactly  under  the  centre  of  the 
dome,  is  the  black  marble  sarcophagus  of  Nelson  (d.  21st  Oct., 
1805),  containing  an  inner  coffln  made  of  part  of  the  mainmast  of 
the  French  flag-ship  L'Orient,  which  was  blown  up  at  Aboukir. 
This  sarcophagus,  the  work  of  Bendetto  daRovezzano,  was  originally 


94  1.  ST.  PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL.  The  City. 

oidered  by  Card.  Wolsey  for  himself  (comp.  p.  405).  The  smaller 
saroophagQS  on  the  S.  is  that  of  Nelson's  comrade,  Admiral  Colling^ 
wood  (d.  1810),  while  on  the  N.  is  that  of  the  Earl  ofNorthesk 
(d.  1831).  To  the  S.W.  is  the  tomb  of  Lord  Napier  of  Magdaia 
fd.  1890).  On  the  walls,  a  little  farther  on,  are  memoiials  to  the 
Rt  Hon,  William  Dalley  (d.  1888),  Attorney  General  of  New  South 
Wales;  Sir  BartU  Frere  (d.  1884);  George  Cruikihank  (d.  1878); 
W.  E.  Henley  (d.  1903);  Sir  George  Grey;  Charles Reade  (d.  1884), 
and  Sir  Waller  Besant  (d.  1901).  —  At  the  extreme  W.  end  of  the 
crypt  is  the  car  nsed  at  the  Duke  of  Wellington's  fnneral.  It  was 
cast  from  guns  captured  in  the  Tictories  of  the  *Iron  Duke'. 

In  May  an  annual  festiyal  is  held  in  St.  Paul's  for  the  beneflt 
of  the  sons  of  deceased  clergymen.  Adm.  by  tickets,  procured  at  the 
Corporation  House,  2  Bloomsbury  Place,  Bloomsbury  Square,  W.O. 
On  St.  Paul's  Day  (Jan.  25th)  a  selection  from  Mendelssohn's  *St. 
Paul*  is  performed  with  orchestra  and  choir;  and  Bach's  Passion 
Music  is  given  on  the  Tuesday  of  Holy  Week. 

The  clerical  establishment  of  the  cathedral  consists  of  the  Dean, 
four  Canons,  30  Prebendaries,  12  Minor  Canons,  and  6  Vicars  Choral. 
Sydney  Smith  and£.  H.  Barham,  author  of  the  *Ingoldsby  Legends*, 
were  canons  of  St.  Paul's.  —  For  a  full  account  of  this  noble  church, 
see  Dean  Mllman's  'Annals  of  St.  Paul's'  (1868),  W.  Longman's 
*The  Three  Cathedrals  dedicated  to  St.  Paul'  (1878),  and  works  by 
Dr.  W.  Sparrow  Simpson. 

The  street  round  the  cathedral,  called  St,  Pauts  Churchyard^ 
was  in  the  16th  cent,  open  to  Paternoster  Row,  with  a  few  inter- 
yening  buildings,  all  belonging  to  the  precincts.  These  disappeared 
in  the  Great  Fire. 

Dean's  Yard,  near  the  S.W.  oomer  of  the  cathedral,  leads  to  the 
S.,  past  the  Deanery,  to  the  Choir  House,  with  a  choristers'  school, 
in  Great  Carter  Lane.  A  tablet  on  the  W.  wall  of  the  archway  lead- 
ing from  Carter  Lane  into  Bell  Yard  commemorates  Shakspeare's 
association  with  the  Bell  Tavern,  formerly  on  this  site.  On  the  E., 
to  the  N.  of  Knightrider  Street,  is  the  district  still  known  as  DoctoriT 
CommoThs,  though  the  old-fashioned  ecclesiastical  and  nautical 
tribunals,  described  in  *David  CopperAeld',  have  been  removed  to 
the  Law  Courts  (p.  155)  and  the  buildings  demolished  in  1862-67. 
The  Will  Office  is  now  at  Somerset  House  (p.  159),  though  marriage- 
licenses  are  still  issued  here. 

Celebrated  coffee-houses  in  the  Churchyard,  where  authors  and  book- 
sellers used  to  meet,  were  St.  Paul's  Coffee  House,  near  the  archway  lead- 
ing to  Doctors'  Commons;  Child*s  Coffee  House,  a  great  resort  of  the  clergy 
and  literati;  and  the  Queen^s  Arms  Tavern,  often  visited  by  Dr.  Johnson. 
Among  the  famous  eighteenth  century  publishers  of  St.  Paul's  Churchyard 
may  be  mentioned  Johnson,  Hunter,  and  Eivlngton.  At  the  comer  next 
Ludgate  Hill  is  the  site  of  the  shop  (rebuilt  in  1885)  of  John  Newbery,  the 
bookseller,  immortalized  by  Ooldsmlth,  Johnson,  and  W.  Irving.  Newbery 
was  the  first  publisher  to  issue  books  for  children,  and  Goldsmith  ia  said 
to  have  written  ^Goody  Two  Shoes'  for  him,  as  well  as  to  have  shared  in 
the  preparation  of  the  original  ^Rhymes  of  Mother  Goose'. 


95 


2.  General  Post  Office.    St.  Giles.  Holborn. 

Paternoster  Row,  PeeVa  Statue,  Cethtral  Criminal  Court,  8t.  Se^ 
puUhre't, 

LeaTing  8t,  Paul's  Churchyard^  on  the  N.  side  of  the  chtiTeh, 
we  enter  Fatemoeter  Bow  (so  called  from  the  prayer-hooks  or 
rosaries  formerly  sold  in  it),  long  the  chief  seat  of  the  pnhlishers 
and  booksellers.  To  the  W.,  in  Stationers'  Hall  Gonrt,  off  Lndgate 
Hill,  is  situated  Stationers'  Hall,  the  gnlldhonse  of  the  booksellers 
and  stationers. 

This  company  is  one  of  the  few  London  guilds  the  majority  of  whose 
members  actaally  practise  their  nominal  craft  The  society  lost  its  mon- 
opoly of  publishing  almanacks  in  1771,  but  still  carries  on  this  business 
extensively.  The  company  distinguished  itself  in  1631  by  printing  a  Bible 
with  the  word  'noV  omitted  from  the  seventh  commandment.  Every  work 
published  in  Qreat  Britain  tnust  be  registered  at  Stationers'  Hall  to  secure 
the  copyright.  The  registers  go  back  to  1667.  The  hall  contains  por- 
traits of  Richardson,  the  novelist  (Master  of  the  Company  in  1764),  and 
his  wife,  Prior,  Steele.  Bunyan,  and  others ;  also  Wisfs  painting  of  King 
Alfred  sharing  his  loat  with  the  pilgrim  St.  Guthbert,  and  a  stained-glass 
window  in  memory  of  Cazton,  placed  here  in  1894. 

At  the  E.  end  of  Paternoster  Bow,  at  the  entrance  to  Cheapside 
(p.  106),  rises  the  Statue  of  Sir  Bobert  Feel  (d.  1850),  by  Behnes, 

In  St.  Martin's  le  Grand,  which  rnns  hence  to  the  K. ,  are  the 
buildings  of  the  Ctoneral  Post  Office.  Immediately  to  the  K.,  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  street,  Is  the  Gbnbbal  Post  Offiob  East  (PI.  R,  39, 
and  III;  comp.  p.  39),  built  in  the  Ionic  style  in  1825-29,  from 
designs  by  Smirke,  In  this  building,  390  ft.  in  length,  all  the  ordi- 
nary business  of  a  post- office  is  carried  on,  and  correspondence 
received  for  London  and  abroad  is  sorted  and  dispatched.  The 
public  Telegraph  Office  also  is  in  this  building.  Parcels  are  received 
here ,  but  are  at  once  sent  on  to  the  Parcel  Post  Office  at  Mount 
Pleasant,  Farringdon  Road  (p.  152).  To  the  S.  of  the  portico  is 
the  ^Poste  BestarUe^  Office,  This  is  the  headquarters  of  the  London 
Postal  District,  and  the  vast  Oity  correspondence  is  all  dealt  with 
here ,  while  the  provincial  correspondence  is  dealt  with  at  Mount 
Pleasant  The  Returned  Letter  Office  is  at  Mt.  Pleasant,  where 
boards  are  exhibited  with  lists  of  persons  whose  addresses  have 
not  been  discovered. 

Opposite  to  the  General  Post  Office  East  stands  the  Gbnbbal 
Post  Officb  West,  containing  the  Telegraph  Department,  This  im- 
posing building  was  erected  in  1870-73  at  a  cost  of  485,000^.  The 
large  Telegraph  Instrument  Galleries,  measuring  300  by  90  ft., 
should  be  visited  (admission  by  request  from  a  banker  or  other  well- 
known  citizen).  They  contain  500  Instruments  with  their  attend- 
ants. On  the  sunk-floor  are  four  steam-engines  of  50  horse-power 
each,  by  means  of  which  messages  are  forwarded  through  pneu- 
matic tubes  to  the  other  offices  in  the  City  and  Strand  district. 

The  vast  and  ever-growing  business  of  the  General  Post  Office 


96  2.    ST.  GILES.  The  CUy, 

fonnd  itself  straitened  for  room  even  in  these  huge  bnildings,  and 
the  Qenbeal  Post  Oppicb  North  was  built  in  1890-96  to  the  N.  of 
Angel  Street.  The  building,  which  is  connected  with  the  Telegraph 
Office  by  a  covered  bridge,  is  designed  in  the  classic  style  by 
Henry  Tanner , .  and  accommodates  the  Office  of  the  Postmaster 
General,  and  the  staffs  of  the  Secretary,  the  Solicitor,  and  the 
Comptroller  and  Accountant  General  of  the  post-office.  On  the  roof 
is  a  restaurant  for  the  use  of  the  clerks.  The  site  and  building  cost 
571, 660^  —  Immediately  to  the  W.  of  this  building,  on  part  of 
the  site  of  Christ's  Hospital  (p.  97),  still  another  large  block,  to 
be  known  as  King  Edward's  Building^  is  in  course  of  erection  for 
postal  purposes. 

Aldersgate  Street  (PI.  R,  39, 40;  II T)  runs  due  N.  from  St.  Martin's 
le  Grand  to  the  Aldersgate  Street  Station  (Metropolitan;  p.  31), 
situated  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Charterhouse  (p.  102). 

The  old  residences  in  this  street,  including  Shaftesbury  House  and 
Lauderdale  House,  have  all  disappeared.  Milton  lived  for  a  time  in  Lamb 
Alley  (now  Maidenhead  Court),  Aldersgate  Street,  and  afterwards  in  Jewin 
Street,  a  side-street  to  the  E.  John  Wesley  ^found  assurance  of  salvation' 
at  a  meeting  in  Aldersgate  Street  (May  24th,  1788). 

To  the  N.  of  the  General  Post  Office  North,  on  the  right,  is  the 
church  of  St.  Botolph  Without  Aldersgate  (PI.  R,39,40;  III),  the 
small  cemetery  of  which  has  been  laid  out  as  a  public  garden, 
familiarly  known  as  the  ^Postmen's  Park'.  The  arcade  here  (the  gift 
of  Mr.  G.  F.  Watts)  was  erected  *in  commemoration  of  heroic  self- 
sacrifice',  instances  of  which  are  recorded  on  tablets  within.  — 
Little  Britain,  skirting  the  N.  side  of  this  garden,  leads  to  Smith- 
field  (p.  100). 

Jewin  Street  leads  to  the  E.  from  Aldersgate  Street  to  Redcross 
Street  and  (to  the  right)  Fore  Street,  in  which  rises  the  late-Perpen- 
dicular church  of  St.  Giles  (PI.  R,  40),  Cripplegate,  built  at  the 
end  of  the  14th  cent.,  and  much  injured  by  a  fire  in  1545;  open 
10-4,  Sat.  10-1  (entered  by  the  N.  door  in  Fore  Street;  W.  front 
approached  by  an  archway  of  1660).  —  Near  the  N.  door  a  Statue 
of  Miltort^  with  reliefs  from  'Comus'  and  Paradise  Lost'  on  the 
pedestal,  by  Horace  Montford,  was  erected  in  1904.  In  the  church- 
yard is  an  old  bastion  of  London  Wall  (p.  xxiv). 

This  church  contains  the  tombs  of  John  Milton  (d.  1674),  who  wrote 
^Paradise  Lost*  in  a  house  in  this  parish  (comp.  above),  now  pulled  down ; 
Foxe  (d.  1587),  the  martyrologist  (tablet  by  the  N.W.  window)  j  Frobisher 
(d.  1594),  the  voyager  (tablet  on  the  N.  wall,  behind  the  organ);  and 
Speed  (d.  1629 ;  effigy  under  the  clock),  the  topographer.  Oliver  Cromwell 
was  married  in  this  church  (Aug.  22nd,  1620),  and  the  parish- register  contains 
an  entry  of  the  burial  of  Daniel  Defoe  (d.  1731).  Hilton  is  commemorated 
by  a  good  bust,  by  Baeon  (1793),  now  placed  on  a  cenotaph  of  1862  ^  and 
his  supposed  resting-place  is  marked  by  a  stone  in  front  of  the  chaiicel- 
rail.  The  monument  of  Constance  Whitney  (d.  1628;  X.  wall)  has  given 
rise  to  a  baseless  legend  that  she  was  buried  alive  and  resuscitated  by  the 
attempt  of  a  thief  to  steal  her  ring.  The  wooden  pulpit,  screen,  and  font- 
cover  were  carved  by  Qrinling   OibboTU.    The  window  at  the  W.  end   of 


The  City,      2.  CENTRAL  CRIMINAL  GOLRT.  97 

the  S.  aisle  commemorates  Edward  Alleyn,  founder  of  Dulwich  Collee;e 
(p.  397).    Ck)mp.  /.  /.  Baddtley'i  ^Church  and  Parish  of  St.  Giles'  (1886). 

To  the  B.  of  St.  Giles,  running  K.  from  Fore  Street  to  Chiswell  Street, 
is  Milton  StruL  better  known  as  the  *Grub  Street*  of  Pope  and  his  con- 
temporaries.  Parallel  with  Fore  Street,  on  the  S.,  is  London  Wall  (p.  1(^). 


To  the  W.  of  the  General  Post  Office  East  is  the  busy  Nbwoatb 
St&bbt,  leading  to  Holbom  and  Oxford  Street.  This  neighhonrhood 
was  long  the  quarter  of  the  butchers.  In  Panyer  AlUy,  the  first 
cross-lane  to  the  left,  once  Inhabited  by  basket-makers,  is  an  oM 
relief  of  a  boy  sitting  upon  a  ^panier',  with  the  inscription: 
When  ye  have  sought  the  city  round, 
Yet  still  this  is  the  highest  ground. 

August  the  27th,  1688. 

King  Edward  Street,  at  the  corner  of  which  is  the  Post  Office 
Station  of  the  Central  London  Railway  (p.  34),  leads  to  the  right 
past  Chriit  Chureh,  built  by  Wren  in  1687-1704  and  containing  the 
remains  of  Richard  Baxter  (d.  1691).  The  interior  was  re-arranged 
in  1896.  The  'Spital  Sermon*,  preached  here  annually  on  Easter 
Tuesday,  is  attended  in  state  by  the  Lord  Mayor  and  aldermen. 

On  the  N.  side  of  ITewgate  Street,  just  beyond  the  church,  formerly 
stood  ChrUCs  Bospital,  a  famous  school  founded  by  Edward  VI.  (1663)  on 
the  site  of  a  monastery  of  the  Grey  Friars  (iSth  cent.).  The  school,  was 
remoTed  in  Hay,  1803,  to  Horsham  in  Sussex  (see  Baedeker"*  QreeU  BriUntn) 
and  its  site  devoted  to  other  purposes  (comp.  pp.  96,  101).  Among  the 
celebrated  men  who  were  educated  at  Christ's  Hospital  we  may  mention 
William  Camden,  Stillingaeet,  Hiddleton,  Dyer,  Samuel  Richardson  (?), 
S.  T.  Coleridge,  Charles  Lamb,  Leigh  Hunt,  and  Sir  Henry  Sumner  Maine. 

Farther  on,  on  the  left,  is  Warwick  Lane,  leading  from  New- 
gate Street  to  Paternoster  Row  (p.  95).  On  the  wall  of  the 
first  house  on  the  right  is  a  curious  relief  of  1668,  representing 
Warwick,  the  *King-maker'.  Farther  on  is  the  Cutlers'  Hall  (1887). 

At  the  W.  end  of  Newgate  St.,  at  the  corner  of  Old  Bailey,  ri^es 
the  imposing  new  building  of  the  Central  Criminal  Court  (PI.  B, 
25;  //),  designed  by  Mr.  E.  W,  Mount ford^  and  opened  in  1905. 
The  ground- floor  is  in  massive  rustica  work;  the  upper  stories  are 
articulated  with  tall  columns ;  while  oyer  all  rise  a  tower  and  dome, 
surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Justice.  Above  the  main  portal  in  Old 
Bailey  is  the  inscription :  'Defend  the  children  of  the  poor  and 
punish  the  wrongdoer.'  —  This  court  (*01d  Bailey  Court')  is  the 
tribunal  for  crimes  and  misdemeanours  committed  within  the  city 
and  county  of  London,  the  county  of  Middlesex,  and  some  parts  of 
Essex,  Kent,  and  Surrey.  It  consists  of  two  divisions,  for  the  trial 
of  grave  and  petty  offences  respectively.  The  trials  are  public,  but 
as  the  courts  are  often  crowded,  a  fee  of  l-5s.,  according  to  the 
Interest  of  the  case,  must  generally  be  given  to  the  door-keeper  to 
secure  a  good  seat.  At  great  trials,  however,  tickets  of  admission 
are  usually  Issued  by  the  aldermen  and  sheriffs. 

The  building  occupies  the  site  of  NeagoAe  Prison ,  once  the  principal 
prison  of  London,  begun  in  1770  by  Oeorge  Donee.  Newgate  was  partly  destroyed 
in  17t0,  before  its  completion,  by  the  Gordon  rioters,  but  was  restored  in 

Babdrkeu's  London.    16lh  Edit.  7 


98  2.    HOLBORN  VIADUCT.  The  City, 

1783.  It  was  pulled  down  in  1902  (relica,  Me  p.  110).  The  public  place  of 
execution,  which  was  formerly  at  Tyburn  near  the  Marble  Arch  (p.  S26) 
was  from  1788  tUl  1868  in  front  of  17ewgate.  From  1868  to  1901  executions 
took  place  within  the  prion^  they  now  occur  atHoUoway  Prison.  Among 
the  famous  or  notorious  prisoners  once  conflned  in  old  Kewgate  were  George 
Wither,  Anne  Askew,  Daniel  Defoe,  Jack  Sheppard,  Titus  Oates.  Lord  George 
Gordon  (who  died  here  of  the  gaol  distemper  in  1798),  and  William  Penn.  — 
Old  London  Wall  had  a  gateway  at  the  bottom  of  Newgate  Street  and 
remains  of  the  Roman  town-wall  were  discovered  in  1902  beneath  the  prison. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  Old  Bailey  is  the  Band  of  Hope  Jubilee 
Building.  No.  68,  near  Lndgate  Hill,  was  the  house  of  the  infamous 
thief-catcher  Jonathan  Wild,  wlio  -was  himself  hanged  in  1725. 

Obliquely  opposite  Newgate,  to  the  N.W.  is  the  Chureh  of 
St.  Sepulchre  (PI.  R,  35;  77),  practically  rebuilt  in  modem  times, 
with  its  square  tower,  where  a  knell  was  tolled  on  the  occasion  of 
an  execution  at  Newgate.  At  one  time  a  nosegay  was  presented  at 
this  ohurch  to  eyery  criminal  on  hig  way  to  execution  at  Tybuin. 
On  the  S.  side  of  the  choir  lie  the  remains  of  the  gallant  Captain 
John  Smith  (d.  1631),  'Sometime  OoTemour  of  Virginia  and  Ad- 
mlrall  of  New  England*.  The  position  of  his  vanished  monument 
is  indicated  by  a  brass  plate  bearing  a  replica  of  the  original  in- 
scription, beginning :  — 

^Here  lyes  one  conqnerM  that  hath  conquered  kings  t* 

Roger  A$cham  (d.  1568),  author  of  'The  Scholemaster*  and  teacher 
of  Queen  Elizabeth,  is  also  buried  here. 

At  this  point,  continuing  Newgate  Street  to  the  W.,  begins  the 
•Holbom  Viaduct  (PI.  R,  35,  36;  77),  a  triumph  of  the  art  of 
modern  street-building,  designed  by  Haywood^  and  completed  in 
1869.  Its  name  is  a  reminiscence  of  the  *HoU-Boume\  the  name 
given  to  the  upper  course  of  the  Fleet  (p.  148),  from  its  running 
through  a  deep  hollow.  This  structure,  465  yds.  long  and  27  yds. 
broad,  extending  from  Newgate  to  Hatton  Garden,  was  constructed 
in  order  to  overcome  the  serious  obstruction  to  the  traffic  between 
Oxford  Street  and  the  City  caused  by  the  steep  descent  of  Holbom 
Hill.  Externally  the  viaduct,  which  is  constructed  almost  entirely 
of  iron,  is  not  visible,  as  rows  of  buildings  extend  along  either 
side.  Beneath  the  roadway  are  vaults  for  commercial  purposes,  and 
subways  for  gas  and  water  pipes,  telegraph-wires,  and  sewage, 
while  at  the  sides  are  the  cellars  of  the  houses.  —  On  the  left  is 
the  Holbom  Viaduct  Station  of  the  South  Eastern  and  Chatham 
Railway  (p.  28),  and  above  it  is  the  Holbom  Viaduct  Hotel  (p.  8). 
The  iron  *Bridge  over  Farringdon  Street  (which  traverses  Holborn 
Valley,  p.  148)  is  39  yds.  long  and  is  supported  by  12  columns  of 
granite,  each  4  ft.  in  diameter.  On  the  parapet  are  bronze  statues 
of  Art,  Science,  Commerce,  and  Agriculture;  on  the  comer- 
towers,  statues  of  famous  Lord  Mayors.  Flights  of  steps  descend 
in  the  towers  to  Farringdon  Street. 

To  the  left,  beyond  the  bridge,  are  the  City  Temple  (Congrega- 
tional church;  Rev.  R.  J.  Campbell;  see  p.  69)  and  St.  Andrew's 


The  City.  2.    HOLBOBN.  99 

Church,  the  Utter  ereeted  In  1686  by  Wren.  Col.  HutcMnson  wib 
married  at  St.  Andrew's  to  Lncy  Apsley  in  1638;  Kiohard  Savage 
was  baptiied  here  on  Jan.  18ih,  1696-97 ;  William  Hazlitt  was  mar- 
ried here  (May  Ist,  1808),  with  Charles  Lamh  as  best  man;  and 
Benjamin  Disraeli  (Lord  Beaconsfleld)  was  christened  here  on  July 
31st,  1817,  at  the  age  of  twelve  years. 

A  little  farther  on  is  Holhom  Circus,  embellished  with  an  Equea^ 
trian  Statue  ofPtince  Albert  ^  by  Baeorhf  with  allegorical  figures  and 
reliefs  on  the  granite  pedestal.  Charterhouse  Street  leads  hence  to 
the  N.E.  to  SmUhfieLd  (p.  100)  and  Charterhouse  Square  (p.  102), 
while  Hatton  Oatden  (so  named  from  Sir  Christopher  Hatton,  Queen 
Elizabeth's  Lord  Keeper)  leads  to  the  N.  towards  ClerkenweU  Road, 

17 ear  the  beginning  of  Charterhouse  Street  is  the  entrance  to  Bly  Place, 
formerly  the  site  of  the  celebrated  palace  of  the  bishops  of  Ely,  where  John 
of  Gaunt,  brother  of  the  Black  Prince  and  father  of  Henry  IV.,  died  in  1399. 
The  ehapel  of  the  palace,  known  as  'SljOhapel  (8t.  Ethetdreda's;  see  p.  71), 
escaped  the  fire  of  1666  and  has  been  recently  restored.  It  is  a  good 
specimen  of  i4th  cent,  architecture  and  retains  its  original  oaken  roof. 
The  noble  E.  and  W.  windows  are  splendid  examples  of  tracery,  and  the 
former  is  filled  with  fine  stained  glass.  The  crypt  is  also  worth  rlsiting, 
and  the  quaint  cloister,  planted  with  fig-trees,  forms  a  strangely  quiet 
nook  amid  the  roar  of  Holbom. 

On  the  W.  side  of  Holbom  Circus  begins  Holhom,  leading  to 
Oxford  Street  and  Bayswater ;  see  p.  274.  On  the  S.  side  of  Holbom, 
beyond  Fetter  Lane,  is  Barnard^ s  Jrm,  an  old  inn  of  chancery  (comp. 
p.  151),  purchased  by  the  Mercers'  Company,  which  in  1894  here 
erected  two  large  red  brick  buildings  for  the  Merceri  Schools,  with 
accommodation  for  300  pupils.  The  old  hall  of  the  inn  has  been 
preserved  as  a  dining-room  for  the  boys.  The  Mercers*  Schools  claim 
to  have  been  established  about  the  middle  of  the  15th  cent,  and 
number  John  Colet,  Dean  of  St.  Paul's  (p.  112),  and  Sir  Thomas 
Gresham  (p.  1 12)  among  their  distinguished  scholars.  A  little  farther 
to  the  W.,  opposite  Gray's  Inn  Road,  is  *StapU  In,n,  a  quaint  and 
picturesque  old  inn  of  chancery  (comp.  p.  151),  celebrated,  like 
Barnard's  Inn,  by  Dickens.  The  hall  of  Staple  Inn  has  been  recently 
restored.  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson  wrote  ^Rasselas^  here.  Still  farther 
on  rises  the  facade  (1902)  of  the  Birhbech  Bank,  embellished  with 
busts  of  Canova  and  Lord  Leighton  and  reliefs  of  General  Baden- 
Powell,  Lord  Kitchener,  Lord  Roberts,  and  Viscount  Wolseley.  On 
the  N.  side  of  Holbom,  opposite  the  end  of  Furnlval  Street,  are  the 
offices  of  the  Prudential  Assurance  Co,,  an  imposing  Gothic  building 
in  red  brick,  occupying  the  site  Of  FumivaVs  Inn,  formerly  an  inn 
of  chancery.  Charles  Dickens  was  living  at  Furnival's  Inn  when 
he  began  the  Tickwick  Papers'.  Leather  Lathe,  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  new  block,  is  largely  inhabited  by  Italians  of  the  poorer  classes. 
In  nrooke  Street,  on  the  W.  side,  stood  the  house  (No.  39;  rebuilt) 
in  which  Chatterlon  killed  himself  in  1770.  Opposite  the  N.  end  of 
Brooke  Street  is  St.  Alban's  Church  (PI.  R,  36 :  II),  the  scene  of 
the  labours  of  the  Rev.  A.  H.  Makonochie  (d.  1887)  and  still  noted 

7* 


100  3.  SMITHFIELD.  The  aty. 

for  Its  extremely  ritnallstle  sendees.  The  interior  is  adorned  with 
painting,  alabaster,  and  coloured  marble.  The  organ  (by  H.  Willis) 
Is  one  of  the  finest  In  London.  ^-  A  few  yards  to  the  W.  of  Brooke  St. 
is  Gray* 8  Inn  Road,  just  beyond  which  is  Oray^i  Inn  (see  p.  162). 

3.  Smifhfield.  St.  Bartholomew's  Hospital  and  Church. 
Charterhouse. 

From  St.  Sepnlchre^s  Church  (p.  98)  QilUpur  Street  leads  to 
the  N.  to  Smith  field.  To  the  left  diyerges  Cock  Lane,  which  in 
1762  was  the  scene  'of  the  famous  imposture  known  as  the  *Oock 
Lane  Ghost',  which  so  interested  Dr.  Johnson,  Horace  Walpole, 
and  other  men  of  the  time.  At  the  comer  of  Giltspur  Street  and 
Cock  Lane  is  an  inscription  to  the  effect  that  this  was  Pye  Comer, 
where  the  Great  Fire  of  1666  stopped,  having  begun  in  Pudding 
Lane  (p.  123). 

The  market-place  of  Smithfleld  (PI.  R,  36, 40;  Ji),  a  name  said 
to  haye  been  originally  Smooth-field ,  was  formerly  a  tournament 
ground,  and  lay  outside  the  walls  of  London.  Here  Bartholomew 
Fair,  with  Its  revels,  was  held  for  many  ages.  Sham-flghts,  tilts, 
tricks  of  acrobats,  and  even  miracle-plays  were  exhibited.  Smith- 
field  was  the  place  of  public  execution  before  Tyburn,  and  in  1305 
witnessed  the  beheading  of  the  Scottish  patriot,  William  Wallace. 
Wat  Tyler  was  slain  here  in  1381  by  the  then  Lord  Mayor,  Sir 
William  Walworth ;  and  here,  in  the  reign  of  'Bloody  Mary\  many 
of  the  persecuted  Protestants ,  including  Anne  Askew,  Rogers, 
Bradford,  and  Phllpot,  suffered  death  at  the  stake,  while  under 
Elizabeth  several  Nonconformists  met  with  a  similar  fate.  Subse- 
quently, during  a  long  period,  Smithfield  was  the  only  cattle- 
market  of  London.  The  space  having  at  length  become  quite  inade- 
quate, the  cattle-market  was  removed  to  Copenhagen  Fields  (p.  63) 
in  1855,  and  in  1862-68  the  London  Central  Meat  Market  was 
erected  here  on  the  N.  side  of  the  open  space  now  known  as  West 
Smithfield.  The  building,  designed  by  Sir  Horace  Jones,  is  in  a 
pleasing  Renaissance  style,  with  four  towers  at  the  comers.  It  is 
630  ft.  long,  245  ft.  broad,  and  30  ft.  high,  and  covers  an  area  of 
3^2  acres.  The  roof  is  of  glass  and  iron.  A  broad  carriage-road 
intersects  the  market  from  N.  to  S. 

Below  the  building  is  an  extensive  Railway  Depot,  connected  with 
several  nnderground  railways,  from  which  the  meat  is  conveyed  to  the 
market  by  a  lift.  In  the  centre  of  Smithfield  is  a  small  garden,  with  a 
handsome  fountain.  The  road  winding  round  the  garden  leads  down  to 
the  subterranean  area  below  the  market,  which  is  a  sufficiently  curious 
specimen  of  London  underground  life  to  repay  the  descent. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Meat  Market  is  the  London  Central  Potatry  antmh'o- 
vUion  Market^  which  was  opened  for  business  in  1876.  It  is  by  the  same 
architect  and  in  the  same  style  as  the  Meat  Market,  and  measures  260  by 
246  ft.  Still  farther  to  the  W.  (on  the  E.  side  of  Farringdon  Street)  stands 
the  London  Central  General  Market,  erected  in  1836-92,  comprizing  sections 
for  poultry  and  provisions,  fish,  and  fruit,  vegetables,  and  flowers. 


TKe  CUy.    3.  ST.  BARTHOLOMEW'S  CHURCH.  101 

On  the  £.  side  of  Wtst  SmUhfiM  lies  8t  Bartholomew't  HoipiUl 
(PI.  R,  40;  //),  the  oldest  and  one  of  the  wealthiest  henoTolent 
institutions  in  London.  In  1123  Rahere,  a  f aTonrite  of  Henry  I. , 
founded  here  a  priory  and  hospital  of  St.  Bartholomew,  which 
were  enlarged  hy  Richard  Whittington,  Lord  Mayor  of  London. 
The  hospital  was  refounded  by  Henry  Till,  on  the  suppression 
of  the  monasteries  in  1547.  The  main  large  quadrangular  ediilce 
was  erected  by  Oibbt  in  1730-33 ,  and  has  two  entrances.  Aboye 
the  W.  gate,  towards  Smlthfleld,  built  in  1702,  is  a  statue  of 
Henry  YIII.,  with  a  sick  man  and  a  cripple  at  the  sides.  An  in- 
scription on  the  external  wall  commemorates  the  burning  of  three 
Protestant  martyrs  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Mary  (p.  100).  Within 
the  gate  It  the  church  of  8i,  Bartholomew  the  Less,  originally  built 
by  Rahere,  but  fe-erected  In  1823.  The  hospital  ei^oys  a  yearly 
reyenue  of  66,000^,  and  contains  670  beds,  in  which  about  7500 
patients  are  annually  attended.  Relief  is  also  given  to  about  125,000 
casualty  and  out-patients.  Cases  of  accident  are  taken  in  at  any 
hour  of  the  day  or  night,  and  receiye  immediate  and  gratuitous  at- 
tention. The  famous  Medical  School  connected  with  the  hospital  has 
numbered  among  its  teachers  Haryey,  the  discoyerer  of  the  circula- 
tion of  the  blood,  Abemethy,  and  other  renowned  surgeons  and 
physicians.  The  medical  school  was  rebuilt  and  enlarged  in  1876-Sl 
at  a  cost  of  50,000^  It  includes  Anatomieal^  Medical,  and  Chemical 
Theatres,  a  large  Dissecting  Boom,  yarious  Laboratories,  Museums 
of  Af%atomy  and  Botany,  and  a  well-furnished  Library,  Part  of  the 
Christ's  Hospital  property  (p.  97)  was  secured  in  1902  for  the  ex- 
tension and  reconstruction  of  the  hospital,  and  in  1907  a  new  Out^ 
Patient  and  CcuuaUy  Department  was  opened  in  Giltspur  St.,  pro- 
portionate in  size  to  the  enormous  out-patient  practice  of  the  hospital. 

The  great  hall  c  ntains  a  few  good  portraits,  among  which  we  notice 
an  old  portrait  of  Henry  VIII.  (after  Holbein):  Dr.  Badcliffe,  physic'an  to 
Queen  Anne,  by  Kneller;  Perceval  Pott,  for  43  years  Burgeon  to  the  In- 
stitution, by  Sir  Joshua  Reynold;  Abemethy,  the  sui^eon,  by  Sir  Thomas 
Lawrence;  also  a  bust  of  Queen  Victoria,  by  Otuhm  Fard^  and  a  portrait  of 
Edward  VII.,  by  Luke  Ftldee.  In  the  committee-room  is  another  portrait  of 
Henry  VIII.,  attributed  to  Bolbein.  The  paintings  on  the  grand  staircase 
(the  Good  Samaritan,  the  Pool  ofBethesda,  Bahe:e  as  founder  of  the  Hospi- 
til,  and  a  Sick  Man  borne  by  monks)  are  the  work  of  Hogarth^  who  exe- 
cuted them  gratuitously,  and  was  in  return  made  a  Oovemor  for  life. 

The  neighbouring  *Church  of  St.  Bartholomew  tlie  0reat  is 
reached  through  an  inconspicuous  arched  gateway,  richly  ornamented 
with  fine  dog-toothed  moulding,  on  the  N.E.  side  of  West  Smith- 
fleld,  near  the  beginning  of  the  street  known  as  Little  Britain  (p.  96). 
The  church,  chiefly  in  the  Anglo-Korman  style,  Testored  in  lo63-66 
and  again  in  1886  et  seq.,  is  open  daily  from  9.30  to  5.  With  the 
exception  of  the  chapel  in  the  Tower  (p.  134),  which  is  20  years 
earlier,  this  is  the  oldest  church  in  the  City  of  London.  Like  the 
Hospital  (see  aboye)  it  was  founded  by  Rahere  in  1 123,  sixty  years 
before  the  foundation  of  the  Temple  Church  (p.  ^^'^}  f?4rri  '^^tmaST 


102  3.  CHARTERHOUSE.  The  City, 

The  exiftlng  chnrtili,  consisting  merely  of  the  choir,  the  crossing,  and 
one  bay  of  the  nare  of  the  original  Priory  Church,  is  mainly  pure  Nor- 
man work  as  left  1>y  Bahere.  Other  portions  of  the  chnrch  were  alienated 
or  destroyed  by  Benry  VIII.  The  gateway  from  Smithfield  was  the 
entrance  either  to  the  nave,  now  the  graveyard,  or  to  an  inner  court. 
Here  may  be  seen  some  remains  of  the  E.B.  piers  of  the  nave,  which 
was  somewhat  later  than  the  choir.  Early  in  the  15th  cent,  the  apsidal 
end  of  the  choir  was  replaced  by  a  square  ending,  with  two  Perpendicular 
windows,  the  jambs  of  which  still  remain.  The  clerestory  was  rebuilt 
at  the  same  time  and  a  fine  Lady  Chapel  thrown  out  to  the  E.  of  the 
high-altar.  This  chapel  was  long  used  as  a  fringe  manufactory,  being 
mutilated  almost  beyond  recognition;  it  was,  however,  repurchased  in 
1886  for  66001.  and  has  been  restored.  Below  it  is  an  interesting  crypt 
(adm.  6d.).  Prior  BoUon  made  farther  alterations  in  the  i6th  cent,  and 
his  rebus  (a  *bolt*  throueh  a  Hun*)  may  be  seen  at  the  base  of  the  beau- 
tiful oriel  on  the  8.  side  of  the  choir  and  on  the  doorway  at  the  E. 
end  of  the  8.  ambulatory.  The  present  apse  was  built  in  the  recent 
restoration,  from  a  design  by  Sir  Aston  Webb,  &.  A.,  and  has  restored 
the  choir  to  something  of  its  original  beauty.  The  K.  transept  before  its 
restoration  was  occupied  by  a  blacksmith's  forge.  Doors  in  the  transepts 
lead  respectively  to  the  N.  triforium,  containing  a  collection  of  stones 
found  during  the  restoration,  and  to  the  S.  triforium  with  Bolton's  oriel 
(adm.  6d.).  The  modern  iron-work  in  the  arcading  of  the  N.  transept  and 
the  screen  of  the  Lady  Chapel  deserve  notice.  A  c^ood  Norman  doorway 
at  the  W.  end  of  the  church  leads  to  two  bays  of  the  E.  walk  of  the  ori- 
fiinal  cloisters,  rebuilt  with  the  inclusion  of  some  ancient  remains  in  1905 
(adm.  6d.).  These  bays  are  the  only  extant  relics  of  the  secular  buildings 
of  the  priory.  —  Photographs  of  the  church  are  sold  by  the  verger  (prices 
6<f.-2s. ;  description  of  the  church  is.). 

The  Tombs  are  worthy  of  attention.  That  of  the  founder,  on  the  N. 
side  of  the  sanctuary,  with  its  rich  canopy,  is  much  later  than  the  effigy 
of  Rahere  resting  upon  it.  In  the  8.  ambulatory  is  the  handsome  tomb, 
in  alabaster,  of  Sir  Walter  Mildmay  (d.  1GB9),  Chancellor  of  the  Exchequer 
to  Queen  Elizabeth  and  founder  of  Emmanuel  College,  Cambridge.  Many 
of  the  epitophs  are  curious;  that  of  John  and  Margaret  Whiting  (1680-81) 
in  a  window-recess,  in  the  N.  aisle,  ends:  — 

*Shee  first  deceased,  Hee  for  a  little  Tryd 
To  live  without  her,  likd  it  not  and  dyd\ 

The  last  line  in  the  epitaph  of  Edward  Cooke  (1662),  to  the  E.  of 
Hildmay's  tomb,  refers  to  the  fact  that  it  is  infcribed  on  a  kind  of  Veeping 
marble'  which  frequently  condensed  moisture.  The  modem  heating  arrange- 
ments of  the  church  have  put  an  end  to  the  phenomenon.  —  At  the  W. 
end  of  the  church  is  a  tasteful  oaken  organ-screen,  erected  in  1839. 

Among  the  notable  men  who  have  lived  in  Bartholomew  Close  are 
Hilton,  Franklin  (working  in  a  printing-office),  Hogarth  (who  was  baptised 
in  the  existing  font).  Dr.  Caius,  and  Washington  Irving. 

GbarteTbonse  Street,  a  broad  and  handsome  thoToughfare  to 
the  N.  of  Smithfield,  leads  from  Holborn  (p.  99)  to  Aldersgate 
Street,  vi&  Oharterhonse  Square.  To  the  N.E.  of  the  last  is  the 
Charterhoase  (corrnpted  from  Chartreuse;  PI.  R,  40),  once  a 
Carthusian  monastery,  or  priory  of  the  Salutation,  founded  in  1371 
on  the  site  of  a  burying-fleld  for  persons  dying  of  the  plague.  After 
Its  dissolution  by  Henry  VIII.  in  1537  the  monastery  passed  through 
various  hands,  including  those  of  Lord  North  and  Thomas  Howard, 
Duke  of  Norfolk,  who  made  it  the  town-house  of  the  Howards. 
Queen  Elizabeth  made  a  stay  of  five  days  at  the  Charterhouse  await- 
ing J^er  conation,  and  her  successor  James  I.  kept  court  here  for 
'AeveraT^ays  on  entering  London.    The  property  was  purchased  in 


The  City,  3.  ST.  JOHN'S  GATE.  103 

1611  by  Thomas  Sutton,  a  wealthy  merchant,  for  his  'Hospital',  i,e 
a  school  for  40  *poor  boys'  and  a  home  foi  80  *poor  men'.  A  curfew, 
tolled  eyery  eyening  at  8  or  9  o'clock,  proclaims  the  number  of  the 
*poor  brethren^  which  owing  to  depreciation  of  agricultural  rents  is 
now  59.  These  are  not  former  pupils  of  the  school ;  the  flctltlous 
Instance  of  Thackeray's  Col.  Newcome,  who  was  both  a  pupil  and 
a  poor  brother,  is  one  which  has  very  rarely  been  paralleled  in  the 
real  history  of  the  Institution.  The  school  was  transferred  in  1872 
to  Godalming  in  Surrey,  where  large  and  handsome  buildings  were 
erected  for  it  (see  Baedeker's  Great  Britain).  The  part  of  the  pro- 
perty thus  vacated  was  sold  to  the  Merchant  Taylors'  Company  for 
their  ancient  school,  now  containing  500  boys.  The  Charterhouse 
School,  which  is  attended  by  500  boys  besides  60  on  the  found- 
ation, boasts  among  its  former  scholars  the  names  of  Barrow, 
Crashaw,  Lovelace,  Steele,  Addison,  Blackstone,  Wesley,  Thomas 
Day  (author  of  *Sandford  and  Merton'),  Grote,  Thirlwall,  Leech, 
Havelock,  and  Thackeray  *,  while  among  the  famous  pupils  of  the 
Merchant  Taylors'  School  are  Edmund  Spenser,  James  Shirley,  and 
Lord  Clive.  Visitors  are  shown  over  the  buildings  by  the  porter 
any  day  except  Sun.  (fee  6(2.,  reduction  for  a  party);  but  the  Great 
Hall  is  closed  from  noon  to*3  p.m.  Visitors  may  attend  service  in 
the  chapel  on  Sun.  at  11  and  on  weekdays  at  9.30  and  6. 

The  ancient  baildings  date  chiefly  from  the  early  part  of  the  i6th 
cent.,  but  have  been  modified  and  added  to  by  Lord  North,  the  Duke  of 
Korfolk,  and  others.  The  Or  eat  Hall  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  spe* 
cimens  of  a  16th  cent,  room  in  London.  The  Oreat  Staircase  and  the 
OreeU  Chamber  upstairs  are,  with  the  exception  of  the  W.  window  of  the 
latter,  just  as  the  Duke  of  Norfolk  left  them  three  centuries  ago.  Part 
of  the  original  Chapel  (1371)  remains,  but  it  was  altered  by  the  monks 
about  1500  and  greatly  enlarged  by  the  Trustees  of  Thomas  Sutton  in 
1612,  when  it  received  its  present  Jacobean  appearance.  It  is  approached 
by  a  cloister  with  memorials  of  Thackeray,  Leech,  Havelock.  John  Hnl- 
lah,  etc.,  and  contains  a  fine  alabaster  monument  of  Sutton  (loll)  and  the 
monuments  of  the  first  Lord  Ellenborongh  by  Ghantrey  and  of  Dr.  Raine 
by  Flaxman.  The  altar-piece  is  a  copy  of  Francla^s  Pieta  in  the  National 
Gallery  (p.  172;  No.  180).  The  initials  of  Prior  Houghton,  who  was  head 
of  the  priory  at  the  dissolution,  may  be  seen  on  the  outer  wall  of  the 
Washhouee  Court.  The  two  quadrangles  in  which  the  Pensioners  and  some 
of  the  officials  reside  were  built  about  1825-40. 

The  Matters  Lodge  contains  several  portraits:  Sutton,  the  founder  of 
the  institution;  Charles  II. ;  George  Villiers,  second  Duke  of  Buckingham ; 
Duke  of  Monmouth ;  Lord  Chancellor  Shaftesbury ;  Lord  Chancellor  Somers ; 
William,  Earl  of  Graven ;  Archbishop  Sheldon ;  Talbot,  Duke  of  Shrews- 
bury; and  the  fine  portrait  of  Dr.  Burnet,  by  Kneller. 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  the  Charterhouse  is  St,  John's  Lane ,  in 
which  is  situated  St.  John'i  jSate  (PI.  R,  36),  an  interesting  relic 
of  an  old  priory  of  the  knights  of  St.  John ,  with  lateral  turrets, 
erected  in  the  late-Gothic  style  in  1504,  by  Prior  Docvcra,  On  the 
N.  side  of  the  gateway  are  the  arms  of  the  priory  and  of  Doowra  j 
and  on  the  S.  side  those  of  England  and  of  France.  The  knights 
of  St.  John  were  suppressed  by  Henry  VIII.,  restored  by  Mary, 
and  finally  dispersed  by  Elizabeth.   The  rooms  above  the  gate  were 


104  3.  BUNHILL  FIELDS.  The  City. 

once  occupied  by  Gaye,  the  foundei  of  the  *  Gentleman's  Magazine' 
(1731),  to  which  Dr.  Johnson  contributed  and  which  had  a  repie- 
sentallon  of  St.  John's  Gate  on  the  coTer;  they  contain  some  in- 
teresting historical  relics.  The  baildlng  Is  now  oecnpied  by  the 
Order  of  St  John,  a  benevolent  association  engaged  in  ambulance 
and  hospital  work,  etc.,  and  visitors  are  admitted  only  with  special 
order  from  the  secretary.  —  In  St.  John's  Square,  to  the  K.  of 
the  gate,  is  St.  John's  Church  (care-taker,  Mrs.  Toms,  112  Olerken- 
well  Road).  The  Norman  crypt  dates  from  the  12-1 3th  cent,  and 
formed  part  of  the  old  priory  church.  It  was  in  this  crypt  that  the 
exposure  of  the  'Cook  Lane  Ghost'  (p.  100)  was  consummated.  In 
the  little  graveyard,  behind  the  church,  are  buried  several  rela- 
tives of  Wilkes  Booth,  the  murderer  of  President  Lincoln. 

Olerkenwell  Road  runs  to  the  W.  from  St.  John's  Square  to  Gray's 
Inn  Road,  with  Gray's  Inn  (p.  152).  The  considerable  district  of 
CUrkenwell,  now  largely  inhabited  by  wateh-makers,  goldsmiths, 
and  opticians,  derives  its  name  from  the  'Clerks' Well'  once  situated 
here,  to  which  the  parish  clerks  of  London  annually  resorted  for 
the  celebration  of  miracle  plays,  etc. 

A  little  to  the  K.,  at  the  corner  of  St.  John  Street  Road  and  Ashby  Street, 
is  the  Martyrs'  Memorial  Church  (,8t.  J'leter't:  PI.  B,  86),  a  fantastic  French 
Gothic  edifice  erected  about  1870,  with  stanies  of  the  Smithfleld  Protestant 
martyrs.  Close  by  are  Northampton  Square  and  Northampton  Institute  (Fl.  B, 
36),  occupying  what  was  once  the  garden  of  the  London  house  of  the 
Harquis  of  Northampton.  The  institute,  opened  in  1897,  is  probably  the 
largest  polytechnic  in  London  (p.  xxxiii).  —  A  little  to  the  E.  runs  Ootwell 
Roady  the  S.  part  of  which,  formerly  named  Goswell  Street,  is  familiar  to 
aU  readers  of  ^Pickwick'.  —  Bwedenborg  died  in  1772  at  26  Great  Bath  Street, 
Olerkenwell  (comp.  p.  142). 

Glerkenwell  Road  is  continued  to  the  E.  by  Old  Street,  from 
which,  on  the  right,  diverges  BunhlU  Row,  at  No.  125  In  which 
John  Milton  once  lived  (tablet).  Here  also  is  the  BnnMll  Fields 
Cemetery  (PI.  R,  40,  44),  also  known  for  a  time  as  TinddW$  Burial 
Ground^  once  the  chief  burial-place  for  Nonconformists,  but 
disused  since  1852.  It  contains  tlie  tombs  of  John  Bunyan  (d. 
1688;  sarcophagus  with  recumbent  figure,  to  the  S.  of  the  central 
walk),  Daniel  Defoe  (d.  1731 ;  obelisk  to  the  N.  of  the  central  walk), 
Dr.  Isaac  Watts  (d.  1748;  altar-tomb  to  the  E.  of  Defoe),  Susan- 
nah Wesley  (d.  1742;  mother  of  John  and  Charles  Wesley),  William 
Blake  (d.  1827),  Dr.  John  Owen  (1616-83),  Henry,  Richard,  and 
William  Cromwell  (descendants,  but  not  sons,  of  the  Protector), 
Thomas  Stothard,  R.  A.  (d.  1834),  etc. 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  this  cemetery  is  the  Friends'  Burial  Ground^  with 
the  grave  of  George  Fox,  founder  of  the  Society  of  Friends  or  Quakers. 

Immediately  to  the  S.  of  Bunhill  Fields  are  the  headquarters  and 
drill-ground  of  the  Honourable  Artillery  Company,  the  oldest  mili- 
tary body  in  the  kingdom. 

The>H.  A.  C,  as  it  is  generally  called,  received  its  charter  of  incor- 
poration, under  the  title  of  the  Guild  or  Fraternity  of  St.  George,  from 
Henry  VIII.  in  1537,  and  its  rights  and  privileges  have  been  confirmed  by 


The  City.  3.  WESLEY'S  HOUSE.  105 

upwards  of  90  royal  warrants,  tbo  last  dated  March,  1889.  The  officers  of 
the  Trained  Bands  and  the  City  of  London  Militia  were  formerly  always 
selected  from  members  of  this  Company.  Since  1680  the  Captain-Oeneral 
and  Colonel  has  always  been  either  the  King  or  the  Prince  of  Wales.  The 
names  of  John  Milton,  Christopher  Wren,  and  Samuel  Pepys  are  on  the 
roll  of  former  members.  The  Company,  which  has  occupied  Its  present 
ground  since  1643,  consists  of  two  batteries  of  field-artillery  and  a  bat- 
talion of  infantry.  It  is  the  only  volunteer  corps  which  indudes  horse- 
artillery.  The*  H.  A.  C.  takes  precedence  after  the  regular  forces,  the  im- 
perial yeomanry,  and  the  militia,  and  is  one  of  the  few  regiments  allowed  to 
march  through  the  City  of  London  with  fixed  bayonets.  The  Ancient  and 
Honourable  Artillery  Companv  of  Boston  (Mass.),  the  oldest  military  body 
in  America,  was  founded  in  1688  by  some  members  of  the  H.  A.  C.  who 
had  emigrated.  The  two  corps  are  aasociated  on  the  friendliest  terms. 
See  the  History  of  ihe  Company,  by  Lt.  Col.  Raikes. 

In  City  Road,  facing  the  £.  entiance  of  Banhill  Fields,  is  Wee- 
ley'i  Chapel  (PL  E,  44).  John  Wesley  (1703-91)  is  buried  in  the 
grayeytid  behind  the  chapel,  and  in  front  of  it  is  his  Statue,  un- 
veiled in  1891.  His  mother  (d.  1742)  and  his  brother  Ghailos  (d. 
1788)  are  commemorated  in  the  chapel.  WcaUy^a  House  (No.  47 
City  Koad),  adjoining  the  chapel  on  the  S.,  is  now  partly  fitted  up 
as  a  Weslby  MusBUM  (daily,  10-4,  3(i.).  Wesley's  sitting-room, 
the  bedroom  in  which  he  died,  and  the  small  adjoining  room  which 
was  the  scene  of  his  private  devotions  are  shown,  containing  furni- 
ture belonging  to  Wesley ,  books,  autographs,  portraits,  and  per- 
sonal relics. 

City  Road  is  continued  on  the  S.  by  Finabury  Pavement  and 
Moorgate  Street  (stations  of  the  Metropolitan  and  the  City  &  S. 
London  Electric  Railway)  to  Lothhury,  near  the  Bank  of  England 
(p.  113).  —  In  Fimbwry  arcus  (PL  R,  44;  77/)  is  the  London  In- 
aUtutUm  (p.  66). 

In  Curtain  Road  (PI.  R,M),  reached  yi&  Castle  Street  and  Scrutton  Street, 
is  the  Church  of  8i.  James,  which  probably  stands  on  or  near  the  site  of 
the  old  Ottrtain  Theatre^  where,  according  to  tradition,  ^Hamlet*  was  first 
performed.  It  is  even  more  probable  that  'Romeo  and  Juliet^  was  also 
played  here  for  the  first  time.  It  is  not  unlikely  that  Shakspeare  acted 
here  in  his  own  plays.  To  commemorate  this  association  a  stained-glass 
window  was  erected  in  1886  at  the  W.  end  of  the  church  by  Hr.  Stan- 
ley Cooper. 

At  No.  14  Blomfleld  Street,  London  Wall  (PL  R,  43, 44),  are  the 
offices  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  containing  a  small  Museum 
(open  daily,  9.30-6,  on  application).  —  The  vestry  of  the  small 
Church  of  All  HaUows-on-the-  WaU  (PL  R,  43 ;  777),  in  London  Wall, 
is  believed  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  bastion  of  the  Roman  city  wall. 
The  entrance  to  the  pulpit,  by  a  flight  of  steps  leading  direct  from  the 
vestry  through  the  wall  of  the  church,  is  unique  in  London.  A  little 
farther  to  the  W.,  at  the  comer  of  London  Wall  and  Throgmorton 
Avenue,  is  Carpenter's  HaU,  rebuilt  in  1876  and  containing  some 
old  portraits  and  plate  (no  adm.).  Still  farther  to  the  W.  in  London 
Wall,  is  a  small  part  of  the  churchyard  of  St,  AlphagCy  containing  a 
large  and  interesting  fragment  of  London  Wall  (p.  xxiv). 


106 


4.    Cheapside.    Gaildhall.    Mansion  Hoase. 

Goldsmiths'  Hall,    St  Mary  le  Bow.     Oresham  College,    Mercers' 
Hall.   Armourers^  Hall.    St.  Stephen's,  Walbrook. 

From  St.  Paul's  Cliurchyard  Cp.94),  Cheapside  (P1.R,39,  and  III; 
from  the  Anglo-Saxon  ceapian,  *to  sell',  *  to  bargain'),  l)egmmng 
at  PeeVs  Statite  (p.  95),  runs  to  the  E.  and  is  continued  to  the  Man- 
sion House  (p.  112)  by  the  Poultry.  Cheapside,  one  of  the  busiest 
streets  in  the  city,  rich  in  historical  reminiscences,  is  now  lined  with 
handsome  shops.  Its  jewellers  and  mercers  haye  been  famous  from  a 
time  even  earlier  than  that  of  honest  John  Gilpin,  under  whose  wheels 
the  stones  rattled  'as  if  Cheapside  were  mad'.  Cheapside  Cross,  one 
of  the  memorials  erected  by  Edward  I.  to  Queen  Eleanor,  stood  here, 
at  the  end  of  Wood  St.  (p.  107),  till  destroyed  by  the  Puritans  in 
1643 ;  and  the  neighbourhood  was  frequently  the  scone  of  conflicts 
between  the  apprentices  of  the  various  rival  guilds.  To  the  right 
and  left  diverge  several  cross-streets,  the  names  of  which  probably 
preserve  the  position  of  the  stalls  of  the  different  tradespeople  in 
the  far  back  period  when  Cheapside  was  an  open  market.  Land 
here  is  worth  1,000,000^.  per  acre. 

From  the  W.  end  of  Cheapside,  Foster  Lane,  behind  the  General 
Post  Office,  leads  to  the  N.,  passing  St.  Vtdasi's  Church  (rebuilt  by 
Wren  after  the  Great  Fire;  Robert  Herrick  baptized  here  in  1591 ; 
singular  relief  over  the  W.  door),  to  GoIdsmithB'  Hall,  re-erected 
in  the  Renaissance  stylo  by  Hardwick  in  1835.  Visitors,  though 
sometimes  admitted  on  application,  are  advised  to  write  beforehand 
for  permission. 

Chief  object3  of  interest  in  the  interior:  Grand  Staircase,  with  portraits 
of  George  IV.,  by  Northcote;  William  IV.,  by  Hayter;  George  III.  and  his 
consort  Charlotte,  by  Ramxay;  in  the  Committee  Room  (first  floor),  the 
remains  of  a  Roman  altar  found  in  digging  the  foundations  of  the  present 
hall ;  portrait  of  Lord  Mayor  Myddelton,  -who  provided  London  with  water 
by  the  construction  of  the  New  River  (1613),  by  Jansm;  portrait  of  Lord 
Mayor  Sir  Martin  Bowes  (1545),  with  the  goblet  which  he  bequeathed  to 
the  Goldsmiths'  Company  (out  of  which  Queen  Elizabeth  is  said  to  have 
drunk  at  her  coronation,  and  which  is  still  preserved)^  portraits  of  Queen 
Victoria,  by  Hayter;  Prince  Albert,  by  Smith;  Queen  Adelaide,  by  Shee; 
busts  of  George  HI.,  George  IV.,  and  William  IV.,  by  Chantrey;  statues 
of  Cleopatra  and  the  Sibyl,  by  Story.  —  The  Company,  incorporated  in 
1327,  has  the  privilege  of  assaying  and  stamping  most  of  the  gold  and 
silver  manufactures  of  England,  for  which  it  receives  a  small  percentage, 
just  sufficient  to  defray  the  expenses  of  the  officers. 

Opposite  Foster  Lane,  to  the  left,  is  Old  Change,  leading  to 
Cannon  Street  (p.  130).  In  this  street,  at  the  corner  of  Watling 
Street,  is  the  Church  of  St.  Augivstine  (PI.  R,  39;  III),  rebuilt  by 
Wren  in  1683-95.  The  Rev.  R.  H.  Barham,  author  of  the  *Ingoldsby 
Legends',  was  rector  here  from  1842  till  his  death  in  1845. 

To  the  left,  a  little  farther  on  in  Cheapside  fNo.  141),  is  the 
entrance  to  Saddlers*  Hall  (adm.  on  introduction  only).  The  com- 
pany claims  to  be  the  oldest  in  the  City,  but  its  hall  is  modern, 


The  City,  4.    ST.  MARY  LE  BOW.  107 

having  been  rebailt  in  1820  after  a  fire.  Among  its  treasures  are 
a  crimson  velvet  pall  of  the  16th  cent.,  some  fine  old  silver  plate, 
and  portraits  by  Romney  and  Klostermans.  Near  the  comer  of 
Wood  Street,  on  the  left,  still  stands  the  plane-tree  mentioned  by 
Wordsworth  in  his  Toor  Susan*;  it  is  specially  protected  in  the 
leases  of  the  adjoining  houses.  Between  Friday  Street  and  Bread 
Street,  on  the  right,  once  stood  the  Mermaid  Tavern  i,  rendered 
famous  by  the  social  meetings  of  Shakspeare,  Beaumont,  Fletcher, 
Dr.  Donne,  and  other  members  of  the  club  founded  here  by  Ben 
Jonson  in  1603.  John  Milton  was  born  in  Bread  Street  in  1608, 
and  a  tablet  on  the  house  at  the  corner  of  Bread  Street  and  Wat- 
ling  Street  commemorates  his  birth  and  his  baptism  in  the  church 
of  All  Hallows,  formerly  on  this  site.  Sir  Thomas  More  (b.  1480) 
was  bom  in  Milk  Street,  on  the  opposite  side. 

On  the  right  (S.)  side  of  Cheapside,  farther  on,  is  the  church  of 
St.  Mary  le  Bow,  or  simply  Bow  Church  (so  named  after  an  earlier 
church  on  the  same  site  borne  by  stone  arches^  one  of  Wren's  best 
works,  with  a  tower  235  ft.  high.  The  tower,  at  the  top  of  which 
is  a  dragon  9  ft.  long,  is  especially  admirable ;  'no  other  modern  ^ 
steeple*,  says  Fergusson,  'can  compare  with  this ,  either  for  beauty  ) 
of  outline  or  the  appropriateness  with  which  classical  details  are 
applied  to  so  novel  a  purpose*.  The  church  has  a  fine  old  Norman 
crypt.  Persons  born  within  the  sound  of  Bow-bells  are  popularly 
called  Cockneys,  i.e.  true  Londoners. 

A  curious  old  rhyming  couplet  foretold  that:  — 

*When  the  Exchange  grasshopper  and  dragon  from  Bow 
Shall  meet  —  in  London  shall  be  much  woe." 

This  improbable  meeting  actually  took  place  in  1832,  when  the  two 
vanes  were  sent  to  the  same  yard  for  repairs. 

The  eedesiastieal  Court  of  Arches  takes  its  name  from  having  origin- 
ally met  in  the  vestry  of  this  church. 

On  the  W.  wall  of  the  church  is  an  inscription  referring  to  Hilton, 
removed  from  the  church  of  All  Hallows  (see  p.  105)  on  its  destruction. 

To  the  E.  of  St.  Mary  le  Bow  Queen  Street,  on  the  right  (S.), 
leads  to  Southwark  Bridge  (p.  131);  while  King  Street,  on  the 
left  (N.),  leads  to  Oresham  Street  and  the  Guildhall  (p.  108).  In 
Gresham  Street,  to  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  Guildhall  Yard,  stands 
the  Church  of  St,  Lawrence  Jewry  (open  daily,  11-4),  built  by  AVren 
in  1671-80  and  containing  the  tomb  and  monument  of  Archbp. 
Tillotson  (d.  1694),  who  was  lecturer  here  for  30  years.  A  stained- 
glass  window  (unveiled  in  1900)  commemorates  Sir  Thomas  More 
(see  above),  who  is  represented  in  his  chancellor's  robes.  The  Lord 
Mayor  and  Corporation  attend  service  at  this  church  on  Michaelmas 
Day,  before  electing  the  new  Lord  Mayor.  The  fountain  to  the  N. 
of  the  church,  with  sculptures  by  Joseph  Durham  (iSQ&),  commem- 
orates the  pious  benefactors  of  the  parishes  of  St.  Lawrence  Jewry 
and  St.  Mary  Magdalen  from  1375  to  1765. 

t  Some  authorities  believe  this  stood  to  the  N.  of  Cheapside,  ad- 
joining Saddlers'  Hall. 


108  4.  GUILDHALL.  37i«  City, 

The  preaent  OmldliaU  (PI.  R.  39 ;  III),  or  Council  Hall  of  the  City, 
was  originally  erected  in  1411-39  for  the  sittings  of  the  magistrates 
and  municipal  corporation,  on  the  site  of  an  older  hall  used  for  a 
similar  purpose.  It  was  seriously  injured  by  the  great  fire  of  1666, 
but  immediately  restored.  The  unpleasing  front  towards  Guildhall 
Yard  was  erected  in  1789  from  designs  by  the  younger  Danee^  with 
the  exception  of  the  porch,  which  dates  from  1426.  Above  the 
latter  are  the  arms  of  the  city,  with  the  motto,  Domine  dirige  nos. 

The  numerous  pigeons  which  congregate  in  the  nooks  and  crannies 
of  the  Guildhall,  or  fly  about  the  yard,  will  remind  the  traveller  of  the 
famous  pigeons  of  St.  Hark  at  Venice.    They  are  fed  daUy  about  12.30  p.m. 

Gomp.  ^Descriptive  Account  of  the  Ouildhall  of  the  Gitj  of  London*, 
by  John  E.  Price  (folio,  1S86).    Guide  to  the  Guildhall,  6(2.  (1905). 

The  Gbbat  Hall  (open  all  day),  152  ft.  long,  49  V2  ft-  broad,  and 
89  ft.  high,  is  now  used  for  various  municipal  meetings,  the  election 
of  the  Lord  Mayor,  Sheriffs,  and  members  of  parliament,  and  public 
meetings  of  the  citizens  of  London  to  consider  questions  of  great 
social  or  political  interest.  Every  9th  of  November  the  Lord  Mayor 
and  Sheriffs,  on  the  occasion  of  their  accession  to  office,  give  a  great 
public  dinner  here  to  the  members  of  the  Cabinet,  the  chief  civic 
dignitaries,  an^  others,  which  is  generally  attended  by  nearly  1000 
guests.  The  speeches  made  by  the  King's  Ministers  on  this  and 
other  civic  occasions  are  scanned  attentively,  as  often  possessing  no 
little  political  significance.  —  In  this  hall  took  place  the  trials  of 
Anne  Askew  (burned  at  Smithfleld  in  1546),  the  Earl  of  Surrey 
(154TJ,  Lady  Jane  Grey  (1554),  and  others. 

The  open  timber  roof  is  very  handsome;  it  dates  from  a  restora- 
tion of  the  hall  in  1864-70.  The  stained-glass  window  at  the  E.  end 
was  presented  by  the  Lancashire  operatives  in  acknowledgment  of 
the  City  of  London's  generosity  during  the  Cotton  Famine  (1862-65)5 
that  at  the  W.  end  is  a  memorial  of  the  late  Prince  Consort.  The 
subjects  of  the  other  windows  are  taken  from  the  history  of  the 
city.  By  the  N.  wall  are  monuments  to  Lord  Chatham,  by  Bacon; 
Wellington,  by  Bell;  and  Nelson,  by  Smith.  On  the  S.  wall  are 
monuments  to  William  Pitt,  by  Bubb,  and  Lord  Mayor  Beckford, 
by  Moore  (bearing  on  the  pedestal  the  mayor's  famous  address  to 
George  III.,  which  some  writers  affirm  was  never  actually  deliv- 
ered). The  screen  and  gallery  at  the  W.  end  were  designed  by  Sir 
Horace  Jones  in  1864.  The  two  fanciful  wooden  figures  (I4V2  f*. 
high)  above,  carved  by  Saunders  in  1708,  are  called  Oog  (on  the 
left)  and  Magog  (on  the  right).  Their  predecessors,  made  of  wicker- 
work  and  usually  carried  in  the  Lord  Mayor's  procession,  dated  from 
the  reign  of  Henry  V,  and  were  destroyed  in  the  Great  Fire. 

The  legends  concerning  Gog  and  Magog  are  very  contradictoty.  One 
account  decribei  them  as  the  last  survivors  of  a  race  of  evil  gi.ints  in- 
habiting Albion  and  finally  overcome  by  the  Trojans  on  their  arrival  in 
that  island  about  1000  B.C.  Other  authorities  make  them  fight  on  the  side 
of  the  Trojans,  the  legendary  founders  of  London  (^New  Troy*).  Accord- 
ing to  a  third  version  the  figures  represent  Corineus,  a  British  giant,  and 
Gogmagog,  a  rival  slain  by  him  —  the  confusion  of  the  names  be'ng  ex- 


The  City.  4.  GUILDn  ALI .  109 

plained  by  the  lapse  of  time.    The  names  Qog  and  Magog  occur  several 
times  in  the  Bible. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Great  Hall  is  the  entrance  to  the  council 
chambers.  Yiritors  apply  for  admission  at  the  keeper's  office,  on 
the  left.  The  yestibnles  contain  bnsts  of  Gobden,  Gladstone,  Bea- 
consfleld,  Granville  Sharp  (by  Chantrey)^  etc.  The  Common  Coun- 
cil Ghambbb,  erected  from  the  plans  of  Sir  Horace  Jones  in  1884, 
is  a  handsomely  decorated  twelve-sided  apartment ,  54  ft.  in  dia- 
meter, covered  vrith  a  dome  surmounted  by  an  oak  lantern,  81^2  f^* 
above  the  floor.  The  clerestory  windows  of  the  dome  represent  the 
cardinal  virtues;  above  are  frescoes  depicting  the  crafts  of  24  of 
the  livery  companies,  surmounted  by  their  arms.  The  chamber  pro- 
per is  separated  from  a  surrounding  corridor  by  richly  carved  screens, 
glazed  with  the  arms  of  the  53  remaining  companies.  Above  the 
corridor  is  the  public  gallery.  The  chamber  contains  a  statue  of 
George  III.,  by  Chantrey,  and  several  royal  busts.  The  Aldbambn's 
Court  Boom  (17th  cent.)  contains  a  ceiling  painted  by  ThomhUl, 
and  carved  panels  and  stained-glasa  windows  exhibiting  the  arms  of 
various  Lord  Mayors.  The  royal  arms  above  the  Lord  Mayor's  chair 
are  believed  to  be  unique  in  including  the  arms  of  Hanover  ensigned 
with  the  'electoral  bonnet'.  The  Old  Council  Chambbs,  now  used 
for  the  sittings  of  the  Lord  Mayor's  Court,  dates  from  1777.  It  con- 
tains portraits,  by  Jos,  Wright^  of  the  judges  who  settled  the  various 
claims  arising  from  the  Great  Fire  in  16B6.  —  The  interesting  old 
Cryvtt  borne  by  clustered  columns  of  Purbeck  marble,  is  now, 
with  the  porch,  almost  the  sole  relic  of  the  original  Guildhall  of 
1411-31  (apply  to  beadle  in  the  great  hall). 

The  Lib&abt  and  the  Musbum  below  it  are  reached  by  a  corridor 
leading  to  the  E.  from  the  porch  of  the  Guildhall.  There  is  another 
entrance  from  Basinghall  Street. 

The  Ouildhall  Library,  or  Fru  Library  of  the  Corporation  of  the  City  of 
London  (open  daily,  10-8,  Sat.  10-6),  conUina  above  134,000  volamefl  and 
pamphlets,  tncludins  several  good  specimens  of  early  printing,  and  a  large 
and  valuable  coUeetlon  of  works  on  or  connected  with  London,  its  history, 
antiquities,  and  famous  citizens.  The  special  collections  include  the  library 
of  the  old  Dutch  Church  in  Austin  Friars  (p.  115),  a  Hebrew  library  (cata- 
logue, 1891),  the  libraries  of  the  Glockmakers*,  Cooks',  and  Oardeners* 
Companies,  a  very  fine  coUeetion  of  maps  and  plans  of  London,  the  Ka- 
tional  Dickens  Library,  the  Cock  Memorial  Library  of  books  by  or  relat- 
ing to  Sir  Thomas  More,  and  the  Willshire  collection  of  prints.  The  frin- 
cipai  Library^  a  handsome  hall  built  in  the  Perpendicular  style  in  1871-72, 
is  100  ft.  long  and  66  ft.  wide,  and  is  divided  into  nave  and  aisles  by  ar- 
cades. On  the  elaborate  timber  ceiling  are  the  arms  of  the  twelve  great 
City  Companies  (p.  72)  and  of  the  Leathersellers  and  Broderers.  The  spandrels 
of  the  arcades  bear  sculptured  heads  of  famous  representatives  of  the  various 
branches  of  literature,  art,  and  science.  The  N.  stained-glass  window  illus- 
trates the  Introduction  of  Printing  into  England;  the  S.  window  is  emblazoned 
with  the  arms  of  21  minor  livery  companies;  while  the  windows  of  the 
aisles  and  clerestory  respectively  display  the  signs  of  the  /.odiac  and  the 
planetary  symbols.  English  and  foreign,  directories  as  well  as  the  leading 
English  newspapers  and  trade  journals  may  be  consulted  in  the  Jfewtpc^Kr 
Roomy  to  the  8.  of  this  hall.  —  At  the  S.  end  of  the  principal  library, 
which  we  traverse  on  our  way  to  the  mu.oeum,  is  a  collection  of  corpora- 


110  4.  GUILDHALL.  The  City) 

tion  and  livery  badges  and  civic  and  other  medals.  —  In  the  following 
room  is  an  interesting  collection  of  ancient  chronometers,  clocks,  watches, 
and  watch-movements,  belonging  to  the  Clockmakers'  Company.  Thence 
we  descend  to  the  museum  by  a  staircase,  on  which  are  three  stone  stafcaes 
from  ihe  facade  of  the  old  Gnildhall  chapel;  a  glass-case  containing  biblio- 
graphical curiosities;  etc. 

The  'Museum  (adm.,  see  p.  82),  on  the  sunk  floor,  contains  a  collec- 
tion of  Roman,  Saxon,  and  mediasval  antiquities  found  in  London.  At  the 
S.  end  are  the  medittval  antiquities,  among  which  is  a  curious  collection 
of  old  London  shop  and  tavern  signs  Cl7th  cent),  including  (at  the  foot  of 
the  staircase)  that  of  the  Boar's  Head  in  Eastcheap  (dated  1668*,  the  tavern 
is  mentioned  by  Shakspeare;  conip.  p.  122).  In  the  8.E.  corner  (above)  are 
figures  of  Raving  and  Melancholy  Madness,  by  C.  O.  (Hhb^^  from  the  entrance 
of  old  Bethlehem  Hospital.  —  The  Roman  antiquities,  in  the  }f.  half  of  the 
museum,  include  a  group  of  the  DesR  Matres,  found  at  Crutched  Friars  \ 
a  hexagonal  funeral  column,  from  Ludgate  Hill;  a  fine  Roman  tesselated 
pavement,  from  Bucklersbury  (1869);  a  sarcophagus  of  the  4th  cent.,  from 
Clapton ;  the  statue  of  a  Roman  warrior  and  some  architectural  antiquities 
found  in  a  bastion  of  the  old  Roman  wall  in  Bishopsgate;  and  a  large 
collection  of  smaller  antiquities :  terracotta  figures,  lamps,  vases,  dishes, 
goblets,  trinkets,  spoons,  pin§,  needles,  etc.  —  Two  table-cases  near  the  stair- 
case contain  autographs,  including  those  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  Cromwell, 
Wellington,  and  Nelson.  Other  cases  contain  excellent  specimens  of  old 
English  pottery ;  and  one  (below  the  window)  has  glass  of  various  periods, 
including  (at  the  top)  a  so-called  *yard  of  ale\  By  a  column  in  the  N.  ar- 
cade are  the  whipping  -  post  and  other  articles  transferred  hither  in  19C2 
from  the  *Black  Museum'  at  Newgate  (p.  97).  *—  Illustrated  catalogue,  2s. 

The  Go&POBATiON  A&t  Galleby  (adm.,  see  p.  82),  entered 
from  Guildhall  Yard  by  a  door  to  the  right  of  the  main  porch,  was 
established  in  1886.  Besides  the  chief  historical  portraits  and  other 
paintings  previously  in  the  possession  of  the  Corporation,  It  in- 
cludes over  100  works  by  Bit  John  Gilbert  (d.  1897),  presented  by 
the  artist  and  his  brother,  and  numerous  otiier  bequests  and  dona- 
tions, the  chief  of  which  is  the  Gassiot  Bequest  of  112  works  of 
modern  British  art,  yalued  at  90,000.'.  Each  picture  bears  the  name 
of  its  artist  and  subject.   We  mention  some  of  the  principal  works. 

Qallrbt  I.  Opposite  the  entrance  is  a  marble  statue  of  Sir  Henry 
Irving,  by  Ontlote  Ford.  To  the  left:  fc'52.  Ed.  Cooke^  Dutch  shipping;  684. 
/.  C.  Hooky  Deep-sea  fishing;  843.  Ooetze^  Portrait  of  J.  L.  Toole,  the  actor; 
W.  J.  MUlkry  828.  Slave-market  at  Cairo,  ♦704.  Gillingham;  •647.  Wm.  Col- 
Kns,  Nutting-party;  734.  Clarkson  Btanfield^  The  Victory  being  towed  into 
Gibraltar;  830.  D.  Maclite.,  Banquet  scene  in  *MacbetV;  •646.  C7o«*i«,  Bor- 
rowdale;  695;  Wlney  Cooper,  Landscape  with  cattle:  •634.  Gilbert^  The  Knight- 
errant  (water  colourV,  Til.  John  Phillip^  Chat  rouna  the  brasero  ^^S7jU>ove), 
Hd.  Armitage^  Herod  s  feast;  722.  Mar  cut  Stone^  On  the  road  from  Waterloo 
to  Paris ;  527.  Gilbert^  Sir  Lancelot  du  Lake.  —  41.  /.  S.  Copley,  Defeat  of 
the  Spanish  floating  batteries  at  Gibraltar  in  1782,  an  immense  canvas  oc- 
cupying the  entire  end  of  the  gallery.  —  660.  Wm.  Dyce^  George  Herbert  at 
Beinerton ;  *720.  D.  Roberts,  Edinburgh  from  the  Calton  Hill ;  •693.  F,  R.  Lee, 
The  miller's  boat;  Sir  John  Millau,  ;702.^y  second  sermon,  *701  (farther 
on).  My  first  sermon;  Slanfield^  7S0.  CT  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  73r.  Men  o'-war 
off  Portsmouth,  •729.  Old  Holland,  733.  On  the  Texel.  Above,  653.  E.  Cooke, 
Salerno;  'eSS.  /.  C.  Hook.  Sea-urchins ;  637.  Alma  Tadema,  The  Pyrrhic 
dance;  710.  John  Phillip,  Faith;  700.  J.  lAnnell,  Sen.,  Changing  pastures; 
727.  Slingeneyer,  A  Christian  martyr;  W.  Collin*,  643.  Barmouth  Sands,  645. 
Shrimp  boys  at  Cromer ;  *t&%.  Sir  John  Gilbert,  A  bishop ;  639.  James  Archer, 
My  great-grandmother. 

We  now  ascend  the  steps  to  the  gallery.  Water-colours  by  Sir  John 
Gilbert  (n2i.  A  standard  bearer);   333.    Walter  Goldtmi'h,  The  Thames   at 


The  City.  4.  GRESHAM  COLLEGE.  Ill 

Bray  s  624.  P/iilip  Norman^  Staple  Inn,  Holborn j  614  (above),  0.  0.  Manton^ 
The  wife  of  Jeroboam  and  the  Blind  Prophet}  773.  H.  T.  WelU^  Quarrymen 
of  Purbeck;  677.  Hon.  John  ColHer.  Glytemnestra. 

Oallbbt  II.  To  the  left:  834.  Hugh  Carter^  Hard  times «  *683.  H. 
Koekkoek,  A  calm ;  693.  Leadtr,  The  eharcbyard  at  Bettws-y-Goed ;  P.  Natmythy 
*706.  The  meeting  of  the  Avon  and  Severn,  707  (farther  on),  Vievr  in 
Hampshire-,  672.  W.  H.  Qore^  'Listed;  "649.  Con$t€ibU.  Fording  the  river: 
^^^emdteer.  The  travelled  monkey?  T.  Webttery  *746^  The  smile,  .•74g. 
•^(flrlLcr  on),  The  frown?  718.  Z).  RobeHs.  88.  Giovanni  e  Paolo,  Venice? 
648.  ColUnM,  The  kitten  deceived?  706.  P,  ITatmyth,  Watermiil,  Carshalton? 
719.  D.  BoberUj  The  Forum  at  Borne.  —  Beyond  the  passage  to  Gallery  III: 
668.  Willem  Otet*^  Charles  V.  and  Jeanne  Vandergeyost  before  the  cradle 
of  tbe'.r  daughter  Marguerite?  678.  KteUf  HaUiceUe^  The  fan  seller?  J.  C. 
Hook,  681.  Caught  by  the  tide,  685.  The  Bonxie,  Shetland?  473.  0,  A.  Storey, 
The  violinist?  666.  Tho*.  Fatd,  A  highland  gipsy?  679.  HcOswette^TYit  Spanish 
letter  writer.  —  '771.  La  Thangue,  Mowing  bracken?  •616.  Wpllie,  Com- 
merce  and  sea  power?  610.  T.  H.  McLacMan,  The  isles  of  the  sea?  618. 
Andrew  C.  Oow,  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  on  Queen  Victoria's  Diamond  Jubilee 
(June  2'2nd,  1897?  numerous  portraits)?  636.  H.  S.  Take,  Ruby,  gold,  and 
malachite  ;^g2Sb^<'^«r^  Ego  et  Rex  Meus.  —767.  Briton  Riviire.  The  Temp- 
tation in  the  Wilderness  ?  636.  Bacon,  The  City  of  London  Imperial  Volunteers' 
return  to  London  from  South  Africa,  on  Oct.  29th,  iWO;  634.  Arnesby 
Brown,  The  river  bank.  —  We  return  to  the  passage  leading  to  Gallery  III. 
On  the  right,  drawings  by  Sir  John  Gilbert.  On  the  left:  718.  Phillip, 
^Dolores':  642.  Bovghton,  Returning  from  church?  644.  Collins,  The  pet 
lamb?  741.  Webster,  The  playground?  Creswick,  668.  Evening,  667.  A  sylvan 
stream?  737.   Titsot,  The  last  evening?  297.  /.  Seymour  Z«ca*,  Flirtation. 

GAI.LBBT  III.  Left,  A.  Viekers,  740,  789.  Landscapes?  728-726  (two  on 
the  opposite  wall),  Alf.  Stevens,  Allegorical  figures  of  the  seaaons?  829. 
OsbomSf  An  October  morning  ?  617.  MeLachlem,  A  shepherdess.  —  741.  Yiekers, 
Haddon  Hall?  695.  0.  J).  Leslie.  Sun  and  moon  flowe-s?  620.  TopJian^  The 
shepherd's  meal?  714.  PMllip,  The  huff.  —  Sir  John  Oilbert,  •638.  The  witch, 
774.  The  ford,  533.  An  armed  host?  667.  Faed,  Forgiven.  —  661.  Byee^ 
Henry  VI.  dunng  the  batUe  of  Towton?  712.  PhttUp,  A  la  Beja?  610.  Gilberty 
War:  After  the  battle?  662.  Aug.  Egg,  Autolycus.  ~  On  the  next  wall  is 
a  case  of  miniatures.  689.  Alma  Tadema,  Pleading.  —  Gilbert,  637.  The 
Battle  of  the  Standardv636.  Charcoal  burners,  636.  Cardinal  WolTey  "going 
in  procession  to  WcstmTnster  Hall.  — 

Gallbbt  IV  contains  chiefly  naval,  military,  and  royal  portraits.  Also 
portraits  of  William  Godwin,  by  Piekersgill;  Charles  Lamb,  by  Wm.  HaxUtt ; 
and  William  Haalitt,  by  E.  F,  Green. 

In  Aldermanbuiy,  to  the  W.  of  the  Guildball,  Is  the  Church  of 
St,  ^ory,  AldermanbuTy ,  containing  the  tomb  of  Lord  Jeffreys 
^.^68yJ,  of  the  'Bloody  Assizes'.  Milton  was  married  here  to  his 
second  wife  in  1656.  Heminge  and  Condell,  Shakspeare's  brother  ■ 
actors,  who  pnblished  the  first  folio  edition  of  his  plays  (1623), 
are  commemorated  by  a  monument  in  the  churchyard  (1896). 

Love  Lane  leads  hence  to  the  W.  to  St.  Alban's  (open  1-2),  a  small  church 
by  Wren  (1686),  with  a  curious  old  hour-glass  fixed  above  the  pulpit.  — 
In  Addle  Street,  to  the  N.  of  Love  Lane,  is  Brewers'  Hall  (daily  11  3,  Sat. 
11-1),  containing  an  ancient  kitchen  and  a  curiously  decorated  leaden 
cistern.  —  Silver  Street  continues  Addle  Street  to  Monkwell  Street,  in 
which  is  situated  the  Barbers^  Hall  (formerly  Barber-Surgeons'  ?  PI.  R.  40, 
///).  Among  the  curiosities  preserved  here  are  a  valuable  work  by  Hol- 
bein (at  least  in  part),  representing  Henry  VIII.  renewing  the  company^s 
charter  in  1611,  and  a  portrait  of  inigo  Jones  by  Van  Dyck  (adm.  on  ap- 
plication to  a  member). 

At  the  comer  of  Basinghall  Street,  to  the  E.  of  the  Guildhall, 
stands  Gresham  College,  founded  by  Sir  Thomai  Oresham  (p.  115) 


112  4.    MANSION  HOUSE.  The  City. 

in  1579  for  the  delWeiy  of  lectaies  by  seyen  pxofessoTB ,  on  law, 
divinity,  medicine,  ihetoric,  geometry,  astronomy,  and  masic. 

The  lectttrM  were  delivered  in  Gresham's  house  in  Bishopagate  Street 
until  1768)  when  it  was  taken  down  and  the  lectare0  were  transferred  to 
the  Boyal  Exchange.  The  present  hall  was  erected  in  1843  out  of  the 
accumulated  capital  of  Gresham's  bequest.  The  lecture-theatre  can  hold 
600  persons.  According  to  Gresham's  will,  some  of  the  lectures  were  to 
be  delivered  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  in  Latin,  but  the  speakers 
now  deliver  their  courses  of  four  lectures  each  in  English,  at  6  p.m.  (free). 
-^  The  Boyal  Society  held  its  meetings  at  Oresham  College  from  1860  to 
1710.  It  now  contains  the  head-ofUce  of  the  CUp  and  Guilds  of  London 
Institute  (see  p.  xxxiii). 

From  Gresbam  College  we  return  to  Obeapside  by  Ironmonger 
Lane,  in  wbicb  is  the  entrance  to  Mercers'  Hall  (no  adm.),  tbe  guild- 
bouse  of  tbe  silk  mercers,  rebuilt  in  1884,  tbe  facade  of  wbicb  is  in 
Obeapside.  Tbe  interior  contains  portraits  of  Dean  Colet,  founder 
of  St.  PauVs  Scbool,  and  Sir  Tbomas  Gresbam,  founder  of  tbe  £x- 
cbange,  as  well  as  a  few  relics  of  Sir  Ricbard  Wbittington.  The 
*Legb  Cup'  (1499),  used  at  tbe  Company's  banquets,  is  one  of  tbe 
finest  pieces  extant  of  Englisb  medlsval  plate.  Tbe  cbapel,  wbicb 
is  adorned  witb  modern  frescoes  of  Becket's  Martyrdom  and  the 
Ascension,  occupies  tbe  site  of  tbe  bouse  in  wbicb  Tbomas  Becket 
was  born  in  1119,  and  where  a  hospital  and  cbapel  were  erected  to 
bis  memory  about  tbe  year  1190.  Henry  YIII.  afterwards  granted 
tbe  hospital  to  tbe  Mercers,  who  bad  been  Incorporated  in  1393. 

Old  Jewry ,  to  the  E.  of  Mercers*  Hall ,  derives  its  name  froni 
tbe  synagogue  wbicb  stood  here  prior  to  tbe  persecution  of  the 
Jews  in  1291.  On  its  site,  close  to  tbe  Bank,  now  stands  the  Grocers' 
Hally  tbe  guildbouse  of  tbe  Grocers,  or,  as  they  were  once  called, 
tbe  ^Pepperers'  (adm.  on  written  application  to  tbe  wardens).  This 
company  is  one  of  tbe  oldest  in  London  (incorporated  1345).  At 
No.  26  Old  Jewry  are  the  headquarters  of  the  City  Police.  Old 
Jewry  is  continued  towards  tbe  N»  by  Coleman  Street,  in  Which,  on 
tbe  right,  is  situated  the  Armourera'  Hall  (PI.  R,  40 ;  ///),  founded 
about  1450,  spared  by  tbe  fire  of  1666,  and  rebuilt  in  1840  (adm. 
on  introduction  from  a  member).  It  contains  an  interesting  and 
valaable  collection  of  armour  and  old  plate,  including  a  tilting 
gauntlet  made  to  lock  fast  over  the  spear. 

The  continuation  of  Obeapside  towards  tbe  E.  is  called  the 
PouLTBY,  once  tbe  street  of  tbe  poulterers.  Tbe  modern  terracotta 
panels  on  No.  14  refer  to  royal  processions  that  passed  through  the 
street  in  1546,  1561,  1660,  and  1844.  At  tbe  farther  end  of  the 
Poultry,  on  the  right,  rises  tbe  Mansion  House  (PL  R,  89 ;  II I),  the 
official  residence  of  tbe  Lord  Mayor  during  bis  year  of  office,  erected 
by  Dance  in  1739-52.  Lord  Burlington  sent  in  a  design  by  the 
famous  Italian  architect  Palladio,  which  was  rejected  on  tbe  na'iye 
question  of  one  of  the  aldermen  —  *Who  was  Palladio  —  was  he  a 
freeman  of  the  city?'  Tbe  tympanum  of  tbe  Corlntbian  bexastyle 
portico  contains  an  allegorical  relief  by  Sir  Robert  Taylor, 


The  aty.  5.  BANK  OF  ENGLAND,  113 

In  the  interior,  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  is  the  Lord  Mayor's  police* 
court,  open  to  the  public  daily  from  12  to  2.  The  state  and  reception 
rooms  are  shown  on  presentation  of  the  visitor's  card  to  the  hall  porter. 
The  principal  room  is  the  Egyptian  Hall^  in  which  the  Lord  Mayor  gives 
his  banquets  and  balls,  said  to  be  a  reproduction  of  the  hall  described 
under  that  name  by  Vitruvius.  It  is  90  ft.  long  and  60  ft.  wide  and  the 
vaulted  ceiling  is  supported  by  fluted  columns.  The  large  windows  are 
filled  with  stained  glass,  and  the  hall  contains  several  pieees  of  modern 
English  sculpture:  *Caractacus  and  the  nymph  Egeria,  hj  Foley;  Genius 
and  the  Morning  Star,  by  Baily ;  Comus,  by  Lough;  Qriselda,  by  Marthail. 
Other  rooms  are  the  Saloon^  adorned  with  tapestry  and  sculpture;  the  State 
Drawing  Rooms;  the  Long  Parlour;  the  Venetian  Parlour  or  Lord  Mayors 
business-room;  the  Old  Ball  Room;  etc. 

The  interioi  of  St.  Stephen's  Clinreli,  Walbrook  (open  1-3  daily, 
except  Sat.),  behind  the  Mansion  House,  with  its  graceful  dome 
supported  by  Oorinthian  columns,  is  considered  one  of  Wrens 
masterpieces,  but  has  been  somewhat  marred  by  alterations.  On 
the  N.  wall  hangs  the  Stoning]  of  St.  Stephen ,  one  of  the  best 
works  of  Benjamin  West,  formerly  over  the  altar.  A  tablet  here 
commemorates  J olvn  Dunstable  (d.  1463),  'the  father  of  English  har- 
mony'. Walbrook  leads  direct  to  Cannon  Street  Station  (p.  32). 

Queen  Victoria  Street  (p.  128)  leads  directly  from  the  Mansion 
House  to  Blackfriars  Bridge  (see  p.  127). 

5,    The  Bank  of  England.    The  Exchange. 

Stock  Exchange.  Merchant  Taylors"  Hall.  St.  Helens  Church.  Com'- 
hill.  Leadenhall  Market.  St.  Andrew^s  Vndershaft.   Corn  Exchange. 

The  space  (PI.  R,  39,  43 ;  ///)  enclosed  by  the  Mansion  House, 
the  Bank,  and  the  Exchange  is  the  centre  from  which  radiate  the 
most  important  streets  of  'the  City'.  It  is  also  the  chief  point  of 
convergence  of  the  London  omnibus  traffic,  which  during  business 
hours  is  enormous.  The  subways  in  connection  with  the  Bank  Station 
of  the  tuBe-railways  (p.  33)  enable  foot-passengers  to  cross  the  street 
in  ease  and  safety. 

Opposite  the  Mansion  House,  and  bounded  on  the  S.  by  Thread- 
needle  Street,  on  the  W.  by  Prince's  Street,  on  the  N,  by  Lothbury, 
and  on  the  E.  by  Bartholomew  Lane,  stands  the  Bank  of  England 
(PI.  B,  39,  43 ;  //i),  an  irregular  and  isolated  building  of  one  story 
The  central  nucleus  of  the  building  was  designed  by  Mr,  Oeorge 
Sampson  and  opened  in  1834,  but  the  edifice  as  now  seen  is  mainly 
the  work  of  Sir  John  Soane^  who  was  architect  to  the  Bank  from  1788 
to  1827.  The  external  walls  are  entirely  devoid  of  windows,  the 
Bank  being,  for  the  sake  of  security,  lighted  from  interior  courts. 
The  only  attractive  portion  of  the  architecture  is  at  the  N.W.  angle, 
which  was  copied  from  the  Temple  of  the  Sibyl  at  Tivoli.  The 
garden-court  in  the  interior  was  formerly  the  churchyard  of  St.  Chris- 
topher-le-Stocks.   The  edifice  covers  an  area  of  about  four  acres. 

The  Bank  was  founded  in  1694,  the  first  suggestion  of  it  appar- 
ently emanating  from  William  Paterson,  a  Scotsman,  though,  perhaps, 

Baedekbb's  London.    15th  Edit.  8 


114  5.  STOCK  EXCHANGE.  The  City, 

his  importance  in  the  matter  has  been  over-estimated.  It  is  a  joint 
stock  bank,  and  vras  the  first  of  the  kind  established  in  the  king- 
dom. Having  exclusive  privileges,  secured  by  Royal  Charter,  it 
continued  to  be  the  only  joint-stock  bank  in  London  till  1834,  when 
the  London  and  Westminster  Bank,  soon  to  be  followed  by  many 
others,  was  established.  The  Bank  of  England  is  the  only  bank  in 
London  which  has  the  power  of  issuing  paper  money.  Its  original 
capital  was  1,200,000^,  which  has  since  been  multiplied  more  than 
twelvefold.  The  number  of  persons  employed  within  its  walls  is 
about  1000.  The  vaults  usually  contain  at  least  20  million  pounds 
sterling  in  gold  and  silver,  while  there  are  over  25  millions  of  pounds 
sterling  of  the  Bank's  notes  in  circulation.  The  Bank  acts  as  the 
agent  of  Government  in  all  business  transactions  connected  with  the 
national  debt  (now  amounting  to  over  774,000,000?.),  receives  and 
registers  transfers  of  stock,  and  pays  the  quarterly  dividends  on  the 
various  kinds  of  stock ;  it  also  carries  on  business  like  other  banks 
in  discounting  bills,  receiving  deposits,  and  lending  money.  It  is 
bound  to  buy  all  gold  bullion  brought  to  it,  at  the  rate  of  Si,  17«. 
9d,  per  oz.  The  government  of  the  Bank  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  a 
Deputy-Governor,  and  twenty-four  Directors. 

The  business  offices  of  the  Bank  are  open  to  the  public  daily  from 
9  to  i.  The  Printing,  Weighing,  and  Bullion  Offices  are  no  longer  shown 
to  visitors. 

The  whole  of  the  printing  for  the  Bank  is  done  within  its  walls,  and  up- 
wards of  50,000  new  bank-notes  are  produced  daily,  their  value  ranging  from 
bl.  to  10002.  The  note  printing-presses  are  exceedingly  interesting.  Postal 
orders  and  Indian  bank-notes  are  also  printed  here.  All  notes  paid  into 
the  Bank  are  at  once  cancelled,  so  that  in  some  cases  the  active  life  of  a 
bank-note  may  not  be  longer  than  a  single  day.  The  cancelled  notes, 
however,  are  kept  for  five  years  in  the  Old  Note  Office^  in  case  they  may 
be  required  as  testimony  in  a  court  of  law.  Every  week  or  so  the  notes 
received  in  the  corresponding  week  five  years  ago  are  burned;  and  the 
furnace  provided  for  this  purpose,  5ft.  in  height  and  10 ft.  in  diameter, 
is  said  to  be  filled  on  each  occasion.  The  stock  of  paid  notes  for  five 
years  amounts  to  about  80  millions,  weighs  90  tons,  and  represents  a  value 
of  1750  millions  of  pounds  sterling*,  if  the  notes  were  joined  end  to  end  they 
would  form  a  ribbon  13,000  H.  long,  while  their  superficial  extent  would 
almost  equal  that  of  Hyde  Park.  The  Weighing  Office  contains  machines 
for  weighing  sovereigns  (33  per  minute),  which  throw  those  of  fuU  weight 
into  one  compartment  and  the  light  ones  into  another.  A  daily  average 
of  gold  to  the  value  of  80,000;.  is  thus  tested.  The  Bullion  Office  is  the 
treasury  for  the  precious  metals.  The  Bank  is  protected  at  night  by  a 
small  guard  of  soldiers,  in  addition  to  a  large  staff  of  superintendents 
and  warders. 

In  Post  Office  Court,  Lombard  Street,  is  the  Bankers^  Clearing  Houee^ 
a  useful  institution  through  which  bankers  obtain  the  amount  of  cheques 
and  bills  in  their  hands  without  the  trouble  of  collecting  them  at  the 
various  banks  on  which  they  are  drawn.  The  bills  and  cheques  received 
by  the  various  bankers  during  the  day  are  here  compared,  and  the 
difference  settled  by  a  cheque  on  the  Bank  of  England.  The  amount 
changing  hands  here  is  enormous,  reaching  in  the  year  ending  Dec.  81st, 
1908,  the  sum  of  12,711,334,000/.  or  423,399,003?.  more  than  in  1905. 

In  Capel  Court,  opposite  the  Bank ,  is  the  Stock  Exchange, 
the  members  of  which,  about  5300  in  number,  are  about  equally 
divided  between  Stock-brokers  and  Stock-Jobbers,  The  jobber'  con- 


The  City,  5.  ROYAL  EXCHANGE.  115 

fines  his  dealings  to  some  particular  group  of  securities ;  the  ^broker* 
is  the  intermediary  between  the  public  and  the  jobbers.  The  Stock 
Exchange  (familiarly  known  in  the  City  as  Hhe  house')  was  estab- 
lished in  1801  and  opened  in  1802.  Strangers  are  rigorously  ex- 
cluded. 

The  Exchange  as  a  building  belongs  to  a  body  of  about  1760  share- 
holders, and  is  managed  by  nine  elected  Managtn  and  Trtuteet^  to  whom 
are  paid  the  entrance  fees  and  annual  subscriptions.  —  The  members  of 
the  Exchange  are  entiiely  distinct  from  these  proprietors  and  appoint  a 
Ccmmittee  for  Oeneral  Purpotes  to  regulate  tie  methods  in  which  business 
is  carried  on.  Members  pay  an  entrance-fee  of  500  guineas  and  nn  annual 
subscription  of  40  guineas,  and  must  find  security  for  1600/.  for  their  first 
four  years.  For  'authorized  clerks^  the  entrance- fee  is  60  guineas  and  the 
annaal  subscription  30  guineas. 

In  Throgmorton  Street,  to  the  N.  of  the  Stock  Exchange,  is  the 
Drapers^  Hall,  dating  originally  from  1667  but  in  great  part  rebuilt 
in  1866-70  ('visitors  usually  admitted  on  presentation  of  visiting- 
card).  It  contains  a  portrait  of  Nelson  by  Sir  WiUiam  Beeeheyy  and 
a  picture  by  Zuechero,  believed  to  represent  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots, 
and  her  sou  James  I.  Adjoining  is  the  Drapers'  Garden,  contain- 
ing one  or  two  old  mulberry-trees.  —  The  Dutch  Church  in  Austin 
Friars,  behind  the  Drapers'  Hall,  dates  from  the  14th  cent,  and 
escaped  the  fire  of  1666.  It  was  restored  in  1863-66,  after  a  fire, 
and  contains  numerous  tombs  of  the  14-l6th  centuries. 

The  Ecyftl  Exchange  (PI.  R,  43 ;  III),  built  in  1842-44  by  Tite, 
is  the  third  building  of  the  kind  on  the  same  site.  The  first  Exchange, 
erected  in  1564-70  by  Sir  Thomas  Gresham,  was  destroyed  in  the 
Great  Fire  (1666),  and  its  successor,  by  Jarman,  was  also  burned 
down  in  1838.  The  present  building  which  cost  about  160,000^.,  is 
preceded  by  a  Corinthian  portico,  and  approached  by  a  broad  flight 
of  steps.  The  group  in  the  tympanum  is  by  Westmaeott :  in  the 
centre  is  Commerce,  holding  the  charter  of  the  Exchange  in  her 
hand;  on  the  right  the  Lord  Mayor,  municipal  officials,  an  Indian, 
an  Arab,  a  Greek,  and  a  Turk ;  on  the  left  English  merchants,  a 
Chinese,  a  Persian,  a  Negro,  etc.  On  the  architrave  below  is  the 
inscription :  ^The  Earth  is  the  Lord's  and  the  fulness  thereof. 

The  interior  of  the  Exchange  forms  a  quadrangular  covered 
court  surrounded  by  colonnades.  The  tesselated  pavement  of  Tur- 
key stone  is  the  original  one  of  Gresham's  Exchange.  In  the  centre 
is  a  statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  by  Hamo  Thomycroft;  in  the  N.E. 
and  S.E.  corners  are  statues  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  by  Watson,  and 
Charles  II.  The  22  panels  of  the  walls  of  the  colonnades  are  to  be 
filled  with  historical  paintings  typifying  Liberty,  Commerce,  and 
Education. 

Fifteen  of  these  are  completed.  To  the  left  from  the  main  entrance: 
Ancient  Commerce  (Phoenicians  bartering  with  the  Ancient  Britons  in  Corn- 
wall),  by  Lord  Leighton;  London  receiving  its  charter  from  William  the 
Conqueror,  by  Seymour  Lucas;  King  John  sealing  the  lUaf^na  Charta,  by 
Ernest  Normand:  Lord  Mayor  entertaining  five  kings  in  1363,  by  A.  Che- 
vallier  Tayler;  Sir  Richard  Whiitington  dispensing  his  charities,  by  Uen- 
rietia  Rae  (Mrs.  Normand);  Reconciliation  of  the  Skinners^  and  Merchant 

8* 


116  5.  LLOYD'S.  The  City, 

Taylors'  Companies  by  the  Lord  Mayor  in  1484,  by  Edwin  A.  Abbey,  R.  A. ; 
Grown  offered  to  Kichard  III.  at  Baynard's  Oastle,  by  8.  Ooeite;  Founda- 
tion of  St.  PaiiVfl  School  in  1509,  by  Wm.  F.  Teames,  R,  A. ;  Queen  Elisabeth 
opening  Gresbam^s  Exchange  in  1571,  by  Ernest  CrofU;  Charles  I.  demand- 
ing the  flye  members  at  Quildhall,  by  8.  J.  Solomon;  The  Fire  of  London, 
by  Stanhope  Forbes;  Granting  the  charter  for  the  foundation  of  the  Bank  of 
England,  by  Oeo.  Sareourt;  Kelson  leaving  England  for  the  last  time,  by 
A.  C.  Qow;  Queen  Victoria  opening  the  present  Exchange,  by  R.  W.  Macbeth ; 
Modem  Commerce,  by  Frank  Brangvfyn. 

The  chief  buBlnesB-lioar  Is  from  3.30  to  4.30  p.m.,  and  the 
most  important  days  are  Tuesdays  and  Fridays.  On  the  front  (£.) 
of  the  campanile  (180  ft.  in  height)  is  a  statue  of  Sir  Thomas 
Gresham,  and  at  the  top  is  a  large  gilded  vane  in  the  shape  of  a 
grasshopper  (Gresham^s  crest).  The  shops  on  the  outside  of  the 
Exchange  greatly  disfigure  the  building.  Nearly  opposite  the  Ex- 
change is  No.  15  Gornhill,  occupied  by  Messrs.  Birch,  confec-> 
tloners,  and  said  to  be  the  oldest  shop  in  London. 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  Exchange  a  staircase,  adorned  with  a 
statue  of  Prince  Albert  by  Lough,  ascends  to  Lloyc^s  Subscription 
Rooms,  commonly  known  as  Lloyd's.  The  name  is  derived  ftom 
a  coffee-house  kept  by  Edward  Lloyd  towards  the  close  of  the  17th 
century  and  frequented  by  men  interested  in  shipping.  Lloyd's  is 
an  association  of  underwriters  (incorporated  in  1871)  for  the  collec- 
tion and  distribution  of  maritime  and  shipping  intelligence  of 
every  kind.  It  has  an  annual  income  of  50,0002.  and  keeps  a  staff 
of  about  1500  agents  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  while  It  maintains 
signal-stations  all  round  the  coast  of  the  United  Kingdom.  It  is  still 
better  known  as  the  great  centre  of  marine  insurance,  each  member 
carrying  on  business  in  this  respect  on  his  individual  responsibility, 
not  in  any  corporate  capacity.  The  newspaper  known  as  ^Lloyd^s 
List'  has  been  published  regularly  since  1721.  —  The  vestibule  is 
adorned  with  a  statue  of  Huskisson  by  Gibson.  On  the  wall  is  a 
tablet  to  the  ^Times'  newspaper,  erected  in  recognition  of  the  public 
service  it  rendered  by  the  exposure  of  a  fraudulent  financial  con- 
spiracy of  gigantic  character.  The  first  room  is  used  by  Under- 
writers and  contains  huge  ledgers  in  which  the  most  detailed  in- 
formation as  to  the  merchant-shipping  of  the  world  is  carefully 
posted  from  day  to  day ;  the  second  is  the  Merchants'  or  Reading 
Room,  with  a  huge  collection  of  provincial  and  foreign  newspapers ; 
the  third  or  ^Captains'  Room'  is  a  restaurant  accessible  only  to  the 
700  members  of  Lloyd's  and  their  friends. 

Lloyd's  must  be  clearly  distinguished  from  Lloyd"*  RegUier  of  British 
and  Foreign  Shipping  (71  Fenchurch  St. ;  p.  121) ,  an  association  of  ship- 
owners, merchants,  and  underwriters,  established  in  1834  with  the  object  of 
securing  an  accurate  classification  of  the  seaworUiiness  of  mercantile  vessels. 
^Lloyd's  Register'  maintains  ship-surveyors  in  every  part  of  the  world  5 
and  Lloyd's  Register  Book  is  published  annually.  Vessels  of  the  best 
description  are  classed  as  A  1. 

In  front  of  the  Exchange  is  an  Equestrian  Statue  of  Wellington, 
by  Chantrey,  erected  in  1844,  beside  which  is  a  fountain  with  a 


The  City.      5.  MERCHANT  TAYLORS'  HALL.  117 

female  figare.  On  the  S.E.  side  of  the  Exchange  is  a  statue  (eieoted 
in  1882)  of  Sir  Rowland  Hill ,  the  inyentor  of  the  cheap  postal 
system.  Behind  the  Exchange  are  a  seated  statne  of  Ptabody 
(d.  1869),  by  Story,  erected  in  1871  by  public  subscription,  and  a 
fountain  with  a  group  by  Dalou  (1879). 

Oeorge  Peabody,  an  American  merobant,  who  earried  on  an  extensive 
busineM  and  spent  mnch  of  his  time  in  London ,  gave  at  different  times 
upwards  of  half  a  million  of  money  for  the  erection  of  suitable  dwellings 
for  the  working  classes  of  the  Metropolis.  The  Peabody  Donation  Fund 
(office,  64  Queen  St.,  E.G.)  is  managed  by  a  body  of  trustees,  now  styled 
the  Governors,  a  royal  charter  having  been  granted  in  1900.  The  number 
of  persons  accommodated  in  the  Peabody  Buildings  is  about  90,000,  each 
family  paying  an  average  weekly  rent  of  about  bs.  2*/i<i.,  which  includes 
the  use  of  baths  and  wash-houses.  The  capital  of  the  fund  now  amounts 
to  over  1,500,000/.  Mr.  Peabody  spent  and  bequeathed  still  larger  sums 
for  educational  and  benevolent  purposes  in  America,  the  grand  total  of 
his  gifts  amounting  to  nearly  2,000,0001.  sterling.  —  The  Gvinneu  Trtut^  a 
similar  fund  established  by  Lord  Iveagh  in  1889  with  a  gift  of  200,0001., 
has  provided  257A  tenements  (5388  rooms)  on  eight  sites  in  different  parts 
of  London,  at  an  average  weekly  rent  of  2t.  i^/id.  per  room. 

Farther  along  Threadneedle  Street,  beyond  Finch  Lane,  is  the 
Merchant  Taylors' Hall,  the  largest  of  the  London  Companies*  halls, 
erected,  after  the  Great  Fire  of  1666,  by  Jarman  (admission  on 
application  to  a  member).  The  company  received  its  first  charter  in 
1327.  The  handsome  hall  contains  some  good  portraits  :  Henry  VIII., 
by  Paris  Bordone ;  Duke  of  York,  by  Lawrence ;  Duke  of  Wellington, 
by  Wilkie;  Charles  I. ;  Charles  II. ;  James  II. ;  William  III. ;  Queen 
Anne ;  George  III.  and  his  consort ;  Lord  Chancellor  Eldon ,  by 
Briggs ;  Pitt,  by  Hoppner.  There  is  also  a  valuable  collection  of  old 
plate.   The  small  but  Interesting  Crypt  was  spared  by  the  Fire. 

Threadneedle  Street  enda  at  Bishopsgate  Street  Within,  in 
which,  near  the  point  of  junction,  is  the  National  Provincial  Bank 
of  England  (No.  112),  which  is  worth  visiting  for  the  beautiful 
interior  of  its  large  hall,  a  remarkable  specimen  of  the  Byzantine- 
Romanesque  style,  with  polished  granite  columns  and  polychrome 
decoration.  Immediately  opposite  is  the  Wesleyan  Centenary  HalL 
Farther  to  the  E.  the  Chartered  Bank  of  India  occupies  the  site  of 
Crosby  HaU, 

Built  in  1466  by  Alderman  Sir  John  Crosby,  and  once  occupied  by  the 
notorious  Duke  of  Gloucester,  afterwards  Richard  III.,  Crosby  Hall  sub- 
sequently belonged  to  Sir  Thomas  More,  and  it  is  mentioned  by  Shakspeare 
in  his  ^Richard  III."  For  a  long  t'me  it  was  used  for  the  reception  of  am- 
bassadors, and  was  considered  the  finest  house  in  London.  During  the 
Protectorate  it  was  a  prison  \  and  it  afterwards  became  in  turn  a  meeting- 
house, a  warehouse,  a  concert  and  lecture  room,  and  finally  a  restaurant. 
It  was  pulled  down  in  1903  (but  comp.  p.  370). 

*St.  Helen's  Clinreli  (open  daily,  except  Sat.,  11.30-4),  the 
^Westminster  Abbey  of  the  City',  was  originally  founded  at  a  very 
early  date  and  afterwards  became  connected  with  a  nunnery  estab- 
lished about  1212  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  St.  Helen's  Place. 
The  present  building,  dating  mainly  from  the  13- 15th  cent.,  was 
restored  in  1891-93  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  John  L.  Pear- 


118  5.  ST.  HELEN'S  OHURCn.  The  City. 

son.  It  coneists  of  two  parallel  naves,  122  ft.  long,  together  with 
a  S.  transept,  adjoined  on  the  E.  hy  two  chapels.  The  S.  nave  was 
used  for  parochial  purposes,  while  that  on  the  N.  was  the  ^nuus* 
choir'  or  church.  In  the  N.  wall  of  the  latter  may  still  he  seen  the 
arched  entrance  from  the  nunnery  and  (near  the  E.  end)  a  curious 
hagioscope  or  squint ,  originally  connected  with  the  cloisters.  At 
the  E.  end  of  the  N.  wall  is  an  inscription  (1877)  to  Alherico  Gen- 
tile (d.  1611),  the  Italian  jurist  and  professor  of  civil  law  at 
Oxford,  who  was  burled  near  it.  Close  hy  are  the  flat  tombs  of 
Sir  Thomas  Gresham  (p.  116)  and  Sir  Julius  Csssar  (d.  1636), 
Master  of  the  Rolls  in  the  reign  of  James  I.  The  Latin  inscription 
on  the  latter  is  to  the  effect  that  C»sar  had  given  his  bond  to 
Heaven  to  yield  up  his  soul  willingly  when  God  should  demand 
it.  The  handsomest  memorial  is  perhaps  that  of  Sir  William 
Pickering  (d.  1574),  on  the  N.  side  of  the  chancel.  On  the  S.  side 
is  the  tomb  of  Sir  John  Crosby  (d.  1476;  see  p.  117).  In  the  E. 
chapels  are  tombs  removed  from  the  church  of  St.  Martin  Outwich 
and  several  brasses.  The  stained-glass  windows  are  modern ;  the 
fourth  from  the  W.  end  of  the  nuns'  choir  was  erected  in  1884  to 
the  memory  of  Shakspeare,  who  was  a  parishioner  in  1598  and  is 
rated  in  the  parish  books  for  6l,  13a.  id.  —  In  St.  Helen's  Place 
is  the  modern  Hall  of  the  LeatherselUrs  (no  a  dm.),  a  company  in- 
corporated at  the  end  of  the  14th  century.  The  old  hall,  pulled 
down  in  1799,  was  originally  part  of  St.  Helen's  Nunnery.  Here 
also  (No.  12)  is  the  Consulate  General  of  the  United  States.  —  The 
Church  ofJSt,  EtheWurga^  in  Bishopsgate  (entrance  between  Nos.  52 
and  53),  just  to  the  N.  of  St.  Helen's  Place,  also  escaped  the 
Great  Fire. 

Bishopsgate  Street  Within  is  continued  to  the  N.  by  Bishopsgate 
Street  Without  (i.e.  outside  the  walls),  and  the  site  of  the  gate  which 
gave  name  to  both  is  indicated  by  a  tablet  on  the  house  at  the  cor- 
ner of  Camomile  Street  (PI.  R,  43;  III).  On  the  left  side  of 
Bishopsgate  Without,  opposite  Houndsditch,  is  the  Church  of  St. 
Botolph  without  Bishopsgate  (PI.  R,  43;  III),  rebuilt  in  1725-29. 
John  Keats  was  baptized  here  on  Oct.  31st,  1795.  Farther  on  Bish- 
opsgate Without  passes  (on  the  left)  Liverpool  Street  (station,  see 
p.  26).  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  a  little  farther  on,  is  the 
Bishopsgate  Institute,  opened  in  1894,  with  a  library,  reading- 
room,  etc.  Shoreditch,  the  continuation  of  Bishopsgate  Street,  leads 
to  the  chief  goods-depot  of  the  Great  Eastern  Railway,  beneath 
which  is  a  fish,  fruit,  and  vegetable  market.  The  churchyard  of 
St.  Leonardos,  Shoreditch,  now  opened  in  summer  as  a  public  gar- 
den, is  the  burial-place  of  many  actors,  including  Shakespeare's 
contemporary  Richard  Burbage  (d.  1618).  The  present  church 
dates  from  1740,  but  incorporates  a  chancel  window  of  the  13th 
cent.;  it  was  restored  in  1899.  To  the  E.  lies  Spitalflelds,  with  its 
shoemakers  (see  p.  xxix)  and  bird-fanciers,  beyond  which  is  Bethnal- 


The  City.  5.  CORNHILL.  119 

Oreen  (p.  xxix).  At  No.  204  High  Street,  Shoieditch,  is  the  Standard 
Theatre  (PI.  B,  44),  a  characteristic  'East  End'  place  of  amnsement 
(see  p.  47).  The  Britannia  Theatre  (PI.  B,  44),  in  Hoxton  Street,  lies 
to  the  N.W.,  in  the  crowded  district  of  Hoxton,  Shoreditch  High 
Street  is  continued  due  N.  by  Kingsland  Road  to  Kingsland  and  to 
Daliton,  where  the  Oerman  Hospital  is  situated.  Farther  to  the  N. 
are  Stoke  Newington  and  Clapton  (p.  416). 

The  open  spaces  in  Stoke  Kewington  include  CHuold  Park  (55  acres), 
intersected  by  the  Kew  Biver  (p.  1C6)  and  acquired  for  the  public  in  1889, 
and  ^oit  Newington  Common  (5i/4  acres).  Ahnej/  Park  Cemetery  was  formerly 
the  estate  of  Sir  Thomas  Abney,  with  whom  Dr.  Isaac  Watts  spent  the  last 
thirty  years  of  his  life,  and  contains  a  statue  of  the  hymn-writer  by  Baily. 
Mrs.  Booth,  wife  of  Oen.  Booth  of  the  Salvation  Army,  is  buried  near  the 
upper  end  of  the  cemetery.  Other  famous  names  connected  with  Stoke 
Newington  are  those  of  Edgar  Allan  Poe,  who  was  at  school  here  in 
1817-19  (comp.  his 'William  Wilson  )i  Daniel  Defoe  ^  Thomas  Day,  author 
of  'Sandford  and  Herton";  John  Howard,  the  philanthropist;  and  Bridget 
Fleetwood,  eldest  daughter  of  Oliver  Cromwell.  —  In  Homsey,  to  the  N.W. 
of  Stoke  Kewington,  is  Finsbury  Park  (115  acres). 

In  Comhill,  the  street  which  leads  to  the  E.  straight  past  the 
S.  side  of  the  Exchange,  rises  on  the  right  (S.)  St  Michael's 
Churchy  with  a  large  late-Gothic  tower,  bnilt  by  Wren^  and  restored 
by  Sir  O,  0.  Scott,  Farther  on  is  St.  Peter's  Church,  which,  accord- 
ing to  an  ancient  tablet  preseryed  in  the  vestry,  was  originally 
founded  in  179  A.D.  by  *Lucius,  the  first  Christian  king  of  this 
land,  then  called  Britaine\  The  present  structure  was  built  by  Wren 
in  1680-81.  The  organ  is  by  Father  Smith  (p.  88),  and  its  old 
key-board,  now  in  the  vestry,  was  used  by  Mendelssohn  on  Sept. 
30th,  1840.  Both  churches  are  open  daily  (except  Sat.),  12-2.  Gray, 
the  poet  (1716-71),  was  born  in  the  house  which  formerly  occupied 
the  site  of  No.  41  Cornhill. 

In  Leadenhall  Street,  which  continues  Cornhill,  stands,  on  the 
right  and  near  the  corner  of  Gracechurch  Street,  Leadenhall 
Market,  one  of  the  chief  marts  in  London  for  poultry,  game, 
and  hides  (see  p.  63).  The  old  House  of  the  East  India  Company, 
in  which  Charles  Lamb  (for  33  years),  James  Mill,  and  John  Stuart 
Mill  were  clerks,  stood  at  the  corner  of  Leadenhall  Street  and  Lime 
Street.  On  the  opposite  side  of  Leadenhall  Street,  at  the  corner  of 
St.  Mary  Axe,  is  the  small  church  of  St.  Andrew  TJndershaft  (i.  e. 
under  the  maypole ,  as  the  maypole  which  used  to  be  erected  here 
was  higher  than  the  tower  of  the  church),  a  Perpendicular  building 
of  1520-32,  with  a  turreted  tower  (daily,  12-2).  At  the  end  of  the 
N.  aisle  is  the  tomb  of  Stow,  the  antiquary  (d.  1605).  Near  this 
tomb  is  the  monument  of  Sir  Hugh  Hammersley  (d.  1636),  with 
two  fine  figures  of  attendants,  by  Thomas  Madden.  At  No.  24 
St.  Mary  Axe  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  Baltic  Mercantile 
and  Shipping  Exchange,  opened  in  1903.  —  Still  farther  on  in 
Leadenhall  Street,  on  the  right,  is  the  Church  of  St.  Catherine  Cree 
(dally,  12-2),  with  i^n  interior  by  Inigo  Jones,  being  the  successor 


120  5.  CORN  EXCHANGE.  The  City. 

of  an  older  church  in  which  Holhein  (d.  1 543)  is  said  to  have  been  in- 
terred. The  character  of  the  services  held  here  ky  Archbp.  Laud  in 
1631  at  the  consecration  of  the  church  formed  one  of  the  charges  in 
his  trial.  The  iVeto  Zealand  Chambers  (No.  34)  are  one  of  Norman 
Shaw's  reproductions  of  mediaeval  architecture.  Leadenhall  Street 
is  joined  at  its  E.  end  by  Fenchuroh  Street  (see  below). 

Lombard  Street  and  Fenchurch  Street ,  forming  a  line  on  the  S. 
nearly  parallel  to  Cornhill  and  Leadenhall  Street ,  are  also  among 
the  busiest  thoroughfares  of  the  city.  Lombard  Street  has  been  for 
ages  the  most  noted  street  in  London  for  banking  and  finance,  and 
has  inherited  its  name  from  the  'Lombard'  money-dealers  from 
Genoa  and  Florence,  who,  in  the  14th  and  15th  centuries,  took  the 
place  of  the  discredited  and  persecuted  Jews  of  *Old  Jewry'  as 
money-lenders.  Alexander  Pope  (1688-1744)  was  bom  in  Plough 
Court,  on  the  right  (S.)side  of  Lombard  Street,  in  a  house  demolished 
in  1872.  On  the  N.  side  of  Lombard  Street  is  the  Church  of  St.  Edmur^d 
King  and  Martyr  (open  10-4),  completed  by  "Wren  in  1690,  in  which 
Addison  was  married  to  the  Countess  of  Warwick  on  Aug.  9th,  1716. 
On  the  same  side,  just  beyond  Birclay  &  Co's  bank,  is  the  entrance 
to  All  Hallows  Church  (open  11-4),  also  built  by  Wren,  and  some- 
times referred  to  as  the  *church  invisible',  from  its  retired  position.  — 
Fenchurch  Street  reminds  us  by  its  name  of  the  fenny  character  of  the 
district  when  the  old  church  was  built  (drained  by  the  little  stream 
of  *Langbourue'  running  into  the  *Walbrook')  +.  On  the  N.  side 
of  the  street  was  the  Elephant  Tavern  (rebuilt),  where  Uogarth 
lodged  for  some  time,  and  which  was  once  adorned  with  several  of 
liis  works.  Adjacent  is  the  Ironmongers^  Hall,  whose  company  dates 
from  the  reign  of  Edward  IV.,  with  an  Interesting  interior,  portraits 
of  Izaak  Walton  and  Admiral  Hood,  etc.  (adm.  on  written  applica- 
tion to  the  clerk). 

Fenchurch  Street  is  connected  with  Great  Tower  Street  by 
Mincing  Lane  (so  called  from  the  *mlnchens',  or  nuns  of  St.  Helen's, 
to  whom  part  of  It  belonged),  which  is  the  central  point  of  the 
colonial  wholesale  trade.  The  Clothworkers'  Hall,  in  Mincing  Lane, 
was  built  in  1860  \  the  company,  of  which  Samuel  Pepys  was  master 
in  1677,  was  incorporated  in  the  15th  cent.  (adm.  on  introduction). 
A  little  to  the  E.,  in  Mark  Lane  (originally  Mart  Lane\  is  the 
Corn  Exchange  (PI.  R,  43,  ///;  chief  market  on  Mon.,  ll-3>  The 
fine  Tower  of  All  Hallows  Staining,  behind  the  warehouses  at  the 
N.  end  of  this  lane,  reached  via  Star  Alley  (on  the  W.  side),  is  one 
of  the  oldest  of  the  relics  which  have  survived  the  Great  Fire.  On 
the  E.  side  of  Mark  Lane  is  Hart  Street,  with  the  Church  of  St.  Olave 
(open  12.30  to  3),  interesting  as  having  survived  the  Great  Fire, 
and  as  the  church  once  frequented  by  Samuel  Pepys  (d.  1703).  The 
picturesque  interior  contains  a  number  of  curious  old  tombs,  In- 

f  Mr.  Loftie  thinks  ^fen"  may  be  a  corruption  of  the  An^lo-9axun /o<n 
(ha^),  as  'grace'  in  Grapechurch  Street  in  of  ^rmf. 


The  City.  5.  HOUNDSDITCU.  121 

eluding  those  of  Pepys  and  hU  wife.  A  bust  of  Pepys  was  placed 
on  the  S.  wall  In  1884.  The  skulls  over  the  gate  of  the  churchyard 
in  Seething  Lane  are  said  to  commemorate  the  fact  that  many  per- 
sons who  died  of  the  plague  in  1666  are  buried  here,  but  this 
tradition  is  not  supported  by  the  burials -register  of  the  church. 
In  the  same  street  once  stood  a  monastery  of  the  ^Crossed  Frlars\ 
a  reminiscence  of  whom  still  exists  in  the  adjoining  street  of 
Crutched  Friars. 

Near  the  E.  end  of  Fenchurch  Street  is  Railway  Place,  leading 
to  the  S.  to  Fenehurck  Strtet  Railway  Station  (PI.  R,  48;  I J  J),  for  the 
railways  to  Blackwall  and  Southend  (p.  28).  Farther  to  the  £.,  beyond 
the  church  of  8t.  Katherine  Colemany  rises  the  handsome  new  build- 
ing of  Lloyd's  Register  fp.  116),  completed  in  1901.  The  interior 
decorations  are  very  effective.  At  the  junction  of  Fenchurch  Street 
and  Leadenhall  Street  stands  Aldgate  Pump,  disnsed  since  1876 ;  a 
'draught  (draft)  on  Aldgate  Pump'  used  to  be  a  cant  term  for  a  bad 
bill.  From  this  point  Aldgate  IJigh  Street  runs  K.  to  the  Aldgate 
Station  of  the  Metropolitan  Railway,  passing  the  Church  of  St.  Bo- 
tolph  Aldgate  (PL  R,  47  j  III),  which  is  open  from  12.30  to  1.30  p.m. 
daily.  The  supposed  head  of  the  Duke  of  Suffolk  (beheaded  1554), 
remored  from  Trinity  Church  (see  below)  and  now  preserved  in  this 
church  in  aglas8-ca«e,  is  sometimes  shown  on  application  to  the 
vicar. 

In  Great  Alie  Street  (Pi.  R,  17),  a  little  to  the  S.E.  of  Aldgate  Station, 
once  stood  Ooodmati't  Fields  ThecUre^  in  which  Garrick  made  his  first  ap- 
pearance on  a  London  stage  in  the  character  of  Richard  lit.  (Oct.  19th,  1741). 

On  the  E.  margin  of  the  City  proper  lies  Houmosditcii  (PI.  R,  43^  //7), 
the  quarter  of  Jew  brokers  and  second-hand  dealers,  whence  the  Minorie* 
lead  s)iithwards  to  tbe  Tower  and  the  Thames.  To  the  £.  of  the  Uinories 
rises  the  old  Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  (PL  R,  47  ^  ///),  once  bslmging  to 
an  abbey  of  Minoresses,  or  nuns  of  the  or  Jer  of  St  Glare,  and  containing 
several  cnrions  old  moouments,  on  one  of  -which  are  the  arms  (stars  and 
stripes)  of  tbe  Washington  family.  The  church  is  now  used  as  a  parish - 
institute  for  St.  B)tolph  Aldgate  (keys  at  No.  17  New  Square,  Winories; 
visitors  are  exp:cted  to  contrlbule  at  least  6d.  to  the  restoration  fund}. 

From  Aldgate  Station  Whiiechapel  High  Street  runs  £.  to  White^^ 
chapel,  see  p.  144. 


6.    London  Bridge.    The  Monument.    Lower  Thames 
Street. 

Fishmongers' Hall.    St.  Magnus  the  Martyr's.    Billingsgate.   Custom 
House.    Coal  Exchange. 

King  William  Street^  a  wide  thoroughfare  with  handsome  build- 
ings, leads  S.E.  from  the  Bank  to  London  Bridge.  Immediately  on 
the  left,  at  the  corner  of  Lombard  Street,  is  the  church  of  St.  Mary 
Woolnothy  erected  in  1716,  by  Hawksmoor.  It  contains  a  tablet  to 
the  memory  of  Newton,  the  friend  of  Cowper  the  poet  and  once 
rector  of  the  parish,  with  an  epitaph  by  himself.   Newton's  remains, 


122  6.    LONDON  BRIDGE.  The  City. 

however,  were  removed  to  Olney  in  1893.  The  fine  organ  was  orig- 
inally built  by  Father  Schmitz  (1681 ;  comp.  p.  88).  Beneath  the 
church  is  the  Bank  Station  of  the  City  and  S.  London  £lectrlc  Rail- 
way (p.  37).  —  In  St.  Clement's  Lane,  to  the  left,  is  St.  Clement's 
Church  (open  12-3),  built  by  Wren  in  1686  and  containing  a  stained- 
glass  window  and  brass  tablets  commemorating  Thomas  Fuller  (d. 
1661),  Bishop  Pearson  (d.  1686) ,  author  of  the  'Exposition  of  the 
Creed',  and  Bishop  Walton  (d.  1661),  editor  of  the  'Biblia  Poly- 
glotta'.  Purcell  was  organist  in  this  church.  Farther  on,  at  the  point 
where  King  William  Street,  Gracechurch  Street,  Eastcheap,  and 
Cannon  Street  (p.  130)  converge,  on  a  site  once  occupied  by  Fal- 
staff's  ^Boar's  Head  Tavern',  rises  the  Statue  of  William  IV.,  by 
Nixon.  Adjacent  is  the  Monument  Station  of  the  District  Railway 
(p.  32).  To  the  left,  in  Fish  Street  Hill,  is  the  Monument  (see  p.  123). 
On  each  side  of  the  first  arch  of  London  Bridge,  which  crosses 
Lower  Thames  Street  (p.  124),  are  flights  of  stone  steps  descending 
to  the  street  below 

London  Bridge  (PI.  R,  42;  III),  until  1769  (comp.  p.  127)  the 
only  bridge  over  the  Thames  in  London,  and  still  the  most  important, 
connects  the  City,  the  central  point  of  business,  with  the  Borough^ 
on  the  Surrey  (S.)  side  of  the  river  (see  p.  376). 

The  Saxons,  and  perhaps  the  Romans  before  them,  erected  various 
wooden  bridges  over  the  Thames  near  the  site  of  the  present  London 
Bridge,  but  these  were  all  at  different  periods  carried  away  by 
floods  or  destroyed  by  fire.  At  length  in  1176  Henry  IL  instructed 
Peter,  chaplain  of  the  church  of  St.  Mary  Cole,  to  construct  a  stone 
bridge  at  this  point,  but  the  work  was  not  completed  till  1209,  in 
the  reign  of  Henry's  son,  John.  A  chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  Thomas 
of  Canterbury,  was  built  upon  the  bridge,  and  a  row  of  houses 
sprang  up  on  each  side ,  so  that  the  bridge  resembled  a  continuous 
street.  It  was  terminated  at  both  banks  by  fortifled  gates ,  on  the 
pinnacles  of  which  the  heads  of  traitors  used  to  be  exposed. 

In  one  of  the  houses  dwelt  Sir  John  Hewitt,  Lord  Mayor  in  the  time 
of  Qaeen  Elizabeth,  whose  daughter,  according  to  the  romantic  story, 
fell  into  the  river,  and  was  rescued  by  Edward  Osborne,  his  apprentice.  The 
brave  and  fortunate  youth  afterwards  married  the  young  lady  and  founded 
the  family  of  the  present  Duke  of  Leeds. 

The  present  London  Bridge,  about  60  yds.  higher  up  the  river 
than  the  old  bridge  (removed  in  1832),  was  designed  hy  John  Rennie, 
a  Scottish  engineer,  begun  in  1825  under  the  superintendence  of 
his  sons,  Sir  John  and  George  Rennie,  and  completed  in  1831.  The 
original  outlay,  including  the  cost  of  the  approaches,  was  about 
720, 000^.,  and  in  1902-4  the  bridge  was  widened  at  a  cost  of 
100, 000^  The  bridge,  928  ft.  long  and  63  ft.  broad  (54  ft.  untU 
1904),  is  borne  by  flve  granite  arches,  of  which  that  in  the  centre 
has  a  span  of  152  ft.  The  lamp-posts  on  the  bridge  are  cast  of  the 
metal  of  French  cannon  captured  in  the  Peninsular  War. 

It  is  estimated  that,   in  spite  of  the  relief  afforded  by  the 


The  City.  6.    THE  MONUMENT.  123 

Tower  Bridge,  2^2,000  yehicles  and  about  110,000  pedestrians  cross 
London  Bridge  daily,  a  fact  which  may  gi^e  the  stranger  some 
idea  of  the  prodigious  traffic  carried  on  in  this  part  of  the  oity. 
New-oomers  should  pay  a  Tisit  to  London  Bridge  on  a  week-day 
during  business-hours  to  see  and  hear  the  steady  stream  of  noisy 
traffic.  Stoppages  or  'blocks'  in  the  flow  of  Tehicles,  of  course, 
sometimes  take  place ;  but,  thanks  to  the  skilful  management  of 
the  police,  such  interruptions  are  seldom  of  long  duration.  One  of 
the  police  regulations  for  this  and  other  busy  bridges  is  that  slow- 
moYing  yehicles  travel  at  the  sides,  and  quick  ones  in  the  middle. 
London  Bridge  divides  London  into  'aboTo'  and  'below'  bridge. 
Looking  down  the  river  we  survey  the  Port  of  London  (p.  140),  the 
part  immediately  below  the  bridge  being  called  the  Pool.  Sea- 
going vessels  of  the  largest  size  may  ascend  the  river  to  this  point, 
but  the  busiest  and,  most  crowded  part  of  the  port  now  lies  below 
the  Tower  Bridge,  of  which  a  good  view  is  obtained  hence.  Above 
bridge  the  traffic  is  carried  on  chiefly  by  penny  steamboats  and  coal 
barges.  Among  the  buildings  visible  from  the  bridge  are,  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  river ,  the  Tower,  the  Custom  House ,  Billingsgate 
Market,  the  Monument,  St.  Paul's,  a  great  number  of  other  chur- 
ches, and  the  Cannon  Street  Station,  while  on  the  Surrey  side  lie 
St.  Saviour's  Church,  Barclay  and  Perkins's  Brewery,  and  numerous 
great  warehouses.  Near  the  S.  end  of  the  bridge  lies  London 
Bridge  Station  (p.  29). 

An  admirable  survey  of  the  traffic  on  the  bridge  as  well  as  on  the 
river  is  obtained  from  The  Monument  (PL  R,  43;  ///),  in  Fish  Street 
Hill ,  a  little  to  the  N.  This  consists  of  a  fluted  column,  202  ft. 
in  height,  designed  by  Wren,  and  erected  in  1671-77  in  com- 
memoration of  the  Great  Fire  of  London,  which,  on  2nd-7th  Sept., 
1666,  destroyed  460  streets  With  89  churches  and  13,200  houses, 
valued  at  7,335,0002.  The  height  of  the  column  is  said  to  equal 
its  distance  from  the  house  in  Pudding  Lane  in  which  the  fire  broke 
out.  A  winding  staircase  of  345  steps  (adm.  3d.)  ascends  the  column 
to  a  platform  enclosed  by  an  iron  cage  (added  to  put  a  stop  to  sui- 
cides from  the  monument),  above  which  rises  a  gilt  urn  with  blaz- 
ing flames,  42  ft.  in  height.  The  pedestal  bears  inscriptions  and 
allegorical  reliefs. 

Immediately  to  the  W.  of  London  Bridge ,  at  the  lower  end  of 
Upper  Thames  Street  ^  stands  Fishmongers'  Halli  a  guildhouse 
erected  in  1831  on  t]ie  site  of  an  older  building.  The  Company  of 
Fishmongers  existed  as  early  as  the  time  of  Edward  I.  It  originally 
consisted  of  two  separate  trades ,  that  of  the  Salt- Fishmongers  and 
that  of  the  Stock- Fishmongers ,  which  were  united  to  form  the  pre- 
sent body  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIIL  The  guild  is  one  of  the 
richest  in  London ,  possessing  an  annual  revenue  of  50, OOOZ.  In 
politics  it  has  usually  been  distinctively  attached  to  the  Whig  party, 
while  the  Merchant  Taylors  are  recognized  as  the  great  Tory  com- 


124  6.    BILLINGSGATE.  The  City. 

pany.  On  the  landing  of  the  staircase  is  a  statue  of  Lord  Mayor 
Walworth  (a  member  of  the  company) ,  who  slew  the  rebel  Wat 
Tyler  (p.  100).  Among  the  objects  of  interest  in  the  interior  are  the 
dagger  with  which  that  rebel  was  slain ;  a  richly  embroidered  pall 
known  as  'Walworth's  palP  ;  a  chair  made  oat  of  part  of  the  first 
pile  driven  In  the  constraction  of  Old  London  Bridge,  supposed  to 
have  been  submerged  in  the  Thames  for  650  years ;  portraits  of  the 
Margrave  and  Margravine  of  Anspach  by  Bomney,  Earl  St. Vincent 
by  Beecheyj  William  III.  and  his  queen  by  Murray^  George  II.  and 
his  consort  by  Shaxildetony  and  Queen  Victoria  by  Herbert  Smith. 
Yintnen'  Hall  (PI.  R,89;  ///),  68  Upper  Thames  Street,  wa«  built  by 
Wren  in  1671  but  almost  entirely  rebuilt  in  1830-23  (adm.  on  written  intro- 
duction). The  old  Council  Chamber  contains  good  oak-carving.  The  company 
was  incorporated  in  1486-37.  —  Near  the  W.  end  of  Upper  Thames  St.  is 
St.  BmeCt  Church,  built  by  Wren  in  1683,  now  used  as  a  Welsh  Church. 

LowBR  Thames  Stbbbt  runs  eastwards  from  London  Bridge  to 
the  Custom  House  and  the  Tower.  Chaucer,  the  'father  of  English 
poetry',  is  said  to  have  lived  here  in  1379-85.  Close  to  the  bridge, 
on  the  right,  stands  the  handsome  church  of  St.  Magnus  the  Martyr 
(open  12-2),  with  a  cupola  and  low  spire,  built  by  Wren  in  1676. 
Miles  Coverdale,  Bishop  of  Exeter,  author  of  the  ftrst  complete  printed 
English  version  of  the  Bible  (1535),  was  once  rector  of  St.  Magnus 
and  his  remains  were  transferred  hither  in  1840  from  St.  Bartholo- 
mew by  the  Exchange,  when  that  church  was  pulled  down. 

Farther  to  the  E. ,  on  the  Thames,  is  BiUixigsgate  (PL  U,  42,  III; 
80  called  from  a  gate  of  old  London,  named,  as  an  improbable  tra- 
dition says,  after  Belin,  a  king  of  the  Britons),  the  chief  fish-market 
of  London,  the  bad  language  used  at  which  has  become  proverbial. 
In  the  reign  of  Elizabeth  this  was  a  market  for  all  kinds  of  pro- 
visions, but  since  the  reign  of  William  III.  it  has  been  used  for 
fish  only.  Fish  has  been  landed  and  sold  here  from  time  im- 
memorial, though  now  by  far  the  largest  part  of  the  fish-supply 
comes  by  railway:  salmon  from  Scotland,  cod  and  turbot  from  the 
Doggerbank,  lobsters  from  Norway,  soles  from  the  German  ocean, 
eels  from  Holland,  and  oysters  from  the  mouth  of  the  Thames  and 
the  English  Channel.  Oysters  and  other  shell-fish  are  sold  by 
measure,  salmon  by  weight,  and  other  fish  by  number.  The  best 
llsh  is  bought  at  the  beginning  of  the  market  by  the  regular  fish- 
mongers. After  them  come  the  costermongers,  who  are  said  to  sell 
a  tliird  of  the  fish  consumed  in  London.  Billingsgate  wharf  is  the 
oldest  on  the  Thames.  The  present  market,  with  a  figure  of  Bri- 
tannia on  the  apex  of  the  pediment,  was  designed  by  Sir  Horace 
Jones,  and  opened  in  1877.  The  market  begins  daily  at  5  a.m., 
and  is  one  of  the  sights  of  London  (see  p.  63). 

Adjacent  to  the  fish-market  is  the  Custom  Hoase  (PL  R,  42 ; 
7/7),  built  by  Tjaing  in  1814-17,  with  an  Imposing  facade  towards 
the  Thames,  490  ft.  in  length,  by  Sir  li.  Smirke.  Visitors  are  ad- 
mitted to  the  Long  Room  (190  ft.  in  length,  by  66  in  breadth),  in 


The  City.  .   6.  COAL  EXCHANGE.  125 

which  abont  140  clerks  are  at  work.  Between  the  Custom  House 
and  the  Thames  is  a  broad  quay,  which  affords  a  flno  yiew  of  the 
river  and  shipping. 

The  Custom  HooBe  accommodates  about  650  officials,  and  about  800  more 
have  offices  among  the  various  warehouses,  docks,  and  wharves  flanking 
the  river  hetween  Gannon  Street  Station  and  Gravesend.  Qravesend  is 
the  headquarters  of  the  waterguard  force,  which  is  assisted  in  its  work 
by  7  steam-launches  and  1  motor-boat.  The  customs -duties  levied  at  the 
port  of  London  amount  to  about  iSLOOOjOOO/.  a  year,  or  nearly  one-third 
of  the  total  customs-revenue  of  the  United  Kingdom.  In  addition  about 
600,000/.  is  collected  in  the  form  of  excise-duties  and  about  90,000/.  in  the 
form  of  light- dues,  for  Trinity  House  (p.  138).  Confiscated  articles  are 
stored  in  a  warehouse  reserved  for  this  purpose,  and  are  disposed  of  at 
annual  sales  by  auction,  which  take  place  in  Mincing  Lane  and  yield  2000/. 
per  annum. 

The  Coal  Exchange,  opposite,  at  the  corner  of  St.  Mary  at  Hill, 
erected  in  1849  from  plans  by  Bunningj  is  in  the  Italian  style,  and 
has  a  tower  106  ft.  in  height.  Adjoining  it  on  the  E.  is  a  hypo- 
catutf  or  stOTe  of  masonry  belonging  to  a  Roman  bath ,  discoYered 
when  the  foundations  were  being  dug  (^shown  on  application  to 
one  of  the  attendants).  The  circular  hall ,  with  glass  dome  and 
triple  gallery,  is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  F.  Sang^  representing 
the  formation  of  coal  and  process  of  mining.  The  flooring  is  inlaid 
with  40,000  pieces  of  wood,  arranged  in  the  form  of  a  mariner's 
compass.  The  sword  in  the  municipal  coat-of-arms  in  the  centre  is 
said  to  be  formed  of  the  wood  of  a  mulberry-tree  planted  by  Peter 
the  Great  in  1698,  when  he  was  learning  the  art  of  ship-building 
at  Deptfoid.  A  collection  of  fossils,  etc.,  is  shown  in  cases  in  the 
galleries.  —  The  amount  of  coal  annually  consumed  in  London 
alone  at  present  averages  upwards  of  6,000,000  tons. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Custom  House  and  to  the  E.  of  the  Coal  Exchange, 
at  the  convergence  of  St.  Dunstan's  Hill  and  Idol  Lane,  is  the  Church  of 
St.  Dvnttcm't  in  the  East  0*1.  R,  42-,  7/7),  rebuilt  in  1671  by  Wren  and  again 
in  1817-21i  the  square  tower,  ending  in  a  kind  of  lantern-steeple,  is  Wren's 
work  (1699).  The  church  contains  a  number  of  monuments  and  stained 
glass  windows.  In  the  vestry  is  a  model  of  Wren's  church,  carved  in  oak 
and  chestnut.  —  The  CJiurch  of  St.  Mary  at  Hill,  a  little  to  the  W.  of  St. 
Dunstan's,  was  built  by  Wren  in  1672-T7  (tower  modern).  Its  present 
rector,  the  Rev.  W.  Carlile,  is  the  founder  of  the  Church  Army,  and  the 
services  include  many  popular  features.  Adjacent  is  the  dtp  Samaritan 
Office^  a  kind  of  club  lor  the  destitute. 

Lower  Thames  Street  debouches  at  its  E.  end  upon  Tower  Hill 
(p.  138).  —  The  Toiocr,  see  p.  131. 

7.   Thames  Embankment.  Blackfriars  Bridge,  ftueen 
Victoria  Street.    Cannon  Street. 

Cleopatra's  NeedU,    The  Times'  Publishing  Office,  Bible  Society, 

Heralds'  College,   Ijondon  Stone.    Southwark  Bridge, 

The  ^Victoria  Embankment,  which  leads  from  Westminster 

Bridge  (PI.  R,  29;  IV)  towards  the  E.  along  the  N.  bank  of  the 

Thames  as  far  as  Blackfriars  Bridge  (PI.  R,  36;  IT)  and  is  traversed 


126  7.  THAMES  EMBANKMENT.  The  City, 

by  a  tramway  (p.  23),  offers  a  pleasant  approach  to  the  City  and 
the  Tower  to  those  who  have  already  explored  the  Strand  and  Fleet 
Street.  It  was  constructed  in  1864-70,  under  the  superyislon  of 
Sir  Joseph  W,  Bazalgette  (p.  xxxi),  at  a  cost  of  nearly  2,000,000^. 
It  is  about  2300  yds.  in  length,  and  consists  of  a  macadamised 
carriage-way  64  ft.  wide,  with  a  foot  payement  16  ft.  broad  on  the 
land-side,  and  otie  20  ft.  broad  on  the  river-side.  The  whole  of 
this  area  was  once  covered  by  the  tide  twice  a  day.  It  is  protected 
on  the  side  next  the  Thames  by  a  granite  wall,  8  ft.  thick,  for  which 
a  foundation  was  made  by  sinking  iron  cylinders  into  the  river-bed 
as  deeply  as  possible  and  filling  them  with  concrete.  Under  the 
Embankment  run  three  different  tunnels.  On  the  inland  side  is  one 
traversed  by  the  Metropolitan  District  Railway,  while  on  the  Thanoea 
side  there  are  two,  one  above  the  other,  the  lower  containing  one  of 
the  principal  intercepting  sewers  (p.  xxxi),  and  the  upper  one  holding 
water  and  gas  pipes  and  telegraph-vnres.  Rows  of  trees  have  been 
planted  along  the  sides  of  the  Embankment,  affording  a  shady 
promenade.  At  intervals  are  large  openings,  with  stairs  leading  to 
the  floating  steamboat  piers  (p.  38),  which  are  constructed  of  iron, 
and  rise  and  fall  with  the  tide. 

The  principal  approaches  to  the  Victoria  Embankment  are  from 
Blackfriars  Bridge  and  Westminster  Bridge  (p.  216),  from  Hor^  e- 
guards  Avenue,  leading  off  Whitehall,  from  Charing  Cross  (p.  164), 
and  from  Arundel,  Norfolk,  Surrey,  Wellington,  Savoy,  andVilliers 
Streets,  all  leading  off  the  Strand. 

Beginning  at  Westminster  Bridge  (p.  216),  we  see  St.  Stephen's 
Club  to  the  left,  and  a  little  farther  on  pass  New  Scotland  Yard 
(p,  216)  and  Montague  House  (p.  215).  Immediately  above  Charing 
Cross  Bridge  rises  a  lofty  block  of  buildings  containing  the  National 
Liberal  Club  (p.  164).  The  public  gardens  (band  on  summer 
evenings,  except  Thurs.  &  Sat.)  in  front  of  these  are  embellished 
with  bronze  statues  of  William  TyndaUy  the  translator  of  the 
New  Testament,  Sir  BarUe  Frere^  and  General  Outram,  In  the  wall 
of  the  Embankment,  opposite  Northumberland  Avenue,  is  a  mural 
monument  to  Sir  Joseph  Bazalgette  (1819-91 ;  see  above),  by  George 
Simonds.  Below  the  bridge  is  another  public  garden,  with  statues 
of  Robert  Bums  and  Robert  Raikes,  ^he  founder  of  Sunday  schools 
(1790),  a  tasteful  memorial  to  Sir  Arthur  SuUivan  (1842-1900), 
and  a  memorial  fountain  bearing  a  bronze  medallion  of  Henry 
Fawcetty  M.  P.  The  ancient  level  of  the  river  is  indicated  by  the 
beautiful  old  •Watergate  of  York  House,  a  palace  begun  by  Inigo 
Jones  for  the  first  Duke  of  Buckingham  (in  the  N.W.  corner  of  this 
garden).  Another  relic  of  this  palace,  in  which  Francis  Bacon  was 
born,  remains  in  Buckingham  Street  (p.  161),  behind  the  Watergate. 
Above  is  the  Adelphi  Terrace  (p.  161).  On  the  right  of  the  Embank- 
ment, by  the  Adelphi  Steps,  rises  Cleopatra's  Heedle  (PI.  R,  30 ;  Ji), 
an  Egyptian  obelisk  erected  here  in  1878. 


The  City,  7.  BLACKFRIARS  BKIDGK.  127 

This  fftmooa  obelisk  was  presented  to  the  British  Government  by  Mo- 
hammed All,  and  brought  to  this  country  by  the  private  munificence  of 
Dr.  Erasmus  Wilson,  who  gave  10,0001.  for  this  purpose.  Properly  speaking 
Cleopatra^s  Needle  is  the  name  of  the  companion  obelisk  now  in  New  York, 
which  stood  erect  at  Alexandria  till  its  removal,  while  the  one  now  in 
London  lay  prostrate  for  many  years.  Both  monoliths  were  originally 
brought  from  Heliopolis,  which  is  referred  to  in  the  inscription  on  the 
London  obelisk  as  the  ^house  of  the  PhcDnix".  The  obelisk,  which  is  of 
reddish  granite,  measures  68 Vs  ft.  in  height,  and  is  8  ft.  wide  at  the  base. 
Its  weight  is  180  tons.  The  pedestal  of  grey  granite  is  18'Vs  ft.  high,  in- 
cluding the  steps  \  the  inscriptiqps  on  it  summarise  the  ancient  and  modern 
history  of  the  Obelisk.  The  Obelisk  of  Luxor  at  Paris  is  76  ft.  in  height, 
and  weighs  240  tons. 

Two  large  bronze  Sphinxet.  designed  by  Mr.  G.  Vulliamy,  have  been 
placed  at  the  base  of  the  Needle. 

A  little  farther  on,  near  Waterloo  Bridge,  rises  the  Cecil  Hotel 
(p.  4),  an  enormous  building  by  Perry  and  Reed,  occupying  the  site 
of  one  of  the  most  ambitious  enterprises  of  the  notorious  Liberator 
Society.  It  is  adjoined  by  the  5awy  Hotel  (p.  4;  at  the  back  of  the 
Savoy,  p.  160),  beyond  which  stands  the  Medical  Examination  Hall, 
The  latter,  a  building  of  red  brick  and  Portland  stone  In  the 
Italian  style,  erected  in  1886,  contains  a  statue  of  Queen  Victoria, 
by  Williamson  (1889).  Below  the  bridge  are  the  river-facade  and 
terrace  of  Somerset  House  (p.  159).  Farther  on,  near  the  Temple 
Station,  is  a  statue  of  Isambard  Brunei;  and  in  the  adjoining 
gardens  are  statues  of  W,  E,  Forster,  erected  in  1890,  and  of  John 
Stuart  Mill^  erected  In  1878.  At  the  ex.it  from  the  gardens  are  bronze 
copies  of  two  Wrestlers^  from  Herculaneum.  Behind  Forster's  statue  is 
the  tasteful  building  occupied  by  the  Education  Committee  (p.  xxxii) 
of  the  County  Council.  Then  follows  the  Temple  (p.  152),  with  its 
modern  Gothic  Library  and  its  Oardern.  Farther  to  the  E.,  beyond 
two  palatial  blocks  of  offices,  are  the  buildings  of  the  Metropolitan 
Asylums  Board  and  the  Thames  Conservancy ;  immediately  adjoin- 
ing the  latter  is  the  Gothic  building  (1886)  of  Sion  College  and 
Library  (see  p.  65 ;  visitors  admitted  on  application),  beyond  which 
is  the  City  of  London  School  (1883),  of  which  Sir  J.  R.  Seeley  was 
an  alumnus.  To  theN.,  in  Tallis  Street,  is  the  Ouildhall  School 
of  Music  (over  3000  pupils),  erected  by  the  Corporation  of  London  in 
the  Italian  style  in  1886.  In  Tudor  Street,  in  the  rear  of  this  building, 
Is  the  City  of  London  School  for  Oirls ;  and  at  the  corner  of  Tudor 
Street  and  Bridewell  Place  is  the  JnstituU  of  JournalisU  (1902). 
The  Embankment  ends  at  Blackfriars  Bridge,  at  the  N.  end  of 
which  is  a  statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  by  Birch  (1897).  Adjacent  is 
De  Keyser's  Royal  Hotel  (p.  8). 

AU)9rt  Embankment^  aee  p.  379  \  Chtlsea  Embanktnent^  see  p.  367. 


BlackfriarB  Bridge  (PI.  R,  34, 35 ;  /i),  an  iron  structure,  built 
by  Cubitt  in  1864-69,  occupies  the  site  of  a  stone  bridge  dating 
from  1769,  the  piers  of  which  had  given  way.  The  bridge,  which 
consists  of  five  arches  (the  central  having  a  span  of  185  ft.)  sup- 
ported by  granite  piers,  is  1272  ft.  in  length,  including  the  abut- 


128  7.  TIMES  OFFICE.  The  CUy, 

ments.  Widened  in  1907-8  it  is  now  the  broadest  bridge  across 
the  Thames  (105  ft.).  The  original  cost  of  construction  amounted  to 
400,000^.  The  dome  of  St.  Panrs  is  seen  to  adyantage  from  this  bridge 
(comp.,  however,  p.  86),  which  also  commands  an  excellent  view 
otherwise.  Just  below  Blackfriars  Bridge  is  the  South  Eoftem  and 
Chatham  Railway  Bridge ,  and  just  above  is  the  tunnel  by  which, 
the  WaUrloo  ^  City  Railway  (p.  38)  passes  under  the  river. 

The  bridge  derives  its  name  from  an  ancient  Monastery  of  the  Black 
Friars,  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  rive1^  and  dating  from  1276,  where 
several  parliaments  once  met,  and  where  Cardinals  Wolsey  and  Cam- 
pegglo  pronounced  sentence  of  divorce  against  the  unfortunate  Queen 
Catharine  of  Aragon  in  1529  (^King  Henry  VIII.*  ii.  4).  Shakspeare  once 
lived  at  Blackfriars,  and  in  1599  acted  at  a  theatre  which  formerly  occu- 
pied part  of  the  site  of  the  monastery,  and  of  which  the  name  Plaphonte 
Yard  is  still  a  reminiscence.  In  KKJ?  Ben  Jonson  was  also  a  resident 
here,  and  Van  Dyck  lived  at  Blackfriars  from  1632  till  his  death  in  1641. 

In  New  Bridge  Street,  which  leads  straight  to  the  N.  from  Black- 
friars Bridge,  immediately  to  the  right,  is  the  Blackfriars  Station 
of  the  Metropolitan  District  Railway  (p.  32);  and  farther  on,  beyond 
Queen  Victoria  Street  (see  below),  is  the  large  Ludgate  Hill 
Station  of  the  South  Eastern  and  Chatham  Railway  (p.  28),  oppo- 
site which,  on  the  left,  the  prison  of  Bridewell  (so  called  from  the 
old  *miraculous'  Well  of  St.  Bride  or  St.  Bridget)  stood  down  to 
1864.  The  site  of  the  prison  was  once  occupied  by  Bridewell 
Palace,  iu  which  Shakspeare  lays  the  3rd  Act  of  his  'Henry  Vlll.' 
New  Bridge  Street  ends  at  Ludgate  Circus,  at-  the  E.  end  of  Fleet 
Street  (p.  148),  the  prolongation  to  the  N.  being  called  Farringdon 
Street  (see  p.  98).  To  the  E.,  opposite  Fleet  Street,  diverges  Lud- 
gate Hill,  leading  to  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  and  passing  under  tbe 
viaduct  of  the  South  Eastern  and  Chatham  Railway  (p.  27). 

QuBBN  VicTOEiA  Stebet,  a  broad  and  handsome  thoroughfare, 
1/3  M.  in  length,  constructed  at  vast  expense ,  leads  straight  from 
Blackfriars  Bridge,  towards  the  £.,  to  the  Mansion  House  and  the 
Bank.  To  the  right,  at  its  W.  end,  is  the  large  St.  PauVs  Station 
of  the  South  Eastern  and  Chatham  Railway.  In  Water  Lane,  to 
the  left,  stands  Apothecaries'  Hall,  built  in  1670,  and  containing 
portraits  of  James  I.,  Charles  I.,  and  others  (adm.  on  written  ap- 
plication to  the  clerk).  The  Society  of  Apothecaries,  consisting 
almost  entirely  of  medical  men,  grants  a  diploma  for  the  practice 
of  medicine  and  surgery  and  certificates  to  dispense  medicines.  The 
pure  drugs  prepared  in  the  chemical  laboratories  at  the  back  of 
the  Hall  are  largely  uFed  in  hospitals  and  the  colonies.  On  the  left 
side  of  Queen  Victoria  Street,  farther  on,  is  the  Office  of  The  Times 
(PI.  R,  35 ;  If),  a  handsome  building  of  red  brick.  The  tympanum 
bears  an  allegorical  device  with  allusions  to  times  past  and  future. 
Behind  the  Publishing  Office,  in  Printing  House  Square  (so  called 
from  the  former  office  of  the  king's  printers),  is  the  interesting 
Printing  Office,  Tickets  of  admission  to  see  the  printing  of  the 
second  edition  of  the  paper  at  midday  on  any  day  except  Sat.  are 


The  CUy.  7.  BIBLE  SOCIETY.  ^         129 

issued  on  written  application  to  the  Manager,  enclosing  a  reference 
fo  some  well-known  person  or  firm  in  London.  Applications  from 
toreigners  should  he  certified  hy  their  emhassy  or  legation.  Visitors 
should  be  careful  to  attend  at  the  hour  named  in  the  order.  No 
fewer  than  20,000  copies  can  he  struck  oflf  in  an  hour  by  the 
wonderful  mechanism  of  the  Walter  press,  and  perhaps  60,000  are 
issued  daily.  The  continuous  rolls  or  webs  of  paper,  with  which 
the  machine  feeds  itself,  are  each  4  miles  in  length,  and  of  these 
28  to  30  are  used  in  one  day.  The  finished  and  folded  copies  of 
Th€  Times  are  thrown  out  at  the  other  end  of  the  machine.  The 
type-setting  machines  also  are  of  great  interest.  The  guide  explains 
all  the  details  (no  gratuity).  The  Times  celebrated  its  centenary 
in  1888. 

Printing  House  Square  stands  on  a  corner  of  old  London  which 
for  many  ages  was  occupied  by  frowning  Norman  fortresses.  Part 
of  the  castle  of  Mountiitchet,  a  follower  of  the  Conqueror,  is  said  to 
have  stood  here ;  and  the  ground  hetween  the  S.  side  of  Queen 
Victoria  Street ,  or  Earl  Street ,  and  the  Thames  was  the  site  of 
Baynard*8  Castle  (mentioned  in  ^Richard  1II\)  with  its  extensive 
precincts,  which  replaced  an  earlier  Roman  fortress,  and  probably 
a  British  work  of  defence.  Baynard's  Castle  was  presented  by  Queen 
Elizaheth  to  the  Earls  of  Pembroke,  and  continued  to  be  their  resi" 
dence  till  its  destruction  in  the  Great  Firet. 

Farther  on  in  Queen  Victoria  Street  is  the  church  of  St.  Andrew 
hy  the  Wardrobe  (open  12-2),  rehuilt  by  Wren  in  1692.  This  church 
was  called  St.  Andrew's-juxta-Baynard's-Castle  until  the  reign  of 
Edward  III.,  hy  whom  the  office  of  the  King's  Great  Wardrobe  was 
transferred  to  a  house  near  Puddle  Dock  in  the  vicinity.  The 
wardrobe  was  a  depository  for  state-garments.  Adjacent,  on  the  E., 
rises  the  large  hullding  occupied  by  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible 
Society,  opened  in  1869.  The  numher  of  Bibles,  Testaments,  etc. 
issued  hy  this  important  society  now  amounts  to  over  five  and  a  half 
millions  a  year.  The  total  number  of  copies  issued  since  its  foundation 
in  1804  is  over  200,000,000,  printed  in  409  different  languages  and 
dialects.  The  annual  income  of  the  society  from  suhscriptions  and 
the  sale  of  Bibles  is  about  230,000/.  Visitors  (daily,  except  Sat  and 
Mon.)  are  shown  the  library,  containing  a  unique  collection  of 
Bibles  and  Portions  of  the  Scriptures  in  12,000  vols.,  in  more  than 
500  different  languages,  including  fine  copies  of  famous  and  scarce 
editions  of  early  printed  English  Bibles ;  and  the  Codex  Zacynthius, 
a  palimpsest  of  the  Gospels  hrought  from  Zante.  The  committee- 
room  contains  a  portrait  of  Lord  Shafteshury,  by  Millais,  and  Luther's 
first  study  of  the  Bihle,  a  large  painting  hy  E.  M,  Ward,  —  Farthef 


t  TMs  is  the  ordinary  account,  bat  it  is  dispnted  by  Mr.  Loftie,  who 
maintains  that  the  later  house  knoWn  as  Baynard's  Castle  did  not  occupy 
the  site  of  the  original  fortress  of  that  name.  See  his  ^London'  (in  thh 
^Historic  Towns  Series'-,  1887). 

Bj,Ri>bs£b's  London.    10th  Edit.  9 


130  7*   CANNON  STREET.  The  City. 

to  the  E.,  on  the  same  side  of  the  street,  are  the  large  balldings  of 
the  Post  Office  TeUphone  Department  (p.  42). 

To  the  left,  farther  on  in  Queen  Ylotoria  Street,  is  Heraldg'  Col- 
lege, or  the  College  of  Arms  (rebuiU  in  1683),  anciently  the  town 
house  of  the  Earls  of  Derby.  The  library  oontaius  a  number  of  inter- 
esting objects ,  Including  a  sword,  dagger,  and  ring  belonging  to 
James  IV.  of  Scotland,  who  fell  at  Flodden  in  1513 ;  the  Warwick  roll, 
a  series  of  portraits  of  the  Earls  of  Warwick  from  the  Conquest  to  the 
time  of  Richard  111.  (executed  by  Rous  at  the  end  of  the  15th  cent. ) ; 
genealogy  of  the  Saxon  kings,  from  Adam,  more  curious  than  trust- 
worthy, illustrated  with  drawings  of  the  time  of  Henry  VIII. ;  por- 
trait of  the  celebrated  Talbot,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  from  his  tomb 
in  old  St.  Paul's.  The  college  also  contains  the  official  records  of 
the  nobility  and  gentry  of  England  and  other  valuable  genealogical 
collections.   Visitors  require  an  introduction. 

The  office  of  Earl-Mar«hal,  president  of  Heralda'  College,  is  hereditary 
in  the  person  of  the  Duke  of  ITorfolk.  The  college  consists  of  three 
kings-at-arms,  Garter,  Clarenceux,  and  Norroy  —  six  heralds,  Lancaster, 
Somerset,  Richmond,  York,  Windsor,  and  Chester  —  and  four  pursuiyants. 
Rouge  Croix,  Bluemantle,  Portcullis,  and  Rouge  Dragon.  The  main 
duty  of  the  corporation  is  to  make  out  and  preserve  the  pedigrees  and 
armorial  bearings  of  noble  families  and  to  conduct  such  royal  ceremonials 
as  are  in  the  department  of  the  Earl-Marshal.  It  also  grants  arms  and 
records  royal  warrants  of  precedency  and  changes  of  name. 

On  the  S.  side  of  Queen  Victoria  Street,  farther  on,  are  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Salvation  Army,  and  on  the  N.  side  are  the  churches 
of  St.  Nicholas  Cole  Abbey  and  St.  Mary  Aldermaryy  two  of  Wren's 
reconstructions.  Nearly  opposite  the  latter  of  these,  in  which  Milton 
was  married  to  his  third  wife  (Feb.  24th,  1663),  Queen  Victoria 
Street  intersects  Gannon  Strbbt,  the  most  direct  route  between 
St.  Paul's  Churchyard  and  London  Bridge,  and  Queen  Street  (p.  107), 
leading  from  Cheapside  to  Southwark  Bridge  (p.  131).    Near  the 
intersection,  facing  Bread  Street,  is  St,  Mildred? e  Church,  built  by 
Wren  (1683)  and  containing,  like  many  others  of  the  City  churches, 
some  very  handsome  woodwork.   Shelley  married  Mary  Godwin  at 
this  church  on  Dec.  30th,  1816.    Gannon  Street,  which  is  ^3  M. 
long,  was  constructed  at  a  cost  of  589,470/.,  and  opened  in  1854. 
This  street  contains  the  Cannon  Street  (p.  32)  and  Mansion  House 
(p.  32)  stations  of  the  Metropolitan  District  Railway,  and  also  the 
extensiye  Cannon  Street  Station,  the  Gity  Terminus  of  the  South 
Eastern  and  Ghatham  Railway  (p.  27 }  hotel,  see  p.  8).    Opposite  the 
last  stands  the  church  of  St.  Swithin,  popularly  regarded  as  the  saint 
of  the  weather,  rebuUt  by  Wren  in  1678 ;  into  its  S.  wall  is  built  the 
London  Stone,  an  old  Roman  milestone,  supposed  to  have  been  the 
milliarium  of  the  Roman  forum  in  London,  from  which  the  distances 
along  the  various  British  highroads  were  reckoned.    Against  this 
stone,  which  is  now  protected  by  an  iron  gprating.  Jack  Cade  once 
struck  his  staff,  exclaiming  *Now  is  Mortimer  lord  of  the  city\    In 
St«  Swithin's  Lane  stands  the  large  range  of  premises  known  as 


The  City.  8.  THB  TOWER.  131 

^New  Court\  occupied  by  MesBis.  Rothschild.  —  Close  by  is  Saltera^ 
Hall,  with  portraits  of  George  III.  and  Queen  Charlotte  bv  Reynolds 
(usually  shown  on  application),  and  near  It  was  Salters'  Hall  Chapel, 
begun  by  the  ejected  minister  Richard  Mayo  in  1667,  and  long 
celebrated  for  its  preachers  and  theological  disputations.  —  Down 
to  1853  the  Steel  Yard,  at  one  time  a  factory  or  storehouse  of  the 
Hanseatio  League,  established  In  1260,  stood  on  the  site  now  oc- 
cupied by  the  Cannon  Street  Terminus.  —  Adjacent  to  the  station, 
on  the  W.,  is  Dowgate  Hill,  with  the  Hall  of  the  Skinners,  who 
were  incorporated  in  1327.  The  court  (with  its  wooden  porch) 
and  interior  were  built  soon  after  the  Fire ;  the  staircase  and  the 
wainscoted  'Cedar  Room*  are  interesting.  The  fine  plate  of  this 
company  includes  the  curious  ^Cockayne  Cups'  of  1665.  —  Cannon 
Street  ends  at  the  Monument,  beyond  which  it  is  continued  by 
Easteheap  and  Oreat  Tower  Street  to  Tower  Hill  (p.  138). 

Sonthwark  Bridge  (PI.  R,  38 ;  ///),  erected  by  Sir  John  Rennie 
in  1816-19,  at  a  cost  of  800,000^.,  is  700  ft.  long,  and  consists  of 
three  iron  arches ,  borne  by  stone  piers.  The  span  of  the  central 
arch  is  240ft.,  that  of  the  side  ones  210  ft.  The  traffic  is  compar- 
atiyely  small  on  account  of  the  inconvenience  of  the  approaches, 
but  has  of  late  greatly  increased.  In  South wark,  on  the  S.  bank, 
Hes  Barclay  and  Perkinses  Brewery  (p.  377).  The  river  farther  down 
is  crossed  by  the  imposing  flve-arched  railway-bridge  of  the  South 
Eastern  and  Chatham  Railway  (terminus  at  Cannon  Street  Station, 
see  p.  130). 

8.    The  Tower. 

Trinity  House.    Royal  Mint.    Tower  Bridge. 

The  Tower  is  conveniently  reached  by  the  District  Railway  to  Mark 
Lame  Station  (PI.  R,  42;  ///);  or  by  omnibus  from  Liverpool  Street. 

The  Tower  (PI.  R,  46 ;  ///),  the  ancient  fortress  and  gloomy 
state-prison  of  London,  and  historically  the  most  interesting  spot  in 
England,  is  an  irregular  mass  of  buildings  erected  at  various  per- 
iods, surrounded  by  a  battlemented  wall  and  a  deep  moat,  which 
was  drained  in  1843.  It  stands  on  the  bank  of  the  Thames,  to  the 
E.  of  the  City,  and  outside  the  bounds  of  the  ancient  city-walls. 
The  present  external  appearance  of  the  Tower  is  very  unlike  what 
it  originally  was,  perhaps  no  fortress  of  the  same  age  having 
undergone  greater  transformations.  Though  at  first  a  royal  palace 
and  stronghold,  the  Tower  is  best  known  in  history  as  a  prison.  It 
is  now  a  government  arsenal,  and  is  still  kept  in  repair  as  a  fortress. 
The  ground-plan  is  in  the  form  of  an  irregular  pentagon,  which 
covers  an  area  of  13  acres,  and  is  enclosed  by  a  double  line  of  cir- 
eumvallation  (the  outer  and  inner  ballium  or  ward"),  strengthened 
with  towers.  The  square  White  "Tower  rises  conspicuously  in  the 
centre.  A  broad  quay,  with  a  gun-park,  lies  between  the  moat  and 
the  Thames. 

9« 


132  8.  THE  TOWER.  The  City. 

It  is  possible,  though  very  doubtful,  that  a  fortification  of  some  kind 
stood  OB  this  site  in  Boman  times  ^  but  the  Tower  of  London  properly 
originated  with  William  the  Conqueror  (see  p.  zviii).  The  oldest  part  of 
the  fortress  is  the  WMU  Tower  (p.  134).  begun  about  1078  on  a  site  pre- 
viously oecupied  hy  two  bastions  built  by  King  Alfred  in  836.  The  archi- 
tect was  Qnndulf,  Bishop  of  Rochester.  It  is  said  to  owe  its  name  to  the 
fact  that  its  walls  were  whitewashed  in  1340.  Under  William  II.  (10S7- 
1100)  the  inner  ward  was  surrounded  by  a  wall,  while  the  moat  was  made 
by  Richard  I.  (1189-99),  but  the  most  extensive  additions  were  due  to 
Henry  III.  (1216-7!^,  from  whose  reign  dates  the  greater  part  of  the  pre- 
sent fortifications.  The  Chapel  in  the  White  Tower  is  mentioned  for  the 
first  time  in  1189,  the  Church  of  8L  Peter  in  1210.  The  Royal  Reiidence^ 
which  stood  to  the  S.E.  of  the  White  Tower,  was  probably  erected  by  the 
heginning  of  the  13th  cent.;  most  of  it,  including  the  great  hall  in  which 
Anne  Boleyn  was  tried,  was  pulled  down  by  Cromwell  (16i9-68),  and  the 
remainder  has  since  disappeared,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  fragment 
of  the  Wardrobe  Tower  (see  Plan).  Charle*  II.,  who  here  spent  the  night 
before  his  coronation  (1631),  was  the  last  monarch  who  has  resided  in 
the  Tower. 

The  list  of  celebrated  Ps'.sjnebs  in  the  Tower  is  a  long  one.  Among 
those  who  were  haried  in  the  church  of  St.  Peter  ad  Vin:ula  (p.  137)  were  : 
Sir  Thomas  More,  be'jeaded  1535  (but  comp.  p.  369) ;  Anne  Boleyn,  be- 
headed 1536^  Thomas  Cromwell,  Earl  of  Essex,  beheaded  1540;  Margaret 
Pole,  Countess  of  Salisbury,  beheaded  1541;  Queen  Catharine  Howard, 
beheaded  15V2;  Lord  Admiral  Seymoar  of  Sndeley,  beheaded  1549;  Lord 
Somerset,  the  Protector,  beheaded  1552;  John  Dudley,  Earl  of  Warwick 
and  Dake  of  Northumberland,  beheaded  1553;  Lady  Jane  Grey  and  her 
husband,  Lord  Qaildf  )rd  Dudley,  beheaded  1554;  Robert  Devereux,  Earl 
of  Esex,  beheadel  1601;  Sir  Thomas  Overbury,  poisoned  ia  the  Tower 
in  1613;  Sir  John  Eliot  died  as  a  prisoner  in  the  Tower  1632;  James 
Fitzroy,  Duke  of  Monmouth,  beheaded  16S5;  Simon,  Lord  Eraser  of  Lovat, 
beheided  1747.  The  executions  took  place  in  the  Tower  itself  only  in  the 
cases  of  Anne  Boleyn,  Catharine  Howard,  the  Countess  of  Salisbury,  Lady 
Jane  Grey,  and  Devereux,  Earl  of  Essex;  in  all  the  other  instances  the 
prisoners  were  beheided  at  the  public  place  of  execu4oa  on  Tower  Hill 
(see  p.  138). 

Other  celebrated  persons  who  were  confined  for  a  longer  or  shorter 
period  in  the  Tower  are:  John  Baliol,  King  of  Scotland,  1296;  William 
Wallace,  the  Scottish  patriot,  1305;  David  Bruce,  King  of  Scotland,  1347; 
King  John  of  France  (taken  prisoner  at  Poitiers,  1353);  Duke  of  Orleans, 
father  of  Louis  XIL  of  France,  1415;  Lord  Cobham,  themoit  distinguished 
of  the  Lollards  (burned  as  a  heretic  at  St.  Giles  in  the  Fields,  1416);  Ring 
Henry  VI.  (who  ij  said  to  have  been  murdered  in  the  Wakefield  Tower 
by  the  Duke  of  Gloucester,  1471);  Anne  Askew  (tortured  in  the  Tower, 
and  burned  in  Smithfield  as  a  heretic,  1546);  Archbishop  Cranmer,  1553; 
Sir  Tomas  Wyatt  (beheaded  on  Tower  Hill  in  1554)  ;  Earl  of  Southampton, 
Shakspeare's  patron,  i5'62\  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  (see  p.  134;  beheaded  at 
Westminster  in  1618);  Earl  of  Strafford  (beheaded  1641)  ^  Archbishop  Laud 
(beheaded  1645) ;  Viscount  Stafford  (beheaded  1680) ;  Lord  William  Russell 
(beheaded  1683);  Lord  Chancellor  Jeffreys,  1683;  Duke  of  Marlborough, 
1692,  etc.  The  last  prisoners  confined  in  the  Tower  were  Thistlewood 
and  the  other  Cato  Street  conspirators,  hanged  in  1820. 

The  principal  entiance  to  the  Tower  (adm.,  see  p.  82),  or  Lions* 
OatCj  80  called  from  the  royal  menagerie  formerly  kept  here,  Is  on  the 
W.  side,  in  Tower  Hill.  (The  lions  were  removed  to  the  Zoological 
Gardens  in  Regent's  Park  in  1834.)  To  the  right  is  the  Ticket  Office^ 
where  tickets  are  procured  for  the  Armoury  (6d.)  and  the  Crown 
Jewels  (6  d.).  Free  days  should  be  ayoided  on  account  of  the  crowd. 
A  simple  Refreshment  Room  adjoins  the  ticket  office.  The  quaintly- 
attired  Wardert  or  Beef-eaters^  who  are  stationed  at  different  parts 


P    a    r     a    d     e 

iflbld 


Officers 


[Qiiartei^ 


:iers\|   , 


:i  ^!gh 


,^         MenfeJ 

LBin 


Wagneir  &.  Debes '  Geoff  Estabi-  Leipsie. 


The  City.  8.  THE  TOWER.  133 

of  the  building ,  are  all  old  soldiers  of  meritorious  service.  The 
term  Beef-eater  is  commonly  explained  as  a  corruption  of  Buffetiers, 
or  attendants  at  the  royal  Buffet,  but  is  more  probably  a  nickname 
bestQwed  upon  the  ancient  Yeomen  of  the  Quard  from  their  yreW- 
fed  appearance  or  the  fact  that  rations  of  beef  were  regularly  served 
out  to  them  when  on  duty.  The  names  of  the  different  towers, 
gates,  etc.,  are  now  indicated  by  placards,  and  the  most  interesting 
objects  in  the  armouries  also  bear  inscriptions.  The  Ouidea  to  the 
Tower  {id,  and  6(i.;  both  by  W.  J.  Loftie)  are  almost  unnecessary, 
except  to  those  who  take  a  special  interest  in  old  armour. 

We  here  describe  the  parts  usually  open  to  visitors  in  the  pre- 
scribed order.  Visitors  really  interested  may  usually  obtain,  on 
application  to  the  Governor  in  Residence,  a  'special  warder  pa8s\ 
admitting  to  parts  not  shown  to  the  general  public.  Among  these 
are  Sir  Walter  RaleigVs  prison  in  the  White  Tower ;  the  dungeons 
below,  including  'Little  Ease',  where  Guy  Fawkes  was  confined ;  the 
place  in  which  the  rack  was  set  up;  the  interior  of  St.  Peter's 
Church,  etc.  (gratuity  to  warder). 

To  the  left  of  the  entrance,  opposite  the  Ticket  Office ,  is  a 
Turkish  cannon,  presented  by  Sultan  Abdul  Medjid  Khan  in  1867. 
A  stone  bridge,  between  two  towers  {Middle  lower  and  Byward 
Tower") y  leads  across  the  moat  (which  can  still  be  flooded  by  the 
garrison)  into  the  Outer  Bail  or  anterior  court.  On  the  left  is  the 
Bell  Tower,  adjacent  to  which  is  a  narrow  passage,  leading  round 
the  fortifications  within  the  outer  wall.  Farther  on,  to  the  right, 
is  the  Traitors^  Gate,  a  double  gateway  on  the  Thames,  by  which 
state-prisoners  were  formerly  admitted  to  the  Tower ;  above  it  is 
St.  Thomas's  Tower.  A  gateway  opposite  leads  under  the  Bloody 
Tower  (p.  137),  with  its  portcullis,  to  the  Inner  Bail.  Immediately 
to  the  right  is  the  round  Wakefield  Tower  (p.  137),  also  called 
Record  Tower  from  the  fact  that  it  contained  the  public  records 
until  1856.   Here  are  now  preserved  the  — 

CnowN  Jewels,  or  Regalia.  During  the  confusion  that  prevailed 
after  the  execution  of  Charles  I.  the  royal  ornaments  and  part  of 
the  Regalia,  including  the  ancient  crown  of  King  Edward  the  Con- 
fessor, were  sold.  The  crowns  and  jewels  made  to  replace  these 
after  the  Restoration  retain  the  ancient  names.  The  Regalia  are 
preserved  in  a  glass-case,  protected  by  a  strong  iron  cage. 

St.  Edward"*  Crown ,  executed  for  the  coronation  of  Charles  II.  TIii« 
was  the  crown  stolen  in  1671  by  Col.  Blood  and  his  accomplices,  who 
overpowered  and  gagged  the  keeper.  The  bold  robbers,  however,  did  not 
succeed  in  escaping  with  their  booty.  The  Kirg^t  Crown ^  origirally  made 
in  1838  for  Queen  Victoria  and  altered  in  19U2  for  Edward  VII.,  is  a 
masterpiece  of  the  modern  goldsmith^s  art,  adorned  with  no  fewer  than 
28L8  diamondfi,  cOO  pearls,  and  other  gems.  The  uncut  ruby  (^spinel") 
in  front,  said  to  have  been  given  to  the  Black  Prince  in  1367  by  Don 
Pedro  of  Castile,  was  worn  by  Henry  V.  on  his  helmet  at  the  battle  of 
Agincourt.  The  large  sapphire  below  is  said  to  have  belonged  to  Edward 
the  Confessor.  The  Prince  of  Wales**  Crown,  of  pure  gold,  without 
precious  stones.    The  Queen   Consorfs  Crown,  of  gold,  set  with  jewels. 


134  8.  THE  TOWER.  The  City. 

The  Queen^s  Croton^  a  golden  circlet,  embellished  with  diamonds  and  pearls, 
made  for  Queen  Maria  d'Este,  wife  of  James  II.  St.  Edward's  8Unff^  made 
of  gold,  4V2  ft.  long  and  abont  90  lbs.  in  weight.  The  orb  at  the  top  is 
said  to  contain  a  piece  of  the  true  cross.  The  Rityal  Sceptre  with  the 
cross,  2  ft.  9  in.  long,  richly  adorned  with  precious  stones.  The  Sceptre 
of  the  Dove^  or  Rod  of  Equity.  Above  the  orb  is  a  dove  with  outspread 
wings.  The  Royal  Sceptre^  with  richly  gemmed  cross.  The  Ivory 
Sceptre  of  Queen  Maria  d'Este,  surmounted  by  a  dove  of  white  onyx. 
The  Sceptre  of  Queen  Mary^  wife  of  William  m.  The  Orbs  of  the  King 
and  Queen.  Model  of  the  Koh-i-Noor  (Mountain  of  Light),  one  of  the 
largest  diamonds  known,  weighing  162  carats.  The  original,  now  at 
Windsor  Castle,  was  formerly  in  the  possession  of  Bunjeet  Singh,  Bajah 
of  Lahore,  and  came  into  Uie  hands  of  the  English  in  1849,  on  their 
conquest  of  the  Punjab.  The  Curtana^  or  pointless /STtroref  of  Mercy.  The 
Swords  of  Justice.  The  Coronation  Bracelets.  The  Royal  Spurs.  The  Coro- 
nation Oil  Vessel  or  Ampulla^  in  the  form  of  an  eagle.  The  Spoon  belong- 
ing to  the  ampulla,  thought  to  be  the  only  relic  of  the  ancient  regalia. 
The  Salt  Cellar  of  State^  in  the  form  of  a  model  of  the  White  Tower. 
The  silver-gilt  Baptismal  Font  for  the  royal  children.  A  silver  Wine  Foun- 
tain given  by  the  Corporation  of  Plymouth  to  Charles  II.  Gold  Basin  used 
in  the  distribution  of  the  Elng^s  alms  on  Maundy  Thursday.  The  total 
value  of  the  Regalia  is  estimated  at  3,000,0001. 

The  cases  at  the  side  contain  the  insignia  of  the  Order*  of  the  Garter^ 
Star  of  India,  the  Baih^  St.  Michael  and  St,  George,  Thistle,  St.  Foirick^ 
Crown  of  India,  Royal  Victorian  Order,  etc.  \  also  the  Victoria  Cross^  the 
Distinguished  Service  Order,  and  others. 

On  quitting  the  Wakefield  Tower,  close  to  which  is  the  new  Ouard 
House,  a  somewhat  incongruous  block  of  red  brick  buildings  (1900), 
we  retrace  our  steps  under  the  Bloody  Tower,  turn  to  the  left,  and 
pass  through  a  gateway  on  the  left  Into  the  Inner  Bail.  In  front 
of  us  is  the  gun-carriage  on  which  the  remains  of  Queen  Victoria 
were  finally  conveyed  to  the  mausoleum  at  Frogmore  (p.  431).  In 
the  centre  of  the  court,  upon  slightly  rising  ground,  stands  the 
*Whitb  Towbb,  or  Keep,  the  most  ancient  part  of  the  fortress 
(p.  132).  It  measures  107  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  and  118  ft.  from  E. 
to  W.,  and  is  92  ft.  high.  The  walls  are  13-15  ft.  thick,  and  are 
surmounted  with  turrets  at  the  angles.  The  original  Norman  windows, 
with  the  exception  of  four  on  the  S.  side,  were  altered  in  the  classical 
style  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren  in  1663-1709.  Among  the  many  im- 
portant scenes  enacted  in  this  tower  may  be  mentioned  the  abdication 
of  Richard  II.  in  favour  of  Henry  of  Bolingbroke  In  1399.  We 
enter  on  the  S.  side  and  ascend  to  the  second  floor  by  a  winding 
staircase  passing  through  the  massive  wall.  It  was  under  this  stair- 
case  that  the  bones  conjectured  to  be  those  of  the  two  young  princes 
murdered  by  their  uncle  Richard  III.  (see  p.  137)  were  found.  On 
the  first  floor  are  two  apartments,  said  to  have  been  those  in  which 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh  was  confined  and  wrote  his  History  of  the  World 
(1605-17;  closed).  The*  Chapel  of  St.  John,  on  the  second  floor, 
with  its  massive  pillars  and  cubical  capitals,  its  wide  triforium, 
its  apse  borne  by  stilted  round  arches  (somewhat  resembling  those 
of  St.  Bartholomew's,  p.  101),  and  its  barrel- vaulted  ceiling,  is  one 
of  the  finest  and  best-preserved  specimens  of  Norman  architecture 
in  England.    The  other  rooms  contain  the  armoury. 


The  City.  8.   THK  TOWER,  135 

The  *CoLLBOTioN  07  Old  Abmoub,  in  the  two  uppej  floors  of 
the  White  Tower,  though  not  equal  to  the  host  Continental  collec- 
tions of  the  kind,  is  yet  of  great  value  and  interest  The  rooms  on 
the  second  floor  contain  Eastern  arms  and  armour,  the  more  modem 
European  arms,  and  a  numhei  of  personal  relics.  The  main  por- 
tion of  the  collection  is  in  the  Oouncil  Chamber,  including  a  series 
of  equestrian  figures  in  full  equipment,  as  well  as  numerous  figures 
on  foot,  affording  a  faithful  picture,  in  approximately  chronologioal 
order,  of  English  war-array  from  the  time  of  Edward  I.  (1272)  down 
to  that  of  James  II.  (1688).  In  the  Norman  period  armour  consisted 
either  of  leather,  cut  into  small  pieces  like  the  scales  of  a  fish, 
or  of  flat  rings  of  steel  sewn  on  to  leather.  Chain  mail  was  intro- 
duced from  the  East  in  the  time  of  Henry  III.  (1216-72).  Plates 
for  the  arms  and  legs  were  introduced  in  the  reign  of  Edward  II. 
(1307-27),  and  complete  suits  of  plate  armourcame  intense  under 
Henry  y.  (1413-22).  The  glass-oases  contain  yarious  smaller  objects 
of  interest.  —  On  quitting  St.  John's  Chapel  we  enter  the  — 

Eabt  Room  on  the  second  floor.  The  walls  and  ceilings  of  this  and 
the  next  room  are  adorned  with  trophies  of  arms  in  the  form  of  stars, 
flowers  f  coats-of-arms ,  and  the  like,  in  the  cases  and  on  the  walls  are 
armour  and  weapons  from  Asia,  America,  Africa,  and  the  South  Sea  Islands. 
In  the  middle  of  the  room  are  two  models  of  the  Tower  at  different  periods  \ 
and  at  the  end  is  a  large  Burmese  bell.  The  ex«cutioner*s  sword  from 
Oude  in  Cdse  11  (to  the  right  of  the  bell)  should  be  noticed.  —  We  now 
enter  the  — 

BANQUBTiNa*HALL.  In  the  cases  are  British  and  other  European  weapons 
of  the  i9th  century.  In  ihe  window  recess  beside  the  entrance  is  a 
beautiful  Maltese  cannon,  captured  from  the  French  by  a  British  frigate 
in  1793.  Ai  the  head  of  the  roum,  between  two  grotesque  wooden  figures, 
known  as  ^Oin*  and  'Beer%  is  a  case  containing  instruments  of  torture. 
To  the  left  is  the  block  on  which  Lord  Loyat,  the  last  person  beheaded 
in  England,  sull'ered  the  penalty  of  high  treason  on  Tower  Hill  in  1747. 
Beside  it  is  a  heading-axe,  which  has  been  in  the  Tower  since  1687.  To 
the  right,  two  chased  brass  guns  made  for  the  Duke  of  Gloucester,  son 
of  Queen  Anne,  who  died  in  1700  at  the  age  of  eleven.  Behind  are  five 
bells  captured  at  Bomarsund  in  1854.  The  adjacent  large  glass  case  con- 
tains the  gorgeous  coronation-rubes  worn  by  Edward  VII.  and  Queen 
Alexandra  (1902).  In  the  centre  of  the  room:  Model  of  the  Tower  in  1882. 
JXo  the  left  are  two  cases  containing  the  uniform  worn  by  the  Duke  of 
Wellington  as  Constable  of  the  Tower  and  the  cloak  upon  which  General 
Wolfe  died  before  Quebec  in  1759.  To  the  right  are  early  cannon  and 
shot ;  also  part  of  the  pump  of  the  'Mary  Bo8e\  sunk  in  1545  and  recovered 
in  1840.  To  the  right,  beside  the  lift,  two  drums  captured  at  Blenheim 
(1704)^  portion  of  the  keel  of  the  *Royal  George'.  —  We  now  ascend  the 
winding-stair  beside  the  lift  to  the  — 

Council  Cuambbb,  in  which  the  abdication  of  Richard  II.  took  place. 
To  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance  are  specimens  of  early  chain-mail 
and  quilted  doublets  (jacks)  of  the  15-16th  cent.,  etc.  We  turn  to  the  left. 
The  cases  in  Bay  1  contain  Roman,  Greek,  British,  Anglo-Saxon,  and  other 
early  arms  and  armour.  In  the  stands  and  on  the  walls  of  this  and  the  next 
room  are  European  staff-weapons  of  the  15-17th  cent,  (halberds,  partizans, 
bills,  boar-spears,  etc.).  In  the  adjoining  Case  25,  Roundel  (shield)  with 
lantern  for  night -attacks,  of  the  time  of  Henry  VIII.  In  Bay  2,  three 
suits  of  armour  of  the  15-16th  centuries.  The  finest  suits  of  armour  are 
displayed  on  a  series  of  equestrian  figures,  interspersed  among  which  are . 
numerous  weapons  of  the  periods  illustrated  by  the  suits  of  armour.  To 
t)ie  ri|^ht,  8.    Early  i6th  cent,  suit^  made  in  l^furemberg  \  the  horse-armotfr 


136  8.   THE  TOWER.  Tht  City, 

shows  the  Burgundian  cross;  to  the  left,  4.  Fluted  suit  of  the  time  of 
Henry  VII41486-1509).  —  The  following  suits  of  armour  belonged  to  Henry  VIII. 
(1509-47) :  to  the  right,  26.  Foot-armour,  29.  Armour  known  as  a  tonlet ; 
to  the  left,  6,  7.  Equestrian  suits,  one  partly  gilt;  to  the  right,  *5.  Magnifi- 
cent suit,  of  German  workmanship,  said  to  have  been  presented  by  the 
Emperor  Maximilian  to  Henry  VIII.  in  1514.  Among  the  numerous  etched 
ornaments  the  rose  and  pomegranate,  the  badges  of  Henry  and  Catharine 
of  Aragon,  are  of  frequent  recurrence;  the  other  cognisances  of  Henry, 
the  portcullis,  fleur-de-lys,  and  dragon,  and  the  initials  of  the  royal  pair 
connected  by  a  true-lover's  knot,  also  appear.  On  the  armour  of  the 
horse  are  engraved  scenes  of  martyrdom.  —  In  Bay  4  (left)  is  a  suit  of 
tourney-armour  of  the  16th  cent.;  beside  it,  a  so-called  pistol-shield  (time 
of  Henry  VIII.)  and  a  helmet  with  ram^s  horns  and  a  mask,  also  pre- 
sented by  Maximilian  to  Henry  VIII.  —  In  the  corner  by  the  window 
are  a  German  tilting-saddle  (1470),  several  tilting-Iances  (including  one 
said  to  have  belonged  to  the  Duke  of  Suffolk),  and  other  equipments 
for  the  lists.  The  armour  at  the  end  of  the  room  dates  chiefly  from  the 
16th  cent.;  the  damascened  suit  in  the  centre  (No.  45)  is  of  tbe  17th  cent. ; 
No.  30  is  a  suit  for  a  man  7  ft.  in  height.  —  We  now  follow  the  other 
side  of  the  room.  To  the  left:  9.  Suit  of  the  Earl  of  Worcester  (d.  1589); 
behind,  bowman  and  musketeer  of  the  same  period;  8.  Suit  of  the 
16th  cent.,  formerly  said  to  belong  to  Sir  Henry  Lee,  Master  of  the 
Armouries  to  Queen  Elizabeth  (1570).  10.  Suit  actually  worn  by  Robert 
Dudley,  Earl  of  Leicester  (1580),  the  favourite  of  Queen  Elizabeth;  the 
armour  bears  his  initials  and  crest.  12.  Tournament -suit  of  Sir  John 
Smith  (d.  1607),  worn  by  the  king's  champion  at  the  coronation  of  George  11. 
At  the  end  of  the  room  are  electrotype  reproductions  of  shields,  pieces 
of  armour,  etc.,  including  a  copy  of  the  shield  at  Windsor  ascribed  to 
Cellini.  —  We  turn  to  the  left  and  enter  the  — 

East  Boom  on  the  third  floor.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  case 
with  maces  and  axes  and  specimens  illustrating  the  evolution  of  the  bayonet. 
In  the  case  to  the  right  are  cross-bows,  and  two  English  long-bows  of  yew 
recovered  from  the  wreck  of  the  *Mary  Rose'  (see  p.  135).  On  the  left  side 
of  the  room  are  figures  of  horsemen  and  pikemen  of  the  17th  cent.,  and  at 
the  end  of  the  room  are  wall- cases  containing  helmets,  morions,  etc. 
Returning  by  the  opposite  side  of  the  room  we  notice:  17.  Suit,  richly 
inlaid  with  gold,  belonging  to  Henry,  Prince  of  Wales  (1612),  eldest  son 
of  James  I. ;  18.  Suit  of  French  workmanship,  worn  by  Charles  I.  as  Prince 
of  Wales;  19.  Gilt  suit  presented  to  Charles  I.  by  the  City  of  London;  24. 
Mounted  figure  with  slight  suit  of  armour  that  belonged  to  James  II.  (1685), 
after  whoje  time  armour  was  rarely  worn.  The  cases  at  the  top  of  the 
room  contain  rapiers  and  bucklers  and  early  firearms,  some  of  which  are 
breechloaders.  The  table -cases  contain  portions  of  armour,  daggers, 
swords,  etc.  In  the  cases  on  the  exit-wall  are  belmets,  morions,  etc.  of 
various  dates.  Immediately  to  the  right  of  the  exit,  at  the  left  end  of  the 
third  shelf,  is  a  helmet  (modern),  worn  by  Louis  Napoleon  (Napoleon  III.) 
at  the  Eglinton  Tournament  in  1839. 

At  the  foot  of  the  staircase  by  which  we  leave  the  White  Tower  are 
some  fragments  of  the  old  State  Barge  of  the  Master-General  of  the  Ord- 
nance (broken  up  in  1859),  with  the  arms  of  the  Duke  of  Marlborough 
and  other  decorations  in  carved  and  gilded  oak. 

Outside  the  White  Tower  is  an  interesting  collection  of  old 
cannon,  some  ofvery  heavy  calibre,  chiefly  ofthe  time  of  Henry  VIII., 
but  one  going  back  to  the  reign  of  Henry  YI.  (1422-61).  — We 
now  cross  the  *Tower  Green'  to  the  Beauchamp  Tower,  on  the  W. 
side,  the  only  other  part  of  the  Tower  shown  to  ordinary  visitors. 
On  the  way  we  pass  the  site  of  the  scaffold,  marked  by  a  railing. 

The  Bbatjchamp  Towbb,  built  by  Edward  III.  (1327-77),  con- 
sists of  three  stories,  which  are  connected  by  a  narrow  winding 


The  City,  8.    THE  TOWER.  137 

staircase.  The  walls  of  the  room  on  the  first  floor  are  coyered  with 
inscriptions  by  former  prisoners,  including  some  transferred  hither 
from  other  parts  of  the  Tower.  The  Inscription  of  John  Dudley, 
Earl  of  Warwick,  eldest  brother  of  Lord  Guildford  Dudley,  is  on 
the  right  side  of  the  fire-place,  and  Is  a  well  executed  family  coat- 
of-arms  with  the  following  lines :  — 

*Tow  that  these  beasts  do  wel  behold  and  se. 

May  deme  with  ease  wherefore  here  made  they  be 

Withe  borders  wherein 

4  brothers^  names  who  list  to  serche  the  grovnd\ 
Near  the  recess  in  the  N.W.  corner  is  the  word  Ianb  (repeated 
in  the  window),  supposed  to  represent  the  signature  of  Lady  Jane 
Grey  as  queen ,  but  not  inscribed  by  herself.  Above  the  fire-place 
is  a  Latin  inscription  left  by  Philip  Howard,  Earl  of  Arundel,  eldest 
son  of  the  Duke  of  Norfolk  who  was  beheaded  in  1573  for  aspiring 
to  the  hand  of  Mary ,  Queen  of  Scots.  The  earliest  inscription  is 
that  of  Thomas  Talbot,  1462.  The  inscriptions  in  the  upper  cham- 
ber (not  shown)  are  less  interesting. 

The  thirteen  Towbbs  of  the  Inner  Ward,  at  one  time  all  used  as 
prisons,  were  afterwards  employed  in  part  for  the  custody  of  the 
state  archives.  The  names  of  several  of  them  are  indissolubly  as- 
sociated with  many  dark  and  painful  memories.  In  the  Bloody 
Tower  (freed  in  1900  from  its  disfiguring  coat  of  stucco)  the  sons  of 
Edward  IV.  are  said  to  have  been  murdered,  by  order  of  Richard  III. 
(comp.  pp.  134,  241);  others  ascribe  the  name  to  the  suicide  of 
Henry,  8th  Duke  of  Northumberland,  in  1585.  In  the  Bell  Tower 
the  Princess  Elizabeth  was  confined  by  her  sister  Queen  Mary,  and 
Arabella  Stuart  was  imprisoned  for  four  years;  Lady  Jane  Grey 
is  said  to  have  been  imprisoned  in  Brick  Tower;  Lord  Guildford 
Dudley,  husband  of  Lady  Jane  Grey,  was  confined,  with  his  father 
and  brothers,  in  B^aucAam;)  roiP«r(seep.  136) ;  in  the  Bowytr  Tower ^ 
the  Duke  of  Clarence,  brother  of  Edward  IV.,  is  popularly  supposed 
to  have  been  drowned  in  a  butt  of  malmsey;  and  Henry  VI.  was 
commonly  believed  to  have  been  murdered  in  Wakefield  (Record) 
Tower,  The  Salt  Tower  contains  a  curious  drawing  of  the  zodiac, 
by  Hugh  Draper  of  Bristol,  who  was  confined  here  in  1561  on  a 
charge  of  sorcery.  The  Lanthorn  Tower  was  entirely  rebuilt  in  1882. 
At  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  Tower  Green  is  the  church  of  St. 
Petbb  ad  Vincula  (interior  sometimes  accessible  for  a  fee),  built 
in  its  present  form  by  Henry  VIII.,  and  restored  in  1877.  The 
original  church,  probably  built  by  Henry  II.,  was  burned  in  1512. 
The  church  preserves  its  open  oak  roof  of  the  16th  cent,  and  contains 
various  monuments  chiefiy  connected  with  governors  of  the  Tower. 
The  organ,  originally  constructed  by  Father  Schmitz  (p.  88),  was 
brought  hither  in  1893  from  the  old  Chapel  Royal  at  Whitehall 
(p.  213).  On  the  wall,  to  the  N.  of  the  exit,  we  notice  the  leaden 
inscribed  plates  found  interred  with  the  coffinless  remains  of  Lords 
Kilmarnock,  Balmerino,  and  Eraser  of  Lovat,  executed  in  1746-7. 


138  8.  TRINITY  HOUSE.  The  City. 

Adjoining  the  dmrch  is  a  small  bnrial-gTOtind,  and  a  list  of  cel- 
ebrated persons  burled  in  tbe  church  is  given  on  p.  132. 


4n  traih,  there  is  no  sadder  spot  on  earth  than  this  little  cemetery. 
"   *     *  .  .   -  J  ijj  Westminster  Abbey  and  "' 

veneration  and  with  imperii 
renown  \  not,  as  in  onr  humblest  churches  and  churchyards,  with  every- 


Death  is  there  associated,  not,  as  in  Westminster  Abbey  and  St.  Paulas, 
with  genius  and  virtue,   with  public  veneration  and  with  imperishable 


thing  that  is  most  endearing  in  social  and  domestic  charities  \  but  with 
whatever  is  darkest  in  human  nature  and  in  human  destiny,  with  the 
savage  triumph  of  implacable  enemies,  with  the  inconstancy,  the  ingrat- 
itude, the  cowardice  of  friends,  with  all  the  miseries  of  fallen  greatness 
and  of  blighted  fame\  —  Macaulay. 

The  large  modern  buildings  to  the  E.  (right)  of  St.  Peter's  Church 
are  the  Wellington  or  Waterloo  Barracks,  erected  in  1846  on  the 
site  of  the  Grand  Storehouse  and  Small  Armoury,  which  had  been 
destroyed  by  Are  in  1841.  The  armoury  at  the  time  of  the  conflagra- 
tion contained  150,000  stand  of  arms. 

On  Tower  Hill,  N.  W.  of  the  Tower,  formerly  stood  the  scaffold 
for  the  execution  of  traitors  (see  p.  132),  on  a  site  now  within 
Trinity  Square  gardens.  William  P^n  (comp.  p.  139)  was  born, 
and  Otway,  the  poet,  died  on  Tower  Hill,  and  here  too  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh's  wife  lodged  while  her  unfortunate  husband  languished 
in  the  Tower.  On  the  N.  side  rises  Trinity  HouBe>  a  plain  build- 
ing, erected  in  1793-96  from  designs  by  Wyatt,  the  fa^de  of  which 
is  embellished  with  the  arms  of  the  corporation,  medallion  portraits 
of  George  III.  and  Queen  Charlotte,  and  several  emblems  of  naviga- 
tion. This  building  is  the  property  of  *The  Master,  Wardens,  and 
Assistants  of  the  Guild,  Fraternity,  or  Brotherhood ,  of  the  most 
glorious  and  undividable  Trinity*,  a  company  founded  by  Sir  Thomas 
Spert  in  1515,  and  incorporated  by  Henry  VIII.  In  1629.  The  society 
consists  of  a  Master,  Deputy  Master,  24  Elder  Brethren,  and  an 
unrestricted  number  of  Younger  Brethren ,  and  was  founded  with 
a  view  to  the  promotion  and  encouragement  of  English  navigation. 
Its  rights  and  duties,  which  have  been  defined  by  various  acts  of 
parliament,  comprise  the  regulation  and  management  of  lighthouses 
and  buoys  round  the  British  coast,  and  the  appointment  and  licens- 
ing of  efficient  pilots.  Two  elder  brethren  of  Trinity  House  assist 
the  Admiralty  Court  in  deciding  all  cases  relating  to  collisions  at  sea. 
Its  surplus  funds  are  devoted  to  charitable  objects  connected  with 
sailors.  The  interior  of  Trinity  House  contains  busts  of  Admirals 
St.  Vincent,  Howe,  Duncan,  and  Nelson;  and  portraits  of  James  1. 
and  his  consort  Anne  of  Denmark,  James  II.,  Sir  Francis  Drake, 
and  others.  There  are  also  a  large  picture  of  several  Elder  Brethren 
by  Dupont,  a  small  collection  of  models  (including  one  of  the  old 
state  barge  of  the  Elder  Brethren),  and  various  naval  curiosities. 
In  the  visitors'  book  is  an  interesting  series  of  autographs.  The 
Prince  of  Wales  is  the  present  Master  of  Trinity  House,  while  King 
Edward  VII.  is  an  *Elder  Brother'.  The  annual  income  of  Trinity 
House  is  said  to  be  above  300,000^  Visitors  ^e  usually  admitted 
on  written  application. 


The  City,  8.   ROYAL  MINT.  139 

At  the  end  of  Great  Tower  Street,  to  the  W.  of  the  Tower,  is 
the  church  of  AU  HaUowi,  Barking  (PI.  R,  42 ;///),  founded  by  the 
nuns  of  Barking  Abbey  (p.  390),  in  Essex,  7  M.  distant.  Several 
times  altered,  the  charch  had  a  ^ery  narrow  escape  from  the  Great 
Fire  (see  Pepys's  Diary,  Sept.  6th,  1666)  and  since  1883  has  under- 
gone an  extensive  restoration,  especially  in  the  interior.  The  tower 
dates  from  the  17th  cent. ;  the  principal  porch  is  modem.  Upon  the 
latter  are  statues  of  St.  Ethelburga,  Arst  abbess  of  Barking  Abbey, 
and  Bishop  Lancelot  Andrewes  (b.  1555),  who  was  baptised  in  the 
church.  The  parish  register  records  also  the  baptism  of  William 
Penn  (Oct  23rd,  1644).  Archbishop  Laud  was  buried  in  the  grave- 
yard after  his  execution  on  Tower  Hill  (1645),  but  his  body  was 
removed  in  1663  to  the  chapel  of  St.  John^s  College,  Oxford,  of 
which  he  was  an  alumnus.  John  Quincy  Adams  was  here  married 
to  Louisa  Catherine  Johnson  on  July  26th,  1797.  All  Hallows  is 
noted  for  its  brasses,  the  oldest  of  which  (1389)  is  that  of  William 
Tonge  in  the  S.  aisle,  while  the  finest  is  a  Flemish  brass  of  1530, 
immediately  in  front  of  the  Litany  desk  (rubbings  from  6d.  upwards). 
—  The  Czar's  Head,  opposite  the  church,  is  said  to  occupy  the  site 
of  a  tavern  frequented  by  Peter  the  Great  (see  p.  158). 

The  Tower  Subway,  ftn  iron  tube  400  yds.  long  and  7  ft.  in  diameter, 
constructed  in  1870  for  20,000;.,  passing  under  the  Thames  from  the  S. 
side  of  Great  Tower  IIi]I,  was  closed  to  passengers  in  1897.  The  gloomy 
and  unpleasant  passage  is  now  occupied  by  a  gas-main. 

On  the  E.  side  of  Tower  Hill  stands  the  BoyalMint,  erected  in 
1811,  from  designs  by  Johnson  and  Smirke,  on  the  site  of  the  old 
Cistercian  Abbey  of  St.  Mary  of  the  Graces  (see  p.  226),  and  so  ex- 
tensively enlarged  in  1881 -82  as  to  be  practically  a  new  building.  The 
Mastership  of  the  Mint  (an  office  abolished  in  1869)  was  once  held 
by  Sir  Isaac  Newton  (1699-1727)  and  Sir  John  F.  W.  Herschel 
(1850-55).  Permission  to  visit  the  Miut  (for  not  more  than  six 
persons)  is  given  for  a  fixed  day  and  hour  by  the  Deputy-Master  of 
the  Mint,  on  written  application.  The  various  processes  of  coining 
are  extremely  interesting,  and  the  machinery  used  is  of  a  most  in- 
genious character.  Each  of  the  improved  presses  can  stamp  and 
mill  120  coins  per  minute.  The  cases  in  the  museum  contain  a 
large  number  of  coins  and  commemorative  medals,  including  spec- 
imens of  Maundy  money,  and  gold  pieces  of  2i.  and  5i.,  never 
brought  into  general  circulation. 

In  1903  the  value  of  the  money  coined  at  the  Mint  was  11,638,777J., 
including  888,627  sovereigns ;  2,523,057  half-sovereigns :  274,840  half-crowns : 
1,996,293  florins;  2,061,823  shillings;  5,410,096  sixpences;  5,234,864  three- 
pences; 21,415,296  pence:  11,460,8^0  half-pence;  and  5,331,200  farthings; 
besides  Maundy  money  (p.  822),  value  345^,  and  colonial  money,  value 
832,471Z.  In  1894-1903  there  were  here  prepared  for  issue  47,300,745  sover- 
eigns, 82.115,076  half-sovereigns,  19,440,432  half-crowns,  28,167,480  florins, 
75,327,120  shillings,  etc.;  of  bronze  coins  over  336,000,000  were  issued. 
The  average  annual  value  of  the  Imperial  coinage  issued  by  the  Mint  in 
1893-1902  was  7,591,495/.  The  average  annual  profit  of  the  Mint  is  about 
230,0001. 


140  8,    TOWER  BRIDGE.  The  City. 

Immediately  l)elow  the  Tower  the  Thames  is  spanned  by  the 
huge  ♦Tower  Bridge  (PI.  R,  46 ;  III),  built  by  the  Corporation  in 
1886-94.  This  bridge,  designed  by  Sir  Horace  Jones  and  Mr.  Wolfe 
Barry y  comprizes  a  permanent  footway,  142  ft.  above  high- water 
leyel,  reached  by  means  of  stairs  in  the  supporting  towers,  and  a 
carriage-way,  29V2  ft*  above  high- water,  the  central  span  of  which 
(200  ft.  long!  is  fitted  with  twin  bascules  or  draw-bridges,  which 
can  be  raised  in  IV2  niin.  for  the  passage  of  large  vessels.  The 
bascules  and  footway  are  borne  by  two  massive  Gothic  towers,  rising 
upon  huge  piers,  which  are  connected  with  the  river -banks  by 
permanent  spans  (each  270  ft.  long),  suspended  on  massive  chains 
hanging  between  the  central  towers  and  smaller  castellated  towers 
on  shore.  The  substantial  framework  of  the  bridge,  including  the 
central  towers,  which  are  cased  in  stone,  is  of  steel.  The  bridge  is 
1/2  M.  long,  and  has  cost  1,600,000^.,  including  the  new  S.  approach 
(made  by  the  County  Council),  which  was  opened  in  1902.  The 
annual  cost  of  maintenance  is  15,500^.  An  enumeration  made  in 
1903  showed  that  over  12,000  vehicles  crossed  the  Tower  Bridge 
daily,  while  the  daily  foot-passengers  average  50,000. 

9.  The  Port  and  Docks. 

St,  Katharine  Docks.  London  Docks.    Thames  Tunnel.   Rotherhithe 

Tunnel.    Surrey  Commercial  Docks.    West  and  East  India  Docks. 

Millwall  Docks.    Blackwall  Tunnel.   Victoria  and  Albert  Docks. 

The  Doclis  may  be  reached  by  Steamer  from  London  Bridge  (p.  33) ; 
by  Omnibiu',  or  by  Railway.  Trains  from  Fenchurch  St.  Station  (PI.  R,  43) 
every  20  min.  to  Leman  St.y  Shadwell,  Stepney,  Limehouse^  West  India  Docks, 
Millwall  Junction,  Poplar^  and  Blackwall  0/4  hr. ;  fares  6J.,  id.,  Sd. );  and 
every  V2  **'•  (8«^t.  every  1/4  hr.)  from  Millwall  Junction  to  South  Dock, 
Millwall  Docks,  and  North  Greenwich  (26  min. ',  fares  from  London  iOrf., 
Id.,  bd.).  Blackwall  Tunnel  leads  to  Greenwich  (p.  391).  Also  about  thrice 
an  hour  from  Fencharch  St.,  and  once  an  hour  from  Liverpool  St.  Station 
(PI.  R,  44)  to  the  Victoria  and  Albert  Docks  (to  Gallion  s  Station,  25-35  min.  i 
fares  lid.,  Sd.,  6d.). 

One  of  the  most  interesting  sights  of  London  is  the  Port,  with 
its  immense  warehouses,  the  centre  from  which  the  commerce  of 
England  radiates  all  over  the  globe.  The  Port  of  London,  begin- 
ning officially  at  Teddington  Lock  but  practically  at  London  Bridge, 
extends  to  the  mouth  of  the  Thames,  opposite  the  Isle  of  Sheppey, 
and  it  is  actually  occupied  by  shipping  nearly  all  the  way  to  Tilbury 
Docks.  About  one-fifth  of  the  total  shipping  annually  entering  the 
United  Kingdom  enters  London  (17,189,000  tons  in  1905);  the  im- 
ports of  London  are  about  one-tbird,  and  the  exports  about  one- 
fourth,  of  the  total  imports  and  exports  of  the  kingdom. 

Immediately  below  London  Bridge  begins  the  Pool  (p.  123), 
which  is  held  to  end  at  Limehouse  Reach.  Ships  bearing  the  produce 
of  every  nation  under  the  sun  here  discharge  their  cargoes,  which, 
previous  to  their  sale,  are  stored,  subject  to  customs,  in  large  bonded 


The  East  End.         9.  LONDON  DOCKS.  141 

warehouses  mostly  in  the  Dooki.  Below  these  warehouses,  which 
form  small  towns  of  themseWes,  and  extend  in  long  rows  along  the 
banks  of  the  Thames,  are  extensive  cellars  for  wine,  oil,  etc.,  while 
aboye  ground  are  huge  magazines,  landing-stages,  packing-yards, 
cranes,  and  eyery  kind  of  apparatus  necessary  for  the  loading,  un- 
loading, and  custody  of  goods.  The  docks  have  hitherto  been 
owned  by  various  private  joint-stock  companies,  the  principal  docks 
being  under  the  management  of  the  London  and  India  Docks  Com- 
pany, whose  estate  comprized  about  1700  acres,  with  20  M.  of  quays. 
Arrangements,  however,  have  recently  been  made  to  purchase  all 
the  docks  for  the  public,  and  it  is  proposed  to  place  them  under  a 
Docks  Boardj  consisting  of  representatives  of  the  various  authorities 
and  commercial  interests  involved. 

To  the£.  of  the  Tower,  and  separated  from  it  by  a  single  street, 
called  Lime  Tower  Hill,  arethe8t.KatharineDock8(Pl.R,  46;  7/7), 
opened  in  1828,  and  covering  an  area  of  23  acres,  on  which  1250 houses 
with  ll,300inhab.  formerly  stood.  The  old  St.  Katharine's  Hospital 
once  stood  on  this  site.  The  engineer  was  Telford,  and  the  architect 
Hardwick.  The  docks  admit  vessels  up  to  250  ft.  in  length  and  24  ft. 
of  draught.   The  warehouses  can  hold  110,000  tons  of  goods. 

St.  Katharine's  Steamboat  Wharf,  adjoining  the  Docks,  is 
mainly  used  as  a  landing-stage  for  steamers  from  the  continent. 

London  Docks  (PI.  R,  50),  lying  to  the  E.  of  St.  Katharine  Docks, 
were  constructed  in  1805  at  a  cost  of  4,000,000i.,  and  cover  an  area 
of  100  acres.  They  have  three  entrances  from  the  Thames,  and  con- 
tain water-room  for  about  400  vessels,  exclusive  of  lighters.  Their 
warehouses  can  store  from  170,000  to  260,000  tons  of  goods 
(according  to  description),  and  their  cellars  121,000  pipes  of  wine. 
At  times  upwards  of  3000  men  are  employed  at  these  docks  in 
one  day.  Every  morning  at  6  o'clock  there  may  be  seen  waiting  at 
the  principal  entrance  a  large  and  motley  crowd  of  labourers,  to 
which  numerous  dusky  visages  and  foreign  costumes  impart  a 
curious  and  picturesque  air.  The  door  in  the  E.  angle  of  the  docks, 
inscribed  ^To  the  Kiln\  leads  to  a  furnace  in  which  adulterated 
tea  and  tobacco,  spurious  gold  and  silver  wares,  and  other  con- 
fiscated goods,  used  to  be  burned.  The  long  chimney  is  jestingly 
called  the  King's  Tobacco  Pipe, 

Nothing  will  convey  to  the  stranger  a  better  idea  of  the  vast 
activity  and  stupendous  wealth  of  London  than  a  visit  to  these 
warehouses,  filled  to  overflowing  with  interminable  stores  of  every 
kind  of  foreign  and  colonial  products ;  to  these  enormous  vaults, 
with  their  apparently  inexhaustible  quantities  of  wine ;  and  to  these 
extensive  quays  and  landing-stages,  cumbered  with  huge  stacks  of 
hides,  heaps  of  bales,  and  long  rows  of  casks.  —  The  public  are 
freely  admitted  to  the  quays,  but  visitors  should  be  on  their  guard 
against  accidents  from  the  working-operations  always  going  on  at 
the  docks.  Access  to  the  warehouses  and  sheds  is  limited  to  persons 


142  9.  THAMES  TUNNEL.        The  East  End, 

having  business  there.  Those  who  wish  to  taste  the  wines  must  pro- 
cure a  tasting-order  from  a  wine-merchant.  Visitors  should  heware 
of  the  insidious  effects  of  'tasting*  in  the  heayy,  vinous  atmosphere. 

St.  George  Street,  to  the  N.  of  the  docks,  was  formerly  the  no- 
torious BatcU/f  Highway,  No.  179  is  the  shop  of  Jamrach,  the  well- 
known  dealer  in  wild  animals.  Swedeuborg  (1688-1772)  was 
originally  buried  in  a  vault  beneath  the  Swedish  Church  in  Prince's 
Square  (PI.  R,  51),  but  his  remains  were  removed  to  Sweden  in  1908. 

To  the  S.  of  the  London  Docks,  and  about  2  M.  below  London 
Rridge,  lies  the  quarter  of  the  Metropolis  called  Wapping,  from 
which  the  Thames  Tunnel  leads  under  the  river  to  Rotherhithe 
on  the  right  bank.  The  tunnel  was  begun  in  1824 ,  on  the  plans 
and  under  the  supervision  of  Sir  Isamhard  Brunei,  and  completed 
in  1843,  after  several  accidents  occasioned  by  the  water  bursting 
in  upon  the  works.  Seven  men  lost  their  lives  during  its  con- 
struction. It  consists  of  two  parallel  arched  passages  of  masonry, 
14  ft.  broad,  16  ft.  high,  and  1200  ft.  long,  and  cost  468,000i. 
The  undertaking  paid  the  Thames  Tunnel  Company  so  badly,  that 
their  receipts  scarcely  defrayed  the  cost  of  repairs.  The  tunnel  was 
purchased  in  1865  by  the  East  London  Railway  Company  for 
200, 000^.,  and  is  now  traversed  daily  by  about  40  trains  (terminas 
at  Liverpool  Street  Station,  p.  26). 

About  Yj  M.  farther  down  the  river  another  tunnel,  known  as 
the  Eotherhitlie  Tunnel  (PI.  R,  54),  was  opened  in  June,  1908. 
This,  which  runs  from  Horseferry  Branch  Road  in  Shadwell  to 
Lower  Road  in  Rotherhithe,  has  a  total  length  of  about  iy4M.,  of 
which  1635  ft.  are  beneath  the  stream,  at  a  depth  of  75  ft.  below 
the  river-surface.  It  consists  of  a  carriage  way,  16  ft.  in  width, 
flanked  on  either  side  by  a  footway  4  ft.  8  in,  in  width.  The  es- 
timated cost  is  l,000,000f. 

At  Rotherhithe  (see  p.  xxx),  to  the  E.  of  this  tunnel,  are  situated 
the  numerous  large  basins  of  the  Surrey  Commercial  Books  (PI.  R, 
53,  etc.),  covering  together  an  area  of  about  350  acres,  and  chiefly 
used  for  timber.  The  Chrand  Surrey  Canal  extends  hence  to  Cam- 
berwell  and  Peckham. 

On  the  N.  bank  of  the  river,  to  the  E.  of  Wapping,  lie  Shadwell 
e^nd  Stepney.  The  old  church  of  St,  Dunstan  (PI.  R,  59)  in  Stepney, 
1/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  river,  contains  the  tomb  of  Sir  Thomas 
Spert  (p.  138)  and  several  quaint  monuments.  In  the  wall  of 
the  W.  porch  is  a  stone  with  an  inscription  (1663)  stating  it  to 
have  been  brought  from  Carthage.  There  is  a  popular  but  erroneous 
belief  that  every  British  subject  born  on  the  high  seas  belongs 
to  Stepney  parish.  At  Limehouse,  opposite  the  Commercial  Docks, 
is  the  entrance  to  the  Begent's  Canal,  which  runs  N.  to  Victoria 
Park,  then  turns  to  the  W.,  traverses  the  N.  part  of  London,  and 
unites  with  the  Paddington  Canal,  which  forms  part  of  a  con- 
tinuous water-route  as  far  as  Liverpool.    Limehouse  Cut  is  another 


The  t^oH  £mi.    9.  BLAGKWALL  TUNNEL.  143 

canal  Joiniag  the  riyer  Lea  (p.  147).  8U  Anne's  Church  (PI.  R,  63), 
with  its  couBpicuous  tower,  waa  built  by  Hawksmoor  (1y30).  Near 
Limehoiue  town-hall  is  a  lodging-house  and  institution  for  sailors, 
opened  in  1903,  known  as  'Jack's  Palace'.  —  The  Weit  India  Docki 
(PI.  R,  62,  etc.),  about  250  acres  in  area,  lie  between  Limehouse 
and  Blackwall,  to  the  N.  of  the  Isle  of  Dogs,  which  is  formed  here 
by  a  sudden  bend  of  the  riyer.  Seyeral  of  the  chief  lines  of  steamers 
load  and  discharge  their  cargoes  in  these  docks.  The  three  prin- 
cipal basins  are  called  the  Import  Dock,  the  Export  Dock,  and  the 
South  Dock.  There  is  a  dry  dock  in  the  JBlaekwaU  Basin,  and  pumps 
haye  been  erected  to  maintain  the  water  in  the  docks  at  or  aboye 
high-water  leyel.  The  warehouses  are  on  a  most  capacious  scale, 
including  refrigerating  chambers  with  accommodation  for  100,000  ear- 
cases  of  sheep.  The  cranes  and  other  machinery  are  adapted  for  hand- 
ling the  largest  logs  of  furniture  wood;  and  the  floating  derrick 
'Elephant'  can  lift  a  weight  of  20  tons.  The  smaller  Eait  India 
Bocks  (PI.  R,  70,  71),  used  by  some  of  the  chief  lines  of  sailing 
ships,  are  at  Blackwall,  a  little  lower  down.  The  Millwall  Doeki, 
100  acres  in  extent  (35  water),  Ve  in  the  Isle  of  Dogs,  to  the  S. 
of  the  West  India  Docks.  At  the  S.  extremity  of  the  Isle  of  Dogs 
is  North  Qreenwieh  Railway  Station,  in  Gubltt  Town,  whence  there 
is  a  railway  steam-ferry  to  Greenwich,  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Thames. 
The  Greenwich  Tunnel  for  pedestrians,  between  the  Isle  of  Dogs 
and  Greenwich,  was  opened  in  1902  at  a  cost  of  120,000(.  By  day 
(5  a.m.  to  9  p.m.)  electric  lifts  conyey  passengers  to  and  from  the 
tunnel-leyel,  about  50  ft.  below  ground;  at  night  staircases  alone  are 
ayailable.  Aboye  Greenwich  lies  Deptford,  with  the  Corporation 
Harket  for  Foreign  CatUt,  occupying  30  acres,  on  the  site  of  the  old 
Admiralty  dockyard. 

The  Blackwall  Tunnel  (PI.  R,  70),  opened  in  1897,  affords  a 
free  passage  for  pedestrians  and  yehicles  beneath  the  Thames,  from 
Blackwall,  6  M.  below  London  Bridge,  to  E.  Greenwich.  The  N. 
approach  begins  at  East  India  Dock  Road  (PI.  R,  71),  the  S.  at  Black* 
wall  Lane  (P1.R,69);  and  there  are  also  staircases  for  pedestrians 
in  vertical  shafts  near  the  riyer  on  each  bank.  The  tunnel  is  lighted 
with  electricity.   The  work  was  designed  by  Sir  A,  R,  Binrde, 

Tbe  total  leng:Ui,  Including  tha  open  approaches  on  both  banks,  is 
2070  yds.,  of  which  1490  yds.  form  the  actual  tunnel,  407  yds.  being  sub- 
aqueous. The  tunnel  is  a  tube,  27  ft.  in  external  diameter,  formed  of 
cast  iron  2  in.  thick,  lined  within  with  cement  concrete,  faced  with  glazed 
tilea.  The  headway  in  the  centre  of  the  roadway  is  17Vs  ft.  At  one  point 
the  top  of  the  tunnel  is  only  6Vi  ft.  below  the  riyer-bed.  The  total  cost 
of  the  work  was  1,266,000^,  of  which  871,000{.  were  spent  on  the  tunnel 
proper. 

Still  lower  down  than  the  East  India  Docks,  between  Bow 
Greek  and  Galllon's  Reach,  lie  the  magnificent  Boyal  Victoria  and 
Albert  Docki,  2^/4  M.  in  length,  lighted  by  electricity  and  proyided 
with  eyery  conyenience  and  accommodation  for  yessels  of  the  largest 
size.   Their  area  is  about  500  acres,  of  which  180  are  water.  Steamen 


144  10.  TOYNBEE  HALL.         The  East  End, 

of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental,  the  British  India,  the  White  Star, 
and  other  important  companies  put  in  at  these  docks.  The  hydraulic 
machinery  includes  a  crane  with  a  lifting  capacity  of  55  tonsj  and 
the  warehouses  have  accommodation  for  350,000  refrigerated  sheep 
and  250,000  tons  of  miscellaneous  goods.  All  the  tohacco  imported 
into  London  is  stored  at  the  Royal  Victoria  Dock.  In  the  Royal 
Albert  Dock  are  two  graving  docks,  502  and  410  ft.  in  length. 

We  may  regain  London  by  train  from  QalUon's  Station  (Hotel,  small 
but  first-class)  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Royal  Albert  Dock  (comp.  p.  140)  j  or 
we  may  take  the  Wooltrich  Free  Ferry  from  North  Woolwich^  immediately 
8.  of  the  dock,  to  Woolwich  (p.  395).  The  ferry  is  used  annually  by 
4,000,000  passengers  and  300,000  vehicles. 

The  large  docks  at  THlburi/  are  described  at  p.  391. 

10.  Bethnal  Green  Maseam.  Victoria  Park. 

Toynhee  Hall.   People's  Palace, 

Adjoining  the  City  proper  on  the  E.  lies  Whitechapbl,  a 
district  chieQy  inhabited  by  artisans,  the  main  thoroughfare  travers- 
ing which  is  Whitechapel  Road^  continued  by  Mile  End  Road, 
leading  to  Bow  and  Stratford  (comp.  p.  145).  To  the  left,  about 
^/4  M.  beyond  Aldgate  Station  (p.  31),  diverges  Commercial  Street, 
in  which  stands  St,  Jude's  Church  (PI.  R,  47 ;  i//),  open  daily, 
10-6.  The  exterior  is  adorned  with  a  fine  mosaic  ('Time,  Death, 
and  Judgment'),  after  O,  F.  Watts. 

Adjoining  the  church  is  Toynhee  Hall,  founded  in  1886  and  named 
after  Arnold  Toynhee^  who  died  in  the  prime  of  youth  (in  1883),  while 
actively  engaged  in  lecturing  on  political  economy  to  the  working-men  of 
London.  The  hall,  which  is  a  *hair  in  the  academic  sense,  contains 
rooms  for  about  20  residents,  chiefly  Oxford  and  Cambridge  graduates 
desirous  of  sharing  the  life  and  experiences  of  the  E.  end  poor  (comp. 
p.  73).  It  also  contains  drawing,  dining,  reading,  and  lecture  rooms,  a 
library,  etc.,  in  which  numerous  social  meetings  are  held  for  the  people 
of  the  neighbourhood.  The  warden  is  Mr.  T.  E.  Harvey,  who  in  1907 
succeeded  the  Rev.  Canon  S.  Barnett,  late  vicar  of  St.  Jude^s.  Those 
interested  in  work  of  this  kind  should  write  to  the  secretary  for  cards 
of  admission.  Toynhee  Hall  is  also  one  of  the  centres  of  the  ^University 
Extension  Lectures^  scheme. 

In  Whitechapel  Road,  a  little  farther  on,  on  the  left,  is  White- 
chapel Free  Library  and  Museum,  built  in  1892,  adjoined  on  the  W. 
by  a  public  Art  Oallery,  opened  in  1901. 

The  gallery  is  the  direct  outcome  of  the  Loan  Exh^ition  of  Pictures, 
established  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Barnett  and  held  for  a  fortnight  or  three  week8 
every  Easter  from  1880  till  1898  in  the  schoolrooms  adjoining  St.  Jade's. 
The  exhibition  generally  contained  some  of  the  best  "works  of  modem 
English  artists,  and  ranked  among  the  artistic  ^events^  of  the  year.  The 
building,  designed  by  J/r.  Harrison  Totonsend,  is  to  ibe  adorned  with  a 
mosaic  frieze  by  Mr.  Walter  Crane^  illustrating  the  ^Sphere  and  Message  of 
Art\  Loan  exhibitions  of  pictures  or  other  works  of  art  are  held  annually 
about  Easter,  in  summer,  and  at  Christmas  (adm.  free,  but  a  small  dona- 
tion expected  from  those  who  can  afford  it). 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  Y2  M.  farther  on,  stands  the 
London  Hospital  (PI.  R,  52}  800  beds;  p.  73),  behind  which  is  the 
church  of  St.  Philip  Stepney,  with  a  fine  Gothic  interior. 


The  East  End.      10.  PEOPLE'S  PALAOE.  145 

In  Coinmereial  Road  (PI.  R,  01),  to  the  8.  of  this  point,  ftre  2>r,  Bar^ 
»ardo't  Hcnut  for  DetMuu  Chikbrm. 

A1>oat  300  yds.  farthfii  on  Camhridge  Road  diyerges  to  the  left, 
leading  to  Bethnal  Oreen  Museum  (see  below). 

To  the  left,  in  Mile  End  Road,  V4  M.  beyond  the  London  Hos- 
pital, is  Trinity  Hospital  or  ColUge  (PI.  B,  52,  56),  a  picturesque 
group  of  almshouses  established  by  the  Trinity  House  (p.  138)  for 
master  mariners  or  mates  and  their  wives  or  widows.  The  chapel  has 
some  interesting  stained  glass.  In  the  quadrangle  is  a  statue  of  Gapt. 
Sandes,  a  former  benefactor.  —  About  ^2  ^*  heyond  Trinity  Hospital 
is  the  People's  Palaee  for  East  London  (PL  R,  60),  a  large  institution 
for  the  ^recreation  and  amusement ,  the  intellectual  and  material 
adyancement  of  the  vast  artisan  population  of  the  East  End\ 

The  form  of  the  People's  Palace  was  suggested  by  the  'Palace  of  De- 
light' desciibed  in  Sir  Walter  Besant's  noTel,  *A11  Sorts  and  Conditions  of 
Men'  (1882)  \  and  the  nnelens  of  the  i(X),0(XM.  required  for  its  erection  was 
famished  by  an  endowment  of  Mr.  J.  E.  Barber  Beaumont  (d.  1841).  This 
was  largely  supplemented  by  voluntary  public  subscriptions,  including 
60,0001.  from  the  Drapers'  Company,  which  finally,  in  1892,  endowed  the 
Palace  with  an  annual  contribution  of  7000/.  for  educational  purposes,  to 
which  8600/..  is  annually  added  from  the  City  Parochial  Charities'  Fund. 
The  large  *Quetns'  Hall,  adorned  with  statues  of  the  queens  of  England, 
etc.,  by  F.  Verheyden,  was  opened  in  1887,  a  Free  Public  Librarp  (now 
closed)  and  a  Smmming  Bath  in  1888,  a  WinUr  Garden  in  1882,  and  large 
Engineering  Workehope  in  189i.  The  Palace  also  comprizes  a  gymnasium, 
reading-rooms,  well-equipped  chemical  and  physical  laboratories,  a  school 
of  art,  and  numerous  class-rooms. 

The  educational  work  of  the  Palace,  carried  on  under  the  name  of 
the  Bast  London  College  (now  a  school  of  the  University  of  London,  p.  841), 
includes  a  Day  College  for  student*  of  either  sex,  with  courses  in  engineering, 
chemistry,  and  art:  and  Evening  Classes  in  scientific,  technical,  and  general 
subjects,  attended  by  about  4000  students  annually.  —  Concerts  and  enter- 
tainments of  various  kinds  are  given  in  the  Queens'  Hall  on  Hon.  and 
Sat.  evenings  and  organ  recitals  on  Sun.  afternoons  and  evenings. 

Mile  End  Road  is  continued  to  the  E.  by  Bow  Road  to  Bow  and  Strat- 
ford (p.  414).  About  74  M.  beyond  the  People's  Palace  Grove  Road  diverges 
to  the  N.,  leading  to  Victoria  Park  (p.  147),  and  Burdett  Road  diverges  to 
the  S.,  leading  to  the  West  India  Docks  (p.  143}  tramway  Ifo.  26,  p.  22). 


The  Bethnal  Green  Mnsenm  (PI.  B,  52),  a  branch  of  South  Ken- 
sington Museum,  opened  in  1872,  occupies  a  red  brick  building  in 
Victoria  Park  Square,  Cambridge  Road,  Bethnal  Green.  It  was 
established  chiefly  for  the  benefit  of  the  Inhabitants  of  the  poorer 
East  End  of  London.  The  chief  permanent  contents  are  collections 
of.  specimens  of  food  and  of  animal  products,  but  loan  collections  of 
yarious  kinds  are  also  always  on  view.  Admission,  see  p.  82  (cata- 
logues on  sale).  The  number  of  yisitors  in  1907  was  413,367. 
There  is  a  plain  refreshment-room  in  the  N.  basement. 

The  Musexun  may  be  conveniently  reached  by  Bow  Bridge  motor- 
omnibus  from  the  Bank,  passing  the  end  of  Cambridge  Road,  where  the 
tramway  (see  below)  may  be  joined^  by  the  Metropolitan  Railway  to  Aid- 
gate,  and  thence  by  a  white  Stamford  Hill  tramway-car  (Ko.  22;  p.  22), 
which  passes  the  Museum*  by  train  from  Liverpool  Street  Station  to 
Cambridge  Heath  (about  every  lOmin.  j  through-booking  from  Metropolitali 

Babdbkxr's  London.     15th  Edit.  10 


146  10.  BETHNAL  GREEN  MUSEUM.     The  E.  End. 

aUtioBB);  or  by  tramway  from  Theobald's  Road  to  Cambridge  Heath  (Ko.  5; 
p.  21).  In  returning  we  may  traverse  Victoria  Park  to  the  (l^min.)  Victoria 
Park  Station  of  the  V,  London  Railway,  whence  there  are  trains  every 
V4  hr.  to  Broad  Street,  City. 

The  space  in  front  of  the  Musenm  is  adorned  with  a  handsome 
majolica  *Fmntain,  hy  Mlnton  (1862). 

Geoukd  Floor.  The  central  area,  which  we  enter  through 
handsome  iron- work  gates  made  in  Prassia,  has  a  mosaic  flooring 
formed  of  refuse  marble  chlppings  and  executed  by  female  conyicts 
in  Woking  Prison.  It  contains  at  present  (1908)  a  miscellaneous 
but  Taluable  Eastern  CoUeetion^  lent  by  Lord  Carzon  of  Kedleston, 
who  was  Governor-General  of  India  in  1898-1905.  In  the  middle  are 
a  marble  statue  of  Diana,  by  Benzoni,  a  copy  in  mafhle  of  Canovc^s 
Venus,  and  busts  of  Garibaldi  and  Cromwell  by  Noble,  At  the 
E.  end  (above)  is  a  loan-collection  from  the  Solomon  Islands. 

Lower  Gallebibs.  The  extensiye  and  well-arranged  Collection 
of  Articles  used  for  Food  occupies  the  N.  lower  gallery.  This  com- 
prises specimens  and  models  of  yarious  kinds  of  edibles,  models 
of  conyicts'  rations,  analyses,  diagrams,  drawings,  and  so  forth. 
Towards  the  E.  end  are  several  cases  of  stuffed  birds;  and  at  the 
end  is  a  collection  of  tobacco-pipes.  —  In  the  S.  lower  gallery 
is  the  collection  of  Animal  Products,  largely  consisting  of  clothing 
materials  (wool,  silk,  leather,  etc.)  at  different  stages  of  their 
manufacture.  Here  also  is  the  Douhleday  Collection  of  Butterfliea 
and  Moths,  shown  on  application  to  an  attendant.  The  collection 
of  British  and  foreign  shoes  in  Cases  111-121  (on  the  N.  side)  may 
be  noticed ;  also  the  fine  elephant  and  other  tusks  on  the  W.  wall. 

Upper  Gallekibs,  well  lighted  from  the  roof.  In  the  N.  gallery, 
near  the  top  of  the  staircase,  are  a  porcelain  statuette  after  Thor- 
valdsen's  Hebe,  and  a  large  model  showing  the  interior  decorations 
of  a  room  in  Damascus.  The  gallery  is  mainly  deyoted  to  a  col- 
lection of  porcelain  and  pottery.  We  hegin  at  the  E.  end.  Cases  37-41. 
Glass;  Cases  42-48.  Modern  Italian,  French,  and  German  pottery ; 
Cases  26-36.  European  porcelain,  representing  most  of  the  Con- 
tinental factories,  lent  by  the  late  Sir  A.  WoUaston  Franks;  Cases 
19-25.  English,  Dresden,  and  Sevres  porcelain,  lent  by  Mrs.  Salting. 
The  remaining  cases  contain  chiefly  Oriental  specimens.  —  On  the 
N.  wall  of  the  W.  half  of  this  gallery  are  a  number  of  paintings  of 
St.  Peter^s,  Rome,  by  Louis  Haghe.  The  other  oil-paintings  on  the 
walls  and  the  water-colours  on  the  screens  belong  mostly  to  the 
Dixon  Collection,  bequeathed  to  the  museum  in  1835.  Among  the 
water-colours  are  specimens  of  Copley  Fielding,  Geo.  Catteimole, 
P.  deWiut(Screen7);  Sam. Prout,  Aaron Penley, Dayid Cox (Scr. 8) ; 
T.  M.  Richardson,  Geo.  Wolfe,  Sidney  Cooper  (Scr.  9);  Sir  John 
Gilbert,  Fripp  (Scr.  10);  Carl  Haag,  Birket  Foster,  etc.  (Scr.  11). 
The  oil-paintings  of  the  collection,  some  of  which  are  hung  in  the 
S.  gallery,  are  less  interesting.  —  The  S.  gallery  is  mainly  deyoted 
to  specimens  of  English  and  Continental  furniture  of  the  16-19th 


Ue  East  End,        10.  VICTORIA  PARK.  147 

centuries.  Near  the  centre  is  the  reprodnction  of  a  Japanese  reception- 
room.  —  In  the  W.  cross-gallery  is  the  Duke  of  Saxe-Coburg^s  Col- 
lection of  presentation  gold  caskets^yases,  gold  and  silver  trowel?,  etc. 
Basement  (poorly  lighted).  At  the  W.  end  of  the  N.  basement 
is  a  collection  of  'New  Art'  furniture,  from  the  Paris  Exhibition  of 
1900.  Farther  on  are  English  and  foreign  costumes,  textile  fabrics, 
etc.  By  the  window  opposite  the  refreshment-counter  are  a  re^* 
presentation  of  the  Judgment  of  Solomon  in  walnut  and  ivory 
(German;  18th cent.)  and  the  model  of  a  Chinese  villa,  sent  by 
the  Emperor  of  China  to  Josephine,  wife  of  Napoleon,  but  captured 
by  the  British.  The  following  cases  contain  modern  bronzes  and 
metal-work.  At  the  end  is  a  collection  illustrating  the  utilization 
of  waste-products.  —  We  now  enter  the  S.  basement.  At  the  E.  end 
are  cases  illustratiog  the  manufacture  ot  glass,  beyond  which  are 
modern  Continental  pottery  and  porcelain,  English  and  French  tiles, 
etc.  Arranged  along  the  wall  on  the  right  is  a  collection  of  Cole* 
optera.  On  the  screens  are  drawings  by  George  Cruikshank,  the 
caricaturist;  proof-engravings  after  Landseer,  Murillo,  etc.,  and  a 
series  of  water-colour  paintings  by  Louis  Francois  Cassas  (1786- 
18*27)  of  scenes  in  Istria  and  Dalmatia. 

The  large  building  in  Green  Street,  to  the  S.  of  the  Museum,  is 
an  Intone  Asylum.  —  From  Old  Ford  Road ,  which  diverges  to  the 
E.  immediately  to  the  N.  of  the  Museum,  Approach  Roadj  in  which 
is  the  City  of  London  Consumption  Hospital,  leads  to  the  N.E.  to 
Victoria  Park.  In  the  grounds  of  the  hospital  is  a  Statue  of  Queen 
Victoria,  presented  by  Sir  M.  M.  Bhownaggree,  M.  P.,  in  1900. 
Victoria  Park  (PI.  B,  55,  58,  59),  covering  217  acres  of  ground, 
laid  out  at  a  cost  of  130,000^. ,  forms  a  place  of  recreation  for 
the  poorer  (£.)  quarters  of  London.  The  eastern  and  larger 
portion  is  unplanted,  and  is  used  for  cricket  and  other  games. 
The  W.  side  is  prettily  laid  out  with  walks,  beds  of  flowers,  and 
two  sheets  of  water,  on  which  swans  may  be  seen  disporting  them- 
selves, and  pleasure-boats  hired.  Near  the  centre  of  the  park  is  the 
Victoria  Fountain,  in  the  form  of  a  Gothic  temple,  erected  by  Baron- 
ess Bardett  Coutts  (comp.  p.  64)  in  1862.  The  park  also  contains 
open-air  gymnasiums.  The  most  characteristic  time  to  see  Victoria 
Park  1b  on  a  Sat.  or  Sun.  evening  or  on  a  public  holiday.  On  the 
N.W.  side  of  the  park,  near  Hackney  Common,  is  the  large  and 
handsome  Hospice  for  the  Descendants  of  French  Protestants.  To  the 
N.E.  of  Victoria  Park  are  Hachney  Marshes  (PI.  B,  61,  62,  65,  66),  a 
large  area  (337  acres)  of  flat  meadow-land,  intersected  by  the  river 
Lea,  and  opened  as  a  public  park  in  1894.  The  White  Hart  Inn  here, 
said  to  date  from  1613,  was  a  resort  of  Dick  Turpin,  the  highwayman. 

Victoria  Park  is  most  easily  reached  by  the  Iforth  London  Railway; 
trains  start  from  Broad  Street  Station^  City  (p.  27),  every  V4  hr.,  and  reach 
Victoria  Park  Station,  at  the  K.E.  extremity  of  the  park,  in  18  min.  (fares 
Bd.,  Ad.,  2yid.;  return-tickets  9d.,  6d.,  id.). 

10* 


148 

11.  Fleet  Street.    Chancery  Lane.    The  Temple. 
Eoyal  Courts  of  Justice. 

St,  Bride's.  Church  of8U  Dunstan  in  the  West.  New  Record  Office, 
Lincoln's  Inn.    Grays  Inn.    Temple  Church.    Temple  Bar. 

Fleet  Street  (PI.  R,  35 ;  //),  one  of  the  busiest  streets  in  London, 
leads  from  Ludgate  Circns  to  the  Strand  and  the  West  End.  It  deriyes 
its  name  from  the  Fleet  Brook,  which,  now  in  the  form  of  a  main 
sewer,  flows  through  Holhom  Valley  (p.  98)  and  under  Farringdon 
Street,  reaching  the  Thames  at  Blackfriars  Bridge.  On  the  E.  side 
of  the  brook  formerly  stood  the  notorious  Fleet  Prison  for  debtors, 
which  was  removed  in  1846.  Prisoners  condemned  by  the  Star  Cham- 
ber were  once  confined  here,  and  within  its  precincts  were  formerly 
celebrated  the  clandestine  *Fleet  marriages'  (see  *The  Fleet:  Its 
Riyer,  Prison,  and  Marriages',  by  John  Ashton;  1888).  Its  site  (in 
Farringdon  Street,  on  the  right)  is  now  occupied  by  the  handsome 
Gothic  Congregational  Memorial  Hall,  opened  in  1874,  at  a  total 
cost  of  93,450^.,  and  so  named  in  memory  of  the  2000  ministers  ejected 
from  the  Church  of  England  by  Charles  II.'s  Act  of  Uniformity,  1662. 

Fleet  Street  itself  contains  few  objects  of  external  interest,  though 
many  literary  associations  cluster  round  its  courts  and  byways.  It  is 
still  celebrated  for  its  newspaper  and  other  printing  and  publishing 
offices.  To  the  left  (entrance  in  St.  Bride's  Passage)  is  St.  Bride's 
(open  daily,  11-4),  a  church  built  by  Wren  in  1680,  with  a  fine 
steeple  223  ft.  high  (1701 ;  restored  in  1902).  In  the  central  aisle  is 
the  grave  of  Richardson,  the  author  of  ^Clarissa  Harlowe'  (d.  1761), 
who  lived  near  by,  in  Salisbury  Square.  The  old  church  of  St. 
Bride,  destroyed  in  the  Fire,  was  the  burial-place  of  Sackville 
(1608),  Lovelace  (1658),  and  the  printer  Wynkin  de  Worde.  In  a 
house  (burned  down  in  1824~)  in  the  adjacent  churchyard  Milton  once 
lived  for  several  years.  In  Bride  Lane  is  the  St.  Bride's  FoundcUion 
Institute,  a  polytechnic  for  the  printers  of  London,  opened  in  1894, 
with  a  fine  technical  library,  a  gymnasium,  a  swimming  bath,  and 
equipments  for  technical  instruction  in  the  art  of  printing.  It  contains 
a  bust  of  Samuel  Richardson  (see  above),  by  0.  Frampton  (1901). 
—  Shoe  Lane,  nearly  opposite  the  church,  leads  to  Holborn ;  while  a 
little  farther  on,  on  the  same  side,  are  Wine  Office  Court,  in  which  is 
still  the  famous  old  hostelry  of  the  Cheshire  Cheese  (p.  14),  where  Dr. 
Johnson  (whose  alleged  chair  is  shown  here)  and  Goldsmith  so  often 
dined,  and  Boswell  so  often  listened  and  took  notes ;  Oough  Square, 
at  the  top  of  the  Court  (to  the  left),  where  Johnson  laboured  over 
his  Dictionary  and  other  works  (house  marked  by  a  tablet) ;  Bolt 
Court,  where  Johnson  spent  the  last  years  of  his  life  (1776-84), 
and  where  Cobbett  afterwards  toiled  and  fumed ;  and  Crane  Court^ 
once  the  home  of  the  Royal  Society,  its  president  being  Sir  Isaac 
Newton,  and  now  the  seat  of  the  Scottish  Corporation,  whose  ancient 
ilall,  burnt  down  in  1877,   is  replaced  by  a  modern  erection  of 


The  City.  11.   ST.  DUNSTAN.  149 

1879-80.  Hie  houses,  No.  6,  Wine  Office  Court,  in  which  Goldsmith 
is  said  to  have  written  the  *  Vicar  of  Wakefield',  and  No.  7,  Johnson's 
Court,  another  residence  of  Pr.  Johnson,  have  been  pulled  down.  —  On 
the  other  side  of  Fleet  Street  is  Bouyerle  Street,  leading  to  what  was 
once  the  lawless  Alsatiaj  immortalised  by  Scott  in  the  'Fortunes  of 
Niger.  In  1883  a  part  of  the  ancient  Carmelite  monastery  of  White- 
friars  was  discoTered  In  this  street.  Including  a  fragment  of  a  stone 
tower  of  great  thickness  and  strength,  while  in  1895  a  small  crypt 
(14th  cent)  was  found  below  a  house  in  Britton's  Court,  opening  off  the 
adjacent  Whitefidars  Street  Fetter  Lane  (see  below)  and  Chancery 
Lane  (p.  160)  farther  to  the  W.,  on  the  N.  side,  also  lead  to  Holbom. 
Izaak  Walton,  the  famous  angler,  once  occupied  a  shop  as  a  hosier 
(1624-43;  see  p.  160)  at  the  comer  of  Chancery  Lane.  Between 
Fetter  Lane  and  Chancery  Lane  rises  the  church  of  St*  Dunitan  in 
the  West,  erected  by  Shaw  in  1832  on  the  site  of  a  more  ancient 
building;  it  has  a  fine  Gothic  tower.  Oyer  the  vestry  door  (on  the  E. 
side  of  the  church)  is  a  statue  of  Queen  Elizabeth  from  the  old  Lud 
Gate,  once  a  city-gate  at  the  foot  of  Ludgate  Hill.  The  old  clock 
of  St.  Dunstan  had  two  wooden  giants  to  strike  the  hours,  which 
still  perform  that  office  at  St  Dunstan's  Villa,  Regent's  Park  (p.  285). 
A  stained-glass  window  at  the  W.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  and  a  tablet 
on  the  E.  wall  commemorate  Izaak  Walton,  who  was  warden  of  the 
church.  Near  St.  Dunstan's  Church,  at  No.  183  Fleet  Street,  was 
Cobbett's  book-shop  and  publishing  office,  where  he  issued  his 
'Political  Register' ;  and  on  the  opposite  side,  no'^  No.  56,  was  the 
house  of  William  Hone,  the  free-thinking  publisher  of  the  'Eyery- 
day  Book'.  No.  184,  Fleet  Street  (rebuilt  in  1892)  was  once  oc- 
cupied by  Drayton,  the  poet  (d.  1631).  Opposite  Fetter  Lane  is 
Mitre  Court,  with  the  tavern  once  frequented  by  Johnson,  Gold- 
smith, and  Boswell.  —  No.  17  Fleet  St ,  opposite  Chancery  Lane 
and  adjoining  Inner  Temple  Lane  (p.  154),  an  interesting  example 
of  a  17th  cent,  timbered  house,  was  restored  in  1906  by  the  County 
Council,  the  facade  of  161 1  being  as  far  as  possible  faithfully  restored . 
On  the  first  floor  is  Prince  Henry's  Room  (adm.  free  daily,  10-2), 
believed  to  have  been  the  council-chamber  of  the  Duchy  of  Corn- 
wall under  Henry,  eldest  son  of  James  I.  It  possesses  one  of  the 
best  extant  Jacobean  enriched  plaster-ceilings,  with  the  prince's 
crest  In  the  centre.  On  the  W.  wall  is  some  of  the  original  pan- 
elling, the  remainder  of  the  woodwork  being  Georgian.  The  stained 
glass  is  modem.    The  staircase  dates  from  the  18th  century. 


Fbttbb  Lane  (PI.  R,  35,  36 ;  JT)  is  said  to  derive  its  name  from 
the  'faitouTs'  or  beggars  that  once  infested  it.  To  the  left,  a  few 
yards  from  Fleet  Street,  is  an  entrance  to  Clifford'a  Inn  (p.  151), 
once  the  residence  of  Robert  Paltoek  (1697-1767),  author  of  that 
strange  and  fascinating  book  *TheLife  and  Adventures  of  Peter  Wil- 
kins\  Farther  on  is  the  New  Record  Office  (p.  150),  the  main  en- 


150  11.    CHANCERY  LANE.  The  City. 

trance  of  whicli  is  in  Chancery  Lane.  Tlie  Moravian  Chapel,  opposite 
the  Record  Office,  escaped  the  Great  Fire  in  1666.  In  Fleur-de-Lls 
Court,  off  Fetter  Lane,  is  Newton  Hall,  nntil  1902  the  meeting-place 
of  the  Positivists  under  Mr,  Frederic  Harrison.  In  Bream's  Build- 
ings, -which  runs  from  Fetter  Lane  to  Chancery  Lane,  is  the  Birkbeek 
Literary  and  Scientific  Institute  rp.xxxlti),with  about  13,000  students. 

Chancery  Lane  (PI.  R,  32,  ol,  35;  //}  leads  through  the  quarter 
chiefly  occupied  by  barristers  and  solicitors.  Izaak  Walton  occupied 
a  shop  on  the  right  near  Crown  Court,  after  removing  from  Fleet 
Street  (see  p.  149).  On  the  right  is  Old  Serjeants'  Inn,  opening  into 
Clifford's  Jnn  (p.  151).  Farther  up,  on  the  same  side,  is  the  New 
Becord  Office  (PL  R,  35 ;  IT),  for  the  custody  of  legal  records  and 
state-papers,  a  huge  fire-proof  edifice  in  the  Tudor  style,  the  E. 
part  of  which  was  erected  in  1851-66  by  Sir  J.  Pennethome,  while 
the  W.  part,  facing  Chancery  Lane,  was  added  by  Mr.  John  Taylor 
in  1891-96.  The  latter  coTcrs  what  used  to  be  Rolls  Yard;  and  the 
former  Court  of  the  Master  of  the  Rolls  and  also  the  Rolls  Chapel 
have  been  taken  down.  On  the  inner  side  of  the  main  archway  from 
Chancery  Lane  are  statues  of  Henry  IIL,  who  in  12'23  erected  the 
*Domus  Conversorum',  or  liouse  for  converted  Jews,  on  the  site  after- 
wards occupied  by  the  Rolls  Chapel;  and  of  Edward  III.,  who  in 
1377  assigned  the  house  and  chapel  to  the  Master  of  the  Rolls.  The 
chapel  was  afterwards  much  altered ;  a  fragment  of  the  old  chancel- 
arch  has  been  re-erected  against  the  S.E.  wall  of  the  new  building. 

The  interior  of  tbe  Becord  Office  is  arranged  so  as  to  be  as  nearly 
fire-proof  as  possible.  Tbe  rooms  bave  no  communication  with  each  other 
but  open  on  narrow  corridors  paved  with  brick.  Each  room  or  compart- 
ment is  about  26  ft.  long,  17  ft.  broad,  and  i5*/4  ft.  high.  Tbe  floor,  door- 
posts, window-frames,  and  ceilings  are  of  iron,  and  tbe  shelves  of  slate. 
Since  tbe  completion  of  tbe  structure  tbe  state  papers,  formerly  kept  in 
tbe  Tower,  tbe  Chapter  House  of  Westminster  Abbey,  the  Bolls  Chapel, 
at  Carlton  Bide,  and  in  tbe  State  Paper  Office  in  St.  Jameses  Park,  have 
been  deposited  here.  The  business-hours  are  from  10  a.m.  to  4.80  p.m. 
(on  Sat.  2  p.m.),  during  which  the  Search  Booms  are  open  to  the  public. 
Documents  down  to  1760  may  be  inspected  gratis ;  tbe  charge  for  copying 
is  6d.-l<.  (according  to  date)  per  folio  of  72  words,  the  minimum  charge 
being  2$. 

Tbe  Becord  Office  Museum  (open  free,  2-4  daily,  except  Sat.  &  Sun.) 
occupies  a  room  in  tbe  new  building ;  visitors  pass  through  the  main  archway 
from  Chancery  Lane  and  enter  tbe  principal  entrance  of  the  E.  wing.  On 
tbe  left  wall  are  three  monuments  from  tbe  Bolls  Chapel;  that  of  Doctor 
John  Younff,  Master  of  the  Bolls  under  Henry  VUI.,  is  attributed  to  Tor- 
rigiano  (1516).  The  glass-cases  contain  a  remarkable  series  of  interesting 
and  valuable  documents  and  records.  On  the  central  table  is  preserved  the 
*Lomesday  Book,  in  two  parchment  volumes  of  different  sizes,  contain- 
ing the  results  of  a  statistical  survey  of  England  made  in  1086  by  order 
of  William  the  Conqueror.  Casd  F.  Treaty  of  peace  between  Henry  VIII. 
and  Francis  I.,  with  a  gold  seal.  Caae  G.  Plan  of  tbe  Kirk  o'  Field,  il- 
lustrating tbe  murder  of  Lord  Darnley.  C!ase  H.  Bag  of  foiled  groats  of 
Henry  V.  or  VI.  i  specimens  of  tbe  wooden  tallies,  used  in  keeping  public 
accounts.  Case  I.  Letters  of  Nelson ;  log  of  tbe  *Victory'  recording  the 
battle  of  Trafalgar^  autograph  of  Wellington.  Case  H.  Petition  to  George  III. 
from  Congress  (1775);  letter  from  Washington  to  George  III.  (1795).  In 
frame  N.  is  a  charter  granted  by  Alphonso  of  Castile  on  the  marriage  of 
P4ward  It  with  Elei^nor  of  Castile, 


The  City.  11.   LINCOLN  S  INN.  151 

Opposite  the  Record  Office  are  tbe  premises  of  the  Incorporated 
Law  Society,  built  in  1857,  with  a  new  hall  added  in  1903.  Near 
the  Holhom  end  of  Chancery  Lane,  on  the  right,  are  Southampton 
Buildings,  in  which  is  situated  the  Qovernment  Patent  Offlce 
(PI.  B,  35, 36;  /i),  recently  rebuilt  and  extended  into  Staple  Inn. 
Here  all  applications  for  the  protection  of  inyentions  and  designs  are 
dealt  with,  as  well  as  most  of  those  for  the  protection  of  trade- 
marks. In  1905  there  were  nearly  28,000  applications  for  patents 
(586  by  women),  oyer  10,000  for  designs,  and  nearly  24,000  for 
trade-marks.  Adjacent,  in  Quality  Court,  is  the  'Sale  Branch',  where 
spedflcations  of  English  patents  from  the  17th  cent,  onwards  may 
be  purchased.   For  the  Patent  Office  Ubrary,  see  p.  65. 

To  the  barristers  belong  the  four  great  Inns  of  Coukt,  vis.  the 
TempU  (Inner  and  Middle)  on  the  S.  of  Fleet  Street  (see  p.  152),  ^ 
Lineoln'i  Inn  In  Chancery  Lane,  and  Qraye  Inn  in  Holbom.  These 
Inns  are  societies  for  the  study  of  law,  and  possess  by  custom  the 
exclusive  priTilege  of  calling  to  the  Bar.  Each  is  gOTorned  by  its 
older  members,  who  are  termed  Benchers, 

Formevly  subsidiary  to  the  four  Inns  of  Gonrt  were  the  nine  Inn*  of 
Chmuory:  viz.,  Clifard's  Inn  (p.  160),  CUmenC*  Inn  (p.  157),  and  Lffon^s  Inn 
(demolished),  attached  to  the  Inner  Temple ;  Ifew  Inn  and  Strand  Inn  (both 
demolished),  to  the  Middle  Temple  \  FumivaFB  Inn  and  TAortes'  Inn  (both 
demolished),  to  Mncoln's  Inn;  SUg^U  Inn  and  Beamardra  Inn  (p.  99),  to 
Oray's  Inn.  The  sorriyors  of  these  hare  now,  however,  little  beyond  local 
eonneetion  with  the  Inns  of  Court,  and  are  let  out  in  ehambers  to  soli- 
citors, barristers,  and  the  general  public.  —  Bsrjeants"  Inn^  Ohancery  Lane, 
was  originaUy  set  apart  for  the  use  of  the  Serjeants  at-law ,  whose  name 
is  derlyed  from  the  ^fratres  servientes'  of  the  old  Knights  Templar;  but 
the  building  is  now  used  for  other  purposes.  See  *The  Inns  of  Court  and 
Chancery',  by  W.  J.  Loftie. 

Lincoln's  Inn  CPl.  R,  31, 32;  /i),  the  third  of  the  Inns  of  Court 
in  importance,  is  situated  without  the  City,  on  a  site  once  occupied 
by  the  mansion  of  the  Earl  of  Lincoln  and  other  houses.  The  Oate- 
house  (restored  in  1899)  in  Chancery  Lane  was  built  in  1518  by  Sir 
Thomas  Lovell,  whose  coat-of-arms  It  bears.  Ben  Jonson  is  said  to 
have  been  employed  as  a  bricklayer  in  constructing  the  adjacent 
wall  about  a  century  later  (1617) ;  but  in  1617  Jonson  was  44  years 
old  and  had  written  some  of  his  best  plays.  The  Chapel  was  erected 
by  Inigo  Jones  in  1621-23,  and  contains  good  wood-earring  and 
stained  glass.  Like  the  Round  Church  of  the  Temple,  it  wIbis  once 
used  as  a  consultation-room  by  the  barristers  and  their  clients. 

The  New  Hall^  the  handsome  dining-hall  of  Lincoln's  Inn,  In 
the  Tudor  style ,  was  completed  in  1845  under  the  supervision  of 
ilfr.  Hardwiek,  It  contains  a  large  fresco  of  the  School  of  Legislation, 
by  O,  F.  WaHs  (1860),  and  a  statue  of  Lord  Eldon,  by  Westmacott, 
The  Library,  founded  in  1497,  is  the  oldest  in  London,  and  contains 
25,000  YOls.  and  numerous  raluable  MSS.;  most  of  the  latter  were 
bequeathed  by  Sir  Matthew  Hale.  Among  its  most  prized  contents 
is  the  fourth  yolnme  of  Prynne's  Records,  for  which  the  society 
gaye  335^.   Xtneo^'i  Inn  Fields,  see  p.  207. 


152  11.   THE  TEMPLE.  The  City. 

Sir  Thomas  More,  Shaftesbury,  Selden,  Oliver  Cromwell,  Sir  Matthew 
Hale,  William  Pitt,  Lord  Erskine,  Lord  Mansfield,  Lord  Brougham,  Canning, 
Benjamin  Disraeli,  and  W.  £.  Gladstone  were  once  members  of  Lincoln^s 
Inn.  Thurloe,  Cromweirs  Secretary  of  State,  had  chamberi  at  No.  24  Old 
Square  (to  the  left,  on  the  groundtloor)  in  1645-59,  and  the  Thurloe  papers 
were  afterwards  discovered  here  in  the  false  ceiling  (commemorative  tablet 
on  the  wall  towards  Chancery  Lane)-  Among  the  preachers  of  Lincoln^s  Inn 
were  Usher,  Tillotson,  Warburton,  Heber,  and  Frederick  Denison  Maurice. 

Chancery  Lane  ends  at  Holborn,  at  a  point  a  little  to  the  N.  of 
which  is  Gray's  Inn  (PI.  R,  32  j  11^,  which  formerly  paid  a  ground- 
rent  to  the  Lords  Gray  of  Wilton  and  has  existed  as  a  school  of  law- 
since  1371.  The  Elizabethan  Hall,  built  about  1560,  contains  fine 
wood-earring.  Shakspeare's  *Comedy  of  Errors'  was  acted  here  in 
1694.  The  Archbishops'  Window  in  the  chapel,  completed  in  1899, 
shows  a  group  of  Becket,  Whitgift,  Juxon,  Laud,  and  Wake.  During 
the  17th  cent,  the  garden,  in  which  a  number  of  trees  were  planted 
by  Francis  Bacon,  was  a  fashionable  promenade ;  hut  it  is  not  now 
open  to  the  puhlic.  The  name  of  Lord  Chancellor  Bacon  is  the 
most  eminent  among  those  of  former  members  of  Gray's  Inn;  others 
are  Sir  William  Gascoigne ,  who  committed  the  Prince  of  Wales 
(Henry  V.)  to  prison,  Thomas  Cromwell,  Lord  Burleigh,  Laud,  and 
Sir  Samuel  Romilly.  Comp.* Chronicles  of  an  Old  Inn',  by  AndrieHope. 

Gbat^s  Inn  Boad  (PI.  B,  B,  82),  an  important  but  unattractive  thorough- 
fare to  the  E.  of  Gray's  Inn,  runs  to  the  "N.  to  Euston  Boad  (King's  Cross 
Station,  p.  26),  passinj;  the  former  Holhorn  Town  HaU  and  the  Royal  Free 
BotpitaL  Opposite  Holbom  Town  Hall  diverges  Theobald's  Boad,  at  No.  22 
in  which  (then  No.  6,  King's  Boad)  Lord  Beaconsfield  wa)  born  in  1804. 
Elm  Street  leads  to  the  E.  from  Gray's  Inn  Boad  to  the  Parcel  Poit  Office 
(PI.  B,  82,  86),  in  Mount  Pleasant,  on  the  site  of  the  old  Coldbath  House  of 
Correction.  The  sorting  office  here,  completed  in  1900,  has  a  floor-space  of 
between  6  and  7  acres;  and  the  sorting-tables  have  an  aggregate  length  of 
IV4  M.  Nearly  4000  persons  are  enciployed,  handling  about  12  millioa  postal 
packets  per  week.  Every  day  1790  mail-vans  call  here  and  200  tons  of 
mail  matter  pass  through  the  office.    Comp.  p.  95. 


The  Temple  (PI.  R,  35;  /i),  on  the  S.  side  of  Fleet  Street, 
between  the  old  cities  of  London  and  Westminster,  was  formerly 
a  lodge  of  the  Knights  Templar,  —  a  religious  and  military  order 
founded  at  Jerusalem,  in  the  12th  century,  under  Baldwin,  King  of 
Jerusalem,  to  protect  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  pilgrims  resorting 
thither,  and  called  Templars  from  their  original  designation  as 
*poor  soldiers  of  the  Temple  of  Solomon'.  It  became  crown-property 
on  the  dissolution  of  the  order  in  1313,  and  was  presented  by 
Edward  II.  to  Aymer  de  Valence,  Earl  of  Pembroke.  After  Pem- 
broke's death  the  Temple  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Knights 
of  St.  John,  who,  in  1346,  leased  it  to  the  students  of  common  law. 
From  that  time  to  the  present  day  the  building,  or  rather  group  of 
buildings,  which  extends  down  to  the  Thames,  has  continued  to  be 
a  school  of  law.  The  Temple  property  passed  into  the  hands  of  the 
Grown  on  the  dissolution  of  the  religious  houses  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  Ylll.  (1641)  j  but  in  1609  it  was  granted  by  James  I.  to  the 


The  City.  11.  TEMPLE  CHURCH.  153 

beneliers  of  tlie  Jnntr  and  Middle  Temple  for  the  enteTtaining  and 
edacating  of  students  and  professors  of  the  law,  subject  to  a  rent- 
charge  of  iOl.  from  each  society  which  was  redeemed  In  1676. 

The  Inner  and  Middle  Temples  are  now  both  situated  within  the 
precincts  of  the  City.  The  former  is  so  called  as  being  nearest  the 
city  proper ;  the  Middle  Temple  deriyes  its  name  from  its  situation 
between  the  Inner  and  the  Outer  Temple,  the  latter  of  which  was 
afterwards  replaced  by  Exeter  House  (and  later  by  Essex  House 
and  Essex  Street).  The  name  Outer  Temple  \a  now  appropriated 
by  a  handsome  block  of  offices  and  chambers  directly  opposite  the 
new  Law  Courts  (p.  155).  The  Inner  and  the  Middle  Temple  possess 
in  common  the  ^Temple  Church,  or  St.  Mary's  Church,  situated 
mainly  within  the  bounds  of  the  Inner  Temple.  Adm.,  see  p.  82; 
^sitors  knock  at  the  door. 

This  church  is  diTided  into  two  sections,  the  Round  Church  and 
the  Choir.  -.  The  Round  Church,  about  58  ft.  in  diameter,  a  Norman 
edifice  with  a  tendency  to  the  transition  style,  and  admirably  en- 
riched, was  completed  in  1185.  The  choir,  in  the  Early  English 
style,  was  added  in  1240.  During  the  Protectorate  the  ceiling 
paln^ngs  were  whitewashed ;  and  the  old  church  afterwards  became 
so  dilapidated,  that  it  was  necessary  in  1840-42  to  subject  it  to  a 
thorough  restoration,  a  work  which  cost  no  less  than  70,000i.  The 
lawyers  used  formerly  to  receiye  their  clients  in  the  Round  Church, 
each  occupying  his  particular  post  like  merchants  *on  change'.  The 
Incumbent  of  the  Temple  Church  is  called  the  Master  of  the 
Temple.    The  present  Master  is  the  Rev.  Dr.  Woods. 

A  handsome  Norman  archway  leads  into  the  interior,  which  is 
a  few  steps  below  the  leyel  of  the  pavement.  The  choir,  at  the  end 
of  which  are  the  altar  and  stalls  (during  divine  service  open  to 
members  of  the  Temple  societies  and  theif  friends  only),  and 
the  Round  Church  (to  which  the  public  is  admitted)  are  both 
borne  by  clustered  pillars  in  marble.  The  ceiling  is  a  fine  example 
of  Gothic  decorative  painting,  carefully  restored  on  the  original 
lines.  The  pavement  consists  of  tiles,  in  which  the  lamb  with  the 
flag  (the  Agnus  Dei')y  the  heraldic  emblem  of  the  Templars,  and 
the  Pegasus,  the  badges  of  the  Middle  and  Inner  Temple  respectively, 
continually  recur.  Most  of  the  stained-glass  windows  are  modern. 
In  the  Round  Church  are  nine  *  Monuments  of  Templars  of  the  12th 
and  13th  centuries,  consisting  of  recumbent  figures  of  dark  marble 
in  full  armour.  One  of  the  four  on  the  S.  side,  under  whose  pillow 
is  a  slab  with  foliage  in  relief,  is  said  to  be  that  of  William  Marshal, 
Earl  of  Pembroke  (d.  1219),  brother-in-law  of  King  John,  who  filled 
the  office  of  Regent  during  the  minority  of  Henry  III.  The  monu- 
ments are  beautifully  executed,  but  owe  their  fresh  appearance  to 
a  ^restoration'  by  Richardson  in  1842.  At  the  S.W.  corner  of  the 
choir  are  a  black  marble  slab  in  memory  of  John  Selden  (d.  1654), 
'the  great  dictator  of  learning  to  the  English  nation',  and  a  bust  of 


154  11.  TKMPLE  CHURCH.  The  City. 

Richard  Hooker  (d.  1600),  formerly  Master.  In  a  recess  in  the  S. 
wall  of  the  choir,  near  the  E.  end,  is  a  line  recumhent  effigy  of  a 
mitred  ecclesiastic,  discoyered  during  the  restoration  in  1840.  The 
triforinm,  which  encircles  the  Ronnd  Chnrch,  contains  some  unin- 
teresting old  monuments ,  but  is  not  now  open  to  the  public.  On 
the  stair  leading  to  it  is  a  small  penitential  cell,  prisoners  in  which 
could  hear  the  serylce  in  the  church  by  means  of  slits  in  the  wall. 

Oliver  Goldsmith  (d.  1774),  author  of  the  *Vioar  of  Wakefield', 
is  buried  in  the  Churchyard  to  the  N.  of  the  choir.  —  See  'The 
Temple  Church  and  Chapel  of  St.  Ann',  by  H,  T.  BayUa,  K,  C, 

The  well-kept  Temple  Gardens^  once  immediately  adjacent  to 
the  Thames,  but  now  separated  from  it  by  the  Victoria  Embank- 
ment, are  open  to  the  public  on  days  and  hours  determined  from 
time  to  time  by  the  Benchers  (ascertainable  by  enquiry  at  the  gates 
or  lodges).  Here,  according  to  Shakspeare,  were  plucked  the  vohiie 
and  red  roses  which  were  assumed  as  the  badges  of  the  houses  of 
York  and  Lancaster,  in  the  long  and  bloody  civil  contest,  known  as 
the  *Wars  of  the  Roses'  ('Henry  VI.\  Part  I;  Act  ii.  Se,  4),  About 
the  end  of  May  these  gardens  are  used  for  the  spring  Flower  Show  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  (p.  251).  The  figure  of  a  Moor  (Italian ; 
17th  or  18th  cent.),  bearing  a  sun-dial,  was  brought  from  the  garden 
of  Clement's  Inn. 

The  fine  Gothic  ♦Hall  of  the  Middle  Temple,  built  in  1572,  and 
used  as  a  dining-room,  is  notable  for  its  handsome  open-work  ceiling 
in  old  oak.  The  fine  oaken  screen  was  erected  in  1575.  The 
walls  are  embellished  with  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  Knights 
Templar,  and  five  large  full-length  portraits  of  princes,  including 
an  equestrian  portrait  of  Charles  I.  The  large  windows  contain 
the  arms  of  membexs  of  the  Temple  who  have  sat  in  the  House 
of  Peers.  Shakspeare's  'Twelfth  Night'  was  acted  in  this  hall  during 
the  dramatist's  lifetime  (Feb.  2nd,  1601-2).  Queen  Elizabeth  dined 
here ;  and  the  table  is  said  to  be  that  on  which  she  signed  the  death- 
warrant  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots.  —  The  Library  (40,000  vols.)  is 
preserved  in  a  modern  Gothic  building  on  the  side  next  the  Thames, 
which  contains  a  hall  85  ft.  long  and  62  ft.  high.  —  The  new  Inner 
Temple  Hall,  opened  in  1870,  is  a  handsome  structure,  also  pos- 
sessing a  fine  open-work  roof.  It  is  adorned  with  statues  of  Temp- 
lars and  Hospitallers  by  Armstead.  The  Library  (50,000  vols.)  oc- 
cupies a  commodious  suite  of  rooms  overlooking  the  terrace  so 
lovingly  described  by  Charles  Lamb. 

Oliver  Ooldsmith  lived  and  died  on  the  second  floor  of  2  Brick  Court, 
Middle  Temple  Lane  (medallion).  Mackworth  Praed  and  Thackeray  also 
bad  chambers  in  this  house;  and  Blackstone,  the  famous  commentator  on 
the  law  of  England,  lived  in  the  rooms  below  GoIdsmith''s.  Dr.  Johnson 
occupied  apartments  in  Inner  Temple  Lane,  in  a  house  now  taken  down. 
Charles  Lamb  was  born  in  Crown  Office  Bow  (within  the  Temple)  in  1775 ; 
from  1801  to  1809  he  lived  at  16  Mitre  Court  Buildings  and  from  1809  to  1817 
at  i  Inner  Temple  Lane,  but  both  houses  have  been  torn  down.  In  18i8-50 
Thackeray  occupied  chambers  in  10  Crown  Office  Row. 


The  City.  11.   TEMPLE  BAR.  155 

Tbe  list  of  eminent  members  of  the  Inner  Temple  includes  the  names 
of  Littleton,  Coke,  Selden,  Francis  Beanmont,  Lord  Mansfield,  Hampden, 
Thnrlow,  and  William  Cowper.  On  that  of  the  Middle  Temple  are  the 
names  of  Baleigh,  Pym,  Clarendon,  Ireton,  Wyeherley,  Shadwell,  Congreve, 
Burke,  Sheridan,  Blackstone,  and  Moore. 

At  tbe  W.  end  of  Fleet  Street  rises  tbe  Temple  Bar  Memorial^ 
witb  stotues  of  Queen  Yietoria  and  Edward  YII.  (as  Prince  of  Wales) 
by  Boebm  at  tbe  sides  and  surmounted  by  tbe  Oity  Griffln,  by  Bircb. 
Tbis  was  erected  in  1880  to  mark  tbe  site  of  Temple  Bar,  a  gate- 
way formerly  adjoining  tbe  Temple,  between  Fleet  Street  and  tbe 
Strand,  built  by  Wren  in  1670.  Its  W.  side  was  adorned  witb  statues 
of  Obarles  I.  and  Obarles  II.,  its  E.  side  witb  statues  of  Anne  of 
Denmark  and  James  I.  Tbe  beads  of  criminals  used  to  be  barbarously 
exbibited  on  iron  spikes  on  tbe  top  of  tbe  gate.  Wben  tbe  reigning 
sovereign  yisits  tbe  City  on  state  occasions,  be  is  wont,  in  ac- 
cordance witb  an  ancient  custom,  to  obtain  permission  from  tbe 
Lord  Mayor  to  pass  Temple  Bar.  Tbe  beavy  wooden  gates  were  after- 
wards remOTed  to  relieve  tbe  Bar  of  tbeir  weigbt,  as  it  bad  sbown 
signs  of  weakness ;  and  tbe  wbole  erection  was  Anally  demolisbed 
early  in  1878,  to  permit  of  tbe  widening  of  tbe  street  and  to  facilitate 
tbe  enormous  traffic.  In  1888  tbe  gate  was  re-erected  near  one  of 
tbe  entrances  of  Tbeobalds  Park,  Waltbam  Oross  (see  p.  416). 

A^oining  the  site  of  Temple  Bar,  on  the  8.  side  of  Fleet  Street,  stands 
the  large  new  building  of  Ohild^a  Bank,  which  was  in  high  repute  in  the 
time  of  the  Stuarts,  and  is  the  oldest  banking-house  in  London  but  one. 
Dryden,  Pepys,  Nell  Owynne,  and  Prince  Bupert  were  early  customers  of 
this  bank.  The  Child  family  is  still  connected  with  the  business.  Next 
door  to  this  house  was  the  *Deyil's  Tavern",  noted  as  the  home  of  the 
Apollo  Club,  of  which  Ben  Jonson,  Randolph,  and  Dr.  Kenrick  were 
frequenters.  The  tavern  was  in  time  absorbed  by  Child ^s  Bank,  which 
also  used  the  room  over  the  main  arch  of  Temple  Bar  as  a  storehouse. 

Immediately  to  tbe  W.  of  Temple  Bar,  on  tbe  N.  side  of  tbe 
Strand  (p.  157),  rise  the  Soyal  Courts  of  Justice,  opened  in  1882, 
a  vast  and  magnificent  Gothic  pile,  forming  a  wbole  block  of  build- 
ings, witb  a  frontage  towards  tbe  Strand  of  about  500  ft.  Tbe 
arcbitect  was  O,  E,  Street,  wbo  unfortunately  died  sbortly  before 
tbe  completion  of  bis  great  work;  a  statue  of  Mm,  by  Armstead,  has 
been  placed  on  tbe  E.  side  of  tbe  central  ball.  Tbe  building  cost 
about  750,0002.  and  tbe  site  about  2,450,0002.  Tbe  principal  internal 
feature  is  tbe  large  central  ball,  138  ft.  long,  48  ft.  wide,  and  80  ft. 
bigb,  witb  a  fine  mosaic  flooring  designed  by  Street.  Tbe  build- 
ing contains  in  all  19  court -rooms  and  about  1100  apartments  of 
all  kinds.  Wben  tbe  courts  are  sitting,  tbe  general  public  are  ad- 
mitted to  tbe  galleries  only,  tbe  central  ball  and  tbe  court-rooms 
being  reserved  for  members  of  tbe  Bar  and  persons  connected  witb 
tbe  cases.  During  tbe  vacation  tbe  central  ball  is  open  to  tbe  public 
from  11  to  3,  and  tickets  of  admission  to  tbe  courts  may  be  obtained 
gratis  at  tbe  superintendent's  office. 

For  about  a  century  and  a  half  after  tbe  Norman  Conquest  the 
royal  court  of  justice,  which  included  the  Exchequer  and  the  *Curia  Regis', 
followed  the  King  from  place  to  place;  but  one  of  the  articles  of  Hagna 


156  11.  COURTS  OF  JUSTTCK.  The  City. 

Gharta  provided  that  the  Common  Pleas,  or  that  branch  of  the  court  in 
which  disputes  between  subjects  were  settled,  should  be  fixed  at  West- 
minster. The  accession  of  Edward  I.  found  the  Courts  of  King's  Bench, 
Common  Bench,  and  Exchequer  all  sitting  in  Westminster  Hall.  The  Court 
of  Chancery  sat  regularly  in  Westminster  Hall  as  early  as  the  reign  of 
Edward  II.,  but  was  afterwards  removed  to  Lincoln's  Inn.  This  separation 
of  common  law  and  equity  proved  very  inconvenient  to  the  barristers 
and  attorneys  and  others,  and  the  Westminster  courts  became  much  too 
small  for  the  business  carried  on  in  them.  It  was  accordingly  resolved 
to  build  a  large  new  palace  of  justice  to  receive  all  the  superior  courts, 
and  the  site  of  the  present  Law  Courts  was  fixed  upon  in  1867^  The 
work  of  building  began  in  1874.  The  Judicature  Act  of  1873  provided 
that  the  same  rule  of  law  should  be  enforced  in  the  historically  independent 
Courts  of  Common  Law  and  Equity,  and  united  all  the  superior  tribunals 
of  the  country  into  a  Supreme  Court  of  Judicature,  subdivided  into  a 
court  of  original  jurisdiction  (the  High  Court  of  Justice,  with  the  two 
divisions  of  ^Queen's  Bench'  and  ^Chancery')  and  a  court  of  appellate  juris- 
diction (the  Court  of  Appeal).  The  House  of  Lords  still  remains  the  ulti* 
mate  Court  of  Appeal,  exercising  its  jurisdiction  through  its  legal  members 
—  the  Lord  Chancellor,  peers  who  have  held  the  position  of  Lord  Chan- 
cellor, and  certain  law-lords  holding  life-peerages. 


II.  THE  WEST  END. 


12.  Strand.  Somerset  House.  Waterloo  Bridge. 

St.  CUment  Danes.  The  Roman  Bath.  Kin/s  CoUtge.  8t,  Mary  U 
Strand,  Savoy  Chapel,  Savoy  Falaet,  Society  of  Arts,  Eleanor^  $  Cross, 

Tlie  Strand  (PL  R,  26,  31,  and  11;  so  named  fiom  its  skirting 
the  bank  of  the  river,  vhich  is  now  concealed  by  the  bnildings],  a 
broad  street  containing  many  handsome  shops,  is  the  great  artery 
of  traffic  between  the  City  and  the  West  £ud,  and  one  of  the  busiest 
and  most  important  thoroughfares  in  London.  It  was  nnpaved 
down  to  1532,  and  about  this  time  it  was  described  as  *full  of  pits 
and  •  sloughs,  Tory  perilous  and  noisome'.  At  this  period  many  of 
the  mansions  of  the  nobility  and  hierarchy  stood  here,  with  gardens 
stretching  down  to  the  Thames  (comp.  p.  xxv).  The  names  of  several 
streets  and  houses  still  recall  these  days  of  bygone  magnificence,  but 
the  palaces  themselves  have  long  since  disappeared  or  been  converted 
to  more  plebeian  uses.  Ivy  Bridge  Lane  andStrand  Bridge  Lane  com- 
memorate the  site  of  bridges  over  two  water-courses  that  flowed  into 
the  Thames  here,  and  there  was  a  third  bridge  farther  to  theE.  The 
Strand  contains  a  great  many  newspaper-offices  and  theatres. 

Just  beyond  the  site  of  Temple  Bar  (p.  155),  to  which  its  name 
will  doubtless  long  attach,  on  the  (N.)  right,  rise  the  Law  Courts 
(p.  155).  The  church  of  St.  Clement  Danes*  in  the  centre  of  the 
Strand,  was  erected  in  1681  from  designs  by  Wren  and  restored 
in  1898.  The  tower,  115  ft.  in  height,  was  added  by  Oibbs  in 
1719.  Dr.  Johnson  used  to  worship  in  this  church,  a  fact  recorded 
by  a  tablet  on  the  back  of  the  pew.  The  church  is  said  to  bear 
its  name  from  being  the  burial-place  of  Harold  Barefoot  and  other 
Danes.  To  the  N.  of  St.  Clement  Danes  is  Clement's  Inn  (p.  151), 
recently  rebuilt,  and  now  the  home  of  the  Fabian  Society,  the 
Playgoers'  Club,  and  other  non-legal  societies.  St.  Clement's  Well, 
once  situated  here,  was  removed  in  1874.  Shallow  (Henry  IV.,  Part  II) 
reminds  us  that  he  'was  once  of  Clement's  Inn',  when  he  was  known 
as  *mad  Shallow'  and  'lusty  Shallow'.  —  In  the  Strand,  opposite 
the  W.  facade  of  St,  Clement  Danes,  rises  a  Statue  of  W.  E.  Gladstone^ 
by  Hamo  Thornycroft  (1905),  surrounded  by  allegorical  groups  re- 
presenting Brotherhood,  Education,  Courage,  and  Aspiration. 

From  this  point  westwards  to  Wellington  Street  the  Strand  has 
recently  been  greatly  widened,  the  site  of  Holywell  Street,  between 
St.  Clement's  and  St.  Mary  le  Strand's,  being  now  thrown  into  the 
main  thoroughfare.    The  new  frontage  on  the  N.  is  still  unoccupied 


158  n.  KING»S  COLLEGE.      The  West  End, 

by  bnildings  until  we  reach  the  Gaiety  Restaniant  and  Theatre 
(p.  45),  hnt  sites  hare  been  secured  here  for  new  offices  for  the 
colonies  of  Victoria  and  New  South  Wales. 

To  the  K.  of  this  section  of  the  Strand  very  extensiye  alterations  hare 
been  made  in  connection  with  the  formation  of  a  much  needed  direct 
thoroughfare  to  Holborn  (PI.  R,  31 1 II).  The  old  Gaiety,  Globe,  and  Olympic 
Theatres,  Wych  Street,  and  numerous  other  narrow  streets,  courts,  and 
buildings  have  disappeared  in  the  course  of  the  improvements.  A  crescent 
(100  ft.  wide),  known  as  Aldwtch,  now  extends  in  a  shallow  curve  from 
St.  Clements  to  the  S.  end  of  Catherine  Street,  being  separated  from  the 
Strand  by  a  so-called  ^island  block\  The  E.  portion  of  the  crescent  is 
still  unbuilt,  but  on  the  N.  side  of  its  W.  curve  rises  the  Waldorf  Hotel 
(p.  4),  flanked  on  the  right  and  left  by  the  Aldwych  and  Waldorf  Theatres 
(PI.  B,  31;  pp.44,  47).  From  the  apex  of  Aldwych  Eingswat,  an  avenue 
of  the  same  width,  runs  straight  to  Holborn,  passing  a  little  to  the  W.  of 
Lincoln^s  Inn  Fields  (p.  207j  and  debouching  opponte  Southanxpton  Bow. 
In  its  N.  portion,  formerly  little  Queen  Street,  stands  Trinity  Church  (PI. 
B,  31,  32;  If),  on  the  site  of  the  house  in  which  Mary  Lamb  killed  her 
mother  in  a  fit  of  insanity  (1796).  —  Shallow  underground  tramway  below 
Eingsway  and  tramway-tunnel  to  the  Embankment.  seeKos.  4,  4a  on  p.  21. 

To  theW.  of  Eingsway  is  Dbubt  Lane  (PI.  B,3i),  containing  Drvry  Lane 
Theatre  (p.  45)  and  leading  to  the  W.  to  Oxford  Street  and  the  British  Museum. 

Essex  Street,  Arundel  Street,  Norfolk  Street,  and  Surrey  Street, 
diverging  to  the  S.  of  the  Strand ,  mark  the  spots  where  stood  the 
mansions  of  the  Earl  of  Essex  (Queen  Elizabeth's  farourite)  and 
the  Earl  of  Arundel  and  Surrey  (Norfolk);  they  all  lead  to  the 
Thames  Embankment.  Peter  the  Great  resided  in  Norfolk  Street 
during  his  visit  to  London  in  1698,  William  Penn  once  lived  at 
No.  21,  and  Mrs.  Lirriper's  famous  lodgings  were  in  the  same  street. 
In  Devereux  Court,  to  the  E.  of  Essex  Street,  is  a  bust  of  Lord 
Essex,  said  to  be. by  Golley  Gibber  and  to  mark  the  site  of  the 
Grecian  Coffee  House.  George  Sale  (1680-1736),  the  translator  of 
the  Koran,  as  well  as  Congreve  (d.  1729),  the  dramatist,  lived  and 
died  in  Surrey  Street.  At  No.  5  Strand  Lane,  the  narrow  opening 
to  the  W.  of  the  Strand  Station  (p.  35),  is  an  ancient  Soman  Bath, 
about  13  ft.  long,  6  ft.  broad,  and  41/2  ft.  deep,  one  of  the  few  relics 
of  the  Roman  period  in  London  (open  to  visitors  on  Sat,  11-12). 
The  bricks  at  the  side  are  laid  edgewise,  and  the  flooring  consists 
of  brick  with  a  thin  coating  of  stucco.  At  the  point  where  the 
water,  which  flows  from  a  natural  spring,  has  washed  away  part  of 
the  stucco  covering,  the  old  pavement  below  is  visible.  The  clear, 
cold  water  probably  flows  from  the  old  ^Holy  WelV,  situated  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  Strand,  which  lent  its  name  to  Holywell  Street  (p.  157). 
The  Roman  antiquities  found  here  are  preserved  in  the  British 
Museum  (p.  317).  Close  by,  on  the  right  of  the  passage,  is  another 
bath,  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  Earl  of  Essex  about  1588 ;  it 
is  supplied  by  a  pipe  from  the  Roman  bath. 

King's  College »  the  large  pile  of  buildings  adjoining  Strand 
Lane  on  the  W.,  built  by  Smirke  in  1828,  forms  the  E.  wing  of 
Somerset  House  (see  p.  159).  It  is  now  a  school  of  London  Uni- 
versity (p.  341)  and  has  departments  for  theology,  arts,  general 


7he  West  End.      12.  SOMERSET  HOUSE.  159 

literature,  science,  medicine,  etc.  Among  its  distinguished  students 
were  Sir  James  Fitzjames  Stephen,  Prof.  Gayley,  Prof.  Thorold 
Rogers,  and  Dean  Farrar.  The  Museum  contains  a  collection  of 
models  and  instruments,  including  apparatus  used  by  Daniell,  Fara- 
day, and  Wheatstone.  —  The  School  for  Boys,  formerly  here,  has 
been  removed  to  Wimbledon. 

In  the  Strand  we  next  reach,  on  the  N.  side,  the  church  of 
8t.  ICaryle  Strand,  built  by  Oibhs  in  1717,  on  the  spot  where 
stood  in  olden  times  the  notorious  Maypole,  the  May-day  and  Sun- 
day delight  of  youthful  and  other  idlers.  It  was  called  St.  Mary's 
aftei  an  earlier  church  which  had  been  demolished  by  Protector 
Somerset  to  make  zoom  for  his  mansion  of  Old  Somerset  House 
{see  below).  Thomas  Becket  was  rector  of  this  parish  in  the  reign 
of  King  Stephen  (1147). 

Farther  on,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Strand,  rises  the  stately  facade 
of  Somenet  Home  (PI.  R,  31 ;  11^,  150  ft.  in  length.  The  present 
large  quadrangular  building  was  erected  by  Sir  William  Chambers 
in  1776-86,  on  the  site  of  st  palace  which  the  Protector  Somerset 
began  to  build  in  1549.  The  Protector,  howeyer,  was  beheaded 
(p.  132)  before  it  was  completed,  and  the  palace  fell  to  the  Crown. 
It  was  afterwards  the  residence  of  Anne  of  Denmark ,  consort  of 
James  1.,  of  Henrietta  Maria,  the  queen  of  Charles  I.,  and  of  Cath- 
arine of  Braganza,  the  neglected  wife  of  the  second  Charles.  Inigo 
Jones  died  here  in  1652.  The  old  building  was  taken  down 
in  1766,  and  the  present  edlffioe,  now  occupied  by  Tarious  public 
offices,  erected  in  its  stead.  The  imposing  principal  facade  to- 
wards the  Thames,  780  ft  in  length,  rises  on  a  terrace  50  ft. 
broad  and  50  ft.  high,  and  is  now  separated  from  the  river  by 
the  Victoria  Embankment.  The  quadrangular  court  contains  a 
bronze  group  by  Bacon ,  representing  George  III.  leaning  on  a 
rudder,  with  the  English  lion  and  Father  Thames  at  his  feet.  The 
two  wings  of  the  building  were  erected  during  the  19th  cent.  : 
the  eastern,  containing  King's  College  (p.  158),  by  Smirke,  in 
1828 ;  the  western,  towards  Wellington  Street,  by  Pennethomej  in 
1854-56.  The  sum  expended  in  constructing  the  latter  alone 
was  81,000i.;  and  the  cost  of  the  whole  building  amounted  to 
500,000i.  At  Somerset  House  no  fewer  than  1600  officials  are  em- 
ployed, with  salaries  amounting  in  the  aggregate  to  350,000Z.  The 
building  is  said  to  contain  3600  windows.  The  public  offices 
established  here  include  the  Audit  Office;  the  Inland  Revenue 
Office,  in  the  new  W.  wing,  where  stamps  are  issued  and  public 
taxes  and  excise  duties  received;  the  Office  of  the  Registrar- General 
ofBirthSy  Deaths,  and  Marriages;  and  the  Probate  Registry.  The  last, 
to  which  Doctors^  Commons  Will  Office  (p.  94)  was  transferred  in 
1874,  is  the  great  repository  of  testamentary  writings  of  all  kinds. 
The  will  of  Napoleon  I.,  executed  at  St.  Helena,  used  to  be  kept 
here,  but  was  handed  over  to  the  French  in  1853.    The  registers 


160  12.  SAVOY  CHAPEL  The  West  End. 

of  wills  go  back  to  the  14th  centnry.  The  lowest  recorded  amount  of 
personalty  is  1«.  7d.,  in  a  will  of  1882.  Visitors  (daily,  10-3)  are 
allowed  to  read  copies  of  wills  preyions  to  1700,  from  which  also 
pencil  extracts  may  be  made.  For  showing  wills  of  a  later  date  a 
charge  of  1«.  is  made.  A  fee  of  la.  is  also  charged  for  searching 
the  calendars.  No  extracts  may  be  made  from  these  later  wills, 
but  official  copies  may  be  procured  at  8d.  per  folio  page. 

On  the  W.  side  of  Somerset  House  is  Wellington  Street,  lead- 
ing to  *WateTloo  Bridge.  This  bridge,  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
world,  was  built  by  John  Rennie  for  a  company  in  1811-17,  at  a 
cost  of  over  1,000, OOOt.  It  is  460  yds.  long  and  42  ft.  broad,  and 
rests  upon  9  arches,  each  of  120  ft.  span  and  35  ft.  high,  and 
borne  by  granite  buttresses.  It  commands  an  admirable  view  of  the 
W.  part  of  London  between  Westminster  and  St.  Paul's,  of  the 
Thames  Embankment,  and  of  the  massive  but  well-proportioned 
facade  of  Somerset  House.  In  1878  the  bridge  was  sold  to  the 
Metropolitan  Board  of  Works  for  475,000i.  and  opened  to  the  public 
toll-free.  —  Waterloo  Bridge  Road,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  river,  leads 
to  Waterloo  Station  (p.  29). 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Strand  we  next  observe  the  Oaiety  Theatre 
(p.  45),  at  the  W.  extremity  of  the  4sland- block'  between  the 
Strand  and  Aldwych  (p.  158),  then  the  imposing  offices  of  the 
^Momir^  Post\  and,  beyond  Wellington  St.,  the  Lyceum  Theaire 
(p.  46).  Between  Burleigh  Street  and  Exeter  Street  (commemorating 
Exeter  House,  the  residence  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  Lord  Chancellor), 
the  large  New  Strand  Hotel  Is  being  built  on  the  site  of  Exeter 
Hall,  famous  for  its  religious  and  philanthropic  meetings. 

To  the  left  is  Savoy  Street,  leading  to  the  Savoy  Chapel  i  de- 
dicated to  St.  John  the  Baptist ,  and  built  in  the  Perpendicular 
style  in  1505-11,  during  the  reigns  of  Henry  VII.  and  Henry  VIII., 
on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Savoy  Palace. 

The  chapel,  created  one  of  the  Chapels  Royal  by  George  III.  and  now 
a  *Royal  Peculiar^  attached  to  the  Duchy  of  Lancaster,  was  serioasly  iigared 
by  tire  in  1864,  but  restored  at  the  expense  of  Queen  Victoria.  Th« 
handsome  wooden  ceiling  is  modem.  Bishop  Gavin  Douglas  of  Dunkeld 
(d.  1522),  the  poetical  translator  of  Virgil,  is  buried  in  the  chancel  (with 
brass),  and  George  Wither  (d.  1667),  the  poet,  was  also  buried  here.  Fine 
stained  glass.  A  memorial  window  to  Mr.  D'  Oyly  Carte  (d.  1901),  by 
E.  J.  Priest,  was  placed  to  the  right  of  the  main  entrance  in  1902.  Savoy 
Palace  was  first  built  in  1245,  and  was  given  by  Henry  HI.  to  Peter,  Count 
of  Savoy,  the  uncle  of  his  queen,  Eleanor  of  Provence.  The  captive  King 
John  of  France  died  here  in  1364,  and  Chaucer  was  probably  married  here 
when  the  palace  was  occupied  by  John  of  Gaunt.  It  lay  between  the  present 
chapel  and  the  river,  but  has  entirely  disappeared.  At  the  Savoy,  in  the 
time  of  Cromwell,  the  Independents  adopted  a  Confession  of  Faith,  and 
here  the  celebrated  'Savoy  Conference*  for  the  revision  of  the  Prayer  Book 
was  held,  when  Baxter,  Calamy,  and  others  represented  the  Nonconformists. 
The  German  chapel  which  used  to  stand  contiguous  to  the  Savoy  Chapel 
was  removed  in  widening  Savoy  Street,  which  now  forms  a  thoroughfare 
to  the  Thames  Embankment.  The  French  Protestants  who  conformed  to 
the  English  church  had  a  chapel  here  from  the  time  of  Charles  IT.  til) 
1737.     See  Afemorials  of  the  Saroy^  by  the  Rev.  W.  J.  Loftie. 


The  West  End,      12.   SOCIETY  OF  ARTS.  161 

Farther  on,  to  the  left,  U  Terry's  Theatre  (p.  47),  beyond  which, 
between  Founiam  Court  and  Savoy  Court  lise  the  handsome  new 
Savoy  Buildings,  masking  the  Sayoy  Hotel  (p.  4).  Savoy  Court 
(formerly  Beaufort  Buildings)  leads  to  the  hotel  and  to  the  Savoy 
Theatre  (p.  46);  on  the  wall  to  the  left  are  tablets  commemorating 
the  historical  associations  of  this  site. 

At  No.  13  Cecil  Street,  to  the  left  (now  engulfed  by  the  H6tel 
Cecil),  Sir  W.  Congreve  (d.  1828),  the  inTentor  of  the  Congreve 
Rocket,  resided  and  made  his  experiments,  firing  the  rockets 
across  the  Thames.  Edmund  Eean  (1787-1833)  liyed  at  No.  21 
in  the  same  street. 

A  little  to  the  N.  of  this  part  of  the  Strand  lies  Covent  Garden 
Market  (p.  210).  On  the  right,  between  Southampton  Street  and 
Bedford  Street,  is  the  Vaudeville  Theatre  (p.  47);  beyond  it,  the 
Adelphi  Theatre  (p.  44).  David  Garrick  lived  at  No.  27  Southamp- 
ton Street  from  1750  to  1772  (tablet).  In  Bedford  Street  is  a 
store  of  the  Civil  Service  Supply  Association  (p.  64). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Strand,  opposite  the  Adelphi  Theatre,  is  the 
region  known  as  'The  Adelphi*,  built  by  four  brothers  called  Adam, 
whose  names  are  commemorated  in  Adam  St.,  John  St.,  Robert  St., 
James  St.,  and  William  St.,  and  in  the  Adelphi  Terrace.  In  John  St. 
rises  the  building  of  the  Society  of  Arts  (PL  R,  30 ;  /i) ,  an  asso- 
ciation established  in  1754  for  the  encouragement  of  arts,  manu- 
factures, and  commerce,  which  took  a  prominent  part  in  promoting 
the  Exhibitions  of  1851  and  1862.  The  large  hall  (open  daily, 
10-4,  Sat.  10-1)  contains  six  paintings  by  Barry  (1777-83),  re- 
presenting the  progress  of  civilization,  —  Adelphi  Terrace,  over- 
looking the  Thames  and  the  Embankment,  contains  the  house 
(No.  5)  in  which  David  Garrick  died  in  1779  (tablet).  Nos.  6  and 
7  in  this  terrace  are  occupied  by  the  Savage  Club;  No.  8  by  the 
Irish  Literary  Society;  and  No.  9  by  the  Royal  Statistical  Society, 
The  arches  below  l^e  terrace  were  once  a  resort  of  bad  characters  of 
various  kinds,  but  are  now  enclosed  as  wine-cellars. 

On  the  right,  where  King  William  Street  joins  the  Strand,  stands 
the  Charing  Cross  Hospital;  and  in  King  William  Street  is  the 
Westminster  Ophthalmic  Hospital,  Farther  on,  on  the  site  of  the  old 
Lowther  Arcade,  are  the  new  premises  of  Coutts^s  Bank,  a  very 
noted  firm,  with  which  the  royal  family  has  banked  for  200  years. 
Till  Aug.  1904  this  bank  occupied  a  building  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
Strand,  nearly  opposite.  The  names  of  several  streets  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  Strand  here  (George,  Yilliers,  Duke,  Buckingham)  refer  to 
George  Yilliers,  Duke  of  Buckingham,  who  once  owned  their  site 
(comp.  p.  126).  'Of  Lane  has  disappeared.  No.  15  Buckingham 
Street  formed  part  of  York  House  (p.  126)  and  contains  old  ceilings 
adorned  with  stucco  and  paintings ;  it  was  once  tenanted  by  Peter 
the  Great.  The  chambers  on  the  top-floor  of  this  house  are  identi- 
fied with  those  taken  by  Miss  Trotwood  for  David  Copperfleld. 

Babdbebb^s  London.    ISth  Bdit.  11^ 


162  13.  TRAFALGAR  SQUARE.    27»e  West  End, 

William  Black,  tlie  novelist,  had  rooms  here.  No.  14  stands  on  the 
site  of  Pepys's  old  house ;  in  the  present  hnilding  the  rooms  once 
occupied  by  Etty,  the  painter,  are  still  preseryed. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  Strand,  on  the  left,  is  Charing  Cross 
Station  (with  a  large  Hotels  p.  4) ,  a  West  End  terminus  of  the 
South  Eastern  Railway  (p.  27),  built  by  Barry  on  the  site  of 
Hungtrford  Market^  where  the  mansion  of  Sir  Edward  Hungerford 
stood  until  it  was  burned  down  in  1669.  In  front  of  it  stands  a  mod- 
ern copy  of  Eleanor's  Cross,  a  Gothic  monument  erected  in  1291  by 
Edward  I.  at  Charing  Gross  (p.  164),  near  the  spot  where  the  coffin 
of  his  consort  was  set  down  during  its  last  halt  on  the  way  to  West 
minster  Abbey.  The  original  was  removed  by  order  of  Parliament  in 
1647.  The  river  is  here  crossed  by  the  Charing  Cross  Railway  Bridge, 
on  one  side  of  which  is  a  footway  (freed  from  toll  in  1878;  the  most 
direct  route  to  Waterloo  Station).  —  To  the  E.  of  the  station  is 
ViUiers  Street,  which  descends  to  the  Embankment  Oardens  (p.  126) 
and  to  the  Charing  Cross  Station  (p.  32)  of  the  Metropolitan  District 
Railway. —Benjamin  Franklin  lived  at  No.  7  Craven  Street  (denoted 
by  a  memorial  tablet),  to  the  W.  of  the  station.  —  Tube  Stations, 
see  pp.  34,  36. 

13. .  Trafalgar  Square. 

Nelson  Column.   St.  Martin's  in  the  Fields.    Charing  Cross. 

*Trafklgar  Square  (PI.  R,  26 ;  //,  IV),  one  of  the  finest  open 
places  in  London  and  a  great  centre  of  attraction,  is,  so  to  speak, 
dedicated  to  Lord  Nelson^  and  commemorates  his  glorious  death  at  the 
battle  of  Trafalgar  (22nd  Oct.,  1805),  gained  by  the  English  fleet  over 
the  combined  armaments  of  France  and  Spain.  By  this  victory  Na- 
poleon's purpose  of  invading  England  was  frustrated.  The  ambitious 
Emperor  had  assembled  at  Boulogne  an  army  of  172,000  infantry 
and  9000  cavalry,  and  also  2413  transports  to  convey  his  soldiers  to 
England,  but  his  fleet,  which  he  had  been  building  for  many  years 
at  an  enormous  cost,  and  which  was  to  have  covered  his  passage  of 
the  Channel,  was  destroyed  by  Nelson  at  this  famous  battle.  The 
Admiral  is,  therefore,  justly  revered  as  the  saviour  of  his  country. 

In  the  centre  of  the  square  rises  the  massive  granite  Columiii 
145  ft.  in  height,  to  the  memory  of  the  hero.  It  is  a  copy  of 
one  of  the  Corinthian  columns  of  the  temple  of  Mars  Ultor,  the 
avenging  god  of  war,  at  Rome,  and  is  crowned  with  a  Statue  of 
Nelson,  by  Baily ,  17  ft.  in  height.  The  pedestal  is  adorned  with 
reliefs  in  bronze ,  cast  with  the  metal  of  captured  French  cannon. 
On  the  N.  face  is  a  scene  from  the  battle  of  Aboukir  (1798) :  Nel- 
son, wounded  in  the  head,  declines  to  be  assisted  out  of  his  turn 
by  a  surgeon  who  has  been  dressing  the  wounds  of  a  common  sailor. 
On  the  E.  side  is  the  battle  of  Copenhagen  (1801) :  Nelson  is  re- 
presented as  sealing  upon  a  cannon  the  treaty  of  peace  with  the 


TheW,End,   13.  ST.  MA^RTIN'S  IN  THE  FIELDS.  163 

conquered  Danes.  On  tlie  S.  is  the  death  of  Nelson  at  Trafalgar 
f2l8t  Oct.,  1805);  beside  the  dying  hero  is  Captain  Hardy,  com- 
mander of  the  Admiral's  flag-ship.  Below  is  Nelson's  last  sig- 
nal: 'England  expects  erery  man  will  do  his  duty'.  On  the  W. 
side  is  a  representation  of  Nelson  receiTing  the  sword  of  the  Span- 
ish commander  after  the  battle  of  St  Vincent  (1797). —  Four  colossal 
bronze  lions ,  modelled  by  Sir  Edwin  Landaeer  (d.  1871)  in  1867, 
conch  npon  pedestals  mnning  ont  from  the  column  in  the  form  of  a 
cross.  —  The  monument  was  erected  in  1843  by  voluntary  con- 
tributions at  a  total  cost  of  about  45,000Z.  To  the  E.  is  an  entrance 
to  the  Trafalgar  Square  Station  of  the  Baker  Street  and  Waterloo 
Railway  (p.  34). 

Towards  the  N.  side  of  the  square,  which  is  payed  with  asphalt, 
are  two  fountains.  A  Statue  of  Sir  Henry  Havelocky  the  deliTcrer  of 
Luoknow  (d.  1857),  by  Behnes,  stands  on  the  E.  (Strand)  side  of 
the  Nelson  Column,  and  a  Statxu  of  Sir  Charlea  James  Napier,  the 
conqueror  of  Scinde  (d.  1853),  by  AdamSy  on  the  other.  The  N.E. 
corner  of  the  square  is  occupied  by  an  Equestrian  Statue  of  George  IV. , 
in  bronze,  by  Chantrey,  Between  the  fountains  is  a  Statue  of  Gen- 
eral Gordon  (d.  1885),  by  Hamo  Thomycroft,  erected  in  1888. 

On  the  terrace  on  the  N.  side  of  the  square  rises  the  National 
GalUry  (p.  165),  adjoined  by  the  National  Portrait  Gallery  (p.  197). 
Near  it,  on  the  E.,  is  the  church  of  St.  Martin  in  the  Fields, 
with  a  noble  Grecian  portico,  erected  in  1721-26  by  Gibbs,  on  the 
site  of  an  earlier  church.  The  tower  and  spire  are  185  ft.  high.  In  the 
church,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  nave,  is  a  bust  of  Gibbs,  by  Byshrach. 
Nell  Gwynne  (d.  1687),  Farquhai  the  dramatist  (d.  1707),  Roubiliac 
the  sculptor  (d.  1762),  and  James  Smith  (d.  1839),  one  of  the 
authors  of  ^Rejected  Addresses',  were  buried  in  the  churchyard. 

Adjoining  Morley's  Hotel,  on  the  B.  side  of  the  square,  is  the  build- 
ing of  the  Boyal  Humane  Society,  founded  in  1774  for  the  rescue 
of  drowning  persons.  This  valuable  society  possesses  a  model  house 
on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Serpentine  in  Hyde  Park,  containing  models 
of  the  best  appliances  for  saving  life,  and  apparatus  for  aiding 
bathers  and  skaters  who  may  be  in  danger.  It  also  awards  prizes 
and  medals  to  persons  who  have  saved  others  from  drowning. 

On  the  W.  side  of  Trafalgar  Square,  between  Cockspur  Street 
and  Pall  Mall  East,  is  the  Union  Club  (p.  76),  adjoining  which  is  the 
Boyal  College  of  Physicians.,  built  by  Smirke  in  1826,  and  containing 
a  number  of  portraits  and  busts  of  celebrated  London  physicians. 

Down  to  1874  Northumberland  House,  the  noble  mansion  of  the 
Dnke  of  Northumberland,  with  the  lion  of  the  Percies  high  above 
the  gates,  rose  on  the  S.E.  side  of  Trafalgar  Square.  It  was  purchas- 
ed in  1873  by  the  Metropolitan  Board  of  Works  for  497, 000^.,  and 
was  removed  to  make  way  for  Northumberland  Avenue,  a  broad  new 
street  from  Charing  Cross  to  the  Thames  Embankment  (comp.  p. 
125).  The  Grand  H6tel  (p.  4)  occupies  part  of  the  site.  Two  other 

11* 


164  13.   CHARING  CROSS.        The  West  End, 

large  hotels,  the  HdtelMitropole  and  the  Hdtel  Victoria,  have  been 
built  on  the  opposite  side  of  Noithnmberland  Ayenue.  Next  dooz 
to  the  Grand  H6tel  is  the  Constitutional  Club,  a  handsome  bnilding 
of  red  and  yellow  terracotta  in  the  style  of  the  German  Renaissance, 
by  Edis,  erected  in  1886.  At  the  corner  of  Northumberland  Avenue 
and  Whitehall  Place,  facing  the  Thames,  is  the  magnificent  build-  « 
ing  of  the  National  Liberal  Club,  by  Waterhouse,  opened  in  1887, 
with  a  spacious  terrace  oyerlooking  the  Embankment  Gardens. 

Charing  Cross  (PI.  R,26,  and  /F;  probably  so  called  from  the 
village  of  Cherringe  which  stood  here  in  the  13th  cent.),  on  the  S. 
side  of  Trafalgar  Square,  between  the  Strand  and  Whitehall,  is  the 
principal  point  of  Intersection  of  the  omnibus  lines  of  the  West  End, 
and  the  centre  of  the  4  and  12  miles  circles  on  the  Post  Office  Di- 
rectory Map.  The  Equestrian  Statue  of  Charles  I. ,  by  Le  Sueur,  which 
stands  here,  is  remarkable  for  the  vicissitudes  it  has  undergone.  It 
was  cast  in  1633,  but  had  not  yet  been  erected  when  the  Civil  War 
broke  out.  It  was  then  sold  by  the  Parliament  to  a  brazier,  named 
John  Rivet,  for  the  purpose  of  being  melted  down,  and  this  worthy 
sold  pretended  fragments  of  it  both  to  friends  and  foes  of  the 
Stuarts.  At  the  Restoration,  however,  the  statue  was  produced 
uninjured,  and  in  1674  it  was  erected  on  the  spot  where  Eleanor^ a 
Cross  (p.  162)  had  stood  down  to  1647.  In  Hartshorn  Lane,  an 
adjoining  street ,  Ben  Jonson ,  when  a  boy ,  once  lived  with  his 
mother  and  her  second  husband,  a  bricklayer. 

In  connection  with  the  National  Memorial  to  Queen  Victoria  (see  p.  S23) 
a  number  of  houses  at  the  S.W.  angle  of  Charing  Gross  are  about  to  be 
pulled  down,  to  permit  the  extension  of  the  Mall  (p.  822)  to  Charing  Cross 
(comp.  PI.  B,  36;  IV).  Buckingham  Palace  and  the  Memorial  will  then  be 
visible  from  Charing  Cross. 

Chabino  Cboss  Road  (PI.  R,  27;  //,  IV),  a  great  and  much 
needed  thoroughfare  from  Charing  Cross  to  Tottenham  Court  Road, 
cuts  through  a  number  of  low  streets  and  alleys  to  the  N.  of  St. 
Martin's  Church.  At  the  S.  end  of  this  street,  to  the  left,  is  the 
National  Portrait  Gallery  (p.  197),  in  front  of  which  a  Statue  of 
Sir  Henry  Irving  (by  Brock)  is  about  to  be  erected.  To  the  right 
are  the  Westminster  City  Hall  and  Public  Library,  the  Qarrick 
Theatre  (p.  46),  and  Wyndharns  Theatre  (p.  47).  No.  22,  on  the  same 
side,  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Royal  National  Life  Boat  Institution, 
founded  in  1824  and  supported  entirely  by  voluntary  contribu- 
tions. This  society  now  possesses  a  fleet  of  280  life-boats  stationed 
round  the  British  coasts,  and  in  1907  was  instrumental  in  saving 
1166  lives  and  43  vessels.  The  total  number  of  lives  saved  through 
the  agency  of  the  Institution  from  its  foundation  down  to  1907  was 
47,345.  The  expenditure  of  the  society  in  1907  was  90,2382.  Sec, 
Mr.  Charles  Dibdln.  —  On  the  left  side  of  Charing  Cross  Road  are 
an  entrance  to  the  Alhanibra  (p.  48)  and  the  Hippodrome  (p.  48). 
The  road  then  expands  into  Cambridge  Circus,  in  which  is  the 
handsome  facade  of  the  Palace  Music  HaU  (p.  48),  erected  as  the 


The  West  End.     14.  NATIONAL  .GALLERY.  165 

Royal  English  Opera  House  in  1891.  In  the  section  of  Charing  Gross 
Road  to  the  N.  of  the  Circus  is  the  church  of  8U  Mary  the  Virgin^  Soho, 
on  the  site  of  the  first  Greek  church  in  London  (167T).  —  Shaftbs- 
BTTRY  ATENxm,  auothei  wide  street  opened  in  1886,  runs  from 
Piccadilly  Circus,  past  the  Liyrie^  the  Apollo^  the  Hieks^  the  QueerCs^ 
and  the  Shaftesbury  Theatres  (pp.  45-47),  to  meet  Charing  Cross 
Road  at  Camhridge  Circus,  and  is  prolonged  to  New  Oxford  Street 
opposite  Hart  Street,  Bloomshury. 


14.  The  National  Gallery. 

Among  the  huildings  round  Trafalgar  Square  the  principal  in 
point  of  size,  although  perhaps  not  in  architectural  merit,  is  the 
**Hatioxial  Gallery  fpi.  R,  26;  //),  situated  on  a  terrace  on  the  N. 
side,  and  erected  in  1832-38,  at  an  original  costof96,000f.,  on  the 
site  of  the  old  King's  Mews.  The  building,  designed  by  Wilkins^  is  in 
the  Grecian  style,  and  has  a  facade  460  ft.  in  length.  The  Gallery 
was  considerably  altered  and  enlarged  in  I860;  an  extensiye  ad- 
dition (Including  the  central  octagon)  was  made  by  Mr.  E.  M. 
Barry  in  1876;  andflye  other  rooms,  including  a  gallery  86  ft.  long, 
were  opened  in  1887.  Yet  another  addition  is  now  in  course  of 
construction, 

Tbe  nucleus  of  the  National  Gallery,  which  was  formed  by  Act  of  Par- 
liament in  1824,  consisted  solely  of  the  Angerstein  collection  of  38  pictures. 
It  has,  however,  been  rapidly  and  greatly  extended  by  means  of  dona- 
tions, legacies,  and  purchases,  and  is  now  composed  of  over  2O0O  pictures, 
about  1100  of  which  are  exhibited  in  the  22  rooms  of  the  Gallery ^  while 
Ae  others  are  either  housed  in  the  Tate  Gallery  (modern  British  pictures ; 
comp.  p.  251)  or  are  lent  to  provincial  collections.  Among  the  most  im- 
portant additions  have  been  the  collections  presented  or  bequeathed  by 
Robert  Vernon  (1847),  J.  M.  W.  Turner  (1856),  and  Wynn  EUis  (1876)? 
and  the  Peel  collection,  bought  in  1871.  A  number  of  works,  temporarily 
lent  by  private  owners,  are  also  to  be  seen  on  the  walls.  For  a  long  period 
part  of  the  building  was  occupied  by  the  Royal  Academy  of  Arts,  which, 
however,  was  removed  to  Burlington  House  (see  p.  265)  in  1869.  There  are 
other  national  collections  at  South  Kensington  (p.  355)  and  at  Hertford 
House  (p.  275). 

From  the  number  of  artists  represented  the  collection  in  the  National 
Gallery  is  exceedingly  valuable  to  students  of  the  history  of  art.  The 
older  Italian  masters  are  especially  important.  The  paintings  are  arranged 
in  schools,  with  as  close  an  adherence  as  possible  to  a  chronological  order. 
Each  picture  is  inscribed  with  the  name  of  the  painter,  the  year  of  his 
birth  and  death,  the  school  to  which  he  belongs,  and  the  subject  represented. 
The  catalogues  originally  prepared  by  Mr.  Womum  (d.  1877),  and  since 
re-issued  with  corrections  and  additions  (Foreign  Schools  1<.,  abridgment 
6<f.,  1906}  British  School  6d.,  1906),  comprise  short  biographies  of  the 
different  artists.  In  a  few  instances  this  Handbook  differs  from  the  Cata- 
logue in  its  ascriptions  of  authorship.  The  *Pall  Mall  Gazette  Guide  to 
the  National  Gallery'  (6d.;  sold  outside  the  doors)  contains  a  descriptive 
catalogue  and  a  scheme  for  studying  the  gallery  in  a  series  of  twelve 
^half-holiday  visits'.  Mr,  E.  T.  Cook's  'Popular  Handbook  to  the  National 
Gallery*  (London;  Hacmillan  &  Co.)  includes  an  interesting  collection  of 
notffs  on  the  pictures  by  Mr.  Ruskin  and  others.  Mr.  Cosmo  Monkhouse's 
'In  the  National  Gallery'  (1895)  may  also  be  consulted.  'The  National 
Gallery',  edited  by  Sir  Edward  J.  Pointer,   is  a  monumental  work   in 


166  14.  NATIOJfAL  GALLERT.     The  West  End: 

three  volumea,  with  reproductions  of  every  picture  in  the  National  and 
Tate  Galleries  (1900-1901;  price  11.  7s.). 

The  present  director  is  Sir  Charles  Eolroi/d,  and  the  keeper  and  sec- 
retary is  Afr.  Hatoes  Turner. 

Photographs  of  the  paintings,  by  Morelli,  are  sold  in  the  gallery  at 
prices  ranging  from  U.  to  10a.  Others,  and  perhaps  better,  may  be  found  at 
DeigTUon's^  i  Grand  Hotel  Buildings  (on  the  other  side  of  Trafalgar  Square) . 
at  Han/staengrs,  16  Pall  Mall  East,  and  at  the  Autotype  Fine  Art  Gallery 
74  New  Oxford  Street. 

Admission  to  the  Gallery,  see  p.  82.  Thursday  and  Friday  are 
students*  days  and  should  be  avoided  by  the  ordinary  yisltor,  as  the 
crowds  of  easels  preclude  a  satisfactory  view  of  the  pictures.  The 
Gallery  is  closed  for  cleaning  on  the  Thursday,  Friday,  and  Satur- 
day before  Easter  Sunday.  Sticks  and  umbrellas  may  be  left  at 
the  entrance  (no  charge). 

Hall.  The  main  staircase  facing  us  as  we  enter  ascends  to 
Room  I,  in  which  begins  the  series  of  Italian  works.  The  staircase 
to  the  left  leads  to  the  British  Schools ;  that  on  the  right  to  the  French 
and  Spanish  Schools. 

To  the  extreme  left  is  a  staircase  descending  to  a  room  con- 
taining Water  Colour  Copies  of  paintings  by  early  Italian  and  other 
masters,  executed  for  and  presented  by  the  Arundel  Society. 
To  the  extreme  right  is  a  flight  of  steps  (with  a  bronze  bust  of 
Napoleon  at  the  top)  descending  to  the  collection  of  *Tumef^8  Water 
Colours  (catalogue  by  Ruskin,  !«.),  now  occupying  four  rooms.  An- 
other room  contains  copies  of  paintings  by  Velazquez  at  Madrid  and 
by  Rembrandt  at  St.  Petersburg. 

On  the  walls  of  the  left  (W.)  half  of  the  hall  are  paintings  of 
the  British  School :  on  the  left,  725.  Wright  of  Derby,  Experiment 
with  an  air-pump;  317.  Stothard,  Greek  \intage;  922.  Sir  Thomas 
Lawrence  J  Child  with  a  kid.  On  the  wall  of  the  staircase  :  129. 
Lawrence,  Portrait  of  Mr.  Angerstein  (p.  165);  J.  8.  Copley,  787. 
Siege  of  Gibraltar,  733.  Death  of  Major  Peiison;  1349,  1360. 
Landseer,  Studies  of  lions;  *1242.  AUx.  Nasmyth  (176B-1840, 
painter  of  portraits  and  landscapes  at  Edinburgh ;  father  of  Patrick 
Nasmyth),  Stirling  Castle. 

Sir  David  Wilkie  describes  Ales.  Nasmyth  as  ^the  founder  of  the 
landscape  school  of  Scotland,  and  the  first  to  enrich  his  native  land  with 
the  representation  of  her  romantic  scenery'. 

In  the  right  (E.)  half  of  the  hall  are  foreign  paintings:  on  the 
right,  811.  Salvator  Rosa,  Forest  scene  with  Tobias  and  the  angel; 
1013.  Hondecceter,  Poultry ;  238.  WeerUx  the  Younger,  Dead  game. 
On  the  staircase- wall:  2106.  Benedetto  Oennari,  Portrait  of  himself ; 
172,  Carouay^io,  Christ  at  Emmaus;  1130.  Tintoretto,  Christ  washing 
his  Disciples'  feet;  etc. 

The  Vbstibulb  op  the  Main  Staircase  is  roofed  by  a  glass 
dome  and  embellished  with  marble  columns  and  panelling,  of  green 
*cipollino',  *giallo  antico',  '  pavonazzetto ',  etc.  Here  are  hwng 
several  large  paintings  of  the  Beitish  School.    To  the  left  (W.)  : 


The  West  End,    14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.  167 

1413.  Sir  Tho8,  Lawrence^  Portrait  of  Mr.  Philip  Sansom;  789. 
Thomas  Oainsborough  (p.  196),  Family  group ;  Sir  Henry  Raeburn 
(Scottish  School;  d.  1823),  1435.  Portrait  of  Lieut.  Col.  McMurdo, 
1146.  Portrait  of  a  lady;  1228.  Fu8eli(d,  1825),  Titaniaand  Bottom; 
1102.  Longhi^  Andrea  Iron,  Procurator  of  St  Mark's,  Venice  (placed 
here  temporarily).  To  the  right  (E.):  1449.  Philippe  de  Champaigne 
(d.  1674),  Cardinal  Richelieu;  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds  (p.  193),  •143. 
Equestrian  portrait  of  Lord  Ligonier,  681.  Capt.  Orme;  684.  Oains- 
borough,  Dr.  Schomberg ;  144.  5ir  Thomas  Lawrence  (1769-1830), 
Benjamin  West,  the  paint^;  i404.  John  Jackson,  Portrait  of  James 
Northcote,  R.  A.  —  The  North  Vestibule  (see  Plan),  in  the  centre 
of  which  is  a  Renaissance  copy,  in  porphyry,  of  the  head  of  the 
Dying  Alexander  in  the  Ufflzi,  is  now  devoted  mainly  to  the  works 
of  the  Eablt  Tuscan  School,  chiefly  of  historical  interest.  To 
the  right:  1466.  Italian  School,  Virgin  and  Child  with  angels;  594. 
Emmanuel  (Greek  priest ;  Byzantine  School),  SS.  Cosmas  and  Damian 
(one  of  the  earliett  pictures  in  the  Gallery  in  point  of  artistic  de- 
velopment) ;  564.  Margaritone  (Arezzo ;  1216-93),  Virgin  and  Child ; 
681.  SpintUo  Aretino  (Tuscan  School;  d.  1410),  Three  saints;  568. 
School  of  Oiotto,  Coronation  of  the  Virgin ;  579.  School  of  Taddeo 
Oaddi  (d.  1366;  chief  pupil  of  Giotto),  Baptism  of  Christ;  680a. 
J,  Landini,  Holy  Trinity  and  Annunciation,  61Q&,  School  of  Oaddi, 
Almighty,  Virgin,  and  St.  Isaiah,  both  belonging  to  No.  680.  To 
the  left:  1466.  Spinello  Aretino,  Crucifixion;  1842.  Tuscan  School, 
Heads  of  Angels ;  569.  Andrea  Orcagna  (1303-68),  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin,  with  saints  (large  altar-piece  from  San  Pietro  Maggiore  in 
Florence;  school-piece);  1437.  Barnaba  da  Modena  (second  half 
of  14th  cent.),  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost;  1216-1216  B  (above), 
Spinello  Aretino,  Fragments  of  frescoes.  Also,  eleven  interesting 
Greek  portraits  of  the  2nd  and  3rd  cent  from  mummies  found  in 
the  Fayiim. 

Boom  I  is  devoted  to  the  Tuscan  Schools  (15-16th  cent.).  — 
To  the  left:  226.  Tuscan  School  (copy  of  Botticelli?),  Madonna  and 
Child,  with  John  the  Baptist  and  angels,  with  a  rose-hedge  in  the 
background  (fine  circular  frame);  648.  Lcrenzo  di  Credi,  Virgin 
adoring  the  Infant  (in  his  best  style);  218.  Copy  of  Baldossare 
Perutzi,  Adoration  of  the  Kings;  782.  Botticelli,  Madonna  and 
Child;  1124.  FiUppino  Lippi  (pupil  of  Botticelli;  1457-1504), 
Adoration  of  the  Magi  (school-piece);  1199.  Tuecan  School,  Madonna 
and  Oliild  with  the  Infant  St.  John  and  Angels;  1143.  Ridolfo 
Ohirlandaio  (son  of  the  more  famous  Domenico  Ghirlandaio ;  1483- 
1561),  Christ  on  the  way  to  Golgotha. 

•1034.  Sandro  nUpepi,  called  J5ot«cef«  (1447-1510),  The  Na- 
tivity; to  the  left  the  Magi,  to  the  right  the  Shepherds,  in  front 
shepherds  embraced  by  angels.  ^ 

The  subject  is  conceived  in  a  manner  highly  mystical  and  symbolical. 
At  the  top  of  the  picture  is  a  Qreek  inscription  to  the  following  effect. 


168  14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.      The  West  End. 


^This  picture  I,  Aless&ndro,  painted  at  the  end  of  the  year  1500,  in  the 
(troubles)  of  Italy  in  the  half-time  after  the  time  during  the  fulfilment 
of  the  eleventh  of  St.  John  in  the  second  woe  of  the  Apocalypse,  in  the 


loosing  of  the  devil  for  three  years  and  a  half.    Afterwards  he  shall  be 
chained  and  we  shiJl  see  him  trodden  down  as  in  this  picture\ 

248.  Fra  Filippo  Lippi  (1406-69),  Vision  of  St  Bernard;  •592. 
Botticelli,  Adoration  of  the  Magi.  —  809.  In  the  manner  of  idichael 
Angela,  Madonna  and  Child,  with  John  the  Baptist  and  angels  (un- 
finished); 727.  Franc,  Pesellino  (1422-57),  Triniti;  790.  Michael 
Angela  Buonarroti  (1475-1564),  Entombment  (unfinished  and 
youthful  work;  in  tempera,  on  wood).  —  •296.  School  of  VerroeehiOj 
Virgin  adoring  the  Infant  Christ,  with  angels. 

This  painting  is  executed  with  great  carefulness,  but  the  conception 
of  the  forms  and  proportions  is  hardly  worthy  of  a  master  of  the  first 
rank,  such  as  Verrocchio,  to  whom  some  critics  assign  the  work. 

781.  ISucan  School,  Tobias  and  the  Angel;  8.  School  of  Michael 
Angelo,  A  dream  of  human  life;  1194.  Marcello  Venu^ti  (follower 
of  Michael  Angelo ;  d.  ca.  1580),  Jesus  expelling  the  money-changers 
from  the  Temple ;  895,  Piero  di  Cosimo  (pupil  of  Cosimo  Rosselli 
and  teacher  of  A.  del  Sarto;  d.  ca.  1521),  Warrior  in  armour.  — 
♦292.  Antonio  Pollaiuolo  (d.  1498),  Martyrdom  of  St.  Sebastian. 

This  picture  was  painted  in  1475  for  the  altar  of  the  Pucci  chapel, 
in  the  church  of  San  Sebastiano  de''*Seryi  at  Florence,  and  according  to 
Vasari  is  the  artist's  masterpiece.  The  head  of  the  saint,  which  is  of 
great  beauty,  is  the  portrait  of  a  Capponi. 

1150.  Ascribed  to  Jacopo  da  Pontormo  (1494-1557),  Portrait  of 
a  man;  no  number,  B.  del  Ohirlandaio,  Portrait  (on  loan).  — 21. 
Oristofano  AUoH  (1577-1621),  Portrait ;  1035.  Francia  Bigio,  Portrait 
of  a  young  man  j  •293.  Filippino  Lippi,  Madonna  and  Child,  with 
SS.  Jerome  and  Dominic,  an  altar-piece  (rich  landscape)  with 
predella;  1323.  Angelo  di  Cosimo,  called  Bron&ino  (1502-72), 
Piero  de' Medici;  no  number,  Dom.  del  Qhirlandaio,  Portrait  of 
Costanza  de'  Medici  (on  loan);  1131.  Pontormo,  Joseph  and  his 
Brethren ;  according  to  Vasari,  the  boy  seated  on  the  steps,  with 
a  basket,  is  a  portrait  of  Bronzino.  1430.  Beccafumi,  Esther  before 
Ahasuerus;  no  number,  Bernardino  Fungai  (d.  1516),  Holy  Family 
(on  loan);  1033.  Filippino  Lippi,  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  670. 
Bronzino,  Knight  of  St.  Stephen;  649.  Ascribed  to  Pontormo,  Por- 
trait of  a  boy,  in  the  style  of  Bronzino  (probably  a  youthful  work  of 
the  latter) ;  17.  Andrea  del  Sarto  (the  greatest  master  of  the  school; 
1486-1531),  Holy  Family  (school-piece);  246.  Oirolamo  delPacchia 
(d.  after  1535),  Madonna  and  Child.  —  589.  Fra  Filippo  Uppi^ 
Virgin  with  the  Holy  Child  and  an  angel ;  ^690.  Andrea  del  Sarto, 
Portrait,  a  masterpiece  of  chiaroscuro ;  1694.  Fra  Bartolomeo  (1475- 
1517),  Holy  Family;  698.  Piero  di  Cosimo,  Death  of  Procris,  in  a 
beautiful  landscape.  —  651.  Bronzino,  Venus,  Cupid,  Folly,  and 
Time,  an  allegory. 

'Bronzino  painted  a  picture  of  remarkable  beauty,  which  was  sent 
into  France  to  King  Francis.  In  this  picture  was  pourtrayed  a  naked 
Venus  together  with  Cupid,  who  was  kissing  her.    On  the  one  side  were 


TheWestEnd.     14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.  169 

Pleasure  and  Mirth,  with  other  Powers  of  Love,  and  on  the  other  Deceit, 
Jealousy,  and  other  Passions  of  Love.'  —  Va$ari. 

Italian  School  (16th  cent.),  932.  Portrait,  1048.  Portrait  of  a 
Cardinal;  *915.  Bottieellij  Mars  and  Venus;  650.  Bronsmo,  Por- 
trait; •SOS.  Lorenzo  di  Credi  (Florence,  pUpil  of  Veirocchio  at  the 
same  time  as  Leonardo  da  Vinci;  d.  1537),  Madonna  and  Child; 
927.  FUippino  Lippi^  Angel  (fresco);  704.  Bronzino,  Cosimo  I., 
Duke  of  Tuscany;  626.  Botticelli ^  Young  man;  645.  Mariotto 
Albertinelli  (d.  1616),  Virgin  and  Child;  1301.  Tuscan  School, 
Savonarola  (on  the  back,  his  martyrdom);  2082,  School  of  Botticelli^ 
Symbolic  angel;  no  number,"  Jacopo  del  SeUaio,  Virgin  and  angels 
adoring  the  Child  (on  loan). 

Boomll.  SiENESE  AND  otheb,Tu8CAnMastb£s.  To  the  left:  1849. 
Jac,  Pacchiarotto  (1474-1540),  Nativity;  1147.  Amb.  Lorenzetti 
(d.  after  1345),  Heads  of  nuns  (in  fresco) ;  Fra  Filippo  Lippi,  ♦666. 
Annunciation,  *667  (farther  on),  John  the  Baptist  and  six  other 
saints,  seated  on  a  marble  bench  (both  painted  for  Cosimo  de'  Medici 
and  marked  with  his  crest);  573-576  and  (farther  on)  576-678. 
OrcagnOy  Small  pictures  belonging  to  the  large  altar-piece,  No.  569 
(p.  167);  1461.  MatUo  di  Gfiovanni  da  Siena  (d.  1496),  St.  Sebastian ; 
567.  Segna  di  Buonaventura  (Sienese  school;  ca.  1310),  Christ  on  the 
Cross ;1 109.  Niccolb  di  Buonaccotso,  Marriage  of  the  Virgin;  1113. 
Tietro  Lorenzetti  (d.  ca.  1348),  Legendary  subject;  1108.  Sienese 
School  (15th  cent.).  Virgin  enthroned.  —  227.  Cosimo  RosseUi 
(d.  1607 ;  school-piece),  Various  saints  (names  on  the  original  frame) ; 
766,  767.  Domenico  Venezano  (d.  1461),  Saints  (in  fresco).  —  283. 
Benozzo  Oozzoli  (pupil  of  Fra  Angelico;  1420-98),  Virgin  and 
Child  enthroned,  with  saints. 

^The  original  contract  for  this  picture,  dated  23d  Oct.,  1461,  is  still, 
preserved.  The  figure  of  the  Virgin  is  in  this  contract  specially  directed 
to  be  made  similar  in  mode,  form,  and  ornaments  to  the  Virgin  Enthroned, 
in  the  picture  over  the  high-altar  of  San  Marco,  Florence,  by  Fra  Giovanni 
(Angelico)  da  Fiesole,  and  now  in  the  Academy  there".  —  Catalogue. 

•663.  Fra  Angelico  da  Fiesole  (d.  1455),  Christ  with  the  banner 
of  the  Resurrection,  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of  saints,  martyrs,  and 
Dominicans,  *so  beautiful',  says  Vasari,  'that  they  appear  to  be  truly 
beings  of  Paradise';  586.  Zenobio  MacchiaveUi  (pupil  of  Benozzo 
Gozzoli;  1418-79),  Madonna  enthroned;  1406.  JVa  An^eKco,  An- 
nunciation (school-piece).  —  ^566.  Duccio  di  Buoninscgfna  (founder 
of  the  school  of  Siena;  d.  about  1339),  Madonna  and  Child. 

*A  genuine  picture,  which  illustrates  how  well  the  master  could 
vivify  Byzantine  forms  with  tender  feeling\ 

6di,  Benozzo  Oozzoli,  Rape  of  Helen  (school-piece);  1156.  Matteo 
di  Oiovanniy  Assumption,  the  Virgin  throwing  down  her  girdle  as 
a  proof  to  the  incredulous  St.  Thomas ;  1331.  Bernardino  Fungai, 
Virgin  aiid  Child  surrounded  by  cherubim ;  Ugolino  da  Siena,  1188. 
Betrayal  of  Christ,  H89.  On  the  way  to  Calvary;  1682.  Francesco 
di  Giorgio  (1439-1502),  Virgin  and  Child;  1317.  Tuscan  School 
(15th  cent.).  Marriage  of  the  Virgin;   1138.  Andrea  del  Castagno 


170  14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.     TheWestEnd. 

(d.  1457),  Crucifixion  J  Duccio  di  Buoninsegna,  1140.  Christ  healing 
the  blind,  1330.  Transfiguration,  1139.  Annunciation ;. 909.  Ben- 
venuto  da  Siena  (d.  ca.  1518),  Madonna  and  Child;  247.  Matteo  di 
Oiovanni,  EcceHomo;  582.  Fra  Anp«Wco  (school-piece),  TheMagi« 

Boom  m.  Tuscan  Schools.  To  the  left ;  215,  216.  School 
of  Taddeo  Qaddi,  Saints;  1227.  Marcello  Venuiti,  Holy  Family 
(from  a  design  by  Michael  Angel o) :  1196.  Tuscan  School^  Amor 
and  Oastitas;  916.  Botticelli^  Venus  and  Cupid  (school  -  piece) ; 
♦583.  Paolo  Vccello  (d.  1479),  Cavalry  Engagement  at  Sant'  Egidio 
(1416),  one  of  the  earliest  Florentine  representations  of  a  secular 
subject;  1299.  Dom,  Ohirlandaio  (?),  Portrait  of  a  youth  (school- 
piece,  much  restored);  928.  Ascribed  to  Antonio  Pollaiuolo,  Apollo 
and  Daphne;  701.  JuBtut  of  Padua  (School  of  Giottoj  d.  1400), 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  dated  1367  (a  small  triptych,  of  cheerful, 
soft,  and  well-blended  colouring);  565.  Oiov.  Cima6iz<! (1240-1302?), 
Madonna  and  Child  enthroned  ('the  early  efforts  of  Cimabue  and 
Giotto  are  the  burning  messages  of  prophecy,  delivered  by  the 
stammering  lips  of  infants'.  —  Ruskin);  275.  Botticelli^  Virgin  and 
Child  (a  circular  picture  in  a  fine  old  frame) ;  598.  Filippino  Lippi  (?), 
St.  Francis  in  glory.  — 1412.  Filippino  Lippi,  Virgin  and  Child,  with  the 
young  John  the  Baptist;  1897.  Lorenzo  Monaco  (d.  1425),  Coronation 
of  the  Virgin;  652.  Francesco  Rossi  (De'Salviati),  Charity;  1230.  Ohir- 
landaio,  Portrait.  —  1126.  Botticelli  (?),  Assumption  of  the  Virgin. 

In  the  centre  of  the  upper  part  of  the  picture  is  the  Virgin,  kneeling 
before  the  Saviour,  while  around  are  cycles  or  tiers  of  angels,  apostles, 
saints,  and  seraphim.  Below  are  the  apostles  gathered  round  the  tomb  of 
the  Virgin,  with  portraits  of  the  Palmieri,  the  donors  of  the  altar-piece. 
The  picture  was  probably  executed  by  a  pupil  from  a  cartoon  by  Botticelli. 
In  the  background  are  Florence  and  Fiesole,  with  the  Villa  Palmieri. 

570-  572.  Orcagna,  Th  e  Trinity,  with  adoring  angels ;  580.  Jacopo 
Landini  di  Casentino  (d.  ca.  1390),  St.  John  the  Evangelist  lifted 
up  into  Heaven. 

Soom  IV.  Schools  of  Lombabdy  jlsh  Parma.  To  the  left: 
729.  Vincenzo  Foppa  (d.  1492),  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  2089. 
Milanese  School  (16th  cent.).  Madonna  and  Child;  no  number, 
Unkrkown  Master ^  Portrait  of  a  musician  (on  loan);  *923.  Andrea 
da  Solaria  (Milan;  d.  after  1515),  Venetian  senator  (recalling 
Anton,  da  Messina);  1295.  Qirolamo  Giovenone  (Vercelli;  early 
16th  cent.),  Madonna  and  Child  with  saints ;  1438.  Milanese  School^ 
Head  of  John  the  Baptist;  1661,  1662  (farther  on),  Amhrogio 
de  Predis  (ca.  1500),  Angelic  musicians;  *1093.  Leonardo  da  Vinei 
(1452-1619),  Madonna  and  Child,  with  John  the  Baptist  and  an 
angel,  a  studio-copy,  with  alterations,  of  'La  Vierge  aux  Rochers' 
in  the  Louvre,  bought  from  the  Earl  of  Suffolk  in  1880  for  9000^. 
(the  nimbi  and  cross  are  later  additions);  219.  Lombard  School 
(16th  cent.).  Dead  Christ;  700.  Bern,  Lanini  (d.  ca.  1578),  Holy 
Family,  with  Mary  Magdalen,  Pope  Gregory,  and  St.  Paul  (dated 
1543);  1337.  Oiov.  Antonio  Bazziy  surnamed /S»odoma (Siena,  pupil 


TheWeaiEnd.     14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.  171 

of  Leonardo  da  Vinci;  d.  1649),  Head  of  Christ;  1665.  A.  dt  Fredis, 
Portrait;  *734.  Solario^  Portrait,  a  work  of  much  power  and  finish 
(1506);  1465.  QaudentioFerrarHd,  after  1547),  Resurrection;  •728. 
Oiov.  Ant.  BoUraffio  (pupil  of  Da  Vinci  at  Milan;  d.  1616),  Madonna 
and  Child  (an  effective,  though  simple  and  quiet  composition,  suf- 
fused in  a  cool  light).  —  208iB.  Btmardino  Luini  (Milan;  pupil  of 
Da  Vinci;  ca.  1475-1535),  Christ  teaching ;  no  numbers,  Ambrogio 
dt  FrediSy  Portrait  of  Bona  of  Savoy,  Beltraf/io^  Virgin  and  Child 
(both  on  loan);  1152.  Martino  Piazza  (16th  cent.),  John  the  Baptist; 
♦16.  Correggio  (Antonio  AUegri;  d.  1634),Ecce  Homo ;  •IB.  Bernardino 
Luiniy  Christ  disputing  with  the  doctors ;  1410.  Ambrogio  Borgognone 
(architect  and  painter,  Milanese  School;  ca.  1455-1523),  Virgin 
and  Child;  1149.  Marco  da  Oggionno  (Milanese  School,  pupil  of 
Da  Vinci;  d.  1540),  Madonna  and  Child;  76.  After  Correggio^ 
Christ's  Agony  in  the  Garden  (original  in  Apsley  House,  p.  335) ; 
•23.  CorreggiOy  'La  Madonna  della  Cesta*,  or  'La  Vierge  an  Panier'. 
.  •lO.  Correggio,  Mercury  instructing  Cupid  in  the  presence  of 
Venut,  of  the  master's  latest  period. 

This  picture  has  passed  through  the  hands  of  numerous  owners, 
chiefly  of  royal  blood.  It  vras  bought  by  Charles  I.  of  England  with  the 
rest  of  the  Duke  of  Mantua''s  collection  in  1630.  From  England  it  passed 
to  Spain,  Naples,  and  then  to  Vienna,  where  it  was  purchased  by  the 
Marquis  of  Londonderry,  who  sold  it  to  the  National  Gallery.  It  has 
suffered  considerable  damage  during  its  wanderings. 

Mr.  Rnskin,  who  describes  Correggio  as  *the  captain  of  the  painter*s 
art  as  such,  the  master  of  the  art  of  laying  colour  so  as  to  be  lovely* 
couples  this  picture  with  Titian^s  Bacchus  (p.  175),  as  one  of  the  two 
paintings  in  the  Gallery  he  would  last  part  with. 

753.  AUobello  Melone  (Cremona;  15th  cent.),  Christ  and  the 
Disciples  on  the  way  to  Emmaus;  no  number,  Solario^  Virgin  and 
Child  (on  loan);  *1144.  Sodoma,  Madonna  and  Child,  with  St.  Cath- 
arine of  Siena,  St.  Peter,  and  a  monk;  1201,  1200.  Macrino  d'AUba 
(ca.  1500),  Saints ;  Ambrogio  Borgognone,  779,  780.  Family  por- 
traits, painted  on  two  fragments  of  a  silken  standard,  attached  to 
wood,  1077.  Virgin  and  Child,  Agony  In  the  Garden,  Bearing  of  the 
Cross,  a  triptych,  one  of  the  master's  earlier  works;  806.  Boccaccio 
Boecaceino  (Cremona;  d.  1525),  Procession  to  Calvary;  298." 
Borgognone,  Marriage  of  St.  Catharine  of  Alexandria,  to  the  right 
St.  Catharine  of  Siena. 

Boom  V.  Schools  op  Fbrhara  and  Bologna.  To  the  left: 
Cosimo  Tttra  (Ferrara;  1420-95),  905.  Madonna,  773.  St.  Jerome  in 
the  wilderness,  772.  Madonna  and  Child,  with  angels ;  597.  Fr,  Cossa 
(end  of  16th  cent.),  St.  Vincent  Ferrer;  1234.  Do$so  Dossi  (?), 
Poet  andMuse(?);  82.  Mazzolino  da  F«jrrara  (1480-1528),  Holy 
Family ;  no  number,  Francia,  Bartolomeo  Bianchini,  the  poet  (on 
loan);  94.  Annibale  Caracci  (younger  brother  of  Lodovico,  and 
founder  along  with  him  of  the  Bolognese  Academy,  d.  1609), 
Bacchus  playing  to  Silenus,  quite  in  the  style  of  the  ancient  frescoes. 
—  *j-M§i  .^^•gQ^g  ^'  Giulio  Qrandi  (Ferrara;  d.  1531),   Madonna 


172  14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.     TheWeatEnd, 

enthroned,  with  John  the  Baptist  and  St.  William ;  the  throne  is 
adorned  with  sculptural  panels  (a  masterpiece).  —  *19i^  Ouido 
Reni  (d.  1642),  Youthful  Christ  embracing  St.  John,  averycharac- 
,teristic  work,  and  the  best  picture  by  Guide  in  this  collection; 
2083.  Loremo  Costa,  Battista  Fiera  of  Mantua ;  642.  Benvenuto 
TiaiOy  surnamed  Oarofalo  (d.  1659),  Agony  in  the  Garden;  93. 
Annibale  Caracci,  Silenus  gathering  grapes ;  214.  Ouido  Bent  (?), 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin;  Francesco  Francia(^Baibolini,  early  school 
of  Bologna,  also  a  goldsmith ;  d.  1517),  Portrait  (on  loan);  *671, 
^  Oarofalo,  Madonna  and  Child  enthroned,  surrounded  by  SS.  William, 
'  Clara,  Francis,  and  Anthony  (altar-piece,  destitute  of  the  charm  of 
colouring  seen  in  his  smaller  works) ;  75.  Domenico  Zampieri,  sur- 
named Domenichino,  Landscape,  wit£*St.  George  and  the  Dragon; 
271.  OmdoBeni,  EcceHomo.  —  170.  Oarofalo,  Holy  Family;  638. 
Francia,  Madonna  and  Child,  with  saints,  *180.  Piet^  (the  lunette 
of  No.  179,  see  below) ;  '629.  Lorenzo  Coata  (teacher  of  Franoia ; 
d.  1535),  Madonna  enthroned,  dated  1505 ;  22.  Oiovanni  Franceaeo 
Barbieri,  surnamed  Ouercino,  Angels  weeping  over  the  body  of 
Christ  (a  good  example  of  this  painter,  resembling  Carayaggio  in  the 
management  of  the  light,  and  recalling  the  picture  of  the  same 
subject  by  Van  Dyck  in  the  Antwerp  Museum) ;  770.  Oiovanni  Oriolo 

Serrara;  d.  after  1461),  Leonello  d'Este,  Marquis  of  Ferrara 
.  1450);  Ma%zolino,  1495.  Christ  disputing  with  the  doctors,  169. 
Holy  Family;  11.  Ouido  Reni,  St.  Jerome;  752.  Lippo  di  Dalmasio 
(end  of  the  14th  cent.)^  "Madonna  and  Child ;  *17§^  Franc.  Franda, 
Virgin  enthroned  and  St.  Anne  (this  and  No.  J80  are  the  finest  spe- 
cimens of  the  school  in  the  collection);  no  numBerJ  ErcoledeRoberti^ 
A  concert  (on  loan);  26.  Annibale  Caracci,  St.  John  in  the  wilderness. 
—  641.  Mazzolino,  The  Woman  taken  in  adultery;  ♦SI.  Oarofalo, 
Vision  of  St.  Augustine;  73.  Ercole  Orandi,  Conversion  of  Saint 
Paul;  640,  Dosso  Dossi  (Ferrara;  d.  1542),  Adoration  of  the  Magi; 
669.  L*Ortolano(^Oiov.  Battista  Benvermti,  of  Ferrara;  d.  ca.  1626), 
SS.  Sebastian,  Rochus,  and  Demetrius;  1062.  Ferrarese  School, 
Battle;  Ercole  d^  Roberti  (d.  1496),  1217.  Israelites  gathering 
manna,  1127.  Last  Supper,  1411.  Diptych;  690.  Marco  Zoppo 
(Bologna;  d.  after  1498),  Dead  Christ,  with  John  the  Baptist  and 
Joseph  of  Arimathea. 

Room  VI.  Umbbian  Sohool.  To  the  left :  Piero  della  Francesco 
(ca.  1460),  769.  St.  Michael  and  the  dragon,  908.  Nativity  (injured), 
758.  Portrait;  1051.  Bertucci,  Incredulity  of  St.  Thomas;  249. 
Lorenzo  da  San  Severino  (second  half  of  the  15th  cent.).  Marriage 
of  St.  Catharine;  58o.  Umbrim  School,  Portrait;  1843.  Benedetto 
Bonfigli  (ca.  1420  -  ca.  1496),  Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  1107.  NiccoU)  da 
Foligno  (^Alunno ;  end  of  the  15th  cent.).  The  Passion,  a  triptych; 
1103.  Fiorenzo  di  Lorenzo  (end  of  16th  cent.),  Madonna  and  saints 
(lucid  colouring).  —  910.  Ascribed  to  Signorelli  (more  probably  by 
Oenga  da  Urbino),  Triumph  of  Chastity,  a  fresco ;  702.  Umbrian 


The  West  End.     14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.  173 

School  J  Madonna  and  Child;  1104.  Oiannicola  Manni  (a  pupil  of 
Perogino;  d.  1644),  Annunciation;  693.  Bernardino  Pinturicchio 
(d.  1513),  St.  Catharine  of  Alexandria;  1441.  Pietro  Fannucct  (called 
PeruginOy  the  master  of  Baphael;  1446-1523),  Adoration  of  the 
Shepherds  (a  large  fresco);  912-914.  Pinturicchio (Vmbii&a  school- 
pieces),  Story  of  Griselda  (from  Boccaccio's  Decameron) ;  911.  Pintu- 
ricchio, Return  of  Ulysses ;  703.  Fioremto  diLorento  (not  Pinturicchio), 
Madonna  and  Child ;  1032.  Lo  Spagna  (Oiovanni  di  Pietro,  a  Spanis)! 
pupil  of  Perugino ;  d.  after  1530),  Agony  In  the  Garden ;  1812.  At- 
trihuted  to  Lo  Spagna,  Same  suhject.  —  1133.  Lujca  SignoreUi 
(d.  1523),  Adoration  of  the  Holy  Child  (school -piece?);  2118. 
Oiovanni  Francesco  da  Riminiy  Madonna  and  Child;  751.  Oiovanni 
Santi  (Umhrian  painter  and  poet,  Raphael's  father;  d.  1494),  Ma- 
donna; 1847.  Luca  Siqnorelli^  Coronation  of  the  Virgin;  Perugino, 
181.  Mad onnalCndUhild,  1431.  Baptism  of  our  Lord  (a  forgery  ac- 
cording to  Prof.  Bicci),  •288.  Madonna  adoring  the  Infant,  with  the 
archangel  Michael  on  thFIeft  and  Raphael  with  Tobias  on  the  right 
(a  masterpiece);  691.  Ascribed  to  Lo  Spagna,  Eoce  Homo. 

♦^13.  Eaphad  (Sansio ;  1483-1620),  Vision  of  a  knight  (a  youth- 
ful work,  as  fine  in  its  execution  as  it  is  tender  in  its  conception). 

This  little  gem  reveals  the  influence  of  Baphaers  early  master  Ti- 
moteo  Viti ,  without  a  trace  of  the  later  manner  learned  from  Perugino. 
The  original  *Oartoon  hangs  beneath. 

*Two  allegorical  female  figures,  representing  respectively  the  noble 
ambitions  and  the  joys  of  life,  appear  to  a  young  knight  lying  asleep 
beneath  a  laurel,  and  offer  him  his  choice  of  glory  or  pleasure\  —  Pnusavant. 

••1171,  Raphael,  Madonna  degli  Ansidei,  bought  from  the  Duke 
of  MarTborough  in  1886  for  70,000i.,  the  largest  sum  ever  given  ^ 
by  a  public  gallery  for  a  picture. 

This  Holy  Family  was  painted  by  Baphael  in  1606  for  the  ehapel  of 
the  Ansidei  family  in  the  Servite  church  at  Perugia.  In  1764  it  was 
purchased  by  Lord  Bobert  Spencer,  brother  of  the  third  Duke  of  Marl- 
Dorough.  The  two  figures  flanking  the  Virgin  are  those  of  John  the 
Baptist  and  St.  Ificholas  of  Bari,  the  latter  represented  in  his  epis- 
copal robes.  The  small  round  loaves  at  his  feet  refer  to  his  rescue  of 
the  town  of  Myra  from  famine.  In  the  background  is  a  view  of  the 
Tusean  hills.  From  the  canopy  hangs  a  rosary.  —  This  great  work,  the 
most  important  example  of  Baphael  in  the  country,  was  executed  under 
the  influence  of  Perugino  and  is  in  admirable  preservation. 

•168.  Baphael,  St.  Catharine  of  Alexandria,  painted  in  the 
master's  Florentine  period. 

^In  form  and  feeling  no  picture  of  the  master  approaches  nearer  to  it 
than  the  Entombment  in  the  Borghese  Palace,  which  is  inscribed  1007.' —  W, 

1776.  SignoreUi,  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds;  ^1075.  Perugino, 
Virgin  and  GhUd,  with  SS.  Jerome  and  Francis;  1220.  L'Ingegno 
{Andrea  di  Luigi;  ca.  1484),  Madonna  and  Child. 

•744.  Baphael,  Madonna,  Infant  Christ,  and  St.  John  (the  *Aldo- 
brandini'  or  *Qarvagh  Madonna*). 

^The  whole  has  a  delicate,  harmonious  effect.  The  flesh,  which  is 
yellowish  in  the  lights,  and  lightish  brown  in  the  shadows,  agrees  ex- 
tremely well  with  the  pale  broken  rose-colour  of  the  under  garment,  and 
the  delicate  bluish  grey  of  the  upper  garment  of  the  Virgin.     In  the 


174  14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.     The  West  End, 

seams  and  glories  gold  is  used,   though  very  delicately\  —    Waagen^ 
^Treasures  of  Art  in  Qreat  Britain\ 

This  work  belongs  to  Baphaers  later  period,  and  some  authorities  be- 
lieve he  painted  it  with  the  aid  of  his  pupils. 

.  No  nnmber,  Raphael,  Madonna^  Infant  Ohrigt,  and  saints,  known 
^  <as  the  Madonna  de  St.  Antoine  de  Padoue  or  the  'Grand  Raphael 
de  Oolonna'  (lent  by  Mr.  J.  Pier pont  Morgan);  929.  After  Raphael, 
Madonna  and  Child;  *2069.  Raphael^  The  Madonna  of  the  Tower; 
*1128.  SignoreUij  Circumcision,  a  dramatic  composition  (the  flgnre 
of  the  child  has  been  altered  by  repainting);  Unknown  Master 
(15th  cent.),  646.  St.  Catharine,  647.  St.  Ursula;  27.  Raphael,  Pope 
Julius  II.  (an  old  copy  of  the  original  in  Florence).  —  9.  Ann. 
Caracd  (?),  Christ  appearing  to  St.  Peter  after  his  Resurrection  (the 
difficulties  of  foreshortening  have  been  but  partly  overcome);  200. 
Sassoferrato  {Qiov,  Bait.  Salvi;  d.  1686),  Madonna  in  prayer  (crude 
in  colouring,  common  in  form,  and  lighted  for  effect),*-^—  29.  Baroccio 
{Federigo  Barocci,  a  follower  of  Correggio;  1628-1612),  Holy  Family 
(*La  Madonna  del  Gatto',  so  called  from  the  cat  introduced). 

'The  chief  intention  of  the  picture  is  John  the  Baptist  as  a  child, 
who  teases  a  cat  by  showing  her  a  bullfinch  which  he  holds  in  his  hand. 
The  Virgin,  Christ,  and  Joseph  seem  much  amused  by  this  cruel  sport.'  —  W. 

174.  Carlo  Afaratia (Roman  painter;  d.  1713),  Portrait  of  Cardinal 
Cerri ;  69.  Pietro  Franc,  Mola  (d.  1668),  St.  John  in  the  wilderness. 
—  740.  Sassoferrato,  Madonna  and  Child. 

The  composition  is  not  by  Sassoferrato,  but  is  from  an  earlier  etching 
by  Cav.  Ventura  Salembeni  (d.  1613).    See  Catalogue. 

138.  Panini  (Roman  school;  d.  1768),  Ancient  ruins;  1092. 
^  Zaganelli  (Bernardino  da  Cotignola;  ca.  1506-27),  Martyrdom  of  St. 
v>^'^^Btephett^232.  Umbrian  Master  (;pio\)iblY  Bertticei  of  Faenza^  belong- 
ing to  the  Eclectic  School),  Madonna  and  Child  enthroned;  Justus 
van  Oent  (?  here  ascribed  to  Melozso  da  Forli),  766.  Music,  765  (farther 
on).  Rhetoric  (similar  representations  in  Berlin) ;  596.  Marco  Pal- 
mezzano  (pupil  of  Melozzo;  d.  after  1537),  Entombment;  624.  As- 
cribed to  Oiulio  Romano  (Roman  School,  pupil  of  Raphael;  d.  1646), 
Infancy  of  Jupiter;  666.  Piero  delta  Franeesca,  Baptism  of  Christ. 

Boom  yn.  Ybnbtian.  AND  Bbbsoian  Schools.  To  the  left :  no 
number,  Venetian  School  (16th  cent.).  Portrait  of  a  youth  (on  loan); 
269.  Oiorgione  [Qiorgio  Barbarelli,  a  fellow-pupil  of  Titian  under 
Giov.Bellini;  d.l611).  Knight  in  armour;  iS77.Oiov.Gir.  Savoldo 
(Bre8cia;aboutl480-1628), Adoration ofthe Shepherds; 234.  Catena 
(Treviso,  d.  1631  at  Venice ;  a  follower  of  Giov.  Bellini),  Warrior 
adoring  the  Infant  Christ;  1121.  Venetian  School,  Young  Man; 
1173.  School  of  Oiorgione,  Unknown  subject;  287.  Bart.Veneziano 
(rare  Venetian  master,  first  half  of  the  16th  cent.),  Portrait,  painted 
in  1530  (rich  in  colour) ;  no  number,  Sehastiano  del  Piomho,  Daughter 
of  Herodias  (on  loan) ;  School  of  Oiorgione,  930.  The  Garden  of  Love, 
1123.  Venus  and  Adonis;  1160.  Oiorgione,  Adoration  of  the  Magi; 
1695.  Venetian  School,  Landscape  with  nymphs  and  shepherds;  no 


The  West  End.     14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.  175 

number,  Canani,  Italian  nobleman  (on  loan") ;  1416.  Afa«»oto,Virgin 
and  Child  ^Ith  two  saints. 

y70,  Titian  (Tiziano  Vecellio;  1477-1576),  Christ  and  Mary 
Magdalen  after  the  Resurrection  (^Noll  me  tangere'). 

A  youthful  work  of  the  master.  The  slenderness  of  the  figures,  which 
are  conceived  in  a  dignified  but  somewhat  mundane  spirit,  and  the  style 
of  the  landscape  reveal  the  influence  of  Giorgione. 

1202.  Bonifazio  Veronese  (d.  1640),  Madonna  and  Child,  with 
saints.  — S^Titian^  Holy  Family,  with  adoring  shepherd.  >^ 

This  brilliantly  coloured  picture  is  an  early  work  of  the  master  and 
is  painted  in  the  manner  afterwards  adopted  by  his  pupil  PalmaVecchio. 

•1944.  Titian,  Portrait  of  Ariosto,  acquired  in  1904  for  30,000i.  J  i 
596.  Venetian  School,  Portrait;    41.    Oiov.  Cariani  (?),    Death  of 
St,  Peter  Martyr.  —  *35.  Titian,  Bacchus  and  Ariadne,  painted  in^. 
1514  for  Alphonso,  ituke'of  Ferrara. 

*Thi8  is  one  T>f  the  pictures  which  once  seen  can  never  be  forgotten 
....  Bich  harmony  of  drapery  tints  and  soft  modelling,  depth  of  shade 
and  warm  flesh  all  combine  to  produce  a  highly  coloured  glow ;  yet  in 
the  midst  of  this  glow  the  form  of  Ariadne  seems  incomparably  fair. 
Nature  was  never  reproduced  more  kindly  or  with  greater  exuberance 
than  it  is  in  every  part  of  this  picture.  What  splendour  in  the  contrasts 
of  colour,  what  wealth  and  diversity  of  scale  in  air  and  vegetation  •,  how 
infinite  is  the  space  —  how  varied  yet  mellow  the  gradations  of  light 
and  shade!'  —  C.  A  €. 

636.  Titian,  Portrait  of  a  poet  j  1309.  Bernardino  Lidnio  (Venice; 
flor.  1524-41),  Portrait  of  a  young  man;  Titian,  2^^.  The  Tribute 
Money  (school-piece),  •636.  Madonna  and  Child,  with  SS.  John  the 
Baptist  and  Catharine  (the  latter  probably  the  portrait  of  an  aristo-> 
cratlclady);  1025.  Moretto{Alessandro  Bonvicino,  the  greatest  painter 
of  Brescia;  1498-1565),  Italian  nobleman  (1626). 

H^ebastian  del  Piomfto  (of  Venice,  follower  of  Michael  Angelo  j 
d.  1547),  Raising  of  Lazarus. 

^The  transition  from  death  to  life  is  expressed  in  Lazarus  with  won*  \ 
derful  spirit,  and  at  the  same  time  with  perfect  fidelity  to  Scripture. 
The  grave-clothes,  by  which  his  face  is  thrown  into  deep  shade,  vividly 
excite  the  idea  of  the  night  of  the  grave,  which  but  just  before  enveloped 
him;  the  eye  looking  eagerly  from  beneath  this  shade  upon  Christ,  his 
Redeemer,  shows  us,  on  the  other  hand,  in  the  most  striking  contrast, 
the  new  life  in  its  most  intellectual  organ.  This  is  also  expressed  in  the 
whole  figure ,  which  is  actively  striving  to  relieve  itself  from  the  bonds 
in  which  it  was  fast  bound'.  —  W. 

The  picture  was  painted  in  1517-19  in  competition  with  Raphael's  Trans- 
figuration.   The  figure  of  Lazarus  is  quite  in  the  spirit  of  Michael  Angelo. 

1041.  Paolo  Veronese  (?),  St.  Helena;  Sebastian  del  Piombo,  20. 
Portraits  of  the  painter,  with  his  seal  (*piombo')  of  office  in  his  hand, 
and  Cardinal  Ippolito  de' Medici,  painted  after  1531,  *1460.  Holy 
Family,  24.  Portrait  of  a  lady  as  St.  Agatha;  277.  Bassano  [Jacopo 
da  Ponte,  Venetian  painter  of  the  late  Renaissance ;  1510-92), 
Good  Samaritan;  3.  School  of  Titian,  Concert;  34.  Titian,  Venus 
and  Adonis  (an  early  copy  of  the  original  In  Madrid);  1031.  Savoldo, 
Mary  Magdalen  at  the  Sepulchre ;  173.  Jac,  Bassano,  Portrait  of  a 
nobleman;  32.  School  of  Titian,   Rape  of  Ganymede.  —  1313, 


176  14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.     TU  West  End. 

Tintoretto  (Jaeopo  Robusti^  Venice;  d.  1694),  Origin  of  the  Milky 
Way  (ceiling-decoration). 

Jupiter,  descending  tbrougli  the  air,  hears  the  fnfant  Hercules  towards 
Juno,  while  the  milk  escaping  from  the  hreasts  of  the  goddess  resolyes 
itself  into  the  constellation  known  as  the  Via  Lactea  or  Milky  Way. 

•16.  Tintoretto,  St  (Jeorge  and  the  Dragon  (an  early  work); 
2094.  Oiambattista  Moroni  (portrait-painter  at  Bergamo,  pupil  of 
Moretto;  d.  1678),  II  Cavaliere;  623.  Oirolamo  da  Treviso  (a  fol- 
lower of  Raphael;  d.  1644),  Madonna  and  Child  (mentioned  by 
Vasari  as  the  painter's  masterpiece);  •1047.  Lorenzo  Lotto  (1480- 
1655),  Family  group;  1845.  Pari*  Bordone  (TreyiBO,  celebrated  for 
his  female  portraits;  ITTS^O),  Light  of  the  world;  •1316.  Qiam- 
battitta  Moroniy  Portrait  of  an  Italian  nobleman ;  >*297.«. II  Bomanino 
(Oirolamo  Romani,  Brescia,  a  rival  of  Moretto;  d^  1666),  Nativity 
(an  altar-piece  in  five  compartments).  —  Moretto,  2091.  Angel, 
2092.  St.  Joseph,  •625.  Madonna  and  Child,  with  saints,  2090. 
Angel,  2093.  St.  Jerome,  1165.  Virgin  and  Child,  with  saints;  931. 
Paolo  Veronese  (Ccdiari;  1528-88),  Mary  Magdalen  laying  aside  her 
jewels;  2096.  II  Romanino,  The  man  with  a  beard;  Moroni,  •1022. 
Nobleman,  1023.  Portrait  of  a  lady,  j,024^  An  ecclesiastic,  J^JJ* 
Portrait  of  a  tailor  ('Tagliapanni'),  a  masterpiece  praised  by  con- 
temporary poets ;  228.  Jocopo  Bassano,  Christ  expelling  the  money- 
changers from  the  Temple;  674.  Paris  Bordone,  A  lady  of  Genoa; 
•299.  Moretto,  Italian  nobleman;  742.  Moroni^  Portrait  ofaUwyerj 
1105.  Lotto,  The  apostolic  prothonot'ary  Juliano ;  ^SY.^ar iTSorSonc, 
Daphnis  and  Chloe;  1052.  Milanese  School,  Portrait  of  a  young  man ; 
♦748.  Oirolamo  dai  Libn  (Verona;  d.  1556),  Madonna  and  Child, 
with  St.  Anne,  clear  in  colour  and  harmonious  in  tone,  heralding 
the  style  of  Paolo  Veronese ;  699.  Lotto,  Portraits  of  Agostino  and 
NicGold  della  Torre  (1616);  Paolo  Morando  {Cavazxola,  the  most 
important  master  in  Verona  before  Paolo  Veronese;  1486-1622), 
•777.  Madonna  and  Child,  with  John  the  Baptist  and  an  angel,  a 
masterpiece  of  this  'Raphael  of  Verona',  *735.  St,  Rochus  with  the 
angel,  an  excellent  specimen  of  his  work.  —  1409.  Cordelle  Agii 
(Andrea  Cordegliaghi,  pupil  of  Giov.  Bellini),  Marriage  of  St.Catharine ; 
Oiovanrd  BeUini,  often  shortened  into  OiambeUino  (ca.  1428-1616 ; 
the  greatest  Venetian  painter  of  the  15th  cent.,  described  by  Mr. 
Ruskin  as  Hhe  mighty  Venetian  master  who  alone  of  all  the  painters 
of  Italy  united  purity  of  religious  aim  with  perfection  of  artistical 
power'),  •726.  Christ  In  Gethsemane,  an  early  work  revealing  the 
influence  of  Mantegna,  who  has  treated  the  same  subject  (comp. 
No,  1417,  p,  177),  ♦280,  Madonna  of  the  Pomegranate;  no  number, 
Andrea  Ptevitali,  Salvator  Mundi  (on  loan) ;  749.  Niccolo  Oiolfino^ 
Portraits  of  the  Giusti  family,  of  Verona;  812.  Oiov,  Bellini,  Death 
of  St.  Peter  Martyr  (a  late  work). 

*i£&^  Oiov.  Bellini,  The  Doge  Leonardo  Loredano. 

This  masterly  portrait  is  remarkable  alike  for  its  drawing,  its  colour^ 
ing,  and  its  expression  of  character.    Loredano,  who  held  office  from  1501 


TheWestEnd.     14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.  177 

io  1521f  was  one  of  the  most  powerful  of  the  Venetian  Doges.  His  face 
is  that  of  a  bora  ruler  —  ^fearless,  faithfal,  patient,  impenetrable,  im- 
placable —  every  word  a  fate'  (Rutiin). 

1213.  OentiU  BcUini  (d.  1507),  Portrait  of  a  mathematician; 
750.  La%%aro  Ba«t/oni  (Venice,  d.  1512;  master  of  Vittore  Carpaccio, 
to  whom  this  painting  was  formerly  ascribed),  Madonna  and  Child, 
with  the  Doge  Giovanni  Mocenigo  in  adoration;  1418.  AnioneUo 
da  Messina  (said  to  haye  imported  painting  in  oil  from  Flanders 
into  Italy;  d.  after  1493),  St  Jerome.  —  673.  Ant.  da  Messina^ 
Salvator  Mundi  (1465). 

*The  earliest  of  his  pictures  which  we  now  possess.  It  is  a  solemn 
but  not  an  elevated  mask ;  half  Flemish,  half  Italian".  —  C.  4^  C 

1233.  Oiov,  BeUiniy  The  Blood  of  the  Redeemer;  Antonello 
da  Messina,  1166.  Gmciflxion  (in  a  monntainons  landscape),  1141. 
Portrait  of  a  yonng  man  (painted  in  1474);  Oiov,  Bellini,  ^1440. 
St.  Dominic,  808.  St.  Peter  Martyr  (with  very  delicate  gradations 
in  the  flesh-tones),  1455.  Circumcision,  599.  Madonna  and  Child; 
695.  Andrea  Previtali  (d.  1528),  Monk  adoring  the  Holy  Child; 
778.  Martina  da  Udine,  snmamed  Pellegrino  da  8anDaniele(VTiul\, 
pnpil  of  Bellini;  d.  1547),  Madonna  and  Child;  •300.  Cima  da 
Conc^Wano  (Venice;  contemporary  of  Bellini ;  d.  1517),  Madonna 
and  Child;  694.  Catena,  St.  Jerome  in  his  study;  Cima  da  Con- 
egliano,  1120.  St.  Jerome  in  the  wilderness  (on  panel),  634.  Ma- 
donna and  Child,  816.  Christ  appearing  to  St.  Thomas,  1310.  Ecce 
Homo;  ^281.  Marco  Basaiti  (Venetian  School;  ca.  1520),  St.  Je- 
rome reading. 

Boom  Vm.  Paduan  and  Eably  Venetian  Schools.  To  the  left : 
1336.  LiberaU  da  Fefono(?),  Death  of  Dido;  1145.  Andrea  Mantegna 
(d.  1506;  School  of  Padua),  Samson  and  Delilah  (on  the  tree  is 
the  motto  ^foemina  diabolo  trihus  assibus  est  mala  peior');  Carlo 
Crivelli  (ca.  1468-93),  907.  SS.  Catharine  and  Mary  Magdalen, 
602.  Dead  Christ  supported  by  angels.  —  776.  Vittore  Pisano  of 
Verona,  often  called  Vittore  PisaneUo  (founder  of  the  Veronese  school, 
painter  and  medallist ;  d.  1451),  SS.  Anthony  and  George,  with  a 
vision  of  the  Virgin  and  Child. 

In  the  frame  are  inserted  casts  of  two  of  Pisano's  medals.  The  one  above 
represents  Leonello  d'Este,  his  patron;  the  other,  the  painter  himself. 

804.  Marco  MarziaU  (Venetian  painter;  flor.  ca.  1492-1507), 
Virgin  and  ChUd;  •1436.  Vitt,  Pisano,  Vision  of  St.  Eustace;  1417. 
Andrea  Mantegna,  The  Agony  in  the  Qarden,  an  early  work,  from 
the  Northhrook  GaUery  (comp.  No.  726,  p.  176,  hy  Bellini);  807. 
CriveUi,  Madonna  and  Child  enthroned;  •274.  A.  Mantegna,  Virgin 
and  Child  with  the  Baptist  and  the  Magdalen  (conscientiously  minute 
in  execution  and  of  plastic  distinctness  in  the  outlines);  803. 
MarziaU,  Circumcision  (1500). 

•902.  Andrea  Mantegna,  Triumph  of  Scipio,  or  the  reception 
of  the  Phrygian  mother  of  the  gods  (Cybele)  among  the  publicly 
recognized  divinities  of  Borne. 

Basi>kkxb*8  London.  15th  Edit.  12 


178  14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.     TheWestEnd. 

In  obedience  to  the  Delphic  oracle,  the  ^worthiest  man  in  Rome^  was 
selected  to  receive  the  goddess,  and  the  choice  fell  npon  Pablins  Gome- 
lias  Scipio  Nasica  (B.C.  204).  The  picture  was  painted  for  a  Venetian 
nobleman,  Francesco  Gornaro,  whose  family  claimed  to  be  descended  from 
the  Roman  ffens  Cornelia.  It  was  finished  in  1506,  a  few  months  before 
the  painter's  death,  and  is  *a  tempera%  in  chiaroscuro.  It  is  not  so  im- 
portant a  work  of  Mantegna  as  the  series  at  Hampton  Gonrt  (p.  409),  but 
also  exhibits  Mantegna^s  wonderful  feeling  for  the  antique  and  his  share 
in  Hhat  sincere  passion  for  the  ancient  world  which  was  the  dominating 
intellectual  impulse  of  his  age.' 

668.  Crivelli,  The  Beato  Ferretti.  — •  906.  CriveUi,  Madonna  in 
ecstasy. 

*724.  Carlo  Crivelliy  Madonna  and  C&ild,  with  saints. 

This  picture  is  known,  from  the  swallow  introduced,  as  the  ^Madonna 
della  rondine\  *It  may  be  said  of  the  predella,  which  represents  St.  Gatharine, 
St.  Jerome  in  the  wilderness,  the  Nativity  of  our  Lord,  the  Martyrdom 
of  St.  Sebastian,  and  St.  George  and  the  Dragon,  that  Grivelli  never  con- 
centrated so  much  power  on  any  small  composition\  —  C.  A  C. 

OriveUi^  788.  Madonna  and  saints  (large  altar-piece  in  13  sections, 
painted  in  1476;),  739.  Annunciation,  dated  1486.  —  1125.  Ascribed 
to  Mantegna^  Two  allegorical  flgnres  of  the  Seasons,  in  grisaille; 
904.  Gregorio  Schiavone  (the  'Slavonian',  a  native  of  Dalmatia; 
ca.  1470),  Madonna  and  Child. 

Octagonal  Hall.  Yabiovs  Schools.  In  the  angles  of  the  oc- 
tagon (above):  Paolo  Veronese,  1324.  Scorn,  1325.  Respect,  1326. 
Hap)py  Union,  1318.  Unfaithfulness,  a  series  of  allegorical  ceiling- 
paintings.  To  the  left  (on  entering  from  R.  VIII):  1696.  BeUini, 
Madonna  and  Child;  1417a.  Italian  School  (16th  cent.),  Illuminated 
initial  letter  (copied  from  No.  1417,  p.  177);  1134.  LtfteraZe  da  y«rono 
(1451-1535),  Madonna  and  Child ;  2095.  Alvise  Vivarini^d.  1503),  The 
man  in  black;  1478.  Oiovanni  Mansuetiy  Symholical  representation 
of  the  Crucifixion;  802.  Bart,  Montagna  (d.  1523),  Madonna  and 
Child;  631.  Francesco  Bissolo  (?  d.  ca.  1530),  Portrait;  no  number, 
Cariani,  Madonna  and  Child  (on  loan);  1136,  1135  (farther  on), 
Veronese  School  (15th  cent.),  Legend  of  Trajan  and  the  widow.  — 
286.  Francesco  Tacconi  (Cremona;  d.  after  1490),  Virgin  and  Child 
enthroned  (the  only  signed  work  of  this  master  extant);  285. 
Francesco  Morone  (early  Veronese  painter;  d.  1529),  Madonna  and 
Child ;  1212, 1211  (farther  on),  Domenico  Aforonc (Veronese  School; 
b.  1442),  Tournament  scenes;  1476.  Andrea  MeldoUa,  surnamed 
Schiavone  (1522-82),  Jupiter  and  Semele;  1214.  Michele  daVerona^ 
Meeting^of  Coriolanus  withVolumnia  and  Veturia;  1300.  Milanese 
School^  Virgin  and  Child ;  1953.  Lazzaro  Bastiani^Yiigin  and  Child ; 
1466.  Lelio  Orsi  (1511-86),  The  road  to  Emmaus.  —  768.  Antonio 
Vivarini  (d.  ca.  1470),  SS.  Peter  and  Jerome;  1098.  Bart,  Montagna, 
Madonna  and  Child;  284.  Bartolomeo  Vivarini  (Venice ;  end  of  the 
15th  cent.).  Virgin  and  Child  with  SS.  Paul  and  Jerome;  1872. 
Alvise  Vivarinif  Madonna  and  Child ;  1284.  Antonio  Vivarini,  SS. 
Francis  and  Mark.  —  632.  Oirolamo  da  Santacroce  (flor.  1520-49), 
Saint;  692.  Lodovico  da  Parma  (?;  early  16th  cent.),  Head  of  a  monk; 


TheWettEnd,     14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.  179 

Franc.  Mantegna  (son  of  Andrea;  d.  after  1517),  HOG.  Resurrection, 
1381.  The  Holy  "Women  at  tlie  Sepulchre;  630.  Oregorio  Schiavoncj 
Madonna  and  Child  enthroned,  with  saints  (altar-piece) ;  771.  Bono 
da  Ferrara  (flor.  1460),  St.  Jerome;  639.  Franc.  MantegrhGy  Christ 
and  Mary  Magdalen  in  the  Garden ;  633.  Oirolamo  da  Santaeroce^ 
Saint;  736.  Francesco  Bonaignori  (1456-1519),  Venetian  senator. 

Boom  IX,  adjoining  Room  YIL  Later  Italian  School.  What 
is  known  as  the  Eclectic  or  Academic  School  of  Painters  arose  in 
Italy  with  the  foundation  of  a  large  academy  at  Bologna  by  the 
Caracci  in  1589.  Its  aim  was  to  combine  the  peculiar  excellences 
of  the  earli^T  masters  with  a  closer  study  of  nature.  The  best  re- 
presentatives of  the  school  are  grouped  together  in  this  room,  which 
also  contains  examples  of  the  later  Venetian  masters. 

To  the  left:  88.  Annibale  Caracci,  Ermlnia  taking  refuge  with 
the  shepherds  (Tasso);  Canaletto  (^ArUonio  Canale,  of  Venice; 
d.  1768),  938.  Regatta  on  the  Canal  Grande,  Venice,  941.  Grimani 
Palace, Venice,  939.  Piazzetta  of  St.  Mark;  Francesco  Guardi  (archi- 
tectural and  landscape  painter,  closely  allied  to  Canaletto;  d.  1793), 
1054.  View  in  Venice,  1454.  Gondola;  28.  Lodovico  Caracci 
(d.  1619),  Susannah  and  the  Elders;  63.  Ann.  Caracci^  Landscape; 
1059.  Canaletto,  San  Pietro  in  Castello,  Venice;  2099.  Francesco 
Quardi,  The  Doges'  Palace,  Venice;  2101.  Sebastiano  Ricci,  Esther 
at  the  throne  of  Ahasuerus ;  Pietro  Longki  (Venetian  genre-painter, 
sometimes  called  the  Italian  Hogarth;  1702-62),  1101.  Masked 
visitors  at  a  menagerie,  1100.  Domestic  group,  1334.  Fortune-teller; 
*268.  Paolo  Veronese,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  painted  in  1573  for 
the  church  of  St.  Sylvester  at  Venice.  —  •56.  AnrUbale  Caracci, 
Landscape  with  figures. 

'Under  the  influence  of  Titian's  landscapes  and  of  Paul  Bril,  'who  vvas 
so  justly  esteemed  by  him,  Annibale  acquired  that  grandeur  of  composition, 
and  beiuty  of  outlines,  which  had  so  great  an  influence  upon  Claude  and 
Oaspar  Poussin\  —  W. 

198.  Ann.  Caracci,  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony,  unattractive; 
i429.  Canaletto,  Interior  of  the  Rotunda  at  Ranelagh  (p.  367), 
painted  in  1754;  2098.  Fr.  Guardi,  Santa  Maria  della  Salute,Venice ; 
1192,  1193.  Tiepolo,  Sketches  for  altar-pieces;  48.  Domenichino 
(Domenico  Zampieri;  d.  1641),  Tobias  and  the  angel;  33.  Parmi- 
gianino  {Francefco  Maria  Maxzola;  d.  1640),  Vision  of  St.  Jerome ; 
1206.  SalvatorRosa  (Neapolitan  landscape-painter;  d.  1673),  Land- 
scape; 940.  Canaletto,  Doges'  Palace;  210.  Ouardi,  Piazza  of  St.  Mark, 
Venice.  —  .'^4.  Paolo  Veronese,  Family  of  Darius  at  the  feet  of 
Alexander  theSTeat,  bought  for  13,650Z. 

'In  excellent  condition ;  perhaps  the  only  existing  criterion  by  which 
to  estimate  the  genuine  original  colouring  of  Panl  Veronese.  It  is  re- 
markable how  entirely  the  genius  of  the  painter  precludes  criticism  on 
the  quaintness  of  the  treatment.  Both  the  incident  and  the  personages 
are,  as  in  a  Spanish  play,  romantically  travestied'.  —  Rumohr  (MS.  notes). 

Mr.  Buskin  calls  this  picture  Hhe  most  precious  Paul  Veronese  in  the  i 
world^  . .  •    'The  possession  of  the  Pisani  Veronese  will  happily  enable  the 

12* 


180  14.  NATIONAL  GALLEBY.     TheWeHEnd, 

English  pablic  and  the  English  artist  to  convince  themselves  how  sincerity 
and  simplicity  in  statements  of  fact,  power  of  draughtmanship ,  and  joy  in 
colour  were  associated  in  a  perfect  balance  in  the  great  workmen  in  Venice\ 

935.  8alv,  Rosa^  River-  scene ;  135.  Canaleiio,  Landscape  with 
ruins. 

♦942.  CanalettOj  Eton  College  in  1746,  with  the  Thames  in  the 
foreground . 

This  picture  was  painted  daring  the  artistes  visit  to  England  in 
1746-48,  perhaps,  as  Mr.  Cook  points  out,  in  the  same  year  (1747)  as  Gray 
published  his  well-known  'Ode  on  a  distant  Prospect  of  Eton  College". 

26.  Paolo  Veronese^  Consecration  of  St.  Nicholas;  196.  Guido 
Renij  Susannah  and  the  Elders  (^a  work',  says  Mr.  Ruskin,  'devoid 
alike  of  art  and  decency');  127.  Canaletto,  View  of  the  Scuola  della 
Caritlt,  now  the  Accademia  delle  Belle  Arti,  Venice.  —  193.  gmdo 
Reniy  Lot  and  his  daughters;  163.  Canaletto,  Grand  Canai, Venice; 
70.  Padovanino  (^AUssandro  Varotari^  of  Venice ;  d.  1650),  Cornelia 
and  her  children  (children  were  this  artist's  favourite  subject); 
936.  Ferdinando  Bihiena  (Bologna;  1657-1743),  Performance  of 
Othello  in  the  Teatro  Farnese  at  Parma;  Oiov,  Bait.  Tiepolo,  1333. 
Deposition  from  the  Cross,  2100.  Marriage  of  the  Emperor  Frederick ; 
77.  DomenichinOj  Stoning  of  St.  Stephen;  •84.  Salv.  Rosa^  Mercury 
and  the  woodman.  —  937.  CanaUtto^  Scuola  di  San  Rocco,  Venice 
(figures  by  Q.  B.  Tiepolo), 

The  picture  represents  Hhe  ceremony  of  Giovedi  Santo  or  Maundy 
Thursday,  when  the  Doge  and  ofticers  of  state  with  the  fraternity  of  St.  Bock 
went  in  procession  to  the  church  of  St.  Mark  to  worship  the  miraculous 
blood\  —  Catalogue. 

Soom  X.  Dutch  School.  This  room  contains  good  examples 
of  Rembrandt,  the  great  Dutch  contemporary  of  Rubens  and  Van 
Dyck,  principally  of  his  later  period.  His  pupil,  Nicolas  Maas  or 
Maes,  and  his  contemporaries  of  the  17th  cent,  are  also  well  re- 
presented.  Many  of  the  paintings  belong  to  the  Peel  Collection. 

To  the  left :  A.  van  der  Neer  (1603-77;  Amsterdam),  239.  River 
by  moonlight,  969.  Frost-scene;  Rembrandt  van  Ryn  (^Harmenszot 
Hermanszoon^  Amsterdam ;  1607-69),  43.  Descent  from  the  Cross, 
♦47.  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds  (1646);  2062.  Herman  Saftleven, 
Christ  teaching  from  St.  Peter's  ship;  1168.  Van  der  Vliei  (Delft; 
d.  1642),  Portrait  of  a  Jesuit;  ♦775.  Rembrandt,  Old  lady  (1634). 

♦45.  Rembrandt,  The  Woman  taken  in  adultery,  dated  1644. 

'The  colouring  of  the  'Woman  taken  in  adultery^  is  in  admirable 
keeping.  A  subdued  light,  an  indescribable  kind  of  glow,  illumines  the 
whole  work,  and  pervades  it  with  a  mysterious  harmony.  The  idea  of 
the  work  is  most  effectively  enhanced  by  the  magic  of  chiaroscuro .... 
The  different  lights,  the  strongest  of  which  is  thrown  on  the  yellow  robe 
of  the  woman,  on  the  group  on  the  stairs,  and  on  the  gilded  altar,  are 
united  by  means  of  very  skilful  shading.  The  whole  of  the  background 
is  bathed  in  dark'but  warm  shades\  —   Vosmaer. 

1701.  A.  van  Everdingen,  Landscape;  1896.  P.  Saenredam, 
Church-interior;  1288.  A.  van  der  Neer,  Frost-scene;  •1277.  Nicolas 
Maes  or  Afaa«  (1632-93 ;  figure-painter  atDort,a  pupil  of  Rembrandt), 
Portrait  (dated  1666);  1312.  Jan  Victors  or  Victoors  (b.  at  Amster- 


The  West  End,     14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.  181 

dam  in  1620),  Village  cobbler;  1293.  J.  Af.  Molenaer  (d.  1668), 
Maslcal  party;  1008.  Pi«««r  Pott«r  (? ;  fath  er  of  Paul  Potter ;  d.  1662), 
Stag-hunt;  837.  Lingelbaeh,  The  Hay  Harvest;  1700.  Ihitch  School, 
Portrait. 

♦672.  Rembrandt,  His  own  portrait  (1640). 

^If  Rembrandt  has  often  ebosen  to  represent  himself  in  more  or  less 
eccentrie  costumes,  he  has  here  preferred  to  pose  as  a  man  of  qnlet  and 
dignified  simplicity ....  The  portrait  is  admirable  in  design  and  tone. 
A  delicate  and  warm  light  shines  from  above  on  part  of  the  forehead, 
cheek ,  and  nose ,  and  imparts  a  golden  hue  to  the  shirt  collar,  while  a 
stray  beam  brings  the  hand  into  like  prominence.  The  execution  is  ex- 
cellent, the  effect  of  light  delicate  and  yigorous".  —  Vosma§r. 

732.  A,  van  der  Neer,  Canal  scene  (daylight  scenes  and  can- 
vases of  so  large  a  size  as  this  were  rarely  executed  byYan  der  Neer) ; 
829.  Jan  Hackaert  (Amsterdam;  17th  cent.).  Stag-hunt;  1012. 
Matthew  Merian  (b.  at  Bdle  in  1621,  d.  1687;  painted  portraits  at 
Nuremberg  and  Frankfort),  Portrait;  51.  Rembrandt,  Jewish 
merchant;  152.  Van  der  Netr,  Evening- scene,  with  figures  and 
cattle  by  Cuyp,  whose  name  is  inscribed  on  the  pail;  1311.  Jan 
Beerstraaten  (1622-66),  Winter-scene;  1352.  Frid.  de  Moucheron 
(d.  1686),  Landscape  with  ruins. 

Rembrandt,  ♦1674.  Burgomaster;  ♦I 675  (farther on),  Portrait  of 
an  old  lady. 

These  two  fine  portraits  were  purchased  from  Lord  de  Sanmarez  in 
1899  for  16,0501.    The  former  seems  to  be  in  the  nature  of  a  study. 

♦1172.  Sir  Anthony  van  Dyck  (1599-1641),  Charles  I.  mounted 
on  a  dun  horse  and  attended  by  Sir  Thomas  Morton. 

This  fine  specimen  of  Van  Dyck  was  acquired  at  the  sale  of  the 
Blenheim  Collection  in  1885  for  17,500/.  It  was  originally  in  Somerset 
House  and  was  sold  by  Cromwell  for  150;.  The  great  Duke  of  Marl- 
borough discovered  and  bought  it  at  Munich.  —  When  the  other  Flemish 
paintings  were  removed  from  this  room  in  1907,  this  work  was  left  un- 
disturbed on  account  of  its  size. 

842.  Fred,  de  Moucheron,  Garden  scene,  bounded  by  trees ;  974. 
Phil,  de  Koninck  (pupil  of  Rembrandt;  d.  1688),  Hilly  wooded 
landscape,  with  a  view  of  the  Scheldt  and  Antwerp  Cathedral; 
J.  vanRuysdael  (Haarlem ;  1628-82),  854.  Forest-scene,  855.  Land- 
scape with  a  waterfall ;  190.  Rembrandt,  Jewish  Rabbi ;  ♦836.  Phil, 
de  Koninck^  Landscape,  figures  by  A.  van  de  Velde;  J,  van  Ruysdael, 
986.  The  water-mills,  737.  Landscape  with  waterfall ;  221.  Rem- 
brandt, The  artist  at  an  advanced  age;  ♦995.  Meinderi  Hobbema 
(Amsterdam;  pupil  of  Ruysdael;  1638-1709),  Forest-landscape,  of 
peculiarly  clear  chiaroscuro;  956.  Jan  Both  (Utrecht,  painter  of 
Italian  landscapes  in  the  style  of  Claude;  d.  1652),  Italian  scene; 
1137.  Jac,  van  Oost  (d.  1671),  Portrait  of  a  boy. 

♦243.  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  a  man,  dated  1659. 

^This  picture  is  one  of  those  darkly  coloured  pieces  which  Rembrandt 
meant  to  be  strongly  lighted.  The  head  alone  is  in  the  full  light,  the  hands 
are  in  the  half-light  only.  The  most  conspicuous  colours  are  vivid  brown 
and  red.  The  features,  with  the  grey  beard  and  moustache,  though  heavily 
painted,  are  well  defined,  and  look  almost  as  if  chiselled  by  the  brush, 
while  the  effect  is  enhanced  by  the  greenish  tint  of  the  colouring.    The 


182  14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.     TheWestEnd. 

face,  and  the  dark  eyes  in  particular,  are  fall  of  animation.  The 
whole  work  is  indeed  a  marvel  of  colouring,  expression,  and  poetry'.  — 
Vosmaer. 

1397.  J.  van  Aacken  (17th  cent.),  Old  woman  sewing;  72, 
Rembrandt^  Landscape  (Tobias  and  the  angel).  —  289.  Oerrit  Lundens 
(1622-77;  Amsterdam),  Amsterdam  Musketeers. 

^This  picture,  although  but  a  greatly  reduced  copy  of  the  renowned 
work  by  Rembrandt  in  the  State  Museum  at  Amsterdam,  has  a  unique 
interest  as  representing  the  pristine  condition  of  its  great  original  before 
it  was  mutilated  on  all  four  sides  and  shorn  of  some  of  its  figures  .... 
in  order  to  suit  the  picture  to  the  dimensions  of  a  room  to  which  it  was 
at  that  time  (early  part  of  18th  century)  removed'.  —  Official  Catalogue. 

1339.  Bernard  Fabritius  (fior.  1650-72),  Birth  of  John  the  Baptist ; 
166.  Rembrandt,  A  Capuchin  friar;  ^1247.  Nic.  Maas,  The  card-players 
(an  exceedingly  graphic  group  of  lifesize  figures) ;  679.  Ferdinand 
Bol  (pupil  of  Rembrandt;  d.  1680),  Astronomer  (1652);  1338. 
-B.  FabritiuSy  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds ;  237.  Rembrandi,  Portrait 
of  a  woman  (one  of  his  latest  works,  dated  1666).  —  1937.  Bart, 
van  der  Heist  (one  of  the  best  Dutch  portrait-painters ;  b.  at  Haar- 
lem in  1611  or  1612;  d.  1670),  Portrait  of  a  lady;  1342.  J.  de  Wet 
(17th  cent.),  Landscape;  *767.  School  of  Rembrandt,  Christ  blessing 
little  children;  1007.  Jan  Wila  (d.  before  1670),  Landscape;  *1248. 
Bart,  van  der  Heist,  Portrait  of  a  girl  (dated  1645);  Aelbert  Cuyp 
(Dort;  1606-91),  *824.  Ruined  castle  in  a  lake  (*gildedby  the  most 
glowing  evening-sun'),  823.  River-scene,  wiih  cattle;  967.  Jan 
Both,  Cattle  and  figures;  1002.  Jac,  Walscnppelle  (d.  alter  1717), 
Flowers  and  Insects;  1096.  Jan. Baptist  Weenix,  Hunting  scene; 
A,  Cuyp,  1289.  Landscape  with  cattle,  1683.  Study  of  a  horse,  962. 
Cattle  and  figures,  960.  Landscape  with  wind- mills;  1001.  Jan  van 
Huysum  (1682-1749),  Flowers ;  202.  MeUhior  d'Hondecoeter  (ani- 
mal-painter at  Utrecht;  d.  1695),  Poultry  ('this  cock  was  Honde- 
coeter's  favourite  bird,  which  he  is  said  to  have  taught  to  stand  to 
him  In  a  fixed  position  as  a  model');  A,  Cuyp,  961.  Cattle  and 
figures,  *53.  Landscape  with  cattle  and  figures  (with  masterly  treat- 
ment of  light  and  great  transparency  of  shadow) ;  1903.  Jan  Fyt 
(animal-painter  at  Antwerp  in  the  time  of  Rubens ;  d.  1661),  Land- 
scape with  dogs  and  game;  1917.  Jan  Both,  Italian  landscape. 

*822.  A.  Cuyp,  Horseman  and  cows  in  a  meadow. 

'Of  exquisite  harmony,  in  a  bright  cool  light,  unusual  with  him'.  —  W. 

*797.  A.  Cuyp,  Portrait,  dated  1649.  —  71.  Jan  Both,  Landscape 
with  figures;  1423.  J  van  Ravesteyn  (1572-1657),  Portrait  of  a 
lady;  1479.  H.  Avercamp  (1586-1663),  Ice-scene ;  1Q61.  Frans  Hals 
(ca.  1580-1666),  Portrait;  1074.  Dirck  Hals  (younger  brother  of 
Frans;  d.  1656),  Merry  party;  1346.  H.  Avercamp,  Winter  scene ; 
1446,  1445.  Rachel  Ruysch  (1664-1760),  Studies  of  flowers  (lent  by 
the  Victoria  and  Albert  Museum);  1469.  Willem  K.  Heda  (d.  ca. 
1680),-Still-llfe;  1021.  FransHals,  Portrait;  965.  Com,vanPoelen' 
burg  (d.  1667;  Utrecht,  imitator  of  the  Roman  School),  Ruin,  with 
women  bathing;  1278.  Hendrik  Gerritz  Pot  (d.  ca.  1656),  Convivial 


TheWestEnd,    14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.  183 

party;  13!20.  C,  Jarmens  (b.  at  Amsterdam  ca.  1594;  painted  in 
England),  AgloniusVoon;  J.  van  G^oytfri  (1696-1666),  137.  Land- 
Bcape,  1327.  Winter-scene;  20d,  Jan  Both,  Landscape  (flg ares  by 
PoeUnhurg) 'y  1321.  C,  Janstens,  Cornelia  Bemoens;  Salomon  van 
Ruysdael  (uncle  of  J.  van  Ruysdael;  d.  1670),  1439.  River-scene, 
1344.  Landscape;  1386.  WiUem  C.  Duyster  (Amsterdam;  1599- 
1636),  Soldiers  quarrelling;  1380.  Jan  van  Os  (1744-1808),  Fruit 
and  flowers;  1401.  Pieter  Snytn  (1681-1762),  Still-life;  1003.  Jan 
Fyi,  Dead  birds;  ♦212.  Thos.  dt  Peyser  (Amsterdam ;  1596-1667), 
Merchant  and  clerk;  1016.  Jan  van  Os,  Still-life;  1387.  WiUem 
C,  Duyster,  Players  at  backgammon;  Jan  Wynants  (d.  ca.  1680), 
971.  Landscape,  883.  Landscape,  with  accessories  by  Lingelbach 
(dated  1659),  884.  Landscape  (flgares  by  A.  van  dt  Velde\  972.  Land- 
scape; 1444.  Oerard  van  Honthorsty  Peasants  warming  themselves; 
151.  Jan  van  Goytn^  River-scene;  Remhmndt,  850.  Portrait,  1400. 
Christ  before  Pilate. 

*54.  Rembrandt^  Woman  wading,  dated  1654. 

*Her  eyes  are  cast  dovrn,  her  head  Inclined.  Is  she  hesitating  to 
enter  the  vrater  in  which  she  is  mirrored?  ....  The  charm  and  value 
of  this  painting  lie  in  the  brillant  touch  and  impasto ,  the  warm  and 
forcible  eolourbig,  the  middle  tints,  and  the  admirable  modelling".  — 
Votmatr,  ^Rembrandt^  $a  Vit  9t  tes  (Suvr€s\ 

On  a  Screen:  199.  Ood fried  Schaleken  (Dutch  genre  -  painter, 
famed  for  his  candle  -  light  effects,  and  a  pupil  of  Gerard  Dou ; 
d.  1706),  Lesbia  weighing  jewels  against  her  sparrow  (Catullus, 
Carmen  iii),  998.  The  duet;  1265,  Jan  Jamz  van  de  Veldt  (a  rare 
Amsterdam  painter;  ca.  1622-66),  Still-life ;  1256.  Herman  Steen- 
wyck  (Delft),  Still-life.  —  796.  Jan  van  Huysum,  Flowers.  —  The 
continuation  of  the  Dutch  School  is  to  be  found  in  R.  XII  (p.  185). 
Meanwhile,  however,  we  visit  — 

Boom  XI.  Early  Flbmibh  School.  The  small  pictures  by 
Flemish  masters  of  the  15th  cent,  though  not  usually  of  the  first 
class  nor  always  to  be  attributed  to  the  painters  whose  names  they 
bear,  are  of  great  interest  as  affording  a  varied  survey  of  the  realistic 
manner  of  the  school.  —  To  the  left:  1443.  IJendrick  Steenwyck 
the  Younger  (b.  at  Frankfort,  worked  at  Antwerp  and  at  London, 
where  he  supplied  architectural  backgrounds  toVan  Dyck's  portraits; 
1580-1649),  Churoh-interior;  713.  Jan  Moatatrt  (b.  1474),  Virgin 
and  Child;  Joachim  Patinir  (d.  ca.  1524),  717.  St.  John  in  Patmos, 
945.  Nun,  716.  St.  Christopher  bearing  the  Infant  Christ;  296. 
Quinttn  Matsys  (d.  1630),  Salvator  Mundi  and  Virgin  Mary  (two 
similar  pictures  at  Antwerp) ;  265.  FUmish  SchoolyYugin  and  Child ; 
721.  J.  van  Sehoreel  or  Secret  (d.  1562),  Portrait;  720.  J.  van 
8choretl(y)y  Rest  on  the  Flight  into  Egypt ;  714.  C.  Engelbertz  (1468- 
1533),  Mother  and  child;  1042.  Catharine  van  Hemeasen  (portrait- 
painter  at  the  Spanish  court ;  16th  cent.).  Portrait ;  2205.  P.  Neeffa 
(d.  ca.  1660),  Church-interior;  1082.  Pa«nir,  Visitation;  2204.  JBT. 
Sletnwycky  Church-interior;  7id»  Henrik  met  de  Bles  (*Henry  with 


184  14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.     TheWestEnd. 

the  forelock' ;  Flemish  painter  of  the  i6th  cent.),  Mary  Magdalen ; 
FUmUh  School^  1089.  Virgin  and  Child  with  St.  Elizaheth,  1078. 
Deposition  from  the  Gross;  716.  Patinir,  Crucifixion;  Oheerardt 
David  (early  Flemish  painter  of  Bruges;  d.  1523),  •1046.  Wing  of 
an  altar-piece,  representing  Canon  Bernardino  di  Salviatis,  a 
Florentine  merchant  in  Flanders,  with  SS.  Martin,  Donatian,  and 
Bernardino  of  Siena,  a  masterpiece,  •1432.  Mystic  Marriage  of 
St.  Catharine,  with  the  kneeling  donor  to  the  left;  924.  P.  Neefs, 
Church-interior;  Flemish  School^  783.  Exhumation  of  St.  Hubert, 
1079.  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  1086.  Virgin  and  Child  (triptych) ; 
718.  Henrik  met  de  Ble8(1)^  Mt.  Calvary ;  Patitdr,  1298  (in  a  fine  old 
frame),  River-scene,  1084.  Flight  into  Egypt;  1010.  Ditck  van  Delen 
(architectural  painter  in  Zealand  j  d.  1673),  Extensive  palatial  build- 
ings of  Renaissance  architecture,  with  figures  by  A,  Palamedea,  — 
♦944.  Marinus  de  Zeeuw  or  Van  Romerswael  (d.  ca.  1570;  a  fol- 
lower of  Q.  Matsys),  Two  bankers  or  usurers  in  their  office;  2209. 
Dutch  School  (16th  cent),  Portrait.  —  656.  Bernard  van  Orley 
(d.  1642),  Reading  Magdalen;  Flemish  School^  1419.  Legend  of 
St.  Giles,  1063.  Portrait;  Jan  Idabuse  (Jan  Qossaert;  early  Flemish 
portrait  and  historical  painter ;  d.  1532),  ♦656.  Portrait  of  a  man 
dressed  in  black,  with  fur  over  his  shoulders  (drawing  and  colouring 
alike  admirable),  946.  Portrait,  2211.  Jacqueline  de  Bourgogne(?) ; 
2206.  P.  Neeffs,  Church-interior;  Dieriek  Bouts  (1400-75),  Virgin 
and  Child  (on  loan) ;  664.  Bogier  van  der  Weyden^  Deposition  in 
the  tomb ;  Flemish  School^  1083.  Christ  crowned  with  thorns,  1036, 
♦943.  Portraits,  774.  Madonna  and  Child  enthroned ;  711.  Ascribed 
to  Bogier  van  der  Weyden^  Mater  Dolorosa. 

♦290.  Jan  van  Eyck  (d.  1440;  founder  of  the  early  Flemish 
School),  Portrait  of  a  man,  dated  1432. 

^Tbe  drawing  is  careful,  the  painting  blended  to  a  fault'.  —  C,  ^  C. 

No  number,  Petrus  Cristus  (1444-72),  Portrait  of  a  young  man 
(on  loan) ;  667.  Jac,  Comelissen  (Amsterdam  ;  d.  ca.  1660),  Dutch 
lady  and  gentleman,  with  their  patron-saints,  Peter  and  Paul. 

♦186.  Jan  van  Eyck^  Portraits  of  Giovanni  Amolfini  and  Jeanne 
de  Chenany,  his  wife. 

*In  no  single  instance  has  John  van  Eyck  expressed  with  more  per- 
fection, by  the  aid  of  colour,  the  sense  of  depth  and  atmosphere  ^  he 
nowhere  blended  colours  more  carefully,  nowhere  produced  more  trans- 
parent shadows The  finish  of  the  parts  is  marvellous,  and  the 

preservation  of  the  picture  perfect'.  —  C.  d:  C, 

'Without  a  prolonged  examination  of  this  picture,  it  is  impossible 
to  form  an  idea  of  the  art  with  which  it  has  been  executed.  One  feels 
tempted  to  think  that  in  this  little  panel  Van  Eyck  has  set  himself  to 
accumulate  all  manner  of  difficulties,  or  rather  of  impossibilities,  for  the 
mere  pleasure  of  overcoming  them.  The  perspective,  both  linear  and 
aerial,  is  so  ably  treated,  and  the  truthfulness  of  colouring  is  so  great, 
that  all  the  details,  even  those  reflected  in  the  mirror,  seem  perspicuous 
and  easy  \  and  instead  of  the  fatigue  which  the  examination  of  so  laborious 
and  complicated  a  work  might  well  occasion,  we  feel  nothing  save  pleasure 
and  admiration'.  —  ReUety  ^Oazette  des  Beaux  ArU\  1878. 

The  signature  on  this  picture  is  ^Johannes  de  Eyck  fuit  hie'  ('Jan  van 


TheWatEnd.     14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.  185 

Byck  was  liere%    The  inscription  on  No.  223  (see  below)  is  equally  modest : 
'Als  ich  kan'  ('As  I  can'). 

*222.  Jan  van  Eycky  Portrait  of  a  man. 
*This  is  a  panel  in  which  minate  finish  is  combined  with  delicate  mo- 
delling and  strong  relief,  and  a  brown  depth  of  colour'.  —  Crowe  and  Caval- 
caselle,  'Early  Flemish  Painters'. 

696.  Flemish  School,  Marco  Barbarigo ;  712.  Bogier  van  der 
Weyden,  Ecce  Homo. 

♦686.  Hans  Mending  or  Memlinc  (early  Flemish  master  of  Bruges; 
d.  ca.  1496),  Virgin  and  Child  enthroned,  marked  by  this  master's 
peculiar  tenderness  of  conception  and  yividness  of  tints,  No  number, 
Duke  of  Cleves  (on  loan) ;  Flemish  School^  1280.  Chxist  appearing 
to  the  Virgin  Mary,  ♦710.  Monk,  *a  vivid  and  truthful  portrait' ;  747. 
Attributed  to  MemUng,  St.  John  the  Baptist  and  St.  Lawrence,  *very 
minutely  and  delicately  worked' ;  Flemish  School,  709.  Virgin  and 
Child,  708.  Virgin  and  Child,  1433.  Portrait;  2207.  P.  Neeffs, 
Church-interior;  2163.  Antwerp  School,  Mary  Magdalen ;  664.  School 
of  Rogier  van  der  Weyden,  Mary  Magdalen ;  Flemish  School,  947. 
Portrait,  663.  Man  and  wife,  1081.  Portrait,  ♦668.  Death  of  theVirgin, 
1086.  Christ  appearing  to  Mary  after  his  Resurrection,  264.  Count 
of  Hainault  with  his  patron-saint,  1689.  Man  and  wife. 

"We  now  again  pass  through  Room  X  in  order  to  reach  — 

Boom  Xn.  Dutch  Schooi.  (17-18th  cent.).  To  the  left:  1332. 
Caspar  Netseher  (pupil  of  Terburg,  settled  at  The  Hague  ;  d.  1684), 
George,  first  Earl  of  Berkeley  (?).  —  ^826.  Oerard  Dou  (Leyden ; 
1613-76),  Poulterer's  shop. 

^Besides  the  extreme  finish,  in  which  he  holds  the  first  place,  it  sur- 
passes many  of  his  other  pictures  in  its  unusual  clearness,  and  in  the  agree- 
able and  spirited  heads."  —  W, 

1055.  H,  Sorgh  (Rotterdam,  pupil  of  Teniers  the  Younger ;  d. 
1682),  Card-players;  1221.  Ahr.  de  Fape  (d.  1666),  Interior.  — 
♦846.  Adriaen  van  Ostade  (figure-painter  at  Haarlem,  pupil  of  Frans 
Hals ;  1610-86),  The  alchymist. 

*The  effect  of  light  in  the  foreground ,  the  predominant  golden  tone 
of  extraordinary  brightness  and  clearness,  the  execution  equally  careful 
and  spirited,  and  the  contrast  of  the  ideep  cool  chiaroscuro  in  the  back- 
ground have  a  peculiar  charm\  —  W. 

958.  Jan  Both,  Outside  the  walls  of  Rome ;  211.  J.  vanHuchten- 
hurgh  (d.  1733),  Battle. 

♦864.  Oerard  Terburg  or  Ter  Borch  (Deventer,  the  greatest  Dutch 
painter  of  conversation-pieces ;  d.  1681),  Guitar-lesson. 

^Terburg  may  be  considered  as  the  creator  of  what  are  called  con- 
versation-pieces, and  is  at  the  same  time  the  most  eminent  master  in 
that  line.  In  delicacy  of  execution  he  is  inferior  to  none  *,  nay  in  a 
certain  delicate  blending  he  is  superior  to  all.  But  none  can  be  compared 
to  him  in  the  magical  harmony  of  his  silver  tones,  and  in  the  gradations 
of  the  aerial  perspective\  —  W. 

Oahrid  Metm  (Amsterdam;  1630-67),  ^839.  Music-lesson,  970. 
The  drowsy  landlady;  1004.  Nicolas  Berchem  (1620-83),  Italian 
landscape.  —  ^896.  Oerard  Terburg,  Peace  of  Miiiister. 


186  14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY:     TheWeatEnd. 

'This  pictare  represents  the  Plenipotentiaries  of  Philip  IV.  of  Spain 
and  the  Delegates  of  the  Dntch  United  Provinces  assembled  in  the  Rath- 
haus  at  Miinster,  on  the  16th  of  K&yj  1648,  for  the  purpose  of  ratifying 
and  confirming  by  oath  the  Treaty  ot  Peace  between  the  Spaniards  and 
the  Dutch,  signed  on  the  30th  of  January  previons".  (Catalogue).  It 
Is  one  of  the  master's  very  finest  works. 

1345.  Jan  Wouverman  (landscape  -painter  at  Haarlem ;  1629- 
66),  Landscape ;  *856.  Jan  Steen  (painter  of  hnmoroag  conversa- 
tlon- pieces;  Delft  andTbeHagne;  d.  1679),  The  music-master 
(an  early  and  very  carefully  finished  work). 

♦838.  Oabriel  Metsu,  The  duet. 

^Painted  in  the  warm,  full  tone,  which  is  especially  yaluable  in  his 
pictures'.  —  W, 

867.  Adriaen  van  de  Velde  (brother  of  Willem  and  pupil  of 
Wynants  at  Haarlem;  1639-72),  Farm  cottage;  1899.  0,  Terhwrg, 
Portrait  of  a  gentleman;  1329.  Quiryn  van  Brekelenkam  (d.  1668), 
Interior;  1421.  Jan  Steen,  Terrace-scene  with  figures ;  1005.  Nic, 
Berchem^  Landscape;  146.  Abraham  Storck  (d.  1710 V),  Shipping  on 
the  Maes ;  ♦849.  Paul  Potter  (The  Hague ;  1625-54),  Landscape  with 
cattle ;  ♦1459.  Gerbrand  van  den  Eeckhout  (1621-74),  The  wine-con- 
tract ;  Pieter  de  Hoogh  (1630-78),  ♦794.  Courtyard  of  a  Dutch  house, 
♦834.  Dutch  interior  (broad,  full  sunlight  effect).  —  '^835.  Pieter  de 
Hooghj  Court  of  a  Dutch  house  (1658). 

'Excites  a  joyful  feeling  of  summer.  In  point  of  fulness  and  depth  of 
tone  and  execution  one  of  the  best  pictures  of  the  master".  —  W. 

K.  duJardin  (1622-78),  828.  Landscape,  with  cattle,  985.  Sheep 
and  goats;  Philips  Wouverman  (Haarlem ;  1619-68),  8S2.  Landscape, 
973.  Sandbank  In  a  river,  880.  On  the  sea-shore,  selling  fish  (sup- 
posed to  be  his  last  work);  1009.  Paul  Potter^  The  old  grey  hunter; 
876.  Willem  van  de  Velde  the  Founper- (1633- 1707),  Gale;  •627. 
J.  van  Ruysdaely  Landscape  with  a  waterfall;  1470.  Jacob  Weiir 
(German  School;  d.  1670),  Battle-scene;  ^879.  P.  Wouverman,  In- 
terior of  a  stable  (very  delicately  finished).  —  ^976.  P.  Wouver- 
man, Battle. 

*FulI  of  animated  action,  of  the  utmost  transparency,  and  executed 
with  admirable  precision'.  —  W. 

881.  P.  Wouvermant  Gathering  faggots. 

♦878.  P.  Wouverman,  *La  belle  laitiSre'. 

^This  picture  combines  that  delicate  tone  of  his  second  period  with 
the  great  force  which  he  adopted  especially  toward  the  end  of  it.  The 
efi'ect  of  the  dark  figures  relieved  against  the  landscape  is  extraordin- 
ary'. —  W. 

1060.  p.  Wouvermany  Vedettes,  an  early  work;  1341.  Cornelius 
Gerritz  Decker  (Haarlem;  d.  1678),  Landscape;  J.  van  Ruysdael, 
989. Water- mills,  746.  Landscape,  ^990.  Landscape  (a  ehef'd*oeuvre\ 
987.  Rocky  landscape,  44.  Bleaching -ground,  1390.  View  near 
Scheveningen ;  1061.  Egbert  van  der  Poel{di.  i%M\  Delft),  View 
of  Delft  after  the  explosion  of  a  powder-mill  in  1654;  628.  J.  van 
Ruysdaelj  Landscape  with  a  waterfall;  833.  Meindert  Hobbema, 
Forest-scene;  988.  J.  van  Ruysdael,  Old  oak;  K,  du  Jardin,  ♦826.- 


.     TheWeHEnd.     14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.  187 

Figures  and  animals  reposing,  827.  Fording  the  stream,  dated  1657; 
1462.  Hendrik  Duhbels  (Amsterdam;  d.  1676),  Sea-piece;  2143. 
JacobOchtervelt,  Lady  standing  at  a  spinet ;  1481.  C.  P.  Bega(iQ20M), 
The  philosopher;  1006.  Berchem,  Landscape;  979.  W.  van  de  Veldt 
the  Younger,  Shipping ;  240.  Berehem,  A  ford ;  841.  Willtm  van  Mieri» 
(d.  1747),  Fish  and  poultry  shop  (^1713) ;  1848.  Abraham  Raguineau 
(h,  1623,  d.  after  1681),  Portrait;  991.  J.  van  Ruysdael,  Prostrate 
tree;  1383.  Jan  Vermeer  of  Delft  (1632-75),  Young  lady  at  a  spinet; 
1699.  Ascribed  to  J.  Vermeer  of  Delft^  The  lesson. 

*869.  A,  van  de  Veldt,  Frost-scene. 

^Admirably  drawn,  touched  with  great  spirit,  and  of  a  very  pleasing, 
though,  for  the  subject,  perhaps  too  warm  a  tone".  —   W. 

1294.  W.  de  Poorter  (d.  after  1645),  Allegorical  subject;  1680. 
Dutch  School  (17th  cent. ;  attributed  to  K.  dn  Jardin),  Portrait ;  1442. 
L.  liafcAuiwn  (1631-1703),  Ships  in  a  gale ;  1347.  Isaac  van  Ottade 
(landscape  and  figure  painter,  pupil  of  his  elder  brother  Adriaen; 
1612-49),  Farmyard. 

*847.  haac  van  Ostade,  Village-scene  in  Holland. 

'This  delicately  drawn  picture  combines  the  greatest  solidity  with 
the  most  spirited  execution,  and  the  finest  impasto  with  the  greatest 
glow  and  depth  of  tone.  Paul  Pptter  himself  could  not  have  painted  the 
grey  horse  better'.  —  W. 

*848.  Isaac  van  Ostade,  Canal-scene  in  winter. 

'The  great  truth,  admirable  treatment,  and  fresh  feeling  of  a  winter's 
day  render  it  one  of  the  ehe/s-d'^oeuvre  of  the  master".  —  W. 

975.  Philips  Wouverman,  Stag -hunt;  1000.  Bakhuitenj  Ship- 
ping ;  *963.  /.  van  Ostade,  Frozen  river  (glowing  with  light,  very 
transparent  in  colour,  and  delicate  in  treatment) ;  W.  van  de  Velde 
the  Younger,  980.  Dutch  vessels  saluting,  981.  Storm  at  sea,  978. 
Biver-scene,  875.  Light  breeze,  977.  Sea-piece,  874.  Calm  at  sea. 

♦873.  W,  van  de  Velde  the  Younger,  Coast  of  Scheveningen. 

'The  numerous  figures  are  by  Adriaen  van  de  Velde.  The  union  of 
these  two  great  masters  makes  this  one  of  the  most  charming  pictures  of 
the  Dutch  School'.  —  W. 

*832.  Hobbema,  Village,  with  water-mills  (in  a  warm,  summer- 
like  tone);  Bakhuhen,  818.  Coast-scene,  819.  Off  the  mouth  of  the 
Thames. 

♦830.  Hobbema,  The  Avenue,  Middelharnis. 

'From  simple  and  by  no  means  beautiful  materials  a  picture  is  formed 
which,  by  the  feeling  for  nature  and  the  power  of  art,  makes  a  striking 
impression  on  the  intelligent  spectator.  Such  daylight  I  have  never 
before  seen  in  any  picture.  The  perspective  is  admirable,  while  the 
gradation,  from  the  fullest  bright  green  in  the  foreground,  is  so  delicately 
observed ,  that  it  may  be  considered  a  masterpiece  in  this  respect ,  and 
is,  on  the  whole,  one  of  the  most  original  works  of  art  with  which  I  am 
acquainted'.  —  W. 

685.  Hobbema,  Landscape;  1348.  A.  van  de  Velde,  Landscape; 
872.  W,  van  de  Velde,  Shipping;  984.  A.  van  de  Velde,  Landscape; 
W.  van  de  Velde,  149.  Calm  at  sea,  150.  Gale  at  sea ;  993.  Jan  van 
der  Heyden  (architectural  and  landscape  painter  at  Amsterdam; 
1637-1712),  Landscape ;  967.  Jan  van  de  Cappelle  (marine  painter 


188  14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.     TheWest  End. 

of  the  17tli  cent,  at  Amsterdam;  under  the  influence  of  Rembrandt), 
Shipping;  223.  Bakhuizen,  Dutch  shipping;  983.  A.  van  de  Velde, 
Bay  horse,  cow,  and  goat;  Van  de  CappelUj  964.  River-scene,  865. 
Coast-scene ;  820.  Berchem,  Landscape,  with  ruin ;  994.  Jan  van  der 
JSTcf/rfen,  Street;  982.  A,  van  de  Velde,  Landscape.  —  ♦868.  A,  van 
de  Velde,  Ford. 

*The  composition  is  very  tasteful,  and  the  contrast  between  the  con- 
centrated mass  of  light  and  the  clear  half-shadow,  which  is  repeated  in  soft 
broken  tones  upon  Uxe  horizon,  is  very  attractive'.  —  W. 

1420.  0.  A.  Berckheyde  (Haarlem ;  1638-98),  View  in  Haarlem ; 
1915.  Jan  van  der  Heydin^  Dutch  church  and  market-place ;  999. 
G.  Schalcken,  Candle-light  effect;  1053.  £manu«Z  d«  Wi«e  (Amster- 
dam; 1607-92),  Church-interior;  1451.  Q,  A,  Berckheyde,  Church- 
interior  ;  1287.  Dutch  School,  Interior  of  an  art-gallery ;  Jan  van  der 
Heyden,  866.  Street  in  Cologne  (with  figures  by  A,  van  de  Velde"), 
992.  Gothic  and  classic  buildings,  1914.  Boyal  chateau  in  Holland. 
—  966.  Van  de  CappeUe,  River-scene ;  *870.  W.  van  de  Velde,  Sea- 
piece.  ' —  831.  Hobbema,  Ruins  of  Brederode  Castle. 

'Strongly  illumined  by  a  sunbeam,  and  reflected  in  the  dark  yet  clear 
water  which  surrounds  them'.  —  W. 

846.  NeUcher,  Lady  at  a  spinning-wheel  (finished  with  great 
delicacy ;  840.  Frans  van  Mierit  (d.  1681),  Lady  feeding  a  parrot 
(these  two  figures,  of  the  same  size  and  in  the  same  dress,  afford 
an  interesting  comparison  of  the  workmanship  of  the  two  masters) ; 
Maas,  *159.  The  Dutch  housewife,  dated  1655,  *207.  The  idle  ser- 
vant, a  masterpiece,  dated  1655,  *153.  Cradle;  997.  O.  Schalcktn, 
Old  woman.  —  *844.  Netscher,  Maternal  instruction. 

'The  ingenuous  expression  of  the  children ,  the  delicacy  of  the  hand' 
ling,  the  striking  efl'ect  of  light,  and  the  warm  deep  harmony  render 
this  one  of  the  most  pleasing  pictures  by  Netscher\  — .  W. 

Above  the  cupboard  in  the  background  there  hangs  a  small  copy  of 
Rubens's  'Brazen  Serpent'  in  this  collection  (So.  59,  see  p.  189). 

843.  Netscher,  Children  blowing  soap-bubbles  (1670) ;  965.  Van 
de  Cappelle,  River- scene;  871.  W,  van  de  Velde,  Sea-piece;  205. 
J.  W.  E.  Dietrich  (German  School,  court-painter  at  Dresden ;  d.  1774), 
Itinerant  musicians.  —  Then  five  modem  pictures  without  numbers, 
on  loan:  Jacob  Maria  (d.  1899),  Mother  and  child.  The  draw- 
bridge ;  Anton  Mauve  (d.  1888),Watering  horses ;  Johannes  Bosboom 
(d.  1891),  Interior  of  Haarlem  church;  Josef  Israels  (b.  1824),  The 
philosopher.  — 1918.  P.  laFargue,  Market-place  at  The  Hague ;  1222. 
M.  d'Hondeeoetery  Foliage,  birds,  and  insects;  ♦1660.  A.  van  der 
Wer/f  (1659-1722),  Portrait  of  the  artist ;  Oerard  Dou,  968.  Portrait 
of  his  wife,  1415.  Portrait  of  Anna  Maria  van  Schurman,  192. 
Portrait  of  himself;  1056.  H.  Sorgh,  Man  and  woman  drinking. 

A  small  comer-room,  entered  from  the  passage  between  RR.  XII  and 
XIII,  contains  Monochrome  Painting*  and  Crayon  Drawings. 

Boom  XIII.  Flemish  School.  Besides  works  by  Rubens  and 
Van  Dyck,  the  chiefs  of  t!ie  Flemish  school  of  the  17th  cent,  this 
room  contains  interesting  examples  of  Teniers  the  Younger.    To 


TheWe$tEnd,     14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.  189 

the  left:  69.  Peter  Paul  Rubens  (Antwerp;  1677-1640),  Brazen  Ser- 
pent; 950.  David  Tenters  the  Elder  (pupil  of  Ruhens,  and  also  of  £ls- 
heimer  at  Rome;  d.  1649),  Conversation ;  David  Tenters  the  Younger 
(genre-painter  In  Antwerp,  pupil  of  A.  Brouwei  and  Rubens; 
1610-90),  158.  Boors  regaling,  164.  Musical  party,  953.  Toper; 
1353.  M.  Bykaert  (1587-1631),  Landscape  with  satyrs;  1895. 
J.  Jordaens,  Portrait;  Van  Dyck,  49.  Portrait,  ""^SO.  Miraculous 
Draught  of  Fishes  (after  Rubens) ;  *805.  Teniers  the  Younger,  Old 
woman  peeling  a  pear;  1810.  Fr.  Duchatel  (Brussels;  1616-94), 
Portrait  of  a  boy;  Rubens,  187.  Apotheosis  of  William  the  Silent, 
279.  Horrors  of  War,  coloured  sketch  for  a  large  picture  in  the  Pitti 
Palace  at  Florence,  853.  Triumph  of  Silenus. 

*278.  Rubens  f  Triumph  of  Julius  GsBsar,  freely  adapted  from 
Mantegna^s  famous  cartoons,  now  in  Hampton  Court  Palace  (p.  409). 

The  Flemiflh  painter  strives  to  add  richness  to  the  scene  by  Bacchan- 
alian riot  and  the  sensnality  of  imperial  Borne.  His  elephants  twist  their 
trunks ,  and  trnmpet  to  the  din  of  cymbals ;  negroes  feed  the  flaming 
candelabra  with  scattered  frankincense;  the  white  oxen  of  Glitamnos  are 
loaded  with  gaudy  flowers,  and  the  dancing  maidens  are  disheyelled 
Msenads.  But  the  rhythmic  procession  of  Mantegna,  modulated  to  the 
sounds  of  flutes  and  soft  recorders,  carries  our  imagination  back  to  the 
best  days  and  strength  of  Borne.  His  priesta  and  generals ,  captives  and 
chorie  women  are  as  little  Greek  as  they  are  modem.  In  them  awakes 
to  a  new  life  the  spirit-quelling  energy  of  the  Bepublic.  The  painter's 
severe  taste  keeps  out  of  sight  the  insolence  and  orgies  of  the  Empire  \ 
he  conceives  Bome  as  Shakspeare  did  in  ^Coriolanut''  (Spmonds). 

Rubens,  157.  Landscape,  1195.  Birth  of  Venus;  156.  Van  Dyck, 
Study  of  horses;  2130.  Jan  Siberechts,  The  water  lane;  Teniers  the 
Younger,  242.  Players  at  tric-trac  or  backgammon,  867-860.  The 
Seasons;  1231.  Sir  Anthony  More  or  Moro  (b.  at  Utrecht  in  1512; 
painted  portraits  in  England),  Portrait ;  1094.  Sir  4.  More  (?),  Portrait. 

•862.  Rubens,  Portrait,  known  as  the  'Chapeau  de  paille'. 

'The  chief  charm  of  the  celebrated  'Chapeau  de  Paille^  (chapeau  de 
poll)  consists  in  the  marvellous  triumph  over  a  great  difficulty,  that  of 
painting  a  head  entirely  in  the  shadow  ca<*t  by  the  hat,  and  yet  in  the 
clearest  and  most  brilliant  tones'.  —  ^Kugler\  edited  by  Crotoe. 

50.  Van  Dyckj  Emp.  Theodosius  refused  admission  to  the  Church 
of  Sant'  Ambrogio  at  Milan  by  St.  Ambrose  (copied,  with  slight 
alterations,  from  Rubens's  picture  at  Vienna);  949.  Teniers  the  Elder, 
Rocky  landscape ;  "'66.  Rubens,  Autumnal  landscape,  with  a  view  of 
the  Chateau  de  Stein,  the  painter's  house,  near  Malines.  —  1017. 
Unknown  Flemish  Master,  Landscape  (signed  D.D.V.,  1622);  Rubens, 
38.  Rape  of  the  Sabine  women,  67.  Holy  Family;  *62.  Van  Dyck, 
Portrait  (probably  Cornelius  van  der  Geest) ;  Gonzales  Coques  (An- 
twerp; d.  1684),  *1114-1118.  The  five  senses,  allegorical  and  finely 
executed  half-lengths,  1011.  Portrait;  Teniers  the  Younger,  817. 
Chateau  of  the  painter  at  Perck,  with  portraits  of  himself  and  his 
family,  861.  River-scene,  862.  The  husband  surprised;  ^821.  Coques, 
Family  portraits,  amply  justifying  the  artistes  claim  to  be  the  'Little 
Van  Dyck*;  961.  Teniers  the  Elder,  Playing  at  bowls.  —  194.  Rubens, 
Judgment  of  Paris. 


190  14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.     TheWestEnd. 

Smaller  repetitions  exist  in  the  Louvre  and  at  Dresden.  Tlie  London 
picture,  though  possibly  not  painted  entirely  by  Rubeos'  own  hand,  was 
certainly  executed  under  his  guidance  and  supervision. 

962.  Teniers  the  Younger,  Village-fete,  dated  1643. 

^An  admirable  original  repetition  of  the  masterly  picture  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  Duke  of  Bedford,  though  not  equal  to  the  Bedford  picture 
in  delicacy*.  —  W, 

Teniers  the  Younger ,  166.  The  miserB,  863.  Dives  In  torment;  no 
number,  Adriacn  Brouwer,  Tavern-scene  (on  loan)i  *2127,  2144.  Van 
Dyck,  The  Marchese  Giovanni  Battista  Cataneo  and  his  v^ife;  Rubens, 
67.  Conversion  of  St.  Bavon,  46.  Peace  and  War  (presented  by  the 
painter  to  Charles  I.  in  1630);  *1262.  Frans  Snyders  (animal  and 
fruit  painter,  Antwerp  j  1579-1667),  Fruit. 

Boom  XIV.  Spanish  School.  To  the  left:  1122.  Domenico 
Theotocopuli  (d.  1625;  suinamed  II  Qreco\  A  Cardinal;  Velazquez 
(d.  1660),  ♦746.  Philip  IV.,  •197.  Philip  IV.  hunting  the  wild  boar, 
*741.  Dead  warrior  ('Orlando  muerto');  244.  Josef  Ribera,  sumamed 
Lo  Spagnoletto,  Shepherd  and  lamb ;  1930.  Zurbaran  (d.  1662),  Por- 
trait of  a  lady. 

1434.  Velazquez,  A  Betrothal  (little  more  than  a  sketch). 

This  picture  was  at  one  time  believed  to  represent  the  betrothal  of 
the  daughter  of  Philip  IV.  to  the  Emperor  Leopold,  but  it  is  perhaps  more 
probable  that  it  depicts  the  less  magnificent  betrothal  of  the  painter's  own 
daughter  to  his  confrere  El  Mazo.  In  this  case  the  knight  of  Santiago 
seated  at  the  table  is  probably  a  portrait  of  Velazquez. 

*13.  Bartolome  Esteban  Murillo  (influenced  by  Velazquez  and  Van 
Dyck;  d.  1682),  Holy  Family;  1291.  Juan  de  Valdes  Leal  (1630-91), 
Assumption;  *1467.  Theotocopuli^  Christ  expelling  the  traders; 
1473.  FrancUco  Ooya  (1746-1828),  Portrait.  —  Velazquez,  1129. 
Philip  IV.  (bought  at  the  Hamilton  sale  for  6300^.),  ♦2067.  Venus 
and  Cupid  (the  'Rokeby  Venus' ;  purchased  for  46,O0Oi.  in  1906 
and  presented  to  the  Nation),  *1316.  Portrait  of  Admiral  Pulido- 
Pareja.  —  1951.  Ooya,  Portrait  of  Dr.Peral;  1376.  Velazquez,  Duel 
in  the  Prado  near  Madrid  (sketch);  no  number,  Lo  Fil  de  Mestre 
Rodrigo  (16th  cent.).  Adoration  of  the  Magi  (lent  by  the  Victoria 
and  Albert  Museum);  Murillo,  ^74.  Spanish  peasant  boy,  1286.  Boy 
drinking;  1376.  Velazquez,  Christ  at  the  house  of  Martha.  —  1229. 
Morales  (1609-86;  surnamed  'the  Divine*  from  his  love  of  religious 
subjects),  Holy  Family,  a  highly  finished  little  work,  recalling  the 
Flemish  manner;  ^232.  Zurbaran,  Nativity  (formerly  considered  an 
early  work  of  Velazquez) ;  1676.  F.  de  Herrera  (1576-1656),  Christ 
and  the  Doctors;  Ooya,  1471.  Picnic,  1472.  Scene  from  a  play; 
230.  Zurbaran,  Franciscan  monk;  ♦1148.  Velazquez,  Scourging  of 
Christ;  235.  Ribera,  Dead  Christ;  ♦He.  MuriUo,  St.  John  and  the 
Lamb. 

Eoom  XV.  Gbbman  School.  To  the  left :  1087.  Oerman  School 
(16- 16th  cent.),  Mocking  of  Christ;  706.  Master  of  the  ^Lyversberg 
Pastion'  (Cologne;  15th  cent.),  Presentation  in  the  Temple;  1088. 


TheWestEnd.     14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.  191 

German  School  (16tb  cent.),  Cruciflxion  (side  compartments,  see 
below) ;  262.  School  of  the  Meister  von  Lieshom^  Crucifixion  •,  259. 
Meiater  von  Liesbom  (ca.  1465),  He&d  of  Ohrigt;  687.  WiUiam  of 
Cologne  (early  Cologne  painter;  14th  cent.),  St.  Veronica  with  her 
napkin;  Meister  von Liesbomj  265.  Saints,  256.  Annunciation,  254. 
Saints;  257.  Attributed  to  the  Meister  von  LUsbom^  Purltlcatlon  of 
the  Virgin  and  the  Presentation  of  Christ. 

*1314.  Han$  Holbein  the  Younger  (son  and  pupil  of  H.  Holbein 
the  Elder ;  worked  much  in  London;  1497-1543),  The  Ambassadors. 

The  picture,  along  with  Nos.  1315  (see  p.  190)  and  1316  (p.  176),  was 
purchased  firom  Lord  Radnor  in  1880  for  65,000/.  The  figure  on  the  left 
is  supposed  to  be  Jean  de  Dinteville,  Freneh  ambassador  In  London  in 
1533,  and  that  on  the  other  side  Qeorge  de  Selve,  Bishop  of  Lavaur. 
Another  theory,  elaborated  by  Mr.  W.  F.  Dickes,  identlflos  the  personages 
as  the  brothers  Otto  Henry  and  Philip,  Counts-Palatine  of  the  Rhine,  and 
.  describes  the  painting  as  a  commemoration  of  the  Treaty  of  Nuremberg 
in  1532. 

The  curious  object  in  the  foreground  is  the  distorted  projection  of  a 
skull,  as  will  be  seen  when  viewed  diagonally  from  the  right. 

MeUter  von  Werden,  251.  Saints,  252.  Conversion  of  St.  Hubert, 
250.  Saints,  253.  Mass  of  St.  Hubert;  261.  Meister  von  Liesborn, 
Saints ;  707.  German  School  (15th  cent.),  Two  saints.  —260.  Meister 
von  Liesbom^  Saints;  1427.  Hans  Baldung  Grien  (d.  1545),  Pletk; 
no  numbers,  Christoph  Amberger^  Portrait,  JBart.  Bruyn  (ca.  1524-55), 
Dr.  Fuschius  (on  loan);  1243.  C.  W.  Heimbach  (1613-78),  Portrait; 
1925.  Lucas  Cranach,  Portrait;  195.  German  School  (16th  cent.). 
Medical  professor;  722.  German  School^  Portrait ;  1080.  Lower  Rhenish 
School^  Head  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  with  mourning  angels;  no 
number,  Hans  Holbein,  *Prlnces8  Christina  of  Denmark,  widow  of 
Francesco  Sforza,  Duke  of  Milan  (on  loan);  245.  Hans  Bqldung 
Grien  ^  Senator  (with  the  forged  monogram  of  Albrecht  DQrer);  1151. 
German  School,  Entombment;  184.  Nicolas  Lucidel  (ca.  1527-90; 
b.  In  Halnault,  painted  portraits  at  Nuremberg),  Young  German  lady 
(formerly  ascribed  to  More);  723.  Martin  Schoen,  Virgin  and  Child; 
1938.  Albrecht  Durer  (1471-1528),  Portrait  of  his  father;  1232. 
H,  Aldegrever  (d.  after  1555),  Portrait;  1424.  Adam  Elsheimer  (b.  at 
Frankfort  1578;  d.  at  Rome  16201,  Tobias  and  the  angel;  291.  Lucas 
Cranac/i  (1472-1553),  Young  lady;  1088  (see  above) ;  %9.  Rotten- 
hammer  (d.  1628),  Pan  and  Syrinx;  1049.  Westphalian  School  (;>), 
Cruciflxion;  705.  Attributed  to  Meister  Stephan  (d.  iibi\  Saints; 
258.  Meister  von  Liesbom,  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  1014.  Elsheimer, 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Lawrence;  1088  (see  above);  no  number,  Master 
of  the  Death  of  the  Virgin  (Cologne,  early  16th  cent.),  Virgin  and 
Child  with  donor  (on  loan). 

Soom  XVI  (adjoining  R.  XIV).  Fbbnch  School.  The  French 
landscape-painter  Claude  LorrainQClaude  GelUe ;  1600-1682),  who 
is  represented  in  this  collection  by  several  fine  examples,  Is  chiefly 
eminent  for  his  skill  In  aerial  perspective  and  his  management  of 
sunlight.   Salvator  Rosa  and  the  tv^o  Pousslns  lived  and  painted 


192  14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.     The  West  End, 

at  Rome  contempoianeoasly  with  him.  iVicAo^asPofiMin  (1594-1665), 
more  famed  as  a  painter  of  JGLguies  than  of  landscapes,  was  the 
biother-in-law  of  Gaspar  PousHn  (properly  Oaspar  Dughet ;  1613- 
75),  a  follower  of  Claude. 

On  the  right:  1190.  Ascribed  to  Fr.  Clouet  (court- painter  to 
Francis  I. ;  d.  1672),  Portrait  of  a  boy;  Simon  Marmion  (16th  cent.), 
1302.  Soul  of  St.  Bertin  borne  to  heaven,  1303.  Choir  of  angels;  no 
numbers,  MaUre  de  FUmalle^  Virgin  and  Child  with  angels,  Master 
of  Jehan  Perreal,  St.  Clement  and  donor  (both  on  loan).  —  Then  two 
large  landscapes  by  Claude  and  two  by  Turner  (p.  196),  the  two 
latter  bequeathed  by  the  artist  on  condition  that  they  should  be 
hung  beside  the  Claudes.  *12.  Claude,  Landscape  with  figures  (with 
the  inscription  on  the  picture  itself,  ^Manage  d'Isac  avec  Rebeoa'), 
a  work  of  wonderfully  transparent  atmosphere,  recalling  in  its  com- , 
position  the  celebrated  picture  41  molino'  (the  mill)  in  the  Palazzo 
Doria  at  Rome,  painted  in  1648.  —  498.  Turner,  Dido  building 
Carthage. 

This  picture  id  not  considered  a  favourable  specimen  of  Turner,  whose 
^eye  for  colour  unaccountably  fails  him'  (Buskin).  Mr.  Ruskin  comments 
on  the  'exquisite  choice'  of  the  group  of  children  sailing  toy  boats,  as 
expressive  of  the  ruling  passion  which  was  to  be  the  source  of  Carthage's 
future  greatness. 

The  visitor  will  scarcely  need  to  be  referred  to  'Modern  Painters' 
(Vol.  I),  for  Mr.  Ruskin's  eloquent  comparison  of  Turner  with  Claude 
and  the  other  landscape-painters  of  the  old  style  and  for  his  impassioned 
championship  of  the  English  master. 

♦14.  Claude,  Embarkation  of  the  Queen  of  Sheba  (1648). 

'The  effect  of  the  morning  sun  on  the  sea,  the  waves  of  which  run 
high,  and  on  the  masses  of  building  which  adorn  the  shore,  producing 
the  most  striking  contrast  of  light  and  shade,  is  sublimely  poetical'.  —  W. 

♦479.  Turner,  Sun  rising  in  a  mist.  —  Above  these,  O.  Poussiny 
96.  Landscape  with  Dido  and  JBneas,  with  sky  much  overcast; 
36.  Land-storm.  1336.  French  School  (15th  cent.).  Madonna;  no 
number,  French  or  Flemish  School  (15th  cent.).  Lady  as  Mary  Magdalen 
(on  loan).  —  660.  Ascribed  to  Fr,  Clouet,  Portrait;  1939.  Frerhch 
School,  Virgin  and  Child  with  saints ;  166.  N.  Poussin,  Plague  among 
the  Philistines  at  Ashdod.  —  *Si,  0.  Poussin,  Landscape,  with 
Abraham  and  Isaac. 

This  is  the  finest  picture  by  Poussin  here.  Seldom,  perhaps,  have  the 
charms  of  a  plain,  as  contrasted  with  hilly  forms  overgrown  with  the  richest 
forests,  been  so  well  understood  and  so  happily  united  as  here,  the  efi'ect 
being  enhanced  by  a  warm  light,  broken  by  shadows  of  clouds'.  —  W. 

104.  Nicolas  Lancret  (painter  of  'fetes  galantes';  d.  1743),  Age 
(the  rest  of  the  series.  Ages  of  man,  farther  on);  1019.  Jean  Oreuze 
(painter  of  fancy  portraits ;  d.  1806),  Head  of  a  girl  looking  upward ; 
G,  Poussin,  161.  Italian  landscape,  1169.  Calling  of  Abraham; 
206.  Greuze,  Head  of  a  girl;  103.  Lancret,  Manhood  (see  above). — 
1020.  Greuze,  Girl  with  an  apple;  101.  Lancret,  Infancy  (see  above); 
♦30.  Claude,  Embarkation  of  St.  Ursula;  2081.  Hyacinthe  Rigaud 
(portrait- painter  under  Louis  XIV.  and  Louis  XV.;  d.  1743),  Lulli 


TheWcitEnd,     14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.  193 

and  his  fellow  mnsicfans  at  the  French  court;  1164.  Oreuze,  Girl 
with  a  lamb  j  102.  Lancret^  Youth  (see  p.  192);  N.  PouaHn^  39.  Nursing 
of  Bacchus,  65.  Cephalus  and  Aurora,  42.  Bacchanalian  festival ; 
19.  Claude^  Landscape,  with  Narcissus  and  Echo. — 40.  N,  PotMfin, 
Landscape,  with  Phocion. 

According  to  Mr.  Bntkin  ibis  is  *one  of  the  finest  landscapes  that  an- 
cient art  has  produced,  —  the  work  of  a  really  great  and  intellectaal  mind*. 

*62.  N,  Pou88in^  Bacchanalian  dance. 

This  is  the  best  example  of  Nicholas  Ponssin  in  the  gallery.    The 
composition  is  an  imitation  of  an  ancient  bas-relief. 

Boom  Xyn.  French  School.  To  the  left:  1422.  Eustache  Le 
5tt«ir(d.  1665),  Holy  Family;  61.  Ctourfc,  Landscape;  1664.  J.B,8. 
Chardin  (d.  1779),  *La  Fontaine';  64.  8.  Bourdon  (1616-71),  Return 
of  the  Ark  from  captivity;  1018.  Claude,  Classical  landscape  (dated 
1673);  91.  N.  Pousnn,  Sleeping  nymph  surprised  by  satyrs;  2216. 
J.  F,  de  Troy  (1679-1752),  *La  main  chaude';  55.  Ctoudc,  Land- 
scape with  death  of  Procris.  —  1319.  Claude,  Landscape  and  view 
in  Rome;  1653.  J»fm<r.  Fi^ir<rLeJ5run(1755-1842),  Portrait  of  herself; 
798.  Philippe  de  Ckampaigne  (d.  1674),  Three  portraits  of  Cardinal 
Richelieu,  painted  as  a  guide  in  the  execution  of  a  bust  (over  the 
profile  on  the  spectator's  right  are  the  words,  *De  ces  deux  profiles 
ce  cy  est  le  meilleur');  2217.  J.  L.  David  (d.  1825),  Elisa  Bona- 
parte, Grand  Duchess  of  Tuscany.  —  236.  C.  J.  Vemet  (1714-89; 
grand-father  of  Horace  Vemet),  Castle  of  Sant'  Angelo  at  Rome; 
2218.  Ingres,  Madam  Malibran;  2134.  Fantin-Latour,  Apples;  no 
number,  Narcisae  V.  Diaz  de  la  Pena  (1809-76),  Storm  (on  loan); 
2120.  Jacques  de  Saint- Aubin,  A  fencing-match ;  no  number,  Eugene 
Isaley,  Fish-market,  Dieppe  (on  loan)  ;  2135.  Jean  Baptiste  Corot, 
The  marsh  Arleux-du-Nord,  Noon,  The  wood-gatherer,  The  leaning 
tree,  Evening  on  the  lake  (these  four  on  loan) ;  Jaahey,  Grandfather's 
birthday  (on  loan) ;  *Q.  Claude,  Landscape  with  figures  (David  and 
Saul  in  the  Cave  of  Adullam);  1952.  Fantin-Latour,  Portraits;  1426. 
Le  Nain  (d.  1648),  Tasting  (portrait-group);  2078.  Euglne  Boudin, 
Trouville  harbour;  2162.  Joseph  Ducreux,  Portrait  of  the  artist; 
2058.  Diaz,  Sunny  days  in  the  forest;  5.  Claude,  Seaport  at  sunset, 
C. F.  Daubigny,  Willows  and  fishermen;  2133.  Fantin-Latour, Roses; 
1090.  Francois  Boucher  (1704-70),  Pan  and  Syrinx.  —  98. 0,  Poussin, 
Landscape;  903.  HyacintheRigaud,  Cardinal  Fleury;  1393.C.  J.Vemet, 
Mediterranean  seaport;  2.  Ctoude,  Pastoral  landscape  with  figures  (re- 
conciliation of  Cephalus  and  Procris);  68.  G,  Poussin,  Landscape; 
68.  Claude,  Landscape  with  goats;  1258.  J.  B.  8,  Chardin,  Still-life. 

To  reach  the  next  room,  we  return  through  R.  XVI  and  cross  the 
main  staircase. 

Boom  XVIII.  Oldbb  British  School.  In  the  doorway,  under 
glass,  are  the  palettes  of  John  Constable  (left)  and  Ford  Madox 
Brown  (right).  To  the  left:  314.  8am.  8cott  (d.  1772),  Old  West- 
minster Bridge ;  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds  (portrait-painter  and  writer 

Baxdbkkk's  London.    i6th  Edit.  13 


194  14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.     TheWestEnd, 

on  art,  founder  and  first  president  of  the  Royal  Academy;  4723-92), 
890.  George  IV.  as  Prince  of  Wales,  111.  Lord  Heatbfleld,  the  de- 
fender of  Gibraltar  in  1779-83,  106.  Portrait;  S02.  Richard  Wilson 
(1713-82),  Italian  scene;  Reynolds,  1924.  Mrs.  Hartley  and  child, 
885.  The  snake  in  the  grass,  ♦182.  Heads  of  angels.  —  Reynolds, 

.307.  Age  of  Innocence,  ♦1259.  Anne,  Countess  of  Albemarle,  ^.Gg. 

'IfiJant  Samuel.  1460.  J.  C.  Ibbetson  (1759-1817),  Smugglers  on  the 
''  Irish  coast;  1290.  R.  Wilson,  Landscape;  78 A.  Reynolds,  Holy 
Family;  R,  Wilson,  304.  Lake  Avernus,  with  the  Bay  of  Naples  in 
the  distance,  301.  View  in  Italy.  —  Reynolds,  887.  Dr.  Johnson, 
b"88.  James  Boswell,  the  biographer  of  Johnson;  1067.  George  Mor- 
land  (d.  1804),  Quarry  with  peasants;  1223.  S.  Scott,  Old  West- 
minster Bridge ;  Reynolds,  107.  The  banished  lord,  *754.  Portrait, 
306.  Portrait  of  himself;  267.  R.  Wilson,  Landscape;  Reynolds, 
79.  The  Graces  decorating  a  terminal  figure  of  Hymen  (portraits  of 
the  daughters  of  Sir  W.  Montgomery),  889.  His  own  portrait;  1071. 
R.  WUson,  Landscape;  Reynolds,  2077.  Lady  Cockburn  and  her 
children,  891.  Portrait  of  a  lady;  1064,  303.  R.  Wilson,  Landscapes; 
Reynolds,  305.  Portrait,  886.  Admiral  Keppel,  892.  Robinetta,  said 
to  be  a  study  of  the  Hon.  Mrs.  Tollemache  (painted  about  1786) ; 
313.  8,  Scott,  Old  London  Bridge. 

Boom  XIX.  Older  British  School.  To  the  left  of  the  door 
leading  from  the  staircase :  1652.  Unknown  Painter  (16th  cent.), 
Catherine  Parr;  1402.  Henry  Morland  (d.  1797),  The  laundry-maid ; 
1491.  Allan  Ramsay  (son  of  the  poet;  1713-84),  Portrait;  Hogarth 
(1697-1764),  1935.  Portrait  of  Quin,  the  actor,  ♦1046.  Sigismonda 
mourning  over  the  heart  of  Guiscardo;  1224.  Hudson  (d.  1779), 
Scott,  the  painter;  1076.  Uriknown  Master,  Portrait,  supposed  to  be 
the  poet  Gay;  Hogarth,  1161.  Miss  Fenton  the  actress  as  VPoUy 
Peachum'  in  the  ^Beggars'  Opera',  675,  1663  (farther  on),  Portraits 
of  his  sisters,  112.  Portrait  of  himself;  *1249.  William  Dobson 
(1610-46 ;  the  ^English  Van  Dyck'),  Endymion  Porter,  Groom  of 
the  Bedchamber  to  Charles  I.;  A.  W.  Devis  (d.  1822),  Portrait  of 
Governor  Herbert  (lent  by  the  National  Portrait  Gallery);  1464. 
Hogarth,  Calais  Gate  ('The  roast  beef  of  Old  England');  1016.  Sir 
Peter  Lely  (d.  1680),  Girl  feeding  a  parrot;  Francis  Cotes  (d.  1770), 
1281.  Portrait  of  Mrs.  Brocas,  1943.  Portrait  of  Paul  Sandby,  R.  A.; 
Hogarth,  1162.  Shrimp  Girl,  1374.  The  painter's  servants.  — 1844. 
Sir  James  T/iomMW  (1676-1734),  A  scene  from  the  life  of  St.  Francis; 
Hogarth,  1153.  Family  group,  113-118.  Marriage  k  la  mode  (in  1750 
Hogarth  received  only  126i.  for  the  series,  which,  when  sold  again 
in  1794,  realised  138U.);  1670.  Sir  William  Beechey  (1763-1839), 
Portrait;  108.  WUson,  Landscape;  1198.  A66ot  (1760-1803),  Por- 
trait. —  120.  Beechey,  Nollekens,  the  sculptor;  110.  R.  Wilson,  Land- 
scape, with  figures;  1671.  Beechey,  Portrait  of  a  gentleman;  1403. 
Henry  Morland,  The  laundry- maid ;  1496.  John  Bettes  (portrait- 
painter;  d.  ca.  1573),  Portrait. 


The  West  End.     14.  NATIONAL  GALLERY.  195 

Room  XX.  British  School.  To  the  left,  on  enteriDg  from 
R.  XIX :  1272.  John  Constable  (one  of  the  foremost  English  land- 
scape-palnterB,  who  has  exercised  great  influence  on  the  modern 
French  school  of  landscape;  1776-1837),  The  Cenotaph  erected  in 
memory  of  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds  in  Coleorton  Park,  Leicestershire. 
Thomas  Qainsborough  (one  of  the  most  eminent  of  English  portrait- 
painters ;  1727-88),  1271.  Portrait,  ♦311. Rustic  children;  Constable, 
1246.  A  house  atHampstead,  1815,  Summer  afternoon  after  a  shower, 
1814.  Salisbury  Cathedral,  ♦ISOCornfleld,  1817.  The  gleaners,  ^' 
1821.  A  country  lane,  1818.  View  atEpsom,  1065.  Landscape,  *J2i^ 
Hay-wain.  1158.  Jamw  Ward  (d.  1859),  Harlech  Castle.  Constable, 
1819,  1820.  Landscapes  (small  sketches),  1822.  Dedham  Vale,  1816. 
The  mill  stream,  327.  The  valley  farm,  1066.  Landscape,  1813.  View 
on  Hampstead  HeaS^  1831 .  John  Crome  ('Old  Crome'  of  Norwich ; 
d.  1821),  Brathey  Bridge,  Cumberland ;  Constaftfe,  1823, 1274.  The 
glehe  farm  (two  versions  of  the  same  composition),"^ 1 2f3.  Flatford 
Mill;  Crome,  689.  Household  Heath  near  Norwich,  926.  Windmill ; 
1275.  Constable.  View  at  Hampstead.  —  1467.  R,  Ladfcroofrc(d.  1842), 
Landscape,  with  view  of  Oxford;  897.  Crome^  View  at  Chapelflelds, 
Norwich;  1658.  George  Lambert  (1710-65),  Landscape;  109.  Gains- 
borough^ The  watering-place;  119.  Sir  George  Beaumont  (1753- 
1827),  Landscape,  with  Jaques  and  the  wounded  stag;  1037.  Crome, 
Welsh  slate-quarries;  Gainsborough,  1174.  The  watering-place, 
925.  Landscape  in  Suffolk,  80.  The  market -cart,  310.  Land- 
scape, 309.  The  watering-place;  1111.  J.  S.  Cotman  (d.  1842), 
Wherries  on  the  Yare;  Gainsborough,  1811.  The  artist's  daughters, 
1485,  1486.  Landscapes ;  1487.  Zoffany[di.  1810),  Portrait  of  Gains- 
borough. —  Gainsborough,  678.  Study  for  a  portrait,  1044.  Portrait, 
*760.  Orpin,  parish-clerk  of  Bradford,  Wiltshire,  3C8.  Musidora, 
♦683.  Mrs.  Siddons,  1483.  Two  dogs,  1482.  Daughter  of  the  artist. 

Boom  XXI.  Bjiitish  School.  To  the  left :  1306.  Thomas  Barker 
(1769-1847),  Landscape;  229.  Gilbert  ^fuart  (1745-1828),  Portrait 
of  Benjamin  West,  P.R.A. ;  346.  Sir  A.  Callcott  (1779-1844),  En- 
trance to  Pisa  from  Leghorn;  Sir  David  Wilkie  (d.  1841),  *99.  The 
blind  fiddler,  122.  Village-festival;  1906.  George  RomneyXaTnyal 
of  Reynolds  antTGrainsborough;  1734-1802),  Portrait;  ♦1458.  Cotman, 
A  galiot  in  a  gale;  •1396.  Romrvey,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  William  Lindow; 
1830.  Thomas  Stothard  (1755-1834),  Shakespeare  characters;  1452. 
George  Stubbs  (1724-1806),  Landscape;  1667.  Romney,  Lady  and 
child;  1497.  George  Morland,  Rabbiting;  Romney,  1668.  Lady 
Hamilton  (sketch),  *312,  Lady  Hamilton  as  a  BacchantedLDOjJp/m 
8,  Copley,  R,A.  (b.  at  Boston,  Mass.,  in  1737;  d.  ifilBjr'tast 
public  appearance  of  the  Earl  of  Chatham,  who  fainted  in  en- 
deavouring to  speak  in  the  House  of  Peers  on  April  7th,  1778,  and 
died  a  month  later;  George  Morland,  1030j[nterior  of  a  stable,  1351. 
Door  of  a  village  inn;  Romnty,  lOO^The  parson's  daughter,  1669. 
Lady  Craven;  893.  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence  (1769-1830),  Princess 

13* 


196  14.   NATIONAL  GALLERY.     TheWestEnd, 

Lieven;  2056.  G.  Morland,  The  fortune-teller;  1163.  Stothard,  The 
Pilgrimage  to  Canterhury  (after  Chaucer);  iQ&JTWJfnney^  Portrait 
of  Mrs.  Mark  Currie;  1156.  George  Amald  (d.  1841),  On  the  Ouse, 
Yorkshire;  Turner  (see  below) ,^24^  ^i'^o  and  iEneas  leaving 
Carthage,  485.  View  of  Abingdon,  496.  Bligh  Sand.  —  Turner,  496. 
Apuleia  in  search  of  Apuleius,  483.  View  of  London  from  Green- 
wich, 486.  Windsor .mQ. Patrick  Nasmyth (1786-1831),  The  Severn 
off PoTtishead  -^HQ^STJohn  Millais  (1829-96),  Right  Hon.  W.  E. 
Gladstone;  1475.  C.  Brooking  (1723-69),  The  cilm;  1208.  John 
Opie  (d.  1807),  William  Godwin;  Lawrence,  1307.  Miss  Caroline 
Fry,  786.  Mrs.  Siddons;  900.  JohnHoppner  (1769-1810),  Countess 
of  Oxford;  899.  Thomas  Daniell  (1749-1840),  View  in  Bengal;  Sir 
Edwin  Landseer  (1802-73),  603.  Sleeping  bloodhound  (painted  in 
four  days),  606.  Shoeing  the  bay  mare;  1779.  R.WiUon,  River- 
scene  with  ruins ;  1837.  fifir//cnfy^ac6ufn  (1766-1823),  Portrait; 
1664.  G.  F.  Watts  (1817-1904),  Russell  Gurney,  late  Recorder  of 
London;  *604., Landaggn  Dignity  and  Impudence;  1167.  Opie,  Mary 
Wollstonecra?t  (Mrs.  Godwinl ;  1Q84.  PatWcfe  Nasmyth^  View  in 
Hampshire;  1941.  Millais,  Sir  flenry^hompson,  F.R.C.S.;  1836. 
Stothard,  Lady  reclining;  342.  CaUcott,  Landscape;  iS27 .  Stothard, 
Nymph  sleeping ;  409.  Landseer ^  King  Charles  spaniels;  784.  Opie, 
William  Siddons;  340.  CaUcott,  Dutch  peasants  returning  from 
market;  1175.  Jas.  Ward,  Regent's  Park  in  1807;  1039.  Thomas 
Barker,  Landscape;  124.  Jackson  (1778-1831),  Portrait. 

A  small  corner-room,  entered  from  tbe  passage  between  BR.  XXI  and 
XXII,  contains  small  works  by  William  Blake  (1757-1827),  Turner  (see  below), 
Hogarth,  StotJtard,  Nasmyth,  Wilkie,  CaUcott^  Gaintborough^  Constable^  and 
others.  Among  these  may  be  mentioned:  1110.  Blake,  Spiritual  form  of  Pitt 
guiding  Behemoth  (an  'iridescent  sketch  of  enigmatic  dream%  symbolising 
the  power  of  statesmanship  in  controlling  brute  force),  1164.  Procession  from 
Calvary.  —  Here  also  are  a  few  Miniaiwei  and  Turner's  palette. 

Boom  XXn  contains  an  admirable  collection  of  paintings  by 
J.  M.W.  rMrncr(l  775-1851),  the  greatest  English  landscape  painter 
(comp.  pp.  192,  252),  chiefly  bequeathed  by  the  artist  himself.  To 
the  left :  530.  Snowstorm,  steamboat  off  a  harbour  making  signals; 
370,  635,  544,  534.  Four  Venetian  pieces;  478.  Blacksmith's  shop 
(unlike  the  artist's  usual  style);  560.  Chichester  Canal;  813.  Fish- 
ing-boats in  a  breeze;  500.  The  field  of  Waterloo;  472.  Calais  pier, 
English  packet  arriving;  470.  Tenth  plague  of  Egypt;  480.  l»eath 
of  Nelson;  493.  The  ^Deluge;  ♦476.^ Shipwreck;  468.  Portrait  of 
the  artist;  559.  Petworth  Park ;  511.  Orvieto;  488.  Apollo  slaying 
the  Python;  477.  Garden  of  the  Hesperides;  513.  Vision  of  Medea ; 
516.  Childe  Harold's  Pilgrimage:  Italy;  473.  Holy  Family;  *497. 
Crossing  the  brook;  558.  Fire  at]^sea  (unfinished);  512.  Caligula's 
palace  and  bridge  at  Baias;  471.  Jason  ;  481.  Boat's  crew  recovering 
an  anchor  at  Spithead;  501.  Shipwreck  at  the  mouth  of  the  Meuse ; 
♦492.  Frosty  morning;  491.  Harvesters  at  Kingston;  506.  Dido  di- 
recting the  equipment  of  the  fleet  at  Carthage ;  *502.  Richmond 


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The  W(8t  End.     14.  NATIONAL  PORTRAIT  GALLERY.     197 

Hill ;  508.  Ulysses  deriding  Polyphemus ;  484.  St.  Mawes,  Cornwall ; 
505.  Apollo  and  the  Sibyl,  Bay  of  Baia;  474.  Destruction  of  Sodom ; 
•538.  Rain,  steam,  and  speed,  the  Great  Western  Railway ;  490. 
Snowstorm,  with  Hannibal  crossing  the  Alps;  468.  Clapham  Com- 
mon; USO.ClieTeden  on  Thames;  *528.  Burial  of  Sir  David  Wilkie 
at  sea;  465.  Mountain-scene;  561a.  Mountain -stream ;  536.  Fibhing- 
boats  towing  a  disabled  ship;  *524/The  'Fighting  Temeraire' towed 
to  her  last  berth  to  be  broken  up  (one  of  the  most  frequently  copied 
pictures  in  the  whole  gallery) ;  489.  Cottage  destroyed  by  an  ava- 
lanche; 369.  Prince  ofOrange  landing  at  Torbay;  548.  Queen  Mab's 
Grotto;  523.  Agrlppina  landing  with  the  ashes  of  Germanicus. 

15.  The  National  Portrait  Oallery. 

Adjoining  the  National  Gallery  on  the  N.E.  is  the  *♦  National 
Portrait  GaUery  (PI.  R,  26;  11%  erected  in  1890-95.  It  is  a  hand- 
some edifice  in  the  Italian  palatial  style,  designed  by  Mr,  Ewan 
Christian,  and  is  adorned  externally  with  busts  and  carving.  The 
entrance  (adm.,  see  p.  82)  is  on  the  E.  side,  facing  St.  Martinis  Place. 
The  cost  of  the  building  was  96,000^.,  of  which  80,000Z.  was  defrayed 
by  Mr,  W,  H.  Alexander,  the  remainder  by  Government.  The  direc- 
tor is  Mr,  Lionel  Cast,  Catalogue  (1903),  6d. 

The  collection,  which  was  founded  by  act  of  parliament  in  1856, 
now  contains  upwards  of  1200  portraits  of  men  and  women  eminent 
in  British  history,  literature,  art,  and  science,  and  deservedly  ranks 
among  the  most  interesting  sights  of  London.  The  present  building 
had  unfortunately  to  be  built  in  three  stories,  and  some  of  its  thirty 
odd  exhibition- rooms  are  small  and  not  too  weU  lighted.  The 
arrangement  and  numbering  of  the  rooms  are  also  somewhat  puzzling ; 
and  a  careful  study  of  the  plan  is  necessary.  The  pictures,  however, 
have  been  hung  with  great  taste  and  judgment;  on  the  upper  floor  a 
chronological  order  has  been  adhered  to,  while  downstairs  the  arrange- 
ment is  mainly  by  groups.  The  following  selection  of  the  most 
interesting  works  follows  a  chronological  order  as  far  as  possible  and 
begins  on  the  top  floor.  The  show-cases  scattered  throughout  the 
rooms  contain  engravings,  medals,  autographs,  and  the  like. 

From  an  artistic  point  of  view  the  finest  paintings  are  in  the  earlier 
rooms,  including  specimens  of  Van  Dyck,  Zucearo,  More,  Mierevelt,  Rey- 
nolds, Dobson,  Kneller,  Gainsborough,  Romney,  and  others.  The  falling 
off  is  particularly  noticeable  in  the  royal  portraits,  those  of  Queen  Victoria 
and  Prince  Albert  comparing  very  poorly  with  those  of  (e.g.)  the  Tudor 
period.  The  £ne  series  of  portraits  by  0.  F.  Watts  (p.  204),  however,  does 
something  to  redeem  the  mediocrity  of  the  Victorian  era. 

TOP  FLOOR. 

Room  I  (small)  contains  the  earliest  portraits  of  the  collection. 

Portraits  o{  Richard  II,  (1366-1400)  and  flenry /T.  (1366-1413), 

by  unknown  masters.   Facsimile  of  an  ancient  diptych  representing 

Richard  IL,  at  the  age  of  fifteen,  kneeling  before  the  Virgin  and  Child. 


198     16.  NATIONAL  PORTRAIT  GALLERY.     TheWest  End, 

Portrait  of  Oeofprey  Chaucer  (1340-1400).  Tracings  of  the  portraits 
of  Edward  III.  (1312-77)  and  his  family  formerly  on  the  E.  wall  of 
St.  Stephen's  Chapel,  Westminster  (date,  1356),  now  destroyed. 

Room  II,  chiefly  containing  portraits  of  the  Tudor  Period  (1485- 
1603).  To  the  left,  several  portraits  of  the  Plantagenet  period,  ex- 
ecuted at  a  later  date  and  of  little  artistic  value.  The  best  is  that  of 
Richard  III.  (1452-85) ,  in  the  act  of  putting  a  ring  on  his  finger, 
probably  by  a  Flemish  painter.  Henry  VIL  (1457-1609);  Catharine 
Howard  (1620-42),  by  a  pupil  of  Holbein ;  Henry  VIII.  (1491-1617), 
at  the  age  of  fifty-three,  an  early-Flemish  copy  of  the  portrait  by 
Luke  Horebout  at  Warwick  Castle;  Cardinal  Wbi«ei/ (1471-1630),  a 
crude  performance,  probably  after  an  Italian  original ;  Thomas  Cran- 
m«f ,  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  (1489-1556),  by  Gerlacus  Flicius  ; 
Sir  Thomas  More  (1478-1636);  Lady  Jane  Orey  (1637-541  a  small 
work  by  Lucas  de  Heere;  two  portraits  of  Edward  VI.  (1537-63),  in 
the  manner  of  Holbein;  Queen  Mary  I.  (1616-68);  Ridley  (d.l566) 
and  Latimer  (d.  1665) ;  WiUiam  Herbert,  Earl  of  Pembroke  (1507-69), 
several  portraits  of  Queen  Elizabeth  (1633-1603);  portraits  of  the 
Earl  of  Essex  (d.  1601),  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  (d.  1618),  and  the  Earl 
of  Leicester  (1632-88;  by  Fed.  Zuccaro);  *Sir  Thomas  Oresham 
(1619-79),  founder  of  the  Royal  Exchange  (p.  115),  by  Sir  Anthony 
More;  Foxe  (1616-87),  author  of  the  'Book  of  Martyrs' ;  Sir  Henry 
Unton  (d.  1596),  a  curious  work  with  scenes  from  his  life,  by  an 
unknown  painter;  John  Knox  (1506-72),  the  Scottish  Reformer; 
portrait  of  the  ^Judicious  Hooker^  (d.  1600) ;  Peter  Martyr  VermUius 
of  Florence  (d.  1662),  preacher  of  the  Reformation  at  Oxford,  by 
Hans  Asper  of  Zurich ;  two  portraits  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots  (1642- 
87),  one  after  Clouet,  the  other  by  Oudry ;  Mary  of  Lorraine  (1616-60), 
mother  of  Mary  Stuart,  long  supposed  to  be  a  portrait  of  the  latter 
(so-called  Fraser-Tytler  portrait). 

Room  III  (Early  Stuarts;  1603-49).  King  James  I.  (1567- 
1625);  Jamts  VI.  of  Scotland  at  the  age  of  eight,  by  Zuccaro; 
oil-portrait  of  Shakspeare  (the  Chandos  portrait).  In  the  case  be- 
low are  an  engraving  from  the  first  folio  edition  of  the  plays  (1623), 
a  photograph  of  a  portrait  of  Shakspeare  in  the  Memorial  Gallery 
at  Stratford-on-Avon,  a  photograph  of  his  monument  in  the  church 
there,  and  specimens  of  his  signature.  BenJonson(6..  1637) ;  Michael 
Drayton  J  the  poet  (d.  1631);  James  J.,  in  the  royal  robes,  by  Van 
Somer;  Lord  Chancellor  Bacon  (1561-1626),  byVanSomer;  'Group 
of  eleven  statesmen,  assembled  at  Somerset  House  in  1604  to  ratify 
a  commercial  treaty  between  England,  Spain,  and  Austria,  by  Mar- 
cus Gheeraedts,  a  fine  work ;  Sir  Edward  Coke  (d.  1634),  the  famous 
legal  authority,  by  Cornelius  Janssens  van  Ceulen;  *Endymion  Porter, 
confidant  of  Charles  I.  (1587-1649),  by  Dobson;  CounUss  of  Pem- 
broke (d.  1621),  by  Gheeraedts; -Sir  Joftfi/SfttcWinp  (1609-41),  after 
Y&iiDyc^,  Robert  Cecil,  FirstEarlof  Salisbury  (A.  iQi2)',  SirDudley 
Carleton,  ViscourU  Dorchester  (1674-1632),  and  his  wife,  by  Miere- 


ThtWeitEnd.     15.  NATIONAL  PORTRAIT  GALLERY.     199 

-velt.  The  adjoining  caae  contains  small  portraits  of  Drummond  of 
Hawthomden^  James  F/.,  Robert  Carr^  Earl  of  Somerset  (d.  1646),  and 
Robert  CecUy  First  Earl  of  Salisbury.  Phineas  Pett  (1670-1647), 
master-builder  of  the  navy,  by  Dobson;  Francis  QuarUs  (1592- 
1644),  by  Dobson;  Earl  of  Newport  (1697-1665)  and  Lord  Goring 
(1608-1667),  by  W.  Dobson ;  Earl  of  Strafford  (d.  1641),  after  Van 
Dyck;il6p.  Laud  (1673-1646),  after  Van  Dyck ;  Children  of  Charles  I., 
early  copy  of  a  well-known  work  by  Van  Dyck  (see  p.  427) ;  Charles  I. 
(1600-49),  by OldStone, after VanDyck;  8irKenelmDighy(jl.iQQ6), 
by  Van  Dyck;  *Oeorge  ViUiers,  First  Duke  of  Buckingham  (d.  1628), 
and  bis  family,  by  Hontborst;  Richard  Weston^  First  Earl  of  Portland 
(1577-1636),  by  Com.  Janssens  van  Ceulen;  Sir  Thomas  Roe  (1581- 
1644),  by  Mierevelt;  John  Selden,  the  antiquary  (1684-1664); 
WiUiam  Dobson  (1610-46),  a  follower  of  Van  Dyck  and  the  first 
native  English  portrait-painter  of  any  eminence,  by  himself;  Sir 
Anthony  van  Dyck  (1699-1641),  by  himself.  In  the  case  below  is  a 
miniature  of  Queen  Elizabeth. 

Room  IV  (Commonwealth;  1649-60).  Queen  Elizabeth  of  Bo- 
hemia (d.  1662),  by  Hontborst  and  by  Mierevelt ;  Frederick  V.  of 
Bohemia  (1696-1632),  by  Mierevelt;  Jnigo  Jones^  the  architect 
(1573-1652),  by  Old  Stone,  after  Van  Dyck ;  Oliver  CromweU  (1699- 
1668),  by  Robert  Walker;  case  with  photographs  of  portraits  of  Oliver 
Cromwell;  Jreton  (1611-51),  by  Walker;  Oliver  Cromwell  at  the  age 
of  fifty-eight,  by  an  unknown  painter;  Milton  (1608-74),  by  Van  der 
Plaas ;  portraits  of  Baxter ^  Marvel,  Cocker  (the  arithmetician  who 
lives  in  the  phrase  ^according  to  Cocker' ;  comp.  p.  378),  and  Sir 
Matthew  Hale, 

Room  V  (Charles  II. ;  1660-86).  Portraits  of  Samuel  ButUr  by 
E.  Lutterel,  and  the  poet  Waller  by  Riley ;  Isaac  Barrow^  by  Claude 
le  Ffevre;  John  Owen;  Thomas  Hobbes,  the  philosopher  (d.  1679), 
by  J.  M.  Wright ;  Abp.  Tillotson  by  Mrs.  Beale ;  George  Monck,  Duke 
of  Albemarle,  by  Sir  Peter  Lely;  Sir  Peter  Lely,  by  himself;  WiUiam, 
Lord  RushU,  by  Riley ;  Algernon  Sidney ,  by  Justus  van  Egmont : 
Archbp.  Sancroft,  by  E.  Lutterel;  A,  A.  Cooper,  First  Earl  of  Shaftes- 
bury,  by  J.  Greenhill;  Prince  Rupert,  by  Lely;  Charles  II.,  by  Mrs. 
Beale;  Wycherley  and  several  other  male  portraits  by  Lely;  Sam. 
Pepys,  by  John  Hayls ;  *George  Villiers,  Second  Dvke  of  Buckingham 
(d.  1687),  by  Lely;  Cowley,  by  Mrs.  Beale;  Dryden,  by  Kneller.  On 
a  stand  in  the  centre :  distorted  portrait  oiEdxcard  VI,  (comp.  p.  198), 
to  be  viewed  through  the  aperture  in  the  screen  on  the  right. 

Room  VI  (Charles  IL  and  James  H.;  1660-1688).  Col.  Blood 
(see  p.  133),  by  Soest;  *John  Bunyan  (1628-88),  at  the  age  of  56, 
by  Thos.  Sadler;  portraits  of  Nell  Gwynne,  Mary  Davis,  the  actress. 
La  Belle  Hamilton,  and  other  beauties,  by  Sir  Peter  Lely:  the 
Countess  of  Shrewsbury,  by  the  same  artist ;  haak  Walton  (1 593-1  d83), 
by  Jacob  Huysman ;  Saint  Evremond  (see  p.235),  by  Parmentier;  Locke, 
the  philosopher,  by  Brownover  and  after  KneUer;  Mary  of  Modena, 


200     16.  NATIONAL  PORTRAIT  GALLERY.    The  West  End. 

second  wife  of  James  II.,  by  Wissing;  James  II.  (1633-1701),  by 
Riley;  Duchess  of  Cleveland ^  by  Kiieller(V);  Duke  of  Monmouth,  by 
Lely;  Robert  Boyle,  by  Kerseboom. 

UooM  YII  (Busts  and  Engravings).  Engravings  of  various  worthies 
of  the  17th  century.  Busts  of  CoUey  Cibber  (1671-1767),  attributed 
to  Roubiliac  (realistically  painted),  CromweUy  by  E.  Pierce  and  by 
an  unknown  artist  (latter  in  bronze),  and  John  Hampden  (terra- 
cotta; artist  unknown). 

Room  VIII  (William  UI.;  1688-1702).  Lord  Chancellor  Jeffreys, 
by  Kneller;  Sir  Isaac  Ntwton  (1642-1727),  by  Vanderbank  and  by 
R.  Walker;  *8ir  Chiistopher  Wren,  the  architect  of  St.  Paul's  Cathe- 
dral (1632-1723),  by  Kneller;  John  Lati>  (1671-1729),  by  BeUe; 
H,  Purcell  (1668-1695),  by  Klosterman ;  Mury  II,,  by  Gasp.  Ketschcr ; 
Mary  II.,  by  Wising;  Earl  of  Halifax  (1661-1716),  Karl  of  Rochester 
(d.  1711),  both  by  Kneller;  William  SomervdU  (1675-1742),  the 
poet,  ascribed  to  Kneller. 

Room  IX  (Queen  Anne;  1702-14).  J^^nalUn Suift  (1667-1745), 
by  0.  Jervas;  W.  Congreve  (d.  1729),  by  KneUer;  Alexander  Foye 
(1688-1744),  crayon  by  Hoare;  Qay,  uutinished  sketch  by  Kneller; 
Pope,  by  Kneller;  Joseph  AddUjn  (1672-1719),  old  copy  of  the  *kit- 
cat'  portrait  by  Kneller;  Bentley,  by  Thomhill;  Steele,  by  Richard- 
son ;  Viscount  Bolingbroke,  the  statesman  (1678-1761),  by  H.  Rigaud ; 
William,  First  Earl  Cowper  (1665-1723),  by  Kneller;  Duke  of  Marl- 
borough, by  Klosterman  and  by  Kneller  (the  latter  treated  allegoric- 
ally);  portraits  of  Queen  Anne;  Duchess  of  Marlborough,  by  Kneller; 
Admiral  Rooke  (1660-1709),  by  Dahl;  Bwft op  Cerfcc^y  (1684-1 768), 
by  Smibert;  James  Thomson,  the  poet  (d.  1748),  by  Paton;  Joseph 
Addison  (see  above),  by  Dahl;  Matthew  iVior  (1664-1721),  the  poet, 
by  Hudson,  after  Richardson. 

Room  X  (The  Pretenders).  President  Duncan  Forbes  of  Cullo- 
den  (1685-1747) ;  Pnnce  James,  the  Old  Pretender  (1688-1766),  by 
Mengs  arid  by  Belle;  Prince  Charles  Edward,  the  Young  Pretender 
(1720-88),  and  his  wife,  the  Countess  of  Albany  (d.  1824),  small 
portraits  by  Battonl;  his  brother.  Cardinal  York  (d.  1807),  by  Rosalba 
Garriera ;  other  portraits  of  the  Pretenders  and  Card.  York ,  by  Lar- 
giUiftre  and  by  Battoui;  Dr.  Isaac  Watts  (1674-1748),  by  Kneller; 
Edward  Young  (1684-1765),  author  of  *Night  Thoughts'. 

Room  XI  (George  I.  and  II.;  1714-60).  Handel,  the  composer 
(d.  1759),  by  Hudson  and  (terracotta  bust)  by  Roubiliac.  Chailes 
Boyle,  Fourth  Earl  of  Orrery,  by  Jervas ;  Earl  of  Chesterfield  (1694- 
17731  by  Allan  Ramsay,  and  another  by  Hoare;  Lord  Lyttelton 
(1709-73);  Chas.  SackwilU,  Sixth  Earl  of  Dorset,  by  Kneller;  Robert 
Harley,  Earl  of  Oxford,  after  Kneller;  Thomas  Gray,  by  Eccardt 
An  adjoining  case  has  small  portraits  and  autographs  of  Gray  and 
Horace  Walpole.  Horace  Walpole,  by  Eccardt  and  by  Hone;  Sir  Robert 
Walpole,  by  J.  B.  Van  Loo;  Oeorge  Washington,  by  Gilbert  Stuart; 
Wm.  Hogarth,  the  painter  (1697-1764),  by  himself;  CommitUe  of  the 


The  West  End.    l5.  NATIONAL  PORTRAIT  GALLERY.      201 

House  of  Commons  at  the  FUtt  Prison  (1729),  by  Hogarth;  *8imon 
Fraser,  Lord  Lovat  (p.  136),  by  Hogartb;  Bust  of  W.  Hogarth,  by 
Roubillac;  Sir  Hans  Stoane  (j^.*i>9i\  by  Slaugbter;  Samuel  Richardson 
(1689-1761),  by  Highmore;  Roubiliae,  by  Carpentiers. 

Room  XII  (Corridor  with  large  portraits).  Pope  and  Martha 
Blount,  by  Jervas;  Anthony  Leiyh  (d.  1692),  as  the  'Spanish  Friar', 
by  Kneller;  Philip  II,  of  Spain,  by  Coello;  James  II,,  by  Kneller; 
Henry,  Prince  of  Wales  (1594-1612),  by  Van  Somer;  Queen 
Henrietta  Maria  (^1609-69),  in  the  style  of  Van  Dyck;  Charles  I. 
(1600-49),  by  Mytens;  WiUiam  III.,  by  Wyck;  Lord  Mansfield 
(1706-93),  by  Copley;  Sir  Wm,  HamiUon  (1730-1803),  by  Sir 
Joshua  Reynolds ;  Shenstone,  by  Alcock.  —  Bust  of  Thomas  Qray, 
by  Bacon. 

Room  XIII  (Staircase  Landing ;  Royal  Portraits).  Various  royal 
portraits  by  Hudson,  Jervas,  etc.  —  Bust  of  Newton,  by  Baily,  after 
Roubillac. 

At  the  foot  of  the  fli  st  half  of  the  staircase,  on  either  side :  right, 
^Old  Parr\  the  centenarian  (see  p.  236),  after  Honthorst;  left,  Dr, 
WiUiam  Harvey  (1578-1667),  discoverer  of  the  circulation  of  the 
blood. 

FIRST  FLOOR. 

Room  XIV  (18th  century;  Divines,  Philosophers,  etc.).  Dr. 
Erasmus  Ddncin  (1731-1802),  by  Wright  of  Derby;  SamuelJohnson 
(1709-84),  by  Reynolds,  by  James  Barry  (unfinished),  and  by  Opie ; 
Olicer  Goldsmith  (1728-74),  by  a  pupil  of  Reynolds,  a  portrait 
familiar  through  engravings;  Sir  Richard  Arkwright,  the  inventor 
(1732-92),  by  Wright;  Benjamin  Franklin  (1706-90),  by  Baricolo; 
John  Wesley  (1703-91),  at  the  age  of  63,  by  Hone,  and  another,  at 
the  age  of  85,  by  Hamilton ;  Bust  of  Wesley,  by  an  unknown  artist ; 
Dr.  PaUy,  by  Beechey;  George  Whitefield,  the  preacher  (d.l770),  by 
Woolaston;  A6p.  iSecfccr,  after  Reynolds;  Bust  of  Samuel  Johnson, 
sijulptured  by  Baily  from  an  earlier  bust ;  Sir  Philip  Francis  (1740- 
1818),  by  Lonsdale. 

Room  XV  fStatesmen  and  Politicians).  ♦  W,  Pulteney ,  Earl  of 
Bath  (1682-1764),  by  Reynolds,  vigorously  handled.   To  the  right : 

Warren  Hastings  (1732-1818),  by  Sir  Thos.  Lawrence,  and  another 
by  Tilly  Kettle;  WilUam  Pitt,  first  Eari  of  Chatham  (1708-78),  by 
Hoare;  Edmund  Burke  (1729-97),  by  Reynolds;  •CharUs  James  Fox 
(1749-1806),  by  Hickel;  R,  B.  Sheridan  (1751-1816),  by  Russell; 

WilUam  Pitt  the  Fown^cr  (1759-1806),  by  Hoppner;  two  portraits 
of  Lord  Chancellor  Tkurlow  (1732-1806),  by  Phillips;  J. P.  Curran 
(1760-1817).  —  Busts  ^f  WiUiam  Pitt  and  CharUs  James  Fox,  by 
Nollekens;  of  Canning,  t>y  Chantrey,  etc. 

Room  XVI  (Actors  and  Dramatists).  Opposite  the  entrance  from 
R.  XV:  David  Garrick  (1717-79),  by  Pine  and  by  Luke  Sullivan; 
iir«m6fe  (1767-1823),  the  tragedian,  by  Gilbert  Stuart  ;Pcsf  Woffington 


202      15.  NATIONAL  PORTRAIT  GALLERY.    TheWeslEnd. 

(1720-60),  the  actress,  painted  as  she  lay  in  bed  paralysed,  by  A, 
Pond;  Edmund  Kean  (1787-1833),  by  Sam.  John  Stump;  Mrs. 
Siddons  (d.  1831),  by  Beechey ;  opposite,  above,  Joseph  Qrimaldi^  the 
famous  clown  (1779-1837),  by  Cawse.  —  Bust  of  Qarrich  (p.  201). 

Room  XVII  (Artists)  is  divided  into  three  sections  by  partitions. 
Ist  Section :  Busts  of  Sir  Charles  Easilake  (d.  1866),  by  Gibson,  and 
Wm.  Etty  (d.  1849),  by  Noble.  Portraits  of  William  Blake  (d.  1827) 
and  of  Chqntrey  (1781-1841),  by  Phillips ;  portraits  of  Landseer, 
John  Gibsony  the  sculptor  (1790-1866),  and  Lawrence  f  John  Flax- 
man  (1755-1826),  by  Romney ;  Lord  Leighton  (1830-96),  by  Watts ; 
John  Opie  (1761-1807),  by  himself;  NoUekens  (1737-1823),  by  Ab- 
bott ;  Watts  (1817-1904),  by  himself  (unfinished).  —  2nd  Section : 
Sir  David  Wilkie  (1785-1841),  by  himself ;  John  Leech  {iSi7-U), 
by  Millais;  Daniel  MacVse  (d.  1870);  C.  S.  Keene  (1823-91),  by 
Walton  Corbould;  Chantrey  (1781-1841),  by  himself  (chalk);  Sir 
John  Millais  (1829-96),  by  Keene  (pen-and-ink  sketch);  I>.  Q, 
Rossetti  (1828-82),  drawn  in  pencil  by  himself  in  1846;  Ford  Madox 
Brown  (1821-93),  by  Rossetti  (pencil);  J.  M.  W.  Turner  (1776- 
1851),  by  Chas.  Turner,  by  Chas.  Martin,  and  by  himself  (miniature) ; 
Patrick  Nasmyth(i7S7ASM),  by  Bewick;  Constable  (1776-1837), 
by  Macllse  and  by  himself  (lead-pencil) ;  Geo.  Morland  (1763-84), 
a  drawing  and  a  painting  by  himself.  —  3rd  Section:  Busts  of  Sir 
Thos.  Lawrence  (d.  1830),  by  Baily,  and  Benjamin  West  (d.  1820), 
by  Chantrey.  Portraits  of  Gainsborough  (d.  1788),  by  himself;  Sir 
Joshua  Reynolds^  two  portraits  by  himself;  Wright  o/Dcr6i/ (1734-97), 
by  himself;  Reynolds^  Chambers,  and  Wilton,  group  by  J.  F.  Rigaud ; 
James  Barry  (1741-1806),  by  himself;  Benjamin  Westj  by  Gilbert 
Stuart;  Romney  (d.  1802),  by  himself  (unfinished);  Angelica Kauff- 
mann  (d.  1807),  by  herself. 

XVIII.  Central  Corridob  (Miscellaneous).  On  the  right:  Sir 
Henry  Irving  (1838-1905),  by  MUlais ;  John  Howard  (d.  1790),  by 
Mather  Brown;  Sir  Rowland  Hill  (1795-1879),  by  Vinter;  Lord 
Campbell  (d.  1861),  by  Woolnoth.  —  Opposite  as  we  return:  Sydney 
fifrm't7i(1771.1845),byBriggs;Jo«cp/»HMmc(1777-1855),  by  Walton; 
*  Jeremy  Bentham,  the  economist  and  political  writer  (d.  1832),  by 
T.  Frye  (another  opposite,  by  H.  W.  Pickersgill) ;  Bishop  Colenso 
(d.  1883);  CharUsBabbageiilQI'iSli),  inventor  of  the  calculating 
machine,  by  S.  Laurence;  Herbert  Spencer  (1820-1903),  by  Burgess. 

Room  XIX  (Artists,  Men  of  Science,  etc.).  To  the  left  of  the 
door:  Portraits  of  Cruikshankj  Bewick,  and  other  artists.  Farther 
on:  Sir  John  Soane  (p.  208),  by  Jackson;  Pugin  (1812-52),  the 
architect;  Charles  Dib din  (^A.  1814),  by  Phillips;  Afacp^crson ('Ossian'; 
1736-96),  by  a  pupil  of  Reynolds;  William  Wood/aW  (1745-1803), 
the  printer  of  the  'Letters  of  Junius',  by*Beach ;  Tobias  Smolett 
(1721-71) ;  Family  of  Adam  Walker,  by  Romney. 

Room  XX  (Men  of  Science,  etc.).  Left:  John  i/omc  (1722-1808), 
author  of 'Douglas',  by  Raeburn;  Dr.Jenner  (d.  1823),  discoverer  of 


TheWestEnd.    15.  NATIONAL  PORTRAIT  GALLERY.     203 

the  protective  propeities  of  vaccination ,  by  Northcote;  John  Hunter 
(1728-93),  after  Sir  J.  Reynolds;  *Jame$  Watt  (1736-1819),  by 
0.  F.  de  Breda;  Sir  William  Herschel  (1738-1822), by  Abbott;  Mungo 
Park  (1771-1806),  miniature  after  Edridge.  —  In  tie  centre,  Benja- 
min Disraeli,  statuette  by  Lord  Ronald  Gower. 

Room  XXI  (Screen  Room;  Female  Portraits,  Drawings,  Sketches, 
etc.).  Ist  Section:  Hannah  More,  by  Pickersgill;  Ann  Taylcr  (Afrs. 
Oilbert;  1782-1866)  and  Jane  Taylor  (1783-1824),  by  their  father, 
Isaac  Taylor ;  Mn.  Fry^  after  Leslie ;  Lady  Hamilton,  by  Romney ; 
Mrs,  Trimmer  (1741-1810),  by  Henry  Howard;  Harriet  Martineau, 
by  Evans ;  Ma/ry  Mitford,  by  Lucas ;  Mary  Shelley ;  Jane  and  Anna 
Maria  Porter  (1776-1850  and  1780-1832),  by  Harlow  (crayons); 
Christina  Rossetti  (1830-94)  and  her  mother,  drawing  by  Dante 
Rossetti;  Marian  Evans  (George  Eliot)  and  her  father,  by  Mrs. 
Charles  Bray  (1842);  George  Eliot  (Mrs.  Cross;  d.  1880),  drawing  by 
Sir  F.  W. Burton;  Robert  Browning  (d.  1889)  and  Mrs^  Browning 
(d.  1861),  two  chalk  drawings  by  Talfourd;  Afr.  and  3fr«.  Piozzi  (Mrs. 
ThraU;  d.  1809  and  1821),  by  Geo.  Dance ;  two  portraits  of  Charlotte 
Bronte  {Mrs.  Nicholls;  1816-55);  Jane  Welsh  CarlyU  (1801-66),  by 
Sam.  Laurence;  Mary  Somerville  (1780-1872),  in  crayons,  by 
Swinton.  —  2nd  Section:  Thos.  Hood  (1799-1845)  and  his  wife; 
Charles  Lamb  (1775-1834),  probably  by  Henry  Meyer;  Leigh  Hunt 
(1784-1869),  by  Margaret  Gillies ;  Wm.  Cowper  (1731-1800),  by 
Harvey,  after  Abbot;  Edward  Fitzgerald  (1809-83),  posthumous 
miniature  by  Mrs.  Rivett  Camac;  Tennyson,  by  Arnault;  Lamb, 
Coleridge,  Southey,  and  Wordsworth,  four  small  drawings  in  one 
frame,  by  Hancock ;  James  Hogg  (d.  1833),  the  *Ettrick  Shepherd',  by 
Denning ;  James  BosweU  (1740-95)  and  Samuel  Rogers  (1763-1855), 
by  Dance;  Robert  Louis  Stevenson  (1850-94),  by  P.  F.  S.  Spence 
(pencil-drawing;  1893).  Under  the  window,  Charles  and  Henry 
Kingsley,  by  W.  S.  Hunt.  —  3rd  Section :  Wellington,  at  the  age  of 
thirty-five;  Nelson,  by  Edridge;  the  Marquis  of  Grariby  (1721-70), 
by  Sir  J.  Reynolds ;  Wolfe,  facsimile  of  a  sketch  made  at  Quebec  in 
1759;  Sir  Robert  Peel  (1788-1850),  by  Linnell;  W.  Wilber force,  the 
philanthropist  (d.  1833),  by  Sir  T.  Lawrence  (unfinished);  Henry 
Grattan  (i7AQ-iS20),  byWheatley;  Lord  Palmerston  (1784-1865) 
at  the  age  of  eighteen ;  Priestley  (1733-1804),  by  Mrs.  Sharpies ; 
Daniel  O'ConneU  (d.  1847),  by  Mulrenin;  John  Wilkes  (1727-97), 
by  Earlom ;  George  Washington,  by  Mrs.  Sharpies  (crayon).  Under  the 
window.  Rev.  Ed.  Irving  (1792-1834),  founder  of  the  Irvingite  or 
Catholic  Apostolic  Church,  drawing  by  Slater;  David  Livingstone 
(1813-73),  sketch  from  life  by  Bonomi.  —  Busts  of  Afr«.  Hemans 
(1793-1835;  Fletcher),  Mrs.  Jameson  (1794-1860;  Gibson),  Miss 
AmeUa  Edwards  (1832-92;  Ball),  and  Grace  Darling  (1815-42; 
Dunbar). 

XXII.  Corridor  (Miscellaneous  Busts  and  Portraits).  Lord 
Brougham  (1778-1868),  by  Lonsdale;  Francia  Corner,  the  politician 


204     16.  NATIONAL  POKTKAIT  GALLERY.    The  West  End. 

and  essayist,  one  of  the  founders  of  the  'Edlnbnrgh  Review^  (1778- 
1817),  by  Sir  Henry  Raeburn;  Bust  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington 
(d.l852),  by  Francis  J  George  Orote  (1794-1871),  the  historian  of 
Greece,  by  Stewardson;  Sir  Wm  ^Bku:k8tone(d,  1780),  by  Reynolds  j 
bronze  btatuette  of  Baron  Marochelti  (1806-67),  by  Ambrosio ;  busts 
of  Cobden  (by  Woolner)  and  Sir  Rchert  Peel  (by  Noble).  On  screens, 
portraits  in  chalk  by  George  Richmond  (Lzd(ion,JSr(c6^Pusq/,/?o^er5, 
Newman,  Ruakin,  etc.).  —  David  Livingstone  (d.  1873),  by  F.  Havill ; 
General  Gordon  (1833-86),  drawing  by  Edward  Clifford. 

XXIII.  Landing.  Full-length  portraits  of  Kemble  and  Mrs.  Sid- 
donSj  by  Sir  Thos.  Lawrence.  —  Busts  of  Dovglas  Jerrold  (d.  1857), 
by  BaUy;  of  CharUa  Knight  (d.  1873),  by  Durham;  and  of  Thomaa 
Moore  (d.  1862),  by  C.  Moore. 

We  now  descend  a  few  steps  to  another  landing,  from  which  we 
enter  the  East  Wing  of  the  First  Floor. 

XXIV.  Landing  (Royal  Portraits).  WilUam,  Luke  of  Curnbtr- 
land  (d.  1766),  by  Reynolds;  Prince  Albert  (d.  1861),  by  Winter- 
halter;  Queen  Victoria  (d.  1901)  in  her  coronation  robes,  by  Sir 
G.  Ha>ter;  Queen  Victoria  at  the  ages  of  66  and  80,  both  after  Angeli ; 
George  II J.  (1738-1820),  by  Allan  Ramsay;  Queen  Charlotte  (1744- 
1818),  wife  of  George  III.,  by  Ramsay. 

The  short  passage  leading  from  this  landing  to  R.  XXY  contains 
busts  of  Scott  (Chantrey),  B.  W.  Proctor  (Foley),  Tennyson  (Miss 
Grant),  and  Southey  (Lough),  and  paintings  of  Lord  NeLon  (after 
Guzzardi)  and  Lord  John  Russell  (by  Watts). 

Room  XXV  (Literary,  Military,  and  Naval).  Wili.am  Godwin 
(1766-1836),  by  Northcote;  Cowper,  by  Romney;  Robert  BurT,$ 
(d.  1796),  by  Nasmyth,  weU  known  from  engravings;  Sir  Walter 
Scott^d.  1832),  in  his  study  at  Abbotsford,  with  his  deer-hound  Malda, 
by  Sir  Wm.  Allan,  the  last  portrait  he  sat  for  (another  by  Landseer) ; 
Lord  Byron  (d.  1824),  in  Albanian  costume,  by  T.  Phillips,  and 
another  (over  the  door)  by  Westall;  Shelley  (1792-1821),  by  Miss 
Amelia  Curran  and  another  painted  from  this  portrait  by  George 
Clint;  John  Keati  (d.  1821),  by  Severn  (another,  by  Hilton,  over  the 
door);  Wilkie  Collins  (d.  1889),  by  Millais;  Thomas  Moore (1719- 
1852),  by  John  Jackson;  George  Crabhe  (d.  1832),  by  Pickersgill; 
Southey  (d.  1843),  by  Peter  Vand>ke;  -Sf.  T.  Coleridye  (d.  1834), 
by  Peter  Vandyke ;  Charles  Dickens  (d.  1870),  by  Maclise.  —  Fine 
series  of  portraits  by  G.  F.  Watts :  Sir  Henry  Taylor,  D.  G.  Rcasetti, 
Sir  Ant.  Panizzi,  Matt.  Arnold,  Tennyson^  Browning ^  Card.  Manning, 
Lord  Lawrence,  J.  S.  Mill,  William  Morris,  W.  E.  H.  Lecky,  Carlyle, 
Frederick,  First  Marquess  of  Dufferin  and  Ava,  Robert,  Third 
Marquess  of  Salitbury,  the  Earl  of  Shaftesbury,  George,  Eighth  Duke 
of  Argyll,  Dr.  Martineau,  Lord  John  Russell,  Gladstone,  Lord  Strat- 
ford de  RedcUffe,  Dean  Milman,  and  Lord  Lytton.  —  Then,  in  the 
row  above:  Chcs.  and  Mary  Lartib,  by  Gary;  Coleridge,  by  Allston; 
Thos.  CampbeU  (d.  1844),  by  Lawrence;    W.  S.  Landor  (d,  1864), 


ThtWesiEnd.    15.  NATIONAL  PORTRAIT  GALLERY.     205 

by  Fisher;  Robert  Browning  (d.  1889),  by  Lebmann;  Sir  Arthur 
Stdlivan  (d.  1900").  by  Millals;  CharUt  Vickena,  by  Ary  Scheffer; 
B'jtlwer  Lytton  (1803-73),  by  H.  Pickersgill;  Coventry  Patmore 
(d.  1896),  by  J.  S.  Sargent;  Thomas  CarlyU  (d.  1881),  by  MUIais; 
Thomat  de  Quineey  (1785-1869),  by  Sir  John  Watson  Gordon.  -— 
Above  these  another  series  by  Watts;  Robert  Lowe  (Lord  Sher- 
brooke),  Sir  Charles  HalU  (d.  1895),  Sir  John  Peter  Orant,  Max 
Mailer^  Lord  Lyndhurst,  and  Sir  Andrew  Clarke;  also,  W,  M. 
Thackeray  (d.  1863),  by  8.  Lanrence;  Theodore  Hook  (d.  1841),  by 
Eddis.  —  Beside  the  door:  Sir  Richard  Burton  (d.  1890),  by  Lord 
Leighton;  Fred.  Denison  Maurice  (d.  1872),  by  S.  Laurence;  Card. 
Newman  (d.  1890),  by  Miss  E.  Deane.  Over  the  door:  Cecil  John 
Rhodes  (1853-1902),  by  Watts  (nnflnished) ;  R.  L.  Stevemon 
(d.  1894),  by  Richmond.  —  On  the  W.  wall  are  various  military 
and  naval  celebrities,  including  Lord  Clive  (d.  1774),  by  Dance; 
Lord  Heathfield  (d.  1790),  by  J.  S.  Copley;  Oeneral  Wolfe  (1726- 
69),  by  Schaak;  Lord  Nelson  (d.  1805),  by  L.  J.Abbott  and  by 
H.  Fiiger  of  Vienna.  On  a  screen :  John  Ruikin  (d.  1900),  by 
Herkomer  (water-colour);  Cowper^  by  Romney.  —  In  the  centre 
are  busts  of  Lord  Byron  (by  BaitoUni),  Captain  Cook,  Porson,  and 
Richard  Jeff er its,  a  statuette  of  Thackeray,  a  medallion  of  Adam 
Smith,  an  electrotype  bust  of  Thackeray  as  a  boy,  and  an  electrotype 
mask  of  John  Keats. 

Room  XXVI  (Military  and  Naval).  To  the  right:  Sir  Sidney  Smith 
(d.  1841),  by  Eckstein ;  ^dmira^  Lord  Lyons  (d.  1858),  by  G.F.  Watts; 
the  Duke  of  Wellington,  by  the  Count  d'Orsay;  Sir  John  Moore  (1761- 
1809),  by  Lawrence;  Qen,  Gordon  (1833-85),  by  Leo  Diet;  Sir 
James  Outram  (d.  1863),  by  Brigstocke;  Marquis  Wellesley  (d.  1842), 
by  J.P.Davis. 

Room  XXVII  (Scientific  and  Literary).  Sir  David  Brewster  (1781- 
1868),  by  Watson  Gordon;  Capt.  Marryatt  (1792-1848),  by  John 
Simpson ;  Charles  Darwin  (1809-82),  by  Collier ;  Professor  Huxley 
(1826-96),  by  Collier;  Sir  Richard  Owen  (d.  1892),  by  Pickersgill; 
Michael  Faraday  (d.  1867),  by  PhiUips;  George  Stephenson  (1781- 
1848),  by  Pickersgill;  Professor  John  Wilson  (Christopher  North; 
d.  1854),  by  Gordon;  Douglas  Jerrold  (1803-67),  by  Macnee.  — 
On  a  screen :  Lord  Macaulay  (1800-59),  by  Sir  F.  Grant;  Professor 
TyndaU  (1820-93),  by  J.  McClure  Hamilton.  —  Busts  of  Faraday 
(by  Brock),  George  Stephenson  (by  Pitts),  and  others.  Interesting 
autographs  in  the  cases. 

Rqom  XXVII  a  (Arctic  Explorers).  This  room  contains  portraits 
of  Sir  John  and  Lady  Franldin  (d.  1847  and  1876)  and  numerous 
small  portraits  of  Arctic  explorers  and  others  connected  with  the 
search  for  Franklin.  Also  portraits  of  Nares  and  McClintock,  the 
Arctic  navigators.  Bronze  bust  of  Franklin,  by  Lucchesl.  Arctic 
Council  discussing  a  scheme  for  the  search  for  Franklin,  by  Philips. 

We  now  return  to  R.  XXFV  (Landing)  and  descend  thence  to  the] — 


206     16.  NATIONAL  PORTRAIT  GALLERY.    The  West  End, 

GROUND  FLOOR. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  staircase :   Wordsworth^  by  PickersglU. 
Room  XXVIII  (Judges).    Modern  Judges,  including  Talfourd^ 
by  Pickersgill. 

XXIX.  OoaaiDOB  (Miscellaneous  Portraits).  Lord  John  Rttssell 
(1792-1878),  by  Grant;  Sir  George  Scharf  (d.  1895),  former  keeper 
of  the  National  Portrait  Gallery,  by  Ouless ;  Sir  George  Grey  (1812-98), 
by  Herkomer;  Benjamir^  Disraeli  (1804-81),  by  Millais;  John  Bright 
(1811-89),  by  Ouless;  Cobden  (1804-65),  by  Dickinson.  —  Busts  of 
Herbert  Spencer  (^iS10-i%S),  byBoehm,  and  Dr.  Thos.  AmoW  (1795- 
1842),  by  Behnes. 

XXX.  Landing.  Convention  of  the  Anti-Slavery  Society  in  1840, 
by  Hay  don,  with  portraits  of  Clarkson,  Fowell  Buxton,  Gumey,  Lady 
Byron,  etc.  —  Busts  of  Lord  Francis  Jeffrey  (d.  1850),  by  Park, 
and  Samuel  Lover  (d.  1868),  by  Foley. 

Rooms  XXXI-XXXIIa,  on  the  groundfloor  of  the  E.  Wing, 
form  the  Sculpture  Gallery.  R.  XXXI  contains  electrotype  casts  of 
statues  and  busts,  including  a  series  representing  English  Monarchs 
and  their  wives;  figures  of  Lord  Darnley  and  Mary^  Queen  of  Scots; 
recumbent  figures  of  Edward  11,  and  Robert  Curthose,  Duke  of  Nor- 
mandy; and  a  statue  of  Francis  JBacon,  from  his  tomb  (p.  419).  — 
R.  XXXII  contains  a  series  of  bust-models  by  Sir  J.  E.  Boehm.  In 
the  space  beyond  the  arch  are  bust-models  of  Sir  John  Millais  and 
Thomas  Huxley,  by  Onslow  Ford,  a  seated  figure  of -Edtoard  W.  Lane 
(1801-76),  the  Orientalist,  in  Egyptian  costume,  by  his  brother, 
and  a  bust  of  Tennyson,  by  F.  J.  "Williamson.  On  the  end-wall  are 
a  marble  half-figure  of  Mrs,  Siddons  (1755-1831),  by  T.  Campbell, 
and  a  bust  (above  the  door)  of  Henry  Fawcett  (d.  1884),  by  Hope 
Pinker.  By  the  windows  are  bust-models  of  C.  S.  Pamell  (d.  1891), 
by  Mary  Grant,  and  Darwin  (d.  1882),  by  Horace  Montford.  The 
case  in  the  centre  contains  clay  busts  of  the  Hon,  Mrs.  Norton  and 
Sir  Wm.  Stirling  Maxwell,  by  Williamson,  and  of  Abp,  Sumner 
(1780-1862),  by  Adams;  Sir  Rowland  Hill  (d.  1879),  by  Draper. 

Room  XXXIIa.  Recumbent  figure  of  Dean  Stanley  (d.  1881), 
by  Boehm;  statuette  of  Samuel  Morley,  M.  P.  (d.  1886);  bust  of 
George  Cruikshank  (1 792-1878);  bust -model  of  Dean  Buckland 
(d.  1856),  by  H.  "Weekes ;  the  original  model  of  a  bust  of  tlie  Duchess 
of  Sutherland  {iSOQ-QS),  by  Matthew  Noble. 

A  staircase  to  the  right  (as  we  enter  the  Gallery)  descends  to  the 
Basement,  with  — 

Room  XXXIII.  The  House  of  Commons  in  1793,  by  KarV  Anton 
Hickel,  presented  by  the  Emperor  of  Austria  in  1886.  —  The  First 
House  of  Commons  after  the  Reform  BiU  of  1832,  with  320  portraits, 
by  Hayter.  —  The  House  of  Lords  in  1820,  during  the  discussion  of 
the  bill  to  divorce  Queen  Caroline,  by  Hayter  (with  portraits  of  the 
Queen,  etc.).  —  Also  a  large  collection  of  engraved  legal  portraits. 


207 


16.   Koyal  College  of  Surgeons.  Soane  Maseom. 

Fhral  HaU.    Covent  Qardtn  Market.    8U  PauVs.    Oarriek  Club. 

Lincoln's  Inn  Fields  (PL  R,  31 ;  /i),  to  the  W.  of  Lincoln's  Inn 
(p.  151),  are  Burronnded  by  lawyers'  offices  and  form  one  of  the  largest 
squares  in  London.  The  gardens  were  laid  out  by  Inigo  Jones,  and 
before  their  enclosure  in  1736  they  were  a  faTOurite  haunt  of  thieves 
and  a  resort  of  duellists.  They  were  thrown  open  to  the  public  in 
1895.  Lord  William  Russell  (p.  132)  was  executed  here  in  1683, 
and  among  the  other  names  closely  associated  with  the  Fields  are 
those  of  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  prime  minister  of  George  II.  (house 
at  the  comer  of  Great  Queen  Street),  Blackstone,  Spencer  Perceval 
(No.  59),  Lord  Erskine,  Milton,  Nell  Gwynne,  Tennyson  (No.  55), 
John  Forster  (No.  58;  the  house  of  Mr.  Tulkinghorn  in  *Bleak 
House'),  Brougham  (No.  50),  and  Thomas  Campbell  (No.  61).  Comp. 
'Lincoln's  Inn  Fields',  by  C.  W.  Heckethom  (1895). 

On  the  S.  side  of  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields  rises  the  Royal  College 
of  Surgeons,  designed  by  Sir  Charles  Barry ,  and  erected  in  1835. 
It  contains  an  admirable  Museum,  conspicuous  for  its  excellent 
organization  and  arrangement.  Visitors  are  admitted,  through  the 
personal  introduction  or  written  order  of  a  member,  on  Mon.,  Tues., 
Wed.,  and  Thurs.  from  10  to  4  in  winter,  and  from  10  to  5  in 
summer.  The  Museum  is  closed  during  the  month  of  September. 
Application  for  orders  of  admission,  which  are  not  transferable,  may 
be  made  to  the  secretary. 

The  nucleus  of  the  museum  consists  of  a  collection  of  13,000 
anatomical  preparations  formed  by  John  Hunter  (d.  1793) ,  which 
was  purchased  by  Government  after  his  death  and  presented  to  the 
College.  It  is  divided  into  two  chief  departments :  viz.  the  Physio- 
logical Series,  containing  specimens  of  animal  organs  and  formations 
in  a  normal  state,  and  the  Pathological  Series,  containing  similar 
specimens  in  an  abnormal  or  diseased  condition.  The  number  of 
specimens  in  the  Museum  has  been  enormously  increased  since  its 
foundation,  and  the  building  containing  it  has  been  several  times 
enlarged.  It  now  consists  of  five  main  rooms  :  the  Western,  Middle, 
and  Eastern  Museums,  and  the  New  Large  and  Small  Museums. 

The  Human  Osteological  Collection  occupies  the  groundfluors  of  the 
Westbbn,  Nbw  Laboe,  and  Nkw  Small  Museums  and  includes  an  admirable 
and  extensive  collection  of  the  skulls  of  the  different  nations  of  the  earth, 
deformed  skeletons,  abnormal  bone  formations,  and  the  like.  In  the  Cen- 
tral Wall  Case  on  the  E.  side  of  the  New  Large  Museum  is  the  skeleton 
of  the  Irish  giant  Byrne  or  O'Bryan,  7ft.  Tin.  high;  adjoining  it,  under  a 
glass-shade,  is  that  of  the  Sicilian  dwarf,  Caroline  Grachami,  who  died  at 
the  age  of  10  years,  20  in.  in  height.  Under  the  same  shade  are  placed  wax 
models  of  her  arm  and  foot,  and  beside  it  is  a  plaster  cast  of  her  face. 
The  Floor  Cases  contain  various  anatomical  preparations.  In  the  centre  of 
the  Western  Museum  is  hung  the  skeleton  of  a  Greenland  whale ;  a  marble 
statue  of  Hunter  by  Weekes,  erected  in  1864,  stands  in  the  middle  of  the 
floor  at  the  S.  end  of  the  hall. 


208  16.  SOANE  MUSEUM.         TheWestEnd. 

The  Oomparative  Otteological  OoUectioa  occupies  the  Eastkkn  Husbdh, 
the  Middle  Huskdm,  and  part  of  the  Wsstebn  Mubbum.  In  the  centre  of 
the  Eastern  Husenm  are  the  skeletons  of  the  large  mammalia:  whales 
(including  a  sperm-whale  or  cachalot,  60  ft.  long),  hippopotamus,  giraffe, 
rhinoceros,  elephant,  etc.  The  elephant,  Ghunee,  was  exhibited  for  many 
years  in  England,  but  becoming  unmanageable  had  at  last  to  be  shot.  Th« 
poor  animal  did  not  succumb  till  more  than  100  bullets  had  been  fired  into 
its  body.  The  skeleton  numbered  4506  A.  is  that  of  the  first  tiger  shot 
by  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  India  in  1876.  The  skeleton  of  *Orlando%  a 
Derby  winner,  and  that  of  a  favourite  deerhound  of  Sir  Edwin  Landseer, 
are  also  exhibited  here.  The  Gases  round  the  room  contain  smaller  skeletons. 
In  the  Middle  Museum  the  most  interesting  objects  are  the  lai^e  antediluvian 
skeletons.  Skeleton  of  a  gigantic  stag  (erroneously  called  the  Irish  Elk)^ 
dug  up  from  a  bed  of  shell-marl  beneath  a  peat-bog  at  Limerick ;  giant 
armadilloes  from  Buenos  Ayres;  giant  sloth  (mylodon),  also  from  Buenos 
Ayres;  the  huge  megatherium,  with  the  missing  parts  supplied.  In  the 
Wall  Gases  is  a  number  of  smaller  skeletons  and  fossils.  Several  Floor 
Cases  in  the  Western  Museum  contain  a  collection  illustrating  the  zoology 
of  the  invertebrates,  such  as  zoophytes,  shell-fish,  crabs,  and  beetles. 

The  galleries  round  the  rooms  contain  Pathological  Speeimem  (W.  Mu- 
seum and  New  Large  Museum),  Phytiological  Spedmeru  (E.  and  Middle  Mu- 
seums), Dermatological  Specimens  (top  gallery  of  W.  Museum),  etc.  The 
Collection  of  CalcuU ,  the  Toynbee  Collection  of  Diseases  of  the  Bar^  and  the 
Collection  iUustrating  Diseases  of  the  Eye  (all  in  the  W.  Museum)  deserve 
special  mention.  The  Histological  Collection  now  comprises  12,(X)0  specimens. 
The  upper  galleries  of  the  new  museums  contain  a  collection  of  drawings 
and  photographs  illustrating  rare  or  curious  diseases.  A  room,  entered 
from  tixe  staircase  of  the  Eastern  Museum,  contains  a  collection  of  surg- 
ical instruments. 

The  College  also  possesses  a  library  of  about  52,000  volumes. 
The  Council  Room  contains  a  good  portrait  of  Hunter  by  Reynolds 
and  several  busts  by  Chantrey* 

At  No.  13,  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields,  N.  side,  opposite  the  College 
of  Surgeons,  is  Sir  John  Soane's  Unseam  (PI.  R,  31 ;  //),  founded 
by  Sir  John  Soane  (d.  1837),  architect  of  the  Bank  of  England. 
During  March,  April,  May,  June,  July,  and  August  this  interesting 
collection  is  open  to  the  public  on  Tues.,  Wed.,  Thurs.,  and  Frid., 
from  11  to  5.  During  the  recess  visitors  are  admitted  by  tickets 
obtained  from  the  curator,  Mr.  Walter  L.  Spiers.  Strangers  are,  how- 
ever, courteously  admitted  daily  (11-5)  throughout  the  year  on  pre- 
sentation of  their  cards.  The  collection,  which  is  exceedingly  diver- 
sified in  character,  occupies  about  a  score  of  rooms  and  cabinets, 
some  of  which  are  very  small,  and  is  most  ingeniously  arranged, 
every  corner  being  turned  to  account.  Many  of  the  contents  are  of 
little  general  interest,  but  some  of  the  pictures  and  other  objects 
of  art  are  of  great  importance  and  well  repay  a  visit.  There  are 
also  many  curiosities  of  historical  or  personal  interest. 

The  DiMiNO  Boom  and  Librabt,  which  the  visitor  first  enters,  are 
decorated  somewhat  after  the  Pompeian  style.  The  ceiling-paintings  are 
by  Henry  Howard^  R.  A.,  the  principal  subjects  being  Phoebus  in  his  car. 
Pandora  among  the  gods,  Epimetheus  receiving  Pandora,  and  the  Opening 
of  Pandora's  vase.  On  the  walls  are  Reynolds*  Snake  in  the  grass,  resem- 
bling the  picture  at  tiie  National  Gallery,  and  a  portrait  of  Sir  John  Soane, 
by  Later enee.  The  Italic  painted  fictile  vase  at  the  N.  end  of  the  room, 
2  ft.  8  in.  high,  the  Greek  vase  and  English  chopine  on  the  E.  side,  and 
a  French  clock  with  a  small  orrery  may  be  mentioned.  A  glazed  case  on 
a  table  contains  a  fine  illuminated  MS.  with  a  frontispiece  by  Giulio  Clovio. 


The  West  End,  16.   SOANE  MUSEUM.  209 

The  library  also  contains  a  large  collection  of  valuable  old  books,  drawings, 
and  MSS.,  wMeh  are  accessible  to  the  student. 

We  now  pass  through  two  diminutive  rooms,  forming  a  corridor,  into 
the  HD8XUM,  containing  numeroun  marbles,  columns,  etc.  To  the  right 
is  the  PiOTUBS  Oallbbt,  a  room  measuring  13  ft.  8  in.  in  length ,  12  ft. 
4  in.  in  breadth,  and  19  ft.  6  in.  in  height,  which,  by  dint  of  ingenious  ar- 
rangement, can  accommodate  as  many  pictures  as  a  gallery  of  the  same 
height,  46  ft.  long  and  20  ft.  broad.  The  walls  are  covered  with  movable 
shutters,  hung  with  pictures  on  both  sides.  Among  these  are:  Hogarth^ 
*The  Bake*s  Progress,  a  eelebrated  series  of  eight  pictures,  and  *The 
Election  (four  pictures)  \  Canaletto^  The  Rialto  at  Venice,  and  The  Piazza 
of  St.  Mark;  a  series  of  drawings  by  FiraneH;  a  collection  of  Sir  John 
Boone's  architectural  designs;  head  believed  to  be  a  fragment  of  one  of 
Baphaers  lost  cartoons  (comp.  p.  367),  and  a  copy  by  Flaxman  of  two  heads 
from  another  cartoon.  —  When  the  last  shutter  of  the  8.  wall  ia  opened 
we  see  into  a  well-lighted  recess,  with  a  copy  of  a  nymph  by  Westmacott, 
and  into  a  small  room  called  the  Honk's  Parloir  (see  below). 

From  the  hall  with  the  columns  we  descend  into  a  kind  of  crypt, 
where  we  thread  our  way  among  numerous  statues,  both  originals  and 
casts,  relics  of  ancient  art,  modem  works  by  Flaxman  and  others,  and 
a  collection  of  cinerary  urns,  to  the  Sxpulgh&al  Ghambks,  which  con- 
tains the  most  interesting  object  in  the  whole  collection.  This  is  the 
*  Sarcophagus  of  Set!  I.,  father  of  Bamses  the  Great,  found  in  1817  by 
Belsoni  in  a  tomb  in  the  valley  of  Biban  el-Huldk,  near  the  ancient 
Thebee ,  and  consisting  of  one  block  of  alabaster  or  arragonite,  9  ft.  4  in. 
long ,  3  ft.  8  in.  wide,  and  2  ft.  8  in.  deep  at  the  head,  covered  both 
internally  and  externally  with  hieroglyphics  and  figures.  The  thickness 
varies  from  2Vs  to  3Vs  inches.  The  engravings  on  the  sides  describe  the 
journey  of  Be,  the  sun,  through  the  chambers  of  the  underworld  duTing 
the  12  hours  of  night.  The  sarcophagus  was  bought  by  Sir  John  Soane 
in  1824  for  20001.    On  the  S.  side  of  this,  the  lower  part  of  the  Museum, 

is  the  MONUKENT  GOUBT. 

The  Monk's  Pabloib  (see  above)  contains  objects  of  medisBval  art,  some 
Peruvian  and  other  antiquities,  and  two  fine  Flemish  wood-carvings.  The 
rooms  on  the  groundfloor  (to  which  we  now  re-ascend)  are  filled  with 
statuary,  architectural  fragments,  terracottas,  and  models,  among  which 
some  fine  Boman  portrait-busts  may  be  noticed.  Behind  the  cast  of  the 
Apollo  Belvedere  is  an  additional  picture-gallery,  containing  specimens 
of  CanaUtto  (*Port  of  Venice),  Turner  (•Adm.  Tromp's  barge  entering  the 
Texel;  Kirkstall  Abbey),  Cflr«co«  (•Passage  Point),  Cleristeauy  Ea$ilake^  Ruys- 
dtielf  etc.  Adjoining  this  is  a  recess  with  portraits  of  the  Soane  family, 
works  by  Waiteau  (Les  Noces),  Turner^*  superb  water-colour  of  the  Val 
d^Aosta,  etc.  In  the  Bbbakfast  Boom  are  choice  illuminated  MSS.,  and  an  in- 
laid pistol  which  once  belonged  to  Peter  the  G^reat.  This  room,  for  its  arrange- 
ment, mode  of  lighting,  use  of  mirrors,  etc.,  is,  perhaps,  unique  in  London. 

The  Dbawino  Booms,  on  the  first  floor,  contain  a  carved  ivory  and 
gilt  table  and  four  chairs  from  the  palace  of  Tippoo  Sahib  at  Sering- 
apatam;  a  collection  of  exquisitely  delicate  miniature  paintings  on  silk, 
by  Labile ;  a  small  but  choice  collection  of  antique  gems  (the  *Capece' 
collection) ;  many  drawings  and  paintings ;  and  various  architectural  designs 
by  Sir  John  Soane.  In  the  glass-cases  are  the  first  three  folio  editions  of 
Shakspeare,  an  original  MS.  of  Tasso's  ^G^erusalemme  Liberata\  several  large 
illuminated  MSS.,  two  sketch-books  of  Sir  Joshua  Beynolds,  etc.  On  stands 
in  these  rooms  are  a  cork  model  of  Pompeii  and  a  series  of  plaster  of  Paris 
models  of  ancient  classic  buildings. 

On  the  walls  of  the  Staibgasb  are  hung  pictures,  prints,  and  sculptures. 
—  A  large  variety  of  ancient  painted  glass  has  been  glazed  in  the  windows 
throughout  the  museum. 

At  the  comer  of  the  street  running  W.  from  the  S.W.  corner 
of  the  square  to  ELingsway,  is  the  Sardinian  Catholic  Chapel  (PI.  R, 
Baedbkbb's  London.    15th  Edit.  14 


210  16.   OOVENT  GARDEN.        TheWestEnd, 

31 ;  /i),  opposite  wMoh  Benjamin  Franklin  lodged  while  working 
as  a  printer  in  Wild  Court,  a  little  to  the  W.  The  chapel  is  ahout 
to  he  demolished.  A  little  to  the  S.E.  is  the  large  KingU  College 
Hospital  (ahont  to  he  removed),  hehind  which  lies  the  once  unsa- 
Youry  district  of  (^are  Mofketj  named  from  the  Earls  of  Clare  (tahlet) 
and  now  conslderahly  improved.  The  Passmore  Edwards  Hall  here, 
opened  in  1902,  Is  the  seat  of  the  London  School  of  Economics,  now 
a  school  of  the  University  of  London  (p.  341). 

G&BAT  QuBBN  Stsbbt,  running  to  the  S.W.  from  theN.W.  comer 
of  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields  and  intersecting  Eingsway ,  contains  the 
Kingsway  Theatre  (p.  46)  and  Freemasom'  HaU  and  Freemason^ 
Tavern,  the  London  headquarters  of  the  Masonic  Craft.  Among 
former  residents  in  this  street  were  Lord  Herbert  of  Cherbury,  Sir 
Godfrey  Eneller,  Boswell,  and  Sheridan.  Beyond  Drury  Lane  (j».  158) 
Great  Queen  Street  is  continued  by  Long  Acre,  with  numerous 
coashbuilders'  establishments  and  the  Covent  Garden  Station  (Fl.  R, 
27;  //)  of  the  Hccadilly  Tube  (p.  35).  To  the  left  (S.)  of  Long  Acre 
diverges  Bow  Street,  in  which  is  the  Boyal  Italian  Opera,  or  Covent 
Garden  Theatre  (p.  45),  adjoined  by  the  Floral  HaU,  now  used  as 
a  foreign  fruit  wholesale  market.  Nearly  opposite  is  the  New  Bow 
Street  Police  Court,  the  most  important  of  the  14  metropolitan  police 
courts  of  London.  At  the  comer  of  Bow  Street  and  Russell  Street 
was  WiWi  Coffee  House,  the  resort  of  Dxyden  and  other  literary  men 
of  the  17-18th  centuries.  Waller,  Fielding,  Wycherley,  and  Grinling 
Gibbons  all  once  resided  in  Bow  Street. 

Russell  Street  leads  hence  to  the  E.  to  Drury  Lane  Theatre 
(p.  45),  and  to  the  W.  to  CoYent  Garden  Harket  (PI.  R,  31 ;  If), 
the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Bedford,  the  principal  vegetable,  fruit, 
and  flower  market  in  London.  It  presents  an  exceedingly  pictur- 
esque and  lively  scene,  the  best  time  to  see  the  vegetable-market 
being  about  6  o'clock  on  the  mornings  of  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and 
Saturdays,  the  market-days  (comp.  p.  63).  The  show  of  fruit  and 
flowers,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  is  seen  to  advantage  from 
7  to  10  a.m.    The  Easter  Eve  flower-market  is  specially  brilliant. 

The  neighbourhood  of  Covent  Garden  is  full  of  historic  mem- 
ories. The  name  reminds  us  of  the  Convent  Garden  belonging 
to  the  monks  of  Westminster ,  which  in  Ralph  Agas's  Map  of  Lon- 
don (1560)  is  shown  walled  around,  and  extending  from  the  Strand 
to  the  present  Long  Acre  (see  above),  then  in  the  open  country.  The 
Bedford  family  received  these  lands  (seven  acres,  of  the  yearly  value 
of  6^  6s.  8d.)  as  a  gift  from  the  Crown  in  1552.  The  square  was 
planned  by  Inigo  Jones ;  and  vegetables  used  to  be  sold  here,  thus 
perpetuating  the  associations  of  the  ancient  garden.  In  1831  the 
Duke  of  Bedford  erected  the  present  maiket-bulldlngs,  which  have 
recently  been  much  improved,  though  they  are  still  quite  inadequate 
for  the  enormous  business  transacted  here  on  market-days.    The 


The  West  End.  17.  WHITEHALL.  211 

neighbouring  streets,  Russell,  Bedford,  and  Tavistock,  oommem- 
orate  the  family  names  oi  titles  of  the  lords  of  the  soil.  In  the 
Go  vent  Garden  Piazzas,  now  nearly  all  cleared  away,  the  families 
of  Lord  Crewe,  Bishop  Berkeley,  Lord  Hollis,  Earl  of  Oxford,  Sir 
Godfrey  Eneller,  Sir  Kenelm  Dighy,  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  and 
other  distinguished  persons  used  to  reside.  In  this  square  was  the 
old  ^Bedford  Coffee  house*,  frequented  by  Garrick,  Foote,  and  Ho- 
garth, where  the  Beef-Steak  Club  was  held ;  and  here  was  the  not 
oyer  savoury  ^Old  Hummums  Hotel*.  Here  also  was  *Eyans*s*  (so 
named  from  a  former  proprietor),  a  house  once  the  abode  of  Sir 
Kenelm  Digby,  and  long  noted  as  a  place  for  sappers  and  evening 
entertainments.  It  is  now  occupied  by  a  club.  —  At  No.  4  York 
Street,  to  the  E.  of  the  Flower  Market,  Thos.  de  Quinoey  wrote  the 
'Confessions  of  an  English  Opium  Eater'.  Charles  and  Mary  Lamb 
lived  at  No.  20  Russell  Street  (1817-23).  Joseph  Turner  (1776- 
1861),  the  son  of  a  hair-dresser,  was  born  at  No.  20  Maiden  Lane,  to 
the  S.  of  Covent  Garden;  and  in  the  same  street  Andrew  Marvell 
(1621-78),  the  poet,  once  resided,  and  Voltaire  lodged  for  some  time. 

The  neighbouring  church  of  St.  Paul,  a  plain  building  erected 
by  Jnigo  Jones  at  the  beginning  of  the  17th  cent.,  contains  nothing 
of  interest.  It  was  the  first  Protestant  church  of  any  size  erected 
in  London.  In  the  churchyard  are  buried  Samuel  Butler  (d.  1680), 
the  author  of  *Hudibras*;  Sir  Peter  Lely  (^Vahdervaes,  d.  1680 J, 
the  painter;  W,  Wyeherley  (d.  1715),  the  dramatist;  OrirUing 
Gibbons  (d.  1721),  the  carver  in  wood ;  T.  A,  Ame  (d.  1778),  the 
composer  of  *Rule  Britannia' ;  John  Wolcot  (Peter  Pindar ;  d.  1819), 
the  author;  John  Taylor  (d.  1654),  the  'Water  Poet' ;  and  Kynaston 
(d.  1712),  the  actor  of  female  parts. 

The  Garrick  dub,  13  and  15  Garrick  Street ,  Covent  Garden, 
founded  in  1831,  possesses  an  important  and  valuable  collection  of 
portraits  of  celebrated  English  actors ,  shown  on  Wednesdays  only, 
to  visitors  accompanied  by  a  member.  The  fine  bust  of  Shakespeare 
was  discovered  in  1846,  bricked  up  in  a  wall  at  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields. 


17.   Whitehall. 

The  Horse  Guards.  United  Service  Museum.  Oovemment  Offices, 
Westminster  Bridge. 

The  broad  and  handsome  street  leading  from  Trafalgar  Square, 
opposite  the  National  Gallery,  to  the  S.,  towards  Westminster,  is 
called  Whitehall  (PI.  R,  26 ;  IV),  after  the  famous  royal  palace  of 
that  name  formerly  situated  here  (p.  212).  This  street  and  its 
neighbourhood  contain  most  of  the  great  government  offices  and 
may  be  regarded  as  the  administrative  centre  of  the  British  Empire. 

Near  Charing  Cross,  to  the  left,  is  Great  Scotland  Yard  (PL 
B,  26 ;  iF),  once  the  headquarters  of  the  Metropolitan  Police  (comp. 

14* 


212  17.  HORSE  GUARDS.         TheWcHEnd. 

p.  216).  Scotland  Yard  is  said  to  have  belonged  to  tlie  Kings  uf  Sect- 
land  (whence  its  name)  from  the  reign  of  £dgar  to  that  of  Henry  II. 
At  a  later  period  Milton,  Inlgo  Jones,  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  and 
other  celebrated  persons  resided  here.  Opposite,  on  the  right  side 
of  Whitehall,  is  the  Admiralty,  or  offices  of  the  governing  body  of 
the  navy.  The  building  abntting  on  Whitehall  dates  from  1722-26, 
but  behind  it,  in  St.  James's  Park,  large  and  handsome  new  offices, 
forming  an  extensive  quadrangle,  have  been  erected  since  1887. 
The  Admiralty  Board  consists  of  a  First  Lord  (a  member  of  the 
Cabinet),  four  Naval  Lords,  and  a  Civil  Lord,  besides  a  par- 
liamentary and  a  permanent  secretary.  To  the  S.  of  the  Admiralty 
is  the  Horse  Guards,  the  office  of  the  inspector-general  of  the  forces 
(see  below),  an  inconsiderable  building  with  a  low  clock-tower, 
erected  in  1753  on  the  site  of  an  old  Tilt  Yard.  It  derives  its  name 
from  its  original  use  as  a  guard-house  for  the  palace  of  Whitehall. 
Two  mounted  Life  Guards  are  posted  here  as  sentinels  every  day  from 
10  a.m.  to  4  p.m.,  and  the  operation  of  relieving  guard,  which 
takes  place  hourly,  is  interesting.  At  11  a.m.  the  troop  of  40  Life 
Guards  on  duty  is  relieved  by  another  troop,  when  a  good  opportu- 
nity is  afforded  of  seeing  a  number  of  these  fine  soldiers  together. 
The  Infantry  sentries  on  the  other  side  of  the  Horse  Guards,  in 
St.  James's  Park,  are  also  changed  at  11  a.m.  A  passage,  much 
frequented  by  pedestrians,  leads  through  the  Horse  Guards  into 
St.  James's  Park,  but  no  carriages  except  those  of  royalty  and  of  a 
few  privileged  persons  are  permitted  to  pass. 

Opposite,  between  Whitehall  Place  and  Horse  Guards  Avenue, 
rises  the  imposing  new  War  Office,  designed  by  William  Young 
and  completed  in  1906.  The  army  is  administered  and  controlled 
by  the  Secretary  of  State  for  War  (a  member  of  the  Cabinet),  assisted 
by  the  Army  Council,  of  which  he  is  president.  The  council,  created 
in  1904,  includes  two  other  civil  members  and  four  military 
members.  The  office  of  commander-in-chief  of  the  army  was  abol- 
ished in  1904,  and  a  new  office  was  created,  viz.  that  of  inspector- 
general  of  the  forces,  who  reports  to  the  council.  —  In  front  of  the 
War  Office  is  an  equestrian  Statue  of  the  Duke  of  Cambridge  (1819- 
1904),  by  Adrian  Jones  (1907).  The  duke  commanded  the  British 
army  from  1856  tiU  1895. 

Immediately  to  the  S.  of  the  War  Office  stands  the  Banqueting 
Hall,  the  only  extant  relic  of  the  great  Palace  of  Whitehall,  At  the 
beginning  of  the  13th  cent,  the  Chief  Justiciary,  Hubert  de  Burgh, 
who  resided  in  this  neighbourhood,  presented  his  house  with  its 
contents  to  the  Dominican  monks  of  Holborn,  who  afterwards  sold 
it  to  Walter  Gray,  Archbishop  of  York.  Thenceforward  it  was  the 
London  residence  of  the  Archbishops  of  York,  and  was  long  known 
as  York  House  or  York  Palace.  On  the  downfall  of  Wolsey,  Arch- 
bishop of  York  and  favourite  of  Henry  VIII.,  York  House  became 
crown-property,  and  received  the  name  of  Whitehall:  — 


The  Wat  End.       17.  BANQUETING  HALL.  213 

*Sir,  70U 
Hast  no  more  call  it  Tork-place,  that  is  past; 
For,  since  the  cardinal  fell,  that  title^s  lost; 
^Tis  now  the  king's,  and  calFd  —  Whitehall*. 

Hen.  VIII,  iv.  e. 

The  palaee  was  greatly  enlarged  and  beautified .  by  its  new 
Qwner,  Henry  VIII.,  and  with  its  precincts  became  of  such  extent 
as  to  reach  from  Scotland  Yard  to  near  Bridge  Street,  and  from  the 
Thames  far  into  St.  James's  Park,  passing  over  what  was  then  the 
narrow  street  of  Whitehall,  which  It  spanned  by  means  of  a  beau- 
tiful gateway  designed  by  Holbein. 

The  banquetlng-hall  of  old  York  House,  built  in  the  Tudor 
style,  haying  been  burned  down  in  1615,  James  I.  conceived  the  idea 
of  erecting  on  this  site  a  magnificent  royal  residence,  designed  by 
Inigo  Jones,  which  would  have  filled  the  whole  space  between  West- 
minster and  Charing  Gross,  St.  James's  Park  and  the  Thames.  The 
building  was  begun  and  a  new  banqueting-hall  was  completed  in 
1622,  but  at  the  time  of  the  breaking  out  of  the  Civil  War  nothing 
farther  had  been  accomplished.  In  1691  part  of  the  old  palace  was 
burned  to  the  ground,  and  the  remainder  in  1697,  so  that  nothing 
remained  of  Whitehall  except  the  new  hall.  St.  James's  Palace 
became  thenceforward  the  royal  residence.  George  I.  converted 
the  banqueting-house  into  a  Royal  Chapely  which  was  dismantled 
in  1890,  and  in  1894  the  United  Service  Museum  was  removed 
hither  (see  p.  214).  The  basement  floor  or  crypt,  previously  subdivided 
into  dark  cellars,  was  restored  and  provided  with  a  concrete  floor, 
while  the  wood  of  the  oaken  pews  was  used  to  panel  the  bases  of 
the  walls  and  piers. 

The  reminiscences  of  the  tragic  episodes  of  English  history 
transacted  at  Whitehall  are  much  more  interesting  than  the  place 
itself.  It  was  here  that  Cardinal  Wolsey,  the  haughty,  splendour- 
loving  Archbishop  of  York,  gave  his  costly  entertainments,  and 
here  he  was  disgraced.  Here,  too,  Henry  YIII.  became  enamoured 
of  the  unhappy  Anne  Boleyn,  at  a  ball  given  in  honour  of  the  fickle 
and  voluptuous  monarch;  and  here  he  died  in  1547.  Holbein,  the 
famous  painter,  occupied  rooms  in  the  palace  at  that  period.  It 
was  from  Whitehall  that  Elizabeth  was  carried  as  a  prisoner  to  the 
Tower ,  and  to  Whitehall  she  returned  in  triumph  as  Queen  of 
England.  A  tablet  placed  beneath  the  lower  central  window  (on 
the  exterior)  records  that  Charles  I.  passed  through  the  hall  to  the 
scaffold  erected  in  front  of  it.  He  is  supposed  to  have  been  led 
through  one  of  the  windows  or  through  an  opening  made  in  the 
wall  for  the  purpose.  A  little  later  the  Protector  Oliver  Crom- 
well took  up  his  residence  here  with  his  secretary,  John  Milton, 
and  here  he  died  on  3rd  Sept.,  1658.  Here  Charles  II.,  restored, 
held  a  profligate  court,  and  here  he  died  in  1685.  See  ^The  Old 
Royal  Palace  of  Whitehall'  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Sheppard  (London: 
1902). 


214  17.  UNITED  SERVICE  MUSEUM.     The  West  End. 

The  Banqueting  Hall  (PI.  R,  26;  IV),  on  the  E.  side  of  White- 
hall, is  one  of  the  most  splendid  specimens  of  the  Falladian  style 
of  architecture,  11 1ft.  long,  551/2  ft.  wide,  and  55 V2  ft.  high.  The 
ceiling,  divided  into  nine  compartments  hy  gilded  mouldings,  is 
embellished  with  allegorical  ♦Paintings  executed  by  Rubens  to  the 
order  of  Charles  I.,  who  knighted  the  artist  and  paid  him  3000i. 
The  central  scene,  representing  the  Apotheosis  of  James  I.,  is 
flanlLed  by  allegorical  representations  of  peace  and  plenty,  harmony 
and  happiness.  Two  other  large  paintings  symbolize  the  Birth  of 
Charles  I.  and  his  Coronation  in  Scotland,  while  four  oval  com- 
partments at  the  angles  of  the  ceiling  show  the  triumph  of  virtue 
over  vice.  The  pictures,  which  are  on  canvas,  were  painted  abroad 
about  1635.  They  have  been  restored  several  times,  the  last  occasion 
l)eing  in  1907.  —  Van  Dyck  was  to  have  executed  for  the  walls  a 
series  of  paintings,  representing  the  history  and  ceremonies  of  the 
Order  of  the  Garter,  but  the  scheme  was  never  carried  out. 

The  Banqueting  Hall  ia  now  occupied  by  the  Boyal  United  Service 
Museam,  an  interesting  collection  of  objects  connected  with  the  naval  and 
military  professions,  belonging  to  the  Royal  United  Service  Institution  (see 
below).  Admission,  see  p.  82;  sailors,  soldiers,  and  policemen  in  uniform 
are  admitted  free.  Catalogue  Qd.  —  At  the  entrance  to  the  hall  is  a  bronze 
bust  of  James  I.,  by  Le  Sueur.  In  the  centre  of  the  hall  is  a  large  *Model 
of  the  battle  of  Waterloo,  by  Captain  Sibome^  in  which  190,000  figures 
are  represented,  giving  an  admirable  idea  of  the  disposition  and  move- 
ments of  the  forces  on  the  eventful  day.  Here,  too,  are  HamiltonU  model 
of  Sebastopol,  showing  the  position  of  the  troops;  and  a  model  of  the 
battle  of  Trafalgar,  showing  the  British  fleet  breaking  the  enemy's  line. 
Adjacent  (partly  in  glass-cases)  are  numerous  relics  of  Napoleon,  Nelson, 
and  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  and  many  memorials  of  Waterloo.  The 
museum  contains  many  other  historical  and  personal  memorials:  relica 
of  Franklin's  expedition  to  the  K.  pole,  and  others  of  the  Koyal  George, 
sunk  at  Spithead  in  17825  the  swords  of  Cromwell  and  General  Wolfe; 
a  midshipman's  dirk  that  belonged  to  Nelson;  the  pistols  of  Sir  Ralph 
Abercromby,  Bolivar,  and  Tippoo  Sahib;  relics  of  Sir  John  Moore ;  personal 
relics  of  Drake,  Captain  Cook,  and  other  famous  seamen;  the  flag  of  the 
'Chesapeake'  captured  by  the  ^Shannon'  (1813).  Among  the  memoriala  of 
recent  campaigns  are  trophies  from  the  Crimean  War  (bugle  that  sounded 
the  charge  of  the  Light  Brigade),  and  from  China,  Ashantee  (state-umbrellas 
of  King  Coffee  and  King  Prempeh,  on  either  side  of  the  entrance),  and 
reminiscences  of  the  battle  of  Omdurman  (1898)  and  of  the  Transvaal 
War  (1900). 

The  rest  of  the  collection,  placed  partly  in  this  hall  and  partly  in 
the  Basbhbnt,  includes  weapons  and  martial  equipments  from  America, 
Africa,  the  South  Sea  Islands,  etc. ;  a  European  Armoury,  containing 
specimens  of  the  armour  and  weapons  of  the  different  European  nations ; 
an  A$iatie  Armowyy  with  Indian  guna  and  armour,  etc. ;  a  Naval  Chlleetion^ 
including  models  of  different  kinds  of  vessels,  ships^  gear,  marine  machinery, 
and  the  like,  including  an  ingenious  little  model  of  a  ship,  executed  by 
a  French  prisoner-of-war;  quick-firing  guns;  models  of  ordnance  and 
specimens  of  shot  and  shells ;  model  steam-engines ;  military  models  of 
various  kinds :  siege-operations  with  trenches,  lines,  batteries,  approaches, 
and  walls  in  which  a  breach  has  been  effected;  fortifications,  pioneer 
instruments,  etc.;  uniforms  and  equipments  of  soldiers  of  different 
countries;  a  complete  collection  of  naval  and  military  medals;  fire-arms 
and  portions  of  fire-arms  at  different  stages  of  their  manufacture;  paint- 
ings and  photographs  of  warlike  scenes  and  military  equipments  and 
apparatus;  etc. 


TheWestEnd.     17.  GOVERNMENT  OFFICES.  215 

Adjoining  the  Banqueting  Hall  on  the  S.  are  the  new  buildings 
of  the  Royal  United  Service  Institution  (founded  in  1830),  open 
to  of  fleers  of  the  navy,  army,  and  auxiliary  forces.  The  institution 
numbers  about  5500  members,  each  of  whom  pays-  an  entrance  fee 
of  a  guinea  and  a  yearly  subscription  of  the  same  amount  or  a  life- 
subscription  of  15{.  The  new  buildings  contain  a  large  Lecture  Hall^ 
Library^  Reading  Boom,  etc.   Museum,  see  p.  ^214. 

The  Treasury,  a  building  100  yds.  in  length,  situated  on  the 
left  side  of  Whitehall  between  the  Horse  Guards  and  Downing 
Street ,  originally  erected  during  the  reign  of  George  I.  and  pro- 
vided by  Sir  Charles  Barry  with  a  new  facade,  is  the  office  of  the 
Prime  Minister  (First  Lord  of  the  Treasury)  and  also  contains  the 
Trivy  Council  Office.  The  Office  of  the  Chancellor  of  the  Exchequer 
occrpies  a  separate  edifice  in  Downing  Street. 

To  the  S.,  between  Downing  Street  and  Great  George  Street, 
rise  two  imposing  piles  of  buildings  containing  other  Goyernment 
Offices.  The  more  northerly,  constructed  in  the  Italian  style  in 
1868-73  at  a  cost  of  500,000^.,  from  designs  by  Sir  Q,  0.  Scott 
(d.  1878),  comprise  the  Home  Office,  the  Foreign  Office,  the 
Colonial  Office,  and  the  India  Office,  The  effect  of  the  imposing 
facade  towards  Parliament  Street  (the  southern  prolongation  of 
Whitehall)  has  been  greatly  enhanced  by  the  widening  of  the 
street  to  50  yds.,  whereby,  too,  a  riew  of  Westminster  Abbey  from 
Whitehall  is  disclosed.  The  more  southerly  pile,  erected  from 
the  design  of  J.  M.  Brydon  in  1900-8,  is  connected  with  the 
former  by  a  tasteful  bridge  spanning  Charles  Street,  and  is  in- 
tended to  accommodate  the  Local  Government  Board,  the  Board  of 
Education,  the  Board  of  Trade,  etc.  None  of  these  offices  are  shown 
to  visitors. 

This  new  block,  extending  back  to  Delahay  Street  (PI.  R,  25;  /F), 
will  eventvally  he  carried  to  St.  James's  Park.  —  The  widening  of  the 
lower  part  uf  Parliament  Street  involved  the  demolition  of  King  Street, 
a  narrow  thoroughfare,  to  the  W.  of  it  and  the  only  approach  in  earlier 
times  from  Whitehall  to  Westminster.  At  the  N.  end,  removed  to  make 
room  for  the  present  Government  Offices,  stood  Holbein'^s  great  gate 
(p.  213j.  Spenser,  the  poet,  spent  his  last  days  in  King  Street,  and  he 
was  carried  hence  to  Westminster  Abbey.  CromwelFs  mother  lived  here, 
often  visited  by  her  affectionate  son;  so  did  Dr.  Sydenham,  Lord  North, 
Bishop  Goodman,  Sir  Henry  Wotton,  and  at  one  time  Oliver  Cromwell 
himself.  Through  this  narrow  street  all  the  pageants  from  Whitehall  to 
the  Abbey  and  Westminster  Hall  passed,  whether  for  burial,  coronation, 
or  state-trials.  Parliament  Street  was  opened  only  in  1732,  long  after 
Whitehall  had  ceased  to  be  a  royal  residence,  and  was  carried  through 
the  old  privy  garden  of  Whitehall.  —  No.  17  Delahay  Street  was  the  home 
of  Judge  Jeflreys  (d.  1689).  The  office  of  the  Society  for  the  Propagation 
of  tJu  Goepel  in  Foreign  Par't  is  at  No.  19. 

The  modem  edifice  on  the  E.  side  of  Whitehall  opposite  the 
Treasury,  in  the  Franco- Scottish  Renaissance  style,  is  Montague 
House,  the  mansion  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch,  containing  a  splendid 
collection  of  miniatures  and  many  valuable  pictures. 


216  17.  WESTMINSTER  BRIDGE.     TheWestEnd, 

Whitehall  OarderUy  to  the  K.  of  Montague  House,  occupy  the  site  of 
the  old  Privy  Garden  of  Whitehall.  "So.  2  was  the  home  of  Benjamin 
Disraeli  (Lord  Beaconsfield)  in  1873-76.  Ko.  4  was  the  town-house  of  Sir 
Robert  Peel,  whither  he  was  carried  to  die  after  falling  from  his  horse  in 
Constitution  Hill  (June  39th,  1850). 

Derby  Street,  on  tlie  E.  side  of  Parliament  Street,  leads  to  New 
Scotland  Tard  (PI.  R,  25 ;  JV),  on  the  Victoria  Embankment,  the 
headquarters  of  the  Metropolitan  Police  since  1891.  The  turreted 
building,  in  the  Scottish  baronial  style,  was  designed  by  Norman 
Shaw,  and  is  impressive  by  its  simplicity  of  outline  and  dignity 
of  mass.  In  the  *Lost  Property  Office^  (entr.  from  the  Embankment) 
lost  articles  found  and  sent  to  the  police  headquarters  may  be 
reclaimed  on  payment  of  15  per  cent  of  their  value. 

Fiom  the  S.  end  of  Parliament  Street  Great  George  Street  (PI. 
R,  25  J 17)  runs  to  the  W.  to  Storey's  Gate  (p.  323),  while  Bridge 
Street,  skirting  the  N.  end  of  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  leads  to 
the  E.  to  Westminster  Bridge. 

The  Surveyors'  Inttitution^  12  Great  Qeorge  Street,  contains  a  Forulry 
Museum,  mainly  illustrating  the  diseases  of  trees,  parasite  growths,  and 
insect  pests.  Strangers  are  admitted  on  the  introduction  of  a  member  of 
the  institution.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  is  the  Institute  of  Civil 
Engineers  (PI.  B,  25;  /F),  occupying  the  site  of  a  house  in  which  Lord 
Byron's  body  lay  in  state  in  1824.  The  busts  on  the  exterior  represent 
Telford,  Brindley,  Watt,  Bennie,  Stephenson,  Brunei,  and  Smeaton. 

♦WeatmiMter  Bridge  (PI.  R,  29; /V),  erected  in  1856-62,  by 
Page,  at  a. cost  of  250, 000^,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  stone  bridge, 
is  1160  ft.  long  and  85  fi.  broad.  It  consists  of  seven  iron  arches 
borne  by  granite  buttresses,  the  central  arch  having  a  span  of  120  ft., 
the  others  of  114  ft.  On  a  pedestal  at  the  W.  end  of  the  bridge 
is  a  colossal  group  of  Boadicea  in  her  chariot,  by  J.  Thomycroft. 
The  bridge  affords  an  admirable  yiew  of  the  Houses  of  Parliament. 
It  was  the  view  from  this  bridge  that  suggested  Wordsworth's  fine 
sonnet,  beginning  ^Earth  has  not  anything  to  show  more  fair'. 
Below  the  bridge,  on  the  left  bank,  is  the  beginning  of  the  Victoria 
Embankment  (p.  125),  and  on  the  right  bank,  the  site  of  the  new 
London  County  Hall  (p.  xxxi);  above,  on  the  right  bank,  is  the 
Albert  Embankment,  with  the  extensive  Hospital  of  St.  Thomas 
(p.  379).  —  Tramways,  see  p.  23. 


18.    Houses  of  Parliament  and  Westminster  Hall. 

St.  Margaret's  Church. 
Parliament  Street(see  p.  215)  debouches  on  the  S.  in  Parliament 
Square  (PI.  R,  25;  77),  bounded  on  the  W.  by  New  Palace  Yard, 
which  separates  it  from  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  and  on  the  S. 
by  St.  Margaret's  Church,  behind  which  towers  Westminster  Abbey. 
On  the  N.  side  of  the  square  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Sir  Robert  Peel 
(d.  1850),  and  a  little  farther  to  the  left  is  that  of  Lord  Palmerston 
(d.  1865).    Adjacent,  opposite  the  entrance  into  New  Palace  Yard, 


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TheWe8tS!nd,     18.  HOUSES  OP  PARLIAMENT.  217 

Btands  the  hronze  Statue  of  the  Earl  of  Derby  (d.  1869),  in  the 
101)68  of  a  peer,  10  ft.  high,  hy  Noble,  erected  in  lo74.  The  granite 
pedestal  bears  fonr  reliefs  in  bronze,  representing  his  career  as  a 
statesman.  On  the  S.  side,  facing  St.  Margaret's,  is  a  bronze  Statue 
of  Lord  Beaconsfleld  (d.  1881),  in  the  robes  of  the  Garter,  by  Raggi 
(1883).  On  the  W.  side  is  the  bronze  Statue  of  Canning  (d.  1827), 
1)7  Weatmaeottj  near  which,  at  the  corner  of  Great  George  Street, 
is  a  handsome  Gothic  fountain,  erected  in  1863  as  a  memorial  to 
the  distingnished  men  who  brought  about  the  abolition  of  slavery 
in  the  British  dominions.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  square,  outside  West- 
minster Hall,  stands  a  fine  bronze  *Statue  of  Oliver  Cromwell  (1699- 
1658),  by  Hamo  Thomycrofl  (1899).  The  statue  is  10  ft.  high,  and 
stands  on  a  pedestal  12  ft.  in  height.  In  Old  Palace  Yard,  farther 
to  the  S.,  between  the  Houses  of  Parliament  and  Westminster 
Abbey,  rises  an  Equestrian  Statue  of  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  in 
bronze,  by  Marochetti. 

The  *Hoiiiei  of  Parliament,  or  New  Palace  of  Westminster  (PI. 
B,  25;  IV),  which,  together  with  "Westminster  Hall,  form  a  single 
pile  oif  buildings,  hare  been  erected  since  1840,  from  a  plan  by  Sir 
Charles  Barry,  which  was  selected  as  the  best  of  97  sent  in  for 
competition.  The  preyious  edifice  was  burned  down  in  1834.  The 
new  building  is  in  the  richest  late- Gothic  (Tudor  or  Perpendicular) 
style,  and  coTers  an  area  of  8  acres.  It  contains  11  courts,  100  stair- 
cases, and  1100  apartments,  and  has  cost  in  all  about  3,000, 000{. 
Although  BO  costly  a  national  structure,  some  serious  defects  are 
obseryable ;  the  external  stone  (dolomite)  is  gradually  crumbling, 
and  the  building  stands  on  so  low  a  level  that  the  basement  rooms 
are  said  to  be  lower  than  the  Thames  at  high  tide.  The  Clock  Tower 
(St,  Stephen's  Tower),  at  the  N.  end,  next  to  Westminster  Bridge, 
is  318  ft.  high;  the  Middle  Tower  is  300ft.  high;  and  the  S.W. 
Victoria  Tower,  the  largest  of  the  three  (75  ft.  sq.),  through  which 
the  King  enters  on  the  opening  and  prorogation  of  Parliament, 
attains  a  height  of  340  ft.  The  archway  is  65  ft  high.  The  large 
clock  has  four  dials,  each  23  ft.  in  diameter,  and  it  takes  five  hours 
to  wind  up  the  striking  parts.  A  light  in  the  Clock  Tower  by  night, 
and  the  Union  flag  flying  from  the  Victoria  Tower  by  day,  indicate 
that  the  ^House*  is  sitting.  The  great  Bell  of  the  Clock  Tower, 
popularly  known  as  'Big  Ben'  (named  after  Sir  Benjamin  Hall, 
First  Commissioner  of  Works  at  the  time  of  its  erection),  is  one  of 
the  largest  known,  weighing  no  less  than  13  tons.  It  was  soon  found 
to  have  a  flaw  or  crack,  and  its  tone  became  shrill,  but  the  crack 
was  filed  open,  so  as  to  prevent  vibration,  and  the  tone  became 
quite  pure.  It  is  heard  in  calm  weather  over  the  greater  part  of 
London.  The  imposing  river  front  (E.)  of  the  edifice  is  940  ft. 
in  length.  It  is  adorned  with  statues  of  the  English  monarchs 
from  William  the  Conqueror  down  to  Queen  Victoria,  with  armorial 
bearings,  and  many  other  enrichments. 


218  18.   HOUSES  OP  PARLIAMENT.     TheWestEnd. 

The  impression  prodnced  by  the  interior  is  in  its  way  no  less 
imposing  than  that  of  the  exterior.  The  tastefnl  fltting-up  of  the 
different  rooms,  some  of  which  are  adorned  down  to  the  minutest 
details  with  lavish  magnificence,  is  in  admirable  keeping  with  the 
office  and  dignity  of  the  building. 

The  Houses  of  Parliament  are  shown  on  Saturdays  from  10  to  4, 
(no  admission,  however,  after  3.30)  by  tickets  obtained  gratis  at 
the  entrance.  We  enter  on  the  W.  side  by  a  door  adjacent  to  the 
Victoria  Tower  (public  entrance  also  through  Westminster  Hall ; 
Handbook,  Qd,  or  la.,  unnecessary). 

Ascending  the  staircase  from  the  entrance  door,  we  first  reach 
the  Norman  Porch,  a  small  square  hall,  with  Gothic  groined  vault- 
ing, and  borne  by  a  finely  clustered  central  pillar.  We  next  enter 
(to  the  right)  the  Eino*s  Robino  Room,  a  handsome  chamber,  45  ft. 
in  length,  the  chief  feature  in  which  is  formed  by  the  fresco  paint- 
ings by  Wm.  Ihfce,  B,  -A.,  representing  the  virtues  of  chivalry,  the 
subjects  being  taken  from  the  Legend  of  King  Arthur.  Above  the 
fire-place  the  three  virtues  illustrated  are  Courtesy,  Religion,  and 
Generosity;  on  the  N.  side  are  Hospitality  and  Mercy.  The  fine 
dado  panelling  with  carvings  by  H,  H.  Armstead,  B,  A.,  illustrative 
of  Arthurian  legends,  the  rich  ceiling,  the  fireplace,  the  doors,  the 
flooring,  and  the  state-chair  at  the  E.  end  of  the  room  are  all  worthy 
of  notice.  Next  comes  the  Royal  or  Victokia  Gallery,  110  ft. 
long,  through  which  the  King,  issuing  from  the  King's  Robing 
Room  on  the  S.,  proceeds  in  solemn  procession  to  the  House  of 
Peers,  for  the  purpose  of  opening  or  proroguing  Parliament.  On 
these  occasions  privileged  persons  are  admitted  into  this  hall  by 
orders  obtained  at  the  Lord  Chamberlain's  Office.  The  pavement 
consists  of  fine  mosaic  work ;  the  ceiling  is  panelled  and  richly  gilt. 
The  sides  are  adorned  with  two  large  frescoes  in  water-glass  by 
Maclise:  on  the  left.  Death  of  Nelson  at  Trafalgar  (comp.  p.  162), 
and  on  the  right,  Meeting  of  Bliicher  and  Wellington  after  Waterloo. 
By  the  doors  in  this  gallery  (beginning  to  the  left)  are  bronze  statues 
of  Queen  Elizabeth,  William  III.,  Qneen  Anne,  King  Alfred, 
William  I.,  Richard  I.,  Edward  III.,  and  Henry  V. 

The  Pbince's  Chambbb,  the  smaller  apartment  entered  on  quit- 
ting the  Victoria  Gallery,  is  a  model  of  simple  magnificence,  being 
decorated  with  dark  wood  in  the  style  for  which  the  middle  ages 
are  famous.  Opposite  the  door  is  a  group  in  marble  by  Gt&son, 
representing  Queen  Victoria  enthroned,  with  allegorical  figures  of 
Clemency  and  Justice.  The  stained-glass  windows  on  the  W.  and 
E.  exhibit  the  rose,  thistle,  and  shamrock,  the  emblems  of  Eng- 
and,  Scotland,  and  Ireland.  In  the  panels  of  the  handsome 
wainscot  is  a  series  of  portraits  of  English  monarchs  and  their 
relatives  of  the  Tudor  period  (1485-1603). 

These  are  as  follows,  beginning  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  door: 
1.  Lonis  XII.  of  France;  2.  Mary,  daughter  of  Henry  VII.  of  England  and 


newest  End,     18.  HOUSES  OF  PARLIAMENT.  219 

wife  of  Loais  \  8.  Charles  Brandon,  Dnke  of  SniTolk,  Mary's  second  has- 
band;  4.  llarqnis  of  Dorset ;  5.  Lady  Jane  Qrey;  6.  Lord  Onildford  Dud- 
ley, her  hosband;  7.  James  IV.  of  Scotland  ^  8.  Qneen  Margaret,  danghtcr 
of  Henry  VII.  of  England  and  wife  of  James  (throngh  this  princess  the 
Stnarts  derived  their  title  to  the  English  throne)  \  9.  Barl  of  Angus,  sec- 
ond hnsband  of  Margaret,  and  Regent  of  Scotland ;  10.  James  V. ;  11.  Mary 
of  Gnise,  wife  of  James  V.,  and  mother  of  Mary  Stnart;  12.  Qaeen  Mary 
Stnart;  13.  Francis  II.  of  France,  Mary  Staart's  first  hnsband;  14.  Lord 
Damley,  her  second  husband;  15.  Henry  VII.;  16.  Elisabeth,  daughter  of 
Edward  IV.,  and  wife  of  Henry  (this  marriage  put  an  end  to  the  Wars  of 
the  Roses,  by  uniting  the  Houses  of  York  and  Lancaster);  17.  Arthur, 
Prince  of  Wales;  18.  Catharine  of  Aragon;  19.  Henry  VIII.;  20.  Anne 
Boleyn;  21.  Jane  Seymour;  22.  Anne  of  CI  eves;  23.  Catharine  Howard; 
24.  Catharine  Parr;  2B.  Edward  VL;  26.  Queen  Mary  of  England;  27. 
Philip  of  Spain,  her  husband ;  28.  Queen  Elisabeth. 

Oyer  these  portraits  rnns  a  frieze  with  oak  leaves  and  acorns 
and  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  English  soyereigns  since  the  Con- 
quest ;  helow,  in  the  sections  of  the  panelling,  are  12  reliefs  in 
oak,  representing  events  in  English  history  (Tudor  period). 

Two  doors  lead  from  this  room  Into  the  *Hou8e  of  Peeks,  which 
is  sumptuously  decorated  in  the  richest  Gothic  style.  The  oblong 
chamber,  in  which  the  peers  of  England  sit  In  council,  Is  90  ft.  in 
length,  45  ft.  broad,  and  45  ft.  high.  The  floor  is  almost  entirely  oc- 
cupied with  the  red  leather  benches  of  the  650  members.  The  twelve 
fine  stained-glass  windows  contain  portraits  of  all  the  kings  and 
queens  of  England  since  the  Conquest.  At  night  the  fiouse  is  lighted 
by  electricity.  Eighteen  niches  between  the  windows  are  occupied 
by  statues  of  the  barons  who  extorted  the  Magna  Charta  from 
King  John.  The  very  handsome  walls  and  ceiling  are  decorated 
with  heraldic  and  other  emblems. 

Above,  in  recesses  at  the  upper  and  lower  ends  of  the  room,  are  six 
frescoes,  the  first  attempts  on  a  large  scale  of  modern  English  art  in  this 
department  of  painting.  That  on  the  wall  above  the  throne,  in  the  centre, 
represents  the  Bsptism  of  King  Ethelbert  (about  696),  by  Dyee;  to  the 
left  of  it,  Edward  III.  investing  his  son,  the  'Black  Prince\  with  the 
Order  of  the  Garter,  by  Cope;  on  the  right.  Henry,  son  of  Henry  IV., 
acknowledging  the  authority  of  Judge  Gascoigne,  who  had  committed  the 
Prince  to  prison  for  striking  him ,  by  Redgrave.  '—  Opposite ,  at  the  N. 
end  of  the  chamber,  three  symbolical  pictures  of  the  Spirits  of  Religion, 
Justice,  and  Chivalry,  by  Eortley,  W,  C.  Thomae,  and  Maelise, 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  hall,  raised  by  a  few  steps,  and  covered 
witli  a  richly  gilded  canopy,  is  the  magnificent  throne  of  the  King. 
On  the  right  of  it  is  the  lower  throne  of  the  Prince  of  Wales, 
while  on  the  left  is  that  intended  for  the  sovereign's  consort.  At 
the  sides  are  two  large  gilt  candelabra. 

The  celebrated  woolsack  of  the  Lord  Chancellor,  a  kind  of 
cushioned  ottoman ,  stands  in  front  of  the  throne,  almost  in  the 
centre  of  the  hall.  —  At  the  N.  end  of  the  chamber,  opposite  the 
throne,  is  the  Bar,  where  official  communications  from  the  Com- 
mons to  the  Lords  are  delivered,  and  where  law-suits  on  final 
appeal  are  pleaded.  Above  the  Bar  are  the  galleries  for  the  re- 
porters and  for  strangers.  Above  the  throne  on  either  side  are  seats 
for  foreign  ambassadors  and  other  distinguished  visitors. 


220  18.   HOUSES  OP  PARLIAMENT.     The  West  End. 

From  the  House  of  Lords  we  pass  into  tlie  Pbbrs'  Lobby, 
another  rectangnlar  apartment,  richly  fitted  up,  with  a  door  on 
each  side.  The  brass  foliated  wings  of  the  southern  door  are  well 
worthy  of  examination.  The  comers  contain  elegant  candelabra  of 
brass.  The  encaustic  tiled  payement,  with  a  fine  enamel  inlaid 
with  brass  in  the  centre ,  is  of  great  beauty.  Each  peer  has  in 
this  lobby  his  own  hat-peg,  etc.,  provided  with  his  name. 

The  door  on  the  left  (W.)  side  leads  into  the  Pekbs'  Robimq  Boom 
(not  usually  shown),  which  is  decorated  with  frescoes  by  Herbert.  Two 
only  have  been  finished  (Moses  bringing  the  Tables  of  the  Law  from  Sinai, 
and  the  Judgment  of  Daniel). 

The  door  on  the  N.  side  opens  on  the  Pbebs'  Gobbidob,  the  way 
to  the  Central  Hall  and  the  House  of  Commons.  This  corridor  is  em- 
bellished with  the  following  eight  frescoes  (beginning  on  the  left) :  — 

1.  Burial  of  Charles  I.  (beheaded  1649)  j  2.  EzpxUsion  of  the  Fellows 
of  a  college  at  Oxford  for  refusing  to  subscribe  to  the  Covenant;  3.  Defence 
of  Basing  House  by  the  Cavaliers  against  the  Roundheads ;  4.  Charles  I. 
erecting  his  standard  at  Nottingham;  6.  Speaker  Lenthall  vindicating 
the  rights  of  the  House  of  Commons  against  Charles  I.  on  his  attempt  to 
arrest  the  five  members  \  6.  Departure  of  the  London  train-bands  to  the  relief 
of  Gloucester;  7.  Embarkment  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  for  New  England; 
8.  Lady  Russell  taking  leave  of  her  husband  before  his  execution. 

The  spacious  ^Central  Hall,  in  the  middle  of  the  building, 
is  octagonal  in  shape,  and  richly  decorated.  It  is  60  ft.  in  diameter 
and  76  ft.  higt.  The  surfaces  of  the  stone-vaulting,  between  the 
massive  and  richly  embossed  ribs,  are  inlaid  with  Venetian  mosaics, 
representing  in  frequent  repetition  the  heraldic  emblems  of  the  Eng- 
lish crown,  viz.  the  rose,  shamrock,  thistle,  portcullis,  and  harp. 
Lofty  portals  lead  from  this  ball  into  (N.)  the  Corridor  to  the  House  of 
Commons ;  to  (W.)  St.  Stephen's  Hall  j  to  (E.)  the  Waiting  Hall  (see 
below);  and  (S.)  the  House  of  Peers  (p.  219).  Above  the  first  and 
last  of  these  doors  are  St.  David  and  St.  George,  in  glass  mosaic, 
by  Poynter.  Here,  too,  are  statues  of  Lord  John  Russell  (d.  1878 ; 
by  Boehm),  Lord  Iddesleigh  (d.  1887;  by  Boehm),  the  Right  Hon. 
W.  E.  Gladstone  (d.  1898;  by  Pomeroy),  and  Lord  Granville  (d. 
1891;  by  Thornycroft). 

The  niches  at  the  sides  of  the  portals  bear  statues  of  English  sover- 
eigns. At  the  W.  door:  on  the  left,  Edward  I.,  his  consort  Eleanor,  and 
Edward  U. ;  on  the  right,  Isabella,  wife  of  King  John,  Henry  III.,  and 
Eleanor,  his  wife.  At  the  V.  door:  on  the  left,  Isabella,  wife  of  Edward  II., 
Henry  IV.,  and  Edward  HI.;  on  the  right,  Richard  II.,  his  consort,  Anne 
of  Bohemia,  and  Philippa,  wife  of  Edward  III.  At  the  E.  door:  on  the 
left,  Jane  of  Navarre,  wife  of  Henry  IV.,  Henry  V.,  and  his  wife  Cathar- 
ine; on  the  right,  Henry  VL,  Margaret,  his  wife,  and  Edward  VI.  At  the 
S.  door:  on  the  left.  Elisabeth,  wife  of  Edward  Iv.,  Edward  V.,  and  Rich- 
ard III.;  on  the  right,  Anne,  wife  of  Richard  III.,  Henry  VII.,  and  his  con- 
sort Elisabeth.    The  niches  in  the  windows  are  filled  with  similar  statues. 

Round  the  handsome  mosaic  pavement  runs  the  inscription  (in 
the  Latin  of  the  Yulgate),  ^Except  the  Lord  keep  the  house ,  their 
labour  is  but  lost  that  build  it\ 

A  door  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Central  Hall  leads  to  the  Hall  of  thb 
Poets,  also  called  the  Upper  Waiting  Hall  (not  usually  shown).  It  con- 
tains the  following  frescoes  of  scenes  from  English  poetry,  now  in  a  very 


The  West  End.     18.   HOUSES  OF  PARLIAMENT.  221 

dilapidated  condition^  and  mostly  covered  up :  —  Oricelda's  flrci  trial  of 
patience,  from  Chancer,  by  Cop*;  St.  George  eonauering  the  Dragon,  from 
Spenser,  by  Watts;  King  Lear  disinheriting  his  daughter  Cordelia,  from 
Shakapeare,  by  Herbert;  Satan  touched  by  the  spear  of  Ithuriel,  from  Hil- 
ton, by  Horakif;  St.  Cecilia,  from  Dryden,  by  Te/nntel;  Parsonilication  of  the 
Thames,  from  Pope,  by  AmUtage;  Death  of  Harmion,  from  Scott,  by  Ar- 
mitage;  Death  of  Lara,  from  Byron,  by  W.  Dyes, 

Beyond  the  N.  dooi  of  the  Gentr&l  Hall,  and  corresponding  with 
the  passage  leading  to  the  House  of  Lords  in  the  opposite  direction, 
is  the  Commons*  Co&ilidob,  leading  to  the  House  of  Commons.  It 
is  also  adorned  with  8  frescoes,  as  follows  (beginning  on  the  left) :  — 

1.  Alice  Lisle  concealing  fugitive  Cavaliers  after  the  battle  of  Sedge- 
moor  ;  2.  Last  sleep  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll  \  8.  The  Lords  and  Commons 
delivering  the  crown  to  William  and  Mary  in  the  Banqueting  Hall; 
4.  Acquittal  of  the  Seven  Bishops  in  the  reign  of  James  II.  (comp. 
p.  228);  6.  Honk  declaring  himself  in  favour  of  a  free  parliament; 
6.  Landing  of  Charles  II. ;  7.  The  executioner  hanging  Wishart^s  book 
round  the  neck  of  Hontrose ;  8.  Jane  Lane  helping  Charles  II.  to  escape. 

We  next  pass  through  the  Commons*  Lobby  to  the  — 
HousB  OP  Commons  ,  75  ft.  In  length ,  45  ft.  wide,  and  41  ft. 
high,  yery  substantially  and  handsomely  fitted  up  with  oak-panel- 
ling ,  in  a  simpler  and  more  business-like  style  than  the  House  of 
Lords.  The  present  ceiling,  which  hides  the  original  one,  was  con- 
structed to  improYe  the  lighting  and  ventilation.  The  members  of 
the  House  (670  in  number,  though  seats  are  provided  for  476  only) 
enter  either  by  the  public  approach,  or  by  a  private  entrance  through 
a  side-door  to  the  E.  of  Westminster  Hall  and  along  an  arcade 
between  this  hall  and  the  Star  Chamber  Court.  The  twelve  stained 
glass  windows  are  adorned  with  the  armorial  bearings  of  parliament- 
ary boroughs.  In  the  evening  the  House  is  lighted  through  the 
glass  panels  of  the  ceiling.  The  seat  of  the  Speaker  or  president 
is  at  theN.  end  of  the  chamber,  in  a  straight  line  with  the  woolsack 
in  the  House  of  Lords.  The  benches  to  the  right  of  the  Speaker 
are  the  recognized  seats  of  the  Government  Party ;  the  ministers 
occupy  the  f^ont  bench.  On  the  left  of  the  Speaker  are  the  mem- 
bers forming  the  Opposition,  the  leaders  of  which  also  take  their 
^  seats  on  the  front  bench.  In  front  of  the  Speaker's  table  is  the 
Clerks*  table,  on  which  the  Mace  lies  when  the  House  is  in  session. 
The  Reporters*  Gallery  is  above  the  speaker,  while  above  it  again, 
behind  an  iron  grating,  is  the  Ladies'  Gallery. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  House,  opposite  the  Speaker,  are  the 
galleries  for  strangers.  The  upper,  or  Members'  Gallery,  can  be 
visited  by  an  order  from  a  member  of  parliament.  To  a  portion  of 
the  lower,  or  Speaker's  Gallery ,  admission  is  granted  only  on  the 
Speaker's  order,  obtained  by  a  member ;  the  other  portion  is  appro- 
priated to  members  of  the  peerage  and  to  distinguished  strangers. 
Strangers  will  add  considerably  to  their  intelligent  appreciation  of 
the  scene  before  them  by  obtaining  a  copy  of  the  Order  of  the  Day 
from  the  ushers  (small  fee).  The  galleries  at  the  sides  of  the  House 
are  for  the  use  of  members,  and  are  deemed  part  of  the  House, 


222  18.  WESTMINSTER  HALL.     The  West  End, 

The  seats  andemeatli  the  galleries,  on  a  level  with  the  floor  of 
the  House,  but  outside  the  bar,  are  appropnated  to  the  peimanent 
officials  and]  to  distiuguished  strangeis. 

Permission  to  be  present  at  the  debates  of  the  Lower  House 
can  be  obtained  only  from  a  member  of  parliament.  The  House  of 
Lords,  when  sitting  as  a  Court  of  Appeal,  is  open  to  the  public ;  on 
other  occasions  a  peer's  order  is  necessary.  On  each  side  of  the 
House  of  Commons  is  a  ^Division  Lobby\  into  which  the  members 
pass,  when  a  vote  is  taken,  for  the  purpose  of  being  counted.  The 
*  Ayea',  or  those  who  are  favourable  to  the  motion,  retire  into  the  W. 
lobby,  to  the  right  of  the  Speaker;  the  *iVoe«',  or  those  who  vote 
against  the  motion,  retire  into  the  E.  lobby,  to  the  Speaker's  left. 

Returning  to  the  Central  Hall,  we  pass  through  the  door  at 
its  western  (right)  extremity,  leading  to  St.  Stephen's  Hall, 
which  is  75  ft.  long,  30  ft.  broad,  and  55  ft.  high.  It  occupies 
the  site  of  old  St.  Stephen's  Chapel ,  founded  in  1330,  and  long 
used  for  meetings  of  the  Commons.  Along  the  walls  are  marble 
statues  of  celebrated  English  statesmen:  on  the  left  (S.), 
Hampden,  Selden ,  Sir  Robert  Walpole ,  Lord  Chatham ,  his  son 
Pitt,  and  the  Irish  orator  Grattan ;  on  the  right  (N.") ,  Lord  Claren- 
don, Lord  Falkland,  Lord  Somers,  Lord  Mansfield,  Fox,  and  Burke. 
The  niches  in  the  comers  of  the  hall  are  occupied  by  statues  of 
English  sovereigns.  By  the  E.  door :  on  the  left,  Matilda,  Henry  II., 
Eleanor ;  on  the  right,  Richard  CoBur  de  Lion,  Berengaria,  and  John. 
By  the  W.  door :  on  the  left,  William  the  Conqueror,  Matilda,  Wil- 
liam II. ;  on  the  right,  Henry  I.  Beauclerc,  Matilda,  and  Stephen. 

A  broad  flight  of  steps  leads  hence  through  St.  Stephen's 
Porch  (62  ft.  in  height),  passing  a  large  stained-glass  window,  and 
turning  to  the  right,  to  Westminster  Hall. 

The  present  Westminster  Hall  is  part  of  the  ancient  Palace  of 
Westminster  founded  by  the  Anglo-Saxon  kings,  and  occupied  by 
their  successors  down  to  Henry  YIII.  The  hall  was  begun  by 
William  Rufus,  son  of  the  Conqueror,  in  1097,  continued  and 
extended  by  Henry  III.  and  Edward  I.,  and  almost  totally  destroyed 
by  fire  in  1291.  Edward  II.  afterwards  began  to  rebuild  it ;  and 
in  1398  Richard  II.  caused  it  to  be  remodelled  and  enlarged, 
supplying  it  with  a  new  roof.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  halls  in  the 
world  with  a  wooden  ceiling  unsupported  by  columns.  Its  length  is 
290  ft.,  breadth  68ft.,  and  height  92  ft.  The  oaken  roof,  with  its 
hammer-beams,  repaired  in  1820  with  the  wood  of  an  old  vessel  in 
Portsmouth  Harbour,  is  considered  a  masterpiece  of  timber  archi- 
tecture, both  in  point  of  beauty  and  constructive  skill. 

Westminster  Hall ,  which  now  forms  a  vestibule  to  the  Houses 
of  Parliament,  is  rich  in  interesting  historical  associations.  In 
it  were  held  some  of  the  earliest  English  parliaments,  one  of 
which  declared  Edward  II.  to  have  forfeited  the  crown;  and 
by  a   curious   fatality   the  first  scene    of  public  importance  in 


TheWestEnd.     18.  WESTMINSTER  HALL.  223 

the  new  hall ,  as  restored  or  rebuilt  by  Richard  II. ,  was  the 
deposition  of  that  unfortunate  monarch.  In  this  hall  the  English 
monarchs  down  to  Qeorge  IT.  gave  their  coronation  -  festiyals ; 
and  here  Edward  III.  entertained  the  captiye  kings,  David  of 
Scotland  and  John  of  France.  Here  Charles  I.  was  condemned 
to  death;  and  here,  a  few  years  later  (1653),  Cromwell,  wear- 
ing the  royal  purple  lined  with  ermine,  and  holding  a  golden 
sceptre  in  one  hand  and  the  Bible  in  the  other,  was  saluted  as  Lord 
Protector.  Within  eight  years  afterwards  the  Protector's  body  was 
rudely  dragged  from  its  resting-place  in  Westminster  Abbey  and 
thrust  into  a  pit  at  Tyburn,  while  his  head  was  exposed  with  those 
of  Bradshaw  and  Ireton  on  the  pinnacles  of  this  same  Westminster 
Hall,  where  it  remained  for  25  or  30  years.  A  high  wind  at  last 
earried  it  to  the  ground.  The  family  of  the  sentry  who  picked  it  up 
afterwards  sold  it  to  one  of  the  Russells,  a  distant  descendant  of 
Cromwell,  and  it  passed  finally  into  the  possession  of  Dr.  Wilkinson, 
one  of  whose  descendants,  at  Seyenoaks,  Kent,  claims  now  to  possess 
it.  Th«re  is  some  eyidence,  however,  that  the  Protector's  body,  after 
exhumation,  was  buried  in  Red  Lion  Square,  and  that  another,  sub- 
stituted for  it,  was  deprived  of  its  head  and  buried  at  Tyburn. 

Many  other  famous  historical  characters  were  condemned  to 
death  in  Westminster  Hall ,  including  William  Wallace ,  the  brave 
champion  of  Scotland's  liberties ;  Sir  John  Oldcastle ,  better  known 
as  Lord  Cobham ;  Sir  Thomas  More ;  the  Protector  Somerset ;  Sir 
Thomas  Wyatt ;  Robert  Devereux,  Earl  of  Essex ;  Guy  Fawkes ;  and 
the  Earl  of  Strafford.  Among  other  notable  events  transacted  at 
Westminster  Hall  was  the  acquittal  of  the  Seven  Bishops,  who  had 
been  committed  to  the  Tower  for  their  opposition  to  the  illegal 
dispensing  power  of  James  II. ;  the  condemnation  of  the  Scottish 
lords  Kilmarnock ,  Balmerino ,  and  Lovat ;  the  trial  of  Lord  Byron 
(grand-uncle  of  the  poet)  for  killing  Mr.  Chaworth  in  a  duel ; 
the  condemnation  of  Lord  Ferrars  for  murdering  his  valet;  and 
the  acquittal  of  Wanen  Hastings,  after  a  trial  which  lasted  seven 
years. 

The  last  public  festival  held  in  Westminster  Hall  was  at  the 
coronation  of  George  lY.,  when  the  King's  champion  in  full  armour 
rode  into  the  hall,  and,  according  to  ancient  custom,  threw  his 
gauntlet  on  the  floor,  challenging  to  mortal  combat  anyone  who  might 
dispute  the  title  of  the  sovereign.  The  ceremony  of  swearing  in 
the  Lord  Mayor  took  place  here  for  the  last  time  in  1882,  and  is 
now  performed  in  the  new  Law  Courts  (p.  155). 

On  theE.  side  of  the  hall  are  placed  the  following  marble  statues 
(beginning  from  the  left) :  Mary,  wife  of  William  III.,  James  I., 
Charles  I.,  Charles  II.,  William  III.,  George  IV.,  William  IV.  A 
tablet  on  the  E.  wall  marks  the  position  of  an  archway  which  formed 
the  chief  access  to  the  House  of  Commons  from  1547  to  1680.  It  was 
through  this  archway  that  Charles  L  passed  to-anest  the  Five  Members 


224  18.   ST.  MARGARET'S  CHURCH      The  West  End. 

on  Jan.  4th,  1641-42.  A  tablet  on  tlie  steps  and  another  near  the 
middle  of  the  floor  mark  the  spots  where  Charles  I.  and  Strafford 
(1641)  stood  during  their  trials. 

From  the  first  landing  of  the  staircase  leading  to  St.  Stephen's 
Hall  a  narrow  door  to  the  left  (E.)  leads  to  St.  Stephen's  Cbypt 
(properly  the  Church  of  8t,  Mary' a  Undercroft),  a  low  yanlted 
structure  supported  by  columns,  measuring  90  ft.  in  length,  28  ft. 
in  breadth,  and  20  ft.  In  height.  It  was  erected  by  King  Stephen, 
rebuilt  by  Edwards  II.  and  UI.,  and,  after  having  long  fallen  to 
decay,  has  recently  been  thoroughly  restored  and  richly  decorated 
with  painting  and  gilding.  8t.  Stephen's  Cloisters,  on  the  E.  side  of 
Westminster  Hall,  were  built  by  Henry  VIII.  and  have  been  lately 
restored.  They  are  beautifully  adorned  with  carving,  groining,  and 
tracery,  but  are  not  open  to  the  public.  The  other  multifarious 
portions  of  this  immense  pile  of  buildings  include  18  or  20  official 
residences  of  various  sizes,  libraries,  committee  rooms,  and  dining, 
refreshment,  and  smoking  rooms.  The  Terrace,  overlooking  the 
Thames,  is  much  resorted  to  by  members  and  their  friends  for  after- 
noon tea.  The  number  of  statues,  outside  and. inside,  Is  about  five 
hundred. 

On  the  W.  side  of  Westminster  Hall ,  and  to  the  N.  of  the 
Abbey,  stands  St.  Margaret'i  Church  (Pl.R,  25;  /V),  which,  down 
to  1858,  used  to  be  attended  by  the  House  of  Commons  in  state  on 
four  days  in  the  year ,  as  then  prescribed  in  the  Prayer  Book.  It 
was  erected  In  the  time  of  Edward  I.  on  the  site  of  an  earlier 
church  built  by  Edward  the  Confessor  In  1064,  and  was  greatly 
altered  and  Improved  under  Edward  IV.  The  stained-glass  window 
^  of  the  Crucifixion  at  the  E.  end  was  executed  at  Gouda  in  Holland, 
'  and  is  said  to  have  been  a  gift  from  the  town  of  Dordrecht  to 
Henry  VII.  Henry  VIII.  presented  it  to  Waltham  Abbey.  At  the 
time  of  the  Commonwealth  it  was  concealed,  and  after  various 
vicissitudes  It  was  at  length  purchased  in  1758  by  the  church- 
wardens of  St.  Margaret's  for  400^,  and  placed  in  its  present  position. 
William  Caxton,  whose  printing-press  was  set  up  in  1476-77  In 
the  Almonry,  formerly  standing  near  the  W.  front  of  Westminster 
Abbey,  was  burled  here  In  1491.  From  the  fact  of  a  chapel  existing 
in  the  old  almonry,  printers'  workshops  and  also  guild-meetings 
of  printers  are  still  called  *chapels'.  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  who  was 
executed  in  front  of  the  palace  of  Westminster  in  1618,  was  buried 
in  the  chancel .  The  church,  the  interior  of  which  was  restored  in 
1878,  is  open  dally,  except  Sat.,  10.30-1.30  (entr.  by  the  E.  or 
vestry  door,  facing  Westminster  Hall). 

The  porch  at  the  £.  door  was  erected  aa  a  memorial  of  Robert  Lowe^ 
Viscount  Sherbrook*  {d.  1894),  and  contains  a  marble  bust  of  him.  At  the 
E.  end  of  the  8.  aisle  is  a  stained-glass  window  placed  here  by  the  print- 
ers in  1882  in  memory  of  Caxton,  containing  his  portrait,  with  the  Ven- 
erable Bede  on  his  right  and  Erasmos  on  his  left.  On  a  tablet  below  the 
window  is  a  verse  by  Tennyson,  referring  to  Caxton's  motto,  ^FieU  lux^. 


TkeWest  End,     19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.  226 

To  the  right  of  the  doorway,  low  down,  is  a  bra«8  memorial  of  Raleigh,  < 
baried  hare  in  1618.  The  large  and  handiome  window  over  the  W.  door  i 
was  put  np  by  Americans  to  the  memory  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  in  1882} 
it  contains  portraits  of  Raleigh  and  several  of  his  distinguished  contem- 
poraries, and  also  scenes  connected  with  the  life  of  Raleigh  and  the 
colonisation  of  America.  The  poetic  inscription  on  the  Raleigh  window 
was  written  by  Hr.  J.  Russell  Lowell.  There  are  also  windows  in  the  S. 
wall  in  memory  of  Lord  and  Lady  Hatherley,  Phillips  Brooks,  Bishop  of 
Massachusetts  (d.  1898),  Sir  Thomas  Erskine  Hay  (d.  1886),  the  great 
authority  on  Constitutional  Law,  etc.,  and  also  one  erected  in  1887  in 
memory  of  Queen  Victorians  Jubilee ,  with  an  inscription  by  Browning. 
The  window  at  the  W.  end  of  the  8.  aisle  commemorates  Lord  Frederick 
Cavendish,  assassinated  at  Dublin  in  1882.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  N. 
aisle  is  a  memorial  window  (erected  by  Hr.  Q.  W.  Childs)  to  John  Hilton, 
whose  second  wife  and  infant  child  are  buried  here  and  whose  banns  are 
in  the  parish-register;  the  inscription  is  by  Whittier.  Edmund  Waller, 
Samuel  Pepys,  and  Thomas  Campbell  were  married  in  this  church.  In 
the  v.  wall  are  windows  to  Hr.  Edward  Lloyd  (1815-90),  printer  and 
publisher,  with  a  verse  by  Sir  Edwin  Arnold ;  to  Admiral  Blake  (d.  1667), 
'chief  founder  of  England's  naval  supremacy\  who  was  buried  in  St.  Har> 
garet's  churchyard  after  being  exhumed  from  Westminster  Abbey ;  and  to 
Mr.  W.  H.  Smith  (d.  1891),  leader  of  the  House  of  Commons  under  Lord 
Salisbury.  Besides  Raleigh  and  Caxton  the  church  shelters  the  remains  of 
Skelton  (d.  1609),  the  satirist,  and  James  Harrington  (d.  1677),  author  of 
*Oceana\  Perhaps  the  most  interesting  of  the  old  monuments  is  that  of  Ladp 
Dtidiep  (d.  16(X)),  with  its  painted  eflgy  (near  the  B.  end  of  the  S.  wall). 
Near  tliis  monument  is  a  brass  tablet  commemorating  the  ]a*e  Dean  Farrar's 
connection  with  St.  Hargaret's. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Houses  of  Parliament  are  the  Victoria 
Tower  Oardena  (PI.  R,  26;  iK),  abutting  on  the  Thames,  and  afToTd- 
Ing  a  fine  view  of  Westminster  Bridge.  —  Thence  to  the  Tate  OaUery^ 
see  p.  251. 

19.  Westminster  Abbey. 

Westminster  Column.    Westminster  School.   Church  House.    West'^ 
mifhster  Hospital,   Westminster  Cathedral. 

Westminster  Abbey  Is  open  to  the  public  daily  (Sun.  excepted),  except 
during  the  hours  of  divine  service,  till  4  p.m.  in  winter  and  6  p.m.  in 
summer.  Daily  services  at  9.15  (8  on  Sun.,  9  on  Saints'  days),  10,  and 
3  o'clock.  In  summer  there  is  a  special  Sunday  service  at  7  p.m.*  —  The 
nave,  aisles,  and  transept,  besides  the  cloisters  and  the  chapter-house  are 
open  gratis.  A  charge  of  6d.  (except  on  Hon.  A  Tues.)  is  made  for  ad- 
mission to  the  Chapel*  (p.  236),  which  are  shown  only  to  visitors  accom- 
panied by  a  verger.  Parties  thas  coi^ducted  start  about  every  1/4  hr.  from 
the  S.  gate  of  the  ambulatory.  A  charge  of  3d.  on  Hon.  and  Tues.,  on  other 
days  M..  is  made  for  admission  to  the  room  with  the  Wax  Effigies  (p.  2i5). 

The  Dest  guide  to  Westminster  Abbey  is  the  Deanery  Ouide,  by  M.  C.  and 
E.  T.  Bradktf.  published  by  the  Pall  Mall  Gazette  (illustrated;  price  6(1.). 
A  Ca(holic  Guide  has  been  published  by  Father  S.  W.  Leslie,  S.  J.  (1901).  -^ 
For  fuller  information  see  Dean  Stanley" »  Hemorials  of  Westminster  Abbey; 
Sir  G.  G.  Seolfi  Gleanings  from  Westminster  Abbey ;  and  Mrs.  A.  Murray 
SmithU  Westminster  Abbey :  its  Story  and  Associations  (1907).  —  Visitors 
are  cautioned  sgainst  accepting  the  useless  services  of  any  of  the  numerous 
loiterers  outside  the  church. 

On  the  low  ground  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Thames,  where 
Westminster  Abbey  now  stands ,  once  overgrown  with  thorns  and 
sunonnded  by  water ,  and  therefore  called  Thomey  Isle ,  a  church 

Bakdkkbs's  London.  15tb  Edit.  ^5 


226  19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.     ThtWestEnd. 

is  said  to  haye  been  erected  in  honour  of  St.  Peter  by  tbe  Anglo- 
Saxon  king  Sebeit  about  616.  With  the  church  wa«  connected 
a  Benedictine  religious  house  (monasterium,  or  minster),  which,  In 
reference  to  its  position  to  the  W.  of  the  Cistercian  Abbey  of  St. 
Mary  of  the  Graces  (Eastminster ;  see  p.  139),  was  called  •♦Wegt- 
miniter  Abbey  (PI.  R,  25 ;  IV). 

The  church,  officially  termed  the  CoUegiate  Church  of  St.  Peter, 
after  having  been  destroyed  by  the  Danes,  appears  to  haye  been 
re-erected  by  King  Edgar  in  985.  The  regular  establishment  of  the 
Abbey,  howeyer,  may  be  ascribed  to  Edward  the  Confessor,  who 
built  a  church  here  which  seems  to  haye  been  almost  as  large 
as  the  present  one  (1049-65).  The  Abbey  was  entirely  rebuilt 
in  the  latter  half  of  the  13th  cent,  by  Henry  III.  and  his  son  Ed- 
ward I.,  who  left  it  substantially  in  its  present  condition,  though 
important  alterations  and  additions  were  made  in  the  two  succeed- 
ing centuries.  The  Chapel  of  Henry  YII.  was  erected  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  16tb  cent.,  and  the  towers  were  added  by  Wren  and 
Hawkesmore  in  1722-40.  The  facade  of  the  N.  transept  was  restored 
in  1890  from  designs  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  and  Mr.  Pearson ;  and  the 
view  of  the  exterior  was  improved  in  1895  by  the  removal  of  several 
houses  in  Old  Palace  Yard.  At  the  Reformation  the  Abbey,  which 
had  been  richly  endowed  by  former  kings,  shared  in  the  geneial 
fate  of  the  religious  houses ;  its  property  was  confiscated,  and  the 
church  converted  into  the  cathedral  of  a  bishopric,  which  lasted 
only  from  Dec,  1640,  to  March,  1560.  Under  Queen  Mary  the  monks 
returned,  but  Elizabeth  restored  the  arrangements  of  Henry  Vlll., 
and  conveyed  the  Abbey  to  a  Dean,  who  presided  over  a  chapter  of 
12  Canons. 

Westminster  Abbey,  with  its  royal  burial-vaults  and  long  series 
of  monuments  to  celebrated  men,  is  not  unieasouably  regarded  by 
the  English  as  their  national  Walhalla,  or  Temple  of  Fame ;  and  in- 
terment within  its  walls  is  considered  the  last  and  greatest  honour 
which  the  nation  can  bestow  on  the  most  deserving  of  her  offspring. 
The  honour  has  often,  however,  been  conferred  on  persons  unworthy 
of  it,  and  even  on  children. 

^The  spaeiOQSneM  and  gloom  of  thia  vast  edifice  produce  a  profound 
and  mysterious  awe.  We  step  cautionsly  and  softly  about,  as  if  fearful 
of  disturbing  the  hallowed  silence  of  the  tomb ;  while  every  footfall 
whispers  along  the  walls,  and  chatters  among  the  sepulchres,  making  us 
more  sensible  of  the  quiet  we  have  interrupted.  It  seems  as  if  the  awful 
nature  of  the  place  presses  down  upon  the  soul,  and  hushes  the  beholder 
into  noiseless  reverence.  We  feel  that  we  are  surrounded  by  the  con- 
gregated bones  of  the  great  men  of  past  times ,  who  have  filled  history 
with  their  deeds,  and  the  earth  with  their  renown'.  —  WatMnffton  Irving. 

*When  I  look  upon  the  tombs  of  the  great,  every  emotion  of  envy  dies  in 
me:  when  I  read  the  epitaphs  of  the  beautiful,  every  inordinate  desire 
goes  out:  when  I  meet  with  the  grief  of  parents  upon  a  tombstone,  my 
heart  melts  with  compassion :  when  I  see  the  tombs  of  the  parents  them- 
selves, I  consider  the  vanity  of  grieving  for  Uiose  whom  we  must  quickly 
follow:  when  I  see  kings  lying  by  those  who  deposed  them,  when  I 
eonsider  rival  wits  placed  side  by  side,  or  the  holy  men  who  divided  the 


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fheWestEnd.    19.  WBSDMlNdtER  ABBSt.  227 

world  with  their  contests  and  disputes,  I  reflect  with  sorrow  and  astonishment 
on  the  little  competitions,  factions,  and  debates  of  mankind'.   —  AckUion. 

The  ohurch  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross.  The  mach  admired 
chapel  at  the  E.  end  is  in  the  Peipendicular  style.  The  other  parts 
of  the  church,  with  the  exception  of  the  unpleasing  and  incongruous 
W.  towers  hy  Wren,  and  a  few  doubtful  Norman  remains,  are  Early 
English.  The  Impression  produced  hy  the  interior  is  very  striking, 
owing  to  the  hannony  of  the  propori^lons,  the  richness  of  the  colour- 
ing, and  the  beauty  of  the  Purbeck  marble  columns  and  of  the  tri- 
forium.  In  many  respects,  however,  the  effect  is  sadly  marred  by 
restorations  and  by  the  egregiously  bad  taste  displayed  in  several  of 
the  monuments.  The  choir  extends  beyond  the  transept  into  the 
naye,  from  which  it  Is  separated  by  an  iron  screen.  In  front  of  the 
altar  is  a  curious  old  mosaic  pavement  with  tasteful  arabesques, 
brought  from  Rome  in  1268  by  Abbot  Ware.  The  fine  wood-work 
of  the  choir  was  executed  in  1848.  The  organ  was  entirely  rebuilt 
by  Mr.  Hill  in  1884,  and  stands  at  the  two  extremities  of  the 
screen  between  the  choir  and  the  nave.  It  is  connected  by  electric 
wires  with  an  echo  organ  in  the  triforium,  above  Tennyson's  monu- 
ment (p.  t235).  The  very  elaborate  and  handsome  reredos,  erected 
in  1867,  is  chiefly  composed  of  red  and  white  alabaster.  The  large 
figures  in  the  niches  represent  Moses,  St.  Peter,  St.  Paul,  and  David. 
The  recess  above  the  table  contains  a  fine  Venetian  glass  mosaic, 
by  Salviatij  representing  the  Last  Supper.  In  the  S.  bay  of  the 
sanctuary  is  a  portrait  of  Richard  II.  on  panel,  formerly  in  the 
Jerusalem  Chamber ,  the  oldest  contemporary  representation  of  an 
English  sovereign.  Behind  it  is  some  old  tapestry  from  Westminster 
School,  with  the  names  of  Westminster  scholars  painted  on  its  ends. 
The  Abbey  is  decorated  with  upwards  of  20  stained-glass  windows, 
all  of  which  are  modern,  with  the  exception  of  two  small  windows 
at  the  W.  end  of  the  nave  and  the  large  E.  window,  filled  with  frag- 
ments of  the  13-1 5th  centuries.  The  circular  window  in  the  S. 
transept,  reglazed  in  1902  as  a  memorial  to  the  Duke  of  West- 
minster, is  perhaps  the  largest  rose- window  in  the  world.  The 
glass  in  the  rose- window  in  the  N.  transept  dates  from  1722;  that 
in  the  great  W.  window  from  about  1760. 

The  total  length  of  the  church,  including  the  chapel  of  Henry  YII., 
is  513  ft. ;  length  of  the  transept  from  N.  to  S.,  200  ft. ;  breadth  of 
nave  and  aisles,  75  ft.,  of  transept,  80  ft. ;  height  of  the  church, 
102  ft.,  of  towers,  225  ft. 

The  Abbey  is  usually  entered  by  the  door  In  the  N.  transept, 
near  St.  Margaret's  Church  (adm.,  see  p.  225).  Solomon's  Porch, 
which  stood  here,  was  removed  in  the  17th  century.  —  The  follow- 
ing list  of  the  most  interesting  monuments,  which  do  not  in- 
variably imply  interment  in  the  Abbey,  begins  with  the  N.  transept, 
and  continues  through  the  N.  aisle,  the  S.  aisle,  and  the  S.  transept 
(Poets'  Comer),  after  which  we  enter  the  chapels. 

10' 


228  19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.     TheWestEnd, 

N.    Tbansept. 

On  tlie  right,  William  Pt«,  Lord  Chatham,  the  statesman 
(d.  1778),  a  large  monument  by  Bacon.  Abbye,  in  a  niche,  Chatham 
is  represented  in  an  oratorical  attitude ,  with  his  right  hand  out- 
stretched ;  at  his  feet  are  sitting  two  female  figures,  Wisdom  and 
Courage;  in  the  centre,  Britannia  with  a  trident;  to  the  right  and 
left,  Earth  and  Sea.  —  Opposite  — 

L.  John  Holies,  Duke  of  Newcastle  (d.  1711);  large  monument 
by  Bird,  in  a  debased  style.  The  sarcophagus  bears  the  semi-re- 
cumbent figure  of  the  Duke ;  to  the  right  is  Truth  with  her  mirror, 
on  the  left,  Wisdom.  —  Adjacent  — 

L.  *Oeorge  Canning,  the  statesman  (d.  1827);  statue  by  Chan- 
trey.  —  Adjacent,  his  son  — 

L.  Charles  John,  Viscount  Canning,  GoYernor-General  of  India 
(d.  1862),  statue  by  Foley. 

Close  by  is  their  lelative.  Viscount  Stratford  de  Bedcliffe  (d. 
1880),  long  British  ambassador  in  Constantinople ;  statue  by  Boehm, 
with  an  epitaph  by  Tennyson. 

L.  William  Cavendish,  Duke  of  Newcastle  (d.  1676),  and  his 
wife ;  a  double  sarcophagus,  with  recumbent  figures  in  the  costume 
of  the  period.  —  Adjacent  — 

L.  Sir  John  Malcolm,  General  (d.  1833),  one  of  the  chief  pro- 
moters of  the  British  power  in  India ;  statue  by  Chantrey. 

Adjacent,  Lord  Beaconsfield  (d.  1881) ;  statue  by  Boehm, 

11.  Lord  Palmer sion,  the  statesman  (d.  1865) ;  statue  by  Jadh- 
son,  in  the  costume  of  a  Knight  of  the  Garter.  —  Adjoining  — 

R.  Lord  Ca5t2erea^A,  the  statesman  (d.  1822);  statue  by  Thomas, 
The  scroll  in  his  hand  bears  the  (now  scarcely  legible)  inscription, 
»Peace  of  Paris,  1814'.  —  Next  to  it  — 

R.  *  William,  Lord  Mansfield,  the  statesman  and  judge  (d.  1793), 
by  Flaxman,  Aboye  is  the  Judge  on  the  judicial  bench ,  in  his 
official  robes ;  on  the  left  is  Justice  with  her  scales ,  on  the  right. 
Wisdom  opening  the  book  of  the  law.  Behind  the  bench  is  Lord 
Mansfield's  motto :  *uni  »quus  yirtuti',  with  a  youth  bearing  an  ex- 
tinguished torch.  —  Opposite  — 

L.  *Sir  Peter  Warren,  Admiral  (d.  1752),  by  Roubiliae.  Her- 
cules places  the  bust  of  the  Admiral  on  a  pedestal ,  while  Nayi- 
gation  looks  on  with  mournful  admiration. 

Adjacent,  WUliam  Ewart  Gladstone  (d.  1898) ;  statue  by  Brock. 
A  tablet  in  the  payement  of  the  gangway  in  front  marks  Glad- 
stone's graye,  in  which  Mrs.  Gladstone  was  also  laid  in  1900.  — 
Adjacent,  by  the  railing  of  the  ambulatory  — 

L.  Sir  Robert  Peel,  the  statesman  (d.  1850) ;  statue  by  Gibson. 

Henrf  Gratkm  (d.  1820),  Charles  Fox  (p.  231),  and  the  two  PtiU  are 
all  buried   in  this   transept     It  was  the  proximity  here  of  the  graves  of 
Fox  and  the  younger  Pitt  (p. 231)  that  suggested  Scott's  well-known  lines :  — 
^Drop  upon  Fox''s  grave  the  tear, 
'Twill  trickle  to  his  rival's  bier\ 


TheWestEnd.     19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.  229 

W.  AlSLB  OP  N.  T&ANflBPT. 

R.  Qtorgt  Gordon,  Earl  of  Aberdeen ,  the  statesman  (d.  1860), 
Byron^B  'travelled  Thane,  Athenian  Aberdeen* ;  bust  by  Noble, 

R.  *Elizabeth  Warren  (d.  1816),  widow  of  the  Bishop  of  Bangor, 
by  Wesimaeoit.  The  fine  monument  represents,  in  half  life-size, 
a  poor  woman  sitting  with  her  child  in  her  arms,  in  allusion  to 
the  beneyolence  of  the  deceased.  —  Adjoining  — 

R.  Sir  Oeorge  Comewall  Lewis,  statesman  (d.  1863) ;  bust  by 
Weekes,  —  Adjacent  — 

R.  Sir  Eyre  Coote,  General,  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  British 
forces  in  India  (d.  1783) ;  colossal  monument  by  Banks,  erected  by 
the  East  India  Company. 

R.  CharUs  Buller  (d.  1848),  the  statesman ;  bust  by  Weekes, 

R.  Francis  Horner,  M.  P.  (d.  1817);  statue  by  Chantrey. 

R.  Jonas  Hanway  (d.  1786),  the  philanthropist,  by  J.  F.  and 
•T.  Moore,  —  Opposite  — 

L.  Sir  John  BaUhen,  Admiral,  who  in  1744  was  lost  with  his 
flag-ship  and  crew  of  nearly  1000  men  in  the  English  Channel ; 
with  a  relief  of  the  wrecked  vessel,  by  Scheemakers. 

R.  General  Hope ,  Goyernor  of  Quebec  (d.  1789),  by  Bacon ;  a 
mourning  Indian  woman  bends  oyer  the  sarcophagus.  —  Above  — 

R.  Warren  Hastings,  Governor-General  of  India  (d.  1818); 
bust  by  Bacon. 

R.  Richard  Cobden,  the  politician  and  champion  of  free-trade 
(d.  1865) ;  bust  by  Woolner,  —  Above  — 

Sir  Henry  lifaine,  professor  of  jurisprudence  and  the  *friend  of 
India*  (d.  1888) ;  marble  medallion  by  Boehm, 

R.  Earl  of  Halifax,  the  statesman  (d.  1771);  bust  by  Bacon. 

At  the  end  of  the  passage,  in  three  niches  in  the  wall  above 
the  door,  separated  by  palm-trees,  is  the  monument  of  — 

Admiral  Watson  (d.  1757),  by  Scheemakers.  The  Admiral,  in 
a  toga,  is  standing  in  the  centre,  holding  a  palm-branch.  On  the 
right  the  town  of  Calcutta  on  her  knees  presents  a  petition  to  her 
conqueror.  On  the  left  is  an  Indian  in  chains,  emblematical  of 
Chandernagore,  also  conquered  by  the  Admiral. 

N.  AisLB  OP  Nave. 

On  the  left,  Sir  Thomas  Fowell  Buxton  (d.  1845),  Member  of 
Parliament,  one  of  the  champions  of  the  movement  for  the  abol- 
ition of  slavery,  by  Thrupp.  —  Above,  W.  E.  Forster  (d.  1886), 
M.  P.  and  educationalist;  medallion  portrait-head.  —  Farther  on  — 

L.  Balfe  (d.  1870),  the  composer,  medallion  by  Mallempre. 

L.  Hugh  Chamberlain,  physician  (d.  1728),  by  Scheemakers 
and  Delvaux;  recumbent  figure  upon  a  sarcophagus;  on  the  right 
and  left,  two  allegorical  figures,  representing  Health  and  Med- 
icine. 


230  19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.     The  West  End. 

R.  Tal)let8  to  Charles  Bumey  (d.  1814),  the  historian  of  magic, 
and  John  Blow  (d.  1708) ,  the  composer  and  organist.  —  Then  — 

R.  WUHam  Croft,  organist  of  the  Ahhey  (d.  1727),  with  a  bust. 
On  the  floor  are  the  tombstones  of  Henry  PureeU  (d.  1695),  or- 
ganist of  the  Abbey,  and  W.  StemdaU  Bennett  (d.  1875)  ^  the 
composer.  —  Above  — 

R.  *Oeorge  Lindsay  Johnstone  (d.  1815);  fine  monument  by 
Flaxman,  erected  by  the  sister  of  the  deceased. 

L.  *8ir  Thomas  Stamford  Raffles  J  Governor  of  Java  and  founder 
of  the  Zoological  Society  (d.  1826;  comp.  p.  285);  sitting  figure, 
by  Chantrey, 

L.  •  WiUiam  Wilberforce  (d.  1833),  one  of  the  chief  advocates 
for  the  emancipation  of  the  slaves ;  sitting  figure,  by  Joseph. 

L.  Charles  Darwin  (1809-82),  the  naturalist;  bronze  medallion 
by  Boehm,  —  James  Prescott  Joule  (d.  1889),  the  physicist;  tablet. 
—  John  Cotich  Adams  (d.  1892),  the  discoverer  of  the  planet  Nep- 
tune; medallion  by  Bruce  Joy. 

L.  Lord  John  Thynne,  D.  A,  Sub-Dean  of  the  Abbey  (d.  1881) ; 
recumbent  figure  by  Armstead, 

To  the  left,  at  the  end  of  the  choir :  — 

Sir  Isaac  Newton  (d.  1726),  by  Ryshrach.  The  half-recumbent 
figure  of  Newton  reposes  on  a  black  sarcophagus,  beside  which  are 
two  small  Genii  unfolding  a  scroll.  Below  is  a  relief  in  marble,  in- 
dicating the  labours  of  the  deceased.  Above  is  an  allegorical  figure 
of  Astronomy  upon  a  large  globe.  —  In  the  pavement  in  front  a 
small  tablet  marks  the  grave  of  Lord  Kelvin  (d.  1907),  the  eminent 
scientist. 

Charles  Darwin  (see  above)  and  Sir  John  Herschel  (d.  1871), 
the  astronomer,  are  buried  within  a  few  yards  of  Newton's  tomb 
(memorial  slabs  in  the  floor).  —  The  window  above  and  the  follow- 
ing window  are  respectively  memorials  of  Robert  Stephethson  (d. 
1859)  and  Joseph  Locke  (d.  1860),  the  engineers. 

R.  (in  the  N.  aisle)  Richard  Mead,  the  physician  (d.  1754), 
with  bust,  by  ScheemaJcers.  —  Above,  in  the  window :  — 

*  Spencer  Perceval,  Chancellor  of  the  Exchequer  and  First  Lord 
of  the  Treasury,  who  was  murdered  at  Westminster  Hall  in  1812. 
Recumbent  figure  upon  a  sarcophagus,  by  Westm.acott;  at  the  head 
a  mourning  figure  of  Strength,  and  at  the  foot  Truth  and  Mod- 
eration. The  relief  above  represents  the  murder ;  the  second  figure 
to  the  left  is  that  of  the  murderer,  Bellingham. 

Beside  the  pillar  to  the  left  is  now  placed  an  old  Pulpit  of  the 
Reformation  period,  probably  the  one  in  which  Oranmer  preached 
the  coronation  and  funeral  sermons  of  Edward  VI. 

R.  Mrs,  Mary  Beaufoy  (d.  1705) ;  group  by  OrirUir^g  Oibborhs. 

R.  Thomas  Banks  (d.  1805),  the  sculptor;  tablet. 

In  front  of  this  monument  Ben  Jonson  is  buried  (p.  236),  with 
the  words  *0  Rare  Ben  Johnson  I '  cut  in  the  pavement  The  stone 


The  West  End.     19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.  231 

with  tlie  original  inscription  is  now  bnilt  into  tbe  wall  close  to  the 
floor  beneath  Banks's  monument.  Close  by,  under  a  modem  brass, 
lies  John  Hunter  (d.  1793),  the  celebrated  surgeon  and  anatomist, 
brought  here  in  1859  from  St.  Martin's  in  the  Fields.  —The  win- 
dow above  was  erected  to  the  memory  of  Uambard  Brunei  (d.  1859), 
the  engineer. 

R.  Dr,  John  Woodward  (d.  17^),  the  'founder  of  English  geo- 
logy' ;  monument  by  ScKeemakere.  —  Aboye  — 

R.  Sir  Charles  LyeU,  the  geologist  (d.l875),  bust  by  Theed  (also 
slab  on  the  floor).  —  The  next  window  commemorates  Richard 
Trevithiek  (d.  1833),  the  engineer. 

R.  ^Charles  James  Fox  (d.  1806),  by  Westmacott.  The  famous 
statesman  is  supported  by  the  arms  of  Liberty;  at  his  feet  are 
Peace,  with  an  olive-branch,  and  a  liberated  negro  slave. 

We  have  now  reached  the  Belfry  Tower,  called  by  Dean  Stanley 
the  *Whig  Comer*. 

R.  *  Captain  Montagu  (d.  1794) ,  by  Flaxman,  Statue  on  a 
lofty  pedestal,  crowned  by  the  Goddess  of  Victory. 

R.  VUeour^  Howe  (d.  1768) ;  monument  by  Scheemdkers^  erected 
by  the  Province  of  Massachusetts  before  its  separation  from  the 
mother-country. 

R.  Sir  James  Mackintosh,  the  historian  (d.  1832);  bust  by  Theed. 

R.  Oeorge  Tiemey ,  the  orator  f  d.  1830) ;  bust  by  Westmacott. 

R.  Marquis  of  Lansdowne  (d.  1863);  bust  by  Boehm, 

R.  Lord  Holland,  the  statesman  (d.  1840);  large  monument,  by 
Baily,  Below  is  represented  the  entrance  to  a  vault,  on  the  steps 
to  which  on  the  left  the  Angel  of  Death,  and  on  the  right  Litera- 
ture and  Science  are  posted. 

R.  John,  Earl  Russell  fd.  1878),  bust. 

R.  Zachary  Maeaulay  (d.  1838) ,  the  father  of  Lord  Macaulay, 
and  a  noted  advocate  of  the  abolition  of  slavery ;  bust  by  Weekes, 

R.  (above  the  door),  General  Gordon  (d.  1886) ;  bronze  bust  by 
Onslow  Ford. 

Having  now  reached  the  end  of  the  N.  aisle,  we  turn  to  the 
left  (S.),  where  on  the  N.  side  of  the  principal  (W.)  Entiulncb,  at 
the  end  of  the  nave,  we  observe  the  monuments  of  — 

Antony  Ashley  Cooper,  Earl  of  "Shaftesbury  (d.  1885),  a  marble 
statue  by  Boehm,  and  — 

Jeremiah  Horrocks,  the  astronomer  (d.  1641).  Above  the  door 
is  the  monument  of  — 

*  William  Pitt,  the  renowned  statesman  (d.  1806),  by  Westma- 
cott. At  the  top  stands  the  statue  of  Pitt  as  Chancellor  of  the 
Exchequer,  in  the  act  of  speaking.  To  the  right  is  History  listen- 
ing to  his  words ;  on  the  left.  Anarchy  in  chains. 

R.  James  Comewall,  Captain  (d.  1743),  by  Taylor.  At  the  foot  of 
a  low  pyramid  of  Sicilian  marble  is  a  grotto  in  white  marble,  with  4 
relief  of  the  naval  battle  Qf  Toulon,  where  Cornewall  fell. 


232  19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.     The  West  End, 

S.    AlSLB  OF  NaYE. 

In  the  old  baptistery  at  the  W.  end  (called  by  Dean  Stanley 
*Llttle  Poets*  Comer*) :  — 

B,,  James  Craggs,  Secretary  of  State  (d.  1721);  statue  hyOuelphi^ 
with  inscription  hy  Pope. 

William  Wordsworth^  the  poet  (d.  1850) ;  statae  by  Thrupp. 

Rev.  John  KebU  (d.  1866) ;  bust  by  Woolner, 

The  baptistery  also  contains  busts,  by  Woolrher,  of  the  Rev, 
Fred,  D.  Maurice  (d.  1872)  and  the  Rev,  Charles  Kingsley  (d.  1875), 
one  of  Matthew  Arnold  (d.  1888),  by  Bruce  Joy^  one  of  Dr.  Thomas 
Arnold  (d.  1842),  by  OUbert,  and  a  bronze  medallion  of  Professor 
Henry  Fawcett  (d.  1884),  by  Alfred  Qilhert,  with  a  row  of  small 
allegorical  figures.  The  stained-glass  windows  were  placed  here  by 
Mr.  George  W.  Childs  of  Philadelphia  in  memory  of  George  Herbert 
(d.  1632)  and  William  Cowper  (d.  1800). 

We  now  continue  to  follow  the  S.  aisle.  Slab  on  the  floor: 
Bishop  Atterbury  (d.  1732).  In  the  same  vault,  Dean  Bradley 
(1821-1903),  To  the  right,  above  the  door  leading  to  the  Deanery, 
is  the  Abbot's  Pew,  a  small  oaken  gallery,  constructed  by  Abbot 
Islip  In  the  16th  century. 

Below  the  Abbot's  Pew :  William  Congreve,  the  dramatist  (d. 
1728),  by  Bird,  with  a  medallion  and  a  sarcophagus  of  Egyptian 
marble.  The  monument  was  erected  by  Henrietta,  Duchess  of 
Marlborough.  —  Slab  on  the  floor:  Ann  Oldfield  (d.  1730),  the 
actress. 

R.  William  Buekland,  the  geologist  (d.  1856);  bust  by  Weekes, 

R.  Lord  Lawrence  (d.  1879),  Governor- General  of  India ;  bust 
by  Woolner,  —  Above  the  door  to  the  cloisters  (see  p.  247)  — 

*Qeorge  Wade,  General  (d.  1748),  \ty  Roubiliac,  The  Goddess 
of  Fame  is  preventing  Time  from  destroying  the  General's  trophies, 
which  are  attached  to  a  column. 

R.  iSir  James  Outram,  General  (d.  1863) ;  bust  by  Noble.  Below 
are  Outram  and  Lord  Clyde  shaking  hands,  and  between  them  is 
General  Havelock.  At  the  sides  are  mourning  figures,  represent- 
ing Indian  tribes.  —  Above,  occupying  the  whole  recess  of  the 
window,  — 

R.  William  Hargrove,  General  (d.  1750),  by  Roubiliae.  The 
General  is  descending  from  his  sarcophagus,  while  Time,  represent- 
ed allegorically,  conquers  Death  and  breaks  his  arrow. 

Adjacent  is  a  tablet  recording  the  burial  in  the  nave  of  Sir  William 
Temple  (d.  1699)  and  his  \vife,  Dorothy  Osborne  (d.  1695). 

Sidney,  Earl  Oodolphin  (d,  1712),  Lord  High  Treasurer,  by 
Bird. 

R.  Colonel  Towrhshend,  who  fell  in  Canada  in  1759,  by  Eck- 
stein. Two  Indian  warriors  bear  the  white  marble  sarcophagus, 
which  is  adjoined  by  a  pyramid  of  coloured  Sicilian  marble. 

R.  John  Ar^drS,  Major,  executed  in  America  as  a  spy  in  1780. 


TheWestEnd.     19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.  233 

SaTcopbagas  with  mourning  Britannia,  by  Van  Oelder.  The  wreath 
of  autnmn  leayes  above  was  presented  by  tome  AmericanB.  — 
Opposite,  In  the  naye,  by  the  end  of  the  choir :  — 

James,  Earl  Stanhope,  ambassador  and  minister  of  war  (d. 
1720),  by  Rysbrach.  —  Then,  returning  to  the  S.  aisle :  — 

L.  Thomas  Thynn,  mnrdered  in  Pall  Mall  in  1682  by  assassins 
hired  by  Gonnt  Koningsmarck ,  whose  object  was  the  hand  of 
Thynn's  wife ,  a  wealthy  heiress,  by  Qudlin,  The  relief  on  the 
pedestal  is  a  representation  of  the  murder. 

R.  Dr,  Isaac  Watts,  the  famous  divine  and  hymn- writer  (d. 
1748),  with  bust  by  Banks. 

Below,  Colonel  Joseph  Lemuel  Chester  (d.  1882),  a  tablet  ^in 
grateful  memory  of  the  disinterested  labour  of  an  American  master 
of  English  genealogical  leamiDg\ 

B.  John  Wesley,  founder  of  the  Methodists  (d.  1791),  and 
CharUs  Wesley  (d.  1788),  by  Van  Qelder,  with  relief  by  Adams- 
Acton. 

R.   Charles  Burrhey,  philologist  (d.  1818) ;  bust  by  Odhagan, 

L.  Thomas  Owen,  judge  (d.  1598);  an  interesting  old  painted 
monument,  with  a  lifesize  recumbent  figure  leaning  on  the  right 
arm.  —  By  the  adjoining  pillar  — 

L.  Pasquale  Paoli,  the  well-known  Corsican  general  (d.  1807), 
formerly  buried  in  old  St.  Pancras  Churchyard,  but  transferred  to 
Corsica  in  1889;  bust  by  Flaxman. 

R.  Sir  Cloudesley  Shovel,  Admiral  (d.  1707),  by  Bird,  recumbent 
tfgure  under  a  canopy.  —  Above  — 

Sir  Godfrey  Kneller,  the  painter  (d.  1723),  by  Ryshrach,  The 
monument  was  designed  by  Kneller  himself,  who  is  the  only 
painter  commemorated  in  the  abbey.  He  was  buried  in  his  own 
garden,  at  Kneller  Hall,  Twickenham. 

Here  is  a  door  leading  to  the  E.  walk  of  the  cloisters  and  to  the 
chapter-house  (p.  247). 

L.  Sir  Thomas  Richardson,  judge  (d.  1634),  old  monument  by 
Le  Soeur, 

L.  WiUiam  Thynne  (d.  1684);  a  fine  old  monument  in  marble 
and  alabaster,  with  a  recumbent  effigy. 

L.  Dr.  Andrew  Bell,  the  founder  of  the  Madras  system  of  edu- 
cation (d.  1832),  with  relief  representing  him  examining  a  class 
of  boys,  by  Behnes. 

In  the  middle  of  the  nave  lie,  amongst  others,  David  Living- 
stone, the  celebrated  African  traveller  (d.  1873),  Archbishop  Trench 
(d.  1886),  Sir  Charles  Barry,  the  architect  (d.  1860),  Robert  Stephen- 
son, the  engineer  (d.  1859),  Lord  Clyde  (d.  1863),  Sir  James 
Outram  (d.  1863 ;  the  ^Bayard  of  India'),  Sir  Oeorge  Pollock  (d. 
1872),  Lord  Lawrence  (d.  1879),  Sir  0.  0.  Scott,  the  architect  (d. 
1878;  with  a  brass  by  Street),  and  0.  E.  Street  (d.  1881),  the 
architect  of  the  New  Law  Courts.    Oeorge  Peahody  (d.  1869),  the 


234  19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.     TheWestEnd, 

American  philanthropist,  was  temporarily  interred  here  heneath  the 
stone  bearing  his  name;  his  remains  were  later  removed  to  Massa- 
chnsetts. 

We  now  turn  to  the  right  and  enter  the  — 

S.  Transbpt  and  Pobts*  Oo&nbb. 

On  the  right:  Oeorge  OroU  (d.  1871)  and  Bishop  Thirlwall 
(d.  1875),  two  historians  of  Greece  who  now  share  one  grave.  Grote's 
hast  is  by  Bcicon, 

•R.   William  Camden,  the  antiquary  (d.  1623).   Ahove  — 

David  Oarrieky  the  famous  actor  (d.  1779) ;  large  group  In  relief, 
hy  Webber,  Garrick  Is  stepping  out  from  behind  a  curtain,  which 
he  opens  with  extended  arms.  Below  are  the  comic  and  the  tragic 
Muse.  —  Below  — 

laaae  Casauborhj  the  scholar  (d.  1614).  On  this  stone,  near  the 
foot,  is  the  monogram  I.  W.,  scratched  here  hy  Izaak  Walton  In 
1658. —  Above — 

John  Ernest  Orabe,  the  Oriental  scholar  (d.  1711);  sitting 
figure  by  Bird.  —  Several  uninteresting  monuments ;  then  — 

Isaac  Barrow,  the  scholar  and  mathematician  (d.  1677). 

Jodeph  Addison,  the  essayist  (d.  1719;  p.  240);  statue  by 
Westmacott.   On  the  base  are  the  Muses  In  relief. 

Lord  Maeaulay,  the  historian  (d.  1859) ;  bust  by  Bumard. 

W.  Af.  Thackeray,  the  novelist  and  humorist  (d.  1863);  bust  hy 
Maroehetti.  —  Above  — 

Oeorge  Frederick  Handel,  the  composer  (d.  1759),  the  last  work 
from  the  chisel  of  Roubiliac;  Ufesize  statue  surrounded  by  music 
and  instruments ;  above,  among  the  clouds,  a  heavenly  choir ;  In 
the  background,  an  organ.  —  Below,  Jenny  Lind-Ooldschmidt,  the 
singer  (d.  1887);  medallion  portrait-head,  by  Birch. 

By  the  S.  wall :  — 

*John,  Duke  of  Argyll  and  Greenwich  (d.  1743)  ;  a  large  monu- 
ment hy  Roubiluus.  On  a  black  sarcophagus  rests  the  half-recumb- 
ent llfesize  figure  of  the  Duke,  supported  by  History,  who  is 
writing  his  name  on  a  pyramid ;  on  the  pedestal,  to  the  left.  Elo- 
quence, to  the  right.  Valour.  —  Sir  Walter  Scott  (d.  1832),  replica 
of  the  bust  hy  Chantrey,  placed  here  In  1897.  Above,  medallion  of 
John  Ruskin  (1819-1900),  by  Onslow  Ford. 

A  door  here  leads  into  the  Chapel  of  St.  Blaise  or  St.  Faith,  with 
Its  lofty  groined  roof.    The  chapel  is  open  for  private  devotions. 

Above  the  doorway  of  the  chapel :  — 

Oliver  Goldsmith  (d.  1774),  buried  at  the  Temple  (p.  164); 
medallion  by  Nollekens.  —  Then  — 

John  Gay,  the  poet  (d.  1732),  by  Rysbraeh.  A  small  Genius  holds 
the  medallion.  The  irreverent  inscription,  by  Gay  himself,  runs :  — 
^Life  is  a  jest ;  and  all  things  show  it  : 
I  thought  so  once,  but  now  J  know  it\ 


ThcWestEnd,     19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.  235 

NicoloB  Rowe,  the  poet  (d.  1718),  and  his  only  daughter,  hy 
Bysbraeh,   Above,  the  medallion  of  the  daughter.  —  Then  — 

Jame8  Thomaon^  the  poet  of  the  ^Seasons'  (d.  1748) ;  statue  hy 
Spang,  —  Adjacent  — 

*WiUiam  Shakspeare  (d.  1616),  designed  hy  iTent,  and  executed 
by  Scheemakers.  The  figure  of  the  Poet,  placed  on  a  pedestal  re- 
sembling an  altar ,  is  represented  with  the  right  arm  leaning  on 
a  pile  of  his  works ;  the  left  hand  holds  a  roll  bearing  a  well-known 
passage  from  *The  Tempest'.  On  the  pedestal  are  the  masks  of 
Queen  Elizabeth,  Henry  V.,  and  Richard  111. 

Above,  Robert  Bums  (d.  1796),  bust  by  SUell. 

Robert  Soutkey,  the  poet  (d.  1843),  bust  by  Weekes, 

8,  T.  CoUridgey  the  poet  (d.  1834),  bust  by  Hamo  Thomycroft. 

—  Then,  opposite  Addison's  statue,  — 

Thomas  Campbell,  thepoetfd.  1844),  statue  Itj  Marshall,  — The 
grave  of  Charles  Dickens  (d.  1870)  is  between  the  statues  of  Ad- 
dison and  Campbell,  and  is  adjoined  by  the  tombs  of  Handel  and 
Sheridan.  Garrick,  Francis  Beaumont,  Sir  John  Denham,  the  Rev. 
Henry  Gary  (translator  of  Dante),  James  MacPherson  (of  *Ossian' 
fame).  Dr.  Johnson,  Macaulay,  and  Sir  Henry  Irving  (d.  1905)  are 
also  buried  in  the  Poets'  Corner. 

Passing  round  the  pillar  we  now  enter  the  — 

E.  AlSLB  OF  THB  POBTs'  COKNBIL. 

On  the  right.  Ldrd  Tennyson,  the  poet  (d.  1892),  bust  by 
T,  Woolner  (strangely  unlike  all  the  better-known  portraits  of 
the  poet).  —  Oranville  Sharp  (d.  1813),  one  of  the  chief  ad- 
vocates for  the  abolition  of  slavery,  medallion  by  Chantrey,  — 
Above  — 

Charles  de  St.  Denis,  Seigneur  de  St.  Evremond,  French  author 
and  marshal,  afterwards  in  the  service  of  England  (d.  1703),  bust. 

—  Below  — 

Matthew  Prior,  politician  and  poet  (d.  1721),  large  monument 
by  Rysbrach,  In  a  niche  is  Prior's  bust  by  Coytevox  (presented  by 
Louis  XIV.  of  France);  below,  a  black  sarcophagus,  adjoined  by  two 
allegorical  figures  of  (r.)  History  and  (1.)  Thalia.  At  the  top  are  two 
boys,  with  a  torch  and  an  hour-glass.  —  Then  — 

William  Mason,  the  poet  (d.  1797) ;  medallion,  mourned  over 
by  Poetry,  by  Bacon.  —  Over  it  — 

Thomas  Shadwell,  the  poet  (d.  1692),  by  Bird.  —  Below  — 

Thomas  Gray,  the  poet  (d.  1771);  medallion,  held  by  the  Muse 
of  poetry,  by  Bacon.  —  Above  — 

John  Milton  (d.  1674;  buried  in  St.  Giles's  Church,  Cripple- 
gate),  bust  by  Rysbrach  (1737).  Below  is  a  lyre,  round  which  is 
twining  a  serpent  with  an  apple,  in  allusion  to  ^Paradise  Lost'.  — 
Below  — 


236  19.   WESTMINSTfcR  ABBEY.     TheWestEnd. 

Edmund  Spenser  (d.  1598 ;  buried  near  Ghaacer),  Hhe  prince  of 
poets  In  his  tyrne*,  as  the  inscription  says;  a  simple,  altar-like 
monument,  with  ornaments  of  light -coloured  marble  aboye.  — 
Above  — 

/Sfamu«{  But{ef,author  of  *nudibras'  (d.  1680),  with  bust.— Then : 

Ben  Jonson  (d.  1637),  poet  laureate  to  James  I.,  and  contem- 
porary of  Shakspeare ;  medallion  by  Rysbrach  (1737) ;  on  the  ped- 
estal the  inscription,  *0  rare  Ben  Johnson  I*  (comp.  p.  230). 

Michael  Drayton^  the  poet  (d.  1631),  with  bust. 

Barton  Booths  the  actor  (d.  1733),  an  ancestor  of  Edwin  Booth, 
with  medallion,  by  Tyler, 

John  PhillipSy  the  poet  (d.  1708) ;  portrait  in  relief. 

The  tomb  of  Geoffrey  Chaucer  (d.  1400),  the  father  of  English 
poetry,  is  on  the  same  side,  close  by,  and  consists  of  an  altar-sarco- 
phagus (supposed  to  be  from  Grey  Friars  Church,  comp.  p.  97)  under 
a  canopy  let  into  the  wall  (date,  1555).  The  tomb  was  erected  by 
Nicholas  Brigham  (d.  1558),  who  is  said  to  have  removed  Chaucer's 
remains  from  the  cloister.  —  Above  it  is  a  flue  stained-glass  window, 
erected  in  1868,  with  scenes  from  Chaucer's  poems,  and  a  likeness 
of  the  poet. 

Ahraham  Cowley^  the  poet  (d.  1667),  with  urn,  "by  Bushnell. 

Robert  Browning,  the  poet  (d.  1889),  is  buried  directly  in  front 
of  Cowley's  monument;  and  side  by  side  with  him  lies  Lord 
Tennyson,  poet  laureate  (see  p.  235). 

H.  W.  Longfellow,  the  poet  (d.  1882);  bust  by  Brock. 

John  Dry  den,  the  poet  (d.  1700)  ;  bust  by  Scheemakers. 

Archbishop  Tail  (d.  1883);  marble  bust  by  Armstead  (at  the 
entrance  to  the  choir-ambulatory). 

Robert  South,  the  preacher  (d.  1716) ;  statue  by  Bird. 

Richard  Busby  (d.  1695 ;  see  p.  249) ;  statue  by  Bird. 

In  front  of  Dry  den's  tomb  is  a  blue  slab  in  the  floor,  believed 
to  commemorate  Robert  Hawle,  murdered  in  the  choir  in  1378  by  the 
followers  of  John  of  Gaunt.  The  church  was  closed  for  four  months 
until  the  outraged  privileges  of  sanctuary  were  again  confirmed  to 
it.  —  In  the  centre  of  the  S.  transept  is  a  white  slab,  covering  the 
remains  of  ^Old  Parr'  (d.  1635),  who  is  said  to  have  reached  the  age 
of  152  years. 

To  the  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  ambulatory  is  an  old  altar 
decoration  of  the  13th  or  14th  cent.,  below  which  is  the  old  monument 
of  the  Saxon  king  Sebert  (p.  226)  and  his  wife  Athelgoda  (d.  615). 

Choib  Chapels. 

We  now  repair  to  the  •Chapbls,  which  follow  each  other  in  the 
following  order  (starting  from  the  Poets'  Corner).  Adm. ,  see  p.  225; 
tickets  are  issued  at  the  entrance  (except  on  Mon.  and  Tues.);  also 
tickets  for  the  room  with  the  wax  effigies  (p.  245). 


TUWettEnd.    19.  WESTHIN8TBB  ABBEY. 


237 


I.   Chapel  of  St.  Benbdict. 

1.  Archbishop  Langham  (d.  ISTG*);  with  recumbent  figure. 

2.  Lady  Frances  Hertford  (d.  1598). 

3.  I>r.(?oorfman,DeanofWe8tniin8teT(d.  1601).    ^(» j — 

4.  A  Bon  of  Dr.  Spratt. 
•5.  Lionel  Cranfield,  Earl  of  Middlesex  (d.  1645), 

Lord  Uigh  Treasurer  in  the  time  of  James  I.,  and 
his  wife. 

6.  Dr.  BiW(d.  1561),  first  Dean  of  Westminster 
under  Elizabeth. 

Near  this  is  the  tomh  ot  Ann  of  Cleves  (d.  1557)j  fourth  wife  of 
Henry  VIII. 

II .    Chapel  op  St.  Edmund,  King  of  the  East  Anglians  (d.  870). 

*1.  John  ofEltham,  second  son  of  Edward  II.,  who  died  in  1334 

In  his  nineteenth  year.  Sarcophagus  with 

lifesize  alabaster  figure . 

2.  Earl  of  Stafford  (d.  1762) ;  slab, 
by  Chambers. 

3.  Nicholas  Monk  (d.  1661),  Bishop 
of  Hereford,  brother  of  the  famous  Duke 
of  Albemarle  (p.  240);  slab  and  pyramid, 
by  Woodman. 

4.  WiUiam  of  Windsor  And.  Blanche  de 
la  Tour  (d.  1340),  children  of  Edward  HI.,  who  both  died  young; 
small  sarcophagus,  with  recumbent  alabaster  figures  20  in.  In 
length. 

5.  Duchess  of  Suffolk  (d.  1558),  grand-daughter  of  Henry  VII. 
and  mother  of  Lady  Jane  Grey ;  recumbent  figure. 

6.  Francis  Holies,  son  of  the  Earl  of  Clare,  who  died  in  1622,  at 
the  age  of  18,  on  his  return  from  a  campaign  in  Flanders,  in  which 
he  had  greatly  distinguished  himself;  sitting  figure,  by  Stone. 

7.  Lady  Jane  Seymour  (d.  1560),  daughter  of  the  Duke  of 
Somerset. 

8.  Lady  Katharine  Knollys  (d.  1568),  chief  Lady  of  the  Bed- 
chamber to  Queen  Elizabeth,  niece  of  Anne  Boleyn,  and  grand- 
mother of  the  Queen*s  favourite,  the  Earl  of  Essex. 

9.  Lady  Elizabeth  Russell  (d.  1601),  a  handsome  sitting  figure 
of  alabaster,  in  an  attitude  of  sleep.  The  Latin  inscription  says, 
'she  sleeps,  she  is  not  dead\ 

10.  Lord  John  Russell  (d.  1584),  and  his  son  Francis ;  sarco- 
phagus with  a  recumbent  figure,  resting  on  the  left  arm,  in  official 
robes,  with  the  boy  at  the  feet. 

11.  Sir  Bernard  Brocas  of  Beaurepaire,  Chamberlain  to  Queen 
Anne,  wife  of  Richard  II.,  beheaded  on  Tower  Hill  in  1399;  an 
interesting  old  monument  in  the  form  of  a  Gothic  chapel,  with  re- 
cumbent figure  of  a  praying  knight;  at  the  feet,  a  lion.    • 

12.  Sir  Humphrey  Bourchier^  partisan  of  Edward  IV.,  who  fell 


238  19.  WESTMINSTER  ABfiEY.     fullest tkU, 

on  Easter  Day,  1471,  at  the  battle  of  Barnet  Field.  Altar  monament, 
with  the  flgnre  of  a  knight,  the  head  resting  on  a  helmet,  one  foot 
on  a  leopard,  and  the  other  on  an  eagle. 

13.  Sir  Richard  Pecksall  (d.  1571),  Master  of  the  Bnckhonnds 
to  Queen  Elizabeth ;  canopy  with  three  niches. 

•14.  Edward  Talbot,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury  (^d.  1617),  and  his  wife; 
figures  lying  under  a  canopy  on  a  slab  of  black  marble  with  a 
pedestal  of  alabaster. 

15.  William  de  Valence,  Earl  of  Pembroke,  whofellatBayonne 
in  1296 ;  recumbent  wooden  figure,  overlaid  with  metal,  the  feet 
resting  on  a  lion. 

16.  Robert  de  Waldeby,  Archbishop  of  York  (d.  1397),  once  an 
Augustinian  monk  and  the  companion  of  Edward  the  Black  Prince 
in  France,  tutor  to  Richard  II.  j  mediasval  monument,  with  en- 
grayed  figure. 

•17.  Eleanora  de  Bohun,  Ihichess  of  Olqucester,  Abbess  of  Bark- 
ing (d.  1399),  one  of  the  most  interesting  monuments  in  the  Abbey, 
with  a  fine  brass.  Her  husband  was  smothered  at  Calais  by  order 
of  Richard  II.,  his  nephew.  She  is  represented  in  the  dress  of  a 
nun  of  Barking.    The  inscription  is  in  old  French. 

18.  Mary,  Countess  of  Stafford  {d.  1693),  wife  of  Lord  Stafford, 
who  was  beheaded  on  Tower  Hill  in  1680. 

19.  Dr.  Feme,  Bishop  of  Chester,  Grand  Almoner  of  Charles  I. 
(d.  1661"). 

Edward  Bulwer  Lytton,  the  novelist  (d.  1873),  and  Lord  Her- 
bert of  Cherbury  (d.  1678)  are  buried  under  slabs  in  this  chapel. 
III.  Chapel  of  St.  Nicholas,  Bishop  of  Myra. 

1.  Lady  Cecil,  Lady  of  the  Bedchamber  to  Queen  Elizabeth 
(d.  1591). 

2.  Lady  Jane  Clifford,  daughterof  the  Duke  of  Somerset  (d.  1679). 

3.  Countess  of  Beverley ;  small  tombstone  with  the  inscription, 
'Esptfrauce  en  Dieu'  (d.  lol2),  by  NolUkcns, 

4.  Anne,  Duchess  of  Somerset  (d.  1 587), 
widow  of  the  Protector  (beheaded  on  Tower 
Hill  in  1552,  see  p.  132),  and  sister- 
in-law  of  Jane  Seymour,  third  wife  of 
Henry  VIH. ;  recumbent  figure. 

5.  Westmoreland  Family,  —  Above  — 

6.  Baron  Carew  (d.  1470)  and  his 
wife,  mediaeval  monument,  with  kneel- 
ing figures. 

7.  Nicholas  Bagenall  (d.  1687),  over- 
lain by  his  nurse  when  an  infant. 

•8.  Lady  Mildred  Burleigh  (d.  1588),  wife  of  Lord  Burleigh,  the 
famous  minister,  and  her  daughter  Anne.  Lady  Burleigh,  says  the 
epitaph,  was  well  versed  in  the  Greek  sacred  writers,  and  founded 
a  scholarship  at  St.  John's  College,  Oxford.    Recumbent  figures. 


ncWest^nd.     19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.  23& 

9.  WiUiamDudUy,  Bishop  of  Durham  (d.  1483). 

10.  Anna  Sophia  (d.  1601),  the  infant  daughter  of  Count  Bella- 
monte,  French  amhassador  at  the  court  of  James  I. 

11.  Lady  Roaa  (d.  1591);  mediayal  monument. 

12.  Marehionesa  of  Winchester  (il,ibS&), 

13.  Duchesa  of  Northumberland  (d.  1776),  by  Bead. 

14.  Philippa  de  Bohun,  Dueheaa  of  York  (d.  1431),  wife  of  Ed- 
ward Plantagenet,  who  fell  at  Agincourt  in  1415.  Old  monument 
with  effigy  of  the  deceased  in  long  drapery. 

•15.  Sir  George  ViUiers  (d.  1605)  and  his  wife  (d.  1632),  the 
parents  of  the  Duke  of  Buckingham,  fayourite  of  James  I. ;  mon- 
ument with  recumbent  figures ,  in  the  centre  of  the  chapel ,  by 
Stone,  —  The  remains  of  Katherine  of  Valoia,  wife  of  Henry  V. 
(d.  1437),  lay  below  this  tomb  for  350  years  (comp.  p.  243). 

16.  Sir  Humphrey  Stanley  (d.  1505). 

Opposite  us,  on  leaying  this  ohapel,  under  the  tomb  of  Henry  Y., 
is  a  bronze  bust  of  ^Sir  i2o&0rt  Atton,  the  poet  (1570-1638),  executed 
by  Farelli  from  a  portrait  by  Van  Dyck.  Alton  was  secretary  of  two 
Queens  Consort  and  a  friend  of  Jonson,  Drummond,  and  Hobbes.  The 
earliest  known  yersion   of  *Auld  Lang  Syne'  was  written  by  him. 

lY.  A  flight  of  twelye  black  marble  steps  now  leads  into  the 
♦♦Ohapbl  op  Hbnbt  YII.,  a  superb  structure  erected  in  1502-20 
on  the  site  of  an  old  chapel  of  the  Yirgin  Mary.  The  roses  in  the 
decoration  of  the  fine  brass-coyered  gates  are  an  allusion  to  the 
marriage  of  Henry  YII.,  founder  of  the  Tudor  family,  with  Eliza- 
beth, daughter  of  Edward  I Y.,  which  united  the  Houses  of  York 
and  Lancaster,  and  put  an  end  to  the  Wars  of  the  Roses  (comp. 
p.  154).  The  chapel  consists  of  naye  and  aisles,  with  flye  small 
chapels  at  the  E.  end.  The  aisles  are  entered  by  doors  on  the  right 
and  left  of  the  main  gate.  On  the  left  stands  the  font.  The  chapel 
contains  about  100  statues  and  figures.  On  each  side  are  caryed 
choir-stalls  in  dark  oak ,  admirably  designed  and  beautifully  exe- 
cuted ;  the  quaint  caryings  on  the  'misereres'  under  the  seats  are 
worthy  of  examination.  Each  stall  is  appropriated  to  a  Knight  of 
the  Order  of  the  Bath,  the  lower  seats  being  for  the  squires.  Each 
seat  bears  the  armorial  bearings  of  its  occupant  in  brass,  and  aboye 
each  are  a  sword  and  banner. 

The  chief  glory  of  this  chapel,  howeyer,  is  Its  fan-tracery  ceiling 
with  its  fantastic  pendentlyes,  each  surface  being  coyered  with  rich 
fret-work,  exhibiting  the  florid  Perpendicular  style  in  its  utmost 
luxuriance.  The  airiness,  elegance,  and  richness  of  this  exquisite 
work  can  scarcely  be  oyer-praised.  The  best  suryey  of  the  chapel 
is  gained  either  from  the  entrance-door,  or  from  the  small  chapel 
at  the  opposite  extremity,  behind  the  monument  of  the  founder, 
whose  portrait  is  to  be  seen  in  the  stained-glass  window  aboye. 

^On  entering,  the  eye  is  astonished  by  the  pomp  of  architecture,  and 
the  elaborate  beauty  of  scnlptnred  detail.  The  very  walls  are  wrought 
into  aniyersal  ornament,  incmsted  with  tracery,  and  scooped  into  niches, 


240  19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.     TheWestEnd. 

crowded  with  the  statues  of  saints  and  martyrs.  Stone  seems,  by  the 
canning  labour  of  the  chisel,  to  have  been  robbed  of  its  tv^eight  and  density, 
suspended  aloft,  as  if  by  magic,  and  the  fretted  roof  achieved  with  the 
wonderfal  minuteness  and  airy  security  of  a  cobweb."  —  Washington  Irving. 

We  first  turn  our  attention  to  the  S.  aisle  of  the  chapel,  where 
we  observe  the  following  monnments  (comp.  Plan,  p.  226) : 

*a.  Lady  Margaret  Douglas  (d.l577),  daughter  of  Margaret,  Qneen 
of  Scotland,  great-granddaughter  of  Edward  lY.,  granddaughter  of 
Henry  VII.,  niece  of  Henry  VIII.,  cousin  of  Edward  VI.,  sister 
of  James  V.  of  Scotland,  mother  of  Henry  I.  of  Scotland  (Lord 
Darnley),  and  grandmother  of  James  VI.  Her  seven  children  kneel 
round  the  sarcophagus;  the  eighth  figure  is  her  grandson.  King 
James. 

b.  Afary,  Queen  of  Scots^  beheaded  in  1587,  an  inartistic  monu- 
ment by  Cuftf,  representing  a  recumbent  figure  under  a  canopy,  In 
a  praying  attitude.  The  remains  of  the  Queen  are  buried  in  a  vault 
below  the  monument.  Adjacent,  on  the  wall,  hangs  a  photographic 
copy  of  the  warrant  issued  by  James  I.  in  1612  for  the  removal  of 
his  mother's  body  from  Peterborough  Cathedral  to  Westminster 
Abbey. 

G.  Margaret  J  Countess  of  Richmond^  mother  of  Henry  VII.  (d. 
1509) ;  recumbent  metal  effigy,  by  Torrigiano.  The  bronze  relief- 
portrait  of  Sir  Thomas  Lovell  (d.  1524),  on  the  wall,  is  also  by 
Torrigiano, 

d.  Lady  Walpole  (d.  1737),  first  wife  of  Sir  Robert  Walpole, 
executed  by  Valori  after  the  ancient  statue  of  Pudicitia  (so-called) 
in  the  Vatican,  Rome,  and  brought  from  Italy  by  her  son,  Horace 
Walpole. 

e.  Qeorge  Monk  or  Monck,  Duke  of  Albemarle  (d.  1670),  the 
restorer  of  the  Stuarts,  by  Scheemakers.  Rostral  column,  with  lifesize 
figure  of  the  Duke.  In  Monk's  vault,  which  is  in  the  N.  aisle,  are 
also  buried  Addison  (d.  1719 ;  p.  234)  and  Secretary  Craggs  (d.  1721). 

In  the  vault  in  front  of  it  are  buried  Charles  IL,  William  III, 
and  Queen  Mary,  his  wife,  and  Queen  Anne  and  her  consort,  Prince 
Qeorge  of  Denmark. 

We  now  enter  the  nave,  which  contains  the  following  monu- 
ments (beginning  from  the  chapel  on  the  left) :  — 

f.  Qeorge  ViUiers,  Duke  of  Buckingham,  the  favourite  of  James  I. 
and  Charles  I.,  murdered  in  1628  by  the  fanatic  Felton,  and  his 
consort.  The  monument  is  of  iron.  At  the  feet  of  the  recumbent 
effigies  of  the  deceased  is  Fame  blowing  a  trumpet.  At  the  front 
corners  of  the  sarcophagus  are  Neptune  and  Mars,  at  those  at  the 
back  two  mourning  females,  all  in  a  sitting  posture.  At  the  top, 
on  their  knees,  are  the  lifesize  children  of  the  deceased. 

g.  John  Sheffield,  Duke  of  Buckinghamshire  (d.  1721),  and  his 
wife,  by  Seheerruikers.  The  figure  of  the  Duke  is  half-recumbent, 
and  in  Roman  costume.  At  his  feet  is  the  duchess,  weeping.  Above 


TheWestEnd,     19.   WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.  241 

is  Time  with  the  medalliona.  Anne  of  Denmark  (d.  1618),  contort 
of  James  I.,  is  interred  in  front  of  this  monument. 

In  the  E.  chapel  were  interred  Oliver  Cromwell  and  some  of 
his  followers,  removed  in  1661  (comp.  p.  223).  —  In  this  chapel  is 
the  new  Coronation  Chair,  made  in  1689  for  Qneen  Mary,  wife  of 
William  III.,  on  the  model  of  the  old  one  (p.  243),  and  last  used 
hy  Queen  Alexandra  in  1902. 

•k.  Duke  ofMontpenBUr  (d.  1807),  hrother  of  King  Louis  Phil- 
ippe, recumbent  figure  in  white  marble,  by  Weatmaeott.  —  Dean 
Stanley  (d.  1881 ;  recumbent  statue  by  Boehrn)j  and  his  wife.  Lady 
Augutta  Stanley  (d.  1876),  are  buried  in  this  chapel. 

1.  EsnU  Stuart  J  who  died  in  1661,  in  his  eleventh  year;  pyr- 
amid with  an  urn  containing  the  heart  of  the  deceased. 

k.  Lewis  Stuart,  Duke  of  Richmond  (d.  1623),  father's  cousin  and 
friend  of  James  I.,  and  his  wife.  Double  sarcophagus  with  re- 
cumbent figures.  The  iron  canopy  is  borne  by  figures  of  Faith, 
Hope,  Charity,  and  Wisdom.   Above  is  a  fine  figure  of  Fame. 

In  the  centre  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  chapel :  — 

•Henry  VII,  (d.  1509)  and  his  wife  Elixabeth  of  York  (d.  1502) ; 
metal  monument,  by  the  Florentine  sculptor  Pietro  Torrigiano,  the 
artist's  masterpiece  (1519).  It  is  enclosed  by  a  tasteful  chantry  of 
brass.  On  the  double  sarcophagus  are  the  recumbent  figures  of  the 
royal  pair  in  their  robes.  The  compartments  at  the  sides  of  the 
tomb  are  embellished  with  sacred  representations.  —  James  I, 
(d.  1625)  is  buried  in  the  same  vault  as  Henry  VII. 

George  II,  and  a  number  of  members  of  the  royal  family  are 
interred ,  without  monuments ,  in  front  of  the  tomb  of  Henry  VII. 
Also  Edward  VI,  (d.  1553),  whose  monument  by  Torrigiano  was 
destroyed  by  the  Republicans  and  is  replaced  by  a  modern  Renais- 
sance altar.  The  marble  frieze  and  two  of  the  columns,  however, 
belong  to  the  original.  To  the  left  is  the  tomb  of  Elizabeth  Claypole 
(d.  1658),  second  daughter  of  Oliver  Cromwell,  marked  by  an  in- 
scription in  the  pavement. 

The  monuments  in  the  northern  aisle  of  this  chapel  are  not  less 
interesting  than  those  in  the  southern. 

♦l.  Queen  Elisabeth  (d.  1603),  by  Powtrain  and  De  Critt,  Here 
also  is  commemorated  Elizabeth's  sister  and  predecessor  Mary 
(d.  1568),  who  is  buried  beneath. 

m.  Sophia,  daughter  of  James  I.,  who  was  bom  in  1607,  and 
died  when  three  days  old.   Small  recumbent  figure  in  a  cradle. 

n.  Edward  V.  and  his  brother,  the  Duke  of  York,  the  sons  of 
Edward  IV.,  murdered  in  the  Tower  when  children,  by  Richard  III., 
in  1483.  Some  bones,  supposed  to  be  those  of  the  unfortunate  boys, 
were  found  in  a  chest  below  a  staircase  in  the  Tower  (see  p.  137), 
and  brought  hither.    Small  sarcophagus  in  a  niche. 

o.  Mary,  daughter  of  James  I.,  who  died  in  1607  at  the  age  of 
two  years.    Small  altar-tomb. 

Baedshk^s  London.    15th  Edit.  16 


242  19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.     The  West  End. 

p.  Charles  Montagu^  Earl  of  Halifax,  Lord  High  Treasurer 
(d.  1716).  —  The  earl  wag  the  patron  of  Addison  (p.  240),  who  is 
commemorated  hy  a  slah  in  front  of  this  monument. 

q.  Oeorge  Saville,  Marquis  of  Halifax,  Lord  Keeper  of  the  Privy 
Seal  during  several  reigns  (d.  1695). 

After  quitting  the  Chapel  of  Henry  Yll.  and  descending  the 
steps,  we  see  in  front  of  us  the  Chantry  of  Henry  F.  (p.  243),  with 
its  finely  sculptured  arch,  over  which  is  represented  the  coronation 
of  that  monarch  (1413).  A  slab  on  the  floor  marks  the  vault  of 
the  Blarls  of  Clarendon,  including  the  distinguished  historian 
(d.  1674). 

V.  Chapel  op  St.  Paul. 

1.  Sir  Rowland  Hill  [il^b'i%l%\  the  originator  of  the  system 
of  penny  postage ;  bust  by  Keyworth. 

2.  Sir  Henry  Belasyse  (d.  1717),  Lieutenant-General  and  Gov- 
ernor of  Gal  way.    Pyramid  by  Scheemakers, 

3.  Sir  John  Puckering  (d.  1596),  Keeper  of  the  Great  Seal  under 
Queen  Elizabeth,  and  his  wife.  Recumbent  figures  under  a  canopy. 

4.  Sir  James  Fullerton  (d.  1630),  First  Gentleman  of  the  Bed- 
chamber to  Charles  I.,  and  his  wife.  Recumbent  marble  figures. 

5.  Sir  Thomas  Bromley  (d.  1587),  Lord  Chancellor  under  Queen 
Elizabeth.    Recumbent  figure ;  below,  his  eight  children. 

6.  Sir  Dudley  Carleton  (d.  1631),  diplomatist  under  James  I. ; 
semi-recumbent  figure,  by  Stone. 

7.  Countess  of  Sussex  (d.  1589) ;  at  her  feet  is  a  porcupine. 
8.   Lord  Cottington,  statesman  in  the 

reign  of  Charles  I.  (d.  1652),  and  his 
wife.  Handsome  black  marble  monu- 
ment, with  the  recumbent  figure  of  Lord 
Cottington  in  white  marble,  by  Fanelliy 
and,  at  the  top,  a  bust  of  Lady  Cotting- 
ton (d.  1633),  by  Le  Soeur, 

*9.  James  Watt  (d.  1819),  the  Im- 
prover of  the  steam-engine;  colossal 
figure  in  a  sitting  posture,  by  Chantrey, 
*10.  Sir  Giles  Daubeney  (d.  1507), 
Lord-Lieutenant  of  Calais  under  Henry  VII.,  and  his  wife.  Re- 
cumbent effigies  in  alabaster,  painted. 

11.  Lewis  Rohsari  (d.  1431),  standard-bearer  of  Henry  V. ;  an 
interesting  old  monument,  without  an  effigy. 

This  chapel  contains  an  ancient  stone  coffin  found  in  digging 
the  grave  of  Sir  Rowland  Hill  (see  above). 

To  the  right,  on  leaving  the  chapel,  is  a  monument  to  William 
PuUeney,  Earl  of  Bath  (d.  1764),  by  Wilton;  and  beside  it  another 
to  Rear- Admiral  Charles  Holmes  (d.  1761),  also  by  Wilton,  Op- 
posite is  a  screen  of  wrought  iron  executed  by  an  English  black- 
smith in  1293. 


The  West  End,     19.   WESTMINSTER  ABBEY. 


243 


•VI.  Chapbl  op  St.  Edwabd  the  Confbssob,  formlDg  the 
end  of  the  choir,  to  which  we  ascend  hy  a  small  flight  of  narrow 
steps.  (The  following  chapel,  No.  YII,  is  sometimes  shown  be- 
fore this.) 

♦1.  Henry  III.  (d.  1272),  a  rich  and  artistic  monument  of  por- 
phyry and  mosaic,  with  recumbent  bronze  efflgy  of  the  king,  by 
William  Torel  (1290). 

*2.  QueenEleanor  (d.  1290),  first  wife  of  Edwardl.,  by  Torel.  The 
inscription  is  in  qnaint  old  French:  —  *Ici  gist  Alianor,  jadisReyne 
de  Engletere,  femme  al  Rey  Edeward,  Fiz  le  Rey  Henri  e  fylle  al 
Rey  de  Espagne  e  Gontasse  de  Panti£F  del  alme  dl  U  Dien  pur  sa 
pite  eyt  mercl'.   Recnmbent  metal  efflgy. 

3.  Chantry  of  Henry  V,  (d.  1422).  On  each  side  a  lifesize 
flgnre  keeps  gnard  by  the  steps.  The  recumbent  efflgy  of  the  king 
wants  the  head ,  which  was  of  solid  siWer,  and  was  stolen  during 
the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  In  1878  the  remains  of  Katherine  of 
Valois  (d.  1437),  queen  of  Henry  V.  (the  'beautiful  Kate'  of  Shak- 
speare's  *IIeiiry  V.*)  were  re-interred  In  this  chantry,  whence 
they  had  been  removed  on  the  building  of  Henry  VII. 's  Chapel. 
On  the  bar  above  this  monument  are  placed  the  saddle,  helmet, 
and  shield  said  to  have  been  used  by  Henry  V.  at  the  battle  of 
Agin  court. 

4.  Philippa  (d.  1369),  wife  of  Edward  III.,  and  mother  of  twelve 
children.  She  was  the  daughter  of  the  Count  of  Hainault  and  Holland, 
and  was  related  to  no  fewer  than 

thirty  crowned  heads,  statuettes  of 
whom  were  formerly  to  be  seen 
grouped  round  the  sarcophagus. 

5.  Edward  III.  (d.  1377),  re- 
cumbent metal  figure  on  a  sarco- 
phagus of  grey  marble.  This  mon- 
ument was  once  surrounded  by 
statuettes  of  the  king's  children 
and  others.  The  pavement  in  front 
of  it  dates  from  1260. 

6.  Margaret  Woodville(d.U72'), 
a  daughter  of  Edward  IV.,  who 
died  in  infancy.  Monument  without 
an  effigy. 

7.  Richard  II.  ^  murdered  on  St.  Valentine's  Day,  1399,  and  his 
queen.  The  wooden  canopy  bears  an  old  and  curious  representation 
of  the  Saviour  and  the  Virgin. 

8.  The  old  Coronation  Chair j  of  oak,  made  for  Edward  I.,  was 
last  used  by  Edward  VII.  in  1902.  Under  the  seat  is  the  fam- 
ous Stone  of  Scone,  the  emblem  of  the  power  of  the  Scottish 
Princes,  and  traditionally  said  to  be  that  once  used  by  the  patriarch 
Jacob  as  a  pillow.   It  is  a  piece  of  sandstone  from  the  W.  coast  of 

16* 


244  19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.     TheWestEnd. 

Scotland,  and  may  very  probably  be  the  actual  etone  pillow  on-wMch 
the  dying  head  of  St.  Columha  rested  in  the  Abbey  of  lona.  This 
stone  was  brought  to  London  by  Edward  I.  in  1297,  in  token  of  the 
complete  subjugation  of  Scotland.  Eyery  English  monarch  since  that 
date  has  been  crowned  In  this  chair.  On  the  coronation  day  the 
chair  is  eoTered  with  gold  brocade  and  taken  into  the  choir  of  the 
Abbey,  on  the  other  side  of  the  partition  in  front  of  which  it 
now  stands.  Beside  the  chair  are  the  state  sword  and  shield  of 
Edward  III.  (d.  1377). 

The  reliefs  on  the  screen  separating  Edward's  chapel  from  the 
choir,  executed  in  the  reign  of  EdwardlV.,  represent  the  principal 
events  in  the  life  of  the  Confessor. 

10.  Edward  I.  (d.  1307),  a  simple  slab  without  an  efflgy.  The 
inscription  is :  —  *Eduardus  primus,  Scottorum  malleus,  hie  est' 
(here  lies  Edward  I.,  the  hammer  of  the  Scots).  The  body  was 
recently  found  to  be  in  remarkably  good  preservation,  with  a 
crown  of  gilded  tin  on  the  head,  and  a  copper  gilt  sceptre  in  the 
hand. 

*11.  Edward  the  Corifessor  (d.  1066),  a  large  mediaeval  shrine, 
the  faded  splendour  of  which  is  still  traceable,  in  spite  of  the 
spoliations  of  relic-hunters.  The  shrine  was  erected  by  order  of 
Henry  III.  in  1269,  and  cost,  according  to  an  authentic  record, 
255i.  4«.  8d.  A  few  devout  pilgrims  still  visit  this  shrine  on  St. 
Edward's  Day  (Oct.  13th).  The  elaborate  pall  above  this  shrine  was 
placed  there  at  the  coronation  of  Edward  VII.  in  1902. 

12.  Thomas  of  Woodstock^  Duke  of  Qloueestery  murdered  at 
Calais  in  1397. 

13.  Johrh  ofWaltham(d..  1395),  Bishop  of  Salisbury,  recumbent 
metal  efflgy. 

Opposite  the  Chapel  of  Edward  the  Confessor  is  the  entrance 
to  the  Chapel  or  Shrine  of  8t.  Erasmus,  a  picturesque  archway, 
borne  by  clustered  columns,  dating  from  about  1484.  Passing 
through  this  chapel,  we  enter  the  — 

VII.    Chapel  op  St.  John  the  Baptist. 
1.  Sir  Thomas   Vaughan  (d.   1483),  Lord  High  Treasurer  of 
Edward  IV.  Old  monument,  with  a  brass, 
which  is  much  defaced. 

2.  Colonel  Edward  Popham  (d.  1651), 
officer  in  Cromwell's  army,  and  his  wife. 
Upright  figures. 

3.  Thomas  Carey,  son  of  the  Earl  of 
Monmouth,  Gentleman  of  the  Bedchamber 
to  Charles  I. ,  who  died  in  1648,  aged 
33  years,  from  grief  at  the  misfortunes  of 
his  royal  master. 

4.  Hugh  de  Bohun  and  his  sister  Mary  (d.  1300),  grandchildren 
of  Edward  I. ;  tombstone  of  grey  marble. 


fheWestEnd,     19.  W:fiSTMlNSTER  ABBEY.  245 

5.  Henry  Carey,  Baron  Hunadon,  cousin  of  Qaeen  Elizabeth 
(d.  1596).   Rich  canopy  without  an  effigy. 

6.  Countess  of  Mexborough  (d.  1821),  small  altar-tomb. 

7.  William  of  Colchester,  Abbot  of  Westminster  (d.  1420) ;  a 
medisBYal  stone  monument  with  the  recumbent  figure  of  the  pre- 
late,  his  head  supported  by  angels,  and  his  feet  resting  on  a  lamb. 
Above  this  monument  is  a  slab  with  a  mourning  Genius  by  Nol- 
lekensj  erected  to  the  memory  of  Lieut,  Col,  MacLeod,  who  fell  at 
the  siege  of  Badajoz,  at  the  age  of  26. 

8.  Thomas  Ruthall,  Bishop  of  Durham  under  Henry  YIII.,  who 
died  In  1524,  leaving  great  wealth.   MedlsBval  recumbent  figure. 

9.  Thomas  MiUyng,  Abbot  of  Westminster  (d.  1492) ;  canopy 
without  a  figure. 

10.  O,  Fascet,  Abbot  of  Westminster  (d.  1500). 

A  slab  in  front  of  this  tomb,  with  an  inscription  by  Dean  Stan- 
ley, marks  the  resting-place  of  the  third  Earl  of  Essex  (d,  1646), 
the  only  prominent  Parliamentarian  in  the  Abbey  not  disinterred 
at  the  Restoration. 

11.  Mary  Kendall  (d.  1710) ;  kneeling  female  figure. 

12.  Thomas  Cecil,  Earl  of  Exeter  (d.  1622),  Privy  Councillor 
under  James  I.,  and  his  wife.  His  wife  lies  on  his  right  hand ; 
the  space  on  his  left  was  destined  for  his  second  wife,  who,  however, 
declined  to  accept  the  inferior  place  of  honour. 

YIII.  The  small  Chapel  op  Abbot  Islip  exhibits  the  rebus  of  its 
founder,  'I  slip*,  in  several  parts  of  the  carving.  The  tomb  of  Abbot 
Islip  (d.  1632),  destroyed  by  the  Roundheads ,  is  now  represented 
by  a  kind  of  table  by  the  window.  The  chapel  also  contains  the 
tomb  of  Sir  Christopher  Hatton(d.,  1619),  nephew  of  the  famous  Lord 
Chancellor,  and  his  wife.  —  A  room  above  this  chapel  (adm.  see 
p.  225)  contains  the  remains  of  the  curious  Wax  Effigies  which 
were  once  used  at  the  funerals  of  persons  buried  in  the  Abbey 
(comp.  p.  248).  Among  them  are  Queen  Elizabeth  (restored  in 
1760),  Charles  II.,  William  III.  and  his  wife  Mary,  Queen  Anne, 
General  Monk,  the  Duchess  of  Buckinghamshire,  the  Duchess  of 
Richmond  (comp.  p.  407),  William  Pitt,  Earl  of  Chatham,  and 
Lord  Nelson.    The  last-mentioned  two  are  not  funeral  figures. 

In  the  ambulatory,  near  the  chapel  of  Edward  the  Confessor,  is 
the  ancient  monument  of  the  Knight  Templar,  Edmund  Crouchback 
(d.  1296),  second  son  of  Henry  III.,  from  whom  the  House  of  Lan- 
caster derived  its  claims  to  the  English  throne.  On  the  sarcophagus 
are  remains  of  the  figures  of  the  ten  knights  who  accompanied 
Edmund  to  the  Holy  Land.  Adjacent  is  the  monument  of  another 
Knight  Templar,  Aymer  de  Valence  (d.  1323),  Earl  of  Pembroke 
and  cousin  of  Edward  I.,  who  was  assassinated  in  France.  The 
beautiful  effigy  of  Aveline,  Countess  of  Lancaster  (d.  1273),  first 
wife  of  Edmund  Crouchback,  on  an  adjoining  monument  (seen 
from  the  choir),  merits  notice. 


246 


19.  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.     TheWestEnd, 


To  tlie  right  is  a  large  marble  monument,  executed  by  Wilton, 
to  General  Wolfe  (buried  in  St.  Alphage's,  Greenwich),  who  fell  in 
1759  at  the  capture  of  Quebec.  He  is  represented  sinking  into  the 
arms  of  a  grenadier,  while  his  right  hand  is  pressed  on  his  mortal 
wonnd;  the  soldier  is  pointing  ont  to  the  hero  the  Goddess  of 
Fame  hovering  overhead.  In  the  background  is  a  mourning  High- 
lander. 

Opposite  is  the  monument  of  John^  Earl  Ligonier  and  Viscount 
of  Inniskilling,  Field-Marshal  (d.  1770),  by  Moore. 

IX.  Chapels  of  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  St.  Michael,  and 
St.  Andrew,  three  separate  chapels,  now  combined. 

1.  Sir  John  Franklin  (d.  1847),  lost  in  endeavouring  to  dis- 
cover the  North  West  Passage,  by  Noble.  Inscription  by  Tennyson. 

2.  Earl  of  Mountralh  (d.  1771),  and  his  wife ;  by  Wilton.  An 
angel  points  out  to  the  Countess  the  empty  seat  beside  her  husband. 

3.  Earl  of  Kerry  (d.  1818),  and  his  wife;  a  marble  sarcophagus 
with  an  earl's  coronet,  by  Buckham.   Altar-tomb. 

4.  Telford,  the  engineer  (d.  1834) ;  huge  statue  by  Baily. 

5.  John  Kemble  (d.  1823),  the  actor,  in  the  character  of  Cato; 
statue  by  Flaxman, 

6.  Dr,  Baillie  (d.  1823);  bust  by  Chantrey. 

7.  (above)  Susannah  Davidson,  daughter  of  a  rich  merchant  of 
Rotterdam  (d.  1767),  by  Hay  ward.    Altar- tomb  with  head. 

8.  Mrs.  Siddons,  the  famous  actress  (d. 
1831);  statue  by  Chantrey,  after  Reynolds's 
picture  of  her  as  the  Tragic  Muse. 

9.  Sir  James  Simpson  (d.  1870),  the 
discoverer  of  the  value  of  chloroform  as  an 
ansBsthetic ;  bust  by  Brodie. 

*10.  Lord  Norris  (d.  1601),  son  of  Sir 
Henry  Norris  who  was  executed  with  the  ill- 
fated  Anne  Boleyn,  with  his  wife,  and  six 
sons.  The  recumbent  figures  of  Lord  and 
Lady  Norris  are  under  a  catafalque ;  at  the 
sides  are  the  lifesize  kneeling  figures  of  the 
sons.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  canopy  is  a 
relief  of  warlike  scenes  from  the  life  of  the 
deceased  nobleman.  At  the  top  is  a  small 
Goddess  of  Fame. 

11.  Mrs.  Kirton  (d.  1603);  tablet  with 
inscription,  sprinkled  with  tears  represent- 
ed as  flowing  from  an  eye  at  the  top. 
12.  Sarah,  Duchess  of  Somerset  (d.  1692).     The  Duchess  is 
represented  leaning  on  her  arm,  looking  towards  the  angels,  who 
are  appearing  to  her  in  the  clouds.    At  the  sides  are  two  poor  boys 
bewailing  the  death  of  their  benefactress. 

•13.  J.  Oascoigne  Nightingale  (d.  1752),  and  his  wife  (d.  1731)  ; 


TheWestEnd,     19.   WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.  247 

group  hy  Rouhiliae.  Death,  emerging  from  a  tomb,  ia  launching  his 
dart  at  the  dying  lady,  while  her  husband  tries  toward  off  the  attack. 

14.  Lady  8t.  John  (d.  1614),  with  an  effigy. 

16.  Admiral  Pocoek  (d.  1793);  sitting  figure  of  Victory  with 
medallion,  by  Bacon. 

16.5tr(?.HoMM(d.l626),  nephew  of  Sir  Francis  Vere,  hyStone. 

♦17.  Sir  Francis  Vere  (d.  1608),  officer  in  the  service  of  Queen 
Elizabeth.  Four  kneeling  warriors  in  armour  support  a  black  marble 
slab,  on  which  lies  the  armour  of  the  deceased. 

This  chapel  also  contains  tablets  or  busts  in  memory  of  Ad^ 
miral  Kempenfelt^  who  was  drowned  with  900  sailors  by  the  sink- 
ing of  the  'Royal  George'  in  1782  (commemorated  in  Cowper's 
well-known  lines);  Sir  Humphry  Davy  (d.  1829),  the  natural 
philosopher;  the  learned  Dr,  Young  (d.  1829),  and  others. 

A  door  in  the  S.  Aisle,  adjacent  to  the  angle  of  the  Poets'  Corner, 
leads  from  the  abbey  to  the  beautiful  Cloisters,  dating  in  their 
present  form  from  the  13-16th  cent.,  though  they  include  work  of  as 
early  as  the  11th  century.  The  cloisters  may  be  entered  also  by  a 
passage  in  the  N.E.  corner  of  Dean's  Yard  (p.  248).  They  contain 
the  tombs  of  numerous  early  ecclesiastics  connected  with  the  abbey, 
and  many  other  graves,  including  those  of  Betterton,  the  actor  (d. 
1710),  Mrs.  Braeegirdle,  the  actress  (d.  1748),  Aphra  Behn,  the 
novelist  (d.  1689),  Sir  Edmond  Godfrey  (murdered  1678),  Dr.Bu- 
cftan,  author  of  'Domestic  Medicine'  (d.  1805),  Samuel  Foote 
(d.  1777;  no  inscription),  etc.  One  slab  is  inscribed  'Jane  Lister, 
dear  childe,  1688'.  A  tablet  commemorates  members  of  the  Queen's 
Westminster  Volunteers  who  died  in  South  Africa  in  1900  while 
serving  in  the  City  of  London  Imperial  Volunteers  (C.  I.V.). 

From  the  E.  walk  of  the  cloisters  we  enter  the  •Chapter  House, 
the  'cradle  of  all  free  parliaments',  an  octagonal  room  with  a  central 
pillar,  built  in  1250,  and  from  1282  to  1547  used  for  the  meetings 
of  the  House  of  Commons,  which  Edward  VI. ,  in  the  latter  year, 
appointed  to  take  place  in  St.  Stephen's  Chapel,  Westminster  Palace. 
The  Chapter  House  was  afterwards  used  as  a  receptacle  for  public 
records,  now  removed  to  the  New  Record  Office  (p.  150). 

In  tbe  vestibule,  to  the  left,  is  a  Roman  sarcophagns.  A  stained* 
glaas  window,  on  the  right,  commemorates  Jamet  Russell  Lowell^  poet  and 
essayist  (d.  1891).  —  On  the  wall  of  the  Chapter  House  are  remains  of  a 
mural  painting  of  Christ  surrounded  by  the  Christian  virtues.  The  old 
tiled  pavement  is  well  executed.  The  Chapter  House,  which  has  recently 
been  ably  restored,  contains  a  glass-case  with  fragments  of  sculpture,  coins, 
keys,  etc.,  found  in  the  neighbourhood;  two  others  with  ancient  docu- 
ments relating  to  the  Abbey,  including  the  Great  Charter  of  Edward  the 
Confessor  (1066) ;  and  a  fourth  with  a  large  illuminated  missal  and  im- 
pressions of  royal  seals.  The  stained-glass  windows  were  erected  in  memory 
of  Dean  Stanley  :  the  E.  window  by  Queen  Victoria,  that  adjoining  on  the 
S.  by  American  admirers,  and  the  rest  by  public  subscription. 

Almost  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Chapter  House  is  a  stair- 
case ascending  to  the  Muniment  Room,  or  Archives  of  the  Abbey, 
and  to  the  Triforium,  which  affords  a  fine  survey  of  the  interior. 


248  19.  WESTMINSTER  SCHOOL.     The  West  End. 

Adjoining  the  Chapter  House  ia  the  Chamber  of  the  Pyx  (about  to  be 
opened  to  the  public),  which  was  once  the  Trecuury  of  the  Kinge  of  Eng- 
land. Tbe  pyx  (i'.0.  the  box  in  which  the  standards  of  gold  and  silver 
are  kept)  ban  been  removed  to  the  Hint  (p.  139).  This  chamber  has  a 
stone  door  lined  with  human  skin  and  secured  with  seven  locks.  \i 
contains  the  only  original  stone  altar  in  the  Abbey.  —  Farther  on  two  bays 
of  the  Crjfpt  beneath  the  monks'  dormitory  are  about  to  be  opened  as  a 
museum  of  objects  connected  with  the  Abbey.  The  Wax  £f6g{es  (p.  245) 
will  probably  be  removed  hither.  The  next  short  passage,  on  the  left, 
leads  to  the  picturesque  Little  Cloitters. 

In  the  JeruaaUm  Chamber,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Abbey  (shown 
on  application  at  the  porter's  lodge),  are  frescoes  of  the  Death  of 
Henry  IV.  and  the  Coronation  of  Queen  Victoria,  some  stained  glass 
ascribed  to  the  reign  of  Henry  III.,  and  busts  of  Henrys  IV.  and  V. 
It  dates  from  1376-86,  and  was  the  scene  of  the  death  of  Henry  IV. 
King  Henry.    Doth  any  name  particular  belong 

Unto  the  lodging  where  I  first  did  swoon? 
Warwick.         ^Tis  called  Jerusalem,  my  noble  Lord. 
King.  Laud  be  to  God !  even  there  my  life  must  end. 

It  hath  been  prophesied  to  me  many  years, 
I  should  not  die  but  in  Jerusalem; 
Which  vainly  I  supposed  the  Holy  Land:  — 
But  bear  me  to  that  chamber;  there  Til  lie 
In  that  Jerusalem  shall  Harry  die. 

Shaktpeare^  King  Henry  IV.,  Part  II;  Act  iv.  8c.  4. 

It  probably  derived  its  name  from  tapestries  or  pictures  of  the 
history  of  Jerusalem  with  which  it  was  hung.  —  The  adjoining 
Abbot* 8  Refectory  or  College  Hall,  where  the  Westminster  college 
boys  dine,  contains  some  ancient  tapestry  and  stained  glass. 

To  theW.  of  Westminster  Abbey  rises  the  Westminster  Column, 
a  red  granite  monument  60  ft.  high,  designed  by  <Sftr  Oilbert  Scott,  and 
erected  in  1854-59  to  former  scholars  of  Westminster  School  who 
fell  in  the  Crimea  or  the  Indian  Mutiny.  At  the  base  of  the  column 
couch  four  lions.  Above  are  the  statues  of  Edward  the  Confessor 
and  Henry  III.  (chief  builders  of  Westminster  Abbey),  Queen  Eli- 
zabeth (founder  of  Westminster  School),  and  Queen  Victoria.  The  col- 
umn is  surmounted  by  a  group  of  St.  George  and  the  Dragon.  It  is.on 
or  near  the  site  of  Caxton's  house  (the  *Red  Pale'),  in  the  Almonry, 
which  Sir  Walter  Besant  locates  on  or  behind  the  spot  now  occupied 
by  the  Westminster  Palace  Hotel  (p.  5)  opposite. 

An  archway,  passing  under  the  new  house  to  the  S.  of  the  column, 
leads  to  the  Dean's  Yard  and  Westminster  School,  or  8t.  Peter's 
College  (PI.  R,  25;  IV),  re-founded  by  Queen  Elizabeth  in  1560. 
The  school  consists  of  60  Foundationers,  called  King's  Scholars, 
and  about  200  Oppidans  or  Town  Boys,  Among  the  celebrated  men 
educated  here  wereDryden,  Locke,  Ben  Jonson,Cartwright,Bentham, 
Barrow,  Home  Tooke,  Cowley,  Rowe,  Prior,  Giles  Fletcher,  Churchill, 
Cowper,  Southey,  Hakluyt  the  geographer.  Sir  Chris.  Wren,  Warren 
Hastings,  Gibbon,  George  Herbert,  Vincent  Bourne,  Dyer,  Toplady, 
Charles  Wesley,  George  Coleman,  Dean  Aldrich  (logician  and  musi- 
cian), Elmsley  the  scholar,  Lord  Raglan,  J.  A.  Froude,  and  Earl  Rub- 


TheWeatEnd.     19.  WESTMINSTER  HOSPITAL.  249 

sell.  Nicholas  Udall,  author  of  'Roister  Doister^jwas  appointed  Head 
Master  about  1556,  and  Dr.  Richard  Busby  (p.  236)  held  the  same 
office  here  from  1638  to  1695.  A  comedy  of  Terence  or  Plautus  is 
annually  performed  at  Christmas  in  the  dormitory  of  the  Queen's 
Scholars  by  the  Westminster  boys,  with  a  prologue  and  epilogue 
alluding  to  current  events.  The  old  dormitory  of  the  Abbey  is  now 
ased  as  the  great  school-room,  while  the  school-library  and  class- 
rooms occupy  the  site  of  the  medisval  Miserlcorde,  of  which  con- 
siderable remains  are  still  traceable.  The  old  tables  in  the  dining- 
hall  are  said  to  be  made  from  the  timbers  of  the  Armada.  The 
staircase  of  Ashbumham  House  (included  iu  the  school-buildings) 
and  the  school-gateway  are  by  luigo  Jones. 

On  the  S.  side  of  Dean's  Yard  is  the  Church  House  (P1.R,25; 
lV)y  the  ecclesiastical  memorial  of  Queen  Victoria's  Jubilee.  The 
only  parts  now  ready  are  the  Great  Hall ,  at  the  back,  opened  in 
1896,  and  the  W.  block,  containing  the  Hoart Memorial  Hall^  opened 
in  1902.  The  architect  was  the  late  Sir  Arthur  W,  Blomficld;  the 
material  is  red  brick,  and  the  style  late-Perpendicular  (Tudor).  The 
hall  has  a  line  oaken  roof.  The  Church  House  is  intended  to  be  the 
business-centre  of  the  Church  of  England.  Both  Houses  of  Convo- 
cation meet  here,  and  it  also  accommodates  many  of  the  Church 
Societies.  Adm.  10-12  and  2-4,  Sat.  10-12. 

The  Royca  Architectural  Muteuniy  Xo.  18  Tufton  Street  (adm.  daily  10-4, 
Sat.  10-6,  free),  to  the  8.  of  Dean's  Yard  (whence  a  passage  leads;,  con- 
tains Goihic,  Renaissance,  and  Classic  carvings  (oiainly  casts). 

The  open  space  to  the  N.  and  W.  of  the  Abbey  is  the  Broad 
Sanctuabt,  formerly  a  sacred  place  of  refuge  for  criminals  and 
political  offenders.  Edward  Y.  was  bom  in  the  Sanctuary  in  1470 
and  his  mother  and  brother  again  took  refuge  here  in  1483.  The 
poet  Skelton  (d.  1529)  also  sought  shelter  here  from  Cardinal  Wol- 
sey's  Tengeance. 

Westminiter  Hospital  (PI.  R,  25 ;  IV),  on  the  N.  side,  founded 
in  1719,  was  the  first  of  the  now  numerous  hospitals  of  London 
supported  by  voluntary  contributions.  It  contains  205  beds.  —  To 
the  E.  of  the  hospital  is  the  Middlesex  Ouildhall  or  Sessions  House, 
recently  rebuilt.  —  In  Tothlll  St.,  to  the  W.  of  the  hospital,  on  the 
site  formerly  occupied  by  the  Royal  Aquarium,  a  large  Methodist 
Church  House  is  being  erected,  to  serve  as  headquarters  for  the 
Wesleyan  body.   Adjacent  is  the  Imperial  Theatre  (p.  46). 

From  Broad  Sanctuary  Victokia  Stbjbet  (PI.  R,  21,  25;  /K),  a 
wide  and  handsome  thoroughfare,  opened  in  1851  at  a  cost  of 
215,000^.,  leads  to  the  S.W.  to  Victoria  Station  (p.  27).  Among  its 
buildings  are  numerous  large  blocks  of  flats  and  chambers,  some 
large  hotels,  ihe  Army  and  Navy  Stores  (p.  64),  the  Ammcan  Embasgy 
(No.  123;  p.  67),  and  the  offices  of  the  official  representatives  of 
many  British  colonies  (p.  68).  At  No.  63  is  the  Meteorological  Office, 


250  19.  WESTMINSTER  CATHEDRAL.     TheWest  End, 

where  the  latest  forecast  of  the  weather  may  he  ohtalaed  for  a  fee 
of  1«.  (daily  11-8,  Sun.  7-8  p.m.).  —  In  Ashley  Place,  just  to  the 
S.  of  Victoria  Street,  stands  the  new  Roman  Catholic  — 

*WeBtmiiiBter  Cathedral  (PI.  R,  G,21 ;  /F),  a  huge  and  striking 
edifice  of  red  hrick  with  hands  of  Portland  stone,  designed  in  the 
early-Christian  Byzantine  style  hy  J.  F.  Bentley  (d.  1902),  and  built 
in  1895-1903.  The  campanile  (St  Edward's  Tower)  Is  283  ft.  in 
height  (to  the  top  of  the  cross),  while  ahove  the  nave  and  sanctuary 
rise  four  great  domes  of  concrete.  The  eflFective  W.  facade  has  a 
porch  with  three  doors,  ahove  and  hehind  which  rises  the  exterior 
of  the  narthex,  flanked  hy  two  turrets,  while  still  higher  is  the  large 
W.  window  of  the  nave. 

Intebior  (length  842  ft.,  breadth  across  nave  and  aisles  98  ft.,  height 
of  main  arches  90  ft.,  of  the  domes  112  ft.).  Notwithstanding  the  present 
bareness  of  the  brick  walls,  the  huge  dimensions  and  harmonious  pro- 
portions of  the  interior  produce  an  effect  of  imposing  dignity.  The  lower 
parts  of  the  massive  piers  and  walls  are  to  be  encrusted  with  marble, 
while  the  upper  parts,  the  vaulting,  and  the  domes  are  to  be  decorated 
with  mosaic)  illustrating  the  history  of  the  Roman  Catholic  church.  — 
Above  the  aisles  on  ea:h  side  of  the  Nave  and  over  the  narthex  at  the  E.  end 
are  galleries,  supported  by  arches  resting  on  monolithic  columns  of  coloured 
marble.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  nave  is  a  reproduction  of  the  statue  of  St. 
Peter,  in  St.  Peter's,  at  Rome.  Of  the  sevea  side-chapels  opening  off  the 
aisles  only  the  two  most  W.  have  received  th.-ir  intended  decoration  of 
mosaic  and  marble:  the  Chapel  of  8S.  Augustine  and  Gregory^  on  the  S., 
and  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Souls^  on  the  N.  Adjoining  the  former  is  the 
BaptieterVy  with  a  green  porphyry  font  in  the  Byzantine  style,  and  a  polished 
marble  pavement.  At  the  E.  end  of  the  K.  aiUe  is  the  Vaughan  Chantry ^ 
with  a  recumbent  marble  statue  of  Cardinal  Vaughan  (d.  1933).  At  the 
E.  end  of  the  nave  is  the  pulpit  of  costly  marble,  inlaid  in  ths  cos- 
matesque  style.  —  Hanging  from  the  arch  between  the  nave  and  the 
Sanctuary  is  a  huge  Cross  (^ft.  in  length)  in  the  Byzantine  style,  with  a 
painted  figure  of  Christ  on  one  side  and  one  of  the  Hater  Dolorosa  on 
the  other.  The  high-altar  in  the  sanctuary  consists  of  a  single  block  of 
grey  Cornish  granite,  12  tons  in  weight.  It  is  covered  by  a  baldacchino 
supported  on  eight  monolithic  columns  of  golden  onyx,  brought  from 
Africa.  To  the  left  is  the  archi episcopal  throne,  a  smaller  replica  of 
the  papal  throne  in  St.  John  Lateran's,  in  Rome.  The  sanctuary,  which  is 
4Vi  ft.  above  the  nave,  is  flanked  by  the  Chapel  of  Our  Lady  on  the  S. 
and  the  Chapel  of  the  Blessed  Sacrament  on  the  N.,  the  lattir  sumptuously 
adorned  with  marble  and  mosaics.  —  Behind  the  sanc'uu-y  is  the  Apsidal 
Choir^  13  ft.  above  the  nave,  beneath  which  is  a  fine  semicircular  crypt 
lined  with  Grecian  marble  and  dedicated  as  the  Chapel  of  St.  Peter  (adm. 
6(f.;  entrance  to  the  S.  of  the  Lady  Chapel).  Here,  in  a  small  chapel 
beneath  the  high  altar,  are  the  remains  of  Cardinals  Wiseman  (d.  1865) 
and  Manning  (d.  18 J2),  broaght  from  Kensal  Green  Cemetery  (p.  bSl).  In 
the  centre  is  the  monument  of  Card.  Wiseman:  to  the  right  that  of  Card. 
Manning.  —  The  campanile  (adm.  6d.)  commands  an  extensive  view. 

The  Cardinal  Archbishop  of  Westminster  resides  at  Archhishop^s  ffoute^ 
Ambrosden  Avenue,  which  has  a  covered  communication  with  the  cathedral. 

In  Caxton  Street,  to  the  N.,  near  8L  James's  Park  Station  (p.  32), 
Is  Caxton  Hall,  a  Jacobean  bnilding  of  red  brick.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  same  street,  a  little  farther  to  the  W.,  is  the  Blue  Coat 
School  (PI.  R,21;  IV),  a  smaU  building  ascribed  to  Wren  (1709). 
The  Orey  Coat  Hospital  (PI.  R,  26;  /F),  a  little  to  the  S.,  was  built 
in  the  17th  cent,  and  is  now  used  as  a  school  for  400  girls.  —  Bell 


TheWeatEnd.         20.  TATE  GALLERY.  *   251 

Street  leads  hence  to  the  S.  to  Vinant  Square  (Tl.  G,  21,  25),  the 
centre  of  which  Is  occupied  by  the  playing-field  of  Westminster 
School.  In  this  square,  at  the  corner  of  Bell  Street,  is  the  Royal 
Horlicidtural  HaU,  or  offices  of  the  Royal  HorticuUural  Society 
(established  In  1804). 

Besldcfl  a  large  hall  for  fli3  fortniglitly  shoves  of  thj  society,  the  build- 
ing (opened  in  1904)  contains  a  lecture-room  and  a  library.  —  The  gardens 
of  the  so2iety,  formerly  at  Chiswick  (p.  387),  have  since  1903  been  situated 
at  Wisleif  in  Surrey,  about  22  M.  from  London,  2Vt  U.  from  Horsley  station 
and  6V2  H.  from  Weybridge.  The  society  holdLs  its  chief  annual  flower- 
showa  in  the  Temple  gardens  (see  p.  154)  and  at  Holland  House  (p.  339). 


20.  The  Tate  Gallery. 

The  Tate  Gallery  is  most  convenleitly  reacbel  by  cab.  The  nearest 
railway-stations  are  Victoria  (1  M),  Weitmituter  (»/*  M.),  and  St.  James's  Park 
(i/i  11.  K  all  on  the  District  Railway  (p.  32).  —  From  Vicloria  a  tramway 
(Nos.  29,  30;  p.  22)  rum  to  Vauxhall  Bridge.^  within  1/4  M.  of  the  Gallery,  A 
motor-omnibas  service  from  Cricklewood  via  Piccadilly  Circu)  and  West- 
minster  passes  via  Atterbury  Street^  skirting  the  S.  side  of  the  Gallery. 

From  the  S.  end  of  the  Houses  of  Parliament  (p.  225)  Abingdon 
Street  and  Millbank,  traversing  a  squalid  neighbourhood  now  under- 
going extensive  improvement,  lead  to  the  S.  to  Lambeth  Bridge 
(PI.  G,  26,  29;  IV),  built  in  1862.  A  new  embankment  is  to  be 
constructed  from  the  Victoria  Tower  Gardens  (p.  226)  to  the  bridge. 
—  In  Smith  Square,  a  little  to  tbe  W.,  rises  the  large  church  of 
8L  John  the  Evangelist  (PI.  R,  29;  /V),  built  in  1721-28,  with  four 
heavy  corner-towers,  erected,  it  is  said,  to  produce  the  uniform  sub- 
sidence of  the  marshy  site.  In  the  E.  window  is  some  ancient  stained 
glass  brought  from  Rouen. 

From  Lambeth  Bridge  Grosvenor  Road  skirts  the  left  bank  of 
the  Thames  to  Vauxhall  Bridge  (p.  260),  passing  midway  the  site 
of  MiUbahk  Penitentiary,  a  model  prison  built  and  arranged  from 
designs  by  Jeremy  Bentham  (d.  i832).  The  prison  was  taken  down 
in  1893,  and  the  W.  part  of  the  site  is  now  covered  by  large  blocks 
of  workmen's  dwellings  (p.  xxxii),  while  the  E.  portion,  nearest 
the  river,  is  occupied  by  the  Tate  Gallery  (see  below),  flanked 
on  the  N.  by  Queen  Alexandra's  Military  Hospital  (opened  in 
1905)  and  on  the  S.  by  the  Royal  Army  Medical  College  and  Mill- 
■  bank  Barracks. 

The  •Tate  Gallery  (PI.  G,  26),  officially  styled  the  Kational 
Gallery  of  British  Art,  was  built  and  presented  to  the  nation, 
along  with  a  collection  of  65  modern  paintings,  by  Sir  Henry  Tate 
(d.  1899).  The  building,  opened  in  1897  and  enlarged  in  1899,  is  in 
a  free  classic  style.  In  the  centre  of  the  facade  is  a  handsome  pro- 
jecting Corinthian  portico,  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps;  at  each 
end  is  a  pavilion,  ^ith  Corinthian  pilasters,  connected  with  the 
central  portion  by  means  of  a  plain  ashlar  wall,  relieved  by  a  niche 
flanked  with  pilasters.    The  pediment  over  the  central  portico  is 


252 


20.  TATE  GALLERY. 


TUWe8tEnd. 


surmounted  by  a  colossal  Britannia,  behind  which  appears  a  low 
dome.  The  architect  was  Mr,  Sidney  B.  J.  Smith.  A  new  wing,  to  be 
specially  dedicated  to  the  works  of  Turnery  is  about  to  be  added.  — 
In  front  of  the  gallery  is  a  Statue  of  Sir  John  MiUais. 

Tbe  Tate  Gallery  affords  a  fairly  adequate  view  of  modern  British 
art  (comp.  pp.  110,  S&5).    Besides  the  Tate  CoUedion  it  contains  the  works 


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of  art  annually  purchased  under  the  conditions  of  the  Ghantrey  Bequest^ 
the  Vernon  CoVeetion  and  other  paintings  by  artists  of  the  19th  cent.,  in- 
cluding 8  >me  intereHing  canvases  by  J.  M.  W.  Turner,  removed  hither 
from  the  National  Gallery,  a  fine  series  of  paintings  by  O.  F.  Watte  (d.l904), 
presented  by  him  to  the  nation,  and  a  few  paintings  given  by  other  donors. 
There  are  also  a  few  sculptures.  The  keeper  is  Mr.  D.  S.  MacColl. 
Catalogue  (1907)  6d.  Ck>mp.  also  the  'Handboolc  to  the  Tate  Gallery'  by 
Edw.  T.  Cook. 

The  Tate  Gallery  is  under  the  management  of  tbe  Trustees  of  the  Na- 
tional Gallery  and  is  considered  as  a  branch  of  that  institution.  This  ac- 
eonnts  for  the  way  in  which  the  pictures  are  numbered.  Those  brought 
from  Trafalgar  Square  retain  Iheir  old  numbers,  while  the  other  pictures 
begin  with  No.  1498,  Ko.  1497  having  been  the  highest  number  at  the 
National  Gallery  when  the  Tate  Gallery  was  opened. 

There  is  a  simple  Be/rethment  Boom  in  the  basement,  besides  a  amall 
Tea  Room  on  the  groundfloor,  at  the  back  of  the  Central  Hall.  In  front 
of  the  tea-room  is  a  bronze  bu&t  of  Sir  Henry  Tate,  by  Brock. 


The  West  End.  20.  TATE  GALLERY.  253 

On  paesing  through  the  Ybstibule,  where  umbrellaB  etc.  may 
be  giyen  up  (no  charge),  we  enter  a  Central  Hall,  lighted  by  a 
dome  and  enlivened  by  a  fountain.  In  the  recesses  are  statues :  from 
left  to  right,  H.  Weeken,  Flaxman  the  sculptor ;  J.  H,  Foley,  Sir 
Joshua  Reynolds;  Sam.  Joaephy  Sir  David  Wilkie;  Thoa.  Brock, 
Thomas  Gainsborongh.  —  To  the  left  (W.)  is  — 

Soom  I.  In  this  and  the  other  rooms  we  begin  to  the  left  of  the 
entrance.  —  1276.  Constable,  Landscape;  1606.  Hoppner,  Portrait; 
1604.  Old  Crome,  Landscape;  1244,  1236.  Constable,  Landscapes; 
363.  Gilbert  Newton,  Yoriclt  and  the  giisette ;  1867.  J.  M.  W.  Turrter, 
Riyer-scene  with  cattle;  3*28.  Sir  David  Wilkie,  The  first  earrings ; 
1038.  Mulready,  Snow-scene ;  1043.  James  Ward,  Gordale  Scar, 
Yorkshire;  Sir  D.  Wilkie,  921.  'Blind  Man's  Buff'  (sketch  for  the 
painting  in  Buckingham  Palace),  231.  Thomas  Daniell,  R.  A.,  894. 
John  Knox  preaching;  369.  Eity,  The  lute-player;  2142.  J.  Ward, 
Gordale  Scar  (sketch);  1246.  Constable,  Landscape;  •366.  Et/y, 
'Youth  on  the  prow  and  pleasure  at  the  helm'  (Gray) ;  331.  Wilkie, 
Newsmongers.  —  917.  T.  S.  Good,  No  news;  401.  D.  Roberts, 
St.  Paul's,  at  Antwerp;  1236.  Constable,  House  in  which  the  artist 
was  born ;  614.  Etty,  The  bather ;  404.  Clarkson  Slanfeld,  Entrance 
to  the  Zuyder  Zee ;  1966.  George  Chambers,  Dutch  East  Indiamen 
weighing  their  anchors ;  1910.  William  Collins ^  Cromer  Sands ;  688. 
J.Ward,  Landscape  with  cattle;  662.  Turner,  Harvest  Home  (un- 
finished sketch);  1204.  James  Stark,  The  valley  of  the  Yare,  near 
Thorpe,  Norwich;  1428.  R.  H.  Lancaster,  View  at  Southampton; 
Wilkie,  330.  Woody  landscape,  2131.  The  picnic,  241.  The  parish- 
beadle;  416.  H.  Pickersgill,  Robert  Vernon  ;  1237.  Constable,  Land- 
scape ;  438.  John  Linnell,  Wood- cutters. 

Boom  II.  1226.  Thos.  Webster,  Father  and  mother  of  the  artiet ; 
1040.  W.  J.  Miiller,  Landscape ;  362.  William  Collins,  Prawn- catchers ; 
412.  Sir  Edwin  Landseer  (1802-73),  Hunted  stag;  1386.  Aug.  Egg, 
Beatrix  knighting  Esmond  (from  Thackeray) ;  2164.  Jawes  Stark, 
Woody  landscape ;  1181.  Mulready,  Sea-shore  scene ;  422.  D.  Maclise, 
Play  scene  in  'Hamlet';  442.  G.  Lance,  Red-cap;  374.  Richard 
Bonington,  Column  of  St.  Mark,  Venice;  414,  413  (farther  on),  Sir 
E.  Landseer,  War  and  Peace ;  402.  C.  R.  Leslie,  Sancho  Panza  and 
the  Duchess  (replica  of  a  work  now  at  Petworth) ;  400.  D.  Roberts, 
Burgos  Cathedral;  1632.  Landseer,  A  scene  at  Abboisford.  —  403. 
C.  R.  Leslie,  Uncle  Toby  and  the  Widow  Wadman ;  430.  E.  M.  Ward, 
Dr.  Johnson  in  the  anteroom  of  Lord  Chesterfield  (1748) ;  Mulready, 
394.  Fair-time,  1797.  An  interior  with  a  woman  and  her  child.  — 
1795.  Etty,  Pandora  crowned  by  the  seasons ;  462.  J.  F.  Herring, 
The  scanty  meal;  S2S.  Easilake,  Portrait;  AM.  Aug.  Egg,  Scene 
from  the  'Diable  Boiteux';  427.  T.  Webster,  A  dame's  school;  393. 
Mulready,  The  last  in;  1396.  EattlaJce,  Portrait;  1112.  John  LinneU, 
Portrait. 

Boom  ni.  620.  Lee,  River-scene,  with  caltle  by  T.  S.  Cooper; 


254  20.  TATE  GALLERY.  The  West  End, 

1474.  Wm.MulUr,  Dredging  on  the  Medway;  20^0,  LinneU,  The 
last  load;  1633.  (?.  F.  Watts,  Dray  horses;  1600.  B.  B,  Martineau, 
The  last  day  in  the  old  home;  1967.  F.  Y.  HurlHone,  A  scene 
from  Gil  Bias;  1142.  Cecil  Lawson,  August  moon;  *i%d.  Whistler^ 
Old  Battersea  Bridge;  1091.  P.  F,  Poole,  Vision  of  Ezekiel;  1775. 
Alf.  Stevens  (the  sculptor),  Portrait;  1S20.  G".  F,  Watts,  Life's 
illusions;  2132.  Alf,  Stevens,  John  Morris  Moore;  1601.  Legros, 
Women  praying;  1661.  0,  F,  Watts,  Portrait  of  himself  (1864); 
1499.  Wm.  Eiltcn,  Nature  blowing  bubbles  for  her  children;  1206. 
F.  L.  Bridell,  "Woods  of  sweet  chestnut  above  Varenna;  1634. 
J.  Phillip,  The  promenade ;  769.  E,  Armitage,  Remorse  of  Judas.  — 
1492.  Oeo.  Bichmcnd,  Christ  and  the  Woman  of  Samaria;  1649. 
Albert  Moore,  Blossoms.  — ^  Facing  the  door,  Bronze-bust  of  Clytie, 
by  O,  F.  Walts.  —  •1210.  Dante  Gabriel  Bcssetti,  The  Annunciation 
(the  Virgin  is  a  portrait  of  Christina  Rossetti,  the  poetess,  sister 
of  the  artist),  painted  in  1850;  1426.  Dyce,  St.  John  leading  the 
Virgin  from  the  Tomb ;  2063.  Ford  Madox  Brown,  Chaucer  at  the 
court  of  Edward  IIL;  ^1279.  D.  0.  Bossetti,  'Beata  Beatrix'  (a  por- 
trait of  the  artist's  wife,  painted  in  1863,  the  year  after  her  death; 
the  date  at  the  top  of  the  frame  is  that  of  Beatrice's  death,  June  9tb, 
1290) ;  •1394.  Fcrd  Madox  Broun,  Christ  washing  St.  Peter's  feet 
(the  fair-haired  disciple  near  the  middle  of  the  table  is  a  portrait 
of  Holman  Hunt  and  next  him  is  D.  G.  Rossetti ;  the  bald  disciple 
is  W.  M.  Rossetti) ;  no  number,  Bossetti,  Portrait  of  Mrs.  William 
Morris  (on  loan) ;  <2120.  Holman  Hunt,  The  ship;  177 i.  Sir.  Ed. 
Bume- Jones,  Kir  g  Cophetua  and  the  Beggar  Maid ;  Sir  John  E.  Millais 
(1829-96),  *1606.  Ophelia  (1852),  1494.  Yeoman  of  the  guard, 
•1507.  Vale  of  rest  (1868;  note  the  coffin-shaped  cloud);  1685.  H. 
Wallis,  Death  of  Chatteiton ;  1657.  Sir  J.  Millais,  Order  of  release 
(1834;  the  prisoner's  wife  is  a  portrait  of  Lady  Millais) ;  1407.  Dyce, 
Pegwell  Bay. 

Boom  IV.  J.  F.  Lewis,  1688.  Courtyard  of  the  Coptic  Patriarch's 
house  in  Cairo,  1406.  Edfou,  in  Upper  Egypt;  563.  T.  Seddon, 
Jerusalem  and  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat ;  1477.  Inchhold,  The  moor- 
land; 1510.  Sir  J.  Millais,  Mercy  (St.  Bartholomew's  Day,  1572), 
painted  in  1886;  1612.  J.  C.  Hook,  Home  with  the  tide;  ♦1691. 
Millais,  Boyhood  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh;  1625.  T.  Faed,  The  silken 
gown;  1509.  Millais,  The  North- West  Passage  (18741,  with  a  por- 
trait of  Trelawney,  the  friend  of  Byron  and  Shelley ;  1908.  J.  Phillip, 
The  piison-window;  Fred.  Walker,  •1391.  The  harbour  of  refuge, 
•1209.  The  vagrants;  1508.  Millais,  The  knight- errant  (1870); 
F.  Holl,  1636.  Hiishl,  1536  (farther  on),  Hushed;  1564.  AfiYtow, 
A  disciple.  —  1563.  Millais,  St.  Stephen  (1895);  1538.  Erskine 
Nicol,  Emigrants;  1568.  O.  H.  Mason,  Wind  on  the  wold;  1546. 
J.  Linnell,  Noonday-rest;  1388.  O.  Mason,  The  cast  shoe;  1907. 
J.  Philtip,  Gossips  at  a  well;  1948.  Sir  E.  J.  Poynter,  Outward 
bound;  W.  P.  Frith,  1781.  Uncle  Toby  and  the  Widow  Wadmanj 


TheWfstEnd.         20.  TATE  GALLERY.  255 

♦1603.  Londseer  and  Millais,  Equestrian  portrait.  This  work  was 
begun  by  Land  seer  for  a  portrait  of  Queen  Victoria,  but  left  un- 
flnisbed.  Millais  added  the  rider  (a  portrait  of  his  daughter),  the 
page,  the  dog,  and  the  background.  The  picture  is  also  known  as 
*Nell  Gwyune'  or  *Dlana  Vernon'.  1526.  T.  Faed^  Faults  on  both  sides  j 
1528.  Davw,  Mother  and  son ;  Linndl,  1547.  Contemplation,  439. 
Windmill;  1539.  0,  //.  Boughton,  Weeding  the  pavement ;  1936. 
Sam.  Boughj  Landscape j  1527.  T.  Faed^  The  Highland  mother; 
1940.  O.  D,  Leslie,  Kept  in  school ;  1523.  Alma  Tadema,  A  silent 
greeting.  —  2061.  Bust  of  W.  P.  Frith,  R.  A.,  by  John  Thomas; 
1753.  The  Singer,  statuette  by  Onslow  Ford. 

Boom  V.  1513.  J.  0.  Hook,  Young  dreams;  *1515.  Briton 
Bivi^re,  Miracle  of  the  Gadarene  swine;  1511.  Lord  Leightony  ^And 
the  sea  gave  up  the  dead  which  were  in  it' ;  1550.  A.  Goodwin,  Sin- 
bad  the  Sailor;  Dendy  Sadler,  1556.  A  good  story,  1555  (farther 
on),  Tliursday;  W.  Q.  Orchardson,  1519.  Iler  first  dance,  1520.  The 
first  cloud,  1521.  Her  mother's  voice;  A,  C  Oow,  1629.  Musical 
story  by  Chopin,  1530.  A  lost  cause.  —  1548.  Keely  Halswdle, 
Pangbourne;  1514.  J,  C  Hook,  Seaweed  raker. 

Boom  VI.  The  paintings  on  the  left  side  of  this  room  are  mainly 
by  foreign  artists.  —  1690.  Edwin  Edwards,  The  Thames  from  a 
wharf  near  Waterloo  Bridge;  2119.  James  Charles,  Will  it  rain?; 
815.  P.  J,  Clays,  Dutch  shipping;  1448.  Bonvin,  Landscape;  810. 
Charles  Poussin,  Pardon-day  in  Brittany;  1909.  P.  Delaroche,  Execu- 
tion of  Lady  Jane  Grey;  621.  Rofa  Bonheur,  The  horse-fair;  1686. 
H,  Fantin-Latour,  Flowers;  1493.  Giov.  Costa,  Landscape;  2214. 
F.  Huddlestone  Potter,  'Little  Dormouse' ;  1657.  J.  B,  Reid,  A  country 
cricket-match.  — •  1502.  H.  Macallum,  The  crofter's  team ;  2116. 
Wm»  Rotfunstein,  Jews  mourning  in  a  synagogue;  2117.  A.  Legros, 
Portrait-study  of  Mr.  Jobn  Gray;  *2059.  C.  W.  Furse,  Diana  of  the 
uplands;  1955.  Hugh  Carter,  The  last  ray ;  no  number,  C,  W,  Furse, 
Equestrian  portrait  of  Lord  Roberts  (unfinished;  on  loan);  1656. 
T.  H.  McLachlan,  Landscape;  *2053.  Sargent,  Miss  Ellen  Terry  as 
Lady  Macbeth ;  2108.  F,  Huddlestone  Potter,  The  music  lesson  ;  1956. 
Robert  Brough,  'Fantaisie  en  folie' ;  1736.  David  Cox,  Beckenham 
Church,  Kent;  2109-2115.  Hercules  B,  Brabazon,  Water-colour 
sketches.  —  1762.  Pomeroy,  Dionysos;  1760.  R,  Stark,  Indian 
rhinoceros  (two  bronzes). 

Boom  VIL  Watis  Collection.  This  room  is  devoted  to  works 
by  George  Frederick  Watts,  R,  A,  (1817-1904),  mostly  of  a  large  size 
and  interesting  not  only  for  their  fine  colouring  but  in  many  cases 
also  for  their  wealth  of  allegorical  or  symbolical  allusion.  To  the 
left,  as  we  enter  from  Hall  VIII:  1687.  The  Allj^ervading;  1647. 
ChLOs;  1635.  Death  crowning  Innocence;  •164l.  Love  and  Life 
(there  are  replicas  of  this  painting  in  the  Luxembourg  and  in  the 
Corcoran  Gallery  at  Washington);  1692.  Lo^ e  triumphant ;  *1645. 
Love  and  Death ;  *1640.  Hope ;  1638.  'Sic  transit  gloria  mundi' ; 


256  20.  TATE  GALLERY.  The  West  End. 

1646.  The  Messenger;  1894.  The  court  of  Death;  1637.  The  Spirit 
of  Christianity,  dedicated  to  all  the  churches ;  1636.  Jonah ;  1630. 
Mammon  (dedicated  to  his  worshippers) ;  1632.  *For  he  had  great 
possessions';  1643.  Eve  tempted;  1642.  *She  shall  be  called  woman* ; 
1644.  Eve  repentant;  1631.  The  dweller  in  the  innermost;  1693. Time, 
Death,  and  Judgment  (comp.  p.  88) ;  1634.  TheMinotaur;  1639.  Faith. 

Hall  Vni.  ScuLPTUKB.  To  the  left:  1748.  W,  Calder  MarshaU, 
Prodigal  Son;  1954.  O.  J,  Framptonj  Charles  S.  Keene  (relief); 
1747.  T.  Brock,  A  moment  of  peril ;  1749.  H.  C.  Fehr^  Perseus  and 
Andromeda;  1767.  H,  Bates,  Hounds  in  leash;  1766.  Colton,  The 
girdle;  1766.  H,  Pegram,  Ignis  Fatuus;  1783.  H,  Bates,  War.  1928. 
Colton,  Springtime  of  life;  1906.  Lantiri,  Paysan;  1760.  H.  Bates^ 
Pandora;  1767.  A,  Drury,  Griselda.  1754.  Lord  Leighton,  Athlete 
struggling  with  a  python;  1784.  E.  Brock,  Eve;  1766.  W,  O.  John, 
Boy  at  play;  ^1746.  John  Gibson,  Hylas  and  the  water-nymphs. 
2054.  Armstead,  Hero  and  Leander;  1751.  Hamo  Thomycroft,  Teucer ; 
2075.  H.  Weekes,  Thomas  Stothard,  R.  A.;  1945.  H,  Pegram,  Sibylla 
Fatidica;  2076.  H.  Wccfe<!s,  William  Mulready,  R.  A.;  *1752.  Lord 
Leighton,  The  sluggard.  —  This  room  contains  also  a  painting  by 
Watts  (1983.  Echo)  and  a  cartoon  for  a  poster  (2080.  The  Woman 
in  White)  by  Fred,  Walker, 

Boom  XI,  opposite  R.  VII.  Turner  CoLiiEcrioN.  This  room  is 
devoted  to  works  by  J.  M,  W,  Turner  (1775-1851).  —  1867.  Car- 
narvon Castle;  2066.  A  ship  aground;  2068.  The  burning  of  the 
ships;  661  (above),  Mountain  glen  (unfinished) ;  •1987.  Breakers 
on  a  flat  beach;  *1984.  Margate  from  the  sea;  1994,  1995.  Yacht- 
racing  in  ihe  Solent;  1992.  The  Thames  from  above  Waterloo  Bridge; 
*1991.  The  evening  star;  645  (above).  Whalers;  1980.  Storm  off  a 
rocky  coast;  1999.  Shipping  off  a  headland ;  2001.  Study  of  sea  and 
sky;  564.  The  departure  of  the  Trojan  fleet;  1990.  Sunrise,  with  a  sea 
monster;  663.  Mercury  sent  to  admonish  ^neas;  607(above),  Scene 
from  Boccaccio.  —  *2066.  The  Arch  of  CouFt^ntlne,  Rome;  631. 
Shade  and  darkness ;  660  (above),  The  angel  standing  in  the  sun ;  649. 
Undine  giving  the  ring  to  MasanielJo;  632.  Light  and  colour  (Goethe's 
theory);  *2067.  Tivoli.  —  615.  Lord  Percy  under  attainder,  1606; 
1996.  Between  decks;  614.  Watteau  painting;  655.  The  visit  to  the 
tomb;  1993.  Yacht-racing  in  the  Solent;  1986.  Hastings;  2000. 
Shipping  at  Cowes;  1989.  Rocky  bay  with  classic  figures;  2002. 
Sunrise,  with  a  boat  between  headlands;  562  (above),  iEneas  relating 
his  story  to  Dido;  •1986.  Sunrise,  Bay  ofBai»(?);  1898.  Shipping  at 
Cowes;  ^1981.  Norham  Castle,  sunrise;  1997.  A  regatta  at  Cowes; 
1988.  Interior  at  Petworth ;  617.  Shadrach,  Meshach,  andAbednego 
coming  forth  from  the  burning  fiery  furnace;  629.  The  exile  and 
the  rock  limpet;  4S2064.  The  Old  Chain  Pier,  Brighton. 

Room  IX.  1902.  Brett,  From  the  Dorsetshire  clifl's;-4677.  A, 
MaeCallum,  Silvery  moments,  BumhamBeeches ;  i6Q7,  Lady  Stanley, 
His  first  ofl'ence;  2216.  Charles  Kerr[(A,  1907),' Portrait  of  the  artist; 


TheWestEnd.         20.  TATE  GALLERY.  257 

1643.  J.  W.  WaUrhouse,  The  Lady  of  Shalott;  1782.  Davis^  After 
sunset;  1919.  H.  WeUs,  Victoria  Regina  (p.  330);  1544.  Stanhope 
A.  Forbes^  The  health  of  the  bride;  1641.  Waterhouse^  Consulting 
the  oracle;  1772.  B.  Peacock,  The  sisters;  Briton  Bivihre^  1618. 
A  blockade-runner,  1566.  Sympathy,  1517.  Companions  in  mis- 
fortune; 152A.  PeUr  Cfraham,  A  rainy  day.  —  1640.  J5.  W,  Leader, 
Valley  of  the  Llugwy;  1616.  B.  Biviere,  Giants  at  play;  1531.  H, 
Woods,  Cupid's  speU;  1672.  WaUrhouse,  The  magic  circle;  1913. 
Wo««,A  story  from  Boccaccio;  1542.  ^aterhouse,  St.  Eulalia  (whose 
martyred  corpse  was  shrouded  by  a  miraculous  fall  of  snow);  1560. 
T.  B,  Kennington,  Orphans;  1553.  Lady  Butler,  The  remnants  of 
an  army;  1655.  C.  P.  Knight,  The  Kyles  of  Bute. 

Boom  X  contains  a  cartoon  for  the  mosaic  of  Isaiah  in  St.  Paul's 
(p.  88)  by  Alf.  Stevens  and  seyeral  drawings  and  studies  by  him ; 
also,  1702.  Bossetti,  Rosa  Triplex  (a  drawing). 

Boom  XII.  Ohantbbt  Bsqurst.  1623.  Ad,  Stokes,  Upland  and 
sky;  1898.  A.  Brown,  Morning;  1626.  Jos,  Farquharson,  The  joyless 
winter  day;  1962.  /.  Aumonier,  The  Black  Mountaius;  1628.  E. 
Parton,  The  waning  of  the  year;  M,  B,  Corbet,  1592.  Morning  glory, 
1899.  Vald'Arno;  1673.  Yeend  King,  Milking  time;  1698.  J,  Y, 
Hunter,  My  lady's  garden.  —  1600.  J,  B.  Beid,  Toil  and  Pleasure; 
1947.  Arthur  Wardle,  Fate;  1960.  Edgar  Bundy,  The  morning  of 
Sedgemoor;  1576.  H,  Herkomer,  Found;  1926.  David  Murray,  Con- 
stable's country;  1606.  C.  E,  Johnson,  Guith  and  his  swine  (from 
'Ivanhoe');  1648.  David  Farquharson,  In  a  fog;  1838.  H,  W,  Adams, 
Winter's  sleep;  1660.  Napi<r  Hemy,  Pilchards;  1900.  A,  Ooodwin, 
Ali  Baba  and  the  Forty  Thieves;  1595.  W.  SmaU,  The  last  match; 
2072.  David  Farquharson,  Birnam  Wood.  In  the  centre :  1929. 
JS,  H,  Armstead,  Remorse;  1759.  Pomeroy,  The  nymph  of  Loch  Awe. 

Boom  Xin.  Chantbbt  Bequbst.  1625.  J.  M,  Strudwidc,  A 
golden  thread;  1624.  T.  M.  Booke,  Story  of  Rnth;  1622.  Jos,  Knight, 
A  tidal  river;  1570.  Vol.  Prinsep,  Ayesha;  1963.  C,  W.  Furse,  The 
return  from  the  ride;  1901.  J,  J.  Shannon,  The  flower-girl;  1598. 
J.  C.  Hook,  The  stream;  1611.  F,  D,  Millet,  Between  two  fires; 
1927.  Ad,  Stokes,  Autumn  in  the  mountains.  —  1607.  J.  W.  North, 
The  winter  sun;  1696.  Sir  E,  Waterlow,  Galway  gossips;  1608. 
Davis,  Returning  to  the  fold;  1694.  C,  W,  WyUie,  Digging  for  bait; 
1774.  Davis,  Approaching  night.  —  1964.  Harold  Speed,  The  Al- 
cantara, Toledo,  by  moonlight;  1597.  B,  W,  Macbeth,  The  cast  shoe; 
2071.  Frank  Craig,  The  heretic;  1961.  F.  C,  Cowper,  St.  Agnes  in 
prison  receiving  from  heaven  the  shining  white  garment. 

Boom  XIV.  Chant&by  Bbquest.  1693.  J,  Clark,  Mother's 
darling;  1604.  H,  Moore,  Oatspaws  off  the  laud;  1613.  H,  S.  Take, 
August  blue;  1614.  David  Murray,  *My  love  has  gone  a-sailing'; 
♦1616.  J.  S,  Sargent,  Carnation.  Lily,  Lily,  Rose;  1617.  J.  Brett, 
Britannia's  realm;  1616.  Hon.  John  Collier,  Last  voyage  of  Henry 
Hudson;  1618.  H,  S,   Tuke,  *AU  hands  to  the  pump';  1627.  F, 

Babi>kkxb*8  London.    15th  Edit.  I'J 


258  20.  TATE  GALLERY.         The  West  End, 

Bramley^  A  hopeless  dawn;  1773.  T.  SomerscaleSy  Off  Valparaiso; 
*1621.  Wm,  Logsdail,  St.  Martin's  in  the  Fields  (p.  163).  —  2070. 
O.  D.  Lesliej  The  deserted  mill;  1678.  S.  Melton  Fishery  In  realms 
of  fancy;  1590.  T.  C.  (?o<c/j,  Alleluia.  — 1649.  Lucy  E.  Kemp-Weleh, 
Colt-hunting  in  the  New  Forest;  1599.  Vieat  Cole,  The  Pool  of 
London  (p.  123);  1601.  W.  Q.  Orchardson^  Napoleon ^n  hoard  the 
'Bellerophon';  1602.  H,  Herkomer,  Charterhouse  Chapel;  1697. 
W.  L.  WyKitj  Battle  of  the  Nile;  1603.  Ed,  Hayes,  Sunset  at  sea; 
1610.  Clark^  Early  promise.  In  the  centre:  2140.  Bertram  Mackennal^ 
The  earth  and  the  elements;  2141.  8,  M,  Wiens,  Girl  and  lizard. 

Boom  XVI.  Chantbby  Bequest.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance 
from  R.  XIII:  1679.  H.  J.  Draper,  The  lament  for  Icarus;  1609. 
W.  F,  YeameSf  Amy  Robsart;  1629.  W.  Hilton^  Christ  crowned 
with  thorns;  1676.  A.  Hacker^  Annunciation.  —  1839.  F.  Dicksee, 
The  two  crowns.  In  the  centre:  1768.  Onslow  Ford^  Folly  (statuette). 

Boom  XV.  Chantbby  Bequest.  1569.  J.  M.  Swan,  Prodigal 
Son;  1672.  S,  Peacock,  Ethel;  1619.  J.  Aumonier,  Sheep- washing 
in  Sussex;  1612.  6?.  Clausen,  The  girl  at  the  gate;  1579.  Colin 
Hunter,  Their  only  harvest;  *1574.  Lord  Leightcn,  Bath  of  Psyche; 
*i580.  W.  L.  Wyllk,  Toil,  glitter,  grime,  and  wealth  on  a  flowing  tide  ; 
*1605.  H. La  r/iarjyue, The  man  with  the  scythe;  1946.  Napier  Hemy, 
London  river;  1678.  Anna  Merritt,  Love  locked  out;  1677.  Briton 
Rivihrej  Beyond  man's  footsteps.  —  1671.  J.  MaeWhirter,  June  in 
the  Austrian  Tyrol;  1581.  W.  Hunt,  Dog  in  the  manger;  1582. 
J.  Pettie,  Vigil;  1583.  Marcus  Stone,  '11  y  en  a  toujours  un  autre'; 
1684.  Sir  John  MilLais,  *Speak,  SpeakI';  1585.  G.  F.  Watts,  Psyche] 
above,  1591.  Portrait  of  Sir  Francis  Chantny,  by  himself ;  1586.  Sir 
E,  J.  Poynter,YisH  to  ^sculapius;  1687.  Frank  Dicksee,  Harmony; 
1688.  A.  C.  GoiPjCromwell  at  Dunbar;  1589.  i4.Parsons,'When nature 
painted  all  things  gay';  1620.  J.  Seymour  Lucas,  After  Culloden. 

In  the  corridor  on  which  Rooms  XIV  and  XV  open  is  a  relief 
of  Thetis  and  Achilles,  by  Thomas  Banks. 

We  now  ascend  to  the  Upper  Floor  by  the  staircase  marked 
*up',  to  the  S.  of  the  entrance.  Above  the  staircase  and  opposite : 
Eastlake,  399.  Escape  of  the  Carrara  Family  from  the  pursuit  of 
the  Duke  of  Milan  in  1389,  1398.  Ippolita  Torelli;  on  the  left, 
1728.  W.  J.  MiilUr,  Lake-side  scene.  —  Gallery.  Right,  440. 
T.  Lane,  The  gouty  angler;  left,  1803.  C.  R.  Lislie,  Sir  John 
E.  Millais;  1226.  Landster,  A  distinguished  member  of  the  Royal 
Humane  Society;  1392  (above),  J.  Z.  Bell,  Card.  Bourchier  urging 
the  widow  of  Edward  IV.  to  let  her  son  ont  of  sanctuary  (p.  249); 
(i.)424.  8,  Hart,  Jewish  synagogue;  1802.  E.W.  Cooke,  A  mill 
near  Oxford;  (1.)  443.  Q,  Lance,  Fruit;  1800.  T.  5.  Cooper,  Land- 
scape and  cattle;  Landster,  410.  Low  life  and  high  life,  411.  High- 
land music;  T.  8.  Qood,  919.  Study  of  a  boy,  378.  The  newspaper ; 
426.  T.  WehsUr,  The  truant;  1029  (above),  W.  Linton,  Pffistum; 
1533.  Landseer,  Uncle  Tom  and  his  wife  for  sale,  608.  Alexander 


TheWestEnd,        20.   TATE  aALLERY.  259 

and  Diogenes ;  1498  (aboYfc\  J.  P.  Knight,  Sack  of  a  church  in  the 
time  of  John  Knox;  (r.)  446.  J.  C,  Horsley,  The  pride  of  the  Tillage 
(from  W.  Irving*8  *  Sketch-Book');  1787.  Landaeerj  A  dankey  and 
foal;  1285.  Horace  Vemet^  Portrait  of  Napoleon  I.  Then,  beyond 
some  sketches  in  oil  by  C.  B,  LtsUe,  (I.)  E.  M.  Ward,  432.  The 
South  SeaBnbble  (1720),  431.  Fall  of  Lord  Clarendon;  460  (above), 
F.  Goodall,  Tillage  holiday  in  the  olden  time;  (r.)  407.  Clarkson 
Stanfteld,  The  Canal  of  the  Gnidecca,  Venice;  1786.  Alexandre 
Calame,  Lake  of  Thnn;  (1.)  1389.  G.  B.  Willcock,  Chelston  Lane, 
Torquay;  609.  Landseer,  The  maid  and  the  magpie;  1684  (above), 
Jos,  Webb,  Mont  St.  Michel;  429.  T.  Crcatri<?fc,Pathway  to  the  village 
chnrch;  441.  Lanc«,  Frnlt  and  bird's  nest;  (r.)  451.  F,  Ooodall, 
The  tired  Foldier;  1785.  Creswick,  Landscape  and  river;  (1.)  616, 
E,  M,  Ward,  James  II.  receiving  the  news  of  the  landing  of  the  Prince 
of  Orange  (1688) ;  1554  (above),  John  Haynes-WUliams, '  Ars  longa, 
vita  brevis';  (r.)  1169.  Ary  Scheffer,  Portrait  of  Mrs.  Robert  Hollond ; 
(1.)  several  sketches  by  C.  R.  Leslie;  1788.  F.  B,  Lee,  Landscape, 
with  figures  by  Landseer;  (r.)  406.  Clarkson  Stanfield,  Lake  of  Como ; 
1322.  Wm,  BeU  Scott,  The  eve  of  the  Deluge;  (1.)  600.  Vyckmans, 
Blind  beggar;  1789.  i4.  ^awr,  Figures  outside  an  inn;  1912.  W. 
CoUins,  Sunday  morning;  364.  O.  S.  Newtcn,  The  window;  1662 
(above),  E.Waller,  Sweethearts  and  wives;  1463.  MiJUer.  Street  in 
Cairo;  (r.)  1968.  Cooke,  Boat,  near  Venice;  (1.)  918.  Good,  Fisherman 
with  gun;  1253.  J.  Holland,  View  of  Hyde  Park  Corner,  looking 
east;  1659  (above),  8.  J.  Carter,  Morning  with  the  wild  red  deer; 
1537.  Erskine  Nicol,  Wayside  prayer;  448.  Cooke,  The  boat-house; 
1809.  J.  Holland,  The  Grand  Canal, Venice;  MiUais,  1807.  A  maid 
offering  a  basket  of  fruit  to  a  cavalier,  1808.  Charles  T.  and  his  son 
in  the  studio  of  Van  Dyck;  1921.  C.  Calihrop,  Scottish  Jacobites; 
1651  (above),  8.  E.  Waller,  Success;  1806.  Lord  Leighton,  Romeo 
and  Juliet  (Act  IV,  Scene  6);  (r.)  447.  Cocke,  Dutch  shipping; 
379.  Muller,  Lycian  peasants;  1379.  Woodward,  The  rat-catcher.  — 
1568.  E,  Douglas,  Mother  and  daughter;  1720.  Copley  Fielding^ 
View  in  Sussex;  1974.  Wm.  H.  -ffunt,  Apples;  (r.)  no  number, 
Landseer,  Portrait  of  John  Landseer  (on  loan) ;  Wm.  H.  Hunt,  1973. 
A  water  carrier,  1971.  Peasant  girl;  1977.  M.  B.  Foster,  Cottage  at 
Hambledon;  607.  Landseer,  Highland  dogs.  Opposite,  1976.  D, 
Roberts,  The  shrine  of  Edward  the  Confessor;  1931.  Sir  John  Gilbert^ 
Old  gravel  pit  in  Greenwich  Park;  1970.  Wm.  H.  Hunf,  An  old 
man's  head;  1978.  8.  Prout,  A  street  in  Antwerp;  1934.  Sir  J. 
Gilbert,  The  happiest  land;  1721.  Catiermole,  A  castle  entrance; 
1932.  Sir  J.  Gilbert,  Bringing  up  a  gun;  1722.  W.  Bennett,  In 
Richmond  Park ;  also  various  sketches. 

Front  Room,  beginning  to  the  left  of  the  S.  entrance.  2073, 
B,  A.  BeU,  The  listeners;  1907.  L.  P.  Smythe,  Germinal;  1713. 
T.  Wade,  An  old  mill;  1703.  A.  W,  Hvnt,  Windsor  Castle;  1723. 
A.  B.  Donaldson,  Puente  San  Martin,  Toledo;  1704.  E.  J.  Gregory^ 

17* 


260  21.  PALL  MALL.  The  West  End. 

Marooning;  1724.  A.  MacCaUum,  Monarch  of  the  glen;  437.  F, 
Danby,  The  fisherman's  home,  sunrise;  1726.  C.  MaundreU,  Chateau 
•d'O.  —  1566.  W,  J.  MiiUer,  Carnarvon  Castle;  1711.  B,  B.  Nishet, 
Evening  stillness;  1911.  C\  Vacher,  Rezzonico;  397.  EasUakejChnat 
lamenting  over  Jerusalem;  1979.  J.  F,  Tayler,  Dragoons  on  the 
march;  898.  Eastlake^  Lord  Byron's  dream;  1710.  Leopold  Rivers, 
Stormy  weather;  1545.  J,  B.  Pyne,  Totland  Bay.  —  1712.  Walter 
Osborne,  Life  in  the  streets,  hard  times;  1725.  J.  P.  Qulich^  A 
violin  concerto;  1904.  J.  W.  -4 ifen,  Landscape;  1708.  Mildred  Butler, 
A  morning  bath ;  1714.  H.  Macallum,  Gathering  sea-weed;  1718. 
A,  OUndening,  Hay-making;  2139.  W.  C.  Simmonds,  The  seeds  of 
love;  1715.  H.  Macallum,  Boy  of  Capri.  —  1707.  Q,  Cockram,  Soli- 
tude; 1705.  H.  Dixon,  Lious;  1965.  Edwin  AlexarMier,  Peacock  and 
python ;  1780.  Coofcc,Venetian  canal ;  1706.  H.  S.  Hopwood,  Industry. 

On  quitting  the  Tate  Gallery  we  turn  to  the  right.  Vauxhall 
Bridge  (PI.  G,  26),  ah  iron  and  steel  structure,  759  ft.  in  length 
and  80  ft.  in  breadth,  by  Mr.  Maurice  Fitzmaurice,  was  opened  in 
1906,  on  the  site  of  an  older  bridge  with  nine  iron  arches  con- 
structed by  Walker  in  1816.  The  span  of  the  central  arch  is  150  ft. 
Vauxhall  Bridge  Road  runs  hence  to  the  N.  to  Victoria  Station  (p.  27 ; 
tramways  Nos.  29,  30,  p.  22).  —  A  little  to  the  S.  of  Vauxhall 
Bridge  Is  Kennmgton  Oval  (p.  52). 

The  river  is  crossed  farther  up  by  the  Orotvenor  Road  Bridge^  used 
for  the  various  railways  converging  at  Victoria  Station,  and  by  Chelsea 
Suspension  Bridge  (p.  366). 

21.   Pall  Mall  and  Piccadilly. 

Waterloo  Place.  York  Column.  Marlborough  House.  St.  James's 
Street.    Burlington  House.    Leicester  Square. 

PaU  HaU  (PI.  R,  22, 26;  IV),  the  centre  of  club-life  (see  p.  74), 
and  a  street  of  modem  palaces,  derives  its  name  from  the  old 
game  of  pail  mail  (from  the  Italian  palla,  ^a  ball',  and  maglio,  a 
mallet ;  French  jeu  de  mxiit).  Introduced  into  England  during  the 
reign  of  Charles  I.  In  the  16th  and  17th  centuries  Pall  Mall  was  a 
fashionable  suburban  promenade,  but  about  the  end  of  the  17th 
cent.  It  began  to  assume  the  form  of  a  street. 

Among  the  many  celebrated  persons  who  have  resided  in  this  street 
may  be  mentioned  Marshall  Schomberg,  the  Ecion  of  a  noble  Bhenish 
family  (the  Counts  of  Schonburg),  who  fell  at  the  Battle  of  the  Boyne  (1690). 
Gainsborough  died  in  1783  in  the  house  which  had  once  been  Scliomberg''s 
(house  next  the  former  War  Office,  see  p.  262),  now  rebuilt  and  occupied  by 
Prince  and  Princess  Christian).  Dodsley,  the  publisher,  carried  on  business 
in  Pall  Mall  under  the  sign  of  ^Tuliy  s  Head',  bringing  out,  among  other  works, 
Sterne'^s  'Tristram  Shandy'  and  the  'Annual  Register'.  Nell  Qwynne  lived 
at  'So.  79  (rebuilt)  from  1671  till  her  death  in  1687  and  used  to  talk  over  the 
garden-wall  to  Charles  II.,  as  he  walked  in  St.  James's  Park.  Sir  Walter 
Scott  stayed  at  No.  23,  the  house  of  his  son-in-law  Lockhart,  in  1826-27. 

The  eastern  portion  of  the  street,  between  Cockspur  Street  and 
Trafalgar  Square,  is  called  Pall  Mall  East.    Here,  nearly  opposite 


The  West  End.  21.  YORK  COLUMN.  261 

the  eomei  of  the  Hatma&kbt  (where  Addison  once  resided),  is  a 
bronze  statue  of  Oeorge  III.,  by  Wyait,  erected  in  1837.  On  the  N. 
side  of  Pall  Mall  East  are  the  Royal  Society  of  Painters  in  Water 
Colours  (No.  5a)  and  the  United  University  Club.  The  latter  is  entered 
from  Suffolk  St.,  at  No.  23  in  which  Richard  Oobden  died  in  1866 
(tablet).  Farther  to  the  W.  in  Pall  Mall,  at  the  S.W.  corner  of  Hay- 
market,  rises  the  large  Carlton  Hotel  (;p.  3),  on  the  site  of  the  Opera 
House  demolished  in  1893.  The  N.  part  of  the  same  block,  facing 
Hay  market,  is  occupied  by  His  Majesty's  Theatre  (p.  46),  opposite 
which  is  theHaymarket  Theatre  (p.  45).  Then  in  Pall  Mall,  at  the 
corner  of  Waterloo  Place,  is  the  United  Service  Club  (No.  116). 

To  the  N.  of  Waterloo  Place  (PI.  R,  26 ;  JF)  Is  Regent  Street 
(p.  267),  leading  to  Piccadilly.  In  the  centre  of  the  place  is  the 
*Cbimban  Monumbnt,  erected,  from  a  design  by  Bell,  to  the  memory 
of 'the  2162  officers  and  soldiers  of  the  Guards,  who  fell  in  the 
Russian  war.  On  a  granite  pedestal  is  a  figure  of  Victory  with 
laurel  wreaths ;  below,  in  front,  three  guardsmen ;  behind,  a  trophy 
of  guns  captured  at  Sebastopol.  On  the  sides  are  inscribed  the 
names  of  Alma,  Inkerman,  and  Sebastopol. — In  the  S.  part  of  the 
place  or  square  are  five  monuments.  In  the  centre  is  an  equestrian 
statue  of  Lord  Napier  of  Magdala  (1810-90),  by  Boehm.  To  the 
left  is  a  bronze  statue  ot  Colin  Campbell,  Lord  Clyde,  Field-Marshal 
(d.  1863),  the  conqueror  of  Lucknow,  by  Maroehetti,  Adjacent  is 
a  similar  monument  (by  Boehm)  to  Lord  Lawrence  (d.  1879),  ruler 
of  the  PunjSib  during  the  Sepoy  Mutiny  of  1857  and  Viceroy  of  In- 
dia from  1864  to  1869,  erected  in  1882  by  his  fellow-subjects,  Brit- 
ish and  Indian.  —  To  the  right,  opposi'te,  is  the  bronze  statue  of 
Sir  John  FrarMin,  by  Noble,  erected  by  Parliament  Ho  the  great 
arctic  navigator  and  his  brave  companions  who  sacrificed  their 
lives  in  completing  the  discovery  of  the  North  West  Passage  A.  D. 
1847-48'.  To  the  S.  of  this  statue  is  a  bronze  figure  of  Field- 
Marshal  Sir  John  Fox  Burgoyne  (d.  1871),  by  Boehm. 

The  broad  flight  of  steps  at  the  S.  end  of  Waterloo  Place, 
known  as  Waterloo  or  Duke  of  Tories  Steps,  descends  to  St.  James's 
Park.  At  the  top  of  the  steps  rises  the  York  Crolunm,  a  granite 
column  of  the  Tuscan  order,  124  ft.  in  height,  designed  by  Wyatt, 
and  erected  In  1833  (no  admission).  It  is  surmounted  by  a  bronze 
statue  of  the  Duke  of  York  (second  son  of  George  III.),  by  West- 
maeott.  —  To  the  W.  of  the  column,  in  Carlton  House  Terrace  (No.  9), 
is  the  residence  of  the  German  ambassador,  formerly  known  as 
Prussia  House. 

Carlton  House,  the  site  of  which  is  occupied  by  Waterloo  Place,  was 
built  in  1709  for  Henry  Boyle,  Lord  Carlton,  and  was  boaght  in  1732  by 
the  Prince  of  Wales.  It  was  afterwards  the  residence  of  the  Prince-Regent 
(later  George  IV.),  but  was  pulled  down  in  1827.  Its  columns  are  now 
said  to  adorn  the  facade  of  the  National  Gallery  (p.  165). 

Farther  on  in  Pall  Mall  (S.  side)  is  a  series  of  palatial  club 
houses,  the  oldest  of  which  dates  from  1829  (see  also]  p.  74). 


262  21.  MARLBOROUGH  HOUSE.     TheWestEnd. 

At  the  corner  on  the  left  is  the  Athenaeum  Club  (vith  a  frieze  re- 
producing that  of  the  Parthenon)  ;  then  the  Travellers^  Club  (with 
its  best  fa^de  towards  the  garden),  Reform  Club,  and  Carlton  Club 
(with  polished  granite  pillars ;  an  imitation  of  SansoTino's  Library 
of  St.  Mark  at  Venice). 

John  St.  leads  from  this  point  to  the  N.  to  St.  James's  Square  (PI.  R, 
22,  26;  /Fj,  which  is  embellished  with  an  Equestrian  Statue  of  William  III., 
in  bronze,  by  Bacon,  erected  in  1806.  The  square  has  been  an  aristocratic 
place  of  residence  ever  since  it  was  first  laid  out  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II. 
At  the  S.E.  corner  (l^o.  31)  is  Norfolk  Bouse  (Duke  of  Norfolk),  built 
1748-52;  in  an  older  building,  behind,  George  III.  was  born  in  1733,  his 
parents  having  been  turned  out  of  St.  James's  Palace  by  George  II.  Ad- 
joining, to  the  N.,  is  London  House  (rebuilt  1820),  the  official  town-resi- 
dence of  the  bishops  of  London  since  1771,  but  seldom  occupied  (eomp. 
p.  886).  Lord  Chesterfield  (1694-1773)  was  born  in  the  house  originally 
occupying  this  site.  Next  door  is  the  Earl  of  Derby's  mansion.  No.  8. 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  square,  was  the  home  and  depdt  of  Josiah  Wedgwood 
the  Younger  from  1796  till  1830.  No.  10  has  been  the  residence  of  the 
elder  Pitt  (1759-62).  Lady  Blessington  (1820-29),  Lord  Derby  (1837-54),  and 
Mr.  Gladstone  (1890).  At  No.  13  (now  the  Windham  Club)  Lord  Ellen- 
borough  died  in  1818.  No.  14  (rebuilt  1898)  is  the  London  Library  (p.  65). 
The  East  India  United  Service  Club  (No.  16)  replaces  the  house  in  which 
Queen  Caroline  lived  during  part  of  her  trial  (1820),  while  Lord  Castlereagh, 
then  Foreign  Secretary,  lived  next  door  (No.  18).  No.  21,  now  occupied 
by  the  Departmsntal  Committee  on  Agricultural  Education,  is  called 
Winchester  Souse,  because  from  1829  till  1875  it  was  the  London  residence 
of  the  bishops  of  Winchester.  It  was  occupied  in  1676-78  by  Arabella 
Churchill,  mistress  of  James  II.  The  adjoining  house,  now  incorporated 
with  the  Army  and  Navy  Club  (see  below),  was  the  residence  of  Mary 
Davis,  the  actress,  in  1676-87.  The  S.  side  of  the  square  is  mainly  oc- 
cupied by  the  N.  front  of  the  Junior  Carlton  Club  (see  below).  —  See 
^History  of  St.  Jameses  Square**,  by  Arthur  Dasent  (1895). 

Adjoining  the  Carlton  Club,  on  the  S.  side  of  Pall  Mall,  stood 
the  old  War  Office  (oomp.  p.  212),  the  central  portion  of  which  was 
the  Ordnance  Office,  built  in  the  reign  of  George  III.  The  build- 
ing has  been  pulled  down  to  make  way  for  a  new  club-house  for 
the  Royal  AutomobiU  Club  (p.  75).  Opposite,  on  the  right  side  of 
the  street,  are  the  Junior  Carlton  Club  and  the  Army  and  Navy  Club 
(known  as  *the  Rag'). 

Farther  on,  at  the  W.  end  of  Pall  Mall,  are  the  Oxford  and  Cam- 
bridge Club  (No.  68),  the  Guards'  Club  (No.  70),  and  the  New  Oxford 
and  Cambridge  Club  (No.  71)  on  the  left,  and  the  Marlborough 
Club  (No.  52)  on  the  right.  Marlborough  House  (PI.  R,  22;  iV), 
on  the  S..  side  of  Pall  Mall,  was  erected  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  in 
1710,  for  the  first  Duke  of  Marlborough  (d.  1722  at  Windsor),  and 
his  Duchess  Sarah  (d.  here  1744),  who  lived  In  such  a  magnificent 
style  as  entirely  to  eclipse  the  court  of  *Neighbour  George'  in 
St.  James's  Palace.  Prince  Leopold  of  Saxe-Coburg  (d.  1865),  hus- 
band of  Princess  Charlotte  (d.  1817),  was  tenant  of  Marlborough 
House  from  1817  (when  part  of  the  crown-lease  on  which  the  property 
was  held  terminated)  until  he  accepted  the  throne  of  Belgium  in 
1831.  Marlborough  House  finally  reverted  to  Government  in  1835. 
The  house  was  afterwards  occupied  by  the  Queen  Dowager  Adelaide, 


The  West  End.  *li.  PICCADILLY.  263 

ftabsequently  used  as  a  picture-gallery,  and  from  1863  till  1902 
was  the  residence  of  King  Edward  VII.  while  Prince  of  Wales.  The 
present  Prince  of  Wales  took  np  his  abode  there  in  1903.  It  has 
been  remodelled  and  considerably  enlarged  since  1850.  The  walls 
of  the  principal  staircases  are  embellished  with  mural  paintings  by 
La  Guerre,  representing  the  battles  of  the  great  Duke  of  Marl- 
borough. The  house  and  grounds  occupy  about  4^/4  acres.  The 
chapel  on  the  side  next  St.  James's  Palace,  built  for  the  Roman 
Catholic  services  of  Queen  Henrietta  Maria,  wife  of  Charles  I.,  and 
afterwards  (until  1901)  known  as  the  German  Chapel  Royal,  is  now 
called  Marlborough  House  Chapel, 

Serriees  are  held  here  on  San.  at  8.30,  990,  and  10  a.m.,  at  noon,  and 
at  5.30  p.m  ,  to  which  the  public  are  freely  admitted  except  when  the  court 
is  in  London  or  Parliament  sitting.  At  these  times  tickets  for  the  services 
at  10  a.m.  and  noon  must  be  obtained  from  the  sub-dean.  A  Danish  service 
is  held  on  Sun.  at  4.30p.m. 

To  the  W.  of  Marlborough  House  Chapel,  and  separated  from 
it  by  a  narrow  carriage-way  only,  is  8t,  James's  Palace  (p.  321), 
past  the  N.  front  of  which  Cleveland  Row  leads  toStafford  House 
(p.  333)  and  Bridgewater  House  (p.  333). 

In  St.  Jambs's  Stbbbt,  which  here  leads  N.  to  Piccadilly,  are 
situated  the  Thatched  House  Club  (No.  86),  the  Conservative  Club 
(No.  74),  Arthur's  Club  (No.  69),  Brooks's  Club  (No.  60),  BoodU's 
Club  (No.  28;  founded  about  1760),  New  University  Club  (No.  67), 
White's  Club  (No.  37 ;  the  bow  window  of  which  has  figured  in 
so  many  novels),  the  Devonshire  Club  (No.  50;  formerly  Crock" 
ford' 8 f  notorious  for  its  high  play  under  the  Regency),  and  others. 
In  St.  James's  Place,  to  the  left,  are  Spencer  House  (Earl  Spencer) 
and  the  house  (No.  22)  occupied  by  Samuel  Rogers,  banker  and 
poet,  from  1800  till  his  death  in  1865,  and  the  scene  of  his  famous 
literary  breakfasts.  To  the  right,  in  King  Street,  is  St.  James's 
Theatre  (p.  46).  Willis's  Restauranty  a  little  farther  along  King 
Street,  occupies  the  site  of  rooms  which  were  down  to  1863,  under 
the  name  of  Almach^s  (from  the  original  proprietor,  1765),  famous 
for  the  aristocratic  and  exclusive  balls  held  in  them.  King  Street 
also  contains  Christie  and  Hanson's  Auction  Rooms  (No.  8),  cel- 
ebrated for  sales  of  valuable  art  collections.  The  chief  sales  take 
place  on  Saturdays,  in  the  Season.  —  At  No.  4  Bennett  Street,  to 
the  left,  Byron  wrote  'The  Bride  of  Abydos'. 

Piccadilly  (PI.  R,  18, 22 ;  /,  /V),  extending  from  Haymarket  to 
Hyde  Park  Corner,  is  nearly  1  M.  in  length.  St.  James's  St.  joins 
it  a  little  to  the  E.  of  its  central  point.  The  eastern  portion  (which 
we  follow,  see  p.  264)  is  one  of  the  chief  business-streets  of  the 
West  End.  The  western  half,  which  has  been  widened  since  1902, 
is  bordered  on  the  S.  by  the  Oreen  Park  (p.  325)  and  contains  a 
number  of  aristocratic  residences  and  fashionable  clubs,  while  the 
streets  diverging  to  the  N.  offer  some  of  the  most  expensive  lodg- 
ings in  London. 


264  21.  ROYAL  SOCIETY.         The  West  End. 

At  tlie  corner  of  Arlington  St.,  to  the  W.  of  St.  James's  St., 
Is  tlie  large  Ritz  Hotel.  No.  5  Arlington  St.  was  once  occupied  by 
Sir  Robert  Walpole,  and  No.  9  by  Charles  James  Fox.  —  Among 
the  clubs  on  the  N.  side  of  this  part  of  Piccadilly  are  the  Naval  and 
Military  (94  j  formerly  the  house  of  Lord  Palmerston).  Junior  Naval 
and  Military  (96),  Badminton  (100),  Isthmian  (105j,  8t.  Jame^s 
(.106),  Savile  (107),  Junior  Athenaeum  (116),  Cavalry  (127),  and 
Lyceum  (123).  Lord  Byron  passed  the  first  part  of  his  married  life 
at  139  Piccadilly,  where  his  daughter  Ada  was  born  in  Dec,  1816. 
At  Hyde  Park  Corner  is  Apsley  House  (p.  335).  —  Fanny  Bumey 
lived  at  11  Bolton  St.  and  Edmund  Kean  at  No.  12  Olarges  St. 
There  are  stations  of  the  Piccadilly  Tube  (p.  35)  in  Dover  St.  (PI. 
R,  22;  IV)  and  Down  St.  (PI.  R,  18;  IV), 

On  entering  Piccadilly  from  St.  James's  Street,  we  turn  to  the 
right.  On  the  opposite  (N.)  side  are  Old  and  New  Bond  Streets 
(p.  270),  leading  to  Oxford  Street.  Between  Old  Bond  Street  and 
Sackville  Street  rises  New  Burlington  House  (PI.  R,  22;  /),  to  the 
W.  of  which  is  the  Burlington  Arcade  (p.  63).  Old  Burlington  House, 
built  in  1695-1743  by  Richard,  Lord  Burlington,  with  the  assistance 
of  the  architect  Campbell,  was  purchased  by  Government  in  1854  for 
the  sum  of  140,000i.  along  with  its  gardens,  on  which  various  new 
edifices  have  been  built.  The  incongruous  top  story  and  the  pre- 
sent facade  of  the  old  building  are  new  also.  Nearest  Piccadilly  is 
a  building  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style,  completed  in  1872  from 
designs  by  Banks  and  Barry y  and  occupied  by  several  learned  so- 
cieties, to  which  the  rooms  are  granted  by  Government  rent-free ; 
in  the  E.  vring  are  the  Royal,  Geological,  and  Chemical  Societies , 
and  in  the  W.  the  Antiquarian  (vflth  a  collection  of  paintings, 
chiefly  old  portraits).  Astronomical,  and  Linnaean.  The  British 
Academy  (p.  74)  meets  in  the  Antiquarian  Society's  rooms. 

The  Boyal  Society,  or  Academy  of  Science,  the  most  important 
of  the  learned  bodies  of  Great  Britain,  was  founded  in  1660,  and 
received  its  charter  of  incorporation  from  Charles  II.  three  years 
later.  As  early  as  1645,  however,  its  germ  existed  in  the  meeting 
of  a  few  men  of  learning,  far  from  the  turmoil  of  the  Civil  War,  to 
discuss  subjects  relating  to  the  physical  and  exact  sciences.  The 
first  number  of  its  famous  Philosophical  Transactions  appeared  in 
1665.  It  now  comprises  about  520  members  (including  50  foreign 
members),  each  of  whom  is  entitled  to  append  to  his  name  the  let- 
ters F.  R.  S.  (Fellow  of  the  Royal  Society).  The  Library  of  the  society 
consists  of  about  50,000  vols,  and  5000  MSS.  The  rooms  contain 
portraits  and  busts  of  celebrated  Fellows,  including  Sir  Christopher 
Wren,  Sir  Isaac  Newton,  Robert  Boyle,  Halley,  Sir  Humphry  Davy, 
Watt,  and  Sir  William  Herschel ;  also  a  telescope  which  belonged 
to  Newton,  and  the  MS.  of  his  Thilosophiffl  Naturalis  Principia 
Mathematica';  and  the  original  model  of  Davy's  safety-lamp. 


TheWcBtEnd.        21.  ROYAL  ACADEMY.  265 

The  Copley  Hedal  and  two  Royal  Medals  are  awarded  annual]  v  by  the 
■oeiety  for  scientific  eminence,  and  the  Davy  Medal  for  chemical  inveat- 
igation.  The  Bumford  and  Darwinian  Medals  are  awarded  biennially  for 
investigations  in  light  and  heat  and  in  biology  respeetively.  Besides  the 
Tramactiom  the  society  also  issues  its  Proeeedinffs  annni^ly.  and  a  Co- 
taloffiie  of  Bcientijle  Paptrt  published  in  all  parts  of  the  world. 

An  arcade  leads  tbrough  the  building  into  the  inner  court.  On 
the  N.  Bide  is  the  exhibition  building  of  the  Boyal  Academy  of 
Artf  (founded  in  1768),  in  the  Renaissance  style,  erected  by 
Smirke  in  1868-69.  At  the  top  of  the  fa^de  are  9  statues  of  cel- 
ebrated artists:  Phidias,  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Flaxman,  Raphael, 
Michael  Angelo,  Titian,  Reynolds,  Wren,  and  Wykeham.  The  Ex- 
hibition of  the  Royal  Academy  (transferred  in  1869  from  Trafalgar 
Square  to  Piccadilly),  which  takes  place  here  every  year  from  May 
to  the  beginning  of  August,  attracts  immense  numbers  of  yisitors 
(admission  Is.,  catalogue  is.).  It  consists  of  paintings  and  sculp- 
tures by  modem  (mainly)  British  artists,  which  j^ust  have  been 
finished  during  the  previous  year  and  not  exhfflted  elsewhere 
before.  The  ^Private  View'  of  the  Exhibition,  held  by  invitation  of 
the  Academicians  before  it  is  thrown  open  to  the  public,  is  always 
attended  by  the  cream  of  society  and  is  one  of  the  events  of  the 
London  Season.  The  'Academy  Dinner'  held  about  the  same  time 
is  also  a  highly  important  social  function.  The  Academy  organizes 
every  winter  a  loan-exhibition  of  works  of  old  masters  or  of  deceased 
modern  artists.  The  society  consists  of  40  Royal  Academicians,  30 
Associates,  and  2  Associate  Engravers.  —  A  staircase  in  the  comer  to 
the  right  ascends  to  the  Gibson  and  Diploma  Galleries  (open  daily, 
11-4,  free),  which  contain  some  valuable  works  of  early  art,  the 
diploma  pictures  presented  by  Academicians  on  their  election,  and 
the  Gibson  collection  of  sculpture.  Among  the  ancient  works  are  : 
♦Mary  with  Jesus  and  St.  John,  a  relief  by  Michael  Angelo ;  'Ma- 
donna, Holy  Child,  St.  Anne,  and  St.  John,  a  celebrated  cartoon  by 
Leonardo  da  Vinci,  executed  in  1503  for  the  church  Dell'Annun- 
ziata  at  Florence ;  Copy  of  Leonardo's  Last  Supper ,  by  his  pupil 
Marco  da  Oggionno^  from  which  Morghen's  engraving  was  taken ; 
Woman  at  a  well(Temperance?),  ascribed  to  Oiorgione,  but  considered 
by  Frizzoni  to  be  an  early  work  of  Seb.  del  Piombo.  The  diploma 
works  Include  good  specimens  by  Reynolds  and  Wilkie.  Here  also 
is  preserved  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds's  Sitters'  Chair^  which  passed  by 
purchase  into  the  possession  of  each  successive  president  of  the 
Academy  until  it  was  presented  to  the  Academy  In  1878  by  Lord 
Leighton.   The  Library  is  on  the  first  floor. 

At  the  back  of  the  Academy,  and  facing  Burlington  Gardens,  is 
another  Renaissance  structure,  erected  in  1869  from  designs  by 
Pennethome  and  long  occupied  by  London  University.  In  1900  the 
offices  of  the  University  were  transferred  to  the  Imperial  Institute 
(p.  341),  and  In  1902  the  building  was  handed  over  to  the  Civil 
Service  Commission. 


266  21.  PICCADILLY  CIRCUS.     The  West  End. 

The  effective  facade  is  decorated  with  a  series  of  statues.  Above  the 
portico  are  those  of  Milton,  ^Newton,  Harvey,  and  Bentham,  by  Durham ^ 
over  the  cornice  in  the  centre,  Plato,  Archimedes,  and  Justinian,  by 
Woodington^  and  Galen,  Cicero,  and  Aristotle,  by  WeitmacoU;  in  the  W. 
wing,  Locke,  Bacon,  and  Adam  Smith,  by  Thted^  and  Hume,  Hunter,  and 
Sir  Humphry  Davy,  oy  Noble;  in  the  E.  wing,  Galileo,  Laplace,  and  Goethe, 
by  Wyon^  and  Cuvier,  Leibnitz,  and  Linnseus,  by  Maedotpell.  A  marble 
statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  by  Bo«hm,  was  erected  here  in  1889. 

Close  by,  at  1  Savile  Row,  to  the  N.E.,  is  the  Boyal  Qeograph- 
ieal  Society  (sec,  Dr.  J.  Scott  Keltie).  Richard  Brinsley  Sheridan 
died  at  17  Savile  Row  in  1816,  and  Grote,  the  historian,  died  at 
No.  12  in  1871.  —  In  Albemarie  Street,  to  the  W.,  beyond  Bond 
Street  (p.  270),  is  the  Royal  Inatitutionj  founded  in  1799  for  the 
piomotion  and  teaching  of  science,  with  libiary,  reading-room, 
laboratories,  and  weekly  lectures  from  Christmas  to  Midsummer. 
The  admirably  equipped  Davy -Faraday  Research  Laboratory,  at 
No.  20,  presented  to  the  Royal  Institution  by  Dr.  Ludwig  Mond, 
was  opened  in  Acember,  1896.  The  Royal  Asiatic  Society  (No.  22) 
has  a  library  containing  about  12,000  vols,  and  1240  MSS.  (open 
11-4,  on  Sat.  11-2).  No.  50,  the  house  of  Mr.  John  Murray,  the 
publisher,  contains  portraits  of  Scott,  Byron,  "Washington  Irving 
(Wilkie),  and  other  men  of  letters  ;  also  Hogarth's  Scene  from  the 
'Beggars'  Opera'. 

On  the  N.  side  of  Piccadilly,  a  little  beyond  Burlington  House, 
is  the  Albany,  let  out  in  chambers,  and  numbering  'Monk'  Lewis, 
Canning,  Byron  (No.  2a),  Bulwer  Lytton,  and  Macaulay  (No.  1e, 
second  floor)  among  quondam  residents.  The  last  lived  here  for 
15  years  and  wrote  here  the  first  volumes  of  his  'History  of  England*. 

St.  Jameg*B  Church  (PI.  R,  22 ;  /),  adjoining  Princes'  Restaurant 
(p.  12)  on  the  S.  side  of  Piccadilly,  built  by  Wren  in  1682-84,  and 
considered  (as  to  the  interior)  one  of  his  finest  works,  contains  a 
marble  font  by  Orinling  Gibbons,  who  also  executed  the  handsome 
foliage  over  the  altar.  The  stained-glass  windows,  representing  the 
Passion  and  other  scenes,  are  modern.  The  vestry  is  hung  with 
.  portraits  of  former  rectors,  three  of  whom  (Tenison,  Wake,  and 
Seeker)  became  archbishops.  —  Farther  on,  on  the  same  side,  we 
pass  the  N.  facade  of  the  Museum  of  Geology  (p.  268).  Opposite, 
on  the  N.  side  of  Piccadilly,  on  the  site  of  St.  James's  Hall  (opened 
in  1858,  pulled  down  in  1905),  long  the  most  noted  ooncert-hall  in 
London,  rises  the  huge  Piccadilly  Hotel  (opened  in  1908),  with  an 
imposing  colonnade  on  the  first  floor. 

We  next  reach  Piccadilly  GircuB  (PI.  R,  26 ;  J),  a  busy  centre 
of  traffic  at  the  intersection  of  Regent  St.  (p.  267),  whence  the  wide 
Shaftesbury  Avenue  (p.  165)  leads  to  the  N.E.  The  triangle  in 
the  centre  of  the  Circus  is  occupied  by  a  Memorial  Fountain  to 
Lord  ShafUsbury  (d.  1885),  by  Alfred  Gilbert,  A.  R.  A.,  unveiled  in 
1893  and  adorned- with  eight  plaques  of  scenes  from  the  philan- 
thropist's life.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  Circus  is  the  Criterion  Theatre 


The  West  End.    21.  LEIOESTEB  SQUARE,  267 

(p.  45)  and  Restaurant  (p.  12),  adjoined  by  the  Piccadilly  Circus 
Station  of  the  Baker  St.  &  Waterloo  and  the  Piccadilly  Tabes  (pp.  34, 
36).  Farther  on  is  the  Haymarket  (p.  261),  where  PiccadiUy  comes 
to  an  end. 

Coventry  Street^  the  E.  prolongation  of  Pieeadilly,  containing 
the  Prince  of  Wales  Theatre  (p.  46),  leads  on  to  Leieeiter  Bqvare 
(Pi.  B,  27;  /),  adorned  in  1874  with  flower-beds  and  a  marble 
statue  of  Shalupearej  in  the  centre,  bearing  the  inscription,  ^There 
is  no  darkness  bnt  ignorance*;  at  the  base  are  four  water-sponting  V 
dolphins.  The  corners  of  the  garden  are  embellished  with  marble 
basts  of  Reynolds y  Hunter,  Hogarth,  and  Newton  (see  below).  After 
the  reTocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes  (1685)  this  neighbourhood 
became  a  favourite  resort  of  the  more  aristocratic  French  Protestant 
exiles,  and  it  is  still  largely  inhabited  by  French  residents.  Down 
to  the  beginning  of  the  19th  century  the  open  space  in  the  centre 
was  a  frequent  resort  of  duellists.  —  The  Alhambra  Theatre  (p.  48), 
on  the  E.  side,  burned  down  in  1882,  was  rebuilt  in  1883-84.  The 
site  of  SaYile  House,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  square,  is  occupied  by 
the  Empire  Theatre  (p.  48). 

Ilogaith  lived  at  Ko.  80  Leicester  Square;  Reynolds  at  Ko.  47;  Hunter 
in  the  house  next  Hogarth's.  Sir  Isaac  Newton  dwelt  from  1710  to  1727 
at  Ko.  86  St.  Martin's  St.  (to  the  S.  of  the  square),  a  house  afterwards  oc- 
cupied by  Dr.  Burney,  in  which  Fanny  Bumey  wrote  ^Evelina\  —  Leicester 
House  and  Savile  House,  once  s'.tuated  in  the  square,  were  occupied  by 
members  of  the  royal  family  during  the  first  half  of  the  18th  century;  and 
Peter  the  Great  was  entertained  at  Savile  House  by  the  Marquis  of  Car- 
marthen (1698). 

The  line  of  Goventry  Street  is  continued  on  the  other  side  of 
the  square  by  Granbourn  Street,  in  which  are  Daly's  Theatre  (p.  45) 
and  the  Hippodrome  (p.  48),  leading  to  Charing  Gross  Road  (p.  164). 
The  Reynolds  Galleries,  in  Granbourn  Street,  occupy  a  house  in 
which  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds  lived  for  several  years. 


22.   Begent  Street.    Oxford  Street.    Holbom. 

Oeological  Museum.    University  College.   St.  Pancras'  Church. 
Foundling  Hospital. 

Begent  Street  (PI.  R,  23,  26;  i),  one  of  the  finest  streets  in 
London,  and  containing  a  large  number  of  the  best  shops,  was  laid 
out  by  Nash  in  1813,  for  the  purpose  of  connecting  Garlton  House 
(p.  261),  the  residence  of  the  Prince  Regent,  with  Regent's  Park. 
It  is  1  M.  in  length,  and  extends  from  Waterloo  Place,  Pall  Mall 
(p.  261),  across  Oxford  Street,  to  Portland  Place.  To  the  right  (E.),  at 
the  comer  of  Gharles  Street,  stands  the  Junior  United  Service  Club, 
and  on  the  same  side  is  the  Raleigh  Club  TNo.  16).  Grossing  Jermyn 
St.  we  now  reach  Piccadilly  Circus  (p.  286). 


268  22.  GEOLOGICAL  MUSEUM.     TheWestEnd. 

The  Moseum  of  Praetieal  O-eolog^y  erected  by  James  Pennethome 
in  1850,  ift  entered  from  Jermyn  Street  (Nob.  28-32;  to  the  W.); 
admission,  see  p.  82.  The  building  contains,  besides  the  geological 
mnsenm,  a  library  and  the  offices  of  the  Geological  Sarvey. 

The  Hall  contains  boats  of  celebrated  geologists :  on  the  right,  Back- 
land,  Playfair,  Greenoagh,  Forbes,  William  Smith,  and  Jukes;  on  the 
left,  Murchison,  De  la  Beche,  Button,  Hall,  Sedgwick,  and  Bamsay.  At 
one  side  of  the  hall  is  a  copy  of  the  Farnese  Hercules  in  Portland  lime- 
stone. Then  English,  Irish,  and  Scotch  granite;  alabaster;  Portland 
•  limestone  from  the  island  of  Portland .  near  Weymouth  in  Dorsetshire ; 
Derbyshire,  Staffordshire,  and  Irish  marbles ;  auriferous  quartz;  malachite; 
a  large  block  of  solid  copper,  from  Cornwall;  lode  with  galena  and  pyrites ; 
and  numerous  rarieties  of  limestone,  sandstone,  granite,  etc  These  are 
partly  in  the  rough,  and  partly  polished  and  cut  in  the  shape  of  cubes, 
slabs,  tablets,  or  short  columns.  The  mosaic  parement  in  the  middle  of 
the  hall  deserves  notice.  The  six  table -cases  contain  part  of  a  large 
mineralogical  collection  bequeathed  by  Mr.  Henry  Ludlam. 

On  the  First  Floor  we  first  observe  a  large  vase  of  Siberian  aven- 
turine  quarts,  a  gift  to  Sir  Roderick  Murchison  from  the  Emperor  of 
Russia;  a  geological  model  of  London  and  its  vicinity;  a  gold  snuff-box 
with  enamel  portrait,  given  to  Murchison  by  Alexander  n.  of  Russia;  a  steel 
salver,  inlaid  with  gold,  presented  by  the  Russian  Administration  of  Mines 
to  Murchison.  On  the  S.  side  is  a  collection  of  rock-specimens.  Then,  in 
table-cases  at  the  sides  of  the  room,  iron,  steel,  and  copper,  at  different 
stages  of  their  manufacture.  The  cases  arranged  in  the  form  of  a  horseshoe 
in  the  middle  of  the  room  contain  the  collection  of  non-metallic  minerals : 
here  are  seen  many  beautiful  kinds  of  crystallised  minerals,  particularly 
precious  stones,  from  quartz  nodules  with  brilliant  crystals  in  the  interior 
up  to  the  most  exquisitely  polished  jewels.  Models  of  the  largest  known 
diamonds,  such  as  the  Koh-i-noor  and  the  Regent  Diamond,  are  exhibited 
in  Case  A  (on  the  E.  side).  The  metalliferous  minerals,  or  ores,  occupy 
the  wall-cases.  Other  cases  are  fiUed  with  agates,  some  of  which  are 
artificially  coloured,  and  with  various  minerals,  such  a^  Australian  gold, 
including  a  model  of  a  huge  nugget  of  gold,  weighing  2000  oz.  (value  8376^). 

The  two  upper  galleries,  running  round  the  hall,  contain  an  unrivalled 
collection  of  British  fossils,  which  are  arranged  in  stratigraphical  sequence, 
so  as  to  illustrate  the  progress  of  life  in  the  British  area  throughout 
geological  time. 

Beyond  Piccadilly  Gircns  Regent  Street  describes  a  cnrve  to 
the  W.,  forming  the  so-called  Quadrant.  Farther  on,  to  the  left, 
beyond  the  New  Gallery  (No.  121 ;  p.  50),  we  pass  New  Bnrlington 
Street,  Conduit  Street,  and  Maddox  Street.  No.  37  Condnit  St.  was 
the  residence  of  George  Canning. 

Hanover  Street  and  Princess  Street  both  lead  to  the  W.  to 
Hanoybb  SauARB  (PI.  R,  23 ;  i),  which  is  embellished  with  a  bronze 
statue  of  William  Pitt  (d.  1806),  by  Chantrey.  On  the  W.  side 
of  the  square  is  the  Oriental  Club;  and  at  the  N.W.  angle,  in 
Tenterden  Street,  the  Royal  Academy  of  Music.  In  George  Street, 
leading  out  of  the  square  on  the  S.,  is  St.  George  i  Church,  built  by 
James  (1713-24),  with  a  classic  portico,  and  three  stained-glass 
windows,  made  in  Malines  about  1520  and  brought  to  England  early 
in  the  19th  century.  It  has  long  been  a  favourite  resort  for  fashionable 
weddings.  Lady  Mary  Wortley  Montagu  died  in  George  Street 
in  1762. 


TheWestEnd.        !i2.  OXFORD  OIKCUS.  269 

The  interseetioii  of  Regent  Street  with  Oxford  Street  (see  below) 
is  called  Oxford  Cireui  (PL  R,  23 ;  i),  or,  more  of Acially,  Regent 
CirciUy  Oxford  Street,  Immediately  to  the  right,  on  the  S.  side  of 
Oxford  St.,  is  the  Oxford  Circus  Station  of  the  Baker  St.  &  Waterloo 
Railway  (p.  34),  adjoined  by  that  of  the  Central  London  Railway 
(p.  34).  From  this  point  Regent  St.  runs  to  the  N.  to  Langham 
Place.  Ou  the  left  (Nob.  307-311)  is  the  Polytechnic  Young  Mens 
Christian  Institute,  which  has  occupied  since  1882  the  old  Poly- 
technic Institution.  The  Institute  has  numerous  technical  and  other 
classes  (11,000  students),  reading-rooms,  a  gymnasium,  etc.  The 
good  genius  of  the  institution  was  Mr.  Quiutin  Hogg  (1845-1903), 
who  spent  150, OCO^  upon  it  and  is  commemorated  by  a  monument 
at  the  S.  end  of  Langham  Place. 

In  Margaret  Siriet,  the  second  cross  street  beyond  Oxford  Street,  to 
the  E.  (r.)  of  BAg^nt  Street,  is  All  Saints'  Church  (PI.  B,  24-,  /),  built  by 
Bbtterfleld  in  1850-6*^,  in  the  Early  English  style,  and  lavishly  decorated 
in  the  interior  with  marble  and  gilding.  The  B.  wall  of  the  choir  is 
frescoed  by  Dyce  in  the  style  of  early  Christian  art.    The  spire  is  327  ft.  high. 

—  At  TXo.  74a  is  the  Farket  Jiiueum  of  Hygiene  (open  on  week-days,  lO-ti). 

From  the  N.  end  of  Regent  St.  Mortimer  St.  leads  to  the  £.  to 
Great  Portland  St.,  in  which,  a  little  to  the  N.,  is  8t,  James's  HoU 
(PI.  R,24,  /;  p.  50),  a  large  concert-hall  opened  in  1908  and  named 
after  the  former  hall  of  that  name  (p.  266).  To  the  W.  Cayendlsh  St. 
leads  to  Oavbndish  Squabb,  which  contains  an  equestrian  statue  in 
marble  of  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  (the  victor  atOullodenin  1746), 
by  Cheu)^  and  a  bronze  statue  of  Lord  Oeorge  Bentinck  (d.  1848),  by 
Campbell,  Lord  Byron  was  bom  in  1788  at  24  Holies  Street,  be- 
tween GaYendlsh  Square  and  Oxford  Street ;  the  house,  which  has 
since  been  rebuilt,  is  now  marked  by  a  bust  of  the  poet.  —  Harley 
Street  and  the  district  to  the  W.,  see  p.  286. 

The  line  of  Reirent  St.  is  continued  to  the  N.  by  the  curving 
Lanobam  Place  (PL  R,  24;  i).  To  the  right  in  this  street  are 
81,  George's  HaU  (p,  49)  and  the  handsome  Queens  HaU  (p.  49). 
The  latter  has  accommodation  for  3000  persons ;  the  ceiling  is 
painted  by  Garp^gat.  Farther  on  is  All  Souls'  Churchy  erected  by  Nash. 
The  large  building  on  the  other  side  is  the  Langham  Hotel  (p.  6). 

From  this  point  Portland  Placb,  one  of  the  widest  streets  in 
London  (120  ft.),  with  the  Chinese  Embassy  (No.  49),  leads  to  Park 
Crescent,  Park  Square,  Marylebone  Road,  and  Regent's  ParJfc  (p.  285). 

—  At  No   38  Charlotte  St.  (now  110  Hallam  St.)  to  the' right  of 
Portland  Place,  Dante  Gabriel  Rossetti  (1828-82)  was  born  (tablet). 

Oxford  Street  (PL  R,  19,  23,  27;  /,  //),  the  principal  artery 
of  traffic  between  theN.W.  quarter  of  London  and  the  City,  extends 
from  the  Marble  Arch  (at  the  N.E.  corner  of  Hyde  Park,  p.  326)  to 
Holbom,  a  distance  of  1^2  M.  The  E.  portion  of  this  imposing 
street  contains  a  number  of  the  most  important  shops  in  London, 
and  presents  a  scene  of  immense  traffic  and  activity ;  while  the  W. 
end,  with  the  adjoining  streets  and  squares  (particularly  Park  Lane, 


270  22.  OXFORD  STREET.        The  West  End. 

Qrosrenor  Sqnare,  and  Berkeley  Square  on  the  S.  and  Portman  Square 
on  the  N.),  comprises  many  aristocratic  residences.  The  Central 
London  Railway  (stations,  see  p.  34)  rans  beneath  this  street. 

The  open  space  now  surrounding  the  Marble  Arch  is  the  point  of 
intersection  for  many  omnibus-routes.  A  little  to  theW.  Edgware 
Road  (p.  331)  diverges  to  the  N.W.  To  the  S.  runs  Park  Lane 
(p.  325).  Farther  to  the  E.  Orchard  Street  leads  to  the  N.  (left)  from 
Oxford  Street  to  Porlman  Square  (PI.  R,  19 ;  i),  and  is  continued 
thence  due  N.  by  Baker  Street  to  Baker  Street  Station  (PI.  R,  20 ; 
p.  29).  No.  15  Portman  Square  is  the  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Fife. 
The  'Blue  Stocking  Club'  met  at  Mrs.  Montagu's  (d.l  800)  in  the 
N.W.  corner  of  the  square.  Anthony  Trollope  lived  in  Montagu 
Square,  just  to  the  N.  Lower  Berkeley  Street  runs  to  the  E.  from 
Portman  Square  to  Manchester  Square  (see  below).  Adjacent,  at 
13  Mandeville  Place,  is  Trinity  College,  an  incorporated  institution 
for  the  study  of  music  and  arts. 

Duke  Street  leads  to  the  left  (N.)  from  Oxford  street,  farther  on,  to 
Manchester  Square,  on  the  N.  side  of  which  stands  Hertford  House 
(PI.  R,  20  J  i),  containing  the  Wallace  ColUction  (p.  276). 

To  the  S.  of  Oxford  Street  are  Qrosvenor  Square  (PI.  R,  19;  /) 
and  Berkeley  Square  (with  its  plane-trees ;  PI.  R,  22,  23,  7),  many 
of  the  houses  in  which  still  have  bits  of  fine  old  iron-work  in  front 
of  their  doors,  with  extinguishers  for  links  or  torches.  Horace  Wal- 
pole  died  at  11  Berkeley  Square  In  1797;  Cllve  killed  himself  at 
No.  46  in  1774.  No.  38,  now  the  town-house  of  Lord  Rosebery,  was 
the  house  from  which  the  daughter  of  Mr.  Child,  the  banker, 
eloped  with  the  Earl  of  Westmorland  In  1782,  and  was  afterwards 
the  residence  of  their  daughter  Lady  Jersey  (d.  1867)  and  her 
husband.  Pope  lived  at  No.  9  Berkeley  Street,  to  the  S.  of  Berkeley 
Square ,  and  presented  the  lease  of  it  to  Martha  Blount.  Bulwer 
Lytton  spent  his  later  years  at  No.  12  Grosvenor  Square.  At  the 
foot  of  South  Audley  Street,  which  runs  to  the  S.  from  the  S.W. 
corner  of  Grosvenor  Square,  is  Chesterfield  House  (PI.  R,  18;  JV), 
with  a  fine  marble  staircase  and  the  library  In  which  the  'Chester- 
field Letters'  were  written.  In  the  same  street  is  a  tasteful  Free 
Public  Library,  opened  In  1895.  In  Brook  Street,  which  runs  E. 
from  Grosvenor  Square  to  Hanover  Square  (p.  268),  is  a  house 
(No.  25)  distinguished  by  a  tablet  Indicating  that  Handel  used  to 
live  there. 

New  Bond  Street  (PI.  R,  23 ;  /),  which  diverges  to  the  right  (S.) 
from  Oxford  Street,  farther  on.  Is  continued  by  Old  Bond  Street  to 
Piccadilly  (p.  264).  This  thoroughfare  contains  numerous  attract- 
ive and  fashionable  shops,  the  jEolian  Hall  (No.  135),  and  sey- 
eral  picture-galleries  (comp.  p.  51).  Lord  Nelson  once  resided  at 
147  New  Bond  Street.  Sir  Humphry  Davy  U^ed  at  23  Grosvenor 
St.,  and  Lord  Brougham  occupied  4  Grafton  St.  for  thirty  years.  — 


TheWestEnd.        22.  OXFORD  STREET.  271 

Hanover  Square,  Cavendish  Square^  Regent  Street,  and  Oxford  Cireu*, 
see  pp.  268,  269.  —  In  Oxfoid  Street,  on  the  left,  farther  on,  is  the 
Ptince9$*B  Theatre  (p.  46),  nearly  opposite  which  is  the  Pantheony 
whieh  has  snccessirelybeen  a  concert-room,  a  theatre,  and  a  bazaar, 
and  is  now  the  extensive  wine  warehouse  of  Messrs.  Gilbey.  Berners 
Street,  on  the  left,  is  noted  for  the  ^great  Berners  Street  hoax'  of 
Theodore  Hook.  S.  T.  Coleridge  lived  at  No.  71  (tablet).  —  Soho 
Street,  on  the  right,  farther  on,  leads  to  Soho  SavAUB  (PI.  R,  27). 
On  the  N.  side  of  this  square  is  the  new  French  Ptotestant  Church, 
one  of  the  best  examples  of  terracotta  architecture  in  London  \  and 
on  the  E.  side  is  the  new  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  St,  Patrick. 

The  district  of  Soho  contains  a  large  colony  of  Italian  cooks,  couriers, 
waiters,  tailors,  restaurant-keepers,  servants,  teachers,  etc.  —  No.  37  Qerrard 
Street  (now  a  restaurant,  p.  13),  »/<  M.  to  the  8.  of  Soho  Square,  was  for 
several  years  the  home  of  Edmund  Burke  (tablet);  and  Dryden  lived  at 
Ko.  43  (tablet)  from  1686  till  Lis  death  in  1700.  Mozart,  when  a  boy  of 
eight  years  (March,  1763),  lodged  with  his  father  and  sister  at  51  Frith 
Street,  leading  to  the  8.  from  Soho  Square.  WilUam  Hazlitt  died  (1830) 
at  No.  6  in  the  same  street.  —  In  the  churchyard  of  St.  Jnnej  (PI.  R,  27: /), 
Wardour  Street,  are  a  tablet  to  Theodore,  King  of  Corsica,  who  died  (1756) 
in  poverty  near  by,  and  the  grave  of  William  Hazlitt  (d.  1830). 

Oxford  Street  proper  ends  at  Tottenham  Court  Road  (see  below), 
which  runs  to  the  N.,  and  Charing  Cross  Road  (p.  164),  leading  to 
the  S.  to  Charing  Cross. 

ToTTENHAK  GouBT  ROAD  (PI.  R,  28;  /)  Tuns  to  the  N.  to  Buston  Boad. 
On  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  Great  Rnssell  St.,  the  new  building  of  the 
Younff  Men's  Christian  Association  (formerly  established  at  Exeter  Hall,  p.  ICO) 
is  under  construction.  The  plans  include  a  residential  home  and  club- 
accommodation  for  young  men,  a  business -college,  a  gymnasium  and 
swimming  bath,  and  various  rooms  and  halls  for  meetiDgj.  The  total  cost 
is  estimated  at  150,000/.  Farther  on  (left)  is  the  Whiteji eld  Memorial  Church, 
a  conspicuous  red  brick  edi6ce,  built  in  1899,  on  the  site  of  a  chapel 
originally  erected  by  George  Whitefield  in  1758.  The  churchyard,  now 
open  to  the  public  as  the  Whit^ld  Oardern^  contains  the  graves  of  Bacon, 
the  sculptor  (d.  1799),  and  Whitefield's  wife.  Tottenham  St.,  to  the  S. 
of  the  church,  lea-'s  to  the  W.  to  the  8cala  Theatre  (p.  46).  —  The  line  of 
Tottenham  Court  Road  is  continued  beyond  Euston  Road,  towards  the  N. 
(Camden  Town,  Hampstead)  by  Bampetead  Road,  No.  263  in  which  was  the 
house  of  Geoi^e  Craikshank,  the  caricaturist,  where  he  died  in  1878  (tablet). 
—  At  the  N.  end  of  Hampstead  Road  is  a  Statue  of  Richard  Cobden  (PI.  B,  23) 
erected  in  1868.  Crowndale  Road  leads  thence  to  the  E.  to  Great  College 
Street  (p.  273),  passing  the  new  building  of  the  Working  Metis  College, 
founded  in  1854  mainly  by  F.  D.  Maurice  and  removed  hither  in  19(X3. 

Great  Rvssell  Street,  running  off  Tottenham  Court  Road  a  little  to  the 
N.  of  Oxford  Street,  leads  to  the  E.  to  the  British  Museum  (p.  291).  - 

The  eastern  prolongation  of  Oxford  Street,  extending  to  Holborn, 
and  called  New  Oxford  Street,  was  laid  out  in  1849  at  a  cost  of 
290,000Z.  through  the  *Rookery  of  St.  Giles',  one  of  the  most  dis- 
reputable quarters  of  London.  A  little  to  the  S.,  in  High  Street, 
is  the  church  of  St,  Oiles-in-the-Fields,  the  third  church  on  this 
site,  completed  in  1734.  Chapman,  the  translator  of  Homer  (tomb- 
stone against  the  exterior  S.  wall,  erected  by  Inlgo  Jones),  Shirley, 
the  dramatist,  and  Andrew  Mary  ell  are  buried  here.  Close  to  the 
S.E.  corner  of  the  church  is  the  square  tomb  of  Richard  Pendrell 


272  22.  UNIVERSITY  COLLEGE.     The  West  End. 

(d.  1671),  who  helped  Charles  II.  to  safety  after  the  battle  of 
Worcester,  with  a  quaint  epitaph,  describing  him  as  'Unparalleled 
Pendreir.  On  the  N.  side  of  New  Oxford  Street,  at  the  corner  of 
Museum  Street,  is  MudieU  Library  (p.  65).  —  Mweum  Street  leads  to 
the  N.  to  the  British  Museum  (p.  291),  in  Great  Russell  Street. 


The  resiilential  diBtrict  bounded  by  New  Oxford  Street  and  Holbom 
pn  the  S.,  Tottenham  Court  Boad  on  the  W.,  Euston  Road  on  the  N.,  and 
Oray's  Inn  Road  on  the  E.,  is  known  as  Bloomabury,  a  corruption  of 
*Blemnndsbury\  the  manor  of  the  Blemunds  or  the  Blemontes.  It  has 
many  literary  and  historical  associations.  Among  its  squares  are,  to  the 
W.  of  the  British  Museum,  Bkdfokd  Sqdass;  to  the  £.,  Bloomsbubt 
FiQUAKB  and  RussKLL  Sqcabb,  the  one  containing  a  statue  of  Ctuxrlet  Jame$ 
Fox  (d.  1806),  and  the  other  one  of  Francis.  Duke  of  Bedford  (d.  18U2),  both 
by  Westnuteott.  In  Bloomsbury  Square  stands  the  College  of  PteceplorB  (1889), 
an  exanainlng  institute  which  grants  diplomas  to  teachers  (F.  G.  P.,  L.  G.  P., 
A.  0.  P.). 

Qower  Street,  which  leads  to  the  N.  from  Bedford  Square,  con- 
tains Univeriity  College  (PI.  B,28),  founded  in  1828,  chiefly  through 
the  exertions  of  Lord  Brougham,  for  students  of  every  religious  de- 
nomination. It  is  now  a  school  of  London  Uniyersity  (p.  341). 
A  long  flight  of  steps  leads  to  the  dodecastyle  Corinthian  portico 
fronting  the  main  edifice,  which  is  400  ft.  in  length  and  surmounted 
by  a  handsome  dome.  It  contains  numerous  lecture  rooms,  a  laboratory, 
the  Slade  School  of  Fine  Art,  and  a  museum  with  original  models 
and  drawings  by  Flaxman  (d.  1826),  the  celebrated  sculptor  (open 
to  visitors  in  the  summer  months,  Sat.  10-4).  The  laboratories,  etc., 
built  next  the  street  in  1892,  somewhat  mask  the  view  of  the  main 
edifice.  The  subjects  studied  at  the  college  comprise  the  exact  and 
natural  sciences,  the  classical  and  modern  languages  and  literatures, 
history,  law,  and  medicine.  The  number  of  professors  is  about  60, 
and  that  of  students  about  1100,  paying  over  20,000^  In  fees. 
University  College  School  for  boys  (3-400),  at  which  Mr.  John  Morley 
(now  Viscount  Morley),  Mr.  Joseph  Chamberlain,  and  Lord  Leigh  ton 
were  pupils,  once  occupied  the  S.  wing  of  the  main  building,  but 
was  transferred  in  1907  to  a  handsome  new  edifice  at  Bampstead. 
In  Gower  Street,  opposite  the  college,  and  connected  with  it  as  a 
clinical  establishment,  stands  the  Univeriity  College  Hoipital  (re- 
cently rebuilt),  where  about  60,000  patients  are  annually  treated  by 
the  medical  professors  of  the  college.  —  Charles  Darwin  (1809-82) 
lived  at  110  Gower  St.  and  Sir  Samuel  Lomilly  (1767-1818)  at  64 
(tablets). 

In  Gordon  Square  is  the  Catholic  Apostolic  Church  (P1.R,28), 
built  in  1850-64,one  of  the  largest  ecclesiastical  edifices  in  London. 

The  Intkriob  is  a  fine  example  of  modern  Gothic  (Early  English), 
though  unfinished  towards  the  W.  The  Choir,  with  its  graceful  triforium 
and  diapered  spandrels,  is  very  rich.  The  most  beautiful  part  of  the 
ehurch  is,  however,  the  Englith  Chapel^  to  the  K  of  the  chancel,  with 
its  polychrome  painting,  stained-glass  windows,  and  open  arcade  with  fine 
carving  (particularly  on  the  three  arches  to  the  8.  of  the  altar). 

In  Wobum  Square  (PI.  B,  28),   1o  the  8.  of  Gordon  Square,  is  CArisI 


TheWestEnd.     22.  ST.  PANCRAS'  CHURCH.  273 

Church,  containing  a  reredos  in  memory  of  the  poeteas  ChrUtina  Rossetti 
(d.  1894).    The  paintings  are  from  designs  by  Sir  Edward  Bume- Jones. 

In  Tavistock  Place,  to  the  £.  of  Gordon  Square,  is  the  Fcutmort 
Edward*  Settlement  (p.  73),  the  seat  of  a  University  Settlement  formed 
largely  under  the  inspiration  of  Mrs.  Humphry  Ward's  *Robert  £lsmere\ 

John  Ruikin  (1819-1900)  was  bom  at  Ko.  54,  Hunter  Street,  leading  to 
the  N.  from  Brunswick  Square  (PI.  B,  32). 

At  the  N.  end  of  Gower  Street  is  the  Oower  Street  8tatior%  (Me- 
tropolitan; p.  31).  Thence  Euston  Road  runs  to  the  E.  to  Euston 
Station^  terminus  of  the  London  and  North  Western  Railway  (p.  25), 
the  entrance  -  hall  of  which  contains  a  colossal  statae  of  George 
Stephenson,  by  Baily.  In  Drnmmond  St.  is  the  Euston  Station 
of  the  Hampstead  Tuhe  (p.  36). 

St.Pancrag'Chnrch(Pl.  B,28),  in  Euston  Square,  was  built  by 
the  Messrs.  Inwood  in  1819  at  a  cost  of  76,679i.  It  Is  an  imitation 
of  the  Ereohtheum  at  Athens,  while  Its  tower,  168  ft.  In  height,  Is 
a  double  reproduction  of  the  so-called  Tower  of  the  Winds. 

Old  St.  Fancras'*  Church  (PI.  B,  27),  with  its  historical  churchyard,  is 
situated  in  Old  St.  Panoras  Boad,  next  to  the  Workhouse.  Part  of  the 
churchyard,  with  the  adjacent  St.  Giles  burying-ground,  has  been  converted 
into  public  gardens.  A  monument  was  erected  here  in  1879  by  the  Baroness 
Burdett-Coutts  to  those  whose  graves  were  disturbed  in  the  process.  Among 
the  gravestones  preserved  here  are  those  of  William  Godwin  (1756-1836)  and 
his  wife.  It  U  said  that  Shelley  first  met  his  second  wife,  Mary  Godwin, 
at  her  mother''s  grave  in  this  churchyard. 

Farther  to  the  E.  Is  the  St.  Paneras  Station,  terminus  of  the 
Midland  Railway  (p.  23),  with  the  terminus  hotel,  a  very  hand- 
some building  In  an  ornate  Gothic  style,  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott.  Ad* 
jacent  is  the  King's  Cross  Station^  terminus  of  the  Great  Northern 
Railway  (p.  26).  In  front  of  the  latter  is  the  King's  Cross  Station 
of  the  Piccadilly  and  Finsbury  Tube  (p.  36)  and  a  little  to  the  E. 
Is  the  Metropolitan  station  of  the  same  name  (p.  31). 

To  the  K.  of  King's  Gross  lie  the  populous  but  comparatively  uninterest- 
ing districts  of  Somsbs  Town,  Camdbn  Town,  Ksntish  Town,  Islington, 
HiGHBUBT,  and  HoLLOWAT.  In  Great  College  Street,  Camden  Town,  is 
situated  the  Royal  Veterinary  College  (PL  B,  27),  with  a  museum  to  which 
visitors  are  admitted  daily  (9  to  5  or  6)  on  presenting  their  cards.  Charlet 
Dibdin  (d.  1814),  the  writer  of  nautical  songs,  is  buried  in  St.  Martin's 
Burial  Ground,  Camden  Street  (now  a  public  recreation- ground),  a  little 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  -Veterinary  College.  He  is  commemorated  by  a  Scan- 
dinavian cross.  The  Royal  Affricullitral  Hall  (p.  49)  is  in  Liverpool  Boad, 
Islington  (PL  B,  86),  and  tbe  Or€Md  Theatre  (p.  47)  is  close  by,  in  High 
Street.  Alex.  Cruden  (1701-70),  of  'Concordance'  fame,  lived  in  Camden 
Pa5sage,  off  High  Street  (PI.  B,  36).  About  V*  M.  to  the  N.,  in  Canon- 
bury  Square  (PI.  B,  38),  is  *Canonbury  Tower,  an  interesting  relic  of  the 
country-residence  of  the  Priors  of  St.  Bartholomew.  The  tower,  now  used 
as  a  free  library  and  reading-room,  was  probably  built  by  Prior  Bolton 
(p.  102),  though  restored  at  a  later  date,  and  contains  a  fine  carved  oak 
room.  Oliver  Goldsmith  occupied  rooms  in  the  tower  in  1762.  Charles 
and  Mary  Lamb  lived  at  No.  19  Colebrooke  Row  (PL  B,  35)  in  1823-1827. 

Holloway  Qaol  or  City  Prison  (beyond  PL  B,  26),  a  rather  handsome 
building,  is  mainly  used  for  short-sentence  or  unconvicted  prisoners  (about 
350  men  and  650  women);  Fentonville  Friton  (PL  B,  SO),  constructed  on 
the  radiating  principle,  accommodates  about  1000  male  prisoners  and  is 
conducted  on  a  modified  silent  and  separate  system.  Grimaldi.  the  famous 
clown,  is  buried  in  St.  James's  Churchyard,  Pentonville  Roaa  (PL  B^32). 

Bakdbsbb's  London.    15th  Edit.  Ig 


274  22.  FOUNDLING  HOSPITAL.     TheWestEnd, 

The  great  Metropolitan  CatUe  Market  (PL  B,  23.  26,  29,  80),  Copenhagen 
Fields,  repays  a  visit  on  Thursdays,  when  3-4000  cattle  and  12,000  sheep 
are  usually  on  sale  (comp.  p.  63).  The  market,  opened  in  18d5,  covers 
an  area  of  30  acres.  Around  the  lofty  clock-tower  in  the  centre  are  grouped 
a  post-office,  a  telegraph- station,  banks,  an  enquiry-office,  shops,  etc.  At  the 
sides  are  interminable  rows  of  well-arranged  stalls  for  the  cattle,  of  which 
about  4,000,000  are  sold  here  every  year.  The  ^Pedlars^  Market'  on  Friday 
afternoons  brings  together  an  extraordinary  assortment  of  second-hand  goods. 


The  eastern  prolongation  of  New  Oxford  Street  is  High  Holbom 
(PI.  R,  32,  and  //;  so  called  from  the  ^Hole  Boume\  or  Fleet  Brook, 
wbicli  once  flowed  throngh  the  hollow  near  here),  a  street  which 
suryiyed  the  Great  Fire,  and  still  contains  a  considerable  number 
of  old  honses.  Milton  once  liyed  here,  and  it  was  by  this  route  that 
condemned  criminals  used  to  be  conducted  to  Tyburn.  The  increas- 
ing traffic  indicates  that  we  are  approaching  the  City.  —  Southamp- 
ton Row,  recently  widened,  leads  to  the  left  (N.)  to  Russell  Square 
(p.  272)}  at  the  S.  end  of  this  street,  on  the  right,  is  the  Baptist 
Church  House,  built  in  1903,  with  a  statue  of  John  Bunyan  on  its 
N.W.  angle.  On  the  opposite  side  of  High  Holborn  opens  the  new 
Kingsway  (p.  158),  and  farther  on,  on  the  same  side  are  several 
side  -  streets,  leading  to  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields  (with  the  Soant  Mu- 
seum, etc.;  see  pp.  207-209).  Red  Lion  Street  on  the  left,  con- 
tinued by  Lamb's  Conduit  Street,  leads  to  Guilford  Street,  on  the 
N.  side  of  which  stands  the  — 

Foundling  Hospital  (PI.  R,  32) ,  a  remarkable  establishment 
founded  by  Captain  Thomas  Coram  in  1739  for  *deserted  children'. 
Since  1760,  however,  it  has  not  been  used  as  a  foundling  hospital, 
but  as  a  home  for  illegitimate  children,  whose  mothers  are  known. 
(Neither  in  London  nor  in  any  other  part  of  England  are  there  any 
foundling  hospitals  in  the  proper  sense  of  the  term,  such  as  the 
*Hospice  des  Enfants  Trouv^s'  in  Paris.)  The  number  of  the  children 
is  about  560,  and  the  yearly  income  of  the  Hospital,  23,000i. 

In  the  Board  Room  and  the  Secretary"'*  Room  are  a  number  of  pictures, 
chiefly  painted  about  the  middle  of  the  18th  century.  They  include  the  fol- 
lowing: Hogarth,  *March  to  Finchley,  and  Finding  of  Moses ;  portraits  by 
Ramtay,  Reynold*,  and  BhaeJcleton;  views  of  the  Foundling  Hospital  and 
St.  George's  Hospital  by  Wilton;  view  of  the  Charterhouse  by  Gain*- 
borough.  The  Kcture  Gallery  contains  a  good  portrait  of  Coram  by 
Hogarth.  Most  of  the  pictures  were  presented  to  the  institution  by  the 
artists  themselves.  (The  success  with  which  the  exhibition  of  these  pic- 
tures was  attended  is  said  to  have  led  to  the  first  exhibition  of  the  Royal 
Academy  in  1760.)  The  hospital  also  possesses  Raphael's  cartoon  of  the 
Massacre  of  the  Innocents,  a  bust  of  Handel  and  some  of  his  musical  MSS., 
a  collection  of  coins  or  tokens  deposited  with  the  children  (1741-60) ,  etc. 
The  Chapel  is  adorned  with  an  altar-piece  by  Weet ,  representing  Christ 
blessing  little  children ;  the  ox^an  was  a  gift  from  H&ndel.  Divine  ser- 
vice, at  which  the  children  are  led  in  singing  bv  trained  voices,  is  per- 
formed on  Sundays  at  11  a.m.  and  3.80  p.m.  The  Hospital  is  shown  to 
visitors  on  Mondays  from  10  to  3  and  on  Sundays,  after  morning-service, 
when  the  children  in  their  quaint  costumes  may  be  seen  at  dinner.  The 
attendants  are  forbidden  to  accept  gratuities,  but  a  contribution  to  the 
funds  of  the  institution  is  expected  from  the  visitor  on  entering  or  in  the 
church-offertory. 


TheWestEnd.     23.  WALLACE  COLLECTION.  275 

In  Great  Ormond  Street,  which  leads  to  the  E.  from  Lamb's  Con- 
duit Street  to  Queen  Square,  is  the  Sick  Children's  Hospital  (open 
to  visitors  daily,  2-4),  the  largest  institution  of  the  kind  in  England 
or  America.  Convalescent  Home,  see  p.  373.  The  nurses'  home 
belonging  to  the  hospital,  No.  44  Great  Oimond  St.,  is  the  house 
occupied  by  Lord  Thurlow  when  the  great  seal  of  England  was 
stolen  from  his  custody  in  1784;  it  retains  some  ceilings  and  wood- 
work of  the  17th  cent,  (shown  daily,  2-4).  No.  43  was  the  home 
of  John  Howard  (1726-90),  the  philanthropist.  In  this  street  is 
also  the  Homoeopathie  Hospital, 

To  the  E.  of  Lincoln's  Inn  are  Chancery  Lane  (p.  150)  on  the 
right  (after  which  we  are  in  the  City),  and  Gray's  Inn  Road  (p.  162) 
on  the  left.  Then  Holborn  Viaduct^  Newgate^  etc.,  see  pp.  98,  97. 

23.  The  Wallace  Collection. 

The  nearest  station  to  Hertford  House  is  Bond  Street  (PI.  R,  19;  /)  on 
the  Central  London  Railway.  —  All  the  Omnibtu  Lines  plying  N.  and  S.  to 
and  from  Baker  Street  Metropolitan  Station  (PI.  R,  20)  pass  within  a  few 
minutes^  walk  either  to  the  W.  or  to  the  E.  of  Manchester  Square  (comp. 
Special  Plan  /). 

Hertford  HoiiBe  (PI.  R,  20;  i),  formerly  the  residence  of  the 
fourth  marqnis  of  Hertford  and  said  to  be  the  original  of  Gaunt 
House  in  Thackeray's  'Vanity  Fair',  stands  on  the  N.  side  of 
Manchester  Square.  This  mansion  was  afterwards  occupied  by  Sir 
Kichard  Wallace  (d.  1890),  who  added  three  fine  galleries  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  famous  Hertford  Collection,  which  he  greatly  extended. 
This  magnificent  collection,  now  known  as  the  **Wallace  Collection 
and  valued  at  4,000,000^.,  was  bequeathed  to  the  nation  by  Lady 
Wallace  (d.  1897),  and  80,000^.  were  voted  by  parliament  to  pur- 
chase the  house  and  adapt  it  as  a  public  gallery  (opened  In  June, 
1900).  Adm.,  see  p.  82.  Catalogue  of  the  pictures  (1908)  6d. 
(abridgement,  2d.),  of  the  armour  (1907)  6d.;  of  the  furniture  and 
objects  of  art  (1906),  6d. ;  but  all  the  exhibits  are  provided  with 
descriptive  labels.  During  the  winter-months  the  tapestried  furniture 
is  protected  by  coverings  and  cannot  therefore  be  seen.  The  director 
Is  Mr.  Claude  Phillips. 

The  ^Picture  Gallery  (over  750  works)  includes  an  admirable 
series  of  Dutch  and  Flemish  paintings ,  and  a  few  choice  canvases 
of  the  Italian,  Spanish,  and  Brituh  schools ;  but  its  special  import- 
ance is  due  perhaps  to  the  exceptionally  fine  collection  of  French 
art  of  the  18th  and  early  19th  cent.,  which  rivals  and  in  some  points 
excels  that  in  the  Louvre,  while  it  fills  a  serious  gap  in  the  national 
collections  of  Great  Britain.  There  are  also  a  fine  seiies  of  Minia- 
tures and  choice  examples  of  French  Sculpture  of  the  17th  and 
18th  centuries.  —  The  ^French  Furniture^  chiefly  of  the  periods  of 
Louis  XIV.,  XV.,  and  XVI.,  which  is  distributed  through  the  rooms 
containing  the  paintings,  at  least  equals  the  corresponding  collec- 

18* 


276 


23.  WALLACE  COLLECTION.     The  West  End, 


tions  in  tbe  LouYie  and  the  Garde  Meuble  of  Paris.  This  depart- 
ment is  completed  hy  a  rich  collection  of  sumptuous  clocks,  cande- 
labra, mantelpiece  garnitures,  bronzes,  and  ornamental  bric-a-brac 
of  every  kind.  —  The  ^Armoury,  though  collected  more  with  a  view 
to  illustrate  the  art  of  the  armourer  than  the  art  of  war,  is  the  finest 
in  England.  —  Finally,  the  ^Shvres  Porcelain,  Italian  Majolica, 
Enamels,  Ivories,  and  French  Snuff  Boxes  will  richly  repay  attention. 

Beyond  the  entrance  (where  sticks  and  umbrellas  are  given  up) 
we  enter  the  Lowbb  Hall.  Immediately  in  front  rises  the  Great 
Staircase,  with  a  handsome  balustrade  of  the  period  of  Louis  XIY., 
formerly  in  the  Biblioth^que  Nationale  at  Paris,  and  busts  of  Sir 
Richard  and  Lady  Wallace  and  the  fourth  Marquis  of  Hertford. 

Most  of  tlie  paintings  and  much  of  the  finest  furniture  are  on  the  first 
floor;  visitors  are  therefore  recomniended  to  ascend  the  staircase  at  once, 
and,  turning  to  the  right  at  the  top,  to  traverse  BB.  XX,  XIX,  XVIII,  and 
XVII  in  order  to  begin  with  B.  XVI,  which  contains  the  gems  of  the 
picture-gallery,  other  than  those  of  the  French  school.  —  The  numbers  of 
the  rooms  are  painted  above  the  doors,  on  the  inside. 

Pirgt  Floor.  —  Room  XVI.  Vabious  Schools.  To  the  left : 
*1.  Cima  da  Conegliano,  St.  Catharine  of  Alexandria  (central  panel 
from  an  altar-piece,  the  wings  of  which  are  now  in  Strassburg  Mu- 
seum); 2.  Bianchi,  Allegorical 
subject ;  5.  Copy  of  Titian,  Rape 
of  Europa  (original  in  Boston, 
U.S.A.);  6, 12.  Velazquez,  Don 
Baltasar  Carlos;  8,  10.  Luini, 
Virgin  and  Child;  *9,  Andrea 
del  5arto,Virgin  and  Ohild,wlth 
St.  John  and  two  angels.  — 
*11.  Titian,  Perseus  and  An- 
dromeda. 

Mr.  Claude  PhilUps,  who  dis- 
covered this  painting  in  a  neglected 
condition  in  a  bathroom  in  Hert- 
ford House,  identifies  it  with  a 
worlc  mentioned  byVasari  as  paint- 
ed for  Philip  II.  of  Spain  about  1562. 
It  afterwards  belonged  to  the  Or- 
leans Gallery,  and  on  the  dispersal 
of  that  collection  in  London  in  1798 
disappeared  from  public  view. 

Murillo,  13.  Virgin  and 
Child,  14.  Marriage  of  the  Vir- 
gin ;  i^Alonso  Cano,  Vision 
of  St.  John  the  Evangelist  (in 
the  master's  earlier  style);  17,  21.  /.  van  Ostade,  Village-scenes; 
18,  22.  Corn,  de  Vos,  Portraits;  19.  Venetian  School i  Venus  dis- 
arming Cupid;  24,  28.  Jan  Both,  ItaUan  landscapes;  23,  27.  P.  de 
Hooy^,  Dutch  interiors;  25.  Berchem,  Coast-scene ;  29.  Rembrandt, 
The  artist's  son  Titus;  30.  Rubens,  Isabella  Brant, "firs!  wife  of  the 


TheWestEnd,     23.  WALLACE  COLLECTION.  277 

artist.  Above,  MuriUo^M.  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  46(fartlier 
on),  Joseph  and  his  brSTIFffen.  Reynolds,  31-33,  35.  PlJr^its,  36. 
'LoTe  me,  love  my  dog',  ♦38.  Portrait  of  Nelly  0*Brien.  37. 
Bomney,  Mrs.  *Perdita'  Robinson;  39.  Lawrence,  Portrait;  *40. 
Reynolds,  The  Strawberry  Girl;  41.  Lawrence,  Portrait;  Oams- 
borcugh,  *42.  Mrs.  ^Perdita'  Robinson,  44.  Miss  Haverfleld;  Reynolds, 
H6.  Mrs.  Terdlta'  Robinson,  47.  Mrs.  Braddyl,  48.  John  the  Baptist ; 
A.  Cuyp,  49,  64.  River-scenes,  *61.  Landscape  with  avenue;  52,  56. 
Rembrandt,  Portraits  of  himself;  ♦53.  Van  Dyek,  Portrait  of  an 
Italian  nobleman;  67.  Pynacker,  Landscape ;  66.  J.  van  Ruysdael, 
Landscape  with  waterfall.  —  68.  Murillo ,  fl^Ty'Family ;  59,  62. 
Jan  Weenix,  Birds;  60^  HoObema,  Landscape;  61.  C,  Drost  {'i), 
Portrait ;  ^3.^Eu&en>;  ifc  'Rainbow'  landscape ;^65^Pft.  Wouvemum, 
Horse- fairLgS.  Murillo,  Annunciation.  —  70.  Attributed  to  Velazquez, 
Boar-huntr7][rBt<6ena,  The  Crucified.  —  ♦73.  Lvan  Ostade,  Winter- 
scene;  74.  F.  Bol,  Toper;  76.  Hobbema,  Stormy  landscape;  76. 
J.  de  Heem,  Still-life;  77.  W.  van  de  Velde,  Sea-fight;  78.  Govert 
FUnck,  Portrait;  ♦79.  Van  Dyck,  Madame  Philippe  le  Roy  (comp. 
No.  94);  80.  A,  van  de  Velde,  Departure  of  Jacob  into  Egypt;  81. 
RubeThs,  Holy  Family ;  ^82,  ^90  (^farther  on),  Rembrandt,  Burgo- 
master Jan  Pellicorne  and  his  wife ;  ^84^  F.  Hals,  The  laughing 
cavalier ;  86.  Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  him^SlTas  Paris ;  *8Q.  Rembrandt, 
The  unmerciful  servant;  ♦SS.  Velazquez,  'La  Femffie  f  Teventail' ; 
89.  Bacfc«r,  Portrait;  92.  Gonzales  Coques,  Family  group;  9^,  Rubens, 
Christ's  charge  to  St.  Peter;  ♦94.  Van  Dyck,  Philippe  le  Roy; 
96.  N.  Maes,  Boy  with  a  hawk;  95,  99.  Hobbema,  Landscapes;  ^7>, 
Murillo,  Charity  of  St.  Thomas  of  Villanueva  j  102.  JanFyt,  Still-life. 

The  magnificent  series  of  bureaux,  commodes,  and  other  furniture 
in  this  room  illustrates  French  taste  from  the  period  of  Louis  XIV. 
to  that  of  Louis  XVI.,  and  comprizes  specimens  by  Jacques  Caffieri 
(1678-1765;  No.  68),  Charles  Cressent  (1686-1768;  No.  67),  and 
Andri  Charles  BouUe  (1642-1732;  Nos.  43,  49,  61,  53).  The  large 
bureau  (No.  66)  at  the  E.  end  of  the  room  is  by  Riesener  (1769;; 
that  at  the  other  end  (No.  68)  is  a  modern  French  copy  of  the  'Bu- 
reau du  Roi'  (Louis  XV.),  now  in  the  Louvre.  The  fine  bronzes  are, 
with  few  exceptions,  French  works  of  the  17-18th  centuries. 

Room  XVII.  Schools  of  thb  17th  Cbntxjey.  102.  J.B.  Weenix, 
Flowers  and  fruit ;  107.  C.  de  Heem,  Still-life ;  108.  N.  Poussin,  Dance 
of  the  Seasons ;  110.  B.  van  der  Heist,  Family  group;  111.  Jan  Steen, 
Christening  feast;  114.  Claude  Lorrain,  Landscape;  116.  Salv,  Rosa, 
River-scene,  with  Apollo  and  the  Sibyl;  117.  J.  B.  Weenix,  Coast- 
scene  ;  119.  Ph.  de  Champaigne,  Marriage  of  the  Virgin ;  121.  Hackaert, 
Landscape;  122.  Largillilre,  Louis  XIV.  and  his  family.  —  126. 
Sassoferrato,  Virgin  and  Child;  ^127.  Ph.  de  Champaigne,  Portrait 
of  Robert  Arnauld  d'Andilly  (d.  1674),  theological  writer;  128.  J. 
Raoux,  A  lady  at  her  mirror;  130.  H.  Rigaud,  Cardinal  Fleury; 
132.  Camphuysen,  Landscape;  137,  W.  van  de  Velde,  Sea-piece 


278  23.  WALLACE  COLLECTION.     The  West  End. 

(*Le  Coup  de  Canon') ;  138.  A.  Cuypj  River-scene,  with  view  of  Dort. 
—  The  glass-case  in  the  centre  contains  Shvres  Porcelain  of  the 
ISth  cent.,  including  No.  27.  Cup  and  saucer  in  *l3leu  du  roi',  with 
portrait  of  Benjamin  Franklin.  The  clock  at  the  end  of  the  room  is 
by  A.  C.  Boulle  (d.  1732).  —  A  flight  of  steps  descends  from  this 
room  to  R.  VII  (p.  283). 

Rooms  XVIII,  XIX,  and  XXIII  are  devoted  to  the  Feench 
School  of  the  ISth  Cbntuby.  The  sumptuous  contemporary  •Fur- 
niture and  bric-a-brac  are  admirably  in  harmony  with  the  decorative 
character  of  the  paintings.  Room  XVIII  contains  a  charming  series 
of  fetes  champetres ,  conversations  galantes ,  pastoral  and  romantic 
scenes,  etc.,  by  Watteau  (1684-1721),  Lancret  (1690-1743),  Paler 
(1696-1736),  Boucher  (1704-1770),  and  Fm^onafd  (1732-1806), 
the  delicacy  and  grace  of  which  will  repay  careful  inspection. 
Oreuze  (1725-1805)  is  represented  by  a  number  of  characteristic 
heads  and  several  other  works,  including  *403.  Portrait  of  Ml^e. 
Sophie  Arnould,  the  actress;  Lcmoine  (1688-1737)  by  two  works 
(Nos.  392,  417) ;  and  Nattier  (1686-1760)  by  the  portrait  of  a  French 
prince  (No.  414).  —  Glass-cases  A.  and  B.  contain  *Frerich  Snuff 
Boxes  and  Bonbonnilres  (18th  cent.).  In  Case  C.  is  Sevres  Porcelain 
(18th  cent.)  of  the  period  of  Louis  XV. 

Room  XIX.  contains  decorative  pieces  lay  Boucher^  including  a 
series  of  mythological  subjects  for  a  boudoir  (Nos.  429,  433,  438, 
444).  Also:  430.  Fragonard,  The  swing;  435.  2?oi%,  The  dead 
mouse;  437.  Nattier^  Queen  Marie  Lesczinska;  *439.  WatUaUy  The 
toilet;  442.  Greuze^  The  broken  mirror.  —  In  the  centre :  24.  Small 
table  formerly  belonging  to  Marie  Antoinette;  23.  Gilt  arm-chair  in 
silk  brocade,  said  to  have  belonged  to  the  Empress  Maria  Theresa. 
By  the  wall:  16.  Ebony  commode,  described  as  the  marriage-chest 
of  the  Dauphiness  Marie  Antoinette. 

Room  XX.  449.  Mme.  Le  Brun,  Boy  in  red ;  451.  C,  A.  Van  Loo^ 
Concert  given  by  the  Grand  Turk;  456.  Nattier^  Portrait  of  Mile, 
de  Clermont;  De  Troy  (1679-1752),  463.  The  hunt-breakfast,  470. 
Stag  at  bay;  J.  L.  de  Mame  (1774-1829),  462.  Soldiers  revelling, 
469.  The  elixir;  464,  466.  Lipicie,  Domestic  scenes;  477.  L.Af.  Van 
Loo^  Louis  XV.  —  6,  11.  Secretaires  with  plaques  of  Sevres  por- 
celain (style  of  Louis  XVI.);  15,  17.  Book-case  and  Table  in  green 
lacquer,  said  to  have  been  presented  by  Louis  XV.  to  the  Empress 
Catharine  of  Russia.  The  Peace  of  Tilsit  was  signed  on  this  table 
in  1807.  In  the  glass-case  are  gold  and  silver  candlesticks;  knives, 
forks,  and  spoons;  and  other  precious  objects  of  the  18th  century. 
NVe  now  proceed  to  — 

Room  XXIII,  t.  e.  the  landing  at  the  top  of  the  great  staircase. 
On  the  walls  above  the  staircase  are  huge  allegorical  and  mytho- 
logical compositions  by  Boucher  (*485.  Rising  of  the  Sun ;  *486. 
Setting  of  the  Sun)  and  Lemoine;  above  the  doors  to  the  right  and 


The  West  End,     23.  WALLACE  COLLECTION.  279 

left,  483,  488.  Fftigonardy  Cupids  sporting,  Cupids  reposing ;  ou 
the  walls  of  the  landing,  482,  489.  Boucher ^  Pastoral  scenes.  — 
Beneath  the  last,  14-17.  Perpetual  Calendar,  in  four  sections,  enam- 
elled on  copper,  with  the  signs  of  the  Zodiac  (early  18th  cent.); 
18,  30  (opposite).  Clock  and  harometer  en  suite,  in  the  form  of  obe- 
lisks, veneered  with  lapis  lazuli  (Louis  XVI.) ;  26,  27.  Two  ebony 
pedestals;  the  first  with  marqueterie  of  metal  on  tortoiseshell  (^par- 
tie'),  the  other  with  marqueterie  of  tortoiseshell  on  metal  ('contre- 
partie').— In  the  glass  alcove  to  the  right,  *Cupid  byi^.F.  QiUet(?), 
a  repetition  of  the  statuette  in  the  Louvre. 

Room  XXI  (entered  from  R.  XX).  Watbb  Colours  by  Copley 
Fielding,  *Riehard  Bonington,  ^Decampa^  Lami,  Derby,  H,  Vemet, 
Brascassat,  *Raffet,  Downman,  Oiricaulty  etc.  —  In  the  centre, 
Cupid  and  Psyche,  a  sculptured  group  'byAugustinCaillot^d.  1722). 
Furniture  in  Beauvais  tapestry,  from  designs  by  Ctwonova (18th  cent.). 

Room  XXII.  Watbb  Colours  by  DeeampSj  Turner,  Bonington, 
Clarkson  Stanfield,  Roberts  ^  Pilt,  Cogniet,  etc.  On  a  screen  are 
sketches  in  oil  by  Rubens,  *69.  Clodion,  White  marble  vase,  with 
reliefs.  —  The  furniture,  bronzes,  etc.,  in  this  room  should  also  be 
noticed.  Case  A  (by  the  first  window),  SSvres  toilet-service  sup- 
posed to  have  been  used  by  Louis  XVI.  —  14  (by  the  exit),  Bureau, 
with  simulated  shelf  of  books.  —  Beyond  R.  XXII  we  enter  — 

Room  XII,  on  the  walls  of  which  is  an  important  series  of  Ven- 
etian views  by  Canaletto  (No.  498  the  'most  authentic^  according 
to  the  catalogue),  with  a  few  by  Ouardi.  The  large  ebony  wall- 
cabinet  on  the  right  (No.  4 ;  'Londonderry  cabinet')  contains  porce- 
lain and  plate;  above,  several  fine  bronzes.  Glass-cases  C.  &  B., 
in  the  centre,  contain  S&vres  porcelain  (18th  cent.),  including  ad- 
mirable specimens  of  'rose  Du  Barry'  (Case  B.)  and  *bleu  du  roi'  ware 
(Case  C).  Case  A.  contains  repousse  and  chased  plate  (16-18tli 
cent.)  and  exquisite  pendent  jewels  of  the  16th  century.  The  furni- 
ture (Louis XVI. ;  with  modern  brocade),  the  clocks  (one  said  to  have 
been  presented  to  Louis  XV.  by  the  city  of  Metz),  the  fire-dogs 
(Louis XV.),  the  upright  cabinet  by  BomW«  (at  the  end  of  the  room), 
and  other  fine  cabinets  should  be  noticed. 

Room  XIII.  Dutch  and  Flemish  Schools  of  the  17th  Cen- 
tury. To  the  left:  234.  O.  Metsu,  Woman  selling  fish;  Terburg, 
235.  Lady  at  her  toilet,  236.  Lady  reading  a  letter;  *237.  Netscher, 
Lace-maker;  238.  Bemftraiwit,  Negro  archer;  239.  iV.Afa««, Housewife 
at  work;  *240.  Metsu,  The  letter- writer  surprized;  241.  K.  du  Jar- 
din,  Portrait;  243.  E,  van  der  Neer,  Lady  in  a  red  dress ;  242.  Metsu, 
Old  woman  asleep;  244,  248.  L.  JBakhuizen,  Sea-pieces;  246.  W, 
vande  Velde,  Landing  from  ships  of  war;  249.  Wynanti,  Landscape; 
*2ol.  Metsu,  Sleeping  sportsman;  254.  Eman,  de  Witte,  Church- 
interior;  262.  P.  Potter,  Cattle  in  stormy  weather.  —  211.  Brouwer, 
Boor  asleep;  210.  Tenters,  Delivery  of  St.  Peter;  209.  Jan  Steen, 


280  23.  WALLACE  COLLECTION.     The  West  End, 

A  boor  household;  213.  N,  Bercherriy  Landscape  with  equestrian 
figures;  217.  A.  van  der  Neer,  Skating-scene;  219.  P.  Potter y  Milk- 
maid ;  220.  W.van  Miens,  Vegetable-seller;  224.  N,  Maes,  The  listeli- 
ing  housewife ;  223.  Oonzales  Coques,  Family  group  ;  226.  Wouver^ 
man.  Landscape;  Teniers  the  Younger,  227.  Boors  carousing,  231 
(farther  on),  Soldiers  gambling ;  230.  J.  van  der  Heyde,  Exterior  of 
a  chureh. 

Room  XIV.  Dutch  and  Flemish  Schools  of  the  17th  Cbn- 
TUBY.  To  the  left:  W,  van  Mieris,  176.  Lady  and  cayalier,  178.  Boy 
with  a  drum;  *177.  Q.  Dou,  Hermit;  180.  Cuyp,  Cattle;  183,  185, 
186.  Berchem,  Landscapes;  192.  H.  G,  Pot,  Card-party;  197.  J.  van 
Ruysdctel,  Landscape;  198.  J.  Both,  Italian  coast-scene;  202.  A.  van 
Ostade,  Buying  flsh;  205.  P.  van  Slingelandt,  Courtship  scene.  — 
143,  145.  W.vande  Velde,  Sea-pieces;  147.  J.  van  8try,  Cattle; 
151.  A.  yan  der  Werff,  Venus  and  Cupid;  Jan  Steen,  150.  Guitar- 
player,  154.  Harpsichord  lesson,  158.  Tavern-scene;  152.  P.  Neeffa 
the  Elder,  Church-interior;  156.  J.  van  Ruysdael,  Landscape;  160. 
Wynants,  Landscape;  164.  Hobbema,  Landscape;  *166.  E,  Boursse 
(b.  1630),  Woman  cooking;  SchcUcken,  168.  Girl  watering  plants, 
171.  Girl  threading  a  needle;  173.  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  himself. 
—  The  glass-case  contains  Chinese  celadon  porcelain  with  French 
mounts;  goldsmiths'  work;  rock  crystal  and  other  precious  articles. 

Room  XV.  Fbenoh  and  British  Schools  of  the  19th  Century. 
To  the  left:  317.  Marilhat  (1811-47),  Palm-trees;  •SIS.  Decamps, 
Eastern  women;  320.  Delaroche,  State-barge  of  Card.  Richelieu. 
Richard  Bonington  (1801-28),  322.  Francis  I.  and  Margaret  of  Na- 
yarre,  323.  Henri  IH.  and  the  English  ambassador,  339.  Landscape 
(and  others  farther  on).  324.  Delacroix,  Faust  and  Mephistopheles. 
Meissonier,  325.  The  print- collector,  *327.  The  bravoes;  farther 
on  and  on  the  opposite  wall  several  others  by  this  master,  one  of 
which  (No.  369.  Dutch  Burghers)  is  supposed  to  be  his  earliest 
picture.  344  (above),  Troyon,  Watering  cattle;  345.  Decamps, 
Punishment  of  the  hooks ;  365.  Rosa  Bonheur,  A  shepherd's  dog;  Sir 
David  Wilkie,  352.  Scottish  lassies  dressing,  357  (farther  on). 
Sportsman  refreshing;  360.  Isdbey,  Promenade  by  the  sea;  370. 
Couture,  The  duel.  —  257.  Landseer,  Dogs ;  258.  David  Roberts^ 
Church-interior;  276.  P.  Delaroche,  The  little  princes  in  the  Tower; 
260.  Rosa  Bonheur,  Waggon  and  horses ;  Decamps,  259.  Arabs  re- 
posing, 261.  Finding  of  Moses,  263.  A  well  in  the  East;  Diaz, 
266.  Venus  and  Cupid,  268.  Cupid  and  nymphs;  274.  Q6ricault, 
Cavalry  skirmish;  279.  Cogniet,  Rebecca  and  the  Templar;  ♦281. 
Corot,  Macbeth  and  the  witches;  282.  Delacroix,  Execution  of  Marino 
Faliero;  283.  Rousseau,  Forest  of  Fontainebleau ;  301.  Oirome, 
Draught-players;  295.  Prudhon,  The  Zephyr;  314.  Delaroche,  Car- 
dinal Mazarin's  last  illness  ;  312.  Diaz,  Fountain  at  Constantinople. — 
This  room  contains  two  cabinets  of  Sevres  porcelain  (18th  cent.).  — 
We  now  retrace  our  steps  to  the  Great  Staircase, 


The  West  End.     23.  WALLACE  COLLECTION. 


281 


Oroond  Floor.  —  Room  I,  to  the  left  at  the  foot  of  the  staircasOf 
contains  portraits  of  loyal  personages  (664.  Sully,  Queen  Victoria; 
569.  Lawrenctj  George  IV.;  660.  Allan  Ramsay  ^  George  III.);  also, 
558.  Lawrence,  Lady  Blessington.  - —  Beside  the  mantelpiece :  1-4. 
Four  small  enamel -paintings  by  Henry  Bone  (1765-1834)  aftui 
Reynolds  and  Mme.  Le  Brun.  —  24,  26-31.  Furniture  in  Beauvais 
tapestry,  from  designs  hy  Oudry  ('Les  Chasses*).  On  the  tulip-wood 
writing-tahle  In  the  centre  is  an  Inkstand  made  by  command  of 
Napoleon  I.  for  presentation  to  Pope  Pius  Vil.  —  To  the  N.  is  — 

Room  II,  handsomely  decorated  in  the  18th  cent,  style,  with 
sumptuous  furniture  to  match.  On  each  side  of  the  entrance, 
screens  of  Lille  tapestry,  with  designs  by  Teniers;  clock  on  the 
mantelpiece  and  porphyry  yases  in  the  style  of  Louis  XIV. ;  chan- 
delier, candelabra,  and  clock  at  the  end  of  the  room  in  the  style  of 
Louis  XVL  —  To  the  right  is  — 

Room  III.  The  paintings  hung  in  this  room  belong  to  the  Eab- 
LiBB  Italian  and  Flemish  Schools  :  BramantinOj  *538  (over  the 
N.  flre-place),  Gian  Galeazzo 
reading  Cicero  (fresco),  537 
(adjacent),  Head  of  a  girl  (fres- 
co); *531  (over  the  S.  flre- 
place),  P.  PourbuSy  Allegorical 
love-feast;  ♦527.  Carlo  Crivelli, 
St.  Roch  (panel  of  a  triptych); 
579.  CHstoforo  de  Predis,  Duke 
of  Milan  praying  for  victory 
(illumination  on  vellum) ;  525. 
BeccafumifSiiAit]! ;  on  the  op- 
posite wall,  566.£ronsino,£lea- 
nora  di  Toledo,  Grand  Duchess 
of  Florence.  —  This  room  con- 
tains the  choice  collection  of 
Italian  Majolica,  arranged  In 
glass-casesby  the  walls.  Case  A. 
Majolica  from  Gubbio,  Diruto, 
and  Pesaro ;  also,  Hispano-Mau- 
resque  lustred  pottery ;  Case  B. 
Majolica  from  Urbino ;  sgraf- 
fiato  ware;  Case  C.  Majolica 
from  Faenza,  Castel  Durante, 
andCaffagiolo(early  16th  cent.) ; 

Case  D.  Majolica  from  Urbino  and  Rimini.  —  Case  E.  Enamelled 
pottery;  stoneware;  Venetian  glass.  —  Case  F.  Limoges  enamels; 
Palissy  ware;  Nniemburg  ware.  —  Cases  K.,  L.,  &  M.,  by  the  side- 
windows,  contain  caskets  in  metal  and  stamped  leather  (16-16th 
cent.).  In  K  also :  668.  Pair  of  pointed  shoes  fchaussures  h  pou- 
laine';  French,  15th  cent.);  667.  White  leather  shoes,  said  to  have 


282  '23.  WALLACE  COLLECTION.     The  West  End. 

belonged  to  Queen  Elizabeth;  in  L:  573.  Terracotta  head  of  John 
the  Baptist  (Ital.;  16th  cent.);  in  M:  578.  Miniature  boxwood  taber- 
nacle (Flem.  or  Germ.;  16th  cent.).  Between  Cases  K.  and  L. : 
30.  Large  oval  basin  in  Urbino  majolica  (1574);  on  the  wall  beyond 
Case  M. :  Virgin  and  Child,  in  glazed  terracotta,  by  Andrea  delta 
Rohbia.  —  The  desk-cases  in  the  centre  of  the  room  contain  mis- 
cellaneous small  works  of  art.  Case  Q.  MedalSy  PlaquetUs;  also  Ivory 
and  Boxwood  Carvings  (14-18th  cent).  Case  H.  Reliefs  and  Por^ 
traits  in  Coloured  Wax  (16-18th  cent.).  Case  J.  Small  works  in 
Metal  (12-17th  cent.):  498.  (S.  end  of  case)  'Bell  of  St.  Mura\  the 
bronze  case  (7th  cent.  ?)  of  a  bell  that  descended  from  heaven  on  the 
site  afterwards  occupied  by  the  Abbey  of  Fahan  (Ireland),  founded 
in  the  7th  cent,  by  St.  Muranas ;  508.  'Collier  du  Roi  de  I'Arc' 
(15th  cent.),  the  captain's  collar  of  a  Netherlandish  confraternity 
of  archers,  with  pendent  plaques,  the  dates  on  which  range  from 
1419  to  1826.  —  On  the  mantelpieces  are  bronzes,  busts,  vases, 
etc.  Beside  the  N.  mantelpiece  (itself  a  good  specimen  of  N.  Italian 
carving,  of  the  late  15th  cent.)  is  (23)  a  *Steel  mirror  in  a  carved 
walnut  frame,  with  the  emblems  of  the  Medici  (16th  cent);  25. 
Alabaster  relief  of  the  Resurrection  (English  School;  14-15th  cent.). 
—  This  room  is  adjoined  on  the  N.  by  — 

Room  IV,  the  walls  and  ceiling  of  which  are  lined  with  coloured 
tiles.  This  contains  a  standard- case  with  Arabian,  Venetian,  and 
German  glass  (94.  Hanging  lamp  from  a  mosque;  14th  cent.),  and 
two  table- cases  containing  respectively  silversmiths'  work  (13.  B^ni- 
tier,  23.  Silver  mirror  belonging  to  Marie  Antoinette)  and  work  in 
leather  (104.  Charles  II.'s  despatch-box).  By  the  wall;  5.  Terra- 
cotta bust  of  Charles  Lebrun,  by  M.  Coysevox;  9.  Maitle  bust  of 
Louis  XIV.,  ascribed  to  Coysevox.  The  steps  at  the  N.  end  of  the 
room,  flanked  by  polychromatic  busts  of  an  African  king  and  queen, 
ascend  to  B.  XV.  We,  however,  return  through  RR.  Ill  and  II  to  — 

Room  XI,  with  large  paintings  of  dogs  and  game  by  Oudry 
(1686-1755)  and  one  by  D^jportM  (No.  628;  over  the  mantelpiece). 
Three  frames  in  this  room  contain  Miniatures  (16-19th  cent),  in- 
cluding portraits  of  Holbein,  by  himself;  Oliver  Cromwell,  after 
Cooler;  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  by  Bcn^ ;  the  Duke  of  Marlborough ; 
Empress  Catharine  of  Russia;  and  numerous  portraits  of  the  Napo- 
leonic period  and  the  Restoration.  Case  A  contains  Italian  Bronze$ 
(16-17th  cent.).  In  this  room  also  are:  Houdon  (1741-1828),  1. 
Bust  of  a  French  princess,  4.  Bust  of  Mde.  de  Shrilly  (her  boudoir, 
see  p.  351);  Rysbrach  (1693-1770),  2.  Bust  of  Charles  I.,  3.  Bust  of 
Caroline,  consort  of  George  H. ;  16.  Bronze  statuette  of  Napoleon  I., 
after  Canova's  colossal  statue  in  Apsley  House  (p.  335). 

Room  X.  Fbench  and  British  Schools  of  the  19th  Cbntuby. 
To  the  left:  H.  Vemet,  607.  Dog  of  the  regiment  wounded,  613. 
Bead  trumpeter;  617.  O.  8.  Newton^  Portrait;  618.  Achenbachj 
Ebb-tide;  620.  JBe^^an^iT,  The  despatch ;  590-592.  22o&ef<,  Brigand 


The  West  End,     23.  WALLACE  COLLECTION.  283 

Bcenes;  594.  Desportes,  Dogs  and  dead  game;  601.  Saint -Jeatiy 
Flowers  and  fruit;  602./Sfant,  Portrait-study,  The  carvings  in  Case  A. 
(35.  Boxwood  statuette  of  Hercules)  and  the  illuminations  on  vel- 
lum in  this  room  repay  careful  inspection. 

Room  IX.  To  the  left :  576.  Heilbuih^  The  cardinal ;  578.  Por- 
trait of  Sir  Richard  Wallace;  680.  Oudiny  Coast -scene;  Bellanye, 
581.  A  Teteran  at  home,  586.  A  grenadier;  568.  Schopm,  Divorce 
of  the  Empress  Josephine;  573.  Sehtlfhout^  Winter  in  Holland; 
574.  Morlandy  The  visit. 

^Armoury.  The  furniture  and  bronzes  in  the  following  rooms 
should  not  be  overlooked.  Room  VHI,  adjoining  R.  X  on  the  W., 
contains  the  Oriental  Arms  and  Armour.  In  a  glass-case  opposite 
the  entrance  is  a  collection  of  Tobacco  Pipes.  On  the  middle  shelf,  at 
the  end  next  the  window,  is  Sir  Walter  Raleigh's  smoking  apparatus. 

Room  Vn.  This  and  the  following  rooms  accommodate  the  Euro- 
pean Armoury y  which  is  arranged  rather  decoratively  than  chrono- 
logically. The  finer  and  richer  specimens  are  exhibited  in  glass-cases. 
—  In  R.  VII  the  visitor  should  notice  the  series  of  early  swords,  from 
the  11th  cent,  onwards  (Nos.  12,  IB,  18,  etc.) ;  the  rapiers  in  Case  I 
(16 -17th  cent.);  and  the  arquebus  and  wheel-lock  muskets  in 
Cases  2-3,  Case  4  contains  helmets  of  the  14-16th  century.  By  the 
windows,  several  decorative  saddles.  —  Bronze  ♦Bust  of  Charles  IX., 
by  G.  Pilon  (d.  ca.  1590). 

Room  VI.  In  the  centre :  ♦564.  Gothic  suit  of  equestrian  armour 
(late  15th  cent.).  Case  5.  Cross-bows  and  serving-knives.  Case  6. 
Decorative  helmets,  swords,  and  daggers  of  the  Italian  Renaissance. 
Case  7.  Spurs  and  ivory  powder-flasks,  etc.  Case  8.  Flint  and  wheel- 
lock  pistols. 

Room  V  includes  various  objects  of  historical  interest.  864. 
Russet  and  gold  armour  of  Sir  Thomas  Sackville ;  ^1164.  Damascened 
suit  of  Alfonso  IL,  Duke  of  Ferrara  (16th  cent.) ;  ♦1199.  Equestrian 
suit  in  black  and  gold,  ascribed  to  the  Elector  Joseph  of  Bavaria, 
and  taken  from  the  arsenal  at  Munich  by  Napoleon  I.  Cases  10  ^  11. 
Decorative  defensive  armour  (16th  cent.);  No.  1330.  Circular  shield, 
attributedto  the  Emp.  Charles  V.  Case  12.  Nos.  1302, 1303.  Sword 
and  gauntlet  of  Henry,  Prince  of  Wales  (d.  1612) ;  1306.  Dagger 
presented  by  the  city  of  Paris  to  Henri  IV.  on  his  marriage  with 
Marie  de  M^dicis  (1599);  *1308.  Oval  shield,  embossed  and  dam- 
ascened, surmounted  by  the  monogram  of  Diana  of  Poitiers.  —  At 
the  end,  ♦Bronze  bust  of  Louis  XIV.,  attributed  to  Fr.  Oirardon 
(1628-1715),  and  two  spirited  bronze  groups  by  Michel  Andri 
Angvier  (1614-86).  —  On  the  wall  of  the  corridor  outside  this  room : 
Ceremonial  Dance,  a  high-relief  in  bronze  cast  in  Paris  about  1642, 
aftor  *Les  Danseuses  Borghese'  in  the  Louvre ;  collection  of  orna- 
mental door-knockers  (16-17th  cent.) ;  German  wood-carviug  of  the 
Circumcision.  —  We  now  return  through  RR.  IV  and  III  to  the 
entrance. 


284 


24.  Regent's  Park. 

Marylebone,    Zoological  Oardens,    Botanic  Gardens,   Primros:^  UiU. 
Lord's  Cricket  Oround, 

The  district  of  Marylebone  extends  on  both  sides  of  the  Mary- 
lebone Road  (PI.  R,  20,  16),  which  runs  from  the  N.  end  of  Great 
Portland  St.  (Portland  Road  Station,  p.  31)  to  the  Edgware  Road, 
passing  in  its  W.  half  a  little  to  the  S.  of  Regent's  Parlt.  The  name 
Marylebone  is  said  to  be  a  corruption  of  Mary  on  ISfbum  (Mary^ 
le-bourne)y  Tyburn  being  a  small  brook  coming  from  Kilbuin  and 
flowing  into  the  Thames.  It  crossed  Oxford  Street  a  little  to  the 
£.  of  the  Marble  Arch  and  flowed  through  St.  James's  Park,  leading 
its  mark  upon  Brook  Street ^  Grosvenor  Square,  and  notably  upon 
^Tybum\  that  melancholy  old  place  of  execution  situated  about 
the  lower  comer  of  Edgware  Road.  It  has  also  given  its  name  to 
Tyburnia,  the  quarter  of  London  situated  to  the  N.  of  Hyde  Park. 

New  Marylebone  Church,  situated  in  Marylebone  Road,  at  the 
corner  of  Nottingham  Place,  was  built  in  1817.  Robert  Browning 
was  married  in  this  church  in  1846.  Byron  was  baptised  in  Old 
Marylebone  Church  (rebuilt  in  1741  j  now  the  parish  chapel),  at  the 
top  of  Marylebone  High  Street  (PI.  R,  !iO).  The  grave  of  Charles 
Wesley  (d.  1788)  is  marked  by  a  small  obelisk  in  the  churchyard. 
The  previous  church  on  this  site  (built  in  1400)  figures  in  the 
'Rake's  Marriage'  by  Hogarth  (see  p.  209),  and  a  flat  tombstone  in 
the  churchyard  is  pointed  out  as  that  on  which  the  'Idle  Apprentice' 
played  dice  on  Sunday.  —  Farther  to  the  E.  in  Marylebone  Road 
are  the  large  buildings  of  Marylebone  Workhouse  (PI.  R,  20  j  i),  nearly 
opposite  the  imposing  premises  of  Madame  Tussaud^s  well-known 
waxwork  exhibition  (adm.,  see  p.  48),  which  are  close  to  the  Baker 
Street  Station  (^Pl.  U,  20  j  p.  29)  of  the  Metropolitan  railway.  To 
tlic  S.,  in  York  Place  (the  N.  portion  of  Baker  St.),  is  Bedford  Col- 
Uge  (PI.  R,  20;  i),  founded  in  1849  (in  Bedford  Square)  by  Mrs. 
E.  J.  Reid,  to  provide  women  with  a  thorough  liberal  education, 
without  any  religious  test.  This  institution,  a  school  of  London  Uni- 
versity, is  the  only  exclusively  women's  college  in  London  in  the 
faculties  of  arts  and  science,  and  it  is  the  only  women's  college  re- 
ceiving a  grant  frooi  government.  It  can  accommodate  300  students, 
and  provides  university  courses  in  science  and  aits,  general  and  spe- 
cial college  courses,  training  in  teaching,  and  scientific  instruction 
in  hygiene.  It  includes  an  art-school.  —  In  Marylebone  Road,  a  little 
farther  to  the  W.,  rises  the  large  Hotel  Great  Central  (p.  6),  behind 
which  is  the  Marylebone  Station  (p.  26).  —  Stations  of  the  Baker 
St.  &  Waterloo  Railway  in  this  neighbourhood,  see  p.  34. 

The  xefiidential  district  to  the  S.  of  the  Marylebone  Boad  is  of  little 
importance  to  the  tourist  (apart  from  the  Wallace  Collection,  p.  275),  but 
it  contains  numerous  houses  to  which  interesting  associations  attach.  Charles 
Dickens  lived  at  Ko.  1  Devonshire  Terrace  (corner  of  Marylebone  Boad  and 


TheWeatEnd,         24.  REGENT'S  PARK.  285 

High  Street)  from  1839  to  1851,  writing  there  ^Bamaby  Rudge%  ^Martia 
Chuzzlewit",  the  ^Christmas  Carol",  ^Dozubey  and  Son\  ^David  Gqpperfield\ 
and  other  works.  Sir  John  Herflchel  (1792-1871)  lived  in  1824-^  at  Ko.  56 
Devonshire  St.  (tablet).  At  "So.  84  in  the  same  street  is  the  Health  Exhibition 
of  the  Institute  of  Hygiene  (10-5,  Sat.  9-1 ;  adm.  6d.).  —  Harley  Street  (PI. 
B,  24^  /)  is  noted  as  the  physicians"  quarter  of  London.  No.  48  Queen 
Anne  St.  (now  No.  23)  was  for  many  years  the  abode  of  J.  M.  W.  Turner. 
"Wimpole  Street,  parallel  to  Harley  St.,  is  the  *long  unlovely  street"  of  Ten- 
nyson's ^In  Memoriam".  Henry  Hallam  lived  at  No.  67.  No.  50  (tablet)  was 
the  house  of  Mrs.  Browning's  father,  which  she  left  secretly  for  her  mar- 
riage (comp.  p.  284).  At  7  Bentinck  St.,  to  the  E.  of  Manchester  Square, 
Edward  Gibbon  maintained  *the  economy  of  a  solitary  bachelor"  from  1772 
to  1783,  writing  the  first  half  of  the  Decline  and  Fall.  Portman  Square,, 
see  p.  270.  Blandford  St.,  diverging  from  Baker  St.  to  the  E.,  contains  the 
house  (No.  2)  in  which  Faraday,  the  chemist,  served  his  apprenticeship 
(tablet). 

Begent'g  Park  (PI.  B,  15,  16,  19,  20)  was  laid  out  daring  the 
last  years  of  the  reign  of  George  III.,  and  derives  its  name  from 
the  then  Prince  Regent,  afterwards  George  IV.  It  occnples  the  site 
of  an  earlier  park  called  Marylebone  Park,  which  in  the  time  of 
Qneen  Elizabeth  was  filled  with  deer  and  game.  Under  the  Com- 
monwealth the  land  was  cleared  of  the  woods  and  ased  as  pasturage. 
Afterwards  trees  were  again  planted,  footpaths  constructed,  and  a 
large  artificial  lake  formed,  on  which  rowing-boats  may  be  hired. 

The  Park,  which  Is  one  of  the  largest  in  London,  embraces  472 
acres  of  ground  and  extends  from  York  Gate,  Marylebone  Road,  to 
Primrose  Hill.  Within  its  precincts  are  situated  Regents  Park 
Baptist  College  and  seyeral  private  residences,  among  whi«*.h  is 
St.  Dunstan's  Villa,  with  the  clock  and  the  automatic  figures  from 
the  church  of  St.  Dunstan's  in  Fleet  Street  (see  p.  149).  The  gardens 
of  the  Zoological  Society  (founded  by  Sir  Humphry  Davy  and  Sir 
Stamford  Raffles  in  1826)  occupy  over  30  acres  in  the  N.  part  of 
the  Park,  which  contains  also  the  gardens  of  the  Botanical  Society 
and  the  ToxophUite  (Archery)  Society.  The  Park  is  surrounded  by 
a  broad  drive  known  as  the  Outer  Circle  and  its  E.  portion  is  inter- 
sected from  N.  to  S.  by  the  Broad  WaUc,  which  is  not  open  to  car- 
riages. In  summer  a  band  plays  In  the  Park  on  Sun.  afternoons  in 
the  Kiosk  (rfmts.)  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Zoological  Gardens 
(PI.  B,  20). 

The  **Zoological  OardenB  (PL  B,  19),  or,  more  officially,  the 
Gardens  of  the  Zoological  Society ,  are  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Albert 
Road,  Primrose  Hill,  and  intersected  by  the  Regent's  Canal  and  the 
Outer  Circle,  which  here  run  parallel  with  each  other.  They  are 
thus  divided  into  three  portions,  which,  howeyer,  communicate  with 
each  other  by  means  of  a  tunnel  constructed  under  the  drive  and 
bridges  over  the  canal.  The  gardens  have  three  entrances  (see  the 
Plan),  viz.  the  Main  Entrance,  in  the  Outer  Circle;  the  South  En- 
trance,  in  the  Broad  Walk;  and  the  North  Entrance,  in  Albert  Road. 
A  number  of  new  enclosures  have  been  constructed  on  the  S.  side, 
the  animals  in  which  can  be  seen  from  Regent's  Park,  without 
entering  the  gardens. 


286  24.  ZOOLOGICAL  GARDENS.     TheWestEnd. 

The  Main  Entbance  is  about  1  M.  from  Regenfs  Park  Station  of  the 
Baker  St.  and  Waterloo  Railway  (p.  34),  about  IV4  M.  from  Portland  Road 
Station  (Metropolitan;  p.  31),  about  V*  ^-  ^^^  ^-  'John's  Wood  Road  Station 
(Metropolitan;  p.  4'20),  and  about  V4M.  from  the  stations  at  Chalk  Farm  of 
the  North  London  Railway  (p.  27)  and  the  Hampstead  Tube  (p.  36).  — 
Th6  SoDTH  Entkancb  is  about  */«  ^*  ^om  RegenCt  Park  StcUion^  about  1  M. 
from  Portland  Road  Station,  and  about  i/s  31.  from  the  Camden  Town  Station 
of  the  Hampsteid  Tube  (p.  36).  —  The  North  Entkancb  is  V«  M.  from  the 
Chalk  Farm  ttations,  V2  M.  from  Camden  Totm  Station^  and  >/«  ^'  from 
St.  John's  Wood  Road  (Metropolitan). 

The  Zoological  Society's  Gardens  are  open  daily  from  9  a.m.  to 
sunset ;  adm.  ia.,  on  Mon.  6d.,  children  half-price  except  on  Hon. ; 
on  Sun.  only  by  order  obtained  from  a  member.  The  number  of 
animals  is  about  2600,  including  790  mammals  and  1575  birds.  A 
military  band  plays  here  on  Saturdays  in  summer  at  4  p.m.  Good 
official  guide  (illus.;  1907)  Qd.    • 

Many  of  the  animals  conceal  themselves  during  the  day  in  their  holes 
and  dens,  under  water,  or  among  the  shrubbery,  the  best  time  to  visit 
them,  accordingly,  is  at  the  feeding-hour,  when  even  the  lethargic  carnivora 
are  to  be  seen  in  a  state  of  activity  and  excitement.  The  pelicans  are  fed 
lit  2.30,  the  otters  at  3,  the  eagles  at  3.30  (except  Wed.)«  the  beasts  of  prey 
at  4  (in  winter,  Nov.-Feb.,  at  3),  the  seals  and  sea-lions  at  4.80  (in  winter 
at  3.80),  and  the  diving  birds  (PI.  37)  at  12  and  5  p.m.  Children  may  enjoy 
the  delight  of  liding  on  elephants,  camel?,  and  so  on  for  a  small  fee.  — 
Those  who  have  not  time  to  explore  the  Gardens  thoroughly  had  better 
follow  the  route  indicated  below,  so  as  to  see  the  most  interesting  animals 
in  the  shortest  possible  time. 

On  entering  the  Outer  Circle  by  the  Main  Entb.ancb,  we  turn 
to  the  right,  and  first  reach  the  Western  Aviary  (PI.  1),  which  is 
170  ft.  long  and  contains  mainly  tropical  and  semi-tropical  birds, 
from  Australia  (bower-bird ;  laughing  jackass),  New  Guinea  (crowned 
pigeons),  Africa  (weaver-birds,  whydahs,  turacos),  and  America 
(toucans,  tanagers;  blue-birds,  cow-birds,  etc.).  Then,  returning 
between  the  Outdoor  Monkey  Cages  (PI.  2  j  baboons  and  macaque 
monkeys)  and  some  paddocks  used  for  bustards  and  other  large 
ground- bird 8,  we  reach,  on  the  left,  the  — 

*  Monkey  House  (PI.  3),  which  always  attracts  a  crowd  of  amused 
spectators.  The  unpleasant  odour  is  judiciously  disguised  by  nu- 
merous plants  and  flowers. 

We  next  turn  to  the  S.  and  enter  the  *  Apes'  House  (PI.  4), 
which  contains  some  of  the  most  interesting  inmates  of  the  Gar- 
dens in  the  form  of  specimens  of  the  anthropoid  or  manlike  apes. 
The  spacious  cages  here  are  separated  from  the  public  portion  of 
the  house  by  large  glass  partitions  in  the  interest  of  the  health  of 
the  inmates.  —  To  the  E.  is  the  Stork  and  Ostrich  House  (PI.  5), 
on  one  side  of  which  are  the  storks  and  cranes,  and  on  the  other 
(by  which  we  return)  the  ostrich'es,  rheas,  emeus,  and  cassowaries. 
Quitting  this  house  by  the  door  at  which  we  entered,  we  turn  to 
the  left  and  then  take  another  turning  on  the  right  leading  to  the 
Rodents  (PI.  6),  Swine  (PI.  7),  and  the  Southern  Aviary  for  Water 
Fowl  (PI.  8;  about  50  different  kinds).  Immediately  adjoining  the 
last  is  the  Sea  Lions'  Pond  (PI.  9),  shared  amicably  by  seals  and 


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TheWeatEnd,    U.  ZOOLOGICAL  GARDENS.  287 

penguins.  To  the  right  farther  on  are  a  series  of  enclosures,  open 
towards  Regent's  Park  (p.  286),  including  the  Sheep  Yard  (PI.  10), 
built  in  1885  for  ih^Burrhelj  or  blue  wild  sheep,  from  the  Himalayas. 
To  the  S.E.  of  this  point  are  the  Wolves  and  Foxes'  Dens  (PI.  11). 
Opposite,  to  the  N.  (see  Plan),  are  paddocks  with  various  kinds  of 
Oeese,  beyond  which  is  the  large  *Lion  House  (PI.  12),  which  is 
230  ft.  long  and  70  ft.  wide  and  contains  14  dens  for  lions,  tigers, 
leopards,  pumas,  and  Jaguars.  In  a  niche  in  the  wall,  in  the  middle, 
is  a  bust  of  Sir  T.  Stamford  Raffles  (1781-1826),  the  first  president 
of  the  Zoological  Society.  To  the  E.  of  the  Lion  House  is  the  Deer 
and  Cattle  House  (PI.  32),  with  large  deer  (wapiti,  red  deer,  sam- 
bur)  on  one  side,  and  cattle  (bison,  gayal,  and  British  wild  cattle) 
on  the  other. 

We  now  retrace  our  steps,  and  pass  along  the  open-air  enclosures 
at  the  back  of  the  Lion  House  to  the  Antdope  House  (PI.  13). 
Issuing  thence,  we  proceed  straight  on,  then  take  the  first  turning 
on  the  left  to  reach  the  New  Bird  House  (PI.  14),  containing  tropical 
small  birds,  among  which  the  toucans  and  tauagers  are  conspicuous. 
On  quitting  this  we  proceed  to  the  left,  past  the  Bear  Pit  (PI.  15), 
to  inspect  the  dens  containing  Bean  d^nd.  Hyenas  (PI.  15)  on  each  side 
(below)  of  the  terrace-walk ;  we  then  ascend  to  the  terrace  to  view  the 
bear-pit  and  the  Polar  Bears'  Den,  from  above.  A  little  farther  on  we 
leave  the  terrace-walk,  to  the  right,  and  reach  the  Pelicans'  En- 
closure  (PI.  18).  Then,  passing  the  *Oreat  Aviary  (PI.  17;  flamingo, 
ibis,  night-herons,  etc.)  on  the  right,  and  the  Eastern  Aviary 
(PI.  19;  hornbills,  trumpeters,  curassows)  on  the  left,  we  reach  the 
Camels  (PL  16),  stabled  below  the  Clock  Tower. 

We  here  turn  to  the  left,  and  pass  in  front  of  the  Fellows*  Tea 
Boom  to  the  Pavilion  Pond  (PI.  20a),  which  contains  more  water- 
fowl. To  the  right  is  the  Barbary  Sheep  Yard  (PI.  21),  beyond  which 
is  the  Llamas'  House  (PI.  22).  This  should  not  be  approached  too 
closely  on  account  of  the  unpleasant  expectorating  propensities  of 
its  inmates.  On  the  other  side  of  the  path  descending  hence  to  the 
tunnel  (p.  288),  which  we  pass  in  the  meantime,  is  the  Tunnel 
Pond  (PI.  23),  containing  mandarin  ducks.  Opposite,  on  the  right, 
are  the  Otters  (PI.  24)  and  to  the  N.E.,  on  the  left,  lies  the  Kestrels' 
Aviary  (PI.  25).  We  now  turn  to  the  right  and  proceed  to  the  south. 

We  first  reach,  on  the  left,  the  Small  Mammals'  House  (PL  26; 
chinchillas,  jerboas,  ratels,  etc.),  beyond  which,  on  the  same  side, 
are  the  Racoons  (PI.  28)  and,  on  the  right,  burrows  for  Foxes 
(PI.  27a)  and  Jackals  (PI.  27b).  Continuing  in  a  straight  direction 
past  the  back  of  the  refreshment -rooms  (seep.  288),  the  Kitea' 
Aviary  (PL  29),  the  Vultures  (PL  30),  and  another  small  aviary 
containing  Bateleur  Eagles,  we  reach  the  South  Entbance.  Beyond 
the  entrance,  on  the  left,  opposite  the  cattle-paddocks  (comp.  above) 
are  aviaries  containing  Pheasants  and  Peafowl  (PL  31).  We  now 
turn  to  the  left,  and  after  a  few  paces  reach  the  *Reptile  House 


288  24.  ZOOLOGICAL  GARDENS.     TheWestEnd. 

(PI.  33),  in  the  S,E.  angle  of  the  gardens.  This  contains  an  ex- 
tensive collection  of  large  serpents,  lizards,  alligators,  crocodiles, 
snapping  turtles,  frogs,  and  toads.  Just  beyond  it  is  the  Tortoise 
Housej  with  fine  specimens  of  giant  tortoises.  At  this  point  we 
turn  back  and  passing  between  the  Deer  House  and  the  Lion  House, 
reach  the  picturesque  Three  Island  Pond  (PI.  36)«  well  stocked  with 
waterfowl.  To  the  S.  of  this  pond  are  the  Ducks  (PI.  35),  adjoined 
by  the  Wading  Birds'  Aviary  (Pi.  35a).  We,  however,  turn  to  the 
N.,  skirting  the  Oreat  Lawn,  and  beyond  the  8quirrels(P\.  36a)  reach 
the  Diving  Birds'  House  (PI.  37),  containing  a  large  tank  in  which 
pengalns,  cormorants,  razor-bills,  and  other  diving-birds  are  fed 
twice  daily  (see  p.  286).  The  Refreshment  Rooms  (PI.  38,  39)  here 
afford  an  opportunity  for  a  rest. 

From  the  Refreshment  Rooms  we  proceed  towards  the  N.W. 
past  the  Eagles'  Aviaries  (PI.  40) ,  having  on  our  left  the  Band 
Stand  (PI.  41)  and  the  Kiosk  (PI.  41  a),  where  photographs  of  the 
animals  and  tickets  for  rides  on  the  elephants,  etc.,  are  sold,  and 
pass  through  the  tunnel  leading  into  the  middle  section  of  the 
gardens.  Here  we  take  the  first  turning  to  the  right,  and  passing 
an  Outdoor  Cage  (PI.  46),  the  tenants  of  which  vary,  proceed  to 
visit  the  Squirrels'  House  (PI.  47),  containing  various  rodents,  the 
Sloth  and  Ant-E<tters'  House  (PI.  43),  and  the  Kangaroo  Sheds  and 
Paddocks  (PI.  49,  50).  Thence  we  retrace  our  steps  to  the  Outdoor 
Cage,  turn  to  the  right,  and,  quitting  the  central  portion  of  the 
gardens  for  the  present,  cross  the  canal-bridge  to  the  N.  portion. 
Here,  facing  the  bridge,  is  the  Civets'  House  (PL  42),  next  to  which 
is  the  Cranes'  Winter  House  (PL  42b).  On  the  sloping  banks  of  the 
canal,  to  our  left,  are  the  Cranes'  Paddocks  (PL  42a),  in  one  of  which 
bustards  are  shown  at  present.  Farther  on  we  pass  the  North 
Entbanoe,  beyond  which  is  the  Insect  House  (PL  43),  containing 
tropical  moths  and  butterflies  and  other  insects.  In  this  house  are 
also  marmosets  and  other  mammals  and  birds  requiring  a  warm 
temperature.  Beyond  the  Insect  House  are  the  OwW  Aviary  (T\.  44) 
and  the  Northern  Pheasantry  (PL  45),  containing  pheasants  and  allied 
birds.  Farther  on  in  this  direction  is  the  Prince  of  Wales's  Ground^ 
originally  prepared  for  the  reception  of  the  Indian  animals  pre- 
sented by  the  Prince  in  1906.  According  to  the  official  catalogue 
this  area  is  to  be  devoted  to  the  exhibition  from  time  to  time  *of 
special  sets  of  animals  from  different  regions  of  the  British  Empire'. 
There  is  an  exit  from  the  gardens  at  the  farther  end. 

We  recross  the  canal  by  a  new  bridge  (beyond  the  limits  of  our 
Plan)  and  return  by  the  path  skirting  the  canal  and  passing  the 
lower  side  of  the  Moose  Yard  (PI.  59a;  with  Japanese  deer)  aud 
the  ^Parrots'  Aviary  (PL  56a),  In  which  cockatoos,  macaws,  and 
other  parrots,  herons,  and  crows,  etc.,  may  be  seen  flying  about. 
We  then  ascend  to  the  upper  path,  which  we  reach  opposite  the 
Moufflons'  Yard  (PL  56).   Immediately  to  the  W.  is  the  ^Elephant 


TheWestEnd.      24.  BOTANIC  GARDENS.  289 

and  Bhinoeeroa  House  (PI.  55),  containing  the  African  and  Asiatic 
varieties  of  these  animals,  next  to  which  is  the  Parrot  House  (PI.  54), 
containing  about  ninety  different  species  of  that  gaady  and  harsh- 
voiced  bird.  Farther  on  are  the  Thar's  House  (PI.  52)  and  the 
Brush  TStrkeys'  Enclosure  (PI.  51),  We  turn  here  and  proceed  to 
the  E.,  passing  a  Befreshment  Stall  (PI.  53)  on  the  left,  and  the 
Elephant  and  Rhinoceros  yards  on  the  right. 

No.  57  is  a  Deer  Shed;  No.  59  is  the  Superintendent's  Offiee. 
Proceeding  in  a  straight  direction,  we  reach  the  ^Hippopotamus 
House  (PI.  60),  the  Tapirs  (PI.  61),  and  the  Oiraffe  House  (Pi.  62). 
Beyond  are  theWild  Asses (F\.  63),  and  the  Zebras  (PI.  64).  Return- 
ing along  the  S.  side  of  these  houses,  we  reach,  on  the  left,  the  Wild 
Horses  from  Central  Asia,  the  Oaselles(F\,  65),  the  Beavers  (PI.  58), 
and  the  Meerkats  (PI.  58a).  A  little  way  farther  on  is  an  Exit^ 
which  takes  us  into  the  Outer  Circle,  opposite  the  main  entrance. 
Part  of  the  southern  portion  of  Regent's  Park  is  occupied  by  the 
Botanic  Oardens  (PI.  B,  20),  which  are  circular  in  shape,  and  are 
enclosed  by  the  drive  called  the  Inner  Circle.  Large  flower-shows 
take  place  here  on  three  Wednesdays  in  May  and  June,  which  are 
largely  attended  by  the  fashionable  world  (tickets  of  admission  sold 
at  the  gate  and  by  the  principal  ticket-agents).  Musical  promenades 
are  held  on  each  other  Wed.  from  May  to  August  (adm.  2a.  6d.). 
On  Mon.  and  Sat.  visitors  are  admitted  for  a  fee  of  la.,  and  on  Tues., 
Thurs.,  and  Frid.  on  presenting  an  order  of  admission  given  by  a 
Fellow  of  the  Botanical  Society.  Foreigners  are  admitted  on  appli- 
cation to  the  officials.  The  Museum  and  the  collections  of  economic, 
medicinal,  and  water  plants  are  very  interesting.  —  Skating  Fites 
are  held  at  the  Botanic  Gardens  in  winter  (comp.  p.  66). 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  Park  stands  St.  Katharine's  Boyal  College 
iate  Hospital,  with  its  chapel.  This  building  was  erected  in  1825 
in  substitution  of  one  which  formerly  stood  on  the  site  of  the 
St.  Katharine  Docks  (p.  141).  The  Hospital  was  originally  founded 
by  Matilda,  wife  of  King  Stephen  (1148),  and  was  renewed  by 
Queen  Eleanor,  wife  of  Edward  I.  (1273).  The  patronage  is  vested 
in  the  queens  of  England  and  forms  part  of  their  dower.  The 
foundation  consists  of  a  master  and  two  brothers,  in  holy  orders, 
and  three  sisters,  who  together  form  the  chapter.  Schools  for  boys 
and  girls  are  within  the  precincts.  The  chapel  contains  a  canopied 
tomb  of  a  duke  of  Exeter  (15th  cent.),  stalls  of  the  14th  cent.,  and 
a  fine  organ,  all  brought  from  the  original  hospital.  A  house  in 
the  close  was  granted  by  Queen  Victoria  to  the  superintendent  of 
the  Queen  Victoria  Jubilee  Nurses,  whose  office  adjoins  the  chapel. 
The  summit  of  Primrose  Hill  (PI.  B,  14;  205  ft.),  an  eminence  to 
the  N.  of  Regent's  Park,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  canal  and 
a  road,  commands  a  very  extensive  view.  On  the  E.  and  S.,  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach,  nothing  is  seen  but  the  roofs  and  spires  of 
the  stupendous  city  of  London,  while  on  the  N.  the  ^ecu  hills  of 
Baedeker's  London.    15th  Edit.  19 


290  25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     The  West  End. 

Hampstead  and  Highgate  form  the  picturesque  background  of  a 
landscape  'which  contrasts  pleasantly  with  the  dingy  buildings  of 
the  Metropolis.  At  the  S.  base  of  the  hill  there  is  an  open-air 
gymnasium ;  a  refreshment-room  has  also  been  opened.  A  'Shak- 
speare  Oak'  was  planted  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  hill  in  1864,  on  the 
tercentenary  celebration  of  the  great  dramatist's  birth. 

To  the  N.W.  in  Finchley  Road,  near  the  Swiss  Cottage  StaUon 
(Metropolitan ;  PI.  B,  10),  stands  New  College^  for  the  education  of 
Congregational  ministers.  Among  its  professors  have  been  some 
men  of  considerable  note.  It  contains  a  good  theological  library.  The 
building  was  erected  about  40  years  ago  in  the  midst  of  what  was 
then  green  fields,  and  is  admired  for  its  style  and  proportions.  -— 
Farther  out  in  the  Finchley  Road  (beyond  PI.  B,  6)  is  Hackney 
Congregational  College,  erected  in  1887  at  a  cost  of  about  23,000/. 

At  a  Abbey  Road,  about  Vs  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  Swiss  Cottage,  John 
Gibson  Lockhart  (d.  1854),  8on-ia-law  and  biographer  of  Sir  Walter  Scott 
and  editor  of  the  Quarterly  Review,  spent  some  of  his  later  years.  —  At 
the  junction  of  Abbey  Boad  and  Grove  End  Road  (PI.  B,  11,  12)  is  a  mon- 
ument to  Onslow  Ford,  the  sculptor  (1852-1901).  with  a  medallion  portrait 
by  A.  C.  Lucchesi  and  a  bronze  replica  of  Ford's  ^Muse"  from  the  Shelley 
Memorial  at  Oxford. 

Lord's  Cricket  Ground  (PL  B,  12;  p.  52),  in  St.  John's  Wood 
Road  (Metropolitan  station,  see  p.  420),  to  the  W.  of  Regent's  Park, 
is  thronged  with  a  large  and  brilliant  crowd  of  spectators  on  the 
occasion  of  the  principal  cricket- matches,  particularly  when  Cam- 
bridge is  disputing  the  palm  of  victory  with  Oxford,  or,  better  still, 
Eton  with  Harrow ;  and  it  then  presents  a  characteristic  and  impos- 
ing spectacle,  which  the  stranger  should  not  fail  to  see.  Admission 
on  ordinary  days  6d. ;  during  great  matches,  which  are  always  ad- 
yertised  beforehand.  Is.  or  2s.  Qd.  The  ground  was  purchased  by  the 
Marylebone  Cricket  Club  for  a  large  sum,  to  prevent  it  from  being 
built  upon.  The  pavilion  and  stands  enable  all  the  spectators  to 
have  a  good  view  of  the  game.  There  are  also  several  luncheon-bars 
and  a  telegraph-office. 

In  Maida  Hill  West  (PI.  R,  12),  a  little  to  the  S.  of  this  point,  is  a 
handsomte  Catholic  Apostolic  Church,  by  Pearson. 

25.  The  British  Museum. 

The  British  Museum  is  open  free  on  every  week-day  from  10  a.m.  till 
6  p.m.,  but  after  4  p.m.  in  Jan.,  Feb.,  Nov.,  and  Dec,  and  after  6  p.m.  in 
March,  Sept.,  and  Oct.,  some  only  of  the  galleries  remain  open,  viz.:  on 
Mon^  Wed.,  andFrid.,  the  MSS.,  King's  Library,  Porcelain  and  Glass,  Prints 
and  Drawings,  and  the  Prehistoric,  British,  Ethnographical,  and  MediSBval 
Collections;  and  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  the  Qreek  and  Boman  (except 
the  Vase  and  Bronze  Booms),  Egyptian,  Assyrian,  and  American  Collections 
and  the  Waddesdon  Boom.  The  Museum  is  open  on  Sun.  afternoon  from 
2  o'clock,  but  is  shut  on  Good  Friday  and  Christmas  Day.  —  Sticks  and 
umbrellas  are  left  in  the  hall.  The  excellent  general  ^Guide  to  the  Ex- 
hibition Galleries'  (price  2d.),  as  well  as  various  special  guides  and  cata- 
logues  may  be  obtained  in  the  hall,  or  from  the  attendants  in  the  various 
sections.  Good  photographs  of  several  of  the  most  interesting  drawings  and 
sculptures  in  the  Museum  may  be  purchased  in  the  chief  librarian's  office. 


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TheWestEnd.     26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  291 

The  nucleua  of  the  now  vast  contents  of  the  **Briti8h  Museum 
(PI.  R,  28;  //)  was  the  notahle  CoUonian  Library  (state  papers, 
Biblical  and  other  MSS.),  bequeathed  to  the  nation  by  Sir  John 
Cotton  in  1700  and  seriously  injared  by  a  fire  at  Ashburton  House 
in  1731 .  In  1753  an  Act  of  Parliament  was  passed,  proTiding  for 
the  purchase  of  the  Sloane  and  HarUian  CoUeetiont  and  for  deposit- 
ing these,  along  with  the  Gottonian  Library,  in  one  ^general  reposi* 
tory'  {Montagu  House^  bought  for  the  purpose),  which  was  opened 
to  the  public  in  1759.  The  sum  paid  to  the  executors  of  Sir  Hans 
Sloane  was  20,000^.,  being  in  his  opinion  about  one-fourth  of  the 
value  of  bis  books  and  collections.  The  Sloane  Collection  con- 
tained only  a  few  specimens  of  ancient  sculpture,  and  the  develop- 
ment of  this  important  branch  of  the  Museum  may  be  dated  from 
1772,  when  a  parliamentary  grant  rendered  possible  the  acqui- 
sition of  the  valuable  antiquities  collected  by  Sir  WiUiam  Hamilton, 
The  presentation  by  George  III.  of  a  collection  of  Egyptian  anti- 
quities in  1801,  and  the  purchase  of  the  Townley  Marbles  In  1805 
and  the  Elgin  Marbles  in  1816,  made  such  additions  to  the  original 
contents  that  a  new  wing  had  to  be  built  for  their  reception.  The 
Museum  continued  to  increase,  and  when  George  lY.  presented  it 
In  1823  with  the  King*s  Library,  collected  by  George  III.,  old 
Montagu  House  was  felt  to  be  quite  iuadequate  for  its  purpose, 
and  a  new  building,  designed  by  Sir  Robert  Smirke  and  completed 
by  his  younger  brother  5j/dnei/  Smirke,  was  erected  on  its  site  be- 
tween 1823  and  1855.  The  new  Reading  Room  (see  p.  319)  was 
added  in  1857,  and  in  1884  the  *White  Wing*,  on  the  S.E.  side 
(p.  318),  was  erected  from  a  bequest  by  Mr.  William  White.  A 
large  addition  on  the  N.  is  at  present  under  construction. 

The  contents  of  the  British  Museum  are  arranged  in  eight  sections,  each 
under  an  Under  Librarian  or  Keeper:  Printed  Books  (MafS  and  Plans), 
Minuscripts,  Oriental  Printed  Books  and  Manuscripts.  Prints  and  Drawings. 
Egyptian  and  Assyrian  Antiquities,  British  and  MeaisBval  Antiquities  and 
Ethnography,  Greek  and  Roman  Antiquities,  and  Coins  and  Medals.  The 
•Natural  History  sections  were  removed  to  South  Kensington  (see  p.  342)  in 
1883.  Wherever  it  is  practicable,  the  names  are  attached  to  the  difTerent 
objects.  For  a  thorough  study  of  the  collections  the  excellent  official  cata- 
logoes  are  indispensable;  for  a  hasty  vifit  the  following  directions  may 
suffice.  Courses  of  lectures  on  the  various  antiquities  of*  the  Museum  are 
delivered  here  by  experts  from  time  to  time. 

The  PsiNOiPAL  FA9ASB,  towards  (S.)  Great  Russell  Street,  with 
two  projecting  wings  and  a  portico  in  the  centre,  is  370  ft.  in 
length.  In  front  it  has  an  lonlo  ooloonade  of  44  columns.  The 
pediment  above  the  Portico,  which  is  borne  by  two  rows  of  eight 
•olumns,  is  adorned  with  sculptures  by  Weetmacott:  on  the  right. 
Progress  of  the  Human  Race;  on  the  left,  allegorical  figures  of 
Mathematics,  the  Drama,  Poetry,  Music,  and  Natural  Philosophy. 

The  Entbancb  Hall  measures  62  ft.  in  length.  The  statue  of 
Shakspeare  on  the  right,  at  the  entrance  to  the  library,  chiselled  by 
Roubiliao,  was  bequeathed  by  Garrick,  the  actor.    On  the  W.  side 

19* 


292  26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     TheWestEnd. 

of  the  hall  is  the  principal  staircase,  ascending  to  the  first  floor. 
On  the  left  and  right,  near  the  foot  of  the  staircase,  are  husts  of  the 
Duke  of  Marlborough  (by  Rysbrachi  and  the  Earl  of  Chesterfield. 
Higher  up  are  Buddhist  sculptures  (4th  cent.,  A.D.)  from  Amravati 
in  South  India. 

The  Room  of  Insobiptions,  to  the  N.  of  the  entrance-hall,  con- 
tains a  representatiye  series  of  Greek  and  Roman  inscriptions,  round 
the  walls,  and  also  a  few  sculptures. 

To  the  left:  Cinerary  urn;  marble  vases  with  Baechic  reliefs;  Oreek 
portrait-busta,  including  DemoBthenea,  Sophoelef,  and  Antiathenes;  1301. 
Female  ftatue  from  Cnidos;  1896.  Figure  in  armour,  with  the  head  of 
Hadrian.  In  the  centre  of  this  part  of  the  room :  2602.  Gratera  from  the 
Villa  of  Hadrian,  round  the  upper  part  of  which  are  reliefs  of  Satyrs 
making  wine.  —  To  the  right:  Cinerary  urn ;  Oreek  portrait'busts  of  Euri- 
pides, Diogenes  (?),  Hippocrates,  and  Epicurus,  and  one  (1833)  resembling 
Euripides;  1383.  Bust  of  Cornelius  Lentulus  Marcellinus,  propraetor  of 
Gyrene.  In  the  centre:  1886.  Equestrian  statue,  restored  as  Caligula. 
Behind  the  last,  2131.  Group  of  two  dogs. 

From  the  Hall  we  first  turn  to  the  right  into  the  Library,  and 
enter  the  room  which  contains  the  collection  of  20,240  yoIs.  be- 
queathed to  the  Museum  in  1847  by  Thomat  OrenviUe. 

The  glass-cases  contain  ^Illuminated  MSS.  from  the  10th  to  the  16th 
cent.,  arranged  according  to  the  countries  in  whi^  they  were  executed. 
Cask  1  (to  the  left).  Byzantine  School,  11 -13th  cent.i  English  School^  10- 
11th  centuries.  —  Casks  2  6  8.  English  School  16, 18,  7&.  Psalters;  *17.  Boll 
with  tinted  outline  drawings  from  the  life  of  St.  Outhlae  of  Croyland 
(12th  cent.);  19.  Miniature  of  St.  Dunstan;  21,  30.  Hours  of  the  Virgin;  23. 
Apocalypse;  24.  English  kings  from  Edward  the  Confessor  to  Edward  I. ; 
26.  Breviary,  of  the  East  Anglian  school  (1325);  33.  Lectionary  with  portrait 
of  the  ili\iminator.  —  Case  i.  French  School.  41.  Psalter;  43.  Treatise  on 
surgery ;  46.  Bible  history  moralized  (13th  cent.) ;  47.  Apocalypse ;  60.  Missal 
(14th  cent.)-,  51.  Order  of  the  coronation  of  the  king  and  queen  of  France 
(1365).  Below,  117.  French  romances,  presented  by  Talbot,  Earl  of  Shrews- 
bury, to  Margaret,  consort  of  Henry  VI.  —  Case  5.  French  School.  *'56,  67, 
64,  t)6.  Hoars  of  the  Virgin;  60.  History  of  Alexander  the  Great;  61.  Psalter 
with  miniatures  of  Henry  VI. ;  *66.  Memorabilia  of  Valerius  Maximus ;  70. 
Commentaire  de  la  Guerre  Gallique  (1520).  —  Case  6.  Flemish  School.  72. 
Missal  (15th  cent.) ;  *8i.  Statutes  of  the  Order  of  the  Golden  Fleece  (15th  cent.). 
—  German  School.  91.  Splendor  SoMs,  an  alchemical  work  (1582).  —  Case  7. 
Italian  School.  95.  Dante's  Divine  Comedy  (14th  cent.);  100.  Plutarch's  Lives  ; 
lUl.  Ethics  of  Aristotle  in  Spanish  (Jate  15th  cent.) ;  106.  Breviary.  Below, 
129.  Latin  Bible ;  130.  Address  from  the  town  of  Prato  to  Robert  of  Sicily 
(14th  cent.);  131.  Durandus  de  Divinis  Offlciis;  132.  Gradual  (i4th  cent.).  — 
An  unnumbered  case,  between  Cases  6  and  7,  contains  breviaries  and  horse 
of  the  15-16th  cent.,  presented  by  Baron  F.  Bothsdiild,  and  a  copy  of  Boc- 
caccio's Decameron  in  French  (15th  cent.),  bound  by  BertheM.  —  Cask  8, 
between  Cases  2  and  3,  contains  specimens  of  Bindings  o/  MSS,  of  the 
10-16th  centuries. 

We  next  enter  the  hall  containing  the  Mannioripti,  the  cases  in 
which  are  filled  with  numerous  interesting  autographs  and  treasures  of 
a  kindred  nature. 

Cask  I  (on  the  left,  divided  into  6  sections)  contains  a  complete  series 
of  autographs  of  English  Sovereigns  (Riohardlll.  excepted)  from  Richard  U. 
(1397)  to  Queen  Victoria  (pencil  signature  vrritten  in  1828,  at  the  age  of  four 
years).  The  last  section  contains  autographs  of  foreign  sovereigns :  CharlesV., 
Henri  IV.,  Louis  XIV.,  Peter  the  Great,  Frederick  the  Great,  and  Napoleon  1. 

Cask  II  contains  historical  autographs  and  papers  from  1432  to  1595. 
Autographs  of  Perkin  Warbeck,  Card.  Wolsey,  Sir  Thos.  More,  Abp.  Cran- 


TheWestEnd.     26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  293 

mer,  and  Bishop  Latimer  ^  declaration  signed  by  Granmer  and  seven  bishops ; 
letter  and  leaf  from  the  diary  of  Edward  VI.*,  letter  of  Lady  Jane  Grey; 
description  of  the  execution  of  Queen  Mary  Stuart,  and  sketch  of  the  room 
at  Fotheringay  in  which  her  trial  was  held;  autographs  of  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots,  Lord  Burghley,  James  VI.,  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  Sir  Francis  Drake, 
Sir  Philip  Sidney,  Sir  John  Hawkins,  and  others. 

Gasb  III  (opposite  the  last)  contains  historical  autographs  and  docu- 
ments of  1695-1689.  Autographs  of  Bacon.  Queen  Elizabeth,  Robert  Cecil, 
Arabella  Stuart,  Abp.  Laud,  Hampden,  Fym,  Cromwell,  Prince  Rupert, 
Hilton,  Charles  II.,  Claverhouse,  Duke  of  Monmouth  (begging  his  life),  and 
'William  III. ;  instruction  by  Charles  I.  for  the  impeachment  of  the  Five  Mem- 
bers (16A2),  and  a  letter  by  him  when  a  captive  at  Carisbrooke  Casile  (1648). 

Casb  IV  (opposite  Case  I)  contains  similar  documents  of  1690-1885, 
including  autographs  of  the  Old  Pretender,  Marlborough,  Bolingbroke, 
Robert  Walpole,  the  Young  Pretender,  Clive,  Pitt  (Earl  of  Chatham),  War- 
ren Hastings,  'Junius^  George  Washington,  the  younger  Pitt,  Burke,  Fox, 
Sheridan,  Kelson  (sketch-plan  of  the  battle  of  the  Nile,  1798,  and  unfinished 
letter  to  Lady  Hamilton  on  the  eve  of  Trafalgar,  1805),  Duke  of  Wellington 
(list  of  his  cavalry  at  Waterloo,  written  just  before  the  battle,  and  a  letter), 
Palmerston,  Peel,  Disraeli,  Gladstone,  Gen.  Gordon  (last  page  of  his  diary), 
and  Queen  Victoria  (letter  to  Miss  Gordon). 

Case  V,  at  right  aneles  to  Case  III,  contains  a  collection  of  charters, 
ranging  in  date  from  7o6  to  1216  and  including  documents  of  the  Saxon 
Eadred,  Canute  the  Dane,  Henry  I.,  Richard  Coeur-de-Lion,  etc.  In  the 
triangular  part  of  the  case  is  a  collotype  copy  of  the  articles  of  Magna 
Charta  (1215),  two  original  copies  of  which  may  be  seen  on  application 
to  the  attendant  in  the  Students'  Room  (to  the  S.).  —  Casb  VI,  at  right 
angles  to  Case  II,  contains  charters  from  1220  to  IMS. 

Gasbs  VII  and  VIIT,  on  either  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  Students' 
Room,  contain  literary  and  other  autographs.  Those  in  Case  VII  are 
English  and  include  autograph  writings  of  Jeremy  Taylor,  Wren,  Dryden, 
Locke,  Newton,  Swift,  Pope,  Steele,  Addison,  Richardson,  Fielding^  Chester- 
field (letter  in  French  to  his  son),  Hogarth,  Wesley,  Goldsmith,  Reynolds, 
Gainsborough,  Johnson,  Boswell,  Chatterton,  Hume,  Gibbon;  Garrick,  Mrs. 
Sid  dons,  Wilkie,  Turner,  Cowper,  Bums  (song),  Coleridge,  Wordsworth, 
Lamb,  Byron,  Shelley,  Keats,  Jane  Austen,  Tennyson,  Mrs.  Browning, 
Browning,  Charlotte  Bronte,  Lord  Brougham,  Macaulay,  Dickens  (his  last 
letter),  Thackeray,  Carlyle,  and  Bume- Jones.  —  Among  the  foreign  auto- 
graphs in  Case  VIII  are  those  of  Erasmus,  Luther,  Calvin,  Michael  Angelo, 
Titian,  Ariosto,  Galileo,  Rubens,  VanDyck,  Rembrandt,  Montaigne,  Moliere, 
Corneille,  Racine,  Voltaire,  Rousseau,  Victor  Hugo ;  Leibnitz,  Kant,  Goethe, 
Schiller,  Heine,  Handel,  Bach,  Haydn,  Mozart,  Beethoven,  Mendelssohn, 
Schumann,  Schubert,  and  Wagner. 

The  corresponding  Cabbs  X  and  XI,  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  room, 
to  the  left  and  right  of  the  entrance  to  the  King's  Library,  and  Case  IX 
on  the  left,  exhibit  a  series  of  autograph  literary  works,  etc.  In  Case  IX 
are  royal  bcoks:  treatise  on  the  Sacrament  by  Edward  VI.;  the  prayer- 
book  of  Lady  Jane  Grey ;  a  book  of  prayers  copied  out  by  Queen  Eliza- 
beth; original  MSS.  of  James  I.  and  Charles  I.  —  In  Case  X:  Percy  Bal- 
lads; autographs  of  Francis  Bacon,  Raleigh,  and  Een  Jonson;  Milton's 
Family  Bible,  with  notes  in  his  hand,  and  his  Commonplace  Book ;  auto- 
graphs of  Locke,  Butler  (part  of  ^Hudibras'),  Defoe,  Pope,  Sterne  (^Senti- 
mental Journey'),  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson,  Gibbon,  and  Cowper  ('John  Gilpin'). 
—  In  Case  XI:  Autographs  of  Gray  ('Elegy'),  Burns  ('Autobiography'), 
Byron  ('Childe  Harold'),  Coleridge,  Lamb,  Southey,  Scott  ('Kenilworth'), 
Shelley,  Keats,  Macaulay,  Charlotte  Bronte,  George  Eliot  ('Adam  Bede'), 
Herbert  Spencer,  Tennyson  ('Idylls  of  the  King'),  Newman  ('Dream  of 
GeronUus'),  Leonardo  da  Vinci  (note-book),  Michael  Angelo,  Albrecht  Diirer 
(sketch-book).  Lope  de  Vega,  and  Tasso  ('Torismondo'). 

Against  the  pilasters  are  upright  cases  (G  &  H)  containing  early 
Biblical  manuscripts.  In  Casb  G,  adjoining  Case  XI  (N.W.),  are  a  volume 
of  the  Codex  Alexandrinus  and  the  Gospel  of  St.  Luke  in  Greek  (Codex 
Nitriensis).  The  former,  dating  from  the  5th  cent.,  ranks  with  the  Codex 


294  26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     The  West  End, 

Sinaiticus  at  St.  Petersburg  and  the  Codex  Vaticanus  at  Borne  (facsimiles 
of  these  above)  as  one  of  the  three  oldest  Greek  MSB.  of  the  Bible.  — 
Cask  H  contains  illuminated  copies  of  the  Vulgate  (6-13th  cent.)  ^  a  copy 
of  Wyeliffe's  Bible  (Uth  cent.),  with  illuminations.  Adjoining  Case  H, 
on  the  pilaster,  are  an  autograph  of  Edmund  Spenser  j  the  deed  of  sale 
of  ^Paradise  Lost",  witti  Milton's  signature;  and  an  autotype  facsimile  of 
a  mortgage  by  Shakspeare. 

Casks  A-E,  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  contain  Greek,  Latin,  and  other 
MSS.,  arranged  to  show  the  progress  of  the  art  of  writing.  A.  Greek 
papyri,  brought  from  Egypt,  including  portions  of  Plato,  Bacchylides.  Homer, 
and  Aristotle  (only  extant  MS.  of  his  ^On  the  Constitution  of  Athens*). 
Another  Greek  MS.  hangs  on  the  wall  near  Case  IX.  '—  B.  Greek  MSS. ; 
wax-tablet  containing  two  lines  written  by  a  schoolmaster  and  copied 
twice  by  a  pupil.  —  C,  D.  Latin  and  other  MSS.  —  E.  English  MSS. :  a 
unique  copy  of  Beowulf,  on  vellum  (ca.  1000  A.D.)*,  Anglo-Saxon  Chron- 
icle to  lOOiB;  Piers  Plowman  (before  UOO);  poem  by  Occleve,  with  a  por- 
trait of  Chaucer  on  the  margin  (early  15th  cent.).  —  Cask  F,  in  the  centre, 
contains  chronologically  arranged  MS.  sources  of  English  history,  showing 
how  the  history  was  recorded  before  the  invention  of  printing j  2.  Bedels 
Ecclesiastical  History;  3.  Anglo>Saxon  (Jhronicle;  4.  Wace^s  Roman  de 
Bou:  12.  Matthew  Paris,  etc. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  Newspaper  Room  (E.)  are  two  glass-cases  (L 
and  M)  with  impressions  of  the  Great  Seals  of  the  British  sovereigns  (left) 
and  of  various  baronial  and  ecclesiastical  seals  (right). 

In  frames  attached  to  the  wainscot  to  the  left  (W.)  of  the  entrance  to 
the  King's  Library  are  hung  several  Detdty  including  photographs  of  two 
copies  of  Magna  Charta  (see  p.  293).  —  To  the  left  is  a  series  of  Papyri 
Cfoar  in  Coptic,  one  in  Greek),  relating  to  the  monastery  of  St.  Phcebammon, 
near  Hermonthis,  Egypt,  and  a  counterpart  of  the  deed  of  conveyance  of 
the  land  on  which  Melbourne  now  stands.  —  To  the  right  of  the  entrance 
to  the  King's  Library  are  a  case  and  frames  containing  recent  acquisitions 
by  the  library. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  Manuscript  Saloon  is  the  MS.  Room  for 
Students.  The  door  to  the  E.  opens  on  the  corridor  leading  to  the 
Newspaper  Reading  Boom  and  to  the  staircase  ascending  to  the 
Print  Department  (see  p,  318).  —  On  the  N.  it  is  adjoined  by  the 
King's  Library,  a  collection  of  65,000  vols.,  20,000  pamphlets, 
and  namerous  maps,  prints,  and  drawings,  made  by  George  III. 
and  presented  to  the  nation  by  George  lY.,  and  arranged  in  a  hall 
built  for  the  purpose,  which  extends  along  the  whole  breadth  of 
the  building.  The  collection  is  remarkable  for  the  beauty  and  rarity 
of  Ihe  works  contained  in  it.  The  glass-cases  in  this  handsome 
hall  contain  a  choice  exhibition  of  rarities  and  objects  of  special 
interest  selected  from  all  departments  of  the  library.  Temporary  ex- 
hibitions illustrating  special  periods  are  held  here  from  time  to  time. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  hall  are  four  cases  containing  a  selection  of 
Oriental  MSS.,  some  of  which  are  of  great  beauty  and  value. 

Next  follow  a  series  of  cases^  arranged  on  each  side  of  Uie  hall,  con- 
taining typographical  specimens  m  illustration  of  the  history  of  printing. 

Casb  I.  Collection  of  'block-books',  i.s.  books  printed  from  carved 
bloclcs  of  wood.  Among  them  are  two  specimens  of  the  Biblia  Pauperum  ; 
Ars  moriendi  (ca.  1460)$  Defensorium  Inviolatse  Castitatis  Beatee  Virginis 
(1470);  Mirabilia  Bomee;  German  calendar  of  Regiomontanus,  printed  at 
Nuremberg  in  1474,  the  earliest  known*,  Planetenbnch,  or  book  of  the 
planets  (1470)«  etc. 

Cabes  U-V  are  occupied  by  the  earliest  German  printed  books,  includ- 
ing the  Mazarin ,  or  *42-line%  Bible ,  the  first  printed  Bible,  printed  by 
Gutenberg  (Mayenee,  1455;  a  copy  of  this  Bible  was  sold  in  1887  for  40001.); 


neWeHEnd,    25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  295 

L«tin  Bible,  printed  probably  at  Bamberg  in  1461  \  the  first  psalter,  printed 
on  parchment  in  1457  by  Fnet  and  Schoeffer  (the  first  printed  book  bearing 
a  date);  similar  ptalter  nrinted  by  the  same  in  1459  (a  copy  of  this  psalter 
was  sold  in  1884  for  49501.,  a  record  price  for  »  printed  book)',  Bible 
printed  by  Fast  and  Schoeffer  in  1462  (the  first  printed  Bible  bearing  a 
date);  Qerman  Bible  printed  at  Kuremberg  in  1488;  iEsop's  Fables  (il- 
lustrated; 1488):  first  illustrated  edition  of  Virgil  (Strassbnrg ;  1608); 
Theutfdank,  with  illustrations  by  Hans  Schanfelein  (Nuremberg;  1517). 

Oabbs  vI  and  VII  contain  examples  of  Italian  typography :  Lactan- 
tius,  printed  at  Subiaco  by  Schweinheim  and  Pannarti  in  1466,  the  first 
dated  work  printed  in  Italy ;  Apuleius,  printed  at  Rome  in  1469  by  Schwein- 
heim and  Pannarti,  on  Tellum;  Cicero,  Bpistolse  ad  Familiares,  the  first 
book  printed  at  Venice  (1469)  |  Monte  Santo  di  Dio  (Florence,  1477),  the 
first  book  with  engraved  illustrations;  Biblia  yulgare  istoriata  (Venice; 
1490),  the  earliest  illastrated  Italian  Bible;  Virgil,  by  Aldus  (Venice, 
1601) ,  the  first  book  in  Italic  type  (said  to  be  an  imiUtion  of  Petrarch's 
handwriting). 

Casb  VIII  contains  French  printing  :  Barsizius,  Epistolte  (Paris,  1470), 
the  first  book  printed  in  France;  New  Testament  in  French  (Lyons; 
ca.  1478);  second  edilion  of  the  Samm  Missal,  printed  at  Bouen  in  1492 
for  English  use ;  two  Books  of  Hours  (1489  and  uOl). 

Gasb  IZ.  Dutch  printing:  Reynaert  die  Vos  (Gouda;  1479),  the  first 
edition  in  any  language. 

Gabb  X.    Printing  in  Spain  (1475-1499). 

The  next  six  cases  illustrate  Engliah  printing.  Casx  XI.  Books  printed 
by  William  Caxton,  who  introduced  printing  into  England  (p.  224):  The 
Dictes  or  Sayengis  of  the  philosophers  (1477;  the  first  book  printed  in 
England);  the  first  printed  edition  of  Chaucer's  Canterbury  Tales,  about 
1478;  Latin  Psalter  (ca.  1482;  unique);  St.  Bonaventura,  Speculum  Vitse 
Christi  (oa.  1488:  on  yellum).  On  the  other  side  of  the  case  are  books 
printed  at  Oxford,  St.  Albans,  and  London,  includiojg;  ^The  Book  of  St. 
Albans',  a  book  of  the  chase,  printed  at  the  Abbey  of  St.  Albans  in  1486. 

Cabb  XII.  Books  printed  by  Wynkyn  de  Worde,  Caxton^s  successor, 
and  by  Bichard  Pynson,  printer  to  Hennr  Vin. 

Cass  XIII.  English  printing  in  the  16th  century :  First  edition  of  Cran- 
mer*8  Bible  (London;  1540),  on  Tellum;  Fox's  Book  of  Martyrs  (London; 
1563).  On  the  other  side  of  this  case  are  Enelish  books  printed  abroad, 
including  the  earliest  printed  English  Bible  (1535),  translated  by  Tyndale 
and  Coyerdale;  and  the  only  known  fragment  of  the  unfinished  first  edition 
of  Tyndale's  Kew  Testament  (Cologne ;  1525). 

Cass  XIV.  Later  English  printing:  Horace  Walpole's  Strawberry  Hill 
press  (1757);  BaskenriUe  (1759);  Thomas  Bewick  (18(8);  and  several  works 
from  William  Morris's  Eelmscott  press  (1891-96).  On  the  other  side  of  this 
case  are  specimens  of  early  priming  in  Scotland,  Ireland,  Massaehusetts, 
(Quebec,  Cape  of  Oood  Hope,  Tasmania,  and  Kew  South  Wales. 

Cass  XV.  First  edition  of  the  'Authorized  Version'  of  the  Bible  (1611) ; 
first  edition  of  the  Book  of  Common  Prayer  (1549) ;  first  folio  of  Shak- 
speare  (1623);  first  quarto  of  Romeo  and  Juliet  (1597;  bequeathed  by  David 
Garrick);  first  quarto  of  The  Merchant  of  Venice  (1600). 

Cass  XVI  contains  copies  of  the  first  editions  of  many  English  classics : 
Tottel's  Miscellany  (1567);  Spenser's  Faery  Queene  (1590);  Bacon's  Essays 
(1897) ;  Paradise  Lost  (1867) ;  The  Pilgrim's  Progress  (167^ ;  Robinson  Crusoe 
(1719);  Gulliver's  Travels  (1726):  Bums's  Poems  (178^;  Lvrical  BaUads 
(by  Wordsworth  and  Coleridge;  1798);  Tennyson's  Poems  (1830),  etc 

Opposite  are  three  cabinets  containing  a  collection  of  Postage  Stamps^ 
bequeathed  by  M.  K.  Tapling,  M.  P.,  in  1891.  The  sliding  frames  may  be 
pulled  out  by  the  visitor. 

In  Cass  XVII  are  specimens  of  early  Greek  and  Hebrew  printing,  in- 
cluding Lascarls  .Greek  Grammar  (Milan,  1476),  the  first  printed  Greek 
work,  and  Two  Homilies  of  St.  Chrysostom  (London,  1643),  the  first  Greek 
book  printed  in  England. 

Cass  XVUI  contains  books  with  coloured  woodcut  illustrations  (15- 
16th  cent). 


296  25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     The  West  End. 

In  Ca8B  XIX  are  exhibited  recent  acquisitions  of  printed  books.  Gasb  XX 
if  devoted  to  early  maps  and  atlases. 

Casbs  XXI  and  XXII  are  assigned  to  the  illustration  of  early  music- 
printing.  The  choir-books  and  full  scores  in  the  lower  parts  of  these  cases 
should  be  noticed. 

Gabbs  XXIII  and  XXIV  have  specimens  of  Chinese,  Japanese,  and 
Corean  printing  and  book  illustration.  The  Buddhist  Dharani  (8th  cent.) 
are  the  earliest  known  examples  of  printing  in  the  world. 

Gases  XXV-XXVni  are  devoted  to  temporary  exhibitions,  usually  changed 
about  once  a  year.  In  1908  they  contained  illustrations  of  wood-engravings 
as  applied  to  book-illustration. 

On  the  following  six  screens  are  portrait-drawings  by  Rudolf  Lehmann. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  hall  a  series  of  six  cases  are  filled  with  beautiful 
specimens  of  Bookbindings^  in  continuation  of  the  exhibition  of  the  bindings 
of  M8S.  in  Case  Vin  in  the  Grenville  Boom  (p.  292).  —  Gases  XXIX  and 
XXX  contain  sumptuously  bound  books  from  royal  collections.  —  Cases 
XXXI-XXXIV  illustrate,  in  chronological  order,  the  history  of  bookbinding 
in  Germany,  Italy,  France,  and  England. 

In  the  lower  portions  of  several  cases  are  placed  the  5090  vols,  (bound 
in  about  1000)  of  the  Chinese  Eneyclopsedia,  a  reprint  of  standard  Chinese 
works  from  1150  B.C.  to  1700  A.D.,  published  in  1726. 

At  the  end  of  the  King's  Library  is  a  staircase,  leading  to  the 
collections  of  oriental  art  and  ethnography  (comp.  p.  318).  In  the 
meantime,  however,  we  retrace  our  steps  to  the  entrance-hall,  and 
pass  out  of  it,  to  the  left,  into  the  *8cnlptTire  Gallery.  To  the  right 
of  the  entrance  is  a  statue  of  Mrs,  Darner,  the  sculptress,  from  a 
model  by  Geracchl.    The  first  room  we  enter  is  the  — 

Bomftn  Gallery.  On  the  left  side  are  Roman  antiquities 
found  in  England.  The  compartments  below  the  windows  con- 
tain rough-hewn  sarcophagi,  while  by  the  Intervening  pilasters 
are  specimens  of  old  Irish  characters  (Oghams).  AboTe,  on  the 
walls  to  the  right  and  left,  are  fragments  of  Roman  mosaic  pave- 
ments, discovered  In  England.  On  the  right  (N.)  side  of  the  room 
is  ranged  a  collection  of  Roman  portrait  busts  and  statues  (the 
numbering  begins  at  the  W.  end  of  the  gallery):  1870.  Julius 
Cfflsar;  1876.  The  youthful  Augustus ;  1877-79.  Augustus;  1881. 
Tiberius ;  1880, 1882.  Drusus  the  younger  j  1988.  Iconic  female  figure; 
1155.  Claudius;  1887.  Nero;  1888.  Otho;  2005,  1891.  Empresses 
(unidentified);  1893.  Trajan;  above,  1891.  Head  of  Titus;  1896, 
1897.  Hadrian;  1898.  Julia  Sabina,  Hadrian's  consort,  or  Matldia, 
his  mother;  1940.  Commodus  (?);  1901.  Antoninus  Pius;  1381. 
Statue  of  Hadrian  in  civil  costume ;  *1463.  Antoninus  Pius ;  1904. 
Faustina  the  elder ;  1907,  1464.  Marcus  Aurellus ;  1905.  Faustina, 
his  consort;  1925.  Roman  lady  named  Olympias;  1913.  Commodus; 
1909.  Lucius  Verus  (?);  1912  (above),  Lucilla,  his  consort;  1914. 
Crisplna,  consort  of  Commodus;  1911.  Lucius  Verus;  1915.  Pertlnax ; 
1916.  Septlmius  Severus;  1415.  Iconic  female  figure ;  1917.  Cara- 
calla;  1920.  Julia  Mamssa,  mother  of  Alexander  Severus;  1921, 
1922.  Gordian  and  Sabinia,  his  wife;  1923.  Otacilia  Severa  (?), 
wife  of  Philip  the  Elder;  1924.  Herennia  Etrus cilia,  wife  of  Tra- 
janusDecius;  2009.  Julia  Paula  (?),  wife  of  Heliogabalus ;  1926. 
Portrait  bust,  on  an  antique  pedestal.  —  We  next  reach  the  — 


The  West  End.     25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  297 

First  GrflBCO-Boman  Boom.  This  and  the  two  following  rooms 
contain  scnlptares,  executed  in  Italy,  but  chiefly  by  Greek  artists 
or  from  Greek  models ;  also  a  few  Greek  originals. 

To  the  right  of  the  entrance,  1747.  Statue  of  a  hero;  1648. 
Youthful  satyr ;  1545.  Oeres,  with  attributes  of  Isis.  —  To  the  left 
of  the  entrance:  500.  Sadly  injured  Roman  copy  of  the  Diadume- 
nos  of  Polycleitos,  from  Vaison,  in  France.  Then,  farther  on:  1825. 
Bust  of  Homer;  1831.  Bast  of  a  Greek  poet;  1558.  Statue  of  Arte- 
mis ;  *1380.  Apollo  Githarosdus,  found  in  the  Temple  of  Apollo  at 
Cyprus  (replica  in  the  Capitol  at  Rome);  1578.  Statue  of  Venus; 
1899.  Head  of  Antinous,  with  the  ivy-wreath  of  Bacchus;  *1655. 
Dancing  Satyr  (from  the  Palazzo  Rondanini  at  Rome);  1656.  Satyi 
playing  with  the  infant  Bacchus  (from  the  Palazzo  Famese  at  Rome). 
By  the  W.  door,  1571, 1572,  1569.  Heads  of  Athena;  1516.  Head 
of  Jupiter;  1606.  Statue  of  Dionysos,  from  Posilipo,  akin  to  the 
so-called  Sardanapalus  in  tbe  Vatican  and,  like  it,  a  work  of  the 
4th  cent.  B.C. ;  1746.  Caryatid.  —  In  tbe  upper  part  of  the  S.  wall 
are  three  carved  fronts  from  Roman  sarcophagi. 

Second  OrsBCO-Boman  Boom.  In  the  recess  on  the  left :  *1574.  The 
Townley  Venus,  showing  the  influence  of  Praxiteles,  found  at  Ostia; 
opposite,  250.  Discobolos,  or  the  *  quoit- thrower'  (ancient  copy  of 
the  bronze  statue  by  Myron).  In  the  corners  on  each  side  of  the 
door,  1C66,  1667.  Paniskos  or  Youthful  Pan,  both  bearing  the  name 
of  the  artist,  Marcus  Cossutius  Cerdo.  Beside  the  door,  1580.  Torso 
of  Venus,  1676.  Cupid  on  a  dolphin,  in  basalt.  Opposite,  1577. 
Venus;  1603.  Youthful  ideal  head;  1608.  Hermes  of  Dionysos; 
1647.  Young  satyr. 

Third  Gxeeco-Boman  Boom.  On  the  right  (N.)  side:  1754. 
Statue  of  a  youth,  after  an  original  by  Polycleitos,  once  the  property 
of  Westmacott,  the  sculptor;  1792.  Head  of  a  girl,  in  the  style  of 
Polycleitos ;  2729.  Head  of  a  Diadumenos ;  503.  Head  of  an  Amazon, 
in  the  style  of  Polycleitos;  1596.  Head  of  Aphrodite  (?) ;  1692. 
Head  of  a  muse.  Above :  2207.  Hercules  and  the  Ceryneian  stag ; 
2206.  Relief  of  a  youth  holding  a  horse ;  ♦2200.  Circular  relief  of  the 
destruction  of  the  children  of  Niobe ;  780.  Two  youths  on  horseback. 
Below :  1677.  Sleeping  Cupid,  with  the  attributes  of  Hercules;  ^1785. 
Youthful  heroic  head;  1598,  Head  of  Aphrodite  (?  so-called  Sappho); 
1567.  Shepherd  asleep  (Endymion?);  1732, 1731.  Heads  of  Hercules; 
1861.  Portrait  head  (once  regarded  as  Achilles),  in  the  Pergamenian 
style.  Above :  *2190.  Relief  of  Bacchus  visiting  Icarius,  in  the  back- 
ground a  Greek  house  (copy  of  an  original  of  the  3rd  cent.  B.C.); 
2504.  Dionysos  with  Ariadne  or  a  Bacchante ;  2201.  Centaur  carrying 
off  a  woman ;  *2191.  Apotheosis  of  Homer,  relief  with  the  name  of  the 
sculptor  Archelaus  of  Priene  (found  at  Bovillae  in  the  Alban  Hills). 
Below:  1678.  Hypnos,  or  sleeping  Cupid;  1860.  Bearded  head,  of 
the  Pergamenian  school;  1548.  Head  of  Apollo  Musagetes ;  1547. 
Head  of  Apollo  ('Giustiniani  ApoUo');  1769.  Head  in  Asiatic  attire. 


298  26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     TheWestEnd. 

Above:  ♦ilOS.  Relief  of  two  satyrs,  from  Cuma;  2196.  Ariadne; 
2193.  Fragment  of  a  Bacchic  thiasus;  2194.  Maenad  grasping  the 
hindqnarter  of  a  kid.  —  Below :  750.  Sepulchral  relief,  with  names 
of  fallen  warriors  (?)  on  the  upper  edge;  •1874.  Iconic  female  bust 
(the  so-called  Clytie),  perhaps  of  Antonia  (b.  36  B.C.),  daughter  of 
Mark  Antony  (this  bust  appealed  strongly  to  Emerson);  1612.  Head 
of  Hermes;  1780.  Head  of  an  athlete.  Above:  Relief  of  a  warrior; 
776.  Artemis  and  Leto ;  1624.  Head  of  a  bearded  god,  probably  Zeus 
(though  labelled  Dionysos),  after  an  original  of  the  time  of  Phidias 
(the  eyes  were  inserted);  1609.  Terminal  head  of  the  bearded  Dio- 
nysos. Above,  774.  Victory  sacrificing  to  Apollo  (relief);  1623. 
Double-hermes  of  Dionysos  and  Ariadne.  —  At  the  end  of  the  room : 
*1599.  Statue  of  Hermes,  a  good  copy  of  a  Praiitelian  original.  — 
On  the  S.  side  of  the  room :  1745.  Midas  (or  bearded  Pan)  with  a  flute, 
archalstlc  terminal  figure  (unique  type);  1714.  Triple  statue  of  Hecate ; 
1560.  Diana, archaistic  statue;  1686.  Erato, statuette ;  1742. Terminal 
figure  in  a  mantle;  1631.  Jupiter  as  ruler  of  both  the  infernal  and 
celestial  regions ;  1636.  Dionysos  and  the  vine ;  1673.  Cupid  bending 
his  bow;  1533.  Ganymede  with  the  eagle;  1674.  Cupid  with  his 
bow;  1763.  Discobolos;  1722.  Attendant  of  Mithras,  restored  as  Paris; 
1583.  Torso  of  Venus  ('Richmond  Venus');  1756.  Part  of  a  group 
of  two  boys  quarrelling  at  play;  1755.  Boy  extracting  a  thorn  from 
his  foot,  found  on  the  Esquiline  Hill,  a  realistic  Hellenistic  modifi- 
cation of  the  archaic  bronze  in  the  Capitoline  Museum ;  1710.  Girl 
playing  with  astragali;  1384.  The  nymph  Cyrene  strangling  a  lion; 
1720.  Mithras  sacrificing  a  bull ;  1558.  Actaeon  attacked  by  his  hounds ; 
501.  Statue  of  a  Diadumenos. 

The  door  on  the  right  leads  into  the  Archaic  Room ;  the  stair- 
case at  the  extreme  end  descends  to  the  — 

GrsBCO-Boman  BaBement  Beom,  which  contains  Greek  and  Ro- 
man sculptures  of  various  kinds  :  sarcophagi,  cinerary  urns,  reliefs, 
vases,  fountain-basins,  candelabra,  table-supports,  animals,  leaden 
anchors,  etc.  On  the  E.  wall  is  a  mosaic  from  a  Roman  villa  at  Ha- 
licarnassos,  representing  Aphrodite  rising  from  the  sea,  with  two 
Tritons.  Adjacent  are  two  sacrificial  groups  in  marble  and  a  relief 
of  a  bull-fight.  —  The  annex  (adm.  on  application)  contains  a  series 
of  Etruscan  sarcophagi  and  urns,  reproductions  of  Etruscan  tombs  at 
Bomarzo  and  Vulci,  an  ancient  Roman  water-wheel  (found  in  Spain), 
other  sculptures,  and  miscellaneous  objects.  —  We  reascend  the 
staircase  and  enter  the  — 

Archaic  Boomf  which  chiefly  contains  archaic  remains  from 
Asia  Minor  and  the  Peloponnesus.  At  the  W.  end  are  two  *  Columns 
and  smaller  fragments  from  the  doorway  of  the  Treasury  of  Atreus 
at  Mycense.  Distributed  about  the  room  are  ten  sitting  figures 
(Nos.  7-16),  of  the  beginning  of  the  6th  cent.  B.C.,  which,  with 
the  lion  (17),  once  formed  part  of  the  Sacred  Way  leading  to  the 
Temple  of  Apollo  near  Miletus,  known  as  Branchidse  from  the 


The  West  End.     26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  299 

priestly  elan  which  ministered  in  it.  The  forms  of  these  figures  are 
yery  fall  and  show  little  attempt  at  modelling.  Opposite  the 
columns:  *94.  Reliefs  from  the  ''Harpy  TomV  at  Xanthos  in  Lycia 
(at  the  sides  sacrlflcial  scenes ;  at  the  ends  winged  sirens,  hearing 
away  small  figures  intended  to  represent  departed  souls)}  80.  Sepul- 
chral chest  from  the  same  spot.  The  forms  here  are  also  full  hut 
more  carefully  modelled.  On  the  N.  and  S.  walls  are  archaic 
marble  friezes  from  Xanthos  (81.  Satyrs  and  wild  heasts;  82. 
Cocks  and  hens ;  86.  Funeral  procession),  %hove  which  are  imita- 
tions of  the  pediments  of  a  temple,  containing  casts  (160-183)  of 
the  pediment  sculptures  found  in  ^Egina  in  1811  (originals  in 
Munich).  On  the  E.  wall  are  plaster  casts  of  four  metopes  from 
Selinus  in  Sicily,  prohahly  dating  from  the  6th  cent.  B.C.  In  the 
N.E.  comer  are  interesting  oasts  of  sculptures  from  the  Palace  of 
Minos,  atKnossos  in  Crete,  and  several  small  Greek  heads.  By  the 
doorway  here,  2688.  Cast  of  a  bronze  statue  of  a  charioteer  found  at 
Delphi  (original  of  the  1st  half  of  the  5th  cent.  B.C.).  —  In  the  centre 
of  the  room:  to  the  right,  209.  Apollo,  copy  of  an  archaic  work, 
from  the  Choiseul-Gouffier  collection;  17.  Lion  from  Branchidse 
(see  aboye);  to  the  left,  1521.  Female  torso  from  Rhamnus  in  Attica , 
•206.  *Strangford'  Apollo  (severe  and  scant  in  form,  probably  by 
an  i£ginetan  sculptor).  Behind  are  four  archaic  Etruscan  urns  in 
limestone.  Farther  on,  behind  the  Harpy  Tomb,  96-98.  Female 
torsos  from  Xanthos;  207.  Archaic  male  figure;  205.  Archaic  figure 
of  Apollo.   By  the  exit  are  several  interesting  heads. 

The  0redc  Ante-Soom,  a  small  chamber  to  the  N.,  contains,  on 
the  right,  *1300.  a  sitting  figure  of  Demeter,  a  dignified  original  of 
the  4th  cent.  B.C.  (period  of  Praxiteles  and  Scopas),  found  at  Cnidos. 
In  the  glass-cases  on  the  left  is  a  collection  of  small  •Sculptures  of 
the  archaic,  Greek,  and  Roman  periods. 

The  Ephesus  Boom  contains  fragments  of  the  celebrated  Temple 
of  Diana  (comp.  AcUf  chap,  xix),  exhumed  by  Mr.  J.  T.  Wood  at 
Ephesus  in  1869-74.  The  remains  consist  chiefly  of  the  drums  and 
bases  of  columns,  and  fragments  of  capitals  and  cornices.  Among 
them  is  the  lowest  drum  of  a  column  (immediately  to  the  left)  with 
lifcsize  reliefs  believed  to  represent  Thanatos  and  Hermes  bringing 
Alcestis  back  from  Hades  (1204-6).  On  the  W.  side  of  the  room : 
1248-1255  (behind  the  above-mentioned  drum").  Sculptured  frag- 
ments from  the  Great  Theatre  at  Ephesus;  1283.  Tomb  of  a  Roman 
llctor  with  a  carving  of  the  fasces  (Ephesus;  68  A.D.);  1234. 
Lion's  head  from  the  cornice  of  the  temple  of  Diana.  —  In  the 
middle  of  the  room  as  we  return :  1106.  So-called  Base  of  the  Muses 
(probably  an  altar),  with  reliefs  of  the  Muses,  a  late-Hellenic  work ; 
1356.  Round  altar  entwined  by  a  serpent,  from  Cnidos;  710.  Round 
pedestal  with  a  sepulchral  relief.  —  By  the  entrance,  1597.  Head 
of  Venus  (?),  with  unusually  well-preserved  traces  of  colouring.  — 
On  the  E.  side  of  the  room :    1510.  Capital  in  the  form  of  two 


300  25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     TheWestEnd, 

winged  bulls  (one  restored),  between  which  is  a  Caryatid  flgure 
terminating  below  in  acanthus  scrolls,  from  Salamis  in  Cyprus; 
1752.  Head  of  a  runner  in  a  Corinthian  helmet;  1852.  Head  of  a 
poet,  with  ivy-wreath  (Alexandrian  period);  Head  of  Meleager, 
from  an  original  of  the  4th  cent.  B.C. ;  1858.  Head  of  Alexander 
the  Great  (?);  1538.  Headless  flgure  of  Poseidon  (from  Cyzicus); 
1709.  Head  ofAtys;  1549.  Apollo  Citharoedus  (from  Carthage); 
1627.  Head  of  Bacchus,  with  traces  of  colour ;  1684,  Torso  of  a 
muse,  on  a  base  bearing  the  name  of  the  sculptor,  Apollodoros  ot 
Phocaea  (2nd  cent.  B.C.*);  *1672.  Statue  of  a  youth,  probably  Eros, 
from  Athens.  The  heads  and  statuettes  in  the  N.E.  angle  of  the 
room  will  repay  inspection.  —  To  the  right  of  the  exit  are  a  fine 
head  (1857)  wrongly  named  Alexander  the  Great,  a  characteristic 
specimen  of  Alexandrian  art,  and  a  colossal  seated  and  draped 
flgure  of  Bionysos  (432),  from  the  choragic  monument  of  Thrasyllos, 
erected  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  Acropolis  in  320  B.C.  —  We  now 
reach  the  — 

**Elgin  Soom,  containing  the  famous  Elgin  Marbles,  being 
the  remains  of  the  sculptures  executed  to  adorn  the  Parthenon  at 
Athens.  These  were  brought  from  Athens  in  1801-8  by  Lord 
Elgin,  at  that  time  British  ambassador  at  Constantinople,  at  a  cost 
of  70,000f.,  and  sold  to  the  British  Government  in  1816  for  half 
that  sum.  The  Parthenon,  the  Temple  of  Pallas  Athena  on  the 
Acropolis  of  Athens,  was  built  by  Ictinos  in  B.C.  447-434,  in  the 
time  of  Pericles ,  the  golden  age  of  Athens  and  of  Hellenic  art. 
It  was  in  the  Doric  order  of  architecture ,  and  occupied  the  site  of 
an  earlier  but  unfinished  temple  of  Athena.  In  the  5th  cent  A.D. 
the  Parthenon  was  converted  into  a  Christian  church,  undergoing 
various  alterations  to  adapt  it  for  the  purpose.  In  1460  it  became 
a  Turkish  mosque  and  in  1687  it  was  shattered  by  an  explosion  of 
gunpowder  during  a  siege.  The  situation  and  architecture  of  the 
famous  temple  are  illustrated  by  two  plaster  models  in  this  room, 
one  of  the  entire  Acropolis,  the  other  of  the  Parthenon  alone,  in  the 
lamentable  state  of  ruin  to  which  it  was  reduced  by  the  bombard- 
ment of  the  Venetian  general  Morosini  in  1687.  The  latter  model 
shows  also  the  original  arrangement  of  the  rich  sculptured  adorn- 
ment, with  the  pediment  groups  at  each  end,  the  series  of  metopes 
in  high  relief  (originally  92  in  number)  round  the  outside  of  the 
enclosing  colonnade,  and  the  frieze  in  low  relief  running  round  the 
wall  of  the  cella  (or  sanctuary  proper)  within  the  colonnade.  Nearly 
all  the  extant  remains  of  these  sculptures  are  collected  in  this  room, 
while  the  few  other  original  fragments  preserved  at  Athens  and 
elsewhere  are  here  represented  by  tinted  casts.  In  spite  of  their 
sadly  mutilated  condition,  the  Parthenon  sculptures  remain  the 
finest  examples  of  the  first  great  blossoming  period  of  Attic  art. 
The  metopes  alone  reveal  any  traces  of  the  stiffness  of  the  archaic 
style.   The  frieze,  and  still  more  the  pediment  sculptures,  are  the 


The  West  End.     26.  TBE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  301 

loftiest  reyelatioQ  of  the  beauty  of  the  Greek  ideal  style  —  a  beauty 
at  once  seTere  and  free,  impersonal  and  manifold,  elevated  yet 
throbbing  with  life,  sublime  and  at  the  same  time  charming,  and 
equally  admirable  for  the  serene  dignity  of  the  f  gures  (whether 
nude  or  draped)  in  repose  and  for  their  impassioned  animation  in 
action.  Phidias  carved  the  statue  of  Athena  in  ivory  and  gold  (p.  303) 
that  stood  in  the  cella;  but  it  is  a  moot  question  whether  the  per- 
fection of  the  extant  sculptures  is  due  to  him,  or  whether  that  was 
the  achievement  of  his  pupils  and  successors.  The  balance  of  opinion 
inclines  to  the  latter  hypothesis. 

The  remains  of  the  **£a8t  Pediment  Qronp  (303)  are  arranged  on 
the  W.  O^ft)  side  of  the  room.  The  central  gronp,  representing  the  Birth 
,  of  Athena,  is  almost  entirely  wanting  •,  the  space  ocenpled  by  it  There 
marked  by  a  Doric  capital  from  the  Parthenon)  mnst  have  been  3640  ft. 
in  length.  According  to  the  legend  Athena  issued  in  fall  armour  from 
the  head  of  Zeus,  but  in  the  missing  group  she  muat  certainly  have  ap- 
peared as  a  fall-grown  figure  standing  beside  her  father.  The  god  with 
arma  raised  (torso  H;  plaater-east),  probably  Hephsestos,  who  aasisted  the 
birth  by  splitting  the  head  of  Zena,  stood  dose  by.  Other  deities  con- 
nected with  the  event  were  represented  on  each  side,  either  seated  or  . 
walking.  The  only  groups  in  tolerable  preservation  are  those  from  the 
angles  of  the  tympanum,  towards  which  the  excitement  created  by  the 
marvellous  occurrence  in  the  centre  gradually  died  down.  At  the  extreme 
points  of  the  angles  the  composition  is  framed  by  the  gods  of  the  rising 
sun  and  the  setting  moon  (or  night),  to  indicate  that  the  goddess  was  bom 
at  daybreak. 

Beginning  on  the  left,  we  first  observe  two  arms  and  a  mutilated 
human  head  (A),  in  front  of  which  are  two  spirited  horses^  heads  (B,  C), 
also  considerably  damaged.  These  are  considered  to  represent  a  group  of 
Helios ,  the  god  of  the  rising  sun ,  ascending  in  his  chariot  from  the 
depths  of  the  ocean,  his  outstretched  arms  grasping  the  reins  of  his 
steeds.  Next  comes  a  youthful  male  figure  (D),  leaning  in  a  half-recum- 
bent posture  on  a  rock  and  facing  the  sun.  This  figure  (the  only  one  of 
which  the  head  is  preserved)  was  formerly  called  Theseus,  but  in  spite 
of  the  short  hair  the  panther^s  skin  covering  the  rock  and  other  attributes 
render  its  identification  as  Dionysos  more  probable.  Kext  to  Dionysos 
is  a  group  (B,  F)  of  two  dignified  female  figures  seated  upon  chests. 
That  to  the  left  is  probably  Bore  (Persephone),  while  the  other,  somewhat 
higher  and  more  majestic,  who  turns  with  an  appearance  of  lively  interest 
towards  the  central  group,  is  her  mother  Demeter.  Others  describe  these 
as  Attic  Hours.  Then  comes  (O)  a  girlish  figure,  clad  in  a  garment  open 
on  the  left,  hurrying  towards  the  left,  looking  backwards  in  great  ex- 
citement towards  the  central  group.  This  is  probably  Hebe;  the  former 
identification  with  Iris,  messenger  of  the  gods,  is  negatived  by  the  absence 
of  wings. 

Iris,  however,  is  represented  by  a  torso  (J),  beyond  the  central  space, 
advancing  at  a  rapid  gait  and  clad  in  a  sliort  robe,  with  holes  on  the 
back  for  the  insertion  of  wings.  This  figure,  however,  probably  belongs 
to  the  W.  pediment.  The  following  group  (K,  L,  M)  corresponds  in  its 
general  design  to  the  figures  D,  E,  F.  K  turns  from  her  companions 
towards  the  central  group.  L  is  only  preyented  from  doing  the  same 
by  H.  who  reclines  in  her  lap  and  has  apparently  just  wakened  from  sleep. 
The  beauty  of  this  last-named  magnificent  figure  is  enhanced  by  the  semi- 
transparent  garment  which  falls  from  her  shoulder.  We  have  here  probably 
Aphrodite  resting  on  the  lap  of  her  mother  Dione,  who  was  worshipped 
on  the  Acropolis.  Some  authorities  take  these  figures  for  the  Fates  (Parcee), 
but  the  Fates  were  not  Olympian  deities.  In  the  angle  of  the  tympanum 
(N,  O)  are  the  torso  of  Selene  (the  goddess  of  the  moon),  as  a  charioteer, 
and  by  her  side  the  head  of  one  of  her  coursers. 


302 


25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     The  West  End, 


The  remains  of  the  Wxst  Pkdimbnt  Qboup  (304)  are  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  room.  They  are  by  no  means  so  well  preserved  as  those 
from  the  East  Pediment,  and  we  can  form  an  idea  of  their  meaning  and 
connection  only  from  a  drawing  executed  by  an  unknown  artist  in  1674, 
which  includes  several  groups  that  are  now  wanting.  The  subject  or 
the  sculptures  is  the  Contest  of  Athena  and  Poseidon  for  the  soil  of  Athens. 
By  a  stroke  of  his  trident  Poseidon  caused  a  salt-spring  to  gush  forth 
from  the  soil,  but  his  gift  was  outdone  by  that  of  Athena,  who  produced 
the  olive-tree  and  was  adjudged  the  possession  of  the  city.  This  scene 
is  witnessed  by  the  mythical  inhabitants  of  the  Acropolis.  In  the  left 
angle  we  observe  the  torso  (A)  of  a  recumbent  male  figure ,  usually 
identified  as  the  river-god  Ilis£os,  but  more  probably,  perhaps,  a  hero 
related  to  the  family  of  Gecrops.  Kext  to  it  is  a  cast  (B,  C)  of  a  group 
of  two  figures  (the  original  is  in  Athens),  supposed  to  be  Gecrops,  the  first 
king  of  Attica,  and  his  daughter.  The  former  is  in  a  semi  •recumbent 
posture,  propping  his  left  arm  on  the  coils  of  a  serpent,  while  his 
daughter,  kneeling  beside  him,  has  flong  her  right  arm  round  his  neck 
in  terror  at  the  quarrel  of  the  gods.  Kext  (H)  the  torso  of  Hermes,  who 
accompanied  the  chariot  of  Athena,  corresponding  to  Iris  (torso  J.  see  p.  301) 
who  probably  accompanied  the  chariot  of  Poseidon,  on  the  otner  side  of 
the  central  group.  The  relics  of  the  central  group  are  exceedingly  scanty. 
Of  Athena  only  the  right  shoulder  with  part  of  the  drapeiy  and  a  piece 
of  the  segis  are  preserved  (L).  A  much  mutilated  torso  (M),  consisting  of 
the  shoulders  alone,  is  all  that  remains  of  the  rival  aeity,  Poseidon. 
The  proportions  of  these  two  statues,  which,  as  the  central  figures,  oc- 
cupied the  highest  part  of  the  tympanum,  are  on  a  much  lai^er  scale 
than  those  of  the  others. 

Kext  comes  a  female  torso  (O),  perhaps  Amphltrite  as  Poseidon's 
charioteer.  Then  (P,  Q)  the  lower  part  of  a  sitting  female  form  and  one 
leg,  the  only  relic  of  two  boys  that  completed  the  group.  This  doubtless 
represents  Oreithyia  and  her  twin-children  the  sons  of  Boreas.  Oreithyia 
was  a  daughter  of  Erechtheus,  the  ancient  king  of  Attica,  whose  family 
thus  formed  a  pendant  to  that  of  Gecrops  (see  above).  The  kneeling  man 
(V;  cast)  adjoining,  hitherto  taken  for  the  river^god  Gephissos,  probably  also 
belonged  to  the  hoase  of  Erechtheus.  Lastly,  at  the  end  of  the  tympanum 
(W),  is  the  torso  of  a  recumbent  female  form,  supposed  to  represent  the 
nymph  Gallirrhoe. 

Around  the  whole  of  the  hall ,  at  a  height  of  about  4Vs  ft-  from  the 
ground,  we  observe  the  **Fbi£zk  (about  175  yds.  long)  from  the  outside 
of  the  cella.  About  hiUf  of  the  friese  is  here  represented  by  originals, 
another  quarter  by  casts,  while  about  a  quarter  has  been  lost.  Few  of 
the  reliefs  are  seriously  damaged,  while  some  are  quite  perfect.  This 
frieze  forms  a  connected  whole  and  represents,  in  low  relief,  the  festive 
procession  which  ascended  to  the  Acropolis  at  the  end  of  the  Panathensea, 
for  the  purpose  of  presenting  to  the  Goddess  a  peplos,  or  robe,  woven  and 
embroidered  by  Athenian  virgins.  All  the  youth  and  beauty,  all  that  was 
noble  and  venerable  in  the  first  city  of  Greece  took  part  in  tbis  procession. 
The  slabs  are  arranged  as  far  as  possible  in  their  original  order,  the  points 
of  the  compass  being  indicated  above  them.  On  the  E.  side,  the  side  on 
which  the  temple  was  entered,  was  represented  an  august  assembly  of  the 
gods  in  two  divisions^  looking  towards  the  two  halves  of  the  advancing 
procession.  In  the  group  to  the  left  of  the  centre  are  Zeus,  seated  in 
solitary  dignity  on  his  throne,  Hera,  beside  whom  stands  Kike  (or  Iris), 
Ares,  unwillingly  constrained  to  inaction,  Demeter  with  her  torch,  the 
effeminate  Dionyscs,  seated  on  a  cushion  and  betraying  no  interest  in  the 
scene,  and  Hermes  with  the  petasos  (hat)  in  his  lap.  To  the  right  appear 
Athena,  unarmed  but  wearing  the  SBgis  with  its  border  of  serpents,  Hephsestos, 
her  rejected  admirer,  gallantly  turned  towards  her,  Poseidon,  her  adversary, 
looking  in  the  opposite  direction,  Apollo  who  leans  towards  Poseidon,  the 
austere  Artemis,  sister  of  Apollo,  and  finally  Aphrodite  (a  mere  fragment) 
against  whose  knees  leans  Eros  with  the  parasol.  Between  these  two 
groups  are  a  priest  (to  the  right)  receiving  the  peplos  from  the  hands  of 
a  boy,  and  a  priestess  (to  the  left),  with  two  maidens,  bearing  on  their 


The  West  End.    26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  303 

heads  seata  for  the  priest  and  priestess.  To  the  right  and  left  of  the  gods 
are  groups  of  older  and  younger  men,  probably  magistrates  or  f  onetionaries, 
waiting  for  the  procession.  The  latter  moves  along  both  the  N.  and  8.  sides 
of  the  eella,  the  point  of  separation  being  the  S.W.  angle.  There  are  giils 
with  baskets,  trays,  bowls,  and  torches,  eows  and  rams  for  sacrifice  led 
by  young  men,  youths  with  various  sacrificial  gifts,  players  on  the  lute  and 
lyre  in  long  robes,  four-horse  chariots  from  which  armed  men  (apobates) 
spring  as  they  proceed,  and  finally  troops  of  noble  Athenian  youths  on 
horseback,  advancing  at  a  rapid  pace.  On  the  W.  side  other  riders  are 
preparing  to  join  their  companions,  for  the  'unity  of  time'  ia  not  strictly 
observed  in  the  composition.  The  whole  procession  is  inexhaustibly  rich 
in  effective  motives,  the  study  of  which  never  fatigues.  One  element  only 
is  wanting  that  later  art  employed  to  animate  similar  composilions,  viz. 
the  special  characterization  of  individual  figures,  or  the  art  of  portraiture. 
These  Athenian  mortals  reveal  the  same  ideal  beauty,  the  same  serenity, 
as  the  gods  to  whom  their  homage  Is  addressed.  The  vigorous  modelling  and 
the  depth  of  perspective  obtained  in  these  low  reliefs  are  equally  admirable. 

Above  the  frlese  on  the  W.  wall  of  the  room  are  15  *lInTOFJB  and  casts 
of  four  others  firom  the  Parthenon,  being  the  sculptures  which  filled  the 
intervals  between  the  triglyphs  of  the  external  friese.  They  represent  the 
battle  of  t^e  Centaurs  and  Lapithse,  and  are  executed  in  very  high  relief. 
The  finest  examples  are  perhaps  Nos.  316,  317.  which  are  companion- 
pieces.    Some  ie.ff.  No.  320)  betray  traces  of  archaic  awkwardness. 

By  the  N.  wall  of  this  room  are  two  casts  (800,  301)  of  small  re- 
productions of  the  colossal  chryselephantine  statue  of  Athena,  by  Phidias, 
which  atood  within  the  Parthenon,  and  on  the  adjacent  drum  of  a  column 
is  a  fragment  (302)  of  the  shield  of  a  larger  reproduction  of  the  Athena 
Parthenos  (Strangford  Collection).  The  reliefs  represent  the  contests  of 
the  Greeks  and  Amazons ;  the  bald-headed  old  man  is  said  to  be  a  portrait 
of  Phidias  himself.  There  are  tome  traces  of  colouring  on  the  reverse 
side,  where,  on  the  shield  of  the  original  statue,  the  contests  of  the  Gods 
and  Giants  were  represented.  —  In  an  adjacent  wall-case  are  votive  reliefs, 
including  one  (796)  with  two  tresses  of  hair  dedicated  to  Poseidon. 

On  the  E.  wall  are  plaster  casts  (400-404)  from  the  external 
fiieze  of  the  Temple  of  Theseus  at  Athens,  representing  battle- 
scenes,  partly  of  the  contests  of  the  Greeks  with  the  Centaurs, 
three  metopse  from  the  same  temple  with  sculptures  of  the  feats 
of  Theseus ,  and  (below  the  Parthenon  frieze)  casts  (430)  of  the 
frieze  of  the  Ghoraglc  Monument  of  Lysicrates. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  room  are  casts  (2709,  2710)  of  two  marble 
chairs  from  the  theatre  of  Dionysos  at  Athens  (one  on  each  side  of  the 
entrance),  and  2544.  Sun-dial  from  the  same  theatre  (ca.  300  A.D.). 
On  pedestals  in  the  middle  of  the  room :  604.  Head  of  Hera  (?  or 
female  portrait)  from  Agrigentum ;  549.  Head  of  Pericles  (a  Roman 
copy  of  an  original  by  Gresilas,  a  contemporary  of  Phidias);  *650. 
Head  of  iEsculapius  from  Melos,  an  original  of  the  time  of  Praxiteles. 
—  Towards  the  N.  end  of  the  room  are  some  remains  from  the 
Erecht^eum  (6th  cent.  B.C.),  the  purest  existing  type  of  the  Ionic 
style,  including  a  column  from  the  E.  portico  (408) ,  a  ♦Caryatid 
from  the  S.  portico  (407),  and  fragments  of  friezes,  cornices,  ceiling 
coffers,  etc.  Here,  too,  is  the  capital  of  a  Doric  column  from  the 
Propylaeum  (433),  the  magnificent  entrance  to  the  Acropolis.  — 
We  now  enter  the  — 

FMgaleian  Boom,  containing  the  marbles  from  the  Temple  of 
Apollo  Epicurios  at  Phigaleia  in  Arcadia.    Round  the  walls  are 


304  26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     TheWest  End, 

arranged  twenty-three  slabs  from  the  frieze  adorning  the  interior  of 
the  cella.  Those  on  the  W.  wall  (520-531)  represent  the  contest  of 
the  Centaurs  and  Lapiths,  those  on  the  E.  wall  (532-542),  battles 
between  the  Greeks  and  the  Amazons.  Fragments  of  the  metopes 
of  this  temple  (610-519)  hang  on  the  S.  wall. 

On  the  W.  wall  are  four  reliefs  and  the  cast  of  a  fifth  (421- 
425)  from  the  frieze  of  the  temple  of  the  Wingless  Victory  (Nike 
Apteros  or  Athena  Nike)  at  Athens.  These  represent  the  Athenians 
lighting  with  Greek  and  Asiatic  foes.  In  the  middle  of  the  room : 
680.  Bull  from  the  top  of  a  sepulchral  stele  at  Athens;  *Statue  of 
a  mourning  woman  from  a  tomb,  an  Attic  work  of  the  4th  cent. 
B.C.  (?),  afterwards  emplayed  again  for  a  later  tomb. 

Fine  specimens  and  casts  of  Oreek  Sepulchral  Stelae  and  Votive  Relie/e 
are  also  placed  in  this  room.  By  the  K.  wall:  702.  Stele  from  Macedon 
with  a  family  groups  2155.  Votive  relief  relating  to  the  torch-race  in 
honour  of  the  goddess  Artemis  Bendis  (Plato,  Repab.  Bk.  I);  629.  Curious 
relief  of  a  physician  and  patient;  G2S.  Stele  of  Xanthippi^,  who  is 
represented  holding  a  votive  foot.  Of  the  four  tombstones  let  into 
the  E.  wall  the  finest  are  that  on  which  an  athlete  is  represented  hand- 
ing his  strigil  to  his  slave  (625)  and  that  (to  the  right)  representing  an 
athlete  standing  alone  (628).  Below  are  sepulchral  urns ;  also,  776.  Votive 
relief  of  an  offering  to  Apollo;  *2158.  Votive  relief  to  Pan  and  the  Nymphs; 
724.  Sepulchral  altar  with  relief  of  a  funeral  banquet. 

To  the  left  and  right  of  the  door  between  this  room  and  the 
Elgin  Room  are  two  good  Greek  portrait-busts  (1839,  1851). 

The  door  in  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  room  leads  to  the  Mausoleum 
Room  (see  below) ;  we,  however,  return  to  the  Elgin  Room,  and  by 
the  door  in  the  centre  of  the  E.  side  reach  the  — 

Nereid  Soom,  containing  the  sculptures  from  the  so-called 
Nereid  Monument  at  Xanthos  in  Lycia  (end  of  5th  cent.  B.C.).  In 
the  centre  is  a  model  of  the  monument,  by  Sir  0.  Fellows,  and  ou 
the  S.  wall  of  the  room  is  a  ^restoration'  of  one  of  the  sides  of  the 
monument.  Eight  Nereids,  some  much  mutilated,  stand  in  this 
room.  On  the  walls  are  fragments  of  four  friezes  that  adorned  the 
building.  The  broad  frieze,  supposed  to  have  encircled  the  base, 
represents  a  battle  between  Greeks  and  Asiatic  warriors,  some  of 
whom  are  mounted;  the  other  narrower  friezes  bear  scenes  of  war, 
hunting,  banqueting,  and  sacrifice.  On  each  side  of  the  door  on  the 
N.  wall  is  a  lion  from  the  monument,  and  above  the  doorway  is 
the  E.  pediment  of  the  same. 

We  now  descend  the  steps  on  the  left  to  the  Mausoleum  Boom, 
containing  remains  from  the  ** Mausoleum  at  HcdicamaasuSj  dis- 
covered by  Newton  in  1857. 

This  celebrated  monument  (whence  the  modern  generic  term 
^mausoleum'  is  derived)  was  erected  by  Artemisia  in  B.C.  ^5d^,  In 
honour  of  her  husband  Mausolus  (MaussoUos),  King  of  Oaria,  and 
was  reckoned  among  the  Seven  Wonders  of  the  World.  The  architects 
were  Satyros  and  Pythis  or  Pythios.  The  tomb  stood  upon  a  lofty 
basement,  and  was  surrounded  by  36  Ionic  columns.  The  tall  pyra- 


The  West  End.    26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  305 

midal  roof  rose  in  steps  (24  in  numbeO,  and  was  surmounted  by 
a  four-horse  eliariot,  with  colossal  statues  of  Mausolus  and  his  wife, 
sculptured  by  the  above-named  Pythis.  The  monument  was  in  all 
about  140  ft.  in  height,  and  was  embellished  by  a  number  of  statues, 
lions,  and  other  pieces  of  sculpture.  In  the  centre  of  the  room  are 
(1000)  a 'Statue  of  Mausolus  (restored  from  77  fragments)  and  (1001) 
a  female  figure  (perhaps  Artemisia)  found  under  the  ruins  of  the 
pyramid,  grouped  along  with  a  wheel  (largely  restured)  and  frag- 
ments of  the  colossal  horses  of  the  chariot  of  Mausolus,  so  as  to 
suggest  their  position  in  a  chariot.  The  bronze  bit  and  bridle  are 
original.  Towards  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  room  is  (980)  a  column 
from  the  colonnade,  with  fragments  of  the  architrave ;  opposite  are 
its  base  and  lowest  drum,  beside  which  are  (No.  987)  some  steps 
from  the  pyramidal  roof.  A  few  fragments  of  the  relief-friezes  of  the 
monument  are  also  preserved ;  these  are  assigned  by  Pliny  to  Scopas, 
Bryaxis,  Leochares,  and  Timotheus ;  but  Vitruvius  names  Praxiteles 
in  the  place  of  the  last-mentioned.  On  the  E.  wall  are  seventeen 
slabs  (*1006-1031)  of  a  frieze  representing  the  contests  of  the  Greeks 
with  the  Amazons,  and  above  are  the  very  fragmentary  remains  of 
another  frieze,  representing  races  and  the  battle  of  the  Greeks  with 
the  Centaurs.  On  the  W.  wall,  near  the  S.  end  of  the  room,  is  a 
slab  with  a  charioteer,  ascribed  to  Scopas  (1037).  To  the  left,  •IGOO. 
Head  of  a  youth,  in  a  somewhat  damaged  state  but  of  splendid 
original  workmanship  and  probably  from  the  chisel  of  Praxiteles. 
To  the  right,  1099.  Alabaster  jar  found  on  the  site  of  the  Mauso- 
leum, Inscribed  'Xerxes  the  Great  King'  in  four  languages.  At  the 
N.£.  end  of  the  room  is  a  reproduction  of  the  cornice  of  the  Mauso- 
leum. Among  other  fragments  are  a  female  torso;  eight  lions; 
*1045.  Fragment  of  an  equestrian  figure  in  Persian  garb ;  fragments 
of  columns. 

The  room  also  contains  (in  the  centre,  behind  the  statue  of  Mau- 
solus, and  by  the  W.  wall)  a  number  of  marbles  from  the  Temple 
of  Athene  Polias  at  Priene  (B.C.  334),  a  colossal  arm,  hand,  foot, 
and  female  head,  and  a  female  figure  (probably  a  goddess)  in  the 
dress  and  attitude  of  a  charioteer.  On  the  wall  (1165-1176)  are  re- 
liefs from  a  balustrade  of  later  date,  representing  the  contest  with 
the  Giants  (ca.  2nd  cent.  B.C.I.  On  either  side  of  the  steps  at  the 
S.  end  is  a  Lyclan  Tomb  (950,  951),  adorned  with  sculptures  of 
martial  scenes.  Opposite  the  steps  at  the  N.  end  is  a  colossal  lion 
from  Cnidos. 

The  39^.  portion  of  this  room  is  at  present  somewhat  crowdei  with  casts 
of  sculptures,  awaiting  the  completion  of  a  new  room  for  their  reception. 

The  admirable  little  lions  on  the  stair-posts  were  modelled  by  Alfred 
Stevens  (d.  1876)  and  originally  stood  with  others  on  a  railing  (now  removed) 
in  Great  Bussell  Street.  Similar  lions  occupy  the  stair-posts  in  other  parts 
of  the  Museum. 

The  Mansolenm  Annex  (shown  by  special  permission),  which 
opens  o£f  the  Mausoleum  room  near  the  N.W.  angle,  contains  les? 
Babdskbs's  London.    15th  Edit.  20 


306  25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     ThtWeatEnd. 

important  GrsBco-Roman  sepulchral  and  yotive  reliefs,  8arcoplLag:i, 
altars,  stele,  etc. 

We  now  ascend  to  the  raised  gallery  at  the  N.  end  of  the  room, 
on  which  are  placed  six  heads,  including  *'1051,  a  heantifnl  female 
head  found  at  Halicamassus  (4th  cent.  B.C.).  By  turning  to  the 
right  we  reach  the  Assyrian  and  Egyptian  collections,  which,  next 
to  the  Elgin  Room,  are  the  most  important  parts  of  the  British 
Museum. 

The  ^^Assyrian  Gallery  comprises  three  long  narrow  rooms, 
called  the  Nineveh  (Kouyunjik)  OaUeryf  the  Nimroud  Central  Sa^ 
loon,  and  the  Nimroud  Qallery ;  the  Assyrian  Transept,  adjoining 
the  last  of  these  three;  the  Assyrian  Saloon ;  and  finally  a  room 
(p.  311)  on  the  second  floor.  Its  contents  are  chiefly  the  yield  of 
the  excayations  of  Sir  A.  H.  Layard  in  1846-54  at  Kouyunjik,  the 
ancient  Nineyeh,  and  at  Nimroud,  the  Blhlical  Calah,  hut  Include 
the  collection  made  hy  Mr.  George  Smith  in  Mesopotamia,  as  well 
as  contrihutions  from  other  sources. 

The  Nineveh  Gallery  contains  (let  into  the  walls)  has  -reliefs 
dating  from  B.C.  721-625,  and  helonging  to  the  royal  palace  of 
Sennacherih  (d.  B.C.  681)  at  Nineyeh  (the  modem  Kouyunjik), 
afterwards  occupied  hy  Sennacherib's  grandson,  Assurhanipal  or 
Sardanapalus.  The  older  reliefs,  dating  from  the  time  of  Senna- 
cherih, are  executed  in  alabaster,  the  others  in  hard,  light-grey 
limestone. 

We  begin  our  examination  at  the  S.W.  comer.  No.  1.  Esarhaddon, 
cast  from  a  bas-relief  cut  in  the  rock,  at  the  month  of  the  Xiahr  el-Eelb 
river,  near  Beirilt;  2.  Qalley  with  two  banks  of  oars;  *d.  Colossal  face;  4-8. 
Bow  of  fragments  (upper  part  damaged),  representing  Sennacherib's  advance 
against  Babylon ;  15-17.  Beturn  from  battle,  with  captives  and  spoil ;  18-19. 
Procession  of  warriors;  20-29.  Siege  of  a  fortified  town,  perhaps  Jeru- 
salem (on  slab  "So.  25  is  the  city  itself,  while  27-29  represent  the  triumph 
of  the  victors).  *Kos.  36-48.  Series  of  large  reliefs,  which  decorated 
the  walls  of  a  long  passage  between  the  palace  and  the  Tigris;  on  one 
side,  descending  the  slope,  are  horses,  held  by  attendants;  on  the  other, 
ascending,  servants  with  dishes  for  a  feast.  The  figures,  rather  under 
lifesize,  are  beautifully  designed.  No.  44.  Monumental  tablet;  45-50. 
Triumph  of  Sardanapalus  over  the  Elamites  (in  limestone,  well  preserved). 
Nos.  51-52.  Bemoval  of  a  winged  bull  on  a  sledge  by  means  of  wooden 
rollers  and  levers;  to  the  right,  construction  of  a  lofty  embankment. 
Kos.  53-56.  Similar  scenes  in  better  preservation;  57-59.  Sennacherib 
besieging  a  city  situated  on  a  river  (quaintly  represented),  and  receiving 
the  spoil  and  prisoners ;  60.  Figure  with  the  head  of  a  lion,  bearing  a 
knife  in  the  right  hand,  which  is  held  up. 

The  glass-cases  in  the  middle  of  the  hall  contain  some  of  the  most 
interesting  of  the  cuneiform  tablets  and  cylinders  from  the  library  enlarged 
by  Sardanapalus  at  Nineveh,  including  historical,  geographical,  philolog- 
ical, official,  and  legal  documents  of  great  value.  Some  of  those  in  Oase  A 
give  the  Babylonian  versions  of  the  Creation  and  the  Flood,  the  latter 
closely  resembling  that  of  Genesis.  Other  tablets  bear  prayers,  incanta- 
tions, omens,  etc.  The  collection  of  cuneiform  tablets  in  the  Museum  is 
the  richest  in  Europe.  —  We  now  enter  the  — 

Nimrond  Central  Saloon,  containing  the  Bculptures  (dating 
from  B.C.  880-630),  discovered  by  Sir  A.  H.  Layard  at  Nimroud, 


The  West  End.    26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  307 

on  the  Tigris,  situated  aboat  18  M.  helow  Nineyeh.  They  aie  from 
the  palace  huilt  by  Esarhaddon,  the  successor  of  Sennacherib,  but 
some  of  them  are  of  a  much  earlier  date  than  that  monarch,  who 
used  the  fragments  of  older  buildings.  The  reliefs  on  the  left  are 
from  a  Temple  of  the  God  of  War. 

We  begin  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  from  the  Kineveh  Gallery. 

67.  Large  relief,  representing  the  eyaenation  of  a  conquered  city  \  below, 
the  trlnmphal  procession  of  King  Tiglath-Pileser  III.  in  his  war-chariot. 

68.  Colossal  head  of  a  winged  man-headed  bull;  opposite,  another  similar, 
bnt  smaller  head.  At  the  central  pillars,  two  statues  of  the  god  Kebo 
^9,  70).  In  front  of  the  latter,  black  marble  obelisk  (98),  adorned  with 
ave  rows  of  reliefs }  the  cuneiform  inscriptions  record  events  in  the  history 
of  Shalmaneser  II.  (about  860  B.C.).  Opposite,  in  the  middle  of  the  room. 
819.  Seated  statue  of  Shalmaneser  n.,  in  black  basalt.  At  the  entrance  to 
the  Nimroud  Gallery,  on  the  right,  a  colossal  winged  *Lion  (77) }  on  the 
left,  a  colossal  winged  bull  (76),  both  with  human  heads.  Then  bas-reliefs 
(84),  evacuation  of  a  conquered  town  and  other  scenes  from  the  campaigns 
of  Tiglath-Pileser.  88.  Monolith  (figure  in  relief)  of  Shalmaneser  (B.C.  850)  ^ 
110.  Monolith  of  Samsi-Rammanu,  son  of  Shalmaneser  II.  (B.C.  826-812). 
At  the  entrance  to  the  Kineveh  Gallery,  a  colossal  lion  (96)  from  the  side 
of  a  doorway  (B.C.  880).  —  We  now  enter  the  Kimroud  Gallery,  but  pass 
at  once  through  the  door  in  theN.W.  comer  (right)  to  the  anteroom  of  the  — 

ABsyrian  Saloon,  which  consists  of  a  large  glass-roofed  hall, 
used  chiefly  as  a  lecture-room,  with  a  gallery  or  balcony  round  it. 
On  the  walls  of  both  hall  and  balcony  are  reliefs  from  Nimroud  and 
from  Nineveh,  excavated  by  Messrs.  Rassam  and  Loftus.  These 
reliefs,  belonging  to  the  latest  period  of  Assyrian  art,  are  throughout 
superior  to  those  in  the  other  rooms,  both  in  design  and  execution. 
From  the  vestibule  we  turn  to  the  left  and  enter  the  gallery. 

On  the  E.  wall:  33-53.  Assurbanipal  (668-626  B.C.)  hunting  lions.  — 
S.  or  end  wall:  103-117.  Hunting-scenes.  —  W.  wall:  118, 119.  Assurbani- 
pal offering  libations  over  dead  lions;  63.  Guards;  64-69.  Attendants  with 
dead  lions  and  hunting-gear;  70-72.  Laden  mules;  73,74.  Attendants  with 
hunting-gear;  13,  15.  Soldiers;  19,  20.  Soldiers  and  captives;  21-24.  As- 
sault on  the  city  of  Lachish;  25,  26.  Prisoners  and  booty  from  Lachish; 
27-32.  Sennacherib  (705-681  B.C.)  before  Lachish ;  17, 18.  Mythological  sub- 
jects; 862.  Tiglath-Pileser  III.  (745-727  B.C.)  receiving  the  submission  of 
a  foe;  863.  Siege  of  a  city  by  Tiglath-Pileser  IIL ;  616.  Inscription  record- 
ing the  conquests  of  Tiglath-Pileser  III. ;  81.  Mythological  scene. 

The  last^mentioned  reliefs  are  in  the  vestibule,  which  we  have  again 
reached.  We  now  descend  the  staircase  to  the  basement  proper,  and  turn 
to  the  right  to  enter  the  hall. 

On  the  E.  wall:  Cuneiform  inscriptions ;  96,  98.  Servants  and  warriors ; 
121.  Assurbanipal  and  his  wife  banqueting  in  an  arbour;  122.  Servants 
carrying  a  dead  lion;  124.  Musicians;  83-87.  Assurbanipal's  war  against 
the  Arabians;  88.  War  against  the  Ethiopians.  —  S.  or  end  wall:  Large  re- 
liefs of  the  capture  of  a  city  in  Susiana  and  the  reception  of  captives.  •—  At 
this  end  of  the  room  is  a  large  Egyptian  tomb ;  and  in  the  middle  of  the 
room  is  a  glass-case  containing  the  bronze  bands  that  adorned  the  gates 
of  Tell-Balawat,  with  reliefs  recording  the  victories  of  Shalmaneser  II. 
—  W.  wall :  89-94.  War  against  the  Babylonians ;  12,  14.  Musicians ;  9-11, 
16.  Warriors;  1-8.  Scenes  of  war;  Bringing  home  the  heads  and  spoil  of 
conquered  enemies;  Warriors  preparing  their  repast.  —  High  up  on  the 
K.  wall  is  a  piece  of  pavement  from  the  palace  of  Sardanapalus.  —  We 
reascend  the  staircase  and  eoter  the  — 

Kimroud  Gallery.  We  begin  at  the  S.W.  corner.  The  slabs  on  the 
W.  side  are  arranged  as  they  originally  stood  in  the  palace  of  Assur-Kasir-Pal 
(886-860  B.C.)  at  Nimroud.  Nos.  8-16  are  martial  and  hunting  scenes  in  the 

20* 


308  25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     The  West  End. 

life  of  Assur-Nasir-Pal.  To  the  left  and  right  of  the  1^.  door  are  (17,  18) 
winged  figurea  with  a  stag  and  an  ibex.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  gallery  are 
colossal  bas-reliefs;  19.  Foreigners  bringing  apes  as  tribute }  20.  King 
Assor-Kasir-Pal  in  a  rich  embroidered  dress,  with  sword  and  sceptre; 
*21-26.  The  king  on  his  throne  surrounded  by  attendants  and  winged 
figures  with  mystic  offerings;  28,  29.  Winged  figure  with  a  thunderbolt, 
chasing  a  demon;  36.  Lion-hunt;  37-41.  Representation  of  religious  ser- 
vice. The  slabs  with  the  larger  reliefs  bear  inscriptions  running  horisont- 
ally  across  their  centres.  —  The  glass-cases  in  the  middle  of  the  room 
contain  bronse  dishes  with  engraved  and  chased  mythological  scenes,  ad- 
mirably executed,  other  bronze  articles  of  different  kinds,  etc.  Cases  £,  F 
contain  a  collection  of  *Ivory  Carvings  in  imitation  of  Egyptian  designs, 
by  Phoenician  artists  (860-700  B.C.).  Between  the  cases  (from  8.  to  N.),  42. 
Part  of  a  broken  obelisk  of  Assur-Nasir^Pal ;  89.  Statue  of  that  king  on 
its  original  pedestal ;  inscribed  limestone  altar  and  coffer  (71,  73);  mono- 
lith of  Assur-Kaair-Pal  (B.C.  880). 

The  Nimrond  Gallery  is  adjoined  on  the  S.  by  the  Assyrian 
Transept,  which  in  Its  western  half  is  a  continnation  of  the  Nim- 
rond  Gallery  (monuments  from  the  time  of  Assur-Nasir-Pal), 
while  the  eastern  part  contains  antlqnities  from  Khorsabad  (ahont 
B.C.  720),  from  the  excavations  of  Messrs.  Bawlinson  and  Layard. 

To  the  right  of  the  entrance  from  the  Kimroud  Gallery  is  the  upper 
part  of  a  broken  obelisk  (62;  B.C.  880).  Farther  on,  847.  Monolith  of 
Assur-l^asir-Pal,  with  a  fall-length  portrait  in  relief.  In  front  of  it  is  an 
altar,  which  stood  at  the  door  of  the  Temple  of  the  God  of  War.  At  the 
!K.  and  S.  sides  are  two  colossal  winged  *Lions,  with  human  heads,  from 
the  sides  of  a  doorway.  On  the  wall  are  reliefs  and  inscriptions  from 
Nimroud,  of  Assur-Nasir  Pal,  King  of  Assyria  (885-860).  —  In  the  B.  or 
Khorsabad  section,  two  colossal  bulls  with  human  heads,  adjacent  to 
which  are  two  colossal  human  figures.  Within  the  recess  thus  formed 
are  fragments  of  bas-reliefs  from  the  same  place,  and  inscribed  tablets 
from  Kouyunjik.  To  the  right,  opposite  the  window,  a  relief  of  a  hunt- 
ing-scene in  black  marble,  the  only  slab  obtained  at  Khorsabad  by  Sir 
Henry  Layard. 

The  collection  of  *Eg7ptian  Antiquities  fills  three  halls  on  the 
gronndfloor,  and  four  rooms  in  the  upper  story.  The  antiquities, 
which  embrace  the  period  from  B.C.  3000  to  A.D.  350,  are  ar- 
ranged in  chronological  order.  The  Southern  Gallery,  which  we 
enter  first,  is  devoted  to  antiquities  of  the  latest  period. 

Southern  Egyptian  Gallery.  Monuments  of  the  period  B.C.  1800-860. 
Those  at  the  S.  end  of  the  gallery  are  of  the  Greek  and  Roman  periods. 
Section  1 :  monuments  of  the  period  of  the  Roman  dominion.  Section  2 : 
time  of  the  Ptolemies.  In  the  middle  is  the  celebrated  ^Stone  of  Ro- 
setta',  a  tablet  of  black  basalt  with  a  triple  inscription.  It  was  found 
by  the  French  near  the  Rosetta  mouth  of  the'  Nile  in  1798,  but  passed 
into  the  possession  of  the  English  in  1802.  One  of  the  inscriptions 
is  in  the  hieroglyphic  or  sacred  character,  the  second  in  the  enchor- 
ial, demotic,  or  popular  character,  and  the  third  in  Greek.  It  was 
these  inscriptions  which  led  Young  and  ChampoUion  to  the  discovery 
of  the  hieroglyphic  language  of  ancient  Egypt.  —  The  remaining  part 
of  the  gallery  contains  monuments  from  the  SOth  to  the  19th  Dynasty 
(beginning  about  B.C.  1300).  To  the  right,  1134.  Monolitbic  granite  shrine 
for  a  hawk  or  small  image ;  1047.  Sarcophagus  of  Psammetichus,  an  offi- 
cial of  the  26th  Dyn.(?);  to  the  left,  16.  Sarcophagus  of  a  priest  of  Ptah; 
to  the  right,  86.  Sarcophagus  of  Hanata,  a  temple  official  of  the  26th  Dyn., 
upon  it,  his  statue  which  was  found  inside;  to  the  left,  10.  Huge  sarco- 
phagus of  King  Nectanebus  I.  (about  B.C.  378),  with  reliefs  within  and 
without;  to  the  right,  3.  Sarcophagus  of  a  priest  of  Memphis.  To  the  right, 
*82.  Sarcophagus  of  the  Queen  of  Amasis  (from  Thebes;  28th  Dyn.);  to  the 


TheWestEnd.    26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  309 

left,  23.  Oreen  granite  sarcophagus  of  a  royal  scribe,  with  reliefs  \  to  the 
right,  1064.  Part  of  a  seated  colossus  ^usurped'  by  Osorkon  II.  (22nd  Dyn.), 
beside  it,  its  head  (1068).  —  In  the  middle  is  a  frame  with  a  papyrus  con- 
taining an  extract  from  the  Book  of  the  Dead  (written  about  1060  B.C.). 
To  the  left,  1066.  Granite  column  from  Bubastis.  with  palm-capital^  1066. 
Qranite  column  from  Heraeleopolist  right  and  left  (517,  63),  Two  sitting 
figures  of  the  goddess  Sekhmet  (with  the  head  of  a  lioness).  To  the  right, 
86.  Sitting  figures  of  a  man  and  a  woman,  in  limestone ;  947.  Statae  of 
a  famous  magician ;  to  the  left,  26.  King  Ramses  II.,  holding  an  offering- 
tray  and  a  libation  vessel;  to  the  right,  460.  Small  painted  limestone 
figures.  Between  the  columns  at  the  entrance  to  the  Oentral  Saloon:  883 
(on  the  right).  Wooden  statue  of  a  king  of  the  19th  Dyn.  ^  882  (on  the  left). 
Wooden  statue  of  Ramses  II.  —  The  — 

Oente-al  Egyptian  Saloon  chiefly  contains  antiquities  of  the  time 
of  Ramses  II.,  the  Pharaoh  of  the  Oppression  (14th  cent.  B.C.).  In  the 
middle,  74.  Colossal  scarabseus,  in  granite;  to  the  right,  9.  Colossal  fist 
from  one  of  the  statues  in  front  of  the  temple  of  Ptah  at  Memphis,  1120. 
Cast  of  a  Hyksos  sphinx  inscribed  with  the  names  of  Ramses  U.,  Meren- 
ptah  I.,  Ramses  III.,  and  Psusennes;  to  the  left,  two  colossal  heads  of 
Ramses  II.,  tibe  one  a  cast  from  a  figure  at  MitRabtneh,  the  other  in  granite 
from  the  Ramesseum  at  Thebes.  To  the  right,  109.  Statue  of  Ramses  II. 
in  black  granite;  7.  Head  of  a  kriosphinx,  from  Karnak ;  108.  Libation- 
vessel,  in  black  granite.  Between  the  columns,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
Northern  Gallery,  on  the  right,  61.  Granite  statue  of  Ramses  II.,  from 
Thebes ;  to  the  left,  834.  Wooden  figure  of  King  Sethos  I. 

[To  the  E.  of  the  Central  Egyptian  Saloon,  opposite  tlie  entrance 
to  tiie  Nereid  Room  (p.  304),  is  the  SefreBhment  Boom,  where  a 
simple  lancheon,  tea,  etc.  maybe  obtained  (no  alcoholic  beverages).] 

Northern  Biryptian  Gallery,  chiefly  containing  antiquities  of  the  time 
of  the  18th  Dynasty,  under  which  Egypt  en,)oyed  its  greatest  prosperity. 
On  the  left  and  right,  statues  of  King  Haremheb  in  black  granite,  and  two 
*Lions  in  red  granite  (from  Nubia).  To  the  right  and  left,  14,  21.  Sitting 
figures  of  King  Ameno phis  III.,  called  by  the  Greeks  Memnon  (B.C.  1400), 
in  black  granite,  from  Thebes.  On  the  left,  38.  Quartzite  figure  of  dogheaded 
ape.  On  the  left,  64.  Papyrus  -  column  with  a  capital  in  the  form  of  a 
bud.  Opposite  30.  Colossal  head  of  Amenophis  III. ;  De  Quincey  speaks 
of  this  head  as  uniting  Hhe  expressions  nf  ineflable  benignity  with  infinite 
duration\  To  the  right  and  left,  6,  4.  Colossal  heads  of  Amenophis  HI. , 
found  near  the  *Vocal  Memnon',  at  Thebes.  In  the  middle,  llOJ.  (5ast  of  a 
sphinx  inscribed  with  the  name  of  Thutmosis  III.  (B.C.  1500).  Several 
repetitions  of  the  statue  of  the  goddess  Sekhmet,  which  is  distinguished 
by  the  lioness's  head  (in  accordance  with  the  Egyptian  custom  of  represent- 
ing deities  with  the  heads  of  the  animals  sacred  to  them).  On  the  left, 
43.  Lower  part  of  a  black  granite  figure  of  Queen  Mutemua  seated  in  a 
boat.  On  the  right,  12.  Monument  in  red  granite,  the  four  sides  of  which 
are  covered  with  figures  of  Thutmosis  III.  and  gods.  To  the  right,  small 
sandstone  figure  of  an  Egyptian  prince.  At  the  end  of  the  room,  15. 
Colossal  head  of  King  Thutmosis  III.,  found  at  Karnak,  in  front  of  which 
is  one  of  the  arms  (55)  of  the  same  flgure. 

The  shelves  beneath  the  windows  of  the  Egyptian  galleries  contain 
stelse,  inscribed  tablets,  funeral  jars,  etc.  Below  are  larger  reliefs  (some 
with  the  inscriptions  picked  out  in  red  for  the  convenience  of  visitors), 
wall-paintings,  etc.  The  reliefs  Nos.  170-11,  919-923  (by  the  right  wall), 
from  tombs  at  Thebes,  are  especially  noteworthy.  Smaller  antiquities  and 
fragments  are  ranged  beside  the  walls  (many  under  glass).  —  The  — 

Northern  Egyptian  Yestibule  contains  antiquities  of  the  period  em- 
braced by  the  first  twelve  dynasties ,  and  particularly  that  of  the  fourth 
dynasty  (about  2500  B.C.),  when  Egypt  enjoyed  a  very  high  degree  of 
civilization.  No.  1144  is  a  cast  of  the  figure  known  as  the  Shdkh  el-Beled 
(ca.  B.C.  3700).  To  the  left  are  sepulchral  steles  in  the  shape  of  doors. 
Above  the  door  is  a  plaster  cast  of  the  head  of  the  norihern  colossal  figure 
of  Ramses  at  Abu-Simbel  (Nubia). 


310  05.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     The  West  End. 

Opposite  the  Noithein  Vestibule  is  a  staircase  leading  to  the 
Uppbs  Floor.  On  the  wall  of  the  staircase  are  mosaic  pavements 
from  Hallcamassus,  Carthage,  and  Utica. 

The  Ante-Boom  at  the  top  of  the  stairs  contains  wall-cases  with  Egyptian 
pottery  of  the  archaic  and  early  dynastic  periods.  In  the  centre  are  two 
large  Coffins  of  acacia -wood  (the  shittim^-wood  of  the  Bihle),  recently 
found  near  El-Bersheh,  opposite  the  island  of  Bhoda.  On  the  sides  and 
Uds  of  these,  which  date  from  the  12th  Dynasty  (ca.  2500  B.C.),  are  finely 
cut  hieroglyphics  and  on  the  insides  are  inscribed  long  extracts  from  the 
Book  of  the  Dead,  affording  a  text  ahout  800  years  older  than  any  previ- 
ously known.  —  To  the  left  are  four  rooms  with  smaller  Egyptian  antiquities. 

First  Egyptian  Boom,  containing  a  ^Collection  of  mammies  and  mummy 
cases  or  coffins  painted  with  religious  scenes  and  texts,  from  about  B.  C. 
2500  to  the  Roman  period.  The  Wall  Cases^  beginning  to  the  left  of  the 
entrance,  contain  a  rich  collection  of  coftms  and  coftin-lids,  arranged  more 
or  less  chronologically,  and  well  repaying  inspection.  —  The  Standard 
Gases,  in  the  centre,  contain  mummies  and  coffins.  *Case  A  (to  the  left, 
beginning  at  the  entrance).  Model  of  a  shallow  oval  grave,  containing  the 
mummified  corpse  of  a  man  of  the  Neolithic  period  (about  7000  B.C.), 
buried  in  a  crouching  posture,  with  various  vessels,  etc.  Case  B.  (on  the 
right).  Coffin  of  King  Mycerinus  (4th  Dyn. ;  ca.  B.C.  2500)  and  portions  of 
the  body  found  with  it.  Case  C.  (1.),  Skeleton,  preserved  by  the  use  of 
bitumen,  with  a  head  rest.  Case  D.  (r.),  Skeleton  and  coffin  of  Khati  (B.C. 
2000).  Case  I.  (1.),  Finely  painted  inner  coffin  (ca.  1200  B.C.).  Case  J.  (r.), 
Sinaiar  coffin  (1000  B.C.).  Case  K.  (1.),  Inner  coffin,  usurped  by  Thent- 
Hent-f  (ca.  700  B.C.).  Case  M.  (1.),  Mummy  of  a  lady  (1000  B.C.  5  note  the 
wooden  arms).  Case  N.  (r.),  Gilded  inner  coffin  of  Hent-Mehet,  a  priestess 
of  high  rank,  with  a  gilded  wooden  mummy -cover  in  openwork  on  a 
background  of  purple  linen.  Case  P.  (r.).  Mummy  of  Katebet  (800  B.C  ), 
with  two  pectorals  and  an  Ushabti  figure  in  the  original  positions.  Cases  Q.  (1.) 
and  R.  (r.).  Mummies  with  network  coverings  of  blue  fayence  beads.  — 
On  the  walls  of  the  room  are  casts  and  paintings. 

Second  Egyptian  Boom.  The  Wall  Cases  53-68,  to  the  left,  and  the  Standard 
Cases  contain  the  continuation  of  the  collection  of  mummies  and  mummy 
cases.  Cases  66  and  67^  Mummies  of  children.  —  Standard  Cases  to  the  left : 
Case  T.  Sarcophagus  of  Heru-a  (550  B.C.).  —  Ccne  Y.  Coffin  and  mummy 
of  Tchet-hra  (o50  B.C.),  with  interesting  pectorals  and  plaques.  —  Case  Z. 
Coffin  and  mummy  of  Heru-em-heb  (3C0  B.C.),  with  fine  cartonnage.  — 
Case  BB.  Mummy  of  a  priest,  with  elaborate  gilded  ornamentation  (ca. 
B.C.  200).  —  Case  DD.  6704.  Finely  swathed  mummy  (100  A.D.);  6707. 
Mummy  of  Cleopatra  Candace  (100  A.D.).  —  Case  FF.  Coffin  of  Cleopatra 
Candace.  —  On  the  other  side,  as  we  return :  Case  AA.  Mummy  of  a  musician, 
with  the  cymbals  found  lying  upon  the  body.  Below,  hands  of  mummies, 
one  with  a  gold  finger-ring.  —  Case  Y.  Mummy  of  a  lady,  with  a  painted 
portrait  (150  A.D.).  —  Case  U.  Mummy  of  another  Tchet-hra  (550  B.C.).  — 
Case  S.  Coffins  and  mummy  of  Seshepsebhet  (650  B.C.),  finely  swathed.  — 
Wall  Cases:  Cases  70-72.  Interesting  Coptic  pall,  with  Christian  symbols 
(ca.  A.D.  400);  portrait  of  a  Greek  girl  from  Memphis  (1st  cent.  A.D.).  The 
above-mentioned  are  the  oldest  known  portraits  on  wood.  —  Cases  73-76, 
Canopic  jars,  in  which  were  interred  the  embalmed  intestines  of  the  mum- 
mies. —  Cases  77-85.  Ushabti  figures  in  limestone,  marble,  steatite,  wood, 
etc.,  which  were  buried  with  the  mummies  to  serve  the  deceased  in  the 
lower  world.  —  Ccues  86-88.  Pectorals,  masks,  and  other  parts  of  coffins.  — 
Cases  89-92.  Ptah-Sokharls-Osiris  figures,  deposited  with  the  dead,  each 
containing  a  religions  papyrus  and  a  portion  of  the  body. 

Third  Egyptian  Boom.  Wall  Cases.  Cases  93-96.  Mummies  of  ani- 
mals. Cases  97-98.  Head-rests  in  wood  and  clay.  Cases  99-110.  In  the  top 
row  are  inscribed  stelse  and  models  of  boats  used  in  transporting  the  dead 
across  the  Nile  to  the  cemeteries  on  the  W.  bdnk.  In  the  middle  row  are 
small  portrait-figures  of  royal  and  distinguished  personages.  In  the  bottom 
row  are  canopic  jars,  agricultural  and  other  implements,  terracotta  models 


The  West  End.    25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  311 

of  Egyptian  dwellings  (360O  B.C.-lOO  A.D.).  In  Ca^e  110  also,  Sepulcbral 
cones,  bearing  the  namea  of  the  deceased  in  whose  graves  they  were  found. 

—  Gcuet  111-118.  Ushabti-boxes.  Cattt  119-132  contain  an  extensive  col- 
lection of  small  figures  of  Egyptian  gods  in  various  materials,  and  of  the 
animals  sacred  to  them.  —  Coset  133-136.  Mummies  of  birds  and  reptiles. 
~  Tabls  Casbs.  Cflue  A.  Shoes  and  sandals,  of  wood,  leather,  and  papyrus 
(1700  B.C.-400  A.D.).  —  Case  G.  Writing-apparatus  and  materials ;  wax- 
tablets,  ostraca  or  potsherds  used  for  writing  on;  above,  inscribed  lime- 
stone tablets.    CcueE.  Spinning  implements;  linen  fabrics-,  wooden  tools. 

—  CaseH.  Wig  found  in  a  temple  at  Thebes  (about  B.C.  1000);  reed  wig- 
box;  toilet  articles;  also  some  beautiful  specimens  of  Egyptian  metal  work 
(Bronze  statuette  of  Kectanebus  II. ;  Silver  figure  of  Amen- ELa;  Gold  figure 
of  Chonsu).  Below  are  dried  fruits  and  foods,  and,  still  lower,  stone 
vessels.  —  Case  J.  Ornamented  grave  clothes  of  the  Coptic  and  Arab 
periods  (900-900  A.D.).  Case  L.  Antiquities  and  models  of  the  archaic 
period.  —  On  the  other  side  as  we  return:  Case  M.  Flint  implements  of 
the  Stone  Age.  Case  K.  Tools  in  wood,  stone,  and  metal.  Cases  I.  and  D. 
contain  tomb-frescoes  from  Thebes  (1600-1450  B.C.).  —  In  Frames  0.  and  F. 
are  facsimiles  of  passages  in  the  Book  of  the  Dead.  —  Case  B.  Bronze 
weapons. 

Tourth  Egyptian  Boom.  Wall  Cases.  Cases  137-142.  Vessels  in 
alabaster.  Cases  143-150.  Egyptian  painted  and  glazed  earthenware  (B.C. 
1700-400).  Cases  151-157.  Small  figures,  etc.  in  Egyptian  porcelain.  In  the 
lower  part  of  the  cases,  glazed  tiles  from  Tell  el-Yehildiyeh.  Casu  168-170. 
Earthenware  (B.C.  600-300):  l^o.  22,356  (Case  159),  neck  of  a  wine-jar, 
sealed  with  the  seal  of  Aahmes  U.  (B.C.  572).  Cases  171-174.  Painted 
earthenware,  etc.,  of  the  Greek  period.  Case  176.  Bricks,  stamped  with 
the  names  of  kings.  Cases  176-181.  Figures  of  gods,  men,  and  animals 
in  bronze  and  terracotta;  terracotta  and  porcelain  lamps,  etc.  (Greeco- 
Boman  period).  Series  of  sunk  reliefs  in  sandstone  from  Ptolemaic  temples. 
Cases  182-187.  Mirrors  and  mirror-cases ;  baskets ;  boxes ;  vases  and  tubes 
for  eye-salve,  etc.  —  Cases  188-190.  Chairs  and  seats  of  various  kinds. 
Cases  191-193.  Portrait  and  votive  figures  of  kings,  priests,  ladies,  etc. 
Cases  194-204.  Vessels  in  variegated  marble,  stone,  and  alabaster.  — 
Tabls  Casks.  Case  A.  Musical  instruments,  spoons,  ivory  ornaments,  glass 
bottles  and  vases.  Case  B.  Beads  in  porcelain  and  glass;  mod^n  forgeries 
of  Egyptian  antiquities.  Adjacent,  under  glass,  head  of  a  porphyry  statue 
of  Bamses  II.  from  Thebes  (ca.  B.C.  1330).  Case  C.  Bronze  implements 
and  vessels ;  toys,  draughtsmen,  dice,  etc.  Below,  models  of  a  granary  and  a 
house.  Cases  2),  E,  and  O.  contains  scarabs  and  cylinders,  used  as  amulets, 
in  steatite,  stone,  carnelian,  porcelain,  etc.  Those  in  Case  D.  are  inscribed 
with  the  names  of  kings  and  queens  (4400-250  B.C.).  —  Case  F.  Necklaces. 

—  Case  H.  *Throne,  with  gilded  ornaments,  from  Thebes  (Qrseco-Boman 
period);  ivory  and  wooden  draughtsmen;  draught-board;  blue  porcelain 
beads.  Case  I.  Scarabs  in  basalt.  —  Case  J.  Rings,  bracelets,  amulets, 
etc.,  in  gold,  silver,  carnelian,  and  other  materials  (1700-100  B.C.).  —  Case  K. 
Miscellaneous  small  articles  in  porcelain.  Case  L.  Domestic  furniture. 
C<ue  M.  Antiquities  of  late  periods:  terracottas  of  Grseco-Roman  period; 
ivory  ornaments,  leaden  weights,  etc.  Coptic  crosses,  bells,  etc.;  moulds, 
bronze  stamps,  silver  and  bronze  articles ;  potsherds  with  Coptic  inscriptions. 
Ceue  N.  Gnostic  gems,  engraved  with  magic  iormulse,  gods,  demons, 
animals,  etc. 

Babylonian  and  Aasyrian  Boom.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance :  90,850. 
Boundary-stone  (B.C.  1320);  92,  988.  Black  basalt  figure  (headless)  of  King 
Gudea  of  Babylon  (about  B.C.  2500).  Opposite  (right).  Cast  of  the  Stele  of 
Hammurabi  (now  in  the  Louvre)  on  which  is  engraved  the  civil  code  of 
the  Chaldseans,  the  most  ancient  code  of  laws  known  (ca.  2000  B.C.).  The 
relief  at  the  top  shows  the  sun-god  Shamash  handing  to  the  king  the  style 
with  which  to  write  the  laws.  Behind  (91,025)  is  a  cast  of  another  figure 
of  King  Gudea,  with  an  archaic  cuneiform  inscription.  —  The  Wall  Cases 
on  the  left  side  of  the  room  (Kos.  1-22)  contain  inscribed  bricks,  boundary- 
stones,  landmarks,  gate-sockets,  and  statues  from  Babylonia,  Assyria,  Elam, 


312.  25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     TheWesiEfid. 

Van,  and  Persia  (6.0.4500-600).  Those  to  the  right  (23-U)  contain  bronzes, 
glass  vessels,  alabaster  figures,  earthenware  coffins,  and  utensils  from 
Babylonia,  Assyria,  and  Van  (B.C.  2500  to  100  A.D.).  —  Floor  due*  on  the 
left:  A,  E.  Babylonian  inscribed  tablets  of  baked  clay,  with  clay  envelopes 
m.G.  2900  2000) ;  C.  Babylonian  inscribed  stones,  Ublets,  and  cones  (B.C.  4500- 
2400) <  a.  Clay  cylinders  with  inscriptions  (B.C.  623-100);  I.  Babylonian 
inscribed  tablets  with  hymns,  calendars,  etc.  —  Floor  Ceuet  on  the  right: 
B.  Sumerian  tablets  of  the  Kings  of  Ur  (ca.  B.C.  2400)  *,  letters  in  the  Babylonian 
■  language  from  Hammurabi  and  oth«'r  kings  (B.C.  2200-2U00).  D.  Assyrian 
cylinders  and  seal-cylinders  (B.C.  2500-360)-,  F.  Tablets  from  Tell  el-Amama 
Getters  and  despatches  of  Kings  of  Mesopotamia;  ca.  B.C.  1450);  H.  Assyrian 
cylinders  (B.C.  706-623)  and  objects  in  gold  and  ivory,  necklaces,  etc.,  of 
the  Assyrian,  Persian,  and  Parthian  periods ;  J.  Seals,  rings,  and  gems  with 
bustfl,  mystic  symbols,  names,  and  mottoes  in  the  Pehlevi  character  (Sas- 
sanide  period;  226-632  A.  D.). 

We  have  now  reached  the  American  Room  of  the  Ethnograph- 
ical Department  (see  p.  319).  It  is  adjoined  by  a  staircase  de- 
scending to  the  King's  Library  (p.  294).  The  Second  North  Gal- 
LEBY  consists  of  a  series  of  smaller  rooms  parallel  with  those 
just  described.  The  first  three  (from  this  end)  are  occupied  by  col- 
lections illustrating  Beligions  of  the  East  and  Early  Christianity ; 
the  two  following  contain  the  Semitic  Antiquities. 

Belif  ious  Oollections.  Boom  I  (Y).  Eablt  Ghbibtianitt.  Wall  Oases  1-13. 
Latin  Christianity.  Bronze  lamps;  silver  spoons,  chalices,  and  patens;  in 
Cases  6,  7,  8.  *Silyer  Treasure  found  at  Kome  in  1793,  including  large  silver 
bridal-casket;  ivory  carvings;  terracotta  lamps.  —  Gases  14,  16.  Cfreek 
Church.  Small  enamelled  ikons;  iron  penitential  crown.  —  Cases  16-20.  Abys- 
sinian Church.  Silk  altar-cloth ;  gilt  and  brass  crosses ;  silver  patens,  cha- 
lices, lamps.  —  Cases  21-26.  Coptic  Church.  *Cedar  door-panels;  wood- 
carvings;  gravestone  from  Upper  Egypt;  limestone  fragments  with  writ- 
ings in  Greek  and  Coptic.  In  the  lower  part  of  Gases  24-26  are  so-called 
Gnostic  articles,  of  uncertain  date.  —  The  Table  Cases  contain  smaller 
objects,  of  great  interest  and  beauty. 

Boom  II  (IV).  Eastebk  Beligions.  Wall  Gases  1-24.  Brahmanism  or 
Hindoo  Mythology.  —  Gases  23,  24.  Jfepal.  —  Gases  25-29.  Java.  —  Case  30. 
Bali  (Asiatic  Archipelago).  —  Case  31.  Siam.  —  On  the  lower  shelves  of 
Gases  30-46.  Jainism.    —  Cases  32-34.  Judaism.  —  Gases  35-37.  Islamiam. 

—  Gases  38-40.  Shintoitm.  In  the  glass-case  in  the  centre  of  the  room  is 
the  model  of  a  Shinto  shrine  for  transferring  sacred  objects  from  the  temple 
on  festijals.  —  Cases  41-48.  Taoism.  —  Cases  44-46.  Confucianism.  — 
Gases  47,  48.  Shamanism.  —  At  the  E.  end  of  the  room  is  an  upright 
glass-case  containing  a  model  of  a  sacred  car  for  Vishnu  (?),  from  the 
Garnatic;  and  in  an  upright  case  at  the  W.  end  is  a  copy  of  the  Adi  Qrant*h, 
or  sacred  book  of  the  Sikhs,  with  the  paraphernalia  of  the  priest  who 
reads  it. 

Room  IIT.    Buddhism.    Wall  Gases  1-18.  Japan.  —  Cases  19-22.  Thibet. 

—  Gases  22-27.  China,  —  Gases  28-45.  Burma  and  8iam.  —  Gases  46-58. 
India  and  Ceylon.  —  Gases  59-76.  Ancient  India.  Sculptures,  partly  under 
classical  influence.  —  At  the  B.  end  of  Uie  room,  under  glass,  is  a  machine 
used  by  the  Shingon  sect  in  Japan  to  exorcise  the  108  demons  that  tempt 
the  human  heart  to  sin.  Adjoining,  bronze  altar-furniture  from  China. 
In  the  centre  of  the  room  are  a  Chinese  bell,  and  table-cases  with  Buddhist 
articles  (praying-mills  from  Thibet)  and  Indian  antiquities. 

Semitic  Antiquities.  This  collection  embraces  iniicriptions,  carvings, 
gravestones,  and  other  monuments  from  Phoenicia,  Palestine,  Carthage, 
and  Cyprus,  arranged  chronologically  under  these  headings  in  two  rooms. 
In  Case  29,  in  the  Semitic  Room,  is  a  cast  of  the  Modbite  Stone  (ca.  B.C. 
9(10),  which  was  discovered  by  the  Rev.  F.  Klein  in  the  land  of  Moab  in 
1868.  The  inscription  gives  an  account  of  the  wars  of  Mesha,  King  of  Moab, 
with  Omri,  Ahab,  and  Ahaziah,  Kings  of  Israel.   Soon  after  Mr.  Klein  had 


The  West  End,     26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  313 

obtained  an  impression  of  the  stone  the  latter  was  broken  into  pieces  by 
the  Arabs  \  most  of  the  fragments  have,  however,  been  recoYered  and  are 
now  in  the  Louvre.  The  glass-case  in  the  centre  contains  bronzes,  pottery, 
gems,  etc.  —  The  sculptures  and  inscriptions  in  the  Ctpbiah  Room  are 
mainly  from  Idalinm  (B.  G.  850-150). 

The  ante-room  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Second  North  Gallery  is  at 
the  head  of  the  staircase  descending  to  the  Egyptian  galleries 
(p.  310).  We  here  enter  the  rooms  to  the  left,  which  contain  the 
*Colleetion  of  Vases  and  other  objects  of  Hellenic  art. 

Pirst  Vase  Boom.  The  arrangement  of  the  painted  terracotta  vases 
in  the  cases  of  this  room  affords  an  instmctive  survey  of  the  develop- 
ment of  the  art  of  vase-painting.  To  the  left :  Cases  1-4.  Prehifltoric  pot- 
tery from  Greek  islands,  with  the  most  primitive  forms  of  geometrical  de- 
coration. Case  6.  Fragments  of  primitive  Egyptian  pottery.  Cases  10-13. 
Mycensean  period  (from  Rhodes,  etc.),  with  spiral,  waved,  and  conventional- 
ized patterns.  Cases  14-19.  Pottery  of  the  Mycensean  period,  from  Cyprus. 
Cases  20-21.  Pottery  of  the  same  period,  from  various  places  in  Greece. 
Cases  22-26.  Earlier  and  Later  (21-26)  vases  in  the  Geometric  style,  from 
Athens.  Case  27.  Similar  vases  from  Rhodes.  Cases  28,  29.  Archaic  blade 
pottery  from  Rhodes  and  Naucratia.  Cases  30-32.  Vases  of  various  kinds 
and  from  various  places.  ^  To  the  right  of  the  entrance :  Cases  33,  34. 
Small  vases  in  the  shape  of  human  heads  and  animals  (Rhodes ;  7th  cent.  B.C.). 
Cases  36, 36.  ^Fikellura'  ware,  from  Rhodes  (ca  600 B.C.).  Case  89.  Alabastra, 
or  oil -flasks  (ca.  (.OOB.C).  Cases  40-41.  Vases  illustrating  the  'rosette' 
ornamentation  in  its  early  form.  Cases  42-44.  Proto- Corinthian  vases.  Case  45. 
Terracotta  sarcophagus  from  Clazomense  in  Asia  Minor  (6th  cent.  B.C.). 
Cases  46,  47,  50,  51.  Vases  from  Naucratis.  Cases  48,  49.  Terracotta  sarco- 
phagi from  Cameiroa  in  Rhodes  and  Clazomense.  Gases  52-53.  Archaistic 
vases.  Cases  58-64.  Pottery  from  Cyprus.  —  Table  Case  A  contains  archaic 
jewellery  and  weapons  from  lalysos,  in  Rhodes,  found  along  with  the  pottery 
in  Cases  6-11.  Cases  B  and  C  contain  antiquities  from  tombs  at  (Murium 
and  Enkomi,  near  Salamis  in  Cyprus.  Table  Case  D.  Early  pottery  from 
Phaleron  (near  Athens)  and  vases  of  different  periods  from  Bceotia.  Table 
Case  E.  Khodian  and  Grseco-Egyptian  work  in  porcelain  and  glass ;  archaic 
objects  of  ivory  and  bone,  with  carved  designs.  Table  Case  F.  Archaic 
Rhodian  pottery.  Pedestal  Case  1  contains  the  Burgon  lebes  from  Athens. 
Two  other  large  cases  here  contain  an  important  sarcophagus  from  Clazo- 
menee,  painted  within  and  without  with  designs  representing  the  death  of 
Dolon,  etc.  (ca.  550  B.C.). 

Second  Vase  Room  (6th  cent.  B.  C).  The  vases  in  this  room,  also 
of  the  archaic  period,  are  almost  entirely  of  Greek  design  and  fabric,  and 
are  in  most  cases  adorned  with  black  figures  on  a  red  ground.  Cases 
10,  11,  22,  23  contain  vases  with  black  figures  on  a  white  ground.  In  Cases 
48,  49,  and  Table  Case  C,  is  a  series  of  vases  signed  by  the  potters  or 
painters.  In  Case  I  is  a  series  of  Panathenaie  prize  amphorse.  The  finest 
vases  are  in  the  middle  of  the  room.  —  The  — 

Third  Vase  Room  (5th  cent.  B.  C.)  contains  the  red-flgure  vases  of 
the  best  period,  arranged  in  the  wall- cases  according  to  thdr  shapes.  In 
Cases  41  and  42  are  drinking-cups  in  the  shape  of  animal  and  human  heads. 
Cases  17-24.  Black  ware  with  gilt  decorations  from  Capua  (350-300  B.C.). 
A  number  of  choice  vases  are  exhibited  in  pedestal-cases.  Table  Cases 
A,  B,  D,  and  E  contain  a  number  of  kylikes  with  the  artists'  signatures. 
The  lecythi  in  Table  CaseK  come  chiefly  from  Sicily  j  beautiful  Athenian 
lecythi  are  fhown  in  Table  Case  F. 

Fourth  Vaie  Room  (4th-3rd  cent.  B.  C).  Cases  1-13  contain  vases  dating 
from  the  close  of  the  best  period.  In  the  other  cases  are  vases  of  the 
period  of  the  decline  of  the  art  (end  of  4th  and  beginning  of  the  Srd  cent. 
B.C.).  In  the  centre  of  the  room  are  several  large  craters  and  a  series  of 
ten  Panathenaie  amphoree.  In  Table  Case  B  are  rhyta  (drinking-vessels) 
ending  in  animals^  heads.  Table  Case  E.  Fragments  of  moulded  reliefs, 
etc.  —  The  — 


314  f25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     TheWestEnd. 

*BroiLi6  Boom  contains  Greek  and  Roman  bronzes.  Wall  Cases  1-9. 
Candelabra,  lamps,  tripods,  vase-bandies,  feet  of  cistse,  etc.  Cases  10, 11. 
Small  bronzes  of  animals,  statuettes  of  actors.  Cases  12-19.  Larger 
statuettes  and  bronze  heads  and  busts:  827.  Hercu'es  with  the  apples  of 
the  Hesperide.**,  from  Phoenicia;  *847.  Head  of  a  poet  (wrongly  known  as 
Homer  or  Sophocles),  from  Constantinople;  835.  Bust  of  Lucius  Verus.  — 
Cases  20-30.  Kich  collection  of  bronze  statuettes  (chiefly  Roman  or  Grseco- 
Roman),  arranged  according  to  the  different  groups  of  gods  and  heroes : 
20.  Jupiter,  Serapis,  Neptane;  21.  Apollo,  Diana,  Vulcan;  22.  Minerva, 
Mars;  23,  24.  Venus,  Cupid;  25.  Mercury,  26.  Hercules,  27,  28.  Bacchus, 
Silenns,  Satyrs,  etc. ;  29.  Isis,  Harpocrates,  and  various  heroes ;  SO.  Fortune, 
Victory,  the  Seasons,  etc.  Cases  31-35.  Small  archaic  bronzes  (Cyprian, 
Etruscan,  Greek).  Ca£es  36.  37.  Handles  of  paterse,  bronze  figures  adapted 
as  vase-handles.  Cases  38-41.  Small  bronze  figures  from  various  sources. 
Cases  42-49.  Greek  bronze.?,  mainly  of  the  archaic  period,  and  slightly 
larger  in  size.  In  48  and  49  are  *Bronze3  from  Paramythia  in  Syria 
(4th  cent.  B.C.):  Dione  (?),  Apollo  bending  his  bow,  Jupiter  with  his  left 
hand  outstretched,  l^eptune  with  his  right  hand  outstretched,  one  of  the 
Dioscuri,  relief  of  Anchises  and  Venus.  —  Cases  50-53.  Etruscan,  early 
Italian,  and  Roman  statuettes.  Cases  54-60.  Bronze  bowls,  unguent  jars 
in  the  shape  of  human  heads,  candelabra.  —  Floor-case  B,  towards  the 
E.  side  of  the  room,  contains  a  selection  of  larger  bronzes :  284.  Silenus 
with  a  basket;  ^282.  Venus  putting  on  her  sandals,  from  Patras;  *1327. 
Youthful  Bacchus;  826.  Boy  playing  at  morra,  from  Foggia;  *848.  Philo- 
sopher (?),  found  at  Brindisi;  2513.  Lamp;  small  bronze  equestrian  figure, 
from  Crumentum  in  Lucania;  leg  from  a  statue,  with  an  ornamented 
greave  (5th  cent.  B.C.).  Opposite,  separately  exhibited,  are  several  choice 
bronzes:  *267.  Winged  head  (perhaps  of  Hypnos,  god  of  sleep),  Perugia; 
'^266.  Head  of  a  goddess,  from  Cappadocia;  ^.  Iconic  head,  from  Cyrene; 
10.  Marsyas,  a  Hellenistic  modification  of  a  celebrated  work  of  Myroa 
(copy  in  the  Lateran);  11.  Apollo,  a  life-sized  figure.  —  The  so-called 
circular  turret-cases  beside  Uie  entrance  and  exit  exhibit  large  bronze 
vessels  (amphora,  situla,  cistse)  of  fine  workmanship.  Behind  that  to  the 
left  of  the  entrance  is  a  small  pedestal-case  with  select  Greek  bronzes 
mostly  of  the  archaic  period  (6th  cent.  B.C.):  209.  Apollo,  perhaps  a  copy  - 
of  the  Apollo  Philesios  at  Branchidse  (p.  298),  a  work  by  Canachos;  188. 
Aphrodite  Persephone,  with  an  inscription  on  the  robe;  191.  Athena 
Promachos.  On  the  top  of  the  adjacent  table-case  A,  *192.  Small  female 
figure  with  diamond  eyes  and  drapery  inlaid  with  silver.  Table-case  A 
contains  mainly  emblemata,  or  ornamental  reliefs  to  be  attached  to  vases, 
furniture,  etc.  In  table-cases  C  and  £  are  bronze  mirrors  and  mirror- 
cases  (mainly  Etruscan).  In  table-case  D  is  a  collection  of  vase-handles. 
The  small  vases  in  the  upper  portions  of  these  cases  should  not  be  over- 
looked. Pedestal-case  3,  to  the  left  of  the  exit:  *665.  Strigil,  with  a  figure 
of  Venus  as  handle;  support  of  a  candelabrum.  Pedestal-case  4,  to  the 
right:  select  Greek  bronzes  (mirrors  and  mirror-cases). 

We  next  reach  the  — 

Room  of  Greek  and  Roman  Life.  The  first  bay,  however,  is  separately 
distinguished  as  the  Italio  Roou,  and  contains  early  Italian  antiquities, 
mainly  Etruscan:  bronze  and  terracotta  antiquities  from  tombs;  archaic 
Etruscan  paintings  on  terracotta,  sepulchral  urns,  etc.  Floor  Case  B. 
*Antiquities  from  the  PoUedrara  Tomb  near  Vulci,  including  two  archaic 
female  figures,  thin  bronze  vessels  and  apparatus,  engraved  ostrich  eggs, 
ivory  spoon,  Egyptian  scarabs,  etc. 

The  following  portion  of  the  room  is  devoted  to  a  *Collection  of 
articles  illustrating  the  daily  life  of  the  Greeks  and  Romans.  The  ex- 
hibits are  grouped  according  to  their  character,  without  reference  to 
chronology.  In  several  instances  terracotta  reliefs  and  figures  and  vase- 
paintings  are  exhibited  here  to  explain  the  use  of  the  articles  beside 
which  they  are  placed.  We  begin  with  the  wall-cases  to  the  left.  Cases  25-30. 
Furniture.  In  27  is  a  couch  erroneously  restored  as  a  chair.  Cases  31,  32. 
LamjDs,  Cases  33-86.  Kitchen  UtentiU.  The  Campanlan  fish-plates  (300  B.C.) 
in  33  should  be  noticed.  Case  37.  BtrigiU^  etc.  used  in  the  bath.  Cases  38, 89. 


The  West  End.     26,  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  315 

Water  Supply;  pipes,  stop-cocks,  fonniain-jets.  Cases  Al-ii.  WeiffJUt^  Scales, 
Steely ardt.  Cases  45,  i6.  TooU.  Cases  47, 48.  Building  Materials.  Cases  60,  51. 
Horeee  As  Carriages.  Case  52.  JgrieuUure.  Cases  53,  54.  Shipping.  880. 
Bronze  prow  of  a  ship.  Cases  55,  56.  Mutic  A  Dancing.  Gases  57,  58. 
Flowers  A  WreaXhs.  Cases  68-64.  Methods  of  Burial.  —  We  now  cross  to 
the  opposite  side  of  the  room.  Cases  94,  95.  Marriage.  Cases  96-100.  Polittrf 
d:  Religion,  illnslrated  by  inscriptions  and  religions  implements  (sacrificial 
flesh-hooks, etc.).  Case  101.  Dedications.  Cases  102-106.  Religion d:  Superstition: 
votive  objects  and  tablets,  iDScribed  imprecations,  sistra.  Cases  107-111. 
Athletic  Jb  Gladiatorial  Games.  Cases  112-119.  Defensive  Armour.  In  117  is 
an  Etruscan  helmet  dedicated  by  Hiero  I.  of  Syracuse  to  Zeus  at  Olympia, 
a  relic  from  the  battle  of  Cumee,  fought  in  B.C.  474.  —  Weapons  of  Offence 
are  exhibited  in  the  adjacent  Table-Case  £,  where  they  are  arranged 
chronologically.  The  early  iron  sword  from  Enkomi  in  Cyprus  and  the 
Roman  iron  sword  in  a  bronze  sheath  should  be  noticed.  Table-Case  E, 
close  by,  illustrates  Politics^  Slavery,  dk  Money,  In  this  case  begins  also 
the  collection  illustrating  the  Drama,  continued  in  Case  L.  —  The  table- 
cases  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  room  are  deyoted  to  interesting  collections 
of  objects  relating  to  the  Toilet  (Case  F),  the  Domestic  Arts  (Cases  G  and  H; 
spinning,  weaving,  needles,  pins,  fish-hooks,  key-rings),  Surgery  A  Medicine 
(Case  H),  Reading,  Writing,  A  Painting  (Case  I),  and  Toys  A  Games  (Case  J). 

The  S.  section  of  this  room,  containing  Romfin  terracotta  panels,  small 
Pompeian  frescoes,  etc.,  may  be  regarded  as  an  annex  of  the  Terracotta 
Room  (see  p.  316).  Table  Case  L  contains  objects  in  bone,  ivory  (tessarse 
or  theatre- tickets),  and  jet  j  Case  M,  examples  of  ancient  glazed  ware.  In 
the  B.E.  comer,  adjoinkig  the  entrance  to  the  Gold  Ornament  Room,  is 
a  mummy  from  the  Payum,  with  a  portrait  on  panel.  —  Wall  Cases  65-68, 
by  the  entrance  to  the  Terracotta  Room  (p.  316),  contain  recent  acquisitions. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Etruscan  Saloon  is  the  entrance  to  the  Coin  and 
Medal  Department  (visitors  ring  the  bell).  Standing  cases  near  this  door 
contain  a  very  interesting  and  extensive  collection  of  Greek  coins,  from 
700  B.C.  down  to  the  Christian  era,  arranged  chronologically  and  geographi- 
cally. Another  case  contains  Biblical  and  other  ancient  coins.  In  the  Coin 
Department  are  exhibited  collections  of  British  Coins  from  the  7th  to  the 
20th  cent.;  Roman  Coins,  from  the  earliest  period  to  1453  A.  D.;  Medals 
illustrating  English  History;  War  Medals;  Italian  Medals;  Medals  illustrating 
French  History ;  German  and  Dutch  Medals;  coins  and  medals  with  portraits. 

The  *Boom  of  Gold  Omaments  and  Gems  (open  till  6  p.m. 
dally,  April  to  Aug. ;  in  other  months  closed  earlier  thrice  a  week) 
lies  to  the  S.  of  the  Etruscan  Saloon.  The  collection  of  medals, 
gold  omaments,  cameos,  and  gems  preserved  here  is  very  complete 
and  extremely  valuable,  belug  probahly  the  finest  in  Europe.  It  is 
also  most  admirably  arranged. 

In  the  passage  leading  to  the  room  are  portions  of  a  magnificent  col- 
lection bequeathed  by  Sir  A.  WoUaston  Franks  in  1897.  To  the  left,  finger- 
rings  of  all  periods ;  to  the  right,  gold  ornaments  from  the  Oxas  (ca.  B.  C.  800), 
antique  jewellery  (4th  and  Srd  cent.  B.  C),  Roman,  Greek,  medieeval  and 
modem  European,  and  Oriental  jewellery.  On  the  walls  hang  some  mural 
paintings,  six  of  which  are  from  the  tombs  of  the  Nasones,  near  Rome. 

The  centre  of  the  Gem  Room  itself  is  occupied  by  a  large  case  (X), 
with  a  fine  display  of  cameos  (W.  side)  and  intaglios  (E.  side).  The 
table-case  to  the  N.  contains  archaic  gold  omaments  from  the  Greek 
islands.  On  the  top  stands  the  famous  **Portland  Vase,  which  was 
deposited  in  the  British  Museum  in  1810.  In  1845  it  was  broken  to 
pieces  by  a  madman  named  Lloyd,  but  it  was  afterwards  skilfully  recon- 
structed. The  vase,  which  is  about  1  ft.  in  height,  is  of  dark-blue  glass, 
adomed  with  beautifully  cut  reliefs  in  opaque  white  glass,  and  was  found 
in  a  tomb  at  Rome  in  the  early  part  of  the  17th  century.  It  came  for 
a  time  into  the  possession  of  Prince  Barberini,  whence  it  is  also  called 
the  'Barberini  Vase',  and  is  now   the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Portland. 


316  26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     TheWestEnd. 

The  reliefs  probably  represent  the  meeting  of  Peleus  and  Thetis,  and 
Thetis  consenting  to  be  the  wife  of  Peleas.  The  bottom,  which  h&B  been 
detached,  is  adorned  with  a  bust  of  Paris.  On  this  case; also:  Ivory 
mirror-handle  from  Gypras  (Myceneean  period);  Roman  gold  vase,  found 
off  Samos.  —  The  table-case  to  the  S  contains  Renaissance  and  later 
cameos  (on  the  N.  side)  and  personal  relics  (the  * Jnxon  medal' ;  Gibbun^s 
snuff-box  and  watch ;  Napoleon  s  snuff-box,  eic.)}  also  Anglo-Saxon,  Teutonic, 
and  later  jewellery  (on  the  S.  side).  Above  Is  placed  an  *£namelled  Gold  Cup 
or  Hanap,  formerly  in  the  possession  of  Kings  of  France  and  England  and 
purchased  in  1892  for  BOOOl.  It  was  probably  made  about  1850.  Immediately 
below  this  is  a  reproduction  of  the  ^Alfred  JtweP,  now  at  Oxford.  —  The 
table-case  to  the  W.  contains  archaic  Greek  gems  and  Etruscan  scarabs 
(outer  slope)  and  later  Greek  and  Roman  gems  (inner  slope).  Upon  it  is 
a  carved  ivory  draught-box  from  Cyprus.  In  the  three  windows  are  frames 
with  casts  of  gems  made  in  glass,  and  by  the  window-wall  are  three  cases 
with  drinking-ve°sels  of  various  materials  and  periods,  a  Roman  silver 
service,  small  silver  statuettes,  long  brooch-pins,  ivory  boxes  with  low 
reliefs,  and  a  very  valuable  series  of  *Gold  Ornaments  from  a  burial- 
place  in  Cyprus,  some  of  which  are  in  the  Mycensean  style.  —  The  cases 
along  the  N.  wall  and  part  of  the  E.  wall  contain  Etruscan,  Greek  (of  the 
best  period  and  later),  and  Roman  gold  ornaments;  and  above  are  frescoes 
from  Rome,  Pompeii,  and  Herculaneum.  —  The  other  cases  by  the  E.  wall 
contain  ancient  Barbaric,  British,  and  Irish  gold  ornaments.  Above  are 
silver  ornaments  from  Algeria,  Norway,  and  Abyssinia.  —  In  the  wall- 
cases  to  the  S.  are  gold  ornaments  from  India  and  Central  America,  and 
^n  extensive  collection  of  finger-rings.  Above  are  silver  ornaments  from 
England,  Bolivia,  and  Russia,  and  gold  ornaments  from  Ashantee. 

The  next  room  contains  tbe  Terracotta  Antiquities.  The 
specimens  here  are  aiianged  chronologically  in  the  wall-cases  (be- 
ginning at  the  opposite  or  E.  end  of  the  room),  the  Greek  and  Gisco- 
l^hoBnician  terracottas  being  to  the  right,  the  Grsoo-Romau  terra- 
cottas to  the  left.  The  finest  figures,  from  Tanagra,  Eretria,  and 
Asia  Minor  (4th  cent.  B.C.),  are  in  Cases  9-16  (to  the  right). 

Floor-cases  at  the  W.  end  of  the  room  contain  large  female  figures 
in  terracotta  (Roman)  and  specimens  of  Aski^  or  vases  shaped  like  a  wine- 
skin. Case  D  (farther  on).  Sarcophagus  with  the  semi- recumbent  figare 
of  a  lady  on  the  ]id  and  various  objects  found  within  it  (2nd  cent.  B.C.). 
Table  Case  C.  Grotesque  figures  and  masks;  terracotta  moulds.  In  the 
next  case  is  a  large  terracotta  sarcophagus  from  Caere,  with  lifeslze  male 
and  female  figures  on  the  lid,  modelled  in  the  round  (6th  cent.  B.C.). 

We  now  enter  the  Central  Saloon,  at  the  top  of  the  Great  Stair- 
case, which  contains  the  Anglo-Roman  Antiquities,  in  the  centre ; 
the  Prehistoric  Antiquilifs,  in  the  N.  division  (to  the  left;  with  a 
gallery) ;  and  a  collection  of  PreMstoric  Antiquities  from  France,  to 
the  S.  — Near  the  top  of  the  Great  Staircase  is  an  interesting  clock, 
constructed  in  1589  by  Isaac  Habrecht ,  the  maker  of  the  famous 
clock  at  Stras3burg.  —  We  begin  with  the  — 

Frehistorio  Antiquities,  which  are  arranged  chronologically.  The  Gal- 
lery, reached  by  the  W.  spiral  staircasa  (marked  *Up'),  is  devoted  to  the 
Stone  Age;  Cases  99-126  illustrate  the  Palaeolithic  or  Early  Stone  Period; 
Cases  127-152  the  Neol'thie  or  Lattr  Stone  Period.  —  The  fioor  of  the  room 
is  mainly  occupied  by  anti^uiiies  of  the  Bronze  Period^  beginning  with 
Wall-Case  1.  Ca  es  21-30  contain  the  Greenwell  Collection  of  Antiquities  from 
British  Barrows^  dating  from  the  later  stone  age  and  the  early  brooze  age. 
In  the  large  Case  S,  in  the  centre  of  the  room,  are  interesting  remains  from 
Lake  DweUinge  in  Switzerland  and  Savoy.  —  The  wall-cases  at  the  E.  end 
of  the  room  contain  the  antiquities  of  the  Early  Iron  Age,  coming  down 


TheWestEnd,    26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  317 

to  about  the  beginning  of  the  Christian  era.  —  Selected  antiquities  of  all 
the  periods  are  exhibited  in  the  table-ca^es. 

Anglo-Bomaa  Antiqnities  (43-410  A.  D.).  In  the  middle  of  the  room 
are  a  eolosaal  bronze  bast  of  Hadrian  from  the  Thames  valley,  a  statuette 
of  an  emperor,  and  an  interesting  bronee  helmet.  The  adjoir  ing  table- 
cases  contain  small  Boman  and  Bomano-British  antiquities:  pottery,  bronze, 
glaas,  etc.  In  the  wall-cases  next  the  Great  Staircase  are  vessels  of  glass, 
pewter,  and  metal{  bronse  figures,  among  which  are  three  of  Mars,  several 
good  statuettes  found  In  the  valley  of  the  Thames,  a  fine  figure  of  an 
archer,  and  a  gilt  figure  of  Hercules ;  silver  votive  ornaments  \  and  sculptures. 

The  8.  division  of  the  Saloon  is  mainly  occupied  by  the  Morel  Collection 
of  French  Frehistorie  Antiquities. 

The  room  oocupied  by  the  Anglo-Saxon  Antiquities  ig  entered 
from  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Central  Saloon. 

In  the  wall-cases  are  the  antiquities  found  in  England,  consisting  ot 
cinerary  urns,  swords  and  knives  (some  inscribed),  a  runic  cross,  silver 
ornaments,  bronse  articles,  etc.  In  Cases  23-26  is  a  collection  of  foreign 
Teutonic  antiquities  of  similar  date,  the  most  noticeable  of  which  are 
the  contents  of  a  Livonian  grave.  In  the  centre-cases  are  ornaments, 
weapons,  and  matrices  of  seals.  Near  the  exit,  under  glass,  is  a  casket 
carved  out  of  whale's  bone. 

Beyond  the  Anglo-Saxon  Room  is  the  *Waddesdon  Bequest 
Boom,  containing  a  fine  collection  of  works  of  art  of  the  cinqnecento 
period,  bequeathed  to  the  Museum  by  Baron  Ferdinand  Rothschild 
Cd.  1898)  of  Waddesdon  Manor,  and  yalued  at  300,0002.  The  ob- 
jects include  plate,  enamels,  Jewellery,  boxwood  carvings,  bronzes, 
arms  and  armour,  majolica,  and  glass.  Comp.  Catalogue  by  C.  II. 
Head  (6d.). 

Case  A  (to  the  left  of  the  entrance) :  *1.  Bronze  medallions  from  the 
handles  of  a  litter,  with  heads  of  Bacchantes  (Greek-,  3rd  cent.  B.C.);  8,  4. 
Bronze  door-knockers  (Ital.;  16th  cent.)-,  *6.  Iron  shield  with  reliefs, 
damascened  with  gold ,  by  Giorgio  Ohi$i  of  Mantaa  (1554) ;  19.  Beliquary  . 
of  champlevtf  enamel  (Limoges;  ca.  1180-90).  —  Case  B:  8,  9.  Arquebuses, 
with  highly  ornamented  stocks  and  barrels  (French ;  16th  cent.) ;  12.  Bapier, 
with  damascened  hilt  (Ital.;  16th  cent.);  24.  Enamel  portrait  of  Catherine 
of  Lorraine .  by  Litnouein  (Limoges ;  late  16th  cent.) ;  other  enamels.  — 
Case  C:  80,  81.  Enamel  dishes  by  Martial  Courtoie  ^imoges-,  ca.  1580); 
83.  Similar  dish  "by  Jean  Courtois  (Limoges;  ca.  1660);  48.  Similar  dish  by 
Stuanne  Court  (Limoges;  late  16th  cent.);  *261  Uiniature  busts  of  a  man 
and  woman  in  walnut  wood  (German;  ca.  1630).  —  Case  D  (in  the  oppo- 
site corner  of  the  room):  Enamels,  including  (39)  an  interesting  portrait 
of  Diana  of  Poitiers  (Limoges ;  ca.  1550).  —  Case  E :  53.  Glass  goblet,  with 
enamels  (Arab  work,  mounting  French;  14th  cent.);  54.  Slosque  lamp 
(Arab  work;  14th  cent ):  other  specimens  of  glass;  60,  63,  64.  Italian  majo- 
lica. —  Case  F:  '87.  Silver  book-cover  (German;  ca.  1600);  97.  Set  of  twelve 
silver  tazse,  embossed  and  chased  (Ger. ;  ca.  iS80) ;  104.  Standing  cup  and 
cover  of  silver  gilt  (Ger. ;  ca.  1600) ;  103,  106.  Similar  cups.  —  Case  G  (cen- 
tral row,  opposite  door):  100.  Standing  cup  (Venetian?);  101,  102,  106, 
107,  109.  Stonding  cups;  112.  Ostrich-e^jg  cup  (Ger.;  1564);  *118.  Standing 
cup,  with  cameos  (French;  ca.  1550);  121.  Onyx  cup,  with  miner  as  support 
(Ger.;  ca.  1650).  —  Case  H:  149.  Pendent  jewel  of  gold,  with  figures  of 
Charity.  Faith,  and  Fortitude  (Ger. ;  16th  cent.) ;  151.  Jewel,  with  Cleopatra 
rl6th  cent.);  156.  Jewel  in  the  form  of  a  hippocamp  (Ger. ;  16th  cent.);  *167. 
So-called  ^LyteJewer,  containing  a  portrait  of  James  I.  (by  Billiard)  and 
given  by  this  king  to  Thomas  Lyte  (Engl^  17th  cent.);  171.  Hat-jewel  of 
Don  John  of  Austria  (Ital.;  16th  cent.);  177.  Pendant  (Ger.:  16th  cent.).  — 
Case  J:  66.  Gold  cup  adorned  with  pearls  (Ger.;  ca.  1600);  *68.  Boman 
vase  of  mottled  agate,  in  Benaissance  mount;  77.  Bock-crystid  cup,  in  gold 
mount  (Ger.;  16th  cent.);  79.  Bock-crystal  vase  with  cartouche  containing 


318  25.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     ThcWestEnd, 

the  name  of  Emp.  Akbar  of  India;  81.  Jade  cap  (Ger. ;  16th  cent.);  195-200. 
Gold  rings;  201-213.  Knives,  forks,  and  spoons.  —  Case  K:  231.  Devotional 
carving  attached  to  a  ring  (carving  probably  English;  ca.  1340);  *282. 
Hiniainre  altar,  carved  in  boxwood  (Flemish ;  1611) ;  233.  Miniature  taber- 
nacle in  boxwood,  elaborately  carved,  once  perhaps  the  property  of  Emp. 
Charles  Y.  (Flem.;  ca.  16201;  242.  Medallion  of  John  of  Leyden  (1610^) 
in  boxwood  (Ger. ;  16th  cent.).  —  Case  L :  131-146.  Standing  cnps  and  other 
plate ;  217-221.  Caskets  in  ebony,  ivory,  silver-gilt,  and  amber ;  234.  Retable 
of  black  wood,  with  pearwood  panels  (Ger. ;  16th  cent.).  —  Case  M  (at  the 
E.  end  of  the  room):  16.  Damascened  cabinet  (Milanese;  16th  cent.);  61,  62. 
Vases  of  Urbino  ware  (i6th  cent.);  65.  Amphitrite.  terracotta  figure  (Ital. ; 
16th  cent.);  259.  Wooden  statuette  of  St.  George  (Ger.;  15th  cent.);  260. 
Statuette  of  St.  Catharine  (Flem. ;  16th  cent.). 

The  Medlffival  Room,  parallel  with  the  preceding  and  entered 
from  the  Prehistoric  Saloon,  contains  the  medieval  objects,  except- 
ing the  glass  and  pottery. 

MedisBval  Boom.  Cases  4-9.  Arms  and  armour ;  10-20.  Oriental,  Venetian, 
and  other  metal  work;  21-26.  Astrolabes  and  clocks,  including  a  time- 
piece in  the  form  of  a  ship,  probably  made  for  the  Emperor  Rudolph  II. 
(1576-1612);  27-30.  Ecclesiastical  objects  in  metal;  31,  32.  Limoges  and 
other  enamels  (in  the  lower  part  of  27-29,  Embroideries,  etc.);  33,  84.  Paint- 
ings from  St.  Stephen's  Chapel  at  Westminster  (1366);  36-43.  Ivory  carvings  ; 
below,  old  English  work  in  alabaster:  44-49.  Caskets  carved  in  wood, 
ivory,  etc.  On  the  wall,  Franconian  wood-carving  (16th  cent.).  Cases  50-52. 
Brasses  and  other  sepulchral  objects.  Table  Case  A  contains  historical 
and  personal  relics:  the  *GIenlyon  brooch*,  Gibbon^s  dress-sword,  state 
sword  of  Edward  V.  when  Prince  of  Wales,  Bums's  punch-bowl.  Also, 
enamelled  badges  and  Russian  cups.  Table  Case  B :  Domeatio  objects,  English 
fruit  trenchers  (16th  cent.),  keys,  calendars.  Table  Cases  C  and  D:  Matrices 
of  English  and  Foreign  SeaU  and  Weights.  Table  Case  E :  Enamels,  in- 
cluding specimens  of  French  (chiefly  Limoges),  Italian,  and  German  work- 
manship. Table  Case  F:  Carvings  in  ivory,  rock-crystal,  mother-of-pearl, 
and  other  materials.  Table  Case  G :  Watches  and  dials.  Table  Case  H : 
■  Chamberlains*  keys ;  portraits  on  preased  horn  and  tortoiae-shell ;  collection 
of  papal  rings.  Table  Case  K:  Watches,  medallions,  and  dials.  Table 
Case  L:  Objects  used  in  games;  curious  set  of  chessmen  of  the  12th  cent., 
from  the  island  of  Lewis  in  the  Hebrides,  made  of  walrus  tusk. 

The  Asiatic  Saloon.  The  numbering  of  the  wall-cases  begins  on  the 
opposite  (E.)  side  of  the  room.  Cases  1-20.  Japanese  pottery;  21-^.  Japanese 
DOrcelain;  39-41.  Pottery  and  porcelain  from  Annam,  Slam,  and  Borneo; 
42-71.  Chinese  porcelain ;  72-77.  Chinese  porcelain  made  for  European  cus- 
tomers in  the  17-I8th  cent.,  and  frequently  mistaken  for  Lowestoft  ware; 
78-80.  Chinese  pottery  and  stoneware ;  81-85.  Chinese  bronzes ;  86-1^.  Carv- 
ings in  jade,  ivory,  etc.;  enamels;  89-91.  Lacquer-work  and  articles  in  ivory 
and  tortoiseshell.  Cases  92-100  contain  a  collection  from  E.  Turkestan,  in- 
cluding decorative  architectonic  fragments,  heads  of  statues,  small  terra- 
cotta heads,  small  reliefs  in  stucco,  and  numerous  documents  inscribed 
on  wood  and  leather.  —  The  detached  cases  contain  Japanese  and  Chinese 
porcelain  and  Japanese  antiquities,  sword-guards,  and  ivory  carvings  (net- 
suk^s).  —  ITear  the  entrance  to  the  White  Wing  is  a  large  *Va8e  made 
at  Sevres,  painted  by  Taxile  Doat  in  1895. 

From  the  Asiatic  Saloon  we  turn  to  the  right  into  the  rooms 
of  the  Whitb  Building  (see  p.  291),  which  contains  the  collec- 
tions of  Glass  and  Pottery  and  also  the  Department  of  Prints  and 
Drawings.  The  latter  contains  an  nnri vailed  collection  of  original 
drawings,  engravings,  and  etchings.  The  use  of  this  collection 
was  long  practically  restricted  to  students,  who  obtain  tickets  on 
written  application  to  the  Principal  Librarian  (see  p.  320),  but  the 


TheWest  End.    26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.  319 

spacious  new  rooms  built  for  it  in  1884  include  a  flue  Exhibition 
Gallery  (see  below),  the  contents  of  which  are  changed  every  three 
years.  Foreigners  and  trayellers  may  obtain  access  to  the  SiuderUa' 
Rooms  on  giving  in  their  names.  Comp.  the  Handbook  to  the  'De- 
partment*, by  Louis  Fagan  (S$,  6d.)- 

We  first  enter  the  — 

SngUsh  Oeramie  Ante-Boom,  containing  pottery  and  porcelain  chiefly 
bought  from  Mr.  Willett  or  given  by  Sir  A.  W.  Franks.  To  the  right  on  enter- 
ing: Wall-tiles  from  Malvern  (1457-53)^  Cases  1-8  Oeft).  Early  English  Pot- 
tery (li-i7th  cent.)}  9-20.  Glazed  Ware  of  the  i7-18th  cent.;  21-26.  Eng- 
lish Pottery,  chiefly  from  Staffordshire;  27-82.  Pavement  Tiles  (18-16th 
cent.);  38.  Fulham  Stoneware  (i7th  cent.);  85-46.  English  Porcelain  (that  in 
the  last  four  cases  inferior);  47-60.  Liverpool  Tiles,  transfer-printed,  by 
Sadler.    The  upright  case  contains  a  collection  of  so-called  'Chelsea  Toys'. 

Glass  and  Oeramie  Ckdlery,  including  the  valuable  Slade  Collection  of 
Glass.  Wall  Cases  1,  2.  English  Delft ,  chiefly  made  at  Lambeth  in  the 
17- 18th  cent. ;  3-7.  Dutch  and  German  Delft;  8.  Italian  Pottery;  9-23.  Italian 
Majolica;  24-26.  Spanish  Pottery;  27-31.  Bhddian  and  Damascus  Ware; 
82,  83.  Persian  Pottery;  34,  36.  French  Pottery;  87-45.  Antique  Glass, 
chiefly  of  the  Roman  period;  46-54.  Venetian  Glass;  66-58.  German  Glass; 
59.  Chinese  Glass;  60,  61.  Oriental  Glass;  62.  French  Glass;  63.  EngUsh 
Glass;  64-66.  Wedgwood  and  other  SUffordshire  wares  and  Bristol  Delft. 
The  table-cases  contain  Wedgwood  medallions;  antique,  German,  Dutch, 
and  Venetian  glass;  English  engraved  glass;  Oriental  pottery,  etc.  Above 
the  cases  are  13  busts,  modelled  in  clay  by  Roubiliac,  of  Milton,  Sir  Isaac 
Newton,  Sir  Hans  Sloane,  Cromwell,  etc. 

The  Print  and  Drawing  Exhibition  Gallery  is  at  present  occupied  by 
an  exhibition  of  ^Mezzotint  Engravings,  chiefly  from  the  Cheylesmore 
Collection,  bequeathed  to  the  Museum  in  1902.  ^The  prints  here  put  on 
yiew%  says  the  official  catalogue  (3d.)  'are  all  picked  impressions,  chosen 
with  a  view,  first  to  their  technical  quality,  so  as  to  represent  the  art  in 
its  several  stages  at  its  best  and  most  effective ;  and  secondly  to  their 
historical  interest,  so  as  to  form  a  full  and  varied  gallery  of  national 
portraiture  from  the  Restoration  to  the  Regency\ 

We  now  return  to  the  Asiatic  Saloon  and  begin  our  inspection 
of  the  extensive  and  interesting  Ethnographical  Collection,  which 
is  arranged  topographically  and  occupies  the  whole  of  the  East 
Oallbbt.  The  Asiatic  Section  is  first  entered;  then  follow  the 
Oceanic,  African,  and  American  Sections,  each  containing  a  great 
variety  of  objects  illustrating  the  habits,  dress,  warfare,  handicrafts, 
etc.,  of  the  less  civilized  inhabitants  of  the  different  quarters  of 
the  globe.  In  the  American  room  the  table -case  in  the  centre 
contains  Mexican  antiquities.  The  mosaic  work  of  turquoise,  mala- 
chite, obsidian,  and  shells  should  be  especially  noticed. 

At  the  top  of  the  N.E.  Staircase  are  Mexican  sculptures  from 
Tabasco  and  sculptures  from  Honduras.  On  the  staircase- walls  are 
casts  of  heads  from  monuments  at  Thebes. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  spacious  entrance-hall,  facing  the  entrance 
door,  is  a  passage  leading  to  the  *Beading  Boom,  constructed  in 
1854-57  at  a  cost  of  150,000J.  and  redecorated  in  1907;  it  is  open 
from  9  a.m.  to  7  or  8  p.m.  (closed  on  the  first  four  days  of  March  and 
September,  as  well  as  on  Good  Friday  and  Christmas  Day).  This 
imposing  circular  hall,  covered  by  a  large  dome  of  glass  and  iron 


320  26.  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM.     TheWestEnd. 

(140  ft.  in  diameter,  ox  2  ft.  larger  than  the  dome  of  St.  Peter's  at 
Rome,  and  106  ft.  high),  has  ample  accommodation  for  458  readers  or 
writers.  Around  the  superintendent,  v^ho  ocoupies  a  raised  seat  in 
the  centre  of  the  room,  are  circular  cases  containing  the  General 
Catalogue  for  the  use  of  the  readers  (printed  in  800  toIs.)  and  Tarions 
special  catalogues  and  indexes,  one  of  the  most  generally  useful 
heing  Mr,  O,  K,  Forteacuet  'Subject  Index  of  Modem  Books'.  On  the 
top  of  these  cases  lie  printed  f^ms  to  he  filled  up  with  the  name 
and  'press-mark'  (t.e.  reference,  indicated  in  the  catalogue  by 
letters  and  numerals,  to  its  position  in  the  book-cases)  of  the  work 
required,  and  the  number  of  the  seat  chosen  by  the  applicant  at 
one  of  the  tables,  which  radiate  from  the  centre  of  the  room  like 
the  spokes  of  a  wheel.  The  form  when  filled  up  is  put  into  a  little 
basket,  placed  for  this  purpose  on  the  counter.  One  of  the  atten- 
dants will  then  procure  the  book  required,  and  send  it  to  the 
reader's  seat.  About  20,000  vols,  of  the  books  in  most  frequent 
request,  such  as  dictionaries,  encyolopsedias,  histories,  peziodicals, 
etc.,  are  kept  on  the  ground-floor  shelves  of  the  reading-room  it- 
self, and  may  be  used  without  any  application  to  the  library-offi- 
cials; while  coloured  plans,  showing  the  positions  of  the  various 
categories  of  these  books,  are  distributed  throughout  the  room. 
Every  reader  is  provided  with  a  chair,  a  folding  desk,  a  small 
hinged  shelf  for  books,  pens  and  ink,  a  blotting-pad,  and  a  peg 
for  his  hat.  The  reader  will  probably  find  the  arrangements  of  the 
British  Museum  Reading  Room  superior  to  those  of  most  public 
libraries,  while  the  obliging  civility  of  the  attendants,  and  the  free- 
dom from  obtrusive  supervision  and  restrictions  are  most  grateful. 
The  electric  light  has  been  introduced  into  the  Reading  Room  and 
Galleries.  —  A  DeBcription  of  the  Reading  Room  may  be  had  from 
an  attendant  (lc2.). 

Tickets  for  visitors  to  the  Reading  Room  are  obtained  on  the  right 
side  of  the  entrance-hall.  Visitors  are  not  allowed  to  walk  through 
the  Reading  Room,  but  may  view  it  from  the  doorway.  Persons  de- 
sirous of  using  the  Reading  Room  must  send  a  written  application  to' 
the  Principal  Librarian,  specifying  their  names,  rank  or  profession, 
purpose,  and  address,  and  enclosing  a  recommendation  from  some 
well-known  householder  in  London.  The  applicant  must  not  be 
under  21  years  of  age.  The  permission,  which  is  granted  usually  for 
six  months  at  a  time,  is  not  transferable  and  is  subject  to  withdrawal. 
The  Reading  Room  tickets  entitle  to  the  use  of  the  new  Newspaper 
Room  (comp.  p.  294).  —  Besides  the  main  reading-room  there  is  a 
special  room  for  students  in  the  Department  of  MSS.  and  another 
for  students  of  Oriental  books  and  MSS.  —  The  Libraries  contain  a 
collection  of  books  and  manuscripts,  rivalled  in  extent  by  the 
National  Library  of  Paris  alone.  The  number  of  printed  volumes 
is  about  2,000,000,  and  It  Increases  at  the  rate  of  about  60,000 
volumes  per  annum.  The  books  occupy  about  40  miles  of  shelving. 


321 


26.  St.  JameB^B  Palace  and  Park.  Buckingham  Palace. 

The  Bite  of  St.  James's  Palace  (PI.  R,  22 ;  IV),  an  inegulai  brick 
building  at  the  S.  end  of  St.  James's  Street,  was  originally  occupied 
by  a  hospital  for  lepers,  founded  before  1190  and  dedicated  to  St. 
James  the  Less.  In  1532  the  building  came  into  the  possession  of 
Henry  YUJ.,  who  erected  in  its  place  a  royal  palace,  said  to  have  been 
designed  by  Holbein.  Here  Queen  Mary  died  in  1558.  Charles  I.  slept 
here  the  night  before  his  execution,  and  walked  across  St.  James's 
Park  to  Whitehall  next  morning  (1649).  The  palace  was  considerably 
extended  by  Charles  I.,  and,  after  Whitehall  was  burned  down  in 
1691,  it  became  the  chief  residence  of  the  English  kings  from 
William  III.  to  George  IV.  In  1809  a  serious  fire  completely 
destroyed  the  eastern  wing,  so  that  with  the  exception  of  the  in- 
teresting old  brick  gateway  towards  St.  James's  Street,  the  Chapel 
Royal,  and  the  old  Presence  Chamber  there  are  few  remains  of  the 
ancient  palace  of  the  Tudors.  The  state-rooms  are  sumptuously 
fitted  up,  and  contain  a  number  of  portraits  and  other  works  of  art. 
The  initials  HA  aboye  the  chimney-piece  in  the  Presence  Chamber 
are  a  reminiscence  of  Henry  VIII.  and  Anne  Boleyn.  It  is  difficult 
to  obtain  permission  to  inspect  the  interior.  When  the  court  is  not 
in  residence  at  Buckingham  Palace  (comp.  p.  324),  the  gnard  here 
is  changed  eyery  day  at  10.45  a.m.  in  Friary  Court,  the  open  court 
facing  Marlborough  House.  Though  St.  James's  Palace  is  no  longer 
the  residence  of  the  sovereign,  the  British  court  is  still  officially 
known  as  the  'Court  of  St  James's'.  See  ^Memorials  of  St.  James's 
Palace',  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Sheppard. 

On  the  N.  side,  entered  from  Colour  Court,  is  the  Chapel  Royal^ 
in  which  the  King  and  some  of  the  highest  nobility  have  seats. 
Divine  service  is  celebrated  on  Sundays  at  10  a.  m.,  12  noon,  and 
5.30  p.  m.  A  limited  number  of  strangers  are  admitted  to  the  two 
latter  services  by  tickets  obtained  from  the  Lord  Chamberlain ;  for 
the  service  at  10  no  ticket  is  required.  At  the  service  on  Epiphany 
(Jan.  6th)  an  offering  of  gold,  myrrh,  and  frankincense  is  still  made. 
—  The  marriage  of  Queen  Victoria  with  Prince  Albert ,  and  those 
of  some  of  their  daughters,  were  celebrated  in  the  Chapel  Royal. 

Down  to  the  death  of  Prince  Albert  in  1861,  the  Queen's  Levies  and 
Drawing  Btntme  were  always  held  in  St.  James's  Palace.  Since  then,  how- 
ever, the  drawing-rooms  have  taken  place  at  Buckingham  Palace ,  hut 
the  levies  are  still  held  here,  the  usual  hour  being  about  1  p.m.  A  levee 
differs  from  a  drawing-room  in  this  respect,  tbat,  at  the  former,  gentlemen 
only  are  presented  to  the  sovereign,  while  at  the  latter  it  is  almost  en- 
tirely ladies  who  are  introduced.  During  the  reign  of  Queen  Victoria 
the  drawing-rooms  were  held  in  the  afternoon,  and  large  crowds  used  to 
assemble  to  view  the  gorgeous  equipages  with  their  richly  dressed  oc- 
cupants. Now,  however,  these  functions  take  place  in  the  evening,  begin- 
ning about  10  p.m.  A  notice  of  the  drawing-room,  with  the  names  of  the 
ladies  presented,  appears  next  day  in  the  newspapers. 

In  the  life  of  a  young  English  lady  of  the  higher  ranks  her  present- 
ation at  Court  is  an  epoch  of  no  little  importance,  for  after  attending 
her  first  drawing-room  she  is  emancipated  from  the  dulness  of  domesticity 

Babdbkxk's  London.    16th  Edit.  21 


322  26.  ST.  JABiiES'S  PARK.       TU  West  End. 

and  the  thraldom  of  the  schoolroom;  —  she  is,  in  fact,  *oat\  and  now^ 
enters  on  the  round  of  balls,  concert*,  and  other  gaieties,  which  often 
play  so  large  a  part  in  her  lite. 

The  Royal  Almonry,  where  the  royal  alms  are  distributed  at 
Christmas,  Easter,  and  Whitsantide,  is  now  in  Engine  Court, 
St.  James's  Palace,  whither  it  was  removed  from  Craig's  Court, 
Whitehall,  in  1905. 

On  Maundy  Thursday,  i.e.  the  Thursday  before  Easter,  the  distribution 
was  formerly  made  in  Whitehall  Chapel  (p.  213),  but  it  now  takes  place  in 
Westminster  Abbey.  On  that  day  a  gift  of  food,  clothing,  and  money  is 
made  to  as  many  poor  old  men  and  women  as  the  sovereiga  has  lived  years. 
The  ^Maundy  Money',  which  consists  of  silver  penny,  two-penny,  three- 
penny, and  four-penny  pieces,  is  always  fresh  from  the  mint,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  the  three-penny  pieces,  is  not  coined  except  lor  this  pur- 
pose. The  name  ^Maundy'  has  been  derived  from  the  first  words  iman- 
datum  novum ;  John  xiii,  34)  of  the  Latin  anthem  usually  sung  during  the 
ceremony;  whence  also  the  baskets  in  which  the  doles  were  placed  were 
called  *maunds\  James  II.  was  the  last  English  sovereign  that  performed 
this  ceremony  in  person.  This  office  must  not,  of  course,  be  confounded 
with  the  district  in  Westminster  anciently  known  as  the  Almonry,  in  which 
Caxton  set  up  his  printing-press  (comp.  p.  248). 

On  the  W.  side  of  St.  James's  Palace  lies  Clarence  House,  the  re- 
sidence, since  1901,  of  the  Duke  of  Oonnanght,  brother  of  the  King. 
Farther  on  is  Stafford  House  (p.  333).  —  Marlborough  House^  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  palace,  see  p.  262. 

St.  James's  Park  (PI.  R,  21,  22,  25,  26;  IV),  which  lies  to 
the  S.  of  St.  James's  Palace,  was  formerly  a  marshy  meadow, 
belonging  to  St.  James's  Hospital  for  Lepers.  Henry  YUI.,  on  the 
conversion  of  the  hospital  into  a  palace ,  caused  the  marsh  to  be 
drained ,  surrounded  with  a  wall,  and  transformed  into  a  deer-park 
and  riding-path.  Charles  II.  extended  the  park  by  36  acres ,  and 
had  it  laid  out  in  pleasure-grounds  by  Le  Ndtre,  the  celebrated 
French  landscape-gardener.  Its  walks,  etc.,  were  all  constructed 
primly  and  neatly  in  straight  linep,  and  the  strip  of  water  received 
the  appropriate  name  of  ^the  canal'.  The  present  form  of  St.  James's 
Park  was  imparted  to  it  in  1827-29,  during  the  reign  of  George  IV., 
by  Nashj  the  architect  (see  p.  323).  Its  beautiful  clumps  of  trees,  its 
winding  expanse  of  water,  and  the  charming  views  it  affords  of  the 
stately  buildings  around  it,  combine  to  make  it  the  most  attractive 
of  the  London  parks.  In  1857  the  bottom  of  the  lake  was  levelled 
80  as  to  give  it  a  uniform  depth  of  3-4  ft.  The  suspension-bridge, 
across  the  centre  of  it,  forms  the  most  direct  communication  for  ped- 
estrians between  St.  James's  Street  and  Westminster  Abbey.  Duck 
Island,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  lake,  is  preserved  as  a  breeding-place 
for  the  many  interesting  varieties  of  waterfowl ,  both  British  and 
foreign,  that  may  be  observed  on  the  lake. 

The  broad  avenue,  planted  with  rows  of  handsome  trees,  which 
skirts  the  N.  side  of  the  park  from  Buckingham  Palace  (p.  823) 
on  the  W.  to  the  new  Admiralty  Buildings  (p.  212)  on  the  E.,  is 
called  the  Mall^   from  the  ^ame  of  'pail  mail'  once  played  here 


TheWcstEnd.        26.  ST.  JAMES'S  PARK.  323 

(comp.  p.  260).  Towarda  tlie  E.  extremity,  near  Carlton  House 
Terracej  is  the  flight  of  steps  mentioned  at  p.  261,  leading  to  the 
York  Columrh  (p.  261). 

The  Hall  is  the  selected  site  for  the  National  Mbhobial  to  Queen 
Victoria,  which  is  to  be  erected  on  the  circular  space  (180  ft.  in  diameter) 
near  Buckingham  Palace.  The  scheme  includes  a  column,  80  ft.  in  height, 
surmounted  hf  a  bronze  Victory,  which  will  rise  from  a  platform  in  the 
centre  of  a  semicircular  colonnade,  designed  by  Sir  Aston  Wd>b,  B.  A.  At 
the  side  of  the  column  is  to  be  a  colossal  statae  of  the  Queen,  by  TJioma* 
Brock,  B.  A.,  with  allegorical  figares  of  Truth  and  Jastice  and  a  group  re- 
presenting Motherhood.  The  railings  in  front  of  the  Palace  have  been  altered 
so  as  to  secure  a  harmonious  background  for  the  monument,  while  the  Hall 
i  s  being  prolonged  to  the  E.  to  Charing  Cross,  to  permit  a  coup  d^oeil  thence. 

Birdcage  Walk^  on  the  S.  side  of  the  park,  is  so  named  from  the 
ayiary  maintained  heie  as  early  as  the  time  of  the  Stnarts.  To  the 
right,  just  inside  Storey's  Gate  (see  below),  is  a  handsome  Renais- 
sance structure  hy  Basil  Slade,  accommodating  His  Majesty  s  Office 
of  Works  and  the  Institution  of  Mechanical  Engineers  (1899).  At 
the  E.  end  of  Birdcage  Walk  is  Storey's  Oate,  leading  to  (Treat  Oeorge 
Street  and  Westmiruter.  In  Petty  France,  now  York  Street,  to  the 
S.  of  Birdcage  Walk,  Milton  once  had  a  house.  —  A  battalion  of 
the  Royal  Foot  Guards  is  quartered  in  WeUington  Barracks,  huilt 
in  1834,  on  the  S.  side  of  Birdcage  Walk ;  the  interior  of  the  small 
chapel  is  very  tasteful  (open  Tues.,  Thurs.,  &  Frid.,  11-4). 

The  India  and  Foreign  Offices  (p.  215),  the  Treasury  (p.  215), 
the  Horse  Guards  (p.  212),  and  the  Admiralty  (p.  212)  lie  on  the 
E.  side  of  St.  James's  Park.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  new  Admiralty 
buildings  stands  a  leaden  Statue  of  James  II,,  hy  Grinling  Gibhons, 
erected  behind  the  Banqueting  Hall  (p.  214)  in  1686  and  left  un- 
disturbed at  the  Revolution.  It  was  removed  to  Whitehall  in  1897 
and  to  its  present  position  in  1903.  A  little  farther  to  the  £.  is  a 
Marines'  Memorial,  by  Adrian  Jones,  commemorating  the  Royal 
Marines  who  fell  In  China  and  South  Africa  in  1899-1900.  In  an 
open  space  called  the  Horse  Guards*  Parade,  between  the  park  and 
the  Admiralty,  are  placed  a  Turkish  cannon  captured  by  the  English 
at  Alexandria,  and  a  large  mortar,  used  by  Marshal  Soult  at  the 
siege  of  Cadiz  in  1812,  and  abandoned  there  by  the  French.  The 
carriage  of  the  mortar  is  in  the  form  of  a  dragon,  and  was  made  at 
Woolwich.  Annually,  on  Queen  Victoria's  birthday  (May  24th)  or 
the  day  officially  celebrated  as  such,  the  pretty  military  ceremony 
known  as  *  trooping  the  colour*  is  performed  here  by  the  Guards. 
An  invitation  to  one  of  the  above-named  public  offices  should  be 
obtained  if  possible. 

Biickingham  Palace  (PI.  R,  21;  IV),  the  King's  residence, 
rises  at  the  W.  end  of  St.  James's  Park.  The  present  palace  occupies 
the  site  of  Buckirhgham  House,  erected  by  John  Sheffield,  Duke  of 
Buckingham ,  in  1703 ,  which  was  purchased  by  George  III.  in 
1761,  and  occasionally  occupied  by  him.  His  successor,  George IV., 
caused  it  to  be  remodelled  by  Nash  in  1825,  but  it  remained  empty 

21* 


324  26.  BUCKINGHAM  PALACE.      ITieWestEnd. 

antil  its  occupation  in  1837  by  Qneen  Yictoria,  since  which  date  it 
has  continued  to  be  the  London  residence  of  the  sovereign.  The 
eastern  and  principal  facade  towards  St.  James's  Park,  360  ft.  in 
length,  was  added  by  Blore  in  1846 ;  and  the  large  ball-room  and 
other  apartments  were  subsequently  constructed.  The  palace  now 
forms  a  large  quadrangle.  —  When  the  King  or  Queen  is  in  resi- 
dence the  guard  is  changed  every  day  at  10.45  a.m.,  when  the  fine 
bands  of  the  Grenadier,  Coldstream,  Scots,  or  Irish  Guards  play  for 
1/4  hr.  in  the  forecourt.  —  The  palace  is  never  open  to  sightseers. 

A  portico,  borne  by  marble  columns,  leads  out  of  the  large  court 
into  the  rooms  of  state.  First  comes  the  Sculpture  OalUry,  which 
is  adorned  with  busts  and  statues  of  members  of  the  royal  family 
and  eminent  statesmen.  Beyond  it ,  with  a  kind  of  semicircular 
apse  towards  the  garden,  is  the  Library,  where  deputations,  to  whom 
the  King  grants  an  audience,  wait  until  they  are  admitted  to  the 
royal  presence.  The  celling  of  the  magnificent  Marble  Staircase^  to 
the  left  of  the  vestibule,  is  embellished  with  frescoes  by  Townsend, 
representing  Morning,  Noon,  Evening,  and  Night. 

On  the  first  floor  are  the  following  rooms :  OreenDrawirhg  Room, 
50  ft.  long  and  33  ft.  high,  in  the  middle  of  the  E.  side ;  *  Throne 
Room,  66  ft.  in  length,  sumptuously  fitted  up  with  red  striped  satin 
and  gilding,  and  having  a  marble  frieze  running  round  the  vaulted 
and  richly  decorated  ceiling,  with  reliefs  representing  the  Wars  of 
the  Roses,  executed  by  Baily  from  designs  by  Stothard;  Orand 
Saloon;  State  Ball  Room,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  palace,  110 ft.  long 
and  60  ft.  broad ;  lastly  the  Picture  OaUery,  180  ft.  in  length,  con- 
taining a  choice,  though  not  very  extensive,  collection  of  paintings. 

Among  the  most  valuable  works  are  the  following:  —  Rembrandt: 
***Noli  me  tangere'  (1638),  •Ship-builder  and  Ma  wife  (1633 j  cost  6000/.), 
•Adoration  of  the  Magi  (1657) ,  *Bargoma«ter  Pancras  and  his  wife  (1646), 
•Portraits  of  himself,  of  a  lady  (1641),  and  of  an  old  man.  Bubent:  *Pythagoras 
(fruit  by  Snyders),  *The  Falconer,  'Landscape,  *A88umption  (sketch).  Vcm 
Dyck:  •Madonna  and  Child  with  St.  Catharine,  Charles  I.  on  horseback, 
and  others.  Titian,  •Summer-storm  in  the  Venetian  Alps  (ca.  1531).  Fine 
examples  of  From  Hals,  Cuyp^  A.  and  /.  van  Ottade,  Jan  Steen,  Mettu^ 
Hobb^na,  Ruysdael,  Terburg  (including  his  masterpiece,  ''Lady  writing  a 
letter),  Paul  Potter,  A.  van  de  Velde,  Teniers,  Maes,  Don,  and  CUxudt  Lorrain. 
—  In  the  dining-room  are  portraits  of  English  sovereigns  by  Gainsborough 
and  others.  In  an  adjoining  room  is  Lord  Leighton''t  Procession  in  Florence 
with  the  Madonna  of  Cimabue  (painted  in  1855). 

The  Gardens  at  the  back  of  the  Palace  contain  a  pavilion  de- 
corated with  eight  frescoes  from  Milton's  *Comus',  by  Landseer, 
Stanfield,  Maclise,  Eastlake,  Dyce,  Leslie,  Uwins,  and  Ross. 

The  RoYAii  Mbws  (so  called  from  the  'mews'  01  coops  in  which 
the  royal  falcons  were  once  kept),  or  stables  and  coach-houses  (for 
40  equipages),  entered  from  Queen's  Row,  to  the  S.  of  the  palace, 
are  shown  on  application  to  the  Master  of  the  Horse.  The  magni- 
ficent state-carriage,  designed  by  Sir  W.  Chambers  in  1762,  and 
painted  by  Cipriani  (cost  7660i.),  is  kept  here. 


The  West  End.  27.   HYDE  PARK.  325 

To  theN.,  between  Buokingliam  PaUce  and  Piccadilly,  lies  the 
Qbbbn  PiiBX,  wMoli  is  60  acres  in  extent.  Between  this  and  the 
King*8  prlyate  gardens  is  Constitution  HiUj  leading  direct  to  Byde 
Park  Comer  (p.  326),  Three  attempts  on  the  life  of  Queen  Vic- 
toria were  made  in  this  road.  The  Qreen  Park  Arch  ^  which  was 
originally  erected  in  1846  immediately  opposite  Hyde  Park  Corner, 
was  removed  to  its  present  site  at  the  W.  end  of  Constitution  Hill 
in  1883.  The  Equestrian  Statue  of  Wellington,  by  Wyatt,  with 
which  it  was  disfigured,  was  removed  to  Aldershot  in  1883.  A 
quadriga  with  a  figure  of  Peace,  designed  by  Adrian  Hope,  is  to  be 
erected  in  its  place. 

27.    Hyde  Park.    Kensington  Gardens.    Kensington 
Palace. 

The  district  between  Bond  Street  (p.  270)  and  Park  Lane  (Pi.  R, 
18, 19 ;  IV,  /),a  street  about  8/4  M.  in  length,  connecting  the  W.  end 
of  Piccadilly  with  Oxford  Street,  is  known  as  Mayfaib,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  fashionable  in  London.  Near  the  S.  end  of  Park  Lane 
is  a  handsome  Fountain  by  Thomyoroft,  adorned  with  figures  of 
Tragedy,  Comedy,  Poetry,  Shakspeare,  Chaucer,  and  Milton,  and 
surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Fame.  Farther  to  the  N.  are  the  Lady 
Brassey  Museum  (p.  336)  and  Dorchester  House  (p.  336).  In  Upper 
Grosvenor  St.,  leading  to  the  E.  to  Grosvenor  Square,  is  Qrosvtnor 
House  (p.  332).  —  Lord  Beaconsfield  died  at  19  Curzon  Street,  to 
the  E.  of  Park  Lane,  in  April,  1881.  The  well-known  Curzon  Street 
Chapel  was  pulled  down  in  1899,  and  a  mansion  of  the  Duke  of 
Marlborough  now  occupies  its  site.  Edward  Jenner  lived  at  14  Hert- 
ford St.,  a  little  to  the  S. 

Park  Lane  forms  the  eastern  boundary  of  Hyde  Park  (PI.  R,  14, 
etc.),  which  extends  thence  towards  the  W.  as  far  as  Kensington 
Gardens ,  and  covers  an  area  of  390  acres  (with  Kensington  Gar- 
dens, 630  acres).  Before  the  dissolution  of  the  religious  houses  the 
site  of  the  park  belonged  to  the  old  manor  of  Hyde,  one  of  the 
possessions  of  Westminster  Abbey.  The  ground  was  laid  out  as  a 
park  and  enclosed  under  Henry  VIII.  In  the  reign  of  Elizabeth 
stags  and  deer  were  still  hunted  in  it,  while  under  Charles  II.  it 
was  devoted  to  horse-races.  The  latter  monarch  also  laid  out  the 
'Ring',  a  kind  of  corso,  about  350  yds.  in  length,  round  an  enclosed 
space,  which  soon  became  a  most  fashionable  drive.  The  fair 
frequenters  of  the  Ring  often  appeared  in  masks,  and,  under  this 
disguise,  used  so  much  freedom,  that  in  1695  an  order  was  issued 
denying  admission  to  all  whose  features  were  thus  concealed. 

At  a  later  period  the  park  was  neglected,  and  was  frequently 
the  scene  of  duels,  one  of  the  most  famous  being  that  between  Lord 
Mohun  and  the  Duke  of  Hamilton  in  1712,  when  both  the  princi- 
pals lost  their  lives.  Under  Queen  Anne  a  large  portion  of  the  park 


326  27.    HYDE  PARK.  TheWfstEnd, 

was  taken  to  enlarge  Kensington  Gardens;  and,  finally,  Queen 
Caroline,  wife  of  George  II.,  caused  tlie  Serpentine,  a  sheet  of  ar- 
tificial water,  to  1>e  formed.  The  Serpentine  was  originally  fed  by 
the  We8tbourne,  a  small  stream  coming  from  Bayswater,  to  the  N. ; 
but  it  is  now  supplied  from  the  Thames. 

No  carts  or  waggons  are  allowed  to  enter  Hyde  Park,  and  cats 
are  restricted  to  one  roadway  near  Kensington  Gardens.  Motor-cars 
(except  electric  cars)  are  not  admitted  between  4  and  7  p.m.  ;  the 
maximum  speed  permitted  is  10  M.  per  hour. 

Hyde  Park  is  one  of  the  most  frequented  and  lively  scenes  in 
London.  It  is  surrounded  hy  a  handsome  and  lofty  iron  railing 
and  provided  with  nine  carriage-entrances,,  besides  a  great  number 
of  gates  for  pedestrians,  all  of  which  are  shut  at  midnight.  On  theS. 
side  are  Kensington  Gate  and  Queen  8  Oate,  both  in  Kensington 
Gore,  near  Kensington  Palace ;  Prince's  Oate  and  Albert  Gate  in 
Knightsbridge ;  and  Hyde  Park  Comer  at  the  W.  end  of  Piccadilly. 
On  the  £.  side  are  Stanhope  Oate  and  Grosvenor  Gate,  both  in  Park 
Lane.  On  the  N.  side  are  Cumberland  Gate,  at  the  W.  end  of  Ox- 
ford Street,  and  Victoria  Gate,  Bayswater.  The  entrances  most  used 
are  Hyde  Park  Corner  at  the  S.E.,  and  Cumberland  Gate  at  the 
N.E.  angle.  Outside  the  latter  rises  the  Majiblb  Aboh,  a  triumphal 
arch  in  the  style  of  the  Arch  of  Constantine ,  originally  erected  by 
George  lY.  at  the  entrance  of  Buckingham  Palace  at  a  cost  of 
80,000i.  In  1850,  on  the  completion  of  the  E.  facade  (p.  324), 
it  was  removed  from  the  palace,  and  in  the  following  year  it  was  re- 
erected  in  its  present  position.  The  reliefs  on  the  S.  are  by  Baily, 
those  on  th'e  N.  by  Westmacott ;  the  elegant  bronze  gates  well  de- 
serve inspection.  In  1908  the  railings  of  Hyde  Park  were  set  back 
here  so  as  to  surround  the  arch  with  an  open  space.  —  The  handsome 
gateway  at  Hydb  Pabk  Cobneb,  with  three  passages,  was  built  in 
1828  from  designs  by  Burton.  The  reliefs  are  copies  of  the  Elgin 
marbles  (p.  300).  Immediately  to  the  E.  is  Apsley  House  (p.  336), 
the  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington.  The  house  next  it  is  that 
of  Baron  Rothschild.  Opposite  Apsley  House  is  a  bronze  Equestrian 
Statue  of  Wellington,  by  Boehm.  At  the  comers  of  the  red  granite 
pedestal  are  figures  of  a  grenadier,  a  Highlander,  a  Welsh  fusilier, 
and  an  Inniskillen  dragoon,  all  also  by  Boehm. 

To  the  N.  of  Hyde  Park  Corner,  within  the  park,  rises  another 
monument  to  the  'Iron  Duke',  consisting  of  the  colossal  figure  known 
as  the  Statue  of  Achilles,  which,  as  the  inscription  informs  us,  was 
erected  in  1822,  with  money  subscribed  by  English  ladies,  in 
honour  of  'Arthur,  Duke  of  Wellington ,  and  his  brave  companions 
in  arms'.  The  statue ,  by  Westmaeott ,  is  cast  from  the  metal  of 
12  French  cannon,  captured  in  France  and  Spain,  and  at  Waterloo, 
and  is  a  copy  of  one  of  the  Dioscuri  on  the  Monte  Cavallo  at  Rome. 
Opposite,  in  Hamilton  Gardens,  is  a  statue  of  Lord  Byron,  erected 
in  1879.  —  The  finest  portion  of  the  park,  irrespectively  of  the  mag- 


The  West  End,  27.  HYDE  PARK.  327 

niflcent  groups  of  trees  and  the  large  open  expanses  of  grass,  is  that 
near  the  Serpentine,  where,  in  spring  and  sammer,  during  the  ^Season', 
the  fashionable  world  rides,  driyes,  or  walks.  The  favourite  hour  for 
carriages  is  5-7  p.m.,  and  the  fashionable  drive  is  the  broad,  southern 
avenue,  which  leads  from  Hyde  Park  Comer  to  the  W.,  past  the 
Albert  Gate.  Equestrians,  on  the  other  hand,  appear,  chiefly  in 
the  morning,  but  also  in  the  afternoon,  in  Rotten  i2oto,  a  track 
exclusively  reserved  for  riders ,  running  parallel  to  the  drive  on 
the  N. ,  and  extending  along  the  S.  side  of  the  Serpentine  from 
Hyde  Park  Corner  to  Kensington  Gate,  a  distance  of  about  IV2  ^• 
The  scene  in  this  part  of  Hyde  Park,  on  fine  afternoons,  is  most 
Interesting  and  imposing,  though  of  late  years  the  fashionable  throng 
has  not  been  so  great.  In  the  Drive  are  seen  elegant  equipages  and 
high-bred  horses  in  handsome  trappings,  moving  continually  to  and 
fro,  presided  ovez  by  sleek  coachmen  and  powdered  lackeys ,  and 
occupied  by  some  of  the  most  beautiful  and  exquisitely  dressed 
women  in  the  world.  In  the  Row  are  numerous  riders,  who  parade 
their  spirited  and  glossy  steeds  before  the  interested  crowd  sitting  or 
walking  at  the  sides.  It  has  lately  become  'the  thlng^  to  walk  by 
the  Row  on  Sundays,  and  on  a  fine  day  the  'Church  Parade\  be- 
tween morning-service  and  luncheon  (i.e.  about  1-2  p.m.),  is  one  of 
the  best  displays  of  dress  and  fashion  In  London.  Cycling  In  Hyde 
Park  is  no  longer  so  fashionable  an  amusement  as  it  was  a  few  years 
ago.  —  The  drive  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Serpentine  is  called  the 
Ladies^  Mile,  The  Coaching  and  Four-ln-hand  Clubs  meet  here 
about  the  end  of  May  or  beginning  of  June,  as  many  as  thirty  or 
forty  drags  sometimes  assembling.  The  flower-beds  adjoining  Park 
Lane  and  to  the  "W.  of  Hyde  Park  Corner  are  exceedingly  brilliant, 
and  the  show  of  rhododendrons  in  June  is  deservedly  famous. 
There  is  a  Band  Stand  near  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  Serpentine  (band 
on  Sun.  evenings  in  summer). 

A  refreshing  contrast  to  the  fashionable  show  is  afforded  by  a 
scene  of  a  very  unsophisticated  character,  which  takes  place  in  sum- 
mer on  the  Serpentine  before  8  a.m.  and  after  8  p.m.  At  these 
times,  when  a  flag  is  hoisted ,  a  crowd  of  men  and  boys ,  most  of 
them  in  very  homely  attire,  are  to  be  seen  undressing  and  plunging 
into  the  water,  where  their  lusty  shouts  and  hearty  laughter 
testify  to  their  enjoyment.  After  the  lapse  of  about  an  hour  the 
flag  is  lowered,  as  an  indication  that  the  bathing  time  is  over,  and 
in  quarter  of  an  hour  every  trace  of  the  lively  scene  has  disappeared . 
—  Pleasure-boats  may  be  hired  on  the  Serpentine  (ls.-l«.  Qd.  per 
hr.) ;  boat-houses  on  the  N.  side. 

In  winter  the  Serpentine,  when  frozen  over,  is  much  fre- 
quented by  skaters.  To  provide  against  accidents,  the  Royal  Humane 
Society,  mentioned  at  p.  163,  has  a  'receiving-house'  here,  where 
attendants  and  life-saving  apparatus  are  kept  in  readiness  for  any 
emergency.  The  bottom  of  the  Serpentine  was  cleaned  and  levelled 


328  27.  KENSINGTON  GARDENS.     TheWest  End. 

in  1870 ;  the  depth  in  the  centre  yaries  fiom  5 Vs  to  14  ft.  £.  of 
the  bridge  and  from  41/2  to  6  ft  W.  of  the  bridge.  It  was  in  the 
Serpentine  that  Harriet  Westbrook ,  first  wife  of  the  poet  Shelley, 
drowned  herself  in  1816.  At  the  point  where  the  Serpentine  enters 
Kensington  Gardens  it  is  crossed  by  a  flve-arched  bridge,  constructed 
by  Sir  John  Rennie  in  1826.  The  view  from  this  bridge  has  *an 
extraordinary  nobleness'  (Henry  James).  Near  the  S.  end  of  the 
bridge  is  a  small  Restaurant  (tea,  ices,  light  refreshments). 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  park  is  a  powder-magazine.  Reyiews, 
both  of  regular  troops  and  Yolunteers,  sometimes  take  place  in 
Hyde  Park.  The  Park  is  also  a  favourite  rendezvous  of  organized 
crowds,  holding  ^demonstrations'  in  favoui  or  disfavour  of  some 
political  idea  or  measure.  The  Reform  Riot  of  1866,  when  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  of  the  park-railings  was  torn  up  and  250  policemen  were 
seriously  injured,  is  perhaps  the  most  historic  of  such  gatherings. 
The  gravel  expanse  near  the  Marble  Arch  is  also  the  favourite  haunt 
of  Sunday  lecturers  of  all  kinds.  Near  the  Victoria  Gate  (PI.  R,  11) 
is  a  curious  little  Cemetery  for  DogSy  containing  about  eighty  graves. 

To  the  W.  of  Hyde  Park ,  and  separated  from  it  by  a  sunk- 
fence,  lie  Kensington  Gardens  (PI.  R,  10,  etc.),  with  their  pleasant 
walks  and  expanses  of  turf  (carriages  not  admitted),  thronged  on 
fine  days  by  nursemaids  and  children.  They  owe  their  present 
appearance  mainly  to  Queen  Caroline,  wife  of  George  II.,  who 
planted  the  noble  avenues  of  stately  trees,  designed  the  Broad 
Walk  on  the  W.  side,  50  ft.  in  width,  which  leads  from  Bayswater 
to  Kensington  Gore,  and  formed  the  Basin,  or  Round  Pond,  as  it 
is  now  called  in  spite  of  its  octagonal  shape.  Many  of  the  majestic 
old  trees  have,  unfortunately,  had  to  be  cut  down.  Between  the 
Round  Pond  and  the  Serpentine  is  a  bronze  cast  of  an  equestrian 
group  representing  'Physical  Energy',  by  0.  F.  Watts,  erected  by 
the  nation  at  a  cost  of  20002.  Near  the  Serpentine  are  the  flower-gar- 
dens ;  at  the  N.  extremity  is  a  sitting  figure  of  Dr.  Jenner  (d.  1823), 
by  Marshall.  The  Albert  Memorial  (j^.  337)  rises  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  gardens.  The  handsome  wrought-iron  gates  opposite  the  Me- 
morial were  those  of  the  S.  Transept  of  the  Exhibition  Buildings 
of  1851,  which  stood  a  little  to  the  E.,  on  the  ground  between 
Prince's  Gate  and  the  Serpentine,  and  was  afterwards  removed  and 
re-erected  as  the  Crystal  Palace  at  Sydenham  (see  p.  400).  In  the 
Broad  Walk,  with  its  back  to  Kensington  Palace,  is  a  highly  idealized 
Statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  in  white  marble,  by  the  Princess  Louise, 
erected  in  1893. 

*Kensin9ton  Palace  (PI.  R,  6),  on  the  W.  side  of  Kensington 
Gardens,  incorporates  part  of  Nottingham  House,  which  was  pur- 
chased from  the  second  Earl  of  Nottingham  by  King  William  III. 
in  1689.  The  present  unassuming  brick  edifice  was  erected  (or  al- 
tered) partly  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren  for  William  and  Mary  in 


The  West  End.     27.  KENSINGTON  PALACE.  329 


91  (S.  front  and  N.W.  wing),  and  partly  by  William  Kent  for 
George  I.  in  1721  (N.E.  wing).  This  palace  was  the  scene  of  the 
death  of  William  III.  and  Ms  consort ,  Mary ,  of  Queen  Anne  and 
her  bnsband,  Prince  George  of  Denmark,  and  of  George  II.  (1760), 
after  wbicli  it  ceased  to  be  the  sovereign's  residence.  Qneen 
Victoria  was  born  (May  24tb,  1819)  and  brought  up  here,  and  here  she 
received  the  news  of  the  death  of  William  lY.  and  her  own  acces- 
sion. The  Princess  of  Wales  also  was  bom  here.  Various  suites 
of  apartments  are  occupied  by  aristocratic  pensioners  of  the  crown } 
the  S.  W.  wing  has  since  1873  been  occupied  by  the  Princess  Louise 
and  hex  husband  the  Duke  of  Argyll. 

The  State  Rooms,  on  the  second  floor,  after  an  extensive  and 
much  needed  restoration,  were  thrown  open  to  the  public  in  1899. 
They  contain  a  number  of  paintings  (chiefly  portraits),  of  more 
historical  than  artistic  interest,  and  a  few  pieces  of  furniture.  The 
panelling,  cornices,  and  other  embellishments,  especially  in  Wren's 
portion  of  the  palace,  deserve  inspection.  —  Admission,  see  p.  82. 
The  entrance  is  at  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  palace,  and  is  approached 
from  the  Broad  Walk  (p.  328)  by  a  path  passing  In  front  of  the 
Orangery  (p.  330).  Illustrated  Guide,  by  Ernest  Law,  6d. 

From  the  entrance  the  Queen^s  Staircase^  or  Denmark  8taircat%^  with 
good  oak  wainscoting,  ascends  to  Quken  Habt's  Gallbbt,  a  handsome 
oak-panelled  apartment,  88  ft.  in  length.  The  first  chimney-piece,  on  the 
right,  was  designed  by  Wren.  Among  the  portraits  here  are  those  of 
Qneen  Mary  and  William  III.,  by  EneUer.  —  In  the  Qukxm's  Closet  are 
old  paintings  of  London  and  a  fine  Tudor  chimney-piece,  bearing  the 
initial  of  Qneen  Elizabeth,  brought  hither  from  Westminster  Pi^ace.  — 
QussN  Annb*8  Pkivatb  Dining  Room.  Over  the  fireplace :  40.  Installation 
of  Knights  of  the  Garter  by  Qneen  Anne;  43.  Jem  Wpek,  Dnke  of  Marl- 
borough. —  QnxBN  Mabt'b  PBivy  Ghahbbb.  On  the  carved  oak  cornice 
appear  the  united  initials  of  William  and  Mary.  Paintings :  to  the  right, 
50.  Th.  Eudtony  Handel  the  composer;  51.  Knaier,  Peter  the  Great  at  the 
age  of  twenty-six;  56.  Th.  Hudson.  Matthew  Prior;  57.  JTersc&oom,  Robert 
Boyle;  KnelUr,  68.  John  Locke,  59.  Sir  Isaac  Kewton;  over  the  fireplace, 
66.  KnetteTy  William  III.  as  Prince  of  Orange.  —  The  next  room,  Quben 
Cabolinb^s  Dbawino  Room,  is  the  first  of  the  suite  designed  by  Kent. 
The  ceiling -painting.  Minerva  attended  by  History  and  the  Arts,  is  also 
by  Kent.  Paintings  (several  with  most  elaborate  and  handsome  frames) : 
to  the  right,  60.  Drouaii^  Mme.  de  Pompadour ;  61.  Unknovon  Artist,  Mile, 
de  Clermont;  62.  Ooifef,  Louis  XVI.;  63.  Riffoud,  Louis  XV.;  68.  Or^f  (1), 
Queen  of  Prussia;  69  (over  the  fireplace),  Zeemani?),  Frederick,  Prince 
of  Wales  (?);  70.  Ch.  Le  Brun,  Louis  XIV.  on  horseback;  72.  Unknotcn 
Artist ,  Frederick  the  Great.  —  The  Cdpola  Room,  or  Cube  Rook,  87  ft. 
square  and  84i/s  ft.  high,  the  most  gorgeous  room  in  the  palace,  is 
elaborately  decorated  with  white  marble,  painting,  and  gilding.  The 
slightly  domed  ceiling  is  painted  in  imitation  of  a  cassetted  dome ;  at  the 
apex  is  a  star  of  the  Order  of  the  Garter.  In  six  white  marble  niches 
in  the  walls  are  gilded  statues  of  Minerva,  Apollo,  Ceres,  Venus,  Bacchus, 
and  Mercury.  Above  the  elaborate  chimney-piece  is  a  marble  relief,  by 
Rysbraehf  of  a  Roman  marriage.  In  Ihe  centre  of  the  room  is  an  ancient 
musical  elock.  Queen  Victoria  was  baptized  in  this  room  on  June  24th, 
1819.  —  The  Kino's  Dbawino  Room  has  a  ceiling-painting  (by  Kent)  of 
Jupiter  and  Semele,  best  seen  from  the  window  opposite  the  door.  The 
paintings  include  a  large  number  of  royal  portraits  by  Benj.  West.  Over 
the  fireplace,  89.  Beeehey,  George  III.  reviewing  the  10th  Dragoons,  the 
Prince  of  Wales  on  the  right  and  the  Duke  of  York  on  the  left.    The 


330  27.  KENSINGTON  PALACE.     TheWesiE^d, 

pianoforte  in  this  room  was  used  by  Queen  Victoria.  The  *View  from 
the  windows  over  Kensington  Gardens  is  very  beautiful;  not  a  roof  or 
sign  of  the  city  is  to  be  seen.  —  The  Kimo's  Pbivt  Chambeb,  to  the  left 
of  the  drawing-room,  contains  a  collection  of  engravings  and  prints  re- 
presenting royiJ  palaces  and  parks.  —  On  the  other  side  of  the  King's 
Drawing  Room  is  the  Nubssbt,  used  by  Queen  Victoria  when  a  little  girl. 
In  this  and  the  following  rooms  is  a  collection  of  prints  and  engravings, 
illustrative  of  her  life  and  reign.  A  case  in  the  centre  contains  dresses 
worn  by  Queen  Victoria  and  on  the  mantelpiece  are  the  dumb-bells  she 
used  when  a  girl.  The  Princess  of  Wales  was  born  here  (May  26th,  1867)..— 
The  adjoining  Ante -Room  is  hung  with  engraved  portraits  of  Queen 
Victoria's  prime  ministers.  —  Qcxbn  Victobia'b  Bbdboou.  Here  Her 
Majesty  was  sleeping  when  roused  early  in  the  morning  of  June  20th,  1887, 
to  meet  the  Lord  Chamberlain  and  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  who 
brought  news  of  her  accession.  She  passed  through  the  anteroom,  whence 
a  staircase  descends  to  the  Drawing  Room  below  (see  below).  Queen 
Victoria's  doll's  house  and  other  toys  are  shown  here.  —  Beyond  this  room 
opens  the  Kino's  Gallsbt,  on  the  S.  facade  of  the  palace,  a  fine  room 
96  ft.  in  length,  built  by  Wren.  Over  the  chimney-piece  is  a  Wind  Dialy 
with  a  pointer  formerly  connected  with  a  vane  on  the  roof.  The  centre 
of  the  dial  is  occupied  by  a  map  of  K.W.  Europe.  Above  is  a  carved  wooden 
pediment,  with  a  fresco-painting  of  the  Madonna  and  Child.  The  ceiling 
is  painted  with  allegorical  subjects  by  Kent.  The  naval  paintings  and 
portraits  of  admirals  were  brought  hither  from  Hampton  Court.  Two  book- 
cases in  this  gallery  contain  books  from  Queen  Victoria's  private  library, 
some  with  her  autograph.  In  the  first  is  an  account-book  presented  to 
her  by  her  mother  in  lb27,  to  record  the  spendiog  of  her  first  regular  al- 
lowance, which  seems  to  have  been  7/.  per  month.  —  At  the  end  of  the 
Gallery  we  reach  the  Kino's  Gband  Staiboase,  designed  by  Wren,  and 
afterwards  altered  and  decorated  by  Kent.  On  the  walls  are  depicted  various 
persons  of  George  I.'s  court,  standing  behind  a  balustrade.  The  ceiling  is 
painted  with  heads  of  musicians,  etc.  —  The  Pbesbncb  Ghambeb  has  an 
elaborate  carving  ascribed  to  Cfrinlinff  Oibbon*  over  the  chimney-piece. 
Paintings:  258.  BenJ.  West,  Death  of  General  Wolfe  (duplicate  of  the  original 
in  Grosvenor  House)  i  over  the  chimney-piece,  262.  Unknotcn  Artist^  Frederick 
the  Great;  251.  A.  W.  Betis,  Death  of  Nelson;  no  number,  Stolliar,  Death 
of  Sir  R.  Abercombie.  —  We  now  re  enter  Queen  Caroline's  Drawing  Room 
(p.  329),  whence  we  may  retrace  our  steps  to  the  entrance. 

The  apartments  on  the  first  floor  of  Kent's  building,  which  include  the 
Room  in  which  Queen  Victoria  was  born  (May  24th,  1819),  the  Drawing 
Room  in  which  she  received  the  intimation  of  her  accession  to  the  throne 
(see  above),  and  the  Hall  in  which  she  held  her  first  Council,  are  occupied 
by  Princess  Henry  of  Battenberg  and  are  not  accessible  to  visitors. 

On  the  way  out  tovrards  Kensington  Gardens,  we  visit  the  Orangery^ 
a  masterpiece  uf  garden-architecture,  built  by  Wren  for  Queen  Anne  in 
1704.  The  elegant  building,  170  ft.  in  length  and  32  ft.  in  width,  with  a 
gracefully  proportioned  pavilion  at  each  end,  stands  upon  a  stone  plat- 
form. The  interior,  panelled  and  enriched  with  Corinthian  pilasters  with 
rich  capitals,  and  other  carvings,  is  at  present  empty. 


Along  the  N.  side  of  Hyde  Park  and  Kensington  Gardens,  be- 
ginning at  the  Marble  Arch  (PL  R,  16),  runs  Uxbridgb  Road,  the 
W.  continuation  of  Oxford  Street,  leading  under  various  names  to 
Nottlng  Hill  and  Shepherd^s  Bush.  Beneath  passes  the  Central 
London  Railway  (stations,  see  p.  33).  The  rows  of  houses  on  this 
road,  overlooking  the  park,  contain  some  of  the  largest  and  most 
fashionable  residences  In  London  (Tyburnla,  see  p.  xxix). 

Near  the  Marble  Arch  (PI.  R,  15)  is  the  Cemetetif  of  St.  Oeorge^s^  Hanover 
Square  (now  a  public  playground;  open  10-4,  on  Sun.  and  hoUdays  2-4), 
containing  the  grave  of  Laurence  Sterne  (d.  1768;  near  the  middle  of  the 


ThtWestEnd,    17,  KENSAL  GREEN  CEMETERY.  331 

wall  on  the  W.  side).  Sterne'a  body,  however,  is  believed  to  have  been 
exhumed  two  dayg  after  burial  and  sold  to  the  professor  of  anatomy  at 
Cambridge.  Mrs.  Raddiffe,  writer  of  the  ^Mysteries  of  Udolpho".  is  said 
to  be  buried  below  the  chapel.    The  old  mortuary  chapel  has  been  re- 

S laced  since  1888  by  the  tasteful  CJutpel  of  (he  Asceruiony  designed  by  H.  P. 
[orne,  and  elaborately  decorated  in  the  interior  with  paintings  of  Scriptural 
scenes  and  figures  by  Frederic  Shields.  The  paintings  (not  yet  completed) 
are  executed  in  oil  upon  canvas,  which  is  then  fixed  upon  slabs  of  Belgian 
slate  rivetted  to  the  walls,  leaving  an  air-chamber  behind.  The  chapel 
was  founded  by  Mrs.  Russell  Gurney  (d.  1897),  and  is  open  at  present 
2-4  or  5  p.m. 

To  the  IX.  of  Kensington  Gardens  stretches  the  district  of  Bayawater, 
withWestboume  Grove.  Ko.  57,  Queen's  Gardens  (PI.  B,  7)  was  the  residence 
of  Herbert  Spencer  (1820-1903)  for  21  years.  Farther  to  the  W.  we  skirt 
the  N.  limits  of  Campden  Hill  (p.  889)  and  Holland  Park,  and  pass  the 
NoUingHiU  Gate  Station  of  the  Metropolitan  Bailway  (p.  81)  and  the  Coronet 
Theatre  (p.  47).  Ladbroke  Grove  (PI.  E,  2),  diverging  to  the  right,  leads 
straight  to  Kensal  Green  Cemetery  (sec  below),  IV2  M.  to  the  N.  Farther 
on,  beyond  Uxhridge  Road  Station  (p.  31),  is  the  principal  entrance  of  the 
Franco-British  Exhibition  (p.  49).  At  Shepherd's  Bush  Green  we  reach  the 
starting-point  of  several  suburban  tramway-lines  (p.  24).  —  Wood  Lane,  a 
little  farther  on,  leads  to  the  N.  to  another  entrance  to  the  Franco-British 
Exhibition. 

Edgwabe  Road  (PI.  R.  15  etc.),  running  to  the  N.W.  from  the  Marble 
Arch,  follows  the  line  of  the  old  Roman  road  to  St.  Albans,  traversing 
the  districts  of  Maida  Vale,  Eilburn,  and  Cricklewood.  The  winding 
Harrow  Road^  which  diverges  on  the  W.  about  Vs  M.  from  the  Marble  Arch, 
leads  ttirough  the  busy  but  uninteresting  district  of  Faddington.  A  statue 
of  Mrs.  Siddons  (1755-1831),  by  ChavalUaud,  was  erected  in  1897  on  Fad- 
dington Cfreen  (PI.  R,  12).  The  tomb  of  the  famous  actress,  restored  by  a 
descendant  in  1907,  is  near  the  IN.W.  angle  of  the  adjacent  St.  Mary's 
Churchyard^  now  a  public  park.  Near  the  point  where  the  Harrow  Road 
crosses  the  Grand  Junction  Canal  is  Warwick  Crescent  (PI.  R,  8),  Ko.  19 
in  which  was  the  residence  of  Robert  Browning  before  his  marriage. 

We  may  continue  to  follow  the  Harrow  Road,  by  omnibus  or  by  tram- 
way (Kos.  71,  72 :  p.  24)  from  Lock  Bridge  (PI.  R,  4),  for  2  M.  more  in  order 
to  vitit  Kenaal  Green  Oemetery,  the  nearest  railway-stations  to  which  are 
Kensal  Rise  (p.  27)  on  the  Korth  London  Railway,  V«  M.  to  the  N.,  and 
Netting  Hill  and  Westboorne  Park  (p.  31),  on  the  Metropolitan  Railway, 
each  »/4  M.  to  the  8.  Most  of  the  London  cemeteries  are  uninteresting,  owing 
to  the  former  English  custom  of  burying  eminent  men  in  churches,  but 
Kensal  Green  Cemetery,  laid  out  in  1832,  is  an  exception  to  the  rule.  It 
covers  an  area  of  about  70  acres,  and  contains  about  forty  thousand 
graves.  It  is  divided  into  a  consecrated  portion  for  members  of  the  Church 
of  England,  and  an  unconse crated  portion  for  dissenters.  Most  of  the 
tombstones  are  plain  upright  slabs,  but  in  the  upper  part  of  the  cemetery, 
particularly  on  the  principal  path  leading  to  the  chapel,  there  are  several 
monuments  handsomely  executed  in  granite  and  marble,  some  of  which 
possess  considerable  artistic  value.  Four  of  the  most  conspicuous  mon- 
uments are  those  of  Ducrow,  the  circus-rider,  Robins,  the  auctioneer, 
Morrison,  the  pill-maker,  and  St.  John  Long,  the  quack.  Among  the  eminent 
people  interred  here  are :  —  Brunei,  the  engineer  ^  Sydney  Smith,  the  author  5 
Mulready,  the  painter;  Sir  Charles  Eastlake,  the  painter  and  historian 
of  art;  Tom  Hood,  the  poet;  Leigh  Hunt,  the  essayist;  Sir  John  Ross,  the 
arctic  navigator;  Thackeray,  the  novelist;  John  Leech,  the  well-known 
illustrator  of  'Punch' ;  Gibson,  the  sculptor;  Mme.  Tietjens,  the  great  singer ; 
Charles  Kemble  and  Charles  Mathews,  the  actors;  Anthony  TroUope,  the 
novelist;  John  Owen,  the  social  reformer.  Adjoining  the  grave  of  the  last 
is  the  Reformers'  Memorial.  —  Adjacent  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Cemetery 
of  St.  Maiy. 


332 


28.  Priyate  Mansions  aroond  Hyde  Park  and 
St.  James's. 

Orosvenor  House,     Stafford  House.    Bridgewater  House.     Lans- 

downe  House.    Apsley  House.    Dorchester  House.    Lady  Brassey 

Museum,   Devonshire  House. 

The  EngliBb  aristocracy,  many  of  the  members  of  which  are 
enormously  wealthy,  resides  in  the  country  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  year ;  but  it  is  usual  for  the  principal  families  to  have  a 
mansion  in  London,  which  they  occupy  at  any  rate  during  the  Season. 
Most  of  these  mansions  are  in  the  Ticinity  of  Hyde  Park,  and  many 
of  them  are  worth  yisiting,  not  only  on  account  of  the  sumptuous 
.  manner  in  which  they  are  fitted  up,  but  also  for  the  sake  of  the 
treasures  of  art  which  they  contain. 

Permission  to  -visit  these  private  residences,  for  which  appli- 
cation must  be  made  to  the  owners,  is  often  difficult  to  procure, 
and  can  in  some  cases  be  had  only  by  special  Introduction.  Some 
of  them  are  occasionally  thrown  open  for  a  few  Sunday  afternoons 
in  connection  with  the  National  Sunday  League.  During  winter  It 
is  customary  to  pack  away  the  works  of  art  in  order  to  protect  them 
against  the  prejudicial  influence  of  the  atmosphere. 

Otoivenor  Hoiue  (PI.  R,  18 ;  /),  Upper  Grosvenor  Street,  the 
property  of  the  Duke  of  Westminster j  is  no  longer  accessible  to  the 
public.  The  pictures  are  arranged  in  the  private  rooms  on  the 
groundfloor. 

RooH  I  (Dining  Room).  Ko.  1.  Gvido  Reniy  John  the  Baptist;  2.  Mu- 
rillo^  Landscape  with  Jacob  and  Laban;  3.  L.  Oaracei^  Holy  Family; 
4.  Hofforthy  Distressed  poet;  6.  Teniers,  Interior;  6,  13,  16,  15,  25.  Ciaude 
Zorrato,  Landscapes ;  11.  Aii&«fU,  Landscape;  12.  Cuyp,  Sheep  (early  work); 
23.  Van  DycJc^  Portrait  of  liimself ;  8.  Van  Huyiwm,  Fruit  and  flowers;  *21. 
Claude^  Sermon  on  the  Mount;  liembrandt,  14.  Portrait  of  a  man  with  a 
hawk,  *19,  *20.  Portraits  of  l^icolas  Burghem  and  his  wife  (dated  1647) ; 
22.  Adriam  van  de  Velde^  Hut  with  cattle  and  figures  (1658) ;  17.  Wouverman, 
Horse-fair;  24.  Cuyp,  Landscape ;  ^18.  Rembrandt ,  Portrait  of  a  ladv  with 
a  fan;  "^27.  Berehem^  Large  landscape  with  peasants  dancing  (1656);  28. 
Rembrandt^  Portrait  of  himself;  29.  (UaudCy  Landscape;  30.  Rubem^  Conver- 
sion of  St.  Paul  (sketch);  31.  Sustennans.  Portrait. 

EooM  II  (Saloon).  To  the  left:  *«33.  Rembrandt ^  The  Salutation. 
Above,  32.  Ouyp,  Biver-scene;  *34.  O.  Dou^  Mother  nursing  her  child; 
*«35.  Paul  Potter,  Landscape  with  cattle  (1647);  88.  N.  Poussin,  Children 
playing;  37.  Vekuquet^  Portrait  of  himself ;  **39.  Hobbema^  Wooded  land- 
scape, with  figures  by  lAngelbach;  43.  Andrea  del  SartOy  Portrait;  46. 
Paolo  Veronese,  Annunciation;  *46.  Spanish  School^  John  the  Baptist;  49. 
Rubens,  Dismissal  of  Hagar;  62.  Canaletto,  Canal  Grande  in  Venice;  59.  Par- 
migianino.  Study  for  the  altar-piece  in  the  National  Gallery  (Ko.  33;  p.  179) ; 
57.  Dughet  (Gaspar  POussin),  Tivoli;  60.  N.  Poussin,  Holv  Family  and 
angels;  62.  Oiulio  Romano,  St.  Luke  painting  the  Virgin;  64.  DwmenicMno^ 
St.  Agnes;  *65.  MuHllo,  Infant  Christ  asleep;  68.  Oarofalo  (?),  Holy  Family. 

Booh  HI  (Drawing  Room).  No.  80.  Van  Dyel,  Virgin  and  Child  with 
St.  Catharine ;  ^9.  Reynolds,  Portrait  of  Mrs.  Siddons  as  the  Tragic  Muse 
(1784);  77.  Andrea  del  Sarto,  Holy  Family;  72.  Teniers,  Chateau  of  the 
painter  with  a  portrait  of  himself;  Gainsborough,  *70.  The  'Blue  Boy',  a 
full-length  portrait  of  Master  Bnthall,  74.  Coast-scene. 


The  West  End,       28.  STAFFORD  HOUSE.  333 

Room  IV  (OaUerp),  No.  ^83.  Rtmbrandt  (or  A.  Broutoerl),  Landscape  with 
figures}  85.  Tvmery  Conway  Castle  $  88.  Raphaelif)^  Holy  Family  j  •89.  Ye- 
latquexy  Don  Balthazar  Carlos,  Prince  of  Asturias  (sketcb):  90.  Titian^  Land- 
scape; *93.  Rubem^  Portrait  of  himself  and  his  first  wire,  Isabella  Brant, 
as  Pausias  and  Olycera  (the  flowers  by  Jan  Brueghel)  \  91.  2VMan(?),  Wo- 
man taken  in  adultery;  95.  SeJiool  of  BelUni.  Circumcision;  96.  Titian^ 
Tribute  Honey  (replica)*,  99.  Oiovannt  BellM  (?  more  probably  an  early 
imitotor  of  Xorenco  2^to),  Virgin  and  Child,  with  saints;  101.  P.  de  Koninck, 
Landscape. 

RoouY  (Rubens  Room).  To  the  left:  *10Q.  Israelites  gathering  manna, 
*103.  Abraham  and  Melchizedek,  *101.  The  four  Evangelists,  three  of  a 
series  of  nine  pictures  painted  by  Rubens  in  Spain  in  the  year  1629. 

VI.  CoBsrooB :  105.  Rubene,  David  and  Abigail ;  Landscapes  by  Turner^ 
Boninffton,  Jutet  Breton^  Chtman^  Oude^  Calcott^  and  Crome;  sixteen  pictures 
of  Oriental  subjects  by  Qooddtt. 

Vn.  ANTB-DBAWiira-BooH.  No.  126.  Fra  Bartolomeo  (f).  Holy  Family; 
131.  Bomeniehino,  Landscape;  127.  Gainiborough^  The  cottage -door;  130. 
/.  and  A.  Boih^  Landscape. 

The  Vestibule  contains  a  *Terracotta  Bust  by  Alessandro  ViUoria, 

Stafford  House,  oi  Sutherland  House  (PI.  R,  22;  IV),  In  St. 
James's  Park,  between  St.  James's  Palace  and  the  Gieen  Paik,  the 
residence  of  the  Duke  ofSutherland,  Is  perhaps  the  finest  private  man- 
sion In  London,  and  contains  a  good  collection  of  paintings,  which  Is 
shown  to  the  public  on  certain  fixed  days  In  spring  and  summer. 
Application  for  admission  should  be  made  to  the  Duke's  secretary. 

The  magnificent  Entbancb  Hall  is  adorned  with  well-executed  copies 
of  large  works  by  Paolo  Veronese. 

Visitors  then  pass  through  the  Bahqcbtino  Hall  and  enter  the  fine 
PicTUBB  Gallkbt,  ou  the  ceiling  of  which  is  a  painting  by  Quereino.  Our 
enumeration  begins  to  the  right:  73.  Zurbaran,  Madonna  with  the  Holy 
Child  and  John  the  Baptist  (1653) ;  68.  Annibale  Caraeciy  Flight  into  Egypt; 
*62.  Murillo,  Return  of  the  Prodigal  Son ;  61.  Ascribed  to  Raphael^  Christ 
bearing  the  Cross  (a  PlorentinejEpicture  of  little  value) ;  69.  Parmiffidnino^ 
Betrothal  of  St.  Catharine;  68,  64.  Zurbaran^  SS.  Cyril  and  Martin;  67. 
Dt^ardtn,  David  with  the  head  of  Goliath;  *53.  Murillo,  Abraham  enter- 
taining the  three  angels;  61.  After  DUrer^  Death  of  the  Virgin;  48.  Paul 
Dtlaroehe,  Lord  Strafford,  on  his  way  to  the  scaffold,  receiving  the  bless- 
ing of  Archbishop  Laud  (1838).  —  47.  Ascribed  to  Correggio ,  Mules  and 
mule-drivers.  This  work  is  described  as  having  been  painted  by  Correggio 
In  his  youth,  and  is  said  to  have  served  as  a  tavern-sign  on  the  Via  Fla- 
minia  near  Rome.  In  reality  it  is  an  unimportant  work  of  a  much  later 
period. 

Farther  on :  42.  Tintoretto,  Venetian  senator ;  36.  Rubens,  Coronation  of 
Maria  de^  Medici,  design  in  grisaille  upon  wood  for  the  painting  in  the 
Louvre;  33.  Honthorst,  Christ  before  Caiaphas;  30.  Murillo,  Portrait; 
*27.  Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  the  Earl  of  Arundel;  26.  L.  Caraeciy  Holy 
Family;  23.  Parmigianino  {^,  Portrait;  22.  Quereino,  Pope  Gregory  and 
Ignatius  Loyola;  *19.  Moroni,  Portrait;  18.  Bolognese  School,  Mars,  Venus, 
and  Cupid;  16.  Zurbaran,  St.  Andrew;  6.  A.  Cano,  The  Ancient  of  Days. 

A  small  room,  opening  off  the  gallery,  contains  cabinet-pieces  by  Watieau, 
Le  ITain,  and  RottenTutmmer. 

The  pictures  in  the  private  apartments,  which  are  not  exhibited,  in- 
clude exa^iples  of  Velaequez^  MuriUo,  Veronese,  Tintoretto,  Correggio,  Bordone, 
Pordenone,  Rubens,  Van  Dyek,  several  Dutch  Matters,  Reynolds,  Hogarth,  Ldy^ 
Landseer,  and  others. 

Brldgewater  House  (PI.  R,  22 ;  IV),  in  Cleveland  Row,  by  the 
Green  Park,  to  the  S.  of  Piccadilly,  is  the  mansion  of  the  E(if I o/" 


334  28.  BRIDGEWATER  HOUSE.    TheWest  End, 

EUesmerCy  and  possesses  one  of  the  finest  picture-galleries  in  Lon- 
don. The  most  important  works  are  hung  in  the  private  rooms. 
Admission  to  the  large  gallery  is  granted  for  Wednesdays  and  Satur- 
days, on  application  to  the  Private  Secretary  at  Brldgewater  House, 
supported  by  some  person  of  influence. 

On  the  walls  of  the  Staiboasb:  A.  Caraeciy  Copy  of  Gorreggio's  ^11 
Qiorno*  at  Parma ;  *N.  Poiusin^  The  Seven  Sacraments,  a  celebrated  series 
of  paintings ;  Veit,  The  Maries  at  the  Sepulchre  \  Pannini,  Piazza  di  San 
Pietro  at  Rome. 

Gallbbt.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance:  *Ouido  Reni^  Asgnmption  of 
the  Virgin,  a  large  altar-piece,  nobly  conceived  and  carefully  finished. 
To  the  left:  156.  O.  Coques,  Portrait;  225.  Stoop^  Boy  with  grey  horse; 
142.  Brekeieniam ^  Saying  grace;  125.  Bassano,,  Last  Judgment;  *263. 
P.  van  Slingelandy  The  kitchen  (1685);  243.  N.  Berchem^  River-scene;  217. 
Metsuy  Fish-woman;  *126.  A.  van  Ostade,  Man  with  wine-glass  (16T7); 
137.  Arp  de  Voys^  Tou^g  man  in  a  library;  209.  iV.  Berchem^  Landscape; 
*17.  Titian^  Diana  and  her  nymphs  interrupted  at  the  bath  by  the  approach 
of  Actseon  (painted  in  1569);  136.  Rembrandt^  Portrait;  247.  /.  van  Buys- 
dael.  Bank  of  a  river;  «166.  A.  van  Ostade,  Skittle-players  (1676);  258. 
W.  van  de  Velde^  Rough  sea  (1656) ;  212.  N.  Berchem^  Landscape ;  *196. 
Ruysdael^  Bridge;  *65.  Pari*  Bordone,  Portrait  of  a  man  (high  up);  *281. 
J.  Wynants^  Landscape,  with  figures  by  A.  van  de  Veldt  (1669).  —  **19. 
Titian^  'The  Venus  of  the  shell.' 

*Venus  Anadyomene  rising  —  new-bom  but  full-grown  —  from  the 
sea,  and  wringing  her  hair  .  .  .  Titian  never  gave  more  perfect  rounding 
with  so  little  shadow".  —  Crewe  and  Cavalcaselle.  (This  work,  painted 
some  time  after  1520,  has  unfortunately  suffered  from  attempts  at  restoration.) 

135.  Van  der  Heyde^  Drawbridge;  222.  A.  Brotneery  Peasants  at  the 
fireside;  171.  Van  Euysum,  Flowers  (1723-24);  177.  A.  van  Ostade,  Portrait; 
242.  MeUUy  Lady  caressing  her  lap-dog.  —  ^18.  Titian^  Diana  and  Callisto. 

'Titian  was  too  much  of  a  philosopher  and  naturalist  to  wander  into 
haze  or  supernatural  halo  in  a  scene  altogether  of  earth\  •—  C.A  C. 

284.  A.  van  der  Neer^  Moonlight-scene;  233.  NeUeher^  Lady  washing 
her  hands;  154.  A.  von  Ostade^  Backgammon  players;  130.  Tenien^  The 
alchemist;  ^141.  W,  van  de  Velde^  ITaval  piece  (an  early  work). 

On  the  opposite  wall:  *153.  Jan  8teen,  The  school-room,  a  large 
canvas;  190.  Wynantay  Landscape;  182.  Isaac  van  Ostade,  Village-street; 
*168.  Rembrandt ,  Mother  with  sons  praying ;  *280.  Paul  Potter ,  Cows ; 
111.  Netscher,  A  fashionable  lady;  *183.  Isaac  van  Ostade,  Village-street; 
*191.  J.  Steeny  The  fishmonger;  267.  Cuyp^  Ruin:  *90.  Lorenzo  Lotto^  Ma- 
donna with  saints,  an  early  work  (hung  high);  109.  Salomon  Koning^  The 
philosopher's  study;  214.  W.  Mieris,  The  violinist;  244.  0.  Dou^  The 
violinist  (1637);  165.  Wynants^  Landscape;  *129.  A.  Brouwery  Landscape, 
surrounded  with  a  border  of  fruit  and  flowers  by  D.  Seghert;  *194.  Metsu^  . 
The  stirrup-cup  (an  early  work);  257.  Rttysdaely  Landscape;  *201.  Pynaekery 
Alpine  scene  with  waterfall;  *195.  Hondecoeter ^  The  raven  detected, 
illustrating  the  well-known  fable;  257.  J7o&&ema,  Landscape ;  *'174.  RuhenSy 
Free  copy  with  altered  arrangement  of  Raphael's  frescoes  in  the  Villa 
Farnesina  at  Rome,  the  landscapes  by  some  other  painter. 

The  following  masterpieces  on  the  groundfloor  are  not  shown  to  visit- 
ors. In  Ladt  Ellesmebe's  Sitting  Roou:  *"*38.  Raphael^  Madonna  and 
Child,  the  'Bridgewater  Madonna'  (copy  in  the  National  Gallery);  *35. 
Raphaely  Holy  Family  ('La  Vierge  au  palmier*);  **29.  Titiany  Holy  Family 
(an  early  work,  ascribed  to  Palma  Vecchio)'y  •14.  Luini^  Head  of  a  girl  (as- 
signed to  Leonardo  da  Vinci) ;  •*77.  Titian  (attributed  by  some  to  Carian^y 
The  three  periods  of  life  (copies  in  the  Villa  Borghese  and  Palazzo  Doria 
at  Rome).  The  Dbawino  Room  and  the  Nobth  Sitting  Roou  contain  a 
number  of  admirable  works  of  the  Dutch  school,  including  the  fine 
*Girl  at  work,  by  N.  Maes, 


The  West  End,         28.  APSLEY  HOUSE.  335 

Langdowne  Honse  (PI.  R,  22 ;  /),  Berkeley  Square,  the  property 
of  the  Marquis  ofLarudownCf  contains  a  yalnable  plotnre-gallery 
and  a  collection  of  Roman  scnlptnres.  The  ancient  scnlptnres  form 
probably  the  most  extensiye  private  collection  ont  of  Rome.  Most 
of  them  were  discovered  at  Hadrian's  Villa  by  Gavin  Hamilton.  It 
T7as  while  living  here,  as  librarian  to  Lord  Shelbame,  that  Priestley 
discovered  oxygen.    The  house  was  designed  by  Bohert  Adam. 

SouLPTUBBS  (catalogue  provided).  In  the  Dining  Room:  Woman 
asleep,  by  CanovOj  his  last  work;  81.  Bacchus;  36.  Mercury.  —  Ball  Room : 
So-called Antinous  of  the  Belvedere;  63. Marcus  Aurelius  aa  Mars;  61.  Youth- 
ful Hercules ;  89.  Diseobolos  of  Myron,  wrongly  restored  as  Diomede  with 
the  palladium;  87.  Juno  enthroned;  86.  So-called  Jason  untying  his  san- 
dals; 83.  Wounded  Amazon.  Numerous  reliefs,  funereal  columns,  etc. 
Child  soliciting  alms,  by  Bauch. 

PiGTUKBS  (catalogue  provided).  "No.  65.  Tidemand  and  Oude,  Norwegian 
landscape;  75.  OonzaUs  Coques^  Portraits  of  an  architect  and  his  wife; 
76.  Sir  Thomai  Lawrence,  Portrait  of  Lord  Lansdowne ;  *54.  Bepnolda.  Lady 
llchester;  7.  Master  of  Treviso  (assigned  to  Oiorgione),  Concert;  61,  146. 
Both,  Landscapes;  *48.  Van  Dyck,  Henrietta  Maria,  wife  of  Charles  I.; 
88.  Luii^,  St.  Barbara;  *15.  B,  van  der  Heist,  Portrait  of  a  lady  (1648); 
51.  Guerdno,  The  Prodigal  Son;  ♦IS.  Murillo,  The  Conception;  *9.  Cuyp, 
Portrait  of  a  boy;  88.  C.  Dolci,  Madonna  and  Child;  *137.  Sebastian  del 
Piombo,  Portrait  of  Federigo  da  Bozzolo ;  36.  Gainsborough,  William,  first 
Marquis  of  Lansdowne  (1787-1806). 

Apile7Hoiue(Pl.R,  18;  IV),  Hyde  Park  Comer,  the  residence 
of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  was  bnilt  in  1785  for  Earl  Bathurst,  Baron 
Apsley,  Lord  High  Chancellor,  and  in  1820  purchased  by  Govern- 
ment and  presented  to  the  Dnke  of  Wellington,  as  part  of  the 
nation's  reward  for  his  distingnished  services.  A  few  years  later 
the  mansion  was  enlarged,  and  the  external  brick  facing  replaced 
by  stone.  The  site  is  one  of  the  best  in  London,  and  the  Interior  is 
very  expensively  fitted  np.  It  contains  a  picture-gallery,  numerous 
portraits  and  statues,  and  a  great  many  gifts  from  royal  donors. 
Admission  only  through  personal  introduction  to  the  Duke. 

Among  the  finest  works  of  art  in  Apsley  House  are  the  following, 
most  of  which  are  in  the  picture-gallery  (on  the  first  floor).  Velaxquet, 
*Water-8eller  of  Seville,  Two  Boys,  *Quevedo,  poet  and  satirist,  Portrait 
of  Pope  Innocent  X.  (repetition  of  the  painting  in  the  Doria  Gallery  at 
Rome);  ^Correggio,  Christ  in  Oethsemane  (copy  in  the  National  Gallery); 
*Parmi9iamino,  Betrothal  of  St.  Catharine;  MarceUo  VenuMti,  Annunciation; 
fine  examples  of  De  Hoogh,  Breughel,  and  Teniers;  Watteau,  Court-festival; 
Claude,  Palaces  at  sunset;  Bvhens,  Holy  Family;  Spagnoletto,  Allegorical 
picture;  Wouverman,  ^Starting  for  the  chase,  *Betuming  from  the  chase; 
MwHllo,  St.  Catharine ;  several  large  and  well-executed  copies  of  Baphael 
(Bearing  of  the  Cross,  etc.);  •/*.  Potter,  Deer  in  a  wood;  *A.  Cuyp,  Ca- 
valier with  grey  horse;  A.  van  Ostade,  Peasants  gaming;  Jan  Steen,  ^Family 
scene,  *The  smokers,  Peasants  at  a  wedding-feast;  Van  der  Heyde^  Canal 
in  a  town;  N.  Maes,  The  milk-seller,  The  listener;  *  Lucas  van  Leyden, 
Supper;  J.  Victor,  Horses  feeding;  portraits  of  Napoleon,  by  David  and 
others ;  AUan,  Battle  of  Waterloo ;  WUkie,  Chelsea  Pensioners  reading  the 
news  of  Waterloo;  Bvmet,  Greenwich  Pensioners  celebrating  the  anni- 
versary of  Trafalgar. 

On  the  staircase  is  Ccmova^s  colossal  Statue  of  ITapoleon  I.  In  the 
entrance-hall  is  the  only  antique  bust  of  Cicero  that  is  authenticated  by 
an  inscription. 


336  28.  LADY  BRASSEY  MUSEUM.     The  West  End. 

Dorchester  House  (PI.  R,  18;  IV),  a  handsome  edifice  in  Park 
Lane  belonging  to  Major  Holford,  contains  a  good  collection  of 
pictures.  The  honse  is  at  present  occupied  by  the  American  Am- 
bassador (p.  67)  and  is  open  only  to  visitors  prorided  with  a  per- 
sonal introduction  to  him.  Among  the  finest  works  of  art  are  — 

Velazquet^  *Portrait  of  the  Duke  Olivarez,  and,  opposite,  ♦Portrait  of 
Philip  IV.,  both  lifesize,  early  works  in  excellent  condition;  Pixul  Potter j 
Goats  at  pasture  (dated  1647)*,  A.  van  Ostade^  Interior  (1661);  Cornells  de 
VoSj  Portrait  of  a  lady;  ♦iZuy^cfael,  Landscape  with  view  of  Haarlem;  *Lo- 
renzo  Lotto,  Portrait;  *Oaud.  Ferrari,  'HLKtj,  Joseph,  and  a  cardinal; 
Titian  (?),  Portrait;  Andrea  del  Barto,  Holy  Family;  •Owyp,  View  of  Dord- 
recht; Tintoretto,  Portrait;  Luini  (?),  Flora;  Fra  Angelico  (?  or  FeseBtno), 
Six  saints;  *Br<inzino,  Leonora,  consort  of  Gosimo  I.;  Tintoretto  (ascribed 
to  Bassano),  Conversation-piece  of  three  figures;  *Rembrandt,  Portrait 
of  Martin  Looten  (dated  1632);  Paolo  Veronese  (school-piece),  Portrait  of 
the  Queen  of  Cyprus ;  *Titian,  Holy  Family  with  John  the  Baptist ;  Dosso, 
Portrait  of  the  Duke  of  Ferrara;  *Van  Dyel,  Harchesa  Balbi.  —  The 
marble  mantelpiece  in  the  dining-room  was  designed  by  Alfred  Stevene. 

The  Lady  Braiiey  Museum,  at  24  Park  Lane,  contains  a  yaluable 
and  Interesting  ethnological  collection,  antiquities,  coral,  stuffed 
birds,  Jewellery,  and  curiosities  of  yarious  kinds ,  collected  by  the 
late  Lady  Brassey  during  her  voyages  in  the  ^Sunbeam'  yacht  to 
almost  eyery  part  of  the  world.  Admission  is  sometimes  granted 
during  the  autumn  and  winter  months  on  appUcation  to  Lord  Brassey. 

The  museum-building  is  fitted  up  and  decorated  in  the  Indian  style, 
with  carvings,  etc.,  partly  by  Hindoo  artists  and  partly  executed  in  London. 
The  lower  room  was  originally  the  *Durbar  Hair  of  the  Colonial  and 
Indian  Exhibition  in  London.  At  the  entrance  and  on  the  staircase  are 
Oriental  arms  and  armour,  embroideries,  stuffed  birds,  etc.  A  collection 
of  boats  and  models  near  the  top  of  the  staircase  includes  a  child's  toy- 
boat  picked  up  by  the  ^Sunbeam'*  in  mid-ocean.  —  The  glass-cases  in  the 
museum  are  numbered  from  left  to  right.  1.  Personal  souvenirs  of  Lady 
Brassey,  and  reminiscences  of  voyages.  2-4.  Ethnological  collection  from 
Borneo,  Burmah,  and  the  Straits  of  Malacca.  6.  Oriental  Arms.  6.  Spec- 
imens from  Australian  and  other  mines.  7.  Indian  jewellery  and  works 
in  brass  and  silver.  8.  Pottery  and  porcelain,  including  specimens  from 
Fiji,  and  a  sun-baked  tea-set  from  the  Shetland  Islands.  9.  Ethnological 
collection  (excluding  the  South  Seas).  10.  Jewellery  and  ornaments  from 
the  Balkan  Peninsula,  Cyprus,  China,  South  America,  etc.  Above,  Bur- 
mese silver  bowls ;  Indian  pottery.  11-18.  Interesting  ethnological  collec- 
tion, mainly  from  Ifew  Guinea  and  the  South  Sea  Islands.  The  cases 
are  lined  with  native  cloth,  made  from  the  bark  of  the  paper  mulberry 
tree.  The  birds  are  from  Kew  Guinea.  19-22  Corals.  23-26.  Antiquities 
from  Cyprus,  Egypt,  and  South  America;  some  of  great  rarity.  27.  Mis- 
cellaneous collection  of  artistic  objects  from  various  sources.  28-29.  Jap- 
anese objects.  SO.  Savage  ornaments,  mainly  from  the  South  Seas. 
31.  Ornaments  and  jewellery  from  India.  32.  Savage  ornaments,  from 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  South  Sea  Islands,  South  Africa,  etc.  Beside  the 
windows  are  cases  of  birds  of  Paradise,  flying-fish,  etc.  In  the  wall-cases 
are  cloaks  made  of  sea-birds'  skins  and  leathers,  from  the  Aleutian  Islands ; 
*Feather-cloak  from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Doorway  from  a  Buddhist 
monastery  in  Tibet;  above,  specimens  of  pottery  from  the  Solomon 
Islands.  Articles  used  by  the  savage  tribes  of  North  Queensland.  —  The 
library  contains  80  or  90  volumes  of  photographs  taken  in  all  parts  of 
the  world. 

Devonsh^e  House  (PI.  R,  22 ;  IV),  Piccadilly,  between  Berke- 
ley Street  and  Stratton  Street,  the  London  residence  of  the  Duke 


The  West  End,      29.  ALBERT  MEMORIAL.  337 

,of  Devonshire^  contains  fine  portraits  by  JordaenSj  ReynoldSy  Tin- 
torettOf  Dobson^  Lely,  and  Kneller.  In  the  library  is  a  flue  collection 
of  gems. 

The  Earl  of  Korthbrook's  Colleotion,  at  4  Hamilton  Place,  Picca- 
dilly, formed  ont  of  the  famed  Baring  QalUry^  is  especially  notable 
for  its  admirable  examples  of  the  Qnattrocentists,  and  also  contains 
HolheifCs  fine  portrait  of  Hans  Herbster  of  Strassbnrg  (1516),  and 
important  works  by  Rogier  van  der  Weyden,  Cranach ,  Mazzolini, 
Garofalo,  Seb.  del  Piombo,  Murillo,  Zurbaran,  Velazquez,  Rem- 
brandt, Bol,  Don,  Steen,  Rnysdael,  Cnyp,  Rnbens,  etc. 

The  rich  collection  of  early  Italian  picturea  of  Dr.  L,  Mond,  20  Avenue 
Road,  St.  John's  Wood,  N.W.,  may  be  seen  by  appointment  on  written 
application.  It  contains  a  large  altar-piece  by  Raphael,  and  works  by  Fra 
Bartolomeo,  Mantegna,  Botticelli,  Qiovanni  and  Gentile  Bellini,  Garofalo, 
Titian,  Ghirlandaio,  Gima  da  Conegliano,  Dosso  Dossi,  Sodoma,  and  others. 

29.  Albert  Memorial.    Albert  Hall.   Holland  Hoase. 

Along  the  S.  edge  of  Hyde  Park,  beginning  at  Hyde  Park  Corner 
(p.  326),  runs  Knightsbridgb  (PI.  R,  13, 17),  a  wide  and  handsome 
thoroughfare,  passing  Prince's  Club  (p.  75;  left)  and  the  large 
Knightsbridge  Cavalry  Barracks  (right).  Opposite  the  end  of  Sloane 
Street  is  an  Equestrian  Statue  of  Field- Marshal  Lord  StrathrMim,  by 
Onslow  Ford,  erected  in  1895.  The  statue  is  in  bronze,  cast  from  guns 
taken  in  the  Indian  Mutiny.  —  8t,  FauVs^  Knightsbridge,  rivals 
St.  George's  (p.  268)  as  a  favourite  church  for  fashionable  weddings. 

Knightsbridge  is  continued  by  Kensington  Gobb  (PL  R,  9),  in 
which,  to  the  right,  between  Queen's  Gate  and  Prince's  Gate,  in  the  S. 
part  of  Kensington  Gardens,  near  the  site  of  the  Exhibition  of  1851, 
rises  the  *Albert  Memorial  (PI.  R,  9),  a  magnificent  monument  to  Al- 
bert, the  late  Prince  Consort  (d.  1861),  erected  by  the  English  nation 
at  a  cost  of  120,0001.,  half  of  which  was  defrayed  by  voluntary  contri- 
butions. On  a  spacious  platform,  to  which  granite  steps  ascend  on  each 
side,  rises  a  podium  or  stylobate,  adorned  with  reliefs  in  marble,  repre- 
senting artists  of  every  period  (178  figures).  On  the  S.  side  are  Poets 
and  Musicians,  and  on  the  E.  side  Painters,  by  Armstead ;  on  the 
N.  side  Architects,  and  on  the  W.  Sculptors,  by  Fhilip.  Four  pro- 
jecting pedestals  at  the  angles  support  marble  groups,  representing 
Agriculture,  Manufacture,  Commerce,  and  Engineering.  In  the 
centre  of  the  basement  sits  the  colossal  bronze-gilt  figure  of  Prince 
Albert,  wearing  the  robes  of  the  Garter,  15  ft.  high,  "by  Foley ^  under  a 
Gothic  canopy,  borne  by  four  clustered  granite  columns.  The  canopy 
terminates  at  the  top  in  a  Gothic  spire,  rising  in  three  stages, 
and  surmounted  by  a  cross.  The  whole  monument,  designed  by 
Sir  G.  Q,  Scott  (d.  1878),  is  175  ft.  in  height,  and  is  gorgeously 
embellished  with  a  profusion  of  bronze  and  marble  statues,  gilding, 
coloured  stones,  and  mosaics.  At  the  corners  of  the  steps  leading 
up  to  the  basement  are  pedestals  bearing  allegorical  marble  figures 

Bardekkr^s  London.   16th  Edit.  22 


338  29.  ALBERT  HALL,         TheWestEnd. 

of  the  qnaiters  of  the  glohe :  Earope  hy  MaedoweU,  Asia  hy  Foley, 
Africa  by  Theed,  America  hy  BeU.  The  canopy  bears,  in  bine  mosaic 
letters  on  a  gold  gronnd,  the  inscription :  'Qneen  Victoria  and  Her 
People  to  the  memory  of  Albert,  Prince  Consort,  as  a  tribnte  of  their 
gratitude  for  a  life  devoted  to  the  public  good.' 

On  the  opposite  side  of  Kensington  Gore  stands  the  *Bo7al 
Albert  Hall  of  Arts  and  Sciences  (Pi.  R,  9),  a  yast  amphitheatre  in 
the  Italian  Renaissance  style,  used  for  concerts  (p.  60),  scientific 
and  art  assemblies,  great  political  meetings,  and  similar  purposes. 
The  building,  which  was  constructed  in  1867-71  from  designs  by 
Fowke  and  Scott ^  is  oval  in  form  (measuring  270  ft.  by  240  ft., 
and  810  ft.  in  circumference),  and  can  accommodate  8000  people 
comfortably.  The  cost  of  its  erection  amounted  to  200,0001.  The 
exterior  is  tastefully  ornamented  in  coloured  brick  and  terracotta. 
The  terracotta  frieze,  which  runs  round  the  whole  building  above 
the  gallery,  illustrates  the  triumphs  of  science  and  art,  from  designs 
by  Armitage,  Pickersgill^  Marks^  and  Poynter.  The  Arena  is  100  ft, 
long  by  70  broad,  and  has  space  for  1000  persons.  The  Amphi- 
theatre ^  which  adjoins  it,  holds  1360  persons.  Above  it  are  three 
rows  of  boxes  accommodating  1000  persons.  Still  higher  are  the 
Balcony  (1800  seats),  and  lastly  the  OaUery,  adorned  with  scagliola 
columns,  containing  accommodation  for  an  audience  of  2000.  The 
ascent  to  the  gallery  is  facilitated  by  two  lifts,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  building.  The  Organ,  built  by  Willis,  is  one  of  the  largest  in 
the  world ;  it  has  nearly  9000  pipes,  and  its  bellows  are  worked 
by  two  steam-engines.  Below  the  dome  is  suspended  a  huge  vela- 
rium of  calico  (3/4  ton  in  weight)  for  lessening  the  reverberation  and 
moderating  the  light. 

The  Albert  Hall  stands  nearly  on  the  former  site  of  Gore  House, 
which  has  given  its  name  to  Kensington  Oore  Op>387).  Althongh  less  famous 
than  Holland  House,  it  possessed  fully  as  much  political  and  social  influence 
at  the  beginning  of  the  19th  century.  It  was  long  the  residence  of  William 
Wilberforce,  around  whom  gathered  the  leaders  of  the  anti-slavery  and  other 
philanthropic  enterprises.  It  was  afterwards  the  abode  of  the  celebrated 
Lady  Blessington,  who  held  in  it  a  kind  of  literary  court,  which  was  at- 
tended by  the  most  eminent  men  of  letters,  art,  and  science  in  England. 
Louis  Napoleon,  Brougham,  Lyndhurst,  Thackeray,  Dickens,  Hoore,  Landor, 
Rogers,  Campbell,  Bulwer,  Landseer,  Benjamin  Disraeli,  and  Oount  D^Orsay 
were  among  her  frequent  visitors  (see  *The  Most  Gorgeous  Lady  Blessing- 
ton',  by  J.  Fitzgerald  Molloy).  During  the  exhibition  of  1861  Oore  House 
was  used  as  a  restaurant,  where  M .  Soyer  displayed  his  culinary  skill ;  and 
it  was  soon  afterwards  purchased  with  its  grounds  by  the  Oommissioners 
of  the  Exhibition  for  60,0001. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Albert  Hall  is  the  Alexandra  House,  a 
home  for  female  students,  projected  by  Queen  Alexandra  when 
Princess  of  Wales  and  erected  in  1886  at  the  cost  of  the  late  Sir 
Francis  Cook.  To  the  £.  of  the  Albert  Hall  is  Lowther  Lodge,  a 
yery  satisfactory  example  of  Norman  Shawns  modern  antique  style. 

Kensington  Gore  is  continued  to  the  W.  by  Kensington  High 
Street.  At  the  corner  of  Church  Street  is  the  fashionable  church 


The  West  End.       29.  HOLLAND  HOUSE.  339 

of  St.  Mary  AhhoU  (PL  B,  5),  rebuilt  In  1877,  In  the  churchyard  of 
which  ig  the  graye  of  Mrs.  Inchbald  (1753-1821),  the  dramatist 
and  noyelist. 

To  the  V.^  extending  to  dotting  HiU  (p.  881),  lies  the  pleasant  residential 
district  known  as  Gampden  Hill,  containing  many  old  houses  in  large 
gardens.  Hollif  Lodgt,  the  home  of  Lord  Macaulay,  where  he  died  in  ISCS, 
fa  in  Campden  Hill,  a  lane  leading  off  Campden  Hill  Boad.  The  next 
house  is  ArgyU  Lodge,  long  the  London  residence  of  the  late  Duke  of  Argyll 
(d.  1900).  Sir  Isaac  Newton  died  in  1727  at  Campden  Hill,  in  what  was 
afterwards  named  BvlHngham  Hotue  and  recently  formed  part  of  Ken$ington 
College.  —  Thackeray  died  in  1863  at  No.  2  Palace  Oreen,  the  second  house 
to  the  left  in  Kensington  Palace  Gardens  (PI.  B,  6)  as  we  enter  from 
Kensington  High  Street.  Among  his  previous  London  residences  were 
88  8t.  James's  Street,  18  fnow  16)  Toung  Street,  Kensington  (where  ^Vanity 
Fair',  *Pendennis*,  and  ^Esmond*  were  written),  and  36  ()nslow  Square 
(re-numhered). 

Farther  to  the  W.,  on  a  hill  to  the  N.  of  Kensington  Road,  stands 
Holland  Honse  (PI.  R,  1),  huilt  in  the  Tudor  style  by  John  Thorpe, 
for  Sir  Walter  Cope,  in  1607.  The  building  soon  passed  into  the 
hands  of  Henry  Rich,  Earl  of  Holland  (in  Lincolnshire),  son-in-law  of 
Sir  Walter  Cope,  and  afterwards,  on  the  execution  of  Lord  Holland 
for  treason,  came  into  the  possession  of  Fairfax  and  Lambert,  the 
Parliamentary  generals.  In  1665,  howeyer,  it  was  restored  to  Lady 
Holland.  In  1762  it  was  sold  by  Lord  Kensington,  cousin  of  the 
last  representative  of  the  Hollands,  who  had  inherited  the  estates, 
to  Henry  Fox,  afterwards  Baron  Holland,  and  father  of  the  celebrated 
Charles  James  Fox.  Holland  House  now  belongs  to  Lord  Ilchester, 
a  descendant  of  a  brother  of  Henry  Fox.  —  The  house  (no  adm.) 
contains  a  good  collection  of  historical  relies  and  paintings,  includ- 
ing several  portraits  by  O.  F,  WatU,  The  sammer  flower-show  of 
the  Horticultural  Society  (p.  261)  is  held  in  July  in  the  beautiful 
grounds  of  Holland  House. 

Since  the  time  of  Charles  I.  Holland  House  has  frequently  been  as- 
sociated with  eminent  personages.  Fairfax,  Cromwell,  and  Ire  ton  held 
their  deliber  tions  in  its  chambers;  William  Penn,  who  was  in  great 
favour  with  Charles  II.,  was  daily  assailed  here  by  a  host  of  petitioners; 
and  William  III.  and  his  consort  Mary  lived  in  the  house  for  a  short  period. 
Joseph  Addison,  who  had  married  the  widow  of  Edward,  third  Earl  of 
Holland  and  Warwick,  occupied  the  house  from  1716  until  his  death  there 
in  1719.  During  the  first  half  of  the  19th  century  Holland  House  was  the 
rallying  point  of  Whig  political  and  literary  notabilities  of  all  kinda,  such 
as  Moore,  Rogers,  and  Macaulay,  who  enjoyed  here  the  hospitality  of 
the  distinguished  third  Baron  Holland.  Compare  Princess  Lichtenstein's 
'Holland  House". 

No.  2  Holland  Park  Road  is  Leighton  House  (PI.  R,  1),  formerly 
the  residence  of  Lord  Leighton^  P.  R.  A.  (d.  1896).  The  house, 
which  was  presented  to  the  nation  by  the  sisters  of  Lord  Leighton, 
contains  an  exquisite  *Arab  HaU,  approached  by  a  'twilight  passage^ 
and  sumptuously  decorated  with  priceless  Persian  and  Saracenic 
tiles,  Moorish  carvings,  etc.  The  other  rooms  are  hung  with  a  large 
collection  of  drawings,  sketches,  and  studies  by  Lord  Leighton,  and 
photographs  and  other  reproductions  of  his  works.  In  the  large 
studio  is  an  important  oil-painting  by  Leighton  (212.  Clytemn»8tra 

22* 


340  30.  ROYAL  COLLEGE  OF  MUSIC.     TheWestEnd. 

in  Argos  awaiting  the  retain  of  Agamemnon),  and  on  a  screen  at 
the  top  of  the  staircase  is  an  admirable  half-length  figure  of  a  man 
(No.  131).  Admission  daily  (except  Sun.)  11  till  dusk;  free  on 
Sat.,  on  other  days  is.  Concerts  and  exhibitions  frequently  take 
place  here. 

Kensington  Road  now  merges  In  Hammersmith  Road,-  which 
proceeds  to  the  W.  to  Hammersmith  (p.  387),  passing  a  little  to 
the  S.  of  Addison  Road  StaVon  (p.  31)  and  Olympia  (p.  71)  and  a 
little  to  the  N.  of  8L  Paul's  School  (p.  387). 

From  Hammersmith  Broadway  (beyond  Fl.  G,  1),  the  starting-point  of 
several  suburban  tramways  (p.  24),  we  may  return  to  central  London  either 
by  omnibus  or  by  the  Metropolitan  &  District  Railway  (p.  32)  or  the  Great 
Northern,  Piccadilly,  and  Brompton  Tube  (p.  85). 


30.    Imperial  Institate.    Uniyersity  of  London. 
Natural  History  Masenm. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Albert  Hall  (PI.  R,  9)  is  a  statne  of  Prince 
Albert,  overlooking  the  old  site  of  the  gardens  of  the  Royal  Horti- 
cnltural  Society  (p.  251),  which  are  now  occupied  by  yarions  public 
buildings  and  intersected  from  E.  to  W.  by  Prince  Consort  Road  and 
Imperial  Institute  Road. 

In  Prince  Consort  Road  is  the  Boyal  College  of  MusIg  (Pl.R,  9), 
Incorporated  by  royal  charter  in  1883  for  the  advancement  of  the 
science  and  art  of  music  in  the  British  Empire.  The  present  build- 
ing was  opened  in  May,  1894,  by  the  Prince  of  Wales  (now  King 
Edward  VII.),  the  president  of  the  institution.  Sir  Hubert  Parry 
la  the  director  of  the  college,  which  provides  a  thorough  musical 
education  in  the  style  of  the  Continental  Conservatoires.  Upwards 
of  sixty  scholarships  and  exhibitions  are  open  to  the  competition 
of  students.  The  teaching  staff  consists  of  9  professors  and  about 
60  other  teachers ;  and  the  college  is  attended  by  nearly  450  pupils, 
including  many  from  the  Colonies  and  the  United  States. 

The  College  of  Music  contains  the  Donaldson  Museum  of  Musical 
Instbuments  (open  free,  daily,  except  Sat.,  10-5),  comprizing  over  300 
ancient  and  historical  instruments  (16-l8th  cent.)  and  musical  MSS.  Among 
the  most  interesting  exhibits  are  a  guitar  once  in  the  possession  of  David 
Bizzio;  spinets  and  harpsichords  of  the  early  16th  cent.,  one  believed  to 
be  the  earliest  keyboard  stringed  instmment  in  existence ^  lutes;  pair  of 
presentation  mandolins  made  for  the  Venetian  ambassador  to  Madrid 
(1778) ;  guitar  belonging  to  Louis  XV.  when  Dauphin ;  collections  of  bag- 
pipes, vielles  or  hurdy-gurdies,  and  viole  de  gamba  and  viole  d^amor 
(17th  cent.);  zither  originally  in  the  possession  of  Titian;  Italian  gradual 
or  service-book  of  the  15th  cent. ;  MSS.  of  Mozart,  Spohr,  J.  J.  Bousseau,  etc. 
—  The  valuable  library  of  the  college  includes  the  collections  of  the  'King's 
Antient  Concerts',  presented  by  Queen  Victoria,  and  of  the  Sacred  Harmonic 
Society. 

The  entrance  -  hall  of  the  College  contains  statues  of  the  King  and 
Queen  and  a  bust  of  Mr.  Samson  Fox,  to  whose  munificence  the  building 
is  due.  These  are  all  by  the  late  Prince  Victor  of  Hohenlohe.  In  the 
Council  Boom  is  a  bust  of  the  Duke  of  Clarence  (d.  1892),  by  Weber. 


TheWestEnd.    30.  UNIVERSITY  OF  LONDON.  341 

The  ^Imperial  Institute  of  the  Uxiited  Kingdom,  the  Colonies, 
and  India  (PI.  R,  9),  bnilt  in  1887-93  as  the  national  memorial 
of  Qaeen  Victoria's  Jubilee,  is  a  Renaissance  edifice  by  Mr.  T,  E, 
Coleuttj  with  a  frontage  600  ft.  in  length  in  Imperial  Institute  Road, 
surmounted  by  a  large  central  tower  (280  ft.  high ;  fine  peal  of  bells), 
with  smaller  towers  at  the  corners.  In  addition  to  the  main  building 
there  are  a  Great  Hall,  to  the  N.,  100  ft.  long  and  60  ft.  wide,  a 
smaller  hall  to  the  E.,  and  Exhibition  Galleries  covering  two  acres  of 
ground.  In  1899,  for  financial  reasons,  the  buildings  were  transferred 
to  Government,  and  in  1901  the  management  of  the  Institute  was 
vested  in  the  Board  of  Trade.  Director,  Prof.Wyndham  Dunstan.  — 
Visitors  are  admitted  to  the  Exhibition  Qalleries  (entr.  at  the  W.  and 
E.  ends  of  the  facade;  see  p.  82),  which  contain  a  series  of  col- 
lections illustrating  the  products,  manufactures,  flora,  and  fauna  of 
the  British  colonies,  India,  etc. 

The  main  object  of  the  Institute,  which  was  established  by  funds  sub- 
scribed by  the  people  of  the  British  Empire,  is  to  promote  the  utilization 
of  the  commercial  and  industrial  resources  of  the  Empire  by  arranging' 
exhibitions  of  natural  products  and  providing  for  the  collection  and  disse- 
mination of  scientific,  technical,  and  commercial  information  relating 
to  them. 

The  Institute  also  includes  an  Emigration  Department  and  works  in 
connection  with  the  Commercial  Intelligence  branch  of  the  Board  of  Trade. 
On  the  second  floor  are  scientific  and  technical  Research  Laboratories  (estab- 
lished in  1896).  There  are  also  a  large  Reference  Library  and  Reading 
Rooms,  containing  official  and  trade  journals  of  all  kinds.  —  The  Institute 
issues  a  quarterly  Bttlletin  (id.). 

Since  1900  the  E.  main  wing  and  the  central  block  have  been 
occupied  by  the  University  of  London,  which  was  formerly  estab- 
lished in  a  building  in  Burlington  Gardens  (p.  266).  The  University, 
founded  by  royal  charter  in  1836,  received  a  supplemental  charter 
in  1878,  which  admitted  women  to  all  degrees.  Until  1900  it  existed 
as  an  examining  board  only,  granting  degrees  in  arts,  science,  med- 
icine, music,  and  law,  at  first  to  students  in  certain  affiliated  col- 
leges but  after  1863  to  candidates  wherever  educated.  In  1900  it 
was  entirely  re-organized  so  as  to  become  also  a  teaching  university, 
the  instraction  being  given  in  various  previously  existing  educa- 
tional institutions,  which  are  now  Incorporated  or  associated  with 
the  University.  These  are  known  as  'Schools  of  the  University',  and 
their  teachers,  together  with  certain  'recognized'  teachers  in  other 
Institutions,  are  organized  in  eight  faculties :  Theology,  Arts,  Law, 
Music,  Medicine,  Science,  Engineering,  and  Economics  and  Political 
Science.  In  1907  there  were  over  600  recognized  and  appointed 
teachers  and  about  3300  students. 

The  principal  Schools  of  thk  Univbesitt  are  the  following :  University 
College  (p.  272)  and  Sing's  ColUge  (p.  168),  in  several  faculties  •,  in  theology, 
Hackney  College  (p.  290),  Ifew  College  (p.  290),  Regent's  Park  ColUge  (p.  285), 
the  Wesleyan  College  at  Richmond,  and  St.  Johns  Hall,  Highbury ;  in  medicine, 


Hospital  School  of  Mtdicine  for  Women,  the  London  Schcolof  Tropical  Medicine 


342         30.  NATURAL  HISTORY  MUSEUM.     TheWestEnd. 

and  the  Lister  Institute  qf  Preventive  Medicine;  in  arts  and  science,  Hotkmay 
College  (p.  423)  and  Bedford  College  (p.  284)^  in  arts,  Weitjleld  CoUege^  Hamp- 
stead  (for  women) ;  in  science,  the  Imperial  College  of  sdenee  and  Technology 
(see  helow) ;  in  agriculture,  the  S.  E.  Agricultural  CoUege  at  Wye ;  in  engineer- 
ing, the  Central  Technical  College  (see  below);  in  economics,  the  School  of 
Eeonomiee  and  Political  Science  (p.  210);  in  arts,  science,  and  engineering, 
the  Ecut  London  College  (p.  145). 

On  each  Bide  of  the  Imperial  Institute  are  Exhihiiion  Oalleries 
(p.  361),  belonging  to  Sonth  Kensington  Museum.  —  The  Boyal 
School  of  Art  Needlework  (founded  in  1872),  with  collections  of 
ancient  and  modern  furniture,  needlework,  etc.  (for  sale),  occupies 
a  handsome  late-Renaissance  edifice,  opened  in  1903,  at  the  comer 
of  Imperial  Institute  Road  and  Exhibition  Road.  Visitors  are  ad- 
mitted  from  10  to  5  or  6  (Sat.  10-2). 

Adjoining  the  School  of  Needlework  on  the  N.,  in  Exhibition 
Road,  Is  the  Central  Technical  College  of  the  City  and  Guilds  of 
London  Institute  (p.  xxxiii),  and  farther  to  the  S.,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  road,  is  the  old  Royal  College  of  Science  (1872),  a  govern- 
ment institution  for  the  training  of  teachers  and  industrial  students, 
with  which  is  incorporated  the  Royal  School  of  Mine$,  Facing  the 
Imperial  Institute,  in  Imperial  Institute  Road,  are  the  imposing 
new  buildings  for  the  physics  and  chemistry  departments  of  the 
College  of  Science,  designed  by  Sir  Aston  Webb  and  opened  in  1906. 

All  these  institutions  and  baildingfl,  together  with  some  valuable  vacant 
sites  in  the  vicinity,  are  now  included  in  the  organization  of  the  Imperial 
College  of  Science  and  Technology,  which  was  incorporated  by  royal 
charter  in  1907  and  was  established  to  provide  the  moat  advanced  forms 
of  scientific  and  technical  training  and  research.  The  Imperial  College 
has  received  munificent  aid  from  private  donors  and  considerable  annual 
subventions  have  been  conditionally  promised  by  Government  and  the 
London  County  Council. 

Farther  to  the  S.  is  the  present  main  entrance  to  the  South 
Kensington  Museum  (p.  345).  —  Exhibition  Road  debouches  to  the 
S.  in  Cromwell  Road,  a  street  of  spacious  though  monotonously 
designed  residences,  about  1  M.  in  length,  deriving  its  name  from 
the  fact  that  Henry,  son  of  the  Protector,  resided  in  a  house  that 
once  stood  here.  Immediately  to  the  right,  in  a  large  and  hand- 
some building  facing  Cromwell  Road,  is  the  — 

*  Natural  History  Mnseum,  containing  the  natural  history  col- 
lections of  the  British  Museum.  The  building  was  erected  in  the 
Romanesque  style  In  1873-80,  from  a  design  by  Alf.  Waierhouse^ 
and  consists  of  a  central  structure ,  with  wings  flanked  by  towers 
192  ft.  high.  The  extreme  length  of  the  front  is  675  ft.  The 
whole  of  the  external  facades  and  the  Interior  wall-surfaces  is 
covered  with  terracotta  bands  and  dressings,  producing  a  very 
pleasing  effect.  Admission ,  see  p.  82 ;  the  Museum  is  closed  on 
Good  Friday  and  Christmas  Day.  There  is  an  excellent  general  guide 
(3d.),  besides  Illustrated  guides  (4d-6d.)  for  the  different  sections. 

We  first  enter  the  Gseat  Hall,  170  ft.  long,  97  ft.  wide,  and  72  ft.  high, 
at  the  entrance  to  which  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Richard  Owen  (1804-92),  by 
Brock,  while  to  the  right  is  a  marble  statue  of  Thomas  H.  Huxley  (1825-96), 


m 


o 


o 


^ 


TheWeaEnd.    30.  NATUBAL  HISTOBY  MUSEUM.         343 

by  Ofulow  Ford.  The  glaM-eases  in  the  centre  of  the  hall  contain  groups 
illuitrating  albinitin,  melanism,  the  yariation  of  speeiei  under  the  in- 
fluenoe  of  domestieation  (pigeonf,  canaries,  Japanese  cock  with  tail-feathers 
9  ft.  long,  etc.),  the  variation  of  sex  and  season,  the  adaptation  of  colour- 
ing to  surrounding  conditions,  protectiye  resemblances  and  mimicry,  and 
the  crossing  of  what  outwardly  appear  to  be  quite  distinct  species.  Here 
also  are  a  stuffed  Afirican  elephant,  11  ft.  4  in.  in  height,  and  cases  with 
enormously  magnified  reproductions  of  mosquitos  and  tse-tse  flies.  The 
alcoTCS  round  the  hall  are  devoted  to  the  Introductory  or  Elementary 
Morphological  Oollection  (still  incomplete),  ^designed  to  teach  the  most 
important  points  in  the  structure  of  certain  tvpes  of  animal  and  plant  life, 
and  the  terms  used  in  describing  them\  The  bays  to  the  left  (W.)  are 
devoted  to  the  vertebrate  animals,  including  man,  while  those  to  the  right 
(B.)  illustrate  the  insects,  mollusks,  and  plants.  In  Bay  VI  (r.)  are  ex- 
hibited the  most  recent  acquisitions  of  the  museum. 

On  the  ground-floor,  behind  the  great  staircase,  is  a  gallery  containing 
a  collection  otAnimaU  under  Dome$iicaHon,  On  the  K.  side  Is  a  case  with 
hybrids  and  abnormalities.  By  the  windows  Is  an  interesting  collection 
illustrating  Insect  Pe$U  and  the  methods  of  dealing  with  them.  —  Two 
cabinets  on  the  K.  side  of  this  room  contain  Butterflies  and  Moths  (Le- 
pidopUra).  —  In  the  space  beneath  the  staircase  Is  a  section  of  the  Sequoia 
ffigamiea,  or  ^Bie  Tree*  of  California,  measuring  about  16  ft.  in  diameter 
and  showing  1835  rings  of  annual  growth. 

The  *Qeologioal  and  Palaontolofieal  Oollection  occupies  the  ground- 
floor  of  the  £.  wing  (to  the  right  of  the  entrance).  The  S.E.  Gai.lxbt, 
280  ft.  long  and  60  ft.  wide,  contains  fossil  remains  of  animals  of  the  class 
Mammalia.  Pier  Cases  1  and  2,  to  the  right,  contain  remains  of  pre- 
historic man  and  of  animals  associated  with  him ,  chiefly  found  in  caves 
in  Great  Britain  and  on  the  Continent  In  a  wall-case  by  the  window  are 
teeth,  tusks,  and  antlers  of  mastodons,  deers,  etc.  Table  Case  1  contains 
skulls  and  other  remains  of  the  preidstoric  cave-dwellers,  as  well  as 
weapons  of  reindeer-antler,  flint  implements,  etc.  In  Pier  Case  2  is  a  fossi- 
lized human  skeleton,  found  in  the  limestone  rock  on  the  coast  of  Gua- 
deloupe, West  Indies.  Pier  Cases  3-5  contain  the  remains  of  extinct  car- 
nivorous animals,  including  the  skull  of  the  great  sabre-toothed  >iger 
(Case  3)  and  a  fine  collection  of  bones  of  the  great  cave-bears  (Cases  4^  6). 
The  following  cases  on  this  side  are  devoted  to  the  Ungulata  or  hoofed 
animals,  such  as  the  rhinoceros,  palseotherium,  horse,  hippopotamus,  pig, 
and  the  great  family  of  ruminants.  Among  the  most  prominent  objects 
are  the  skull  and  lower  jaw  of  the  Rhinoceros  leptorhinus  from  the 
Thames  Valley  (Case  8),  the  legs  of  the  sivatherium,  a  gigantic  Indian 
antelope  (Case  14),  and  the  heads  and  horns  of  the  extinct  British  wild 
ox  (Case  18).  To  this  class  belong  the  skeletons  of  the  gigantic  Irish  elk 
(Cervnt  or  Megaeerot  hibemieus)  in  the  central  passage  (stands  E,  L,  M). 

Most  of  the  cases  on  the  left  side  of  the  gallery  are  occupied  by 
the  very  complete  collection  of  the  molar  teeth  and  other  remains  of  the 
Proboscidea,  or  elephants,  including  the  nutstodon,  mammoth,  and  twelve 
other  species.  In  Pier  Case  31  is  a  fragment  of  the  woolly  skin  of  the 
Siberian  mammoth.  Closely  allied  to  this  species  was  the  Ilford  mammoth, 
found  in  the  valley  of  the  Thames,  the  skull  and  tusks  of  which  are 
exhibited  in  the  middle  of  the  gallery  (Case  E).  In  Case  K,  near  the  end 
of  the  gallery,  is  the  skeleton  of  S  teller's  sea-cow  (Bhifti$M)j  an  extinct 
species,  found  in  the  peat  .deposits  of  Behring's  Island,  Kamschatka.  On 
Stand  A,  at  the  beginning  of  the  gallery,  is  a  perfect  skeleton  of  the 
mastodon,  found  in  Missouri,  to  one  side  of  which  are  the  skulls  of  a 
dinotherium  (lower  jaw  a  plaster  reproduction),  from  Eppelsheim  in  Hesse- 
Darmstadt,  and  of  a  mastodon  from  Buenos  Ayres. 

At  the  end  of  the  gallery  we  enter  the  Pavilion  that  contains  the 
fossil  Birds,  Marsupialia,  and  Edentata.  Among  the  first  (in  Pier  Cases 
23,  24)  are  remains  of  the  Dinomis,  or  moa,  an  extinct  wingless  bird  of 
Kew  Zealand.  Table  (3ase  13  contains  a  specimen  of  the  Archeeopteryx, 
or  lizard-tailed  bird,  the  oldest  fossil  bird  as  yet  discovered.  Other  cases 
contain  remains  of  the  gigantic  extinct  kangaroo  of  Australia  (six  times 


344  30.  NATURAL  HISTORY  MUSEUM.     TheWefUEnd. 

larger  than  its  living  representatiye),  and  of  tome  of  the  diminutive  i 
mala  of  the  earliest  geologic*!  period.  On  Pedestal  X,  near  the  centre  of  the 
room,  is  the  plaster  skeleton  of  a  Megatherium  from  Buenos  Ayres,  a 
huge  extinct  animal,  the  bony  framework  of  which  is  almost  identical 
with  that  of  the  existing  sloth.  In  the  adjoining  Case  Y  is  a  skeleton 
of  MylodoB  robustns,  a  somewhat  similar  animal  from  Buenos  Ayres.  In 
Case  Z  is  a  cast  of  a  gigantic  extinct  armadillo  (Olpptcd&n  atptr)  from 
Buenos  Ayres,  beside  which  the  skeleton  of  a  living  species  is  placed  for 
comparison.  The  huge  eggs  of  the  ^pyomis  of  Madii^ascar  should  be 
noticed  (in  Case  JJ). 

The  corridor  leading  to  the  K.  from  the  E.  end  of  the  gallery  leads  to  — 

Gallkbt  D,  which  is  devoted  to  the  fossil  Reptiles.  In  the  Wall  Cases 
and  Table  Cases  1  dk  2  are  remains  of  the  Pterodactyles  or  flying  lisards. 
To  the  left(S.)  is  a  large  collection  of  Ichthyosauria.  or  fish-like  reptiles, 
while  the  cases  to  the  right  contain  remains  of  the  Dinosauria,  the  largest 
of  all  land-animals.  In  the  middle  of  the  room  are  a  skeleton  of  aCetiosaurus 
Siedsi  (made  up  from  different  specimens)  and  the  interesting  skeleton  of 
a  Pariasaurus  from  South  Africa  (W.  end  of  the  gallery). 

The  various  galleries  extending  to  the  K.  of  the  reptile  gallery,  each 
about  140  ft.  long,  contain  the  fossil  Fishes,  Corals  and  Protozoa,  Plants, 
and  Invertebrate  Animals. 

The  connecting  corridor  at  the  W.  end  of  the  gallery  contains  the 
Chelonia,  including  a  cast  of  a  huge  Indian  tortoise. 

We  now  return  to  the  entrance  -  hall  and  enter  the  S.W.  Gallsst, 
to  the  left,  in  which  is  the  *Oriiithologioal  OoIIection.  The  glass-cases 
round  the  sides  of  the  gallery  contain  the  general  collection  of  birds  in 
systematic  arrangement,  while  those  in  the  middle  contain  admirably 
mounted  groups  illustrating  the  nesting  habits  of  British  birds  (continued 
in  the  Beptile  Gallery).  The  Pavilion  at  the  end  contains  eagles,  with 
reproductions  of  their  eyries ;  also  a  clever  reproduction  of  a  cliff  at  the 
Bass  Bock,  with  gannets  (solan  geese),  guillemots,  and  kittiwakes. 

This  pavilion  contains  also  a  highly  interesting  *Colketion  of  British 
Zoology^  including  specimens  of  mammals,  birds,  and  fresh-water  fishes,  that 
are,  or  recently  have  been,  found  in  the  British  Isles.  The  cabinets  by  the 
W.  window  contain  an  almost  complete  series  of  the  eggs  of  British  birds. 

The  parallel  gallery  to  the  N.  contains  the  Oolleotion  of  Corals,  while 
the  galleries  at  right  angles  to  this  are  devoted  to  the  Fishes,  Insects, 
Reptiles,  and  Shells.  In  Ihe  reptile  gallery  are  a  cast  of  the  skeleton  of 
a  gigantic  Iguanodon  (Belgium)  and  one  of  a  Diplodocus  (Sift.  9 in.  in 
length)  from  North  America.  A  staircase,  descending  from  the  western- 
most of  the  passages  connecting  the  Bird  and  Coral  Galleries,  leads  to  the 
Cetacean  Collection,  which  includes  the  skeleton  of  a  common  rorqual  or 
fin-whale  ( Balaenoptera  muMculus)^  69  ft.  long,  and  that  of  a  sperm-whale 
(Phyteter  macrocephalui),  60  ft.  long. 

We  now  again  return  to  the  Great  Hall  and  ascend  the  large  flight 
of  steps  at  the  end  of  it  to  the  first  floor.  On  the  first  landing-place  is  a 
statue  of  Charles  Darwin  (d.  1883),  by  Boehm.  On  the  first  floor,  above 
the  Domesticated  Animals  Collection,  is  the  R^reshment  Room  (entr.  to  the 
right  and  left  at  the  head  of  the  staircase).  The  E.  gallery  (right)  of  the  Great 
Hall  contains  the  OotUd  Collection  of  Humming  Birds^  and  the  gnus,  giraffes, 
etc.,  including  the  *Okapi^  a  large  ruminant,  the  only  living  relative  of 
the  giraffe,  discovered  in  1891  by  Sir  H.  H.  Johnston  in  Central  Africa.  The 
W.  gallery  accommodates  part  of  the  Mammalian  collection.  At  the  end 
of  the  former,  above  the  geological  department,  is  the  *Kineralogical 
OoIIection,  which  contains  a  most  extensive  array  of  minerals,  meteorites, 
etc.  A  notice  at  the  door  gives  instruction  as  to  the  best  order  in  which 
to  study  the  specimens  here.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  case  con- 
taining different  varieties  of  marble  and  granite-,  the  contents  of  the 
cases  to  the  left  illustrate  the  characters  of  minerals  and  rocks.  In  Case  1  f 
is  the  ^Colenso  Diamond'  (180  carats),  presented  by  Mr.  Ruskin.  Among 
the  most  remarkable  objects  in  the  other  cases  are  a  unique  crystalline 
mass  of  rubellite  from  Ava  (Case  3Sa),  a  magnificent  crystal  of  light  red 
silver  ore  from  Chili  (Case  8),   and  the  unrivalled  groups  of  topazes  and 


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TheWestEnd,     31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.       345 

agates  (Cases  26  &  16).  In  Case  13h  is  a  piece  of  Jasper,  the  yeining  in 
which  bears  a  singular  resemblance  to  a  well-known  portrait  of  Geoffrey 
Chancer.  Case  42  illustrates  enclosures  in  crystals.  Among  the  larger 
objects  in  the  room  at  the  E.  end  is  the  Melbourne  meteorolite,  the  heaviest 
known  (3Va  tons). 

The  gallery  in  the  W.  wing  of  the  first  floor,  above  the  Bird  Oallery, 
contains  the  Mammalian  Oolleetion.  To  the  left  are  the  larger  carnivore, 
seals,  etc. ;  to  the  right  the  kangaroos,  hippopotami,  camels,  and  deer.  In 
the  middle  of  the  gallery  are  the  elephants  and  rhinoceroses;  in  the 
pavilion  at  the  end,  buffaloes,  cattle,  and  sheep. 

The  ^Botanical  Oolleetion  is  exhibited  on  the  second  floor  of  the 
E.  wing.  The  part  of  this  collection  shown  to  the  public  is  arranged  so 
as  to  illustrate  the  various  groups  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  and  the 
natural  system  of  the  classification  of  plants.  The  different  orders  are 
represented  by  dried  specimens  of  the  plants  themselves ,  coloured  draw- 
ings, fruits,  and  prepared  sections  of  wood.  The  dicotyledonous  plants 
are  shown  in  the  cases  on  the  K.  Oeft)  side  of  the  gallery,  while  in  re- 
turning along  the  8.  side  we  pass  in  turn  the  monocotyledonous  plants, 
the  gymnosperms,  and  the  cryptogams.  The  series  ends  with  Sowerby^s 
models  of  the  larger  British  fungi.  ITear  the  door  is  a  chalk-like  mass  of 
earth  containing  twelve  billion  diatoms.  Larger  specimens  are  placed  in 
the  centre  of  the  gallery,  above  which  hangs  a  bamboo  from  Burma,  81  ft. 
long.  At  the  E.  end  of  the  gallery  are  a  palm  from  Brazil  with  a  swollen 
stem  (Aerocomia  telerocarpa)  and  a  grass-tree  from  Australia  (Kingia  austra- 
Us).  A  series  of  glased  frames  contains  a  collection  uf  British  plants.  — 
Among  the  most  interesting  herbaria  in  the  students'  department  are  those 
of  Sir  Hans  81oane,  founder  of  the  British  Museum  (see  p.  291;  about 
1750),  John  Bay,  Sowerby  (English  plants),  and  Sir  Joseph  Banks  (1820), 
the  last  including  the  collection  of  Ceylon  plants  made  by  Hermann  and 
described  by  Linnseus.  The  botanical  drawings  by  Francis  and  Ferdinand 
Bautr  form  the  finest  collection  of  the  kind  in  the  world,  remarkable  both 
for  scientific  accuracy  and  artistic  beauty. 

The  second  floor  of  the  W.  wing  is  devoted  to  the  Osteologioal 
Oolleetion,  with  every  extensive  collection  of  skulls.  This  room  contains 
also  the  interesting  collection  of  skeletons  and  stuffed  specimens  of  mon- 
keys, amongst  which  the  anthropoid  apes  should  be  noticed.  —  At  the  top 
of  the  staircase  (second  floor)  is  a  sitting  figure  of  Sir  Joseph  Banks  (d. 
1820),  the  botanist,  by  Chantrey. 

31.  South  Kensington  Museum. 

The  Museum  is  about  2  min.  walk  to  the  W.  of  the  Brompton  Road 
Station  of  the  Great  Northern,  Piccadilly,  and  Brompton  Tube  (p.  35),  and 
about  4  min.  walk  to  the  N.E.  of  the  South  Kensington  Stations  of  that  tube  and 
the  Metropolitan  Railway  (pp.35, 32).  —  Omnibuses  plying  along  Brompton  Boad 
pass  about  4  min.  to  the  S.,  and  those  plying  along  Kensington  Gore  pass  the 
N.  end  of  Exhibition  Road,  about  3  min.  to  the  K.  of  the  present  entrance. 

The  ** South  Kensin^n  HiiBeiim  (PI.  R,  9),  now  officially 
styled  the  Victoria  and  Albert  Museum,  is  situated  in  Brompton, 
1  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Hyde  Park  Corner.  It  consists  of  two  parts. 
The  Maik  Building,  at  the  corner  of  Exhibition  Road  and  Crom- 
well Road,  has  its  present  principal  entrance  in  Exhibition  Road, 
to  the  S.  of  the  College  of  Science.  The  so-called  Exhibition 
Gallebibs  (p.  361),  to  the  W.  of  Exhibition  Road,  are  entered  from 
Imperial  Institute  Road.  The  Main  Building  is  open  gratis  on 
Mondays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays  from  10  a.m.  to  10  p.m. ;  on 
Tuesdays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays,  10  a.m.  to  4,  5,  or  6  p.m.  ac- 
cording to  the  season,  charge  6d.   The  Exhibition  Galleries  are  open 


346       31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.     The  West  End. 

at  tlie  B&me  houis  but  always  gratts  (except  the  Science  Library). 
The  whole  museum  (except  the  librarieB)  is  open  free  on  Sunday, 
from  2  p.m.  till  4,  5,  6,  or  7  p.m.  Tickets,  including  admission  to 
the  libraries,  etc.,  Qd.  per  week,  is.  Qd.  per  month,  35.  per  quarter, 
iOs.  per  year.  In  the  middle  of  the  main  building  are  Refreshment 
Rooms  (p.  356 ;  closed  on  Sun.),  to  the  right  and  left  of  which  are 
layatories  for  ladies  and  gentlemen.  —  The  director  of  the  Science 
Museum  is  Mr.  W,  I.  Last;  the  director  of  the  Art  Museum  is  3fr. 
A.  B.  Skinner. 

The  Museum  was  originally  opened  in  1857,  in  a  temporary 
structure,  now  used  as  the  Bethnal  Green  Museum  (p.  145).  The 
erection  of  permanent  buildings  was  begun  immediately  afterwards 
and  various  portions  were  opened  as  they  were  completed,  but  for 
many  years  the  building  was  left  unfinished,  destitute  of  a  fagade, 
and  quite  unworthy  of  its  priceless  contents.  In  1899 ,  however, 
Queen  Victoria  laid  the  foundation  of  additional  buildings,  designed 
by  Sir  Aston  Wehh,  which  double  the  area  of  the  main  building  and 
are  to  be  opened  in  1909  or  1910.  The  new  official  name  of  the 
Museum  was  adopted  in  1899  by  command  of  Her  Majesty.  —  The 
new  buildings  present  a  handsome  facade,  700  ft.  in  length,  towards 
Cromwell  Road,  with  a  lofty  octagonal  tower  rising  above  the  im- 
posing principal  entrance  in  the  centre.  The  extremities  of  the 
facade  are  occupied  by  pavilions,  each  200  ft.  in  length  and  each 
flanked  by  lower  towers  terminating  in  domes.  Between  the  windows 
on  the  upper  floor  are  statues  of  painters,  sculptors,  and  men  of 
science. 

South  Kensington  Museum,  which  is  one  of  the  subdivisions  of  the 
Board  of  Education,  is  largely  indebted  for  its  rapid  progress  to  the  genero- 
sity of  private  individuals  in  lending  the  most  costly  treasures  of  art  for 
public  exhibition  (Loan  Collections);  but  Government  has  also  liberally 
expended  considerable  sums  in  the  acquisition  of  valuable  objects.  The  art- 
collection,  both  in  value  and  extent,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world. 
All  the  articles  in  the  museum  are  provided  with  a  notice  of  their  origin, 
the  names  of  the  artist  and  (if  on  loan)  owner,  and  (when  acquired  by 
purchase)  a  statement  of  their  cost.  The  following  is  necessarily  but  a 
limited  list  of  the  chief  objects  of  interest  permanently  belonging  to  the 
institution.  Even  a  superficial  glance  at  all  the  different  departments  of 
the  museum  occupies  a  whole  day;  but  it  is  far  more  satisfactory,  as  well 
as  less  fatiguing,  to  pay  repeated  visits.  Owing  partly  to  the  piecemeal 
way  in  which  the  buildings  have  been  erected,  partly  to  their  scattered 
disposition,  partly  to  the  fact  that  some  sections  of  them  are  not  oj[)en  to 
the  public,  and  finally  to  the  unmanageable  size  of  the  collections,  it  can 
har<ny  be  claimed  that  the  arrangements  of  the  South  Kensington  Museum 
are  specially  perspicaoas.  As,  moreover,  the  showcases  usually  bear  no 
letters  or  numbers,  it  is  often  difficult  to  indicate  with  precision  the  locale 
of  any  particular  object.  It  is  hoped,  however,  that  the  following  de- 
scription, with  the  aid  of  the  plans,  will  neutralize  this  difficulty  as  far  as 
possible.  The  arrangement  will  be  entirely  altered  when  the  new  build- 
ings are  opened.  Guide-books,  catalogues,  and  photographs  are  sold  at 
stalls  close  to  the  various  entrances. 

The  MusBUM  of  Oknambntal  ob  Apflibd  Abt,  a  collection  of 
modern  and  medisBval  works  of  art  (over  50,000  in  number)  and 
plaster  casts  or  electrotype  reproductions  of  celebrated  ancient  and 


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TheWcstEnd,     31*  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.       847 

modem  works,  partly  belonging  to  the  Museum  and  partly  on 
loan,  is  Installed  in  the  Main  Building,  with  the  exception  of  the 
OBiBNTiOi  CoLLBCTiONir,  which  are  in  the  East  and  Gross  Galleries 
(pp.  363-365).  The  Main  Building  contains  also  a  Picture  Gal- 
LBBT  (mainly  of  British  art)  on  the  npper  floor  (p.  355);  the  Lib- 
B.ABY  of  Alt  (see  below);  and  the  Royal  College  of  Abt,  in 
which  drawing,  painting,  and  modelling  are  taught.  —  The  Soibncr 
Museum,  incorporating  the  old  Patent  Office  Museum,  occupies  the 
South  and  West  Exhibition  Galleries  (pp.  361-365).  The  Soibncb 
Libbaby  is  now  installed  in  the  central  portion  of  the  new  College 
of  Science  buildings  (p.  342). 

A.   Gbound  Floob  op  Main  Building. 

The  Main  Building  comprizes  three  large  Courts  roofed  with 
glass,  surrounded  by  arcades,  two  main  Corridors  to  the  W.,  and 
Oalleries  on  the  upper  floor.  —  Between  the  corridors,  on  the  ground- 
floor,  is  a  spacious  open  quadrangle,  to  which  access  is  usually  ob- 
tained on  Tuesdays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays.  It  contains  a  statue 
of  an  Eagle-Slayer,  by  John  Bell  (1811-95). 

Entering  by  the  present  Pbincipal  Entbanob  in  Exhibition 
Road,  we  first  reach  the  South  Corridor,  containing  the  catalogue- 
stall  and  a  collection  of  French,  German,  and  other  Continental 
Furniture  and  Woodwork. 

At  the  E.  end  of  this  corridor  is  the  staircase  to  the  lonides  Col- 
lection (p.  356)  and  to  the  spacious  Art  Library  (keeper,  Mr.  Gt.  H.  Palmer), 
consisting  of  upwards  of  115,000  vols,  and  a  collection  of  335,000  drawings, 
engravings,  and  photographs  (aim.,  see  p.  345).  The  staircase  walls  are 
hung  with  pictures,  including  a  work  painted  by  MillaU  at  the  age  of 
sixteen. 

From  the  S.E.  comer  of  the  S.  Corridor  we  enter  the  hall  devoted 
to  *  Tapestry  and  Textile  Fabrics,  which  is  divided  into  three  sec- 
tions. Among  its  finest  contents  are  three  pieces  of  Flemish  tap- 
estry, dating  from  1507,  with  scenes  from  the  Visions  of  Petrarch's 
^Trionfi'  (on  the  W.  wall);  one  of  a  set  of  hangings  representing  the 
Seven  Deadly  Sins,  remarkable  for  the  preservation  of  the  colour- 
ing; an  exquisite  example  of  Flemish  tapestry  in  silk  and  gold 
and  silver  thread,  representing  the  Adoration  of  the  Infant  Saviour. 
This  room  also  contains  costumes  and  some  Italian  cassoni  (p.  354) 
and  other  furniture.  —  The  door  on  the  E.  side  of  this  hall  leads 
to  the  — 

Arehitectural  Court.  This  is  divided  into  two  portions  by  an 
arcade  (17  ft.  broad)  running  down  the  centre,  each  half  measuring 
135  ft.  by  60  ft.,  and  is  devoted  to  full-size  plaster  and  other  repro- 
ductions ,  chiefly  of  large  architectural  works ,  along  with  a  few 
original  objects.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  Westbbn  Section  of  the 
court  Is  a  fine  •Rood  Loft,  of  alabaster  and  marble,  from  the  Cath- 
edral of  Bois-le-Duc,  North  Brabant  (1625).  Immediately  in  front  is 
a  cast  of  the  Monument  of  Sir  Francis  Vere  in  Westminster  Abbey 


348       31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.     TheWestEnd. 

(p.  247),  behind  whicli  is  the  competition  sketch  model  for  the 
Wellington  Monument  in  St.  Paul's  by  Alfred  Stevens  (p.  89). 
The  composition  is  pleasing,  though  in  a  decorative  rather  than  in 
a  monumental  style.  In  the  middle  of  the  room  is  a  copy,  in  two 
parts,  of  Trajan's  Column,  the  original  of  which  was  erected  at 
Rome  in  A.  D.  114.  The  reliefs  represent  Trajan's  war  with  the 
Paoians,  and  include  2500  human  figures,  besides  animals,  chariots, 
etc.  Between  the  two  parts  of  this  column  is  a  cast  of  the  main 
W.  portal  of  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Sauveur,  at  Aix  in  Provence.  — 
To  the  left  from  the  above-mentioned  rood-loft :  Copy  of  the  Chapter 
House  Door  in  Rochester  Cathedral  (see  Baedeker's  Oreat  Britain), 
Cast  of  a  portion  of  Rosslyn  Chapel,  near  Edinburgh,  with  the 
column  known  as  the  Trentice's  Pillar'  (1446).  Cast  of  the  angle 
of  the  Cloisters  of  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes  at  Toledo  (15th  cent.), 
an  admirable  example  of  Spanish  Gothic.  Cast  of  a  Fountain  by 
Pieter  de  Witte  (Pietro  Candido;  ca.  1548-1628),  at  the  Old  Palace 
in  Munich.  Cast  of  a  brass  Font  (1446),  with  a  curious  iron  crane 
for  lifting  the  cover,  from  the  church  of  Notre  Dame  at  Hal.  Cast 
of  the  Tabernacle  in  the  church  of  St.  Leonard  at  L^au,  in  Belgium, 
executed  by  Cornells  de  Yriendt  in  1552,  and  one  of  the  finest 
works  of  the  Flemish  Renaissance.  Cast  of  a  Bronze  Font  at  Ll^ge 
(early  12th  cent.).  Spanish  Altar  Painting  of  the  15th  cent.,  re- 
presenting the  history  of  St.  George.  Adjacent  are  reproductions 
of  the  so-called  Danes'  Cross  at  Wolverhampton  (11th  cent.)  and 
of  Celtic  Crosses  at  Monastersboice,  Ireland  (10th  cent.),  Gosforth 
and  Irton  (Cumberland),  and  Ruth  well  (Dumfriesshire ;  7th  cent.  ?). 
—  To  the  right  of  the  rood-loft :  Carved  oak  *Front  of  Sir  Paul 
Pindar's  House,  formerly  in  Bishopsgate  Without  (1600).  Cast  of  the 
Schreyer  Monument,  outside  the  St.  Sebaldus  Church  at  Nuremberg, 
one  of  Adam  Krafft's  masterpieces,  executed  in  1492  (Deposition, 
Entombment,  Resurrection).  Opposite,  Cast  of  the  monument  of 
Duke  Ernest  of  Saxony  at  Magdeburg,  by  P.  Vischer  (1497).  Cast 
of  a  Choir  Stall,  from  the  Abbey  of  St.  Denis.  Then  copies  of  works 
by  Jean  Goujon  (1515-72):  (Eil-de-Boeuf  from  the  Louvre,  Carved 
wooden  door  from  St.  Maclou-,  at  Rouen,  and  six  Nymphs  from  the 
Fontaine  des  Innocents  at  Paris.  Cast  of  a  Pillar  from  Amiens 
Cathedral,  with  figures  of  Christ  and  King  David.  Cast  of  portion 
of  the  portal  of  Bordeaux  Cathedral  (ca.  1300),  with  a  statue  of 
Archbp.  B.  d'Agoust,  afterwards  Pope  Clement  V.  Cast  of  Choir 
Stalls,  in  carved  oak ,  from  the  Cathedral  of  Ulm,  by  Jorg  Syrlin 
(about  1468).  —  By  the  end- wall :  *Cast  of  the  Puerta  della  Gloria 
of  Santiago  de  Compostella,  Spain,  by  Maestro  Mateo,  an  imposing 
work  in  the  Romanesque  style  (end  of  the  12th  cent.).  In  front  is 
a  plaster  cast  of  the  Bronze  Lion  of  Brunswick,  the  original  of 
which  is  said  to  have  been  brought  from  Constantinople  in  1166 
by  Henry  the  Lion.  To  the  S.  of  the  last.  Case  with  figures  of 
the  'New  Model'  army  of  Oliver  Cromwell,  cast  from  the  carved 


The  West  End,     31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.      349 

oak  originals  in  Cromwell  House,  Hlghgate  (p.  373);  also  portions 
of  a  Danish  carriage  (i5th  cent.).  —  This  section  of  the  court  also 
contains  casts  of  works  by  Jean  Consin,  Germain  Pilon,  Barye, 
Adrian  de  Vrieg,  etc. 

The  Cbntbal  Passaob  between  the  two  sections  of  this  court 
contains  electrotype  reproductions  of  gold  and  silver  plate  of  various 
countries,  including  numerous  specimens  from  the  royal  collections 
at  Windsor  and  the^Tower  of  London.  At  the  N.  end  are  casts  of 
Pompeian  bronze  furniture  and  reproductions  of  ornamental  shields, 
helmets,  etc. 

Eabtbbn  Sbction  of  the  Court.  On  the  S.  wall  is  the  cast  of 
a  Chimney-piece  from  the  Palais  de  Justice  at  Bruges ,  by  Lan- 
celot Blondeel,  a  fine  specimen  of  Flemish  work  of  the  16th  cen- 
tury. Above  is  a  cast  of  Thorvaldsen's  frieze  representing  the 
Triumphal  Entry  of  Alexander  the  Great  into  Babylon.  In  frqnt,  to 
the  left  (W.),  is  a  cast  of  the  choir-screen  of  the  church  of  St.  Mi- 
chael, Hildeshelm,  a  Romanesque  work  of  the  end  of  the  11th  cent., 
facing  which  is  a  cast  of  the  Shrine  of  St.  Sebaldus ,  Nuremberg, 
the  masterpiece  of  Peter  Vischer  (1519).  —  On  the  other  side  of 
the  Hildesheim  screen  are  painted  and  gilded  terracotta  spandrels 
(S.  French ;  14th  cent.).  —  On  the  other  side  of  the  court  is  a  metal 
reproduction  of  the  Shrine  of  St.  Simeon  at  Zara,  inDalmatia(1380). 
—  From  the  ceiling  hangs  a  reproduction  of  a  Corona,  or  Chandelier, 
from  the  Cathedral  of  Hildesheim  (11th  cent.).  —  On  the  wall  to 
the  right  (E.)  of  the  Bruges  chimney-piece  are  copies  of  part  of  the 
Coloured  Terracotta  Frieze  in  the  Ceppo  Hospital  atPistoia,  byGiov. 
della  Robbia.  Farther  on,  by  the  same  wall,  cast  of  the  Marsuppini 
Monument  by  Desiderio  da  Settignano  in  Santa  Croce,  Florence  (late 
15th  cent.),  and  the  original  Monument  oi  Marquis  Malaspina  from 
Verona  (1536).  —  Almost  in  front  of  this  monument  is  a  cast  of  the 
Pulpit  by  Benedetto  daMaiano  in  Santa  Croce,  Florence  (15th  cent.). 
• —  Opposite  is  a  copy  of  the  Font  in  the  Baptistery  at  Siena.  —  In 
the  middle  of  the  room  is  a' collection  of  casts  of  Italian  portrait- 
busts,  near  which  are  casts  of  two  celebrated  Pulpits  in  Pisa,  by 
Nicola  (1260)  and  Giovanni  Pisano  (1302-11).  —  Farther  on,  to 
the  right,  cast  of  the  Shrine  of  St.  Peter  Martyr  in  the  church  of  Sant' 
Eustorgio  at  Milan,  by  Balduccio  of  Pisa.  —  To  the  left,  by  the  W. 
wall,  is  a  copy  of  a  Seven-branched  Candlestick  in  Milan  Cathedral 
(13th  cent.).  —  On  the  E.  wall ,  near  the  N.  end  of  the  room ,  is  a 
reproduction  of  Donatello's  Singing  Gallery,  formerly  in  the  Duomo 
of  Florence  and  now  in  the  Museo  Nazionale  of  that  city.  Imme- 
diately below  are  casts  of  other  works  by  Donatello.  —  At  the  N.  end 
is  a  series  of  casts  of  the  masterpieces  of  Michael  Angelo,  backed 
by  a  cast  of  the  great  doorway  of  San  Petronio,  Bologna.  —  We  de- 
scend the  steps  at  the  end  of  the  Central  Passage  into  the  — 

South  Court,  which  also  is  divided  into  an  eastern  and  a  western 
half  by  an  arcade  (above  it,  the  Prince  Consort  Gallery,  p.  360).  — 


350       31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.     TheWest  End. 

On  the  npper  part  of  the  walls  of  these  two  departments,  in  sunken 
panels,  are  portraits  (some  in  mosaic)  of  35  famous  artists ,  each 
inscribed  with  the  name. 

In  the  northern  lunette  of  the  E.  section  of  the  court  is  a  fine 
♦Fresco  by  Lord  Leighton ,  representing  the  *Arts  of  "War*  or  the 
application  of  human  skill  to  martial  purposes  (best  seen  from  the 
gallery  upstairs).  The  corresponding  ♦Fresco  in  the  S.  lunette,  by 
the  same  artist,  illustrates  the  *Arts  of  Peace\ 

The  Court  contains  an  extremely  yaluable  ♦♦Collection  of  small 
objects  of  art  in  metal,  ivory,  amber,  agate,  jade,  and  porcelain, 
many  of  which  are  lent  to  the  Museum  by  private  owners.  The  W. 
half  of  the  court  is  devoted  to  European  objects,  while  the  E.  half 
contains  works  of  art  from  China  and  Japan  (but  comp.  p.  364). 

The  Wbstbbn  Sbction  contains  Ivory  Carvings,  Gold  and  Silver 
"Work,  and  Loan  Collections.  In  nine  glass-cases  (A-I)  at  the  S. 
end  is  a  very  representative  collection  of  ivory  carvings,  affording 
a  complete  and  highly  instructive  survey  of  the  development  of  this 
mediaeval  art.  In  Case  A  are  some  works  of  world-wide  celebrity, 
such  as  the  leaf  of  the  diptych  bearing  the  figure  of  a  ♦Priestess 
(4th  cent. ;  probably  the  finest  early  ivory  carving  extant),  the  leaf 
of  a  Byzantine  diptych  formerly  in  the  Cathedral  of  Lidge,  the 
Diptych  of  Ruflnus  Gennadius  Probus  Orestes,  Consul  of  the  East, 
A.D.  630.  and  the  ♦Veroli  Casket,  of  the  11th  cent.(?).  Case  B 
contains  Carlovingian  and  North  European  carvings  in  ivory  and 
bone  (9-12th  cent.),  including  142.  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  on 
whale's  bone  (English;  ca.  1000  A.D.).  In  Case  F  are  beautiful 
French  examples  of  the  13-14th  centuries  No.  146,  in  Case  E, 
a  casket  with  scenes  from  mediaeval  romances  should  be  noticed 
(14th  cent.).  —  The  next  cases  towards  the  N.  contain  a  valuable 
collection  of  English  silversmiths'  work  (16-19thcent.),  notably  a 
silver-gilt  ♦Salt  Cellar  with  hall-mark  for  1586-87  and  a  ♦Cup  and 
Cover  with  hall-mark  for  1611,  both  in  the  third  case  to  the  N.  of 
Case  A  of  the  ivories.  Farther  on  are  numerous  cases  with  silver- 
smiths' work  from  other  countries;  mediaeval  and  Renaissance 
jewellery;  jewellery  from  different  countries;  church  plate;  clocks 
and  watches ;  crystal ;  croziers ;  reliquaries ;  altar-crosses,  etc.  Among 
the  single  objects  of  greatest  importance  are  a  ♦Missal  Case  of  en- 
amelled gold,  said  to  have  belonged  to  Queen  Henrietta  Maria  (Ital. ; 
ca.  1580) ;  ♦Cup  in  repouss^  work,  formerly  attributed  to  Jamnitzer, 
but  probably  by  Martin  Rehlein ;  a  ♦Mirror  in  a  steel  case  damascened 
with  silver  and  gold,  made  for  the  royal  family  of  Savoy ;  an  Astro- 
nomical Globe  made  at  Augsburg  for  the  Emp.  Rudolf  II,  in  1584; 
a  ♦Byzantine  crystal  ewer  of  the  9th  or  10th  cent. ;  the  ^Gloucester 
Candlestick'  (early  12th  cent.);  and  a  chess-table  in  damascened  work 
(Milan).  At  the  N.  end  are  a  collection  of  elaborately  ornamented 
arms  and  armour,  and  several  cases  of  pewter -work,  including 
specimens  by  Francois  Briot  (16th  cent.). 


TJuiWestEnd,    31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.      351 

In  the  Wbst  Aboadb  of  this  court  are  four  rooms,  each  fitted 
-op  with  old  oak  panelling,  brought  from  a  room  in  Clifford's  Inn 
(1688),  from  an  old  house  near  Waltham  Abbey  (16th  cent.),  from 
Slzergh  Castle  in  Westmorland  (16th  cent.),  and  from  ^Bromley 
Palace'  (1606;  destroyed  1894).  The  rooms  contain  English  furni- 
ture of  the  16-18th  centuries.  On  the  exterior  of  the  end-wall  of 
the  latter  is  an  interesting  collection  of  Fans. 

The  Central  Passaob  contains  an  admirable  collection  of  finger- 
rings,  arranged  according  to  countries  and  destined  uses  (wedding, 
mourning,  motto,  charm,  iconographic,  etc.);  cameos,  gems,  pre- 
cious stones ;  snuff-boxes,  bracelets,  earrings,  necklaces  of  yarious 
nations.  In  one  case  is  a  large  and  varied  collection  of  precious 
stones  bequeathed  by  the  Rev,  Chauney  Hare  Townshend,  This 
passage  also  contains  a  collection  of  arms  and  armour  lent  by  Mr, 
D.  M,  Currie;  a  collection  of  small  works  of  art  of  various  Jdnds  lent 
by  Mr,  J.  H.  Fitthenry;  and  loan  collections  of  Sheffield  plate. 

The  East  Sbction  of  the  South  Court  is  at  present  mainly  oc- 
cupied by  the  fine  collection  of  Chinese  and  Japanese  porcelain, 
majolica,  and  Damascus,  Bhodian,  and  Persian  ware,  lent  by 
Jfr.  George  Salting,  Towards  the  N.  end  are  cases  containing  leather- 
work,  ivories,  limoges  enamels,  bronzes,  etc.,  lent  by  the  same  col- 
lector; also  three  table-cases  containing  illuminated  books,  portraits 
in  wax,  and  carved  boxwood  medallions,  and  a  fourth  with  knives, 
forks,  and  a  fine  Italian  sword.  Two  cases  near  the  E.  arcade  ex- 
hibit Chinese  snuff-boxes  in  stone  and  glass. 

East  Abcadb.  Textile  fabrics  and  embroideries.  At  the  S.  end 
Is  a  ♦Parisian  Boudoir  of  the  time  of  Louis  XVI.,  originally  belong- 
ing to  the  Marquise  de  Serilly  (p.  282),  Maid  of  Honour  to  Marie 
Antoinette  (bought  for  2100i.).  The  paintings  are  by  Lagren^e 
and  Rousseau  de  la  Bottidre,  the  chimney-piece  by  Clodion,  the  metal 
work  by  Gouthifere. 

In  the  South  Akcadb  is  the  Museum  Collection  of  Lace. 

Leaving  the  S.  Court,  we  next  enter  the  North  Court,  devoted  to 
Italian  art,  comprising  numerous  original  sculptures  of  the  Italian 
Renaissance.  —  Over  the  S.  doorway  is  placed  a  marble  *Cantoria 
or  singing  gallery  from  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  Novella  at  Flor- 
ence, by  Baccio  d'Agnolo  (about  1500). 

East  Sbction.  The  ensuing  notice  of  the  most  noteworthy  ob- 
jects follows  the  arrangement  of  the  sculptures  in  irregular  rows 
running  E.  and  W. ;  then  passes  to  the  bronzes  on  the  E.  side  of 
this  section.  —  On  the  S.  wall,  Mosaic  of  the  nativity  of  the  Virgin, 
from  the  Cathedral  of  Orvieto  (14th  cent. ;  Orcagna?);  4887.  Lavabo 
In  Istrian  stone  (Venetian ;  ca.  1500).  Opposite,  5798,  8500.  SS. 
Michael  and  Gabriel,  of  the  School  of  Oiovanni  Pisano,  —  7562. 
Relief  of  the  Madonna  and  Child,  attributed  to  Mino  da  Fiesole,  — 
6735,  Statue  of  Jason,  by  a  pupil  of  Michael  Angelo.  —  ♦7577. 
Christ  in  the  sepulchre  (bought  for  lOOOZ.),  7629.  Delivering  the 


352      31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.     TheWestEnd, 

Keys  to  St.  Peter,  tw^o  bas-reliefs  by  DonaUUo.  —  75.  Marble  sarco- 
pbagas  bearing  tbe  carved  figure  of  a  female  saint,  from  Padua 
(perbaps  St.  Giustina),  by  a  pupil  of  Donatello.  —  6737.  Ma- 
donna and  Child  with  angels,  attributed  to  Mino  da  FUsole  (or 
MoMter  of  the  Marble  Madonna»i),  — 7624.  Madonna  with  the  Obild 
and  angels,  of  tbe  School  of  Donatello  (a  frequently  repeated  com- 
position).  —  7569.  Marble  tabernacle,  by  Matteo  Civitale  (signed). 
—  24.  Ancient  Roman  column. — *7560.  Statue  of  Cupid,  by  AficZitwZ 
Angelo  (a  youtbf ul  work ;  1497).  —  25.  Lifesize  figure  of  theVirgin, 
with  worshippers,  formerly  the  tympanum  of  a  doorway  at  Santa 
Maria  della  Miser! cordia,  Venice,  attributed  to  Bavtolomeo  Buon 
(15th  cent.).  —  *5896.  Large  Chimney-piece  ascribed  to  Desiderio 
da  Settignano.  —  *5899.  Marble  panel,  with  the  portrait  of  a  man, 
by  Matteo  Civitale.  —  In  a  glass-case:  ^Fragments  from  the  Tomb 
of  Gaston  de  Foix,  by  Agostino  Busti  (dated  1623).  —  934.  Two 
adoring  angels,  from  Montepulciano,  attributed  to  Michelonzo;  452. 
Marble  relief-portrait  of  Duke  Ercole  I.  of  Ferrara  (d.  1505).  — 
6473.  Tabernacle  from  the  church  of  San  Giacomo  at  Fiesole,  by 
Andrea  Ferrucd  (ca.  1490).  —  418.  Marble  taberuaole  (1498), 
ascribed  to  Matteo  Civitale,  —  Among  the  admirable  busts  of  the 
early  Renaissance  in  this  part  of  the  court  are :  *7671.  Giov.  di  San 
Miniato,  by  Antonio  Rossellino^  signed  and  dated  1456,  with 
strongly  marked  characteristics ;  974.  Portrait  of  a  man,  a  vigorous 
work  of  the  school  of  Rossellino ;  *189.  Marble  bust  of  a  Roman 
emperor  crowned  with  laurel,  a  master-piece  of  the  Lombard  school 
(15th  cent.),  of  extraordinarily  careful  execution.  —  On  the  clock- 
pillar  are  several  medallions  of  Delia  Robbia  ware  with  busts,  from 
the  Palazzo  Guadagni  at  Florence.  —  Against  the  E.  wall  is  a  cast 
of  a  Singing  Gallery  by  Luca  della  Robbia  (1432-38),  originally  in 
the  Cathedral  of  Florence. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  court  are  the  sanctuary  and  the  high-altar 
of  the  conventual  church  of  Santa  Chiara  at  Florence,  the  latter  by 
Leonardo  del  Tasso  (ca.  1520),  —  Near  this  chapel  are  models  of 
certain  of  the  best  examples  of  architectural  ornament  in  Italy : 
portion  of  the  Borgia  Apartment  in  the  Vatican;  portion  of  the 
Villa  Madama  on  Monte  Mario,  Rome  j  the  great  'bancone*  in  the 
Sala  del  Cambio,  Perugia ;  the  Chapel  of  St.  Peter  Martyr  in  Sant' 
Eustorgio,  Milan;  the  Chapel  of  St.  Catharine  in  San  Maurizio, 
Milan ;  part  of  the  tribune  of  the  Riccardi  Chapel  at  Florence ;  and 
part  of  a  room  in  the  Palazzo  Macchiavelli,  Florence. 

Bronzes.  Busts  of  Popes  Innocent  X.  (attributed  to  Bernini  or 
Algardi),  Siitus  V.  (ca.  1590),  and  Alexander  VIH.  (ca.  1690).  Bust 
of  Henry  VII.,  attributed  to  Torrigiano.  —  Relief  with  the  Flight 
into  Egypt  (Lombard;  16th  cent.).  —  Relief  of  the  Holy  Family,  by 
Pierino  da  Vinci.  —  Entombment,  by  Donatello  (ca.  1460).  —  Pietk, 
by  Belluno  (the  door  of  a  ciborium).  —  In  the  glass-cases  are 
Italian  bronzes  of  the  14-18th  centuries.   2nd  Case.   109.  P.  Leoni, 


TheWestEnd.    31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.       363 

Madonna  and  Child  witK  St.  Anne,  in  gilded  bronze.  3rd  Case.  267. 
Minerra  (ca.  1500);  347.  OenUur  (16th  cent.).  4th  Case.  Knockers, 
ink-bottles,  lamps,  etc.  106.  Yintagerirlth  dog.  5th  Case.  442. 
Yenns  and  Onpld  (16th cent.);  279.  Statuette  of  a  woman  (ca.  1500); 
4533.  Thorn -extractor  (Florentine;  15th  cent.).  6th  Case.  67. 
BeHoldo  di  Giovanni,  Belief  with  Onplds;  3624.  Riecio,  Ink-hotUe; 
4699.  St.  Jerome  (Flor.;  15th  cent.);  ♦8717.  DonaUllo,  Mirror- 
cover;  58.  BellunOj  Medallions  with  the  Labours  of  Hercules;  574. 
BiceiOy  Lamp  with  faun's  head ;  475.  DonalellOy  Putto. 

The  E.  Aboadb  contains  a  collection  of  European  tapestry  and 
textile  fabrics,  including  the  superb  *Sion  Cope,  from  the  convent 
of  Sion  at  Isleworth  (p.  405),  English  embroidery  of  the  13th  cen- 
tury. One  large  case  is  occupied  by  a  Venetian  bed  and  furniture 
of  the  18th  century. 

West  SEonoK.  The  portion  of  this  section  next  the  central 
passage  also  contains  Italian  sculpture,  mainly  in  terracotta.  On  the 
end- wall ;  320.  Terracotta  bust  of  a  lady ;  5959.  Florentine  lavabo 
(ca.  1490);  454.  Tomb  of  Gaspare  More,  from  Santa  Maria  della 
Misericordia  in  Venice.  1st  tall  stand :  *7609.  Luca  deUa  Bohhia, 
Sketch  in  stucco  for  one  of  the  panels  of  the  singing  boys  on  the 
singing -gallery  executed  for  Florence  Cathedral  (p.  352);  251. 
Verrocchio  (?),  Discordia  (stucco  relief) ;  7590.  Stucco  relief  resem- 
bling DonaUUo'8  Madonna  Pazzi  (now  in  Berlin);  5.  Ben,  da  McUano, 
Madonna ;  93.  DonateUo  (?),  Coloured  relief  of  the  Madonna  enthroned 
with  saints  and  angels ;  7607.  Copy  of  DonattUo't  relief  of  St  George, 
on  Or  San  Michele,  Florence ;  6.  Domenieo  BoaseUi,  Madonna,  in 
painted  stucco.  —  2nd  Stand  (terracottas):  7584, 452.  Busts  of  Christ 
(beginning  of  the  16th  cent.) ;  7578.  Baffddlo  da  Montelupo  (?),  Bead- 
ing saint;  8381.  PietJt,  after  Michael  Angela ;  7587.  Bust  (16th  cent.) ; 
8527.  Fountain-group  (ca.  1500};  8383.  Bust  of  an  old  man  (15th 
cent.).  —  3rd  Stand  (terracottas):  8378.  Coloured  statue  of  the  Ma- 
donna, from  a  group  of  the  Annunciation  (15th  cent.) ;  7574.  Master 
of  the  Pellegrini  Chapel,  Statuette  of  the  Madonna  (ca.  1420) ;  7573. 
Jac.  della  Quercia ,  Statuette  of  the  Madonna ;  4497.  Bust  of  the 
young  St.  John,  in  the  style  of  Verrocchio;  4906.  Bust  (Florence; 
15th  cent.);  7585.  DonaUllo,  St.  Cecilia(?).  — •  4th  Stand  (terra- 
cottas) :  4495.  Desiderio  da  Settignano  or  AnU  BosselUno  (?),  Statuette 
of  the  Madonna;  7575.  Jac.  8ansovino(^)y  John  the  Baptist;  7646. 
Style  of  Verrocchio,  Bust  of  the  young  St.  John;  7618.  Statuette  of 
St.  Sebastian  (Florentine;  15th  cent.);  And,  del  Verrocchio,  Clay- 
sketch  for  the  monument  to  Card.  Forteguerra  in  Pistoia  Cathedral.  -^ 
7613.  Jac.  della  Quercia,  Belief  from  a  cassone,  with  scenes  from 
the  Garden  of  Eden  (ca.  1420);  7576.  Verrocchio  {J),  Relief  of  the 
Madonna ;  *240-242.  Ben,  da  Maiano,  Terracotta  studies  for  three 
of  the  reliefs  on  the  pulpit  in  Santa  Croco  at  Florence.  —  On  the 
inner  row  of  stands  and  in  cases  as  we  return:  4123  (pedestal  case). 
Terracotta  sketch  for  the  atatue  of  Jonah  in  the  Chigi  Chapel  in  Santa 
Basdbxbb's  London.  iSth  Edit.  23 


364        31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.     TheWeatEnd, 

Maria  del  Popolo  at  Rome,  a?ciil)ed  to  Raphael.  7593.  Ben,  da 
Maiano^  Birth  of  John  the  Baptist  (relief) ;  4128.  Oiovanni  da  Bologna, 
Original  sketch  for  the  Rape  of  the  Sabines  on  the  pedestal  of  the 
group  in  the  Loggia  de'  Lanzi  at  Florence ;  939.  Style  of  Qiov.  da 
Bologna,  Rape  of  the  Sabines  (or  Hercules  and  Achelous  straggling 
for  Deianelra),  a  group  in  wood.  7572.  Maslpr  of  tht  Pellegrini  Chapel, 
Madonna.  157.  Bust  of  Mary  Magdalen  (arms  broken  off),  of  the 
School  of  Donatella.  7365.  Desiderio  da  Settignano  (?),  Relief  of  the 
Madonna.  lu  a  glass-case:  4496.  Ant,  RossellinOy  Infant  St.  John; 
School  of  Verrocchio,  7402.  David  in  a  cuirass,  7602.  David  with 
the  head  of  Goliath;  253.  School  of  Donatello,  Two  children  quar- 
relling. In  a  detached  glass-case  and  on  the  adjoining  screen 
are  small  models  in  wax  and  terracotta  by  Italian  sculptors  of  the 
16th  cent.,  including  twelve  ascribed  to  Michael  Angelo;  1092.  "Wax 
model  of  the  marble  group  of  the  Rape  of  the  Sabines  in  the  Loggia 
dei  Lauzi  at  Florence,  executed  by  Giovanni  da  Bologna f  328-330. 
.  Wax  models  of  panels  of  Scenes  from  the  Passion,  in  the  church  of  the 
Santissima  Annuuziata,  at  Florence,  by  Giov.  da  Bologna,  —  7366. 
Master  of  the  PeUegrini  Chapel,  Madonna;  7622.  Ant.  RosseUino (?), 
Madonna  (stucco) ;  5887.  Style  of  Antonio  Pollaiuolo,  Medallion  of 
the  Medici,  in  the  form  of  a  ring;  4.  School  of  Donatello,  Adoration 
of  the  Child. 

At  the  N.  end  of  this  section  of  the  court  is  a  colleetion  of  glazed 
terracotta  works,  some  attributed  to  Luca  and  Andrea  delta  Robbia 
of  Florence  (15-1 6th  cent.).  Those  in  white  or  uncoloured  enamel 
are  the  oldest,  while  the  coloured  pieces  date  from  the  first  decade 
of  the  16th  century.  Among  the  most  interesting  speeimens  are 
twelye  *Medallion8  representing  the  months,  ascribed  to  Luea  delta 
Robbia;  large  medallion  executed  by  Luoa  delta  Robbia  toi  the 
Loggia  de'  Pazzi,  with  the  arms  of  King  Ren^  of  Anjou  in  the 
centre ;  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  with  a  portrait  of  Perugino  (looking 
over  the  shoulder  of  the  king  in  the  green  robe  and  turban);  Virgin 
and  Child,  by  Andrea  delta  Robbia,  In  front  of  the  large  medallion 
is  a  collection  of  Italian  art-objects,  lent  by  Mr.  J.  Pierpont  Morgan. 
—  Here  is  also  an  extensive  collection  of  Italian  Majolica,  includ- 
ing a  famous  plateau  with  a  portrait  of  Pietro  Perugino. 

The  S.  part  of  the  West  Arcade  of  this  court  and  the  adjoining 
portion  of  the  corridor  leading  to  the  Refreshment  Rooms  (p.  355) 
are  occupied  by  a  valuable  collection  of  Musical  Instrumenti: 
Harpsichord  which  belonged  to  Handel ;  German  flnger-organ,  said 
to  have  once  belonged  to  Martin  Luther ;  Spinet  of  pear-tree  wood,, 
carved  and  adorned  with  ebony,  ivory,  lapis  lazuli,  and  marble, 
by  Annibale  de'  Rossi  of  Milan  (1577);  virginals  of  Queen  Eliza- 
beth of  England  and  of  Elizabeth  of  Bohemia;  Harpsichord  in- 
scribed ^Hieronymus  Bononiensis  faciebat,  RomsMDXXr. 

Two  rooms  to  the  W.  of  the  South  Court  contain  collections  of 
ancient  Roman,. Venetian,  German,  and  other  glass,  and  of  Hispano- 


HheWestBnd.    31.  SOtTTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.       355 

Moreflque  pottery,  including  a  ^Vase  from  Malaga  (ca.  1500)  and 
other  specimens  of  great  beanty  and  rarity.  Part  of  the  second  room 
is  devoted  to  ItalianWoodufork  And.  Furniture^  inclading  several  fine 
marriage-coffers  (' cassoni')  and  gilt  frames  (16th  cent.).  To  the  N.W. 
is  a  room  coutainlug  Egyptian  antiquities  (blue  glazed  sceptre  of 
the  18th  Dynasty),  Greek  vases,  Tanagra  figurines,  and  other  Greek 
and  Roman  antiquities.  At  the  N.  W.  angle  is  a  staircase  ascending 
to  the  upper  floor  (see  helow). 

From  the  W.  arcade  a  passage  leads  to  the  Horth.  Corridor  off 
vhlch  open  the  *Befre9hment  Rooms  (p.  345).  This  corridor  containf , 
in  addition  to  musical  instruments  (see  p.  354),  a  number  of  modern 
marble  statues  and  original  models.  Among  these  may  be  men- 
tioned the  models  by  FLaxman,  and  the  Savonarola  and.othor  busts 
by  BaaHanini  (1830-68),  celebrated  for  his  admirable  imitations 
of  the  style  of  the  15th  century.  The  windows  contain  interesting 
specimens  of  stained  glass,  partly  from  German  churches.  At  the 
W.  end  of  the  corridor  are  specimens  of  European  furniture,  and 
farther  on  is  a  staircase  leading  to  the  Keramic  Gallery  (p.  361). 
We  turn  to  the  right  into  the  — 

Vorth-West  Corridor,  which  contains  part  of  the  collection  of 
English  furniture  and  also  some  old  carriages.  At  its  N.W.  corner 
is  an  exit  into  Exhibition  Road  (see  p.  361). 


B.  Upfbb  Floob  of  Main  Builbino. 

The  upper  floor,  which  accommodates  the  continuation  of  the 
collections  of  applied  art  and  also  the  picture-gallery,  may  be 
reached  by  staircases  to  the  N.W.  of  the  N.  court  (see  above),  at 
the  £.  end  of  the  S.  corridor  (p.  347),  and  at  the  W.  end  of  the  re- 
freshment-room corridor  (comp.  Plan,  p.  346). 

The  Picture  Gallery  includes  a  *Iliatorical  Collection  of  Britiah 
Water-colour  Drawings^  of  great  interest  to  the  student  and  lover 
of  art;  the  *BritUh  Fine  Art  Collection^  representing  mainly  British 
painting;  the  lonides  Collection  of  foreign  and  British  works ;  and  the 
famous  CartoonB  of  Raphael^  formerly  in  Hampton  Court.  Ascend- 
ing the  staircase  from  the  N.  court,  at  the  top  of  which  are  some 
original  cartoons  of  the  frescoes  in  the  Houses  of  Parliament  (p.  219), 
and  an  original  model  of  a  group  of  the  Graces,  by  Baily,  we  enter 
the  Water  Colour  Collection,  passing  through  R.  IV.  to  — 

Boom  I  (comp.  Plaa  p.  358).  Thia  contains  works  by  A.  T.  Devis, 
Gainsborough,  Bmj.  West,  Cipriani,  W.  Party  U.  A.  Hooker,  T.  Htame, 
F.  Wheatley,  and  others.  On  screens  are  works  by  Arthur  Melville,  P.  Sandhy, 
T.  Oirtiiiy  T.  Rouflandson,  etc.  In  this  room  are  also :  A.  Rodin,  St.  John 
the  Bapti>-t  (bronze  replica);  Lord  Leighton,  Needless  alarms;  Onslow  Ford, 
Fate  (unfinished);  four  statuettes  by  Alf.  Gilbert. 

Boom  II.  On  the  walls  are  water-colours  by  Young,  Bewick,  W,  Payne, 
A.  Wilson,  Josh.  Wallit,  Qandy,  H.  W.  Williams,  Pyne,  B.  and  T.  Barker, 
Glover^  BeinagU,  etc.  On  screens  are  works  by  G.  Chambers,  Richards, 
W.  Turmeir,  J,  D.  Harding,  fT.  /.  Mailer,  WesUdl,  R.  Bonington,  G.  Barret, 
Samuel  JYout,  etc.    On  the  S.  wall  are  pastel  heads,  by  John  Russell, 

23* 


366       31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.     TheWest  Etid, 

Boom  III  contains  works  by  S.  AiuHn^  P.  de .  WM,  Copley  Fidding^ 
G.  F.  RoUon^  David  Cox,  J,  M.  W,  Turner,  Sir  A.  W.  Calleottj  etc.  On 
screens  are  water-colours  by  /.  8.  Cotman,  Crome,  and  other  members  of 
the  Korwich  School:  the  Varleyi,  W.  Havelly  H.  Edridge^  etc.  —  A  passage 
leads  from  this  room  to  the  Keramic  Gallery  (p.  S61). 

At  the  end  of  the  room  are  a  terracotta  figure  of  Garlyle,  by  Boehm, 
a  case  containing  old  books  and  book  covers,  and  a  Chinese  model  of  a 
Buddhist  temple  (?)  and  buildings.  The  latter  and  the  interesting  drawings 
(by  Thackeray,  Leech,  Landteer,  etc.)  on  the  adjoining  screen  belong  to  the 
Forster  Collection  (see  below). 

Boom  lY  is  hung  with  works  by  Carl  Haag,  0.  A.  Fripp,  Kate  Greenaway, 
Walter  Crane,  Thos.  Collier,  Chcu.  Green,  Birket  Foster,  Sir  John  Gilbert, 
Sir  E,  J,  Poynter,  Sir  Ed.  Bume-Jonet,  Millaii,  BoseeUi,  Boltnan  Hunt,  Madox 
Brown,  etc. 

Boom  Y  contains  water-colours  by  Linnell,  8.  Cooper,  T.  M.  Richardson, 
L.  Haghe,  J.  Nash,  G.  Cattermole,  W.  H.  Hunt,  D.  Roberts,  W.  C.  Stanfield, 
R.  Doyle,  R.  Caldecott,  etc.  Those  on  the  screens  are  by  /.  F.  Lewis,  W. 
Bennett,  T.  B.  Hardy,  Ruskin,  Stocks,  Penley,  Callow,  Topham,  etc. 

Boom  YI.  FoasTEK  and  Dtce  Bkqdksts.  To  the  left,  Dyce  Collec- 
tion: Betkf.  West,  Saul  and  the  Witch  ofEndor;  Unknown  Artist,  Edmund 
Eean  as  Sir  Giles  Overreach.  Mrs.  Siddons;  Raebum,  Alex.  Dyce  as  a  boy; 
Halls,  "^Edmund  Kean  as  Richard  III.;  Gainsborough,  Portrait  of  J.  J. 
Eirby;  Unknown  Artist,  Hilton;  Ascribed  to  Janssens,  Dr.  Donne;  Somney, 
Serena.  —  Forster  Collection :  G.F.  Watts,  Thomas  Garlyle;  Frith,  Charles 
Dickens;  G.  S.  Newton,  Sir  Walter  Scott;  From  Hals,  *Man  with  a  jug; 
2>.  Maclise,  Scene  from  'Every  Man  in  his  Humour^;  Wynfield,  Death  of 
Cromwell:  Sir  W,  Boxall,  Walter  Savage  Landor;  Millais,  Earl  ofLytton; 
Webb,  Politicians:  Perugini,  John  Forster  (donor  of  the  collection);  Webb, 
Checkmate;  Frith,  Dolly  Varden;  R.  Bonington.  St.  Michael's  Mount; 
Gainsborough,  *His  daughters.  —  The  glass-cases  in  this  room  contain 
the  M8S.  of  several  of  Dickens's  novels,  including  the  unfinished  *Edwin 
Drood\with  the  last  words  he  wrote ;  autographs  of  Carlyle,  Scott,  Napoleon, 
Queen  Elizabeth,  Keats,  etc. ;  three  sketch-books  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci, 
which  the  master  used  to  carry  at  his  belt. 

Boom  YII  contains  the  oil-paintings  of  the  Ionidbs  Collection.  To 
the  left:  165.  Beccafumi,  Virgin  and  Child;  101.  School  of  Orcagna,  Coro- 
nation of  the  Virgin;  Lenain,  *18.  The  flageolet-player,  17  (farther  on). 
Landscape  with  figures :  N.  Poussin,  22.  Artists  sketching  among  ruins,  21. 
Venus  arming  iBneas ;  107.  Francois  Millet,  Landscape;  Ingres,  68.  Henri  IV. 
and  the  Spanish  ambassador,  57  (farther  on).  Sleeping  odalisque ;  64.  Dela- 
croix, Shipwreck  of  Don  Juan,  sketch  for  the  painting  in  the  Louvre; 
Regamey,  72.  The  sentinel,  *71  (above),  Pereheron  horses,  78  (farther  on), 
Arab  soldiers;  /.  F.  Millet,  172.  Landscape,  48.  Shepherdess,  *47.  Wood- 
sawyers,  *49.  The  well ;  60.  G.  Courbet,  Landscape ;  Corotj  66.  Morning,  66. 
Twilight;  Th.  Rousseau,  66.  Landscape,  *64.  Tree  in  Fontainebleau  Forest, 
56.  Landscape;  Diaz  de  la  Pdla,  164.  Landscape,  62.  View  in  Fontainebleau 
Forest,  61.  The  bather;  69.  G.  Courbet,  L'Immensit€;  67.  (?.  MicheL  The  mill; 
69,  68.  Lhermitte,  Breton  scenes;  19.  Degas,  Ballet-scene  from  *Boberto  11 
Diavolo";  Legros,  24.  The  tinker,  23.  May  service  for  young  women ;  9.  Sir 
E.  Bume-Jonee,  Cupid's  hunting -fields  (monochrome);  16.  Sir  L.  Alma- 
Tadema,  The  visit;  108.  Old  Crome,  A  Norfolk  wherry ;  G.F.  Watts,  1.  The 
window-seat  (1861),  '2.  Daphne's  bath;  8.  D.  G.  RossettL  The  day-dream; 
13.  RicJuird  Bonington,  Place  des  Molards,  Geneva;  109.  Gainsborough,  Land- 
scape; 8.  Sir  E.  Bume- Jones,  The  mill;  80.  A.  Brouwer,  Interior;  87.  /.  van 
Walscappelle,  Flowers;  86.  JEbninc*,  Dutch  landscape;  84.  Terburg,  Cavaliers; 
Rembrandt,  163.  Head  of  a  man,  78.  Dijmissal  of  Hagar;  94.  Rubens,  Design 
for  a  ceiling;  89.  Jan  van  Goyen,  Landscape;  106.  Unknown  Artist,  Persian 
Sibyl ;  81.  Jan  Both,  Peasant  and  mule ;  85.  /.  van  Ruysdael,  The  mill ; 
95.  Titpolo,  Martyr  received  into  heaven  (design  for  a  ceiling) ;  99.  Florentine 
School,y irgin  and  Child ;  103.  Tintoretto,  Portrait;  106.  Jac.  da  Ponte(Bassano), 
Angel  appearing  to  the  Shepherds;  9(5.  P.  Veronese,  A  doge  adoring  Christ; 
102.  North  Italian  School  (late  16th  cent.).  Portrait;  100.  Botticelli,  Snaeralda 
BandinelH;  97  (above  the  door),  CoHant  (?),  The  bravo. 


TheWestEnd.     31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.        357 

On  the  fcreens  in  the  centre  of  the  room;  D.  O.  Roi$e(U,  *L  Girl 
holding  her  knees,  6.  Head  of  Andromeda,  7,  5.  Portraits.  —  Burnt- Jone$. 
12.  Head  of  Cassandra,  10.  Dorigen  of  Bretaigne  (from  Chaucer),  11.  Head 
of  a  girl;  /.  J/.  Avon,  110.  A  tiger,  Itl.  A  polar  bear.  —  Several  water- 
colours  by  Ze^os,  Rtgameify  J.  F.  MUlet^  and  uarpigniu;  caricature  sketches 
by  Dawnier;  two  water-colours  by  R.  Bon4»ffton. 

Boom  YHI  contains  the  valuable  etchings,  engravings,  lithographs,  and 
drawings  of  the  lonides  Collection.  On  the  wall  to  the  left  are  modern 
French  works;  on  the  exit- wall,  etchings  by  /.  M.  WhUtter;  on  the  wall 
to  the  right,  old  Italian  engravings  and  drawings.  Tbe  radiating  stand  in 
the  centre  contains  etchings  by  Rembrandt. 

Beyond  Room  YIII  is  the  staircase  descending  to  the  S.  coiildox 
(p.  347).  We,  hovever,  now  letom  to  Room  I  and  thence  enter  the 
North  Gallery,  or  — 

**BaplLael  Boom,  containing  the  marvellous  cartoons  executed 
by  the  great  painter  for  Pope  Leo  X. ,  in  1515  and  1516,  as  copies 
for  tapestry  to  be  executed  at  Arras  in  Flanders.  Two  sets  of  tapestry 
were  made  from  the  drawings ,  one  of  which ,  in  a  very  dilapidated 
condition,  is  preserved  in  the  Vatican;  the  other,  after  passing 
through  the  hands  of  many  royal  and  private  personages,  is  now  in 
the  Museum  at  Berlin.  The  cartoons  were  originally  ten  in  num- 
ber ,  but  three,  representing  the  Stoning  of  St.  Stephen ,  the  Con- 
version of  St.  Paul,  and  St.  Paul  in  prison  at  PhUippi,  have  been  lost 
(represented  here  by  copies).  The  cartoons  rank  among  Raphael^s 
very  finest  works,  particularly  in  ^oint  of  conception  and  design. 

The  cartoons  here  are  as  follows,  beginning  to  the  right  on 
entering:  —  *0hri8t's  Charge  to  Peter.  —  Death  of  Ananias.  — 
Peter  and  John  healing  the  Lame  Man.  —  Paul  and  Barnabas  at 
Lystra.  Then,  on  the  opposite  wall :  —  *EIymas  the  Sorcerer  struck 
with  blindness.  —  Paul  preaching  at  Athens.  —  ♦The  Miraculous 
Draught  of  Fishes. 

The  room  also  contains  copies  of  the  tapestries  worked  from  the 
three  missing  cartoons  (see  above)  and  some  old  Italian  furniture. 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  hall  is  a  small  vestibule  with  the  Charles 
Kean  collection  of  drawings  of  theatrical  scenery  and  properties ; 
also  some  works  by  foreign  artists ;  the  radiating  stand  in  the  centre 
contains  works  hy  Eugene  L.  Lami  (d.  1890),  Mulready^  etc.  Turning 
to  the  right  we  reach  the  rooms  occupied  by  the  British  Fine  Art 
Collection,  or  Sheepshanks  Collection,  a  valuable  and  re- 
presentatlTe  gallery  of  British  painting,  mainly  presented  by  the  late 
Mr,  John  Sheepshanks, 

Koom  A.  To  the  left  are  a  number  of  works  by  C.  R.  Leslie:  *114.  Florizel 
and  Perdita,  *i09.  Scene  from  the  ^Taming  of  the  Shrew",  115.  Antolycns, 
etc.  Also :  10.  Calleott^  Slender  and  Anne  Page ;  121.  Sir  Thos.  Latorence^  Queen 
Caroline;  1489.  Hoppner^  Portrait;  896.  Lanee^  Fruit*,  69.  Cope,  II  Penseroso ; 
Redgrave,  172.  Bolton  Abbey,  *171.  Ophelia;  166.  ilTevton, Portia  and  Bassanio ; 
210.  Turnery  Boyal  Yacht  Squadron,  Gowes;  58.  Cope,  L' Allegro ;  226.  Wilkie, 
The  refusal  (^Duncan  Gray*);  11.  Callcott,  Dort  (a  sunny  meadow) ;  213. 
Uteins,  Italian  mother  teaching  her  child  the  tarantella;  207.  Turner,  Line- 
flshing  off  Hastings;  74.  Frith,  Honey  wood  introducing  the  bailiffs  to  Miss 
Richmond  as  his  friends ;  Redgrave,  An  old  English  homestead ;  Turner,  208. 
Venice^  209.  St.  HichaeFs  Mount,  ComwaU;  223.  Webster,  Contrary  winds; 


358       31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.     The  West  End. 


John  lAnnell,  Halt  by  the  Jordan;  31.  Collins^  8eaford«  coast  of  Sassex ; 
679.  Angelica  Kctttfmanny  Lady  Hamilton;  1405.  Oeo.  Oruikshemki  Cinderella; 
113.  Lfttie,  Uncle  Toby  and  the  Widow  Wadman  (comp.p.265);  211.  Turner^ 
Vesflel  in  distreu  off  Yarmouth ;  110.  Leslie^  Characters  in  the  ^tferry  Wives 
of  Windsor';  and  several  landscapes  by  Richard  Wihon.  —  The  cases  in 
the  centre  of  the  room  contain  a  collection  of  fine  enamels  and  miniatures. 
Boom  B.  To  the  left:  Merlandy  1403.  Horses  in  a  stable,  237.  The 
reckoning;  83.  /.  G.  Horslev,  Rival  performers;  *165.  P.  Natmvth^  Sir  Philip 


Staircase  to  the  S.  Court. 


Sidney's  Oak,  Panshurst;  91.  Oaintborough^  Queen  Charlotte;  Mulready^ 
141.  First  love,  116.  The  sonnet,  145.  Choosing  the  wedding-gown,  152. 
Portrait  of  Mr.  Sheepshanks,  142.  Interior  with  portrait  of  Mr.  Sheepshanki^, 
138.  Seven  ages  of  man,  139.  The  fight  interrupted,  143.  Open  your  month 
and  shut  your  eyes!,  148.  The  butt.  —  *222.  ITefta^er, Village-choir;  'lOS. 
C.  Landseei'f  Temptation  of  Andrew  Marvell;  233.  Creswiek^  The  Land's 
End,  Cornwall;  15.  CalleoU^  Sunny  morning;  197.  Slothard,  Shakspeare's 
principal  characters ;  219.  Webster^  Sickness  and  health.  —  234.  T.  Danby, 


TheWestEnd.     31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.        359 

Welsh  moantain-fcene;  18Q8.  Btring^  Arona,  on  Lago  Uaggiore ;  374.  Louther- 
hourg^  Landscape;  233.  Dctnby^  Xoantain-scene  in  Wales;  *\\^9.  Sianfield^ 
Market-boat  on  the  Scheldt-,  67.  FeUa  Douglas,  Alchemist;  167.  Redgrave, 
Cinderella;  188.  Stanfieldy  Dear  Cologne;  81.  J.  Jackson  (d.  1831),  Portrait 
of  the  artist.  —  On  the  screens  are  paintings  by  Stothard^  Morland,  UnneU, 
R.  W.  WmU  Sir  John  Oilberty  StanJUtd^  Heffner^  W.  Collins,   Cresuiei,  etc. 

Koom  0.  To  the  left:  Landscapes  by  Dawson  (No.  177),  Barret  (Ko.4), 
and  OlowrCSo.  165) i  16.  /.  R.  RHd,  The  Thames  at  evening;  •261.  De  Wint, 
Woody  landscape ;  242.  Howard,  Peasants  of  Snbiaco ;  1827.  Lee  and  Cooper, 
Wooded  glen,  with  cattle;  25S.  De  Wint,  Cornfield;  249.  Monamv,  Old  Kast 
India  Wharf  at  London  Bridge ;  220.  Ward,  Bnlls  fighting.  —  *190.  Stanfield, 
Sands  near  Boulogne;  *88.  E.  Landseer,  The  drover's  departure,  a  scene 
in  the  Grampians;  176.  Roberts,  Gate  at  Cairo;  501.  Dawson^  Shipping; 
232.  /.  Crome,  Household  Heath.  Then  a  number  of  works  by  Sir  E.  Land- 
seer:  92.  The  *Twa  Dogs';  *93.  The  old  shepherd's  chief  mourner  ('one 
of  the  most  perfect  poems  or  pictures',  says  Mr.  Buskin,  ^which  modem 
times  have  seen');  *87.  Highland  breakfast;  91.  'There's  no  place  like 
home',  etc.  —  954.  H.  Andrews^  Garden  scene;  234.  Chalon,  Hasting}*,  with 
fishing-boats  making  for  shore  in  a  breeze ;  15.  T.  Oraham,  Wayfarers ; 
64.  Crome,  Woody  landscape.  —  The  radiating  frames  contain  drawings  by 
Mulready,  Redgrave,  Diteh^eld,  Leech,  etc. 

Eoom  D.  This  room  is  devoted  chiefly  to  a  collection  of  paintings 
and  studies  by  JoJin  Constable,  R.  A.,  given  by  Mr.  Sheepshanks  and  Miss 
Isabel  Constahle.  To  the  left:  *34.  Dedham  Mill,  £ssex;  *33.  Salisbury 
Cathedral;  *36.  Hampstead  Heath ;  1630.  Kear  Hampstead  Church.  To  the 
right:  *a7.  Boat-building  near  Flatford  Mill;  1632.  Water-mill  at  Gilling- 
ham;  *d6.  Hampstead  Heath;  1631.  Cottage  in  the  cornfield;  *38.  Water- 
meadows  near  Salisbury.  —  On  five  screens  and  on  the  walls  are  sketches 
by  the  same  artist.  Between  the  exits  into  the  next  gallery  is  a  study 
for  'The  Hay  Wain',  by  Constable. 

In  the  adjacent  long  Gallbkies  Ib  the  superb  **Collectlon  of 
French  marquetry  and  other  furniture,  porcelain,  miniatures,  bron- 
zes, paintings,  and  sculptures  of  the  18th  cent.,  bequeathed  to  the 
Museum  by  Mr,  John  Jones  (d.  1882),  officially  valued  at  250,000^. 
Special  handbook,  -with  numerous  illustrations,  Is. 

The  Lept  Gallbbt  contains  furniture ,  nearly  all  of  the  best 
period  of  French  art  in  this  department.  Among  the  most  in- 
teresting pieces  are  an  escritoire  %  toilette,  in  light-coloured  wood, 
which  is  said  to  have  belonged  to  Marie  Antoinette,  and  was  perhaps 
executed  by  David  Rdntgen(i)]  two  escritoires  by  the  same;  a 
writing-table  and  a  small  round  table  with  Sevres  plaque,  both 
belonging  to  Marie  Antoinette  (the  two  valued  at  upwards  of  5000^.) ; 
cabinet  of  black  boule  (purchased  by  Mr.  Jones  for  30002.) ;  a  mar- 
quetry cabinet  inlaid  with  Sevres  plaques,  etc.  In  one  of  the  cen- 
tral cases  is  one  of  the  fifty  copies  of  the  Portland  Vase  (p.  315) 
made  by  Wedgwood. 

RiOHT  Gallbbt.  Collection  of  Sevres,  Oriental,  Dresden,  and 
Chelsea  porcelain.  Among  these  may  be  mentioned  the  ^gros  bleu' 
S^Trea  vases,  the  green  porphyry  vases,  the  ^Rose  du  Barry'  service, 
etc.  —  Collection  of  jewellery  and  miniatures,  including  •Portraits 
of  Louis  XIV.  by  Petitot.  —  The  fine  collection  of  snuff-boxes  in- 
cludes many  with  miniatures  by  Petitot,  Blaremberghe,  and  others. 
—  Sculptures,  among  which  are  busts  of  Marie  Antoinette  and  the 
Princess  de  Lamballe  ^  in  the  style  of  Houdon.  —  At  the  N.  en  (J 


360       31 .  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.     The  Wat  End. 

of  this  gallery  Is  a  mag^flcent  ^Annolre,  with  inlaid  work  by 
Andri  Boule  or  Bukl^  Uie  coart  cabinet-maker  of  LohIb  XIY.  — 
The  piotnres  on  the  walls  include  examples  of  Oaimborough,  Land- 
seer,  Linnelly  Mulreadyf  and  other  English  artists.  The  foreign  works 
are  mostly  school-copies,  but  there  is  a  genuine,  signed  work  by 
Crivelli  (Madonna),  on  the  right  wall  at  the  end  of  the  left  gallery. 

The  Innettes  in  the  galleries  contain  decoratiye  paintings  to 
Illustrate  the  different  branches  of  Art  Studies.  At  the  S.  end  of  the 
Gallery  is  a  staircase  leading  down  to  the  E.  section  of  the  Sontb 
Court  (p.  361). 

We  now  return  to  Room  D,  and  turn  (to  the  left)  into  the 
Gallery  which  separates  the  N.  from  the  S.  Court,  passing  Leigb- 
ton*s  great  fresco  described  at  p.  360.  The  W.  portion  of  the  Gal- 
lery contains  paintings  by  Crome,  Philippoteaux,  and  others,  and 
glass  cases  with  specimens  ot  Bookbinding.  The  balcony  on  our  right, 
from  which  we  look  down  into  the  N.  court  midway  in  this  gallery, 
is  the  singing  gallery,  mentioned  at  p.  851.  Opposite  it  is  tbe 
"Trince  Consort  Gallery,  which  contains  a  rich  selection  of  small 
mediffiyal  works  of  art,  in  glass-cases  in  the  centre,  and  German, 
French,  Papal,  and  Italian  medals  in  frames,  on  the  right  and  left. 

The  first  glass-case,  higher  than  the  others,  holds  ancient  enamelled 
works,  the  most  important  of  which  are  a  *Shrine  in  the  form  of 
a  church  with  a  dome  (Rhenish  Byzantine  of  12th  cent.,  bought  for 
2142Z.),  a  ♦Triptych  of  champlevtf  enamel  (German,  13th  cent.), 
and  an  *Altar-croBS  of  Rhenish  Byzantine  work  with  enamel  medal- 
lions (12th  cent.).  The  following  cases  contain  examples  of  an- 
cient and  modem  enamels,  especially  some  fine  Limoges  Enamels 
of  the  15th,  16th,  and  17th  centuries.  The  most  raluable  objects 
are  a  small  *Cup  and  cover,  decorated  with  translucent  enamel, 
known  as  ^email  de  pUque  I  jour',  in  Case  3,  the  OTal  ^Portrait  of 
the  Cardinal  de  Lorraine  (bought  for  2000^),  and  the  large  *Casket, 
enamelled  on  plates  of  silyer,  with  a  band  of  dancing  figures,  ascribed 
to  Jean  Limousin  (16th  cent.),  in  Case  4.  In  Case  12  are  English 
enamels  (made  at  Bilston  and  Battersea).  —  To  the  right,  at  the 
end  of  the  gallery,  are  several  cases  containing  specimens  of  It- 
luminated  Manuscripts,  —  The  door  beyond  gives  upon  the  staircase 
to  the  Art  Library  (comp.  p.  347). 

The  Qallery  of  the  Architectural  Courts  reached  by  a  few  steps  at  the 
S.  end  of  the  Prince  Consort  Gallery,  contains  the  collection  of  Orna- 
mental Ironwork,  of  Italian,  French,  German,  and  English  origin:  bal- 
conies, window-gratings,  lamps,  etc.  « 

The  *Kera]nic  Gallery,  entered  from  Rooms  in  and  Y  of  the 
picture  galleries  (p.  356),  contains  an  admirable  collection  of  earthen- 
ware, porcelain,  and  stoneware.  We  first  reach  the  collection  of 
English  pottery  of  the  17th  and  18th  cent.;  Wedgwood  ware;  Chelsea, 
Worcester,  and  Derby  porcelain;  enamelled  earthenware.  The 
following  cases  contain  the  Collection  of  English  Pottery  given 
to  the  Museum  by  Lady  Charlotte  Schreiber,  including  fine  exam- 


TheWettEnd.    31.  SOUTH  KENSINOTON  MUSEUM.       361 

pies  of  most  of  the  older  wares.  This  is  succeeded  by  a  collection 
of  Gexman  and  Flemish  stoneware,  including  seyeral  large  German 
stoyes.  Adjoining  are  specimens  of  French  earthenware  of  the  16th 
cent.,  including  6  pieces  of  the  famous  Henri-Deux  ware  (in  a 
case  by  themselyes),  probably  made  at  St.  Porchaire ;  choice  col- 
lection of  Palissy  ware ;  Sdyres  porcelain ;  Delft ;  Dresden  china ; 
Italian  porcelain,  including  4  pieces  of  the  rare  ^Florentine  por- 
celain of  the  16th  cent.,  probably  the  earliest  porcelain  made  in 
Europe ;  some  Spanish  ware.  The  windows  on  the  right,  in  grisaille, 
designed  by  W.  B,  Scott,  represent  scenes  connected  with  the  history 
of  pottery. 

At  the  ^,  end  of  the  Keramic  Gallery  is  a  highly  decorated 
staircase,  on  which  is  a  memorial  tablet  with  portrait  of  Sir  Henry 
Cole,  K.  C,B,  (d.  1882),  the  first  Director  of  the  Museum.  The 
staircase  descends  to  the  S.  end  of  the  N.W.  Corridor  (p.  355),  at 
the  N.W.  comer  of  which  is  a  door  opening  on  Exhibition  Road, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  which  are  the  Exhibition  Galleries. 

G.  Exhibition  Gallekibs. 

These  gaUeries,  which  contain  the  Science  MaBeum  and  the 
Oriental  Art  CoUeotionB,  extend  behind  the  new  buildings  of  the 
College  of  Science  in  Imperial  Institute  Road  and  on  each  side  (E. 
and  W.)  of  the  Imperial  Institute  (comp.  p.  342).  They  owe  their 
name  to  the  fact  that  they  were  originally  erected  in  connection 
with  the  International  Exhibitions  held  in  the  Horticultural  Society's 
Gardens  (p.  340)  in  1871-74.  ^  Admission,  see  p.  345. 

In  Exhibition  Road,  immediately  opposite  the  N.W.  exit  from 
the  Main  Building,  is  the  entrance  to  the  S.  Gallbby,  which  con- 
tains the  Machinery  and  Inventions  Division.  Some  of  the  machinery 
is  shown  in  motion  or  may  be  set  in  motion  by  the  yisitor.  Passing 
through  two  small  rooms  we  reach  the  Models  of  Mining  Machinery 
and  Mines.  In  the  wall-case  to  the  left,  at  the  foot  of  the  staircase, 
is  an  interesting  collection  of  Miners'  Lamps,  The  gallery  which 
we  haye  now  entered  contains  Metallurgical  Models^  Textile  Models 
and  Machinery  (including  a  historical  collection  of  sewing  and  knitting 
machines,  in  a  wall-case  to  the  left),  and  Printing  and  Writing  Machines 
(with  a  hand-press  said  to  haye  been  used  by  Benjamin  Franklin). 
The  wall-case  to  the  left,  near  the  end,  contains  a  historical  series 
of  type-writing  machines.  —  The  adjacent  bay,  to  the  right,  con- 
tains Agricultural  Models^  with  the  original  Bell  Reaping  Machine 
(1826).  The  next  section  contains  Machine  Tools  for  Metal  Working, 
Woodworking  Machines ,  the  original  model  of  Nasmyth*s  Steam 
Hammer  (2nd  case  from  the  door),  models  of  Oun  Mountings, 
Rifles,  etc.  In  the  wall  cases  to  the  left  are  models  of  Agricultural 
Implements,  Cooking  and  Washing  Mtichines,  and  Lighting  Applian- 
ces. The  table-case  by  the  end-wall  contains  interesting  models 
made  by  James  Watt. 


362       31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.     The  West  End, 

Tlie  collection  of  Steam  Engines,  arranged  as  far  as  possible  in 
historical  sequence  and  showing  the  most  primltiTe  types  contrasted 
with  the  most  recent,  begins  at  the  end  of  this  section.  To  the  right 
are  working  models  of  the  Newcomen  engine  as  it  was  in  1720, 
and  of  the  *01d  Bess'  engine  of  1777,  which  replaced  the  engine  to 
which  James  Watt  applied  for  the  first  time  his  separate  condenser 
(patented  1769).  —  We  now  enter  the  Central  Hall,  which  con- 
tains the  most  interesting  specimens. 

To  the  right  is  Watt's  first  Sun  and  Planet  Engine,  erected  at  Soho 
near  Birmingham,  in  1788.  —  The  visitor  should  also  notice  the  admirable 
models  of  beam-engines  by  James  Watt,  worked  by  compressed  air;  a 
model  of  an  atmospheric  engine  worked  by  steam  Oshewing^  the  state  of 
the  development  of  the  steam  engine  in  17S0,  in  which  form*  it  remained 
until  1760,  when  J.  Watt  commenced  his  improvements').  In  the  centre  of 
the  hall  are,  on  the  left,  the  '■Jgenoria^^  a  locomotive  built  in  18^  by 
Foster  and  Bastrick,  and  '■Puffing  BiUp\  the  oldest  locomotive  engine  in 
existence,  which  was  in  use  at  the  Wylam  Collieries  from  1813  to  i8&l. 
On  the  right,  ^Stephenson's  first  locomotive,  the  Rockety  constructed  to  com- 
pete in  the  trial  of  locomotives  on  the  Liverpool  and  Manchester  Railway  in 
1829,  where  it  gained  the  prize  of  5002. ;  and  the  Sans  Parnly  by  Hackworth 
of  Darlington,  another  competitor  at  the  above-mentioned  trial.  A  glass 
case  in  front  of  the  Rocket  contains  a  number  of  personal  relics  of 
Stepbeason.  These  early  engines  may  be  compared  with  the  fine  models 
of  modem  locomotives  in  the  annexe  behind.  To  the  left,  as  we  quit  the 
central  hall,  is  Heslop's  Winding  and  Pumping  Engine,  patented  m  1790 
and  erected  for  raising  coals  about  1795. 

The  following  room  contains  a  historical  series  of  Oas  Engines^ 
Motors,  and  Dynamos,  At  the  end  are  three  fine  models  of  modem 
fire-engines.  In  the  wall-cases  to  the  left  are  Gas.^  Water,  and 
Electric  Meters,  Injectors,  etc.  —  To  the  left,  at  the  beginning  of 
the  next  room  we  may  note  a  model  of  the  Westinghouse  Brake  and 
the  original  Brougham,  built  for  Lord  Brougham  in  1838.  To  the 
right  are  a  historical  series  of  rails  for  railways,  models  of  railway 
carriages  and  tramways,  etc.  Farther  on,  beyond  the  cranes  and 
apparatus  for  lifting  heavy  weights,  we  reach  the  *Marine  Machine 
ery.  Among  the  most  noteworthy  objects  here  are  the  engine  of 
Bell's  *Comct',  the  earliest  public  passenger-steamship,  which  plied 
on  the  Clyde  in  1812,  the  model  of  the  engines  and  paddle-wheels 
of  the  'Great  Eastern'  (1858),  and  a  model  of  the  Thornycroft-Schulz 
water-tube  boiler  (1904). 

The  following  section  is  devoted  to  ship-models,  trawlers,  dred- 
gers, etc.,  and  contains  a  model  of  Maxim's  Flying  Machine  (1894). 
Farther  on  is  a  room  containing  a  collection  of  models  of  fishing- 
boats,  and  beyond  that  is  the  Museum  of  Economic  Fish  Culture. 

We  now  retrace  Dur  steps  to  the  W.  staircase  and  ascend  to  the 
upper  floor  of  the  gallery.  Here  are  a  collection  of  models  of  Light- 
houses and  Light-Ships,  Farther  on  we  reach  the  most  interesting 
collection  of  •Ship  Models.  In  the  first  room  are  models  of  ships 
and  parts  of  ships  illustrating  ship  -  construction  generally  j  also 
models  of  Chinese,  Burmese,  Indian,  and  Japanese  boats;  and  of  Brl- 
*sh  life-boats.    In  the  vestibule  is  a  model  of  the  Imperial  Russian 


Vie  Wett  End.     3 1 .  SOUTB  KENSINGTON  BfUSEUM.       363 

yaclit  'LiYsdia'  (1880).  In  an  anteroom  to  the  next  main  room  are 
models  of  yachts  ('America',  1851  j  'Volunteer*,  1887).  The  second 
room  contains  a  fine  series  of  models  of  Ocean  Liners  from  1839  to 
modem  times.  The  following  room  is  devoted  to  a  chronologically 
arranged  series  of  British  War  ShipSj  from  the  'Royal  Charies'  (1672) 
to  the  'Rnsseir  (1901),  the  first  battle-ship  launched  in  the  20th  cen- 
tury. German,  Mexican,  Turkish,  and  Japanese  war-ships  also  are 
represented.  —  The  contents  of  the  next  room  illustrate  the  con- 
struction of  Boofis  and  Bridges.  Then  follow  a  large  collection  of 
Educational  Models  for  teaching  Mechanics  and  a  collection  of  Tele- 
graphic Instruments.  —  Descending  to  the  groundfloor  by  the  E. 
staircase,  we  regain  the  door  by  which  we  entered. 

The  E.  Gallsby,  entered  from  Imperial  Institute  Road  to  the 
right  (E.)  of  the  Imperial  Institute,  is  devoted  to  the  *Ixidian 
Section  of  South  Kensington  Museum,  formerly  known  as  the 
India  Museum  and  kept  until  1880  in  the  India  Office  (p.  215). 

In  tbe  outer  yestihule  is  a  brass  model  of  the  Palace  of  the  Winds, 
Jeypore.  The  Entrance  Hall,  beyond,  contains  original  and  reproduced 
examples  of  Hindoo  architecture,  including  the  stone  front  of  a  house 
from  Bulandsbahr;  the  facade  of  a  shop  in  Cawnpore;  the  large  facades 
of  two  dwelling-houses  from  Ahmedabad,  in  teak  wood,  carved  and  painted 
(17th  cent.)  J  and  various  carved  windows,  doorways,  balconies,  etc.  In 
the  centre  of  tbe  hall  are  a  wooden  model  of  the  Ruth  Minar,  near  Delhi, 
a  model  of  the  city  of  Lahore,  and  a  copy  of  a  tomb  in  Mooltan  tile-work. 

We  next  pass  the  Staircase,  af^^ending  to  the  right  to  the  upper  floor, 
and  enter  the  Lower  Gallery.  —  Room  I.  On  the  walls,  copies  of  Indian 
frescoes.  Plaster  casts  of  arcbitectural  details  and  sculptures.  Carved 
stone-work.  Marble  throne.  Portions  of  stone  columns  from  a  temple  at 
Ajmir,  destroyed  in  1200.  Model  of  the  'Golden  Temple'  at  Amritzar. 
Near  the  end,  carvings  in  marble  and  soaps* one.  —  Boom  IT.  Cases  with 
figure-models  of  Indian  divinities,  handicraftsmen,  agriculturalists,  etc., 
and  (above  the  wall-caj^ee)  models  of  ships  and  boats.  To  the  right.  Models 
of  Indian  buildings;  swing -bedstead  from  Sind;  model  of  the  car  of 
Juggernaut.  On  the  walls,  Cotton  carpets  from  the  Deccan.  —  Room  III. 
Embroidery,  brocades,  carpets,  and  canopies;  fine  muslins,  gold  embroidered 
fabrics,  costumes.  —  Room  IV.  Embroidered  sbawls  from  Delhi;  garments, 
etc.  On  the  walls,  woollen  carpels  and  rugs.  —  Room  V.  Textile  fabrics; 
printed  cottons ;  printed  muslins ;  lace.  Near  the  end ,  Saddles  and  trappings. 

We  now  reach  the  N.  staircase,  at  the  foot  of  which  are  a  bedstead 
from  Theebaw's  Palace,  Mandalay,  and  an  elaborate  teak-wood  show-case 
from  Travancore  (1900).  —  At  the  head  of  the  staircase  we  enter  the 
Upper  Gallery,  in  which  are  placed  the  collections  of  furniture,  carvings, 
lacquer-work,  arms,  pottery,  jewellery,  and  bronzes. 

Room  VI.  The  first  case  on  the  left  contains  Buddhist  sacred  figures, 
and  brass  and  marble  idols  and  vessels  used  in  tlie  worship  of  Buddha. 
Among  these  are  two  Siamese  figures  of  Buddha  (i9th  cent.),  of  gilt  metal 
decorated  with  glass  spangles.  The  other  cases  contain  Indian  works  in 
metal,  arranged  according  to  countries.  The  most  interesting  are  the 
Bidri  work  from  Pumeah  (in  the  N.W.  Provinces);  *Objects  in  dark  metal, 
damascened  with  silver,  from  the  Deccan;  and  the  Cingalese  weapon**,  etc. 
in  the  central  cases;  bells  from  Tanjore.  On  the  walls  are  native  paintings 
on  tale  and  on  cloth  and  sketches  of  Indian  craftsmen,  by  /.  L.  Kipling. 

Boom  VII.  Central  Bow:  Case  1.  Qolden  throne  of  the  Maharajah 
Bunjeet  Singh.  Case  2.  Loan  collection  of  antique  gems  found  in  India. 
Case  3.  **Ankus\  or  elephant  goad,  of  gold,  richly  ornamented  with  a 
spiral  band  of  diamonds,  and  set  with  rubies  (from  Jeypore);  gold  watch 
of  Tippoo  Sultan..    Cases  4-6.  Articles  in  jade  and  agate.    Case  7.  Gold  or- 


364       31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.     TheWett  End. 

naments  from  Abyssinia.  Case  8.  Model  illustrating  the  way  in  wbich 
Hindoo  women  wear  jewellery.  —  Bow  to  the  left  aa  we  return:  Case  1. 
Qold  and  silver  *FiligTee-work.  Cases  6-8.  Treasure  from  the  King  of 
Burmah^s  Palace  at  Mandalay,  eaptured  in  1886-86  0  other  eases  on  the 
other  side  of  the  room).  Case  9.  Silversmiths^  work.  —  Third  row  as  we 
return:  Cases  1-3.  Silversmiths'  work.  Case  4.  Crvstal.  Case  8.  *#olden 
relics  from  Rangoon,  discovered  in  levelling  a  Buddhist  temple,  consisting 
of  three  ^Charifas'  or  relic  shrines,  a  tassel,  a  howl  with  cover,  a  small 
box,  a  cinerary  urn  of  carved  soapstone,  a  silver  pareel-gilt  plateau,  a 
helmet,  and  a  jeweUed  belt  (dated  the  year  846,  i.e.  1484-85  A.D.).  —  By 
the  walls:  Ornaments  of  various  kinds. 

Room  vm.  By  the  walls :  Arms  and  Armour,  arranged  according  to 
provinces^  the  swords  in  the  cases  to  the  left  are  particularly  interest- 
ing. *Palanquin,  of  ivory,  with  representations  of  battles  and  beautiful 
ornamentation.  *Howdah,  with  embroidered  covering.  Guns.  Bronse  gun 
from  Burmah,  in  the  form  of  a  dragon.  Models  of  Indian  carriages.  Camel 
swivel-gun,  on  a  wooden  saddle.  On  the  wall  to  the  right  is  the  banner 
of  Ayoub  Khan,  captured  at  the  battle  of  Candahar  in  18B0.  The  central 
cases  contain  an  interesting  Thibetan  collection.  —  Off  this  section,  to 
the  right,  opens  the  Cross  Gallery  (see  below). 

Room  IX.  Pottery  and  glass,  arranged  by  provinces.  The  most  im- 
portant  are  the  manufactures  of  the  "N.W.  Provinces  Qeft),  Sindh  (right), 
and  Madras  (left).  On  the  walls,  copies  of  the  paintings  in  the  Ajanta 
caves.  In  the  centre  of  the  room,  a  collection  of  Patna  glass  and  a  large 
earthenware  bowl  used  for  storing  grain. 

Room  X.  Musical  instruments,  including  conches,  two  'nyastarangas^, 
and  a  curious  large  drum.  In  the  first  case  on  the  left  is  a  large  figure 
of  a  tiger  devouring  an  English  officer,  a  barbaric  mechanical  toy  that 
belonged  to  Tippoo  Sahib.  Farther  on  are  caskets  of  sandal-wood  and  other 
woods;  carviogs  in  ivory  and  sandal- wood;  furniture  made  of  ivory  and 
various  kinds  of  wood.  Wooden  articles  lacquered,  the  ornamentation  of 
which  is  more  striking  than  the  forms.  On  the  walls  are  fine  old  Persian 
and  other  carpets  and  water-colour  drawings  of  Indian  costumes,  customs, 
etc.,  by  William  Carpenter,  W.  Simptcn,  and  others.  —  The  staircase  at  the 
end  descends  to  the  entrance. 

*CroBi  Gallery  (see  above).  This  gallery,  consisting  of  a  series 
of  rooms  with  a  total  length  of  900  ft.,  connects  the  upper  floor  of 
the  India  Museum  with  the  upper  floor  of  the  W.  Exhihition  Gal- 
lery (comp.  p.  365).  It  contains  the  Sabacbnic,  Tubkibh,  Pbbsiak, 
Chinese,  and  Japanese  Abt  Collections,  all  of  whicli  wiU  richly 
repay  inspection. 

Room  XI.  'Mushrebiyeh',  or  lattice  window,  from  Cairo.  **Mimbar%  or 
pulpit,  from  a  mosque  at  Cairo,  of  carved  wood  inlaid  with  ivory  and  ebony, 
and  still  bearing  traces  of  painting  (1480).  Casts  of  Saracenic  ornamentation.  — 
Room  XII.  Turkish  and  Qreek  textile  fabrics  and  embroideries  (iM9th  cent.). 
Coloured  casts  of  cornices  in  Cairo;  painted  panelling  from  Constantinople. 
—  Room  XIII.  Saracenic  pottery  and  metal  work.  Fine  mosque-lamps  of 
bronze  and  glass.  Turkish  and  Damascus  tiles.  —  Room  XIY.  Persian 
carpets,  including  (left  wall)  the  splendid  *Holy  CJarpet*  from  the  Mosque 
of  Ardebil  (1640).  —  Room  XV.  Persian  textile  fabrics:  embroideries ;  car> 
pets.  —  Room  XVI.  Persian  arms  and  armour;  bookbindingsMlluminations, 
woodwork.  Cast  of  the  'Archer  Frieze^  from  the  palace  of  Darius  at  Susa 
(500  B.C.),  now  in  the  Louvre.  —  Room  XVII.  Persian  tiles.  Fine  col- 
lection of  Persian  pottery  and  glass.  —  Room  XVIII.  Blue  and  white  and 
other  Chinese  porcelain.  On  the  walls  are  pages  from  an  illustrated  catalogue ; 
embroideries ;  screen  of  porcelain  plaques.  At  the  end  of  this  room  and 
farther  on  is  a  model  of  a  Chinese  ouilding,  sent  by  the  Emperor  of  China 
to  Josephine,  wife  of  Kapoleon,  but  captured  by  the  British.  —  Room  XIX. 
Chinese  bronzes  and  coloured  porcelain.  —  Room  XX.  Lacquer  work. 
Chinese  enamels  on  copper,  including  a  staff  with  a  Runic  inscription 


TUWett  Etid.     31.  SOUTH  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM.       365 

(1st  ca«e  on  the  left).  Caryings  in  wood,  ivory,  etc.  Japanese  arms  and 
armonr.  Japanese  lacquered  screens.  —  Room  XXI.  Old  Chinese  lacquered 
screens:  Japanese  sedan-chair;  Japanese  cabinet  adorned  with  coloured 
straw ;  Chinese  lantern  of  carved  wood ;  model  of  Japanese  pagoda ;  Japanese 
domestic  shrine;  lacquered  chest,  formerly  the  property  of  Napoleon  I.  — 
Boom  XXIL  Carvings  in  wood  and  ivory;  lacquer.  Historicu  collection 
of  *  Japanese  pottery,  formed  by  the  Japanese  government.  —  Room  XXIII. 
^Japanese  Collection  of  bronzes,  textile  fabrics,  and  enamels.  To  the  left 
of  the  entrance,  large  bronze  bell.  Bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Eato  Eiyo- 
masa.  *Eagle  in  hammered  iron,  with  extended  wings,  admirably  executed 
by  a  Japanese  metal-worker  of  the  16th  cent.,  named  Hiyochin  Mun^aru 
(purchased  for  1000'.).  Opposite  is  an  elaborate  modern  incense-burner, 
with  peacocks  and  other  birds.  At  the  top  of  the  steps  at  the  end  of  the 
room  is  a  colossal  bronze  figure  of  a  *Bodhisattva,  or  sacred  being  destined 
to  become  a  Buddha.  

At  the  end  of  the  Oioss  Gallery  yre  reach  the  Westbrn  Galle&ies, 
containing  the  Collections  of  Scientific  Apparatus  used  in  Education 
and  Research^  comprising  much  that  is  of  great  value  and  interest 
to  students.  In  the  first  two  rooms  is  the  Biological  Section,  in- 
cluding a  copy  of  the  first  compoind  microscope  (ca.  1690),  various 
recording  Instruments,  models  illustrating  the  structures  of  flowers, 
models  of  organs  of  the  human  body,  and  models  of  vertebrate  and 
Invertebrate  animals.  —  Next  follows  the  Metallurgical  Section, 
comprising  a  collection  of  metallic  elements  bequeathed  by  Prince 
Luclen  Bonaparte.  Beyond  this  are  the  Chemical  Section,  containing 
Graham's  diffusion  apparatus  and  copies  of  MolEsans  fluorine  ap- 
paratus and  Oailletet's  liquefaction  of  oxygen  apparatus,  and  the 
Mathematiectl  Section,  in  which  are  Babbage's  calculating  machines. 
—  We  then  descend  the  staircase,  on  the  walls  of  which  are  speci- 
mens, drawings,  etc.  of  Injurious  Inucts  and  the  damage  they  cause. 
In  the  well  of  the  staircase  hangs  a  Foucault  pendulum  for  demon- 
strating the  rotation  of  the  eaith ;  and  in  the  vestibule  at  the  foot 
may  be  seen  the  standard  weights  and  measures  of  Great  Britain;  the 
dock  of  Glastonbury  Abbey,  constructed  by  one  of  the  monks  in 
1325,  and  shoving  the  phases  of  the  moon ;  Dover  striking  clock  of 
1348;  dock  with  stone  weights,  from  Aymestry  Church,  Hereford- 
shire. —  In  the  Lower  Gallery  are  the  Clocks  and  Chronometers,  and 
the  Astronomical,  the  Fhysiographical,  the  Meteorological,  and  the 
Oeologieal  Sections, 

On  emerging  from  this  division  of  the  Museum  and  crossing 
Imperial  Institate  Road  we  find  ourselves  immediately  opposite  an 
entrance  to  the  Southern  Galleries  (p.  361)  and  the  Western  Hall, 
The  latter  now  contains  the  Physics  Section,  in  which  are  the  ap- 
paratus used  by  Joule  in  his  discovery  of  the  mechanical  equivalent 
of  heat,  apparatus  used  by  Kelvin,  Crookes,  and  others,  copies  of 
the  original  air-pump  and  hemispheres  of  Otto  von  Guericke  and  of 
other  apparatus  of  historical  importance,  and  the  historical  series 
of  phatographic  apparatus. 


366  31  BELGftAVIA.  TheWesttJnd. 

The  lofty  building  to  the  E.  of  South  Kensington  Museum  is 
the  Roman  Catholic  ChurolL  of  the  Oratory  (see  p.  71),  the  finest 
modern  example  in  London  of  the  style  of  the  Italian  ReuaisBance, 
designed  by  H,  OribbU.  The  chuich,  begun  in  1880,  was  opened, 
in  1884 ;  the  facade  was  completed  in  1897.  In  front  of  the  W. 
wing,  known  as  the  ^Little  Oratory',  is  a  Statue  of  Cardinal  Newman 
(1801-90),  by  Bodley  and  Garner,  unveiled  in  1896.  Cardinal 
Newman  introduced  the  Oiatory  into  England  in  1847.  The  church 
is  open  for  inspection  except  on  Sat.  and  during  divine  service 
(closed  12.30-2.30  p.m.). 

The  interior  is  remarkable  for  its  lofty  marble  pilasters  and  the  domed 
ceiling  of  concrete  vaulting.  On  the  walls  of  the  nave  (which  is  10  ft.  wider 
than  the  nave  of  St.  Paul's)  are  statues  of  the  Apostles,  by  Maszotti  (17th  cent.>, 
originally  in  Siena  Cathedral.  The  chapels  are  embellished  with  rich 
coloured  marbles  and  carvings.  In  the  Lady  Chapel  are  a  superb  altar  and 
reredos,  inlaid  with  precious  stones,  brought  from  Brescia.  The  altar  in 
the  Chapel  nf  St.  Wilfrid  (to  the  right  of  the  sanctuary)  was  brouf;ht  from 
the  Groote  Kerke  at  Maestricht.  The  W.  bay  in  this  chapel  contains  a  re- 
production of  Maderna's  figure  of  St.  Cecilia,  in  her  church  at  Rome«  The 
choir-stalls  are  beautifully  carved  in  Italian  walnut,  the  floor  of  the  sanctuary 
is  of  rich  marquetry,  and  the  altar- rail  is  formed  of  gicUlo  antko  marble. 
The  two  seven-branched  candlesticks  of  gilt  bronze  are  accurate  copies  of 
the  Jewish  one  on  the  Arch  of  Titus. . 

32.  Belgravia.  Chelsea. 

Chelsea  Hospital.   Royal  Military  Asylum.    Carlyl^s  House, 

The  southern  portion  of  the  West  End,  commonly  known  as 
Belgravia»  and  bounded  by  Hyde  Park,  the  Green  Park,  Sloane 
Street,  and  Pimlico,  consists  of  a  number  of  handsome  streets 
and  squares  (Belgrave  Square^  Eaton  Squate,  Orosvenor  PlaeCy 
etc.),  all  of  which  have  sprung  up  vnthin  the  last  few  decades.  It 
deriyes  its  general  name  from  Belgrave  Square,  the  centre  of  West 
End  pride  and  fashion.  Like  Tyburniaj  to  the  N.,  and  May  fair  ^  to 
the  £.,  of  Hyde  Park,  it  is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  quarters  of 
the  town.  At  Pimlico  on  the  S.E.  stands  Victoria  Stationy  the  ex- 
tensiye  West  End  terminus  of  the  South  Eastern  and  Chatham 
Railway,  and  of  the  London  and  Brighton  Railway  (p.  27),  recently 
enlarged  and  improved  at  a  cost  of  1,000,000^.  From  this  point 
Victoria  Street  (p.  249),  opened  up  about  1851  through  a  wilderness 
of  purlieus,  leads  N.E.  to  Westminster ;  Vauxhall  Bridge  Road  S.E. 
to  Vauxhall  Bridge;  Buckingham  Palace  Road  and  Commercial 
Road  S.W.  to  Chelsea  Bridge  and  Battersea  Park  (p.  383). 

In  Buckingham  Palace  Road,  opposite  Victoria  Station,  is  the  National 
School  of  Cookery  (PI.  G,  21,  IV;  on  view  2-4),  an  institution  for  teaching 
the  economical  preparation  of  articles  of  food  suitable  to  smaller  house- 
holds, and  for  training  teachers  for  branch  cookery-schools,  of  which  there 
are  now  many  in  London  and  other  towns. 

St.  Peter's  (PI.  R,  17;  /T),  Eaton  Square,  is  a  favourite  church  for 
fashionable  marriages. 

Chelsea,  now  a  suburb  of  London,  lies  on  the  N.  bank  of  the 
Thames,  to  the  W.  of  Chelsea  or  Victoria,  Suspension  Bridge  (PI. 


TheWestEnd.  31  CHELSEA.  367 

G,  18),  whiclk  was  built  in  1858  and  leads  to  the  £.  end  of  Batteisea 
Park  (p.  383).  Fox  many  ages  before  it  was  swallowed  up,  Chelsea 
was  a  country  village,  like  Kensington,  with  many  distinguished 
residents.  It  appears  in  Domesday  Book  as  Chelehcd^  i.e.  ^chalk 
hythe\  or  wharf;  but  the  name  has  also  been  derived  from  chesl  (Ger. 
Kitaet)^  meaning  gravel,  and  eye,  an  island. 

Skirting  the  Thames  between  the  suspension-bridge  and  Bat~ 
tersea  Bridge  (PI.  G,  10,  11;  opejied  in  1891)  is  the  Clielaca  Em- 
bankment (opened  in  1873),  which  passes  the  Albert  Suspension 
Bridge  (central  span,  450  ft.)  and  ends,  beyond  Battersea  Bridge, 
near  the  site  of  Cremorne  Oardens^  so  named  from  an  early  owner, 
Lord  Cremorne,  and  formerly  a  very  popular  place  of  recreation, 
but  closed  in  1877  and  now  covered  with  buildings. 

The  E.  end  of  Chelsea  Embankment  skirts  the  grounds  of  Cheliea 
Hospital  (PI.  G,  18,  14),  an  institution  for  old  and  invalid  soldiers, 
begun  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.  by  Wren^  on  the  site  of  a  theological 
college(the  name  ^college^  being  sometimes  still  applied  to  the  build- 
ing), but  not  completed  till  the  time  of  William  and  Mary.  The 
hospital,  consisting  of  a  central  structure  flanked  by  two  wings,  and 
faeing  the  river,  accommodates  558  in-pensioners.  The  establish- 
ment is  chiefly  supported  by  a  grant  from  Parliament.  The  annual 
expenses  are  about  28,000^.  The  in -pensioners  are  selected  from 
about  80,000  old  soldiers  (out-pensioners),  whose  pensions  (varying 
from  11/2(2.  to  5«.  a  day)  have  leen  flxed  by  the  Commissioners  of 
Chelsea  Hospital,  the  expense  being  met  by  parliamentary  vote. 

The  centre  of  the  quadrangle  in  front  of  the  hospital  is  occu- 
pied by  a  bronze  statue  of  Charles  II.,  by  Chrinling  Qibbons.  The 
hospital  (small  fee  to  pensioner  who  acts  as  cicerone)  contains  a 
chapel  with  numerous  flags^  13  French  eagles,  and  an  altar-piece 
representing  the  Ascension  of  Christ;  the  ceiling  above  the  latter  is  by 
Seb.Bieci.  In  thedining-hall  are  an  equestrian  portrait  of  Charles  II., 
by  VerriOy  a  painting  of  the  Battle  of  Waterloo,  by  O.  Jones^  por- 
traits of  British  generals,  and  trophies  of  arms  and  armour  of  the 
17th  century.  Visitors  may  attend  the  services  in  the  chapel  on 
Sun.,  at  11  a.  m.  and  6.30  p.m.  The  gardens  are  open  to  the  public. 

To  the  N.  of  the  hospital  lies  the  Duke  of  York's  Kilitary 
School  (PI.  Q,  13,  17),  or  Royal  MUitary  Asylum,  founded  in  1801 
by  the  Duke  of  York,  in  which  about  550  sous  of  soldiers  are  an- 
nually maintained  and  educated.  The  building  has  a  Doric  portico. 
The  school,  about  to  be  transferred  to  Dover,  may  be  visited  only 
by  the  permission  of  the  commandant.  —  In  Chelsea  Bridge  Road, 
near  the  hospital,  are  the  largest  and  finest  of  all  the  Barracks  (PL 
G,  17, 18)  for  the  Foot  Guards,  with  accommodation  for  1000  men. 

To  the  8.E.,  on  part  of  the  ornamental  grounds  of  Chelsea  Hospital, 
there  stood  in  the  reigns  of  George  II.  and  George  III.  a  place  of  amuse- 
ment  named  the  Ranelagh,  which  was  famous  beyond  any  other  place 
in  London  as  the  centre  of  the  wildest  and  showiest  gaiety.  Banquets, 
masquerades,  fdtes,  etc.,  were  celebrated  here  in  the  most  extravagant  style. 


368  32.  CHELSEA.  TheWestEnd. 

Kings  and  ambassadors,  statesmen  and  literati,  eonrt  beauties,  ladies  of 
fashion,  and  the  demi-monde  met  and  mingled  at  the  Banelagh  as  they 
now  meet  nowhere  in  the  Metropolis.  Its  principal  building,  the  ^Botanda\ 
185  ft.  in  diameter,  not  unlike  the  present  Albert  Hall  in  external  ap- 
pearance, was  erected  in  1740,  by  William  Jones.  Horace  Walpole  de- 
scribes it  as  'a  vast  amphitheatre,  finely  gilt,  painted,  and  illuminated, 
into  which  everybody  that  loves  eating,  drinking,  staring,  or  crowding  is 
admitted  for  twelve  pence'.  This  haunt  of  pleasure-seekers  was  closed 
in  1805,  and  every  trace  of  it  has  long  been  obliterated. 

To  the  S.W.  of  the  hoepital,  adjoining  the  Embankment,  lies 
the  Chelsea  Botanic  Qardtn,  presented  by  Sir  Ham  Sloant  to  the 
Society  of  Apothecaries,  on  condition  that  50  new  Tarieties  of  plants 
grown  in  it  should  be  annually  furnished  to  the  Royal  Society, 
until  the  number  so  presented  amounted  to  2000.  It  was  famed  for 
its  fine  cedars,  of  which  one  survived  until  1904.  In  the  middle  is 
a  statue  of  Sloane,  by  Rysbrach.  The  garden  is  now  under  the 
care  of  the  Trustees  of  the  London  Parochial  Charities. 

To  the  W.  of  this  point  the  Embankment  passes  Cktyfye  WaXk 
(PI.  G,  10,  14),  a  row  of  red-brick  Queen  Anne  or  Georgian  houses, 
with  wrought-iron  gates.  Maclise  (d.  1870),  the  painter,  lived  at 
No.  4,  which  afterwards  became  the  home  of  George  Eliot  (Mrs.  Cross), 
who  died  here  in  1880.  CountD'Orsay  lived  at  No.  10.  No.  16,  known 
as  the  Queen'8  Hou»e  and  associated  with  Queen  Catherine  of  Bra- 
ganza,  was  the  home  of  Dante  G.  Bossetti  (d.  1882);  and  a  bust  of 
the  painter  and  poet,  by  Ford  Madoz  Brown,  has  been  placed  in  the 
Embankment  Gardens  in  front  of  it.  No.  18  was  Don  SdUeto^B^  a 
coffee-house  and  museum  opened  in  1695  by  a  barber  named  Salter 
and  often  mentioned  by  Swift,  Steele,  and  other  contemporary 
writers.  The  houses  between  this  and  Oakley  Street  occupy  the  site 
of  Henry  VIIL's  Manor  House^  where  Katherine  Parr  li^ed  with  her 
second  husband,  Thomas  Seymour,  and  the  Princess,  afterwards 
Queen,  Elizabeth.  Sir  Hans  Sloane  also  lived  at  the  historic  manor 
house  and  made  the  collection  which  formed  the  beginning  of  the 
British  Museum  (see  p.  291).  His  name  is  commemorated  in  Sloane 
Street,  Sloane  Square,  etc. 

A  little  farther  to  the  W.,  opposite  Cheyne  Row  (PL  G,  14), 
which  runs  to  the  N.  from  Cheyne  Walk,  is  a  Statue  of  Thomas 
Carlyle^  by  Boehm.  At  No.  24  (formerly  No.  5)  Cheyne  Row  is 
*CaTlyle*B  House,  the  unpretending  residence  of  Thomas  Carlyle, 
the  'Sage  of  Chelsea',  from  1834  till  his  death  In  1881.  It  is  now 
fitted  up  as  a  memorial  museum  (open  from  10  till  sunset;  adm.  is,, 
Sat.  6d.,  parties  of  ten  6d.  each). 

The  Dining  Room  and  Bcuk  Dining  Room,  on  the  gronndfloor,  contain 
a  few  pieces  of  furniture  that  belonged  to  Carlyle,  a  bookcase  full  of  his 
books,  and  a  case  containing  fragments  of  his  writing  and  other  relics.  — 
In  the  Drawing  Room^  on  the  first  floor,  are  other  pieces  of  furniture  and 
a  case  containing  mementoes  of  Garlyle's  intercourse  with  celebrated  per- 
sona such  as  Goethe,  Bismarck,  and  the  Emp.  Frederick  of  Germany,  the 
Pruisian  Order  of  Merit  given  to  Carlyle.  notes  from  Carlyle  to  his  wife, 
Disraeli's  offer  of  a  baronetcy  and  Carlyle's  reply,  etc.  On  the  walls  are 
several  portraits  of  Mrs.  Carlyle,  and  adjacent  is  her  Bedroom,  —  On  the 


UeWestEiid.  32.  CHELSEA.  369 

second  floor  are  CarlpWi  Bedroom  and  the  Spare  Room^  in  which  Emerson 
slept.  —  At  the  top  of  the  house  is  the  famous  Studp^  double- walled  for 
the  exclusion  of  sound.  Here  'Frederick  the  Grear  was  written.  It  contains 
many  interesting  personal  relics.  —  Visitors  are  shown  also  the  basement 
KUchm,  in  which  Garlyle  and  Tennyson  used  to  smoke,  and  the  tiny  Otarden. 
—  Comp.  ^he  Garlyles'  Ohelsea  Home\  by  Reginald  Bhint  (illus.;  1886). 
Leigh  Hunt  liyed  at  Ko.  10  Upper  Gheyne  Row.  At  the  comer  of 
Upper  Cheyne  Bow  and  Oakley  Street  lingers  the  last  bit  of  the  old  garden 
of  Dr.  Phentf,  filled  with  curious  odds  and  ends,  including  an  exact  copy  in 
miniature  of  the  Great  Snake  Hound  of  Ohio  (see  Baedeker'' i  United  Btatee).  ~- 
The  manufacture  of  Ohelsea  china  was  carried  on  about  1746  in  a  pottery 
in  Lawrence  Street,  the  first  parallel  street  to  the  W.  of  Gheyne  Bow. 

Hard  by,  at  the  corner  of  Gheyne  Walk  and  Ghnrch  Street,  standB 
^Cheliaa  Old  Clmrcli  {St.  Luke's;  PI.  G,  10),  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting^  churches  in  London.  It  was  originally  built  In  the  reign 
of  Edward  II.  (1307-27) ,  but  in  its  present  form  dates  mainly 
from  about  1660,  though  some  older  work  remains  in  the  chancel 
and  its  side-chapels.  Among  the  numerous  monuments  it  contains 
are  those  of  Lord  Bray  and  his  son  (1539) ;  several  of  the  Lawrence 
family,  the  *Hillyars'  of  H.  Elngsley*s  interesting  norel  *The 
Hillyars  and  the  Burtons*  (see  recent  edition,  with  a  note  on  Chelsea 
Old  Ohurch  by  Olement  Shorter);  the  sumptuous  monument  of 
Lord  and  Lady  Dacre  (1594-96);  the  Duchess  of  Northumberland 
(d.  1555 ;  mother-in-law  of  Lady  Jane  Grey  and  grandmother  of 
Sir  Philip  Sidney) ;  Sir  Arthur  Gorges  (1625),  the  friend  of  Spenser; 
Sir  Robert  Stanley  (d.  1632) ;  and  Lady  Jane  Gheyne  (d.  1669),  a  large 
monument  by  Bernini,  the  only  work  now  remidning  that  he  did  for 
England.  Sir  Thomas  More  built  the  chapel  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
chancel,  and  erected  a  monument  to  himself,  which  is  now  in  the 
chanceL  In  all  probability  his  remains  are  in  this  church,  except  his 
head,  which  is  at  Canterbury  (see  Baedeker's  Oreat  Britain),  In  the 
churchyard  is  the  monument  of  Sir  Hans  Sloane  (d.  1758;  see 
p.  368).  In  the  church  or  churchyard  are  also  burled,  though  their 
monuments  have  disappeared,  Shadwell,  poet  laureate  (d.  1692), 
Henry  Sampson  Woodfall,  printer  of  the  celebrated  Letters  of  Junius 
(d.  1805),  and  John  Cavalier,  the  Huguenot  leader  (d.  1740).  In 
the  church  are  the  ^Vinegar  Bible',  Foxe's  Book  of  Martyrs  (2  vols.), 
and  two  other  books,  chained  to  a  desk.  The  church  Is  shown  on 
application  to  Mr.  E.  West^  35  Danvers  Street. 

This  old  church  ceased  to  be  the  parish-church  of  Chelsea  in  1824. 
The  new  church,  also  dedicated  to  St.  Luke,  is  a  large  building  of  1820-24, 
in  Sydney  Street  (PI.  G,  13).  — •  In  Church  Street  is  the  old  Rectory^  for 
several  years  the  home  of  Charles,  Gteorge,  and  Henry  Eingsley,  whose 
father  was  rector  of  Chelsea. 

Joseph  Turner,  the  landscape-painter,  died  in  1851  In  lodgings 
near  the  extreme  W.  end  of  Gheyne  Walk  (No.  119),  in  a  house 
now  marked  by  a  leaden  tablet  designed  by  Walter  Crane. 

The  Public  lAbraxry^  in  Manresa  Boad  (Pl.~  G,  10),  contains  a 
collection  of  Keats  reHcs,  presented  by  Sir  Charles  Dilke,  a  valuable 
series  of  Chelsea  prints  and  sketches,  busts  of  Garlyle  and  Leigh  Hunt, 
a  statuette  of  Sir  Thomas  More,  and  other  eihibits  of  local  interest. 

Bakdbkbs's  London.    16th  Edit.  24 


370  33.  HAMPSTEAD.         N.W.  Suburbs. 

The  pMt  Mfociattona  of  Chelsea  are  fall  of  intereat  and  have  barely 
been  touched  upon  above.  Sir  Thomaa  More  resided  in  Chelsea,  in  a 
house  afkerwards  named  Beaufort  JSowe^  the  site  of  which  is  marked  by 
Beaufort  Street  (PI.  O,  10).  Here  he  was  often  visited  by  Henry  VIU., 
Holbein,  and  (probably)  Erasmus.  The  old  Mwtnian  Burial  Groimdj  in 
Milman's  St.,  with  the  grave  of  Count  Zinxendorf  (d.  1760),  occupies  part  of 
the  site  of  More's  garden.  It  has  been  proposed  to  re-erect  the  remains  of 
Crosbp  Hall  fp.  117j  on  another  part  of  More  s  garden,  on  the  Embankment. 
The  adjoining  Dimvers  Street  marks  the  site  of  Dcmver*  Houses  the  home 
of  the  witty  and  hospitable  Lady  Danvers,  the  friend  of  Dr.  Donne  and 
Francis  Bacon.  Hard  by  is  Undiep  Scute,  now  divided  into  five,  once 
occupied  by  Brunei  and  Bramah.  Bishop  Atterbury,  Dean  Swift,  mbA 
Dr.  Arbuthnot  all  resided  in  Church  Street.  Sir  Bichard  Steele  resided 
not  far  off.  Mrs.  Somerville  lived  at  Chelsea  Hospital,  where  her  husband 
was  physician.  Walpole  House  occupied  the  site  of  the  W.  wfng  of  the 
Hospital,  and  Ward  7  of  the  infirmary  was  its  dining-room  (1723-46).  Sir 
Bobert  Walpole  was  visited  here  by  Swift,  Oay,  and  Pope.  The  beautiful 
Duchess  of  Mazarin  ended  her  life  in  a  small  house  in  Chelsea,  where 
she  was  often  visited  by  St.  Evremond.  Lord  Burleigh,  Gay.  Kewton, 
Smollett,  Miss  Milford,  Letitia  Landon  ('L.  E.  L\),  George  Meredith,  Swin- 
burne, and  Shelley  were  also  among  the  famous  residents  of  Chelsea. 
Prince  Rupert  is  said  to  have  invented  his  *drops*  here.  Addison  occa- 
sionally resided  at  Sandford  Manor  Houee^  Sandy  End  (PI.  G,  7).  Among 
the  other  famous  old  houses  of  Chelsea  were  Shrea^mry  JSouee^  where 
dwelt  *Bess\  Countess  of  Shrewsbury,  who  built  Chatsworth,  Hardwick 
Hall,  and  Oldcotes  (see  Baedeker'e  Great  Britain),  and  Winchester  Eouee^ 
long  the  palace  of  the  Bishops  of  Winchester. 

A  little  to  the  W.  was  Little  Chelsea,  now  West  Brompton,  where 
the  famous  Earl  of  Shaftesbury  of  the  'Characteristics'  resided  in  Shaftes- 
bury House.  This  mansion,  where  Locke,  who  had  been  Lord  Shaftesbury''fl 
tutor,  was  a  guest,  and  where  Addison  wrote  parts  of  the  *Spectator%  has 
been  converted  into  a  workhouse. 

See  'Handbook  to  Chelsea',  by  Reginald  Blunt  (Ulus. ;  1900),  and  *01d 
Chelsea',  by  B.  E,  Martin  (illus.  by  Joseph  Pennell). 


33.    Hampstead.   Highgate.   Alexandra  Palace. 

Both  Hampstead  and  Highgate  are  most  expeditiously  reached  by  means 
of  the  Hampstead  Tube  (p.  36 ;  alternate  trains).  The  former  may  be  visited 
also  by  tramway  (Nos.  1,  9;  p.  21)  or  via  the  North  London  Railway  (p.  37) ; 
the  latter  by  tramway  (Nos.  2,  7,  10, 11, 14, 16;  pp.  21,  22),  or  vii  the  Great 
Northern  Railway  (p.  26).  The  visitor  should  proceed  direct  to  Hampstead 
and  walk  thence  to  Highgate. 

The  Alexandra  Palace  is  reached  by  train  from  Highgate  Station  (p.  26) 
in  10  min.  (tramway  to  the  station  from  the  Archway  Tavern,  p.  373).  The 
Alexandra  Palace  and  Woodgreen  Stations  of  the  G.  N.  R.  are  close  to  the  N. 
and  E.  entrances  respectively ;  frequent  trains  from  Broad  Street,  Moorgate 
Street,  and  King's  Gross  Stations.  Palace  Gates  Station,  on  the  G.  E.  R. 
(from  Liverpool  Street  Station),  lies  a  short  distance  to  the  N.E.  —  Tramway 
from  Finsbury  Park,  see  Nos.  76,  77,  on  p.  24. 

The  two  hills  of  Hampstead  and  Highgate,  occupied  by  the  N.W. 
subnibs  of  London,  are  well  worth  visiting  for  the  extensive  views 
they  command  of  the  Metropolis  and  the  surronnding  country. 

The  village  of  Hampstead  (*home-stead^)  has  been  long  since 
reached  by  the  ever-advancing  suburbs  of  London,  from  which  it 
can  now  scarcely  be  distinguished.  It  is  an  ancient  place,  known 
as  early  as  the  time  of  the  Romans ;  and  various  Roman  antiquities 
have  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  particularly  at  the  mineral 


N.W.Sulmrh$.    93.  HAMPSTBAD  HEATH.  371 

wells  (see  below).  From  the  tube-statioD,  at  the  top  of  Higli 
Street,  Heath  St.  leads  to  the  S.W.  to  the  picturesque  Church  Row, 
with  the  parlsh-churoh  of  St,  John  which  dates  from  1744  and  with 
its  square  tower  forma  a  conspicuous  object  in  the  view  from  many 
parts  of  London.  The  church  contains  a  bust  of  Keats,  by  Miss 
Anne  Whitney  of  Boston  (U.  S.  A.),  placed  heie  in  1894  by  a  few 
American  admirers  of  the  poet.  In  the  churchyard  are  buried  ^Sftr 
James  Mcu:kintosh  (d.  1832),  Joanna  Bailie(jl.  ^^^^i  niemorial tablet 
in  the  church),  her  sister  Agnes  (d.  1861,  aged  100  years),  Oeorge 
Du  Manner  (d.  1896),  Sir  Walter  Besant  (d.  1901),  and  Constable, 
the  painter  (d.  1837),  who  has  left  many  painted  memorials  of  his 
loTO  for  Hampstead  (see,  e.g.^  his  pictures  of  Hampstead  in  the 
Tate  Gallery,  p.  253,  and  at  South  Kensington,  p.  359).  The  well- 
known  Kit-Gat  Club,  which  numbered  Addison,  Steele,  and  Pope 
among  its  members,  held  its  first  meetings  in  a  tavern  at  Hamp- 
stead. —  Flask  Walk,  diverging  to  the  N.E.  from  High  St.  close  to 
the  station,  is  continued  by  Well  Walk,  named  from  the  wells  which 
were  disocvered  or  re-discovered  about  1620,  and  for  a  time  made 
Hampstead  a  fashionable  spa.  The  site  of  the  old  well-house  is 
now  oceupied  by  a  modern  villa ;  and  the  Assembly  Booms,  in- 
eloding  the  *Long  Boom'  to  which  Miss  Burney's  ^Evelina*  paid  an 
unwilling  visit,  are  now  represented  by  Nos.  7  and  9.  Well  Walk 
contains  also  the  house  in  which  John  Keats  and  his  brother  lodged 
in  1817-18,  and  at  the  bottom  of  John  Street,  near  Hampstead 
Heath  Station,  is  Lawn  Batik  (then  called  Wentworth  Place; 
memorial  tablet),  where  Keats  lived  with  his  friend  Charles  Brown 
in  1818-20.  Part  of  ^Endymiou'  was  written  In  the  first  of  these, 
and  much  of  Keats*s  finest  work,  including  parts  of 'Hyperion*  and 
the  *Eve  of  St.  Agnes',  was  done  at  Lawn  Bank.  At  the  foot  of  Well 
Walk  is  East  Heath  Boad,  skirting  the  East  or  Lower  Heath. 

*  Hampstead  Heath  (440  ft.  above  the  sea-level)  is  one  of 
the  most  open  and  picturesque  spots  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  London,  and  is  a  favourite  and  justly  valued  resort  of 
holiday-makers  and  all  who  appreciate  pure  and  invigorating  air. 
On  public  holidays  it  is  generally  visited  by  25-50,000  Londoners 
and  presents  a  characteristic  scene  of  popular  enjoyment.  The  heath 
is  about  240  acres  in  extent.  Its  wild  and  irregular  beauty,  and 
picturesque  alternations  of  hill  and  hollow,  make  it  a  refreshing 
contrast  to  the  trim  elegance  of  the  Parks.  The  heath  was  once  a 
notorious  haunt  of  highwaymen.  In  1870  it  was  purchased  for  the 
unrestricted  use  of  the  public.  Golder's  Hilly  an  ornamental  estate 
of  36  acres  with  fine  trees,  adjoining  the  heath  on  the  N.E.,  was 
purchased  for  the  public  In  1898.  The  mansion  is  now  used  for 
refreshment-rooms.  Parliament  Hill  (265  acres),  to  the  E.  of  the 
heath  proper,  has  also  been  acquired  for  the  public. 

Near  the  ponds  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  heath,  the  subject  of 
Mr.  Pickwick's  'Speculations  on  the  Source  of  Hampstead  Ponds', 

24* 


372  33.  HAMPSTEAD  HEATH.     N.W.  Sulturhs. 

the  Fleet  Biook  (p.  148)  takes  its  rise.  In  the  middle  of  this  part 
of  the  heath,  to  the  N.,  is  a  cluster  of  houses  known  as  the  Yale  of 
Health.  Leigh  Hunt  long  occupied  a  cottage  here,  on  a  site  now 
supposed  to  be  occupied  by  the  Vale  of  Health  Hotel.  We  now 
ascend  to  the  highest  part  of  the  heath,  marked  by  a  flag-staff,  near 
which  is  ^Jaek  Straw's  Ca»iU:\  an  interesting  old  inn. 

The  ^ViBVtr  from  this  point  is  extensive  and  interesting.  On  the  8.  the 
dome  of  St.  Paurs  and  the  towers  of  Westminster  rise  conspicaonsly  from 
the  dark  masses  of  houses ;  while  beyond  may  be  discerned  the  green  hills 
of  Surrey  and  the  glittering  roof  of  the  Crystal  Palace  at  Sydenham.  The 
varied  prospect  to  the  W.  includes  the  Welsh  Harp  (p.  417),  Harrow-on- 
the-Hill  (p.  420;  distinguishable  by  the  lofty  spire  on  an  isolated  eminence), 
and,  in  clear  weather,  Windsor  Castle  itself.  To  the  K.  lies  a  fertile  and 
well-peopled  tract,  studded  with  numerous  villages  and  houses  and  ex- 
tending to  Highwood  Hill,  Totteridge,  and  Bamet.  To  the  £.,  in  immediate 
proxin^ty,  we  see  the  sister  hill  of  Highgate,  and  in  clear  weather  we  may 
descry  the  reach  of  the  Thames  at  Gravesend. 

The  Judge*'  Waik^  a  terraced  walk  shaded  by  lofty  trees,  a  little  to 
the  S.W.,  is  another  favourite  view-point. 

The  West  Heath  is  smaller  but  more  picturesque  than  the  E. 
Heath.  On  its  N.  margin  is  the  Bull  and  Bush  Inn,  in  the  garden 
of  which  is  a  holly  planted  by  Hogarth,  the  painter.  Lord  Chatham 
(1708-78)  died  at  WildxDOods  (now  called  North  End  Place),  near 
the  Bull  and  Bush,  in  a  room  with  an  oriel  window  on  the  upper 
floor  (N.E.  angle  of  the  housel. 

From  *Jack  Straw's  Castle  we  follow  Heath  or  Spaniards*  Boad, 
leading  to  the  N.E.  to  Highgate.  We  soon  reach,  on  the  left,  the 
^Spaniards'  Inn\  the  gathering-point  of  the  *No  Popery*  rioters  of 
1780,  and  described  by  Dickens  in  'Bamaby  Budge*.  The  stretch 
of  road  between  *Jack  Straw*8  Castle*  and  this  point  is  perhaps  the 
most  open  and  elevated  near  London,  affording  fine  ^ews  to  the 
N.W.  and  S.E.  To  the  left,  just  beyond  the  inn,  is  the  course  of  the 
Hampstead  Golf  Club.  The  road  then  leads  between  Caen  Wood,  with 
its  flue  old  oaks,  on  the  right,  and  Bishop^s  Wood,  on  the  left.  Caen 
Wood,  or  Ken  Wood  House,  was  the  seat  of  the  celebrated  judge,  Lord 
Mansfield,  who  died  here  in  1793.  Bishop*s  Wood  once  formed  part 
of  the  park  of  the  Bishops  of  London.  We  now  follow  Hampstead 
Lane,  passing  the  grounds  of  Caen  Wood  Towers  on  the  right,  and 
reach  Highgate,  To  the  right  diyerges  The  Grove,  in  the  third  house 
in  which,-  to  the  right,  Coleridge  died  in  1834.  A  little  farther  on 
we  reach  Highgate  High  Street,  whence  a  cable-tramway  (p.  22) 
plies  down  Highgate  Hill. 

There  is  also  a  pleasant  path  from  Hampstead  to  Highgate  leading 
past  the  Ponds  and  over  Parliameni  Bill  (p.  371)  to  Highgate  Eoad.  Turning 
here  to  the  left,  we  pass  the  tramway-terminus  (No.  10,  p.  22)  at  the  end 
of  Swain^s  Lane,  and  ascend  West  Hill,  skirting  the  spacious  grounds  of 
Solly  Lodge,  long  the  residence  of  Baroness  Bupdett  Coutts  (d.  1906),  to  the 
Highgate  High  Street  (see  above).  —  Swain's  Lane,  diverging  to  the  right, 
leads  to  Highgate  Cemetery  and  to  the  S.W.  entrance  of  Waterlow  Park 
(see  p.  373). 

Highgate,  which  is  situated  on  a  hill  about  20  ft.  lower  than 
Hampstead  Heath,  is  one  of  the  healthiest  and  most  favourite  sites 


N.  W,  Suburbs.  33.  HIGHGATE.  373 

foi  Tillas  in  the  outskirts  of  London.  The  yiev  vhich  it  commands 
is  similar  in  character  to  that  fromHampstead,  hut  not  so  fine.  The 
new  church,  built  in  the  Gothic  style  in  1833,  is  a  handsome  edifice, 
and,  from  its  situation  j  -very  conspicuous.  The  Hig^hgate  or  North 
London  *  Cemetery ^  lying  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  just  helow  the 
church,  is  Tery  picturesque  and  tastefully  laid  out.  The  catacombs 
are  in  the  Egyptian  style,  -with  cypresses,  and  the  terraces  afford  a  fine 
view.  Michael  Faraday y  the  great  chemist  (d.  1867;  hy  the  E.  wall), 
Lord  Lyndhwat  (d.  1863),  and  Oeorge  Eliot  (d.  1880;  near  the 
Swain's  Lane  entrance  to  the  lower  part  of  the  cemetery)  are  buried 
here.  Samuel  Taylor  Coleridge  (d.  1834)  is  interred  in  a  vault  below 
the  adjacent  Grammar  School,  which,  founded  in  1565,  was  lately 
rebuilt  in  the  French  Gothic  style.  To  the  E.  of  the  upper  part  of 
Highgate  Cemetery  is  *Waterlow  Pofk^  29  acres  in  extent,  presented 
to  the  public  in  1891  by  Sir  Sidney  Waterlow  (d.  1906),  a  statue 
of  whom  (by  F.  M.  Taubman)  was  unveiled  here  in  1900.  The 
main  entrance  of  Waterlow  Park  is  at  the  top  of  Highgate  Hill. 
In  this  park  is  the  quaint  old  Lauderdale  Houae,  once  occupied 
by  Nell  Gwynne,  restored  in  1893  and  now  used  as  refreshment 
rooms. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  Highgate  Hill,  facing  Lauderdale  House, 
is  CromweU  House^  said  to  have  been  built  for  OromwelVs  son-in- 
law.  General  Ireton,  and  now  the  Convalescent  Branch  of  the  Sick 
Children's  Hospital  (p.  276;  visitors  admitted  daily,  2-4).  It  is 
a  plain  red-brick  mansion,  with  a  fine  oak  staircase,  on  the  newel  of 
which  are  small  carved  figures  representing  officers  of  Cromwell's 
army,  etc.  A  little  lower  down  is  St,  Joseph^ s  Retreat^  the  chief 
seat  of  the  Passlonist  Fathers  in  England,  with  a  handsome  church 
opened  in  1891.  The  Whittington  Almshouses  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  were  established  by  the  famous  Lord  Mayor  of  that  name,  and 
are  popularly  supposed  to  occupy  the  very  spot  where  he  heard  the 
bells  inviting  him  to  return.  Close  by  is  the  stone  on  which  he  is 
said  to  have  rested,  now  forming  part  of  a  lamp-post ;  it  is  needless 
to  say  that  its  identity  is  more  than  doubtful. 

The  Highgate  Archway  Tavem,  at  the  foot  of  Highgate  Hill,  is 
an  important  omnibus  and  tramway  terminus  (comp.  p.  24).  Arch- 
way Road,  traversed  by  an  electric  tramway  to  E.  Finchley  and 
Barnet  (No.  75;  p.  24),  leads  thence  to  the  N.  to  (Va  M.)  the  site  of 
Highgate  Archway,  replaced  since  1900  by  a  viaduct -bridge ,  by 
means  of  which  Homsey  Lane  is  carried  across  the  road.  Highgate 
Station  lies  ^2  ^-  farther  on,  near  the  entrance  to  the  Highgate 
Gravel  Pit  Wood,  70  acres  in  extent,  opened  as  a  public  park  in  1886. 

Highgate  used  to  be  notorious  for  a  kind  of  mock  pilgrimage  made 
to  it  for  the  purpose  of  ^swearing  on  the  horns.*  By  the  terms  of  his 
oath  the  pilgrim  was  bonnd  never  to  kiss  the  maid  when  he  could  kiss 
the  mistress,  never  to  drink  small  beer  when  he  could  get  strong,  etc., 
*an]es8  he  liked  it  best\  Some  old  rams*  heads  are  still  preserved  at 
t|ie  ipns.    Byron  aliases  to  t|iis  custom  in  'Childe  Harold*,  Canto  I. 


374  33.  ALEXANDRA  PALACE.    N,W,  Suhurhs, 

Abont  2  M.  off,  on  the  eleyated  ground  to  the  E.  of  Muswell 
Hill  and  N.  of  Homseyy  is  the  Alezftndra  Palace  (p.  49),  an 
estahlishment  resemhllng  the  Crystal  Palace.  A  visit  to  it,  how- 
ever,  will  scarcely  repay  the  ordinary  tourist.  After  a  chequered 
history  of  88  years  as  a  private  speculation,  the  Alexandra  Park 
and  Palace  were  purchased  in  1901  hy  the  Middlesex  County  Council 
and  other  local  bodies,  and  are  now  open  to  the  public,  free,  dally, 
except  on  14  ^maintenance  days'  (usually  Thurs.  in  summer),  when 
the  charge  for  admission  is  6d,  or  is,  (children  half-price).  The 
Palace,  originally  the  exhibition-building  of  the  International  Ex- 
hibition of  1862,  was  burned  down  in  1873,  and  the  present  im- 
posing structure  of  glass  and  iron  dates  from  1875.  It  covers  an  area 
of  7  Vs  Acres,  and  includes  a  Or  eat  Central  Hall;  a  Theatre  (adm. 
Qd.'is.)  with  2700  seats;  a  VarUty  HaU  (2500  seats),  now  used  as  a 
Skating  Rink;  an  Exhibition  HaU  and  several  Exhibition  OallerieB; 
a  Winter  Garden ;  an  Industrial  Hall ;  and  spacious  Dining  and 
Refreshment  Rooms,  The  Great  Hall,  which  can  seat  12,000  spec- 
tators besides  a  chorus  of  2000,  contains  a  powerful  organ  (re- 
citals every  afternoon),  and  is  adorned  with  coloured  statues  of 
English  sovereigns  and  with  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  principal 
British  towns.  Concerts,  loan  exhibitioiis  of  paintings  and  other 
works  of  art,  flower-shows,  etc.,  are  held  from  time  to  time.  The 
Park  (165  acres)  is  prettily  laid  out,  with  a  fine  grove  of  trees  in 
the  N.E.  portion,  and  commands  beautiful  views.  It  contains  a 
cycling-track,  open-air  swimming-baths,  a  boating-lake  (boat  6d. 
per  hour),  a  switchback  railway  (3d.),  etc.  The  Alexandra  Park 
Race  Course,  adjoining,  is  leased  to  a  private  company. 


III.  THE  SUREEY  SIDE. 


34.  St.  Savionr's  Church. 

Ouy*a  Ho8pital,   Barclay  and  Perkins's  Brewery.    Camberwell, 

The  *  Surrey  Side*  of  tbe  Metropolis,  with  a  population  of  over 
750,000  souls,  has  in  some  respects  a  character  of  its  own.  It  is  t 
scene  of  great  business  life  and  hustle  from  Lambeth  to  Bermondsey, 
but  its  sights,  institutions,  and  public  buildings  are  few.  South- 
work,  or  that  part  of  it  immediately  opposite  the  City,  ttom  London 
Bridge  to  Charing  Cross,  is  known  as  ^the  Borough',  a  name  which 
it  rightly  enjoys  over  the  heads  of  such  newly  created  boroughs  as 
Greenwich  or  the  Tower  Hamlets,  seeing  it  has  returned  two  mem- 
bers to  Parliament  for  more  than  500  years.  We  note  a  few  of  its 
objects  of  interest. 

Mention  must  be  made,  in  the  first  place,  of  *St.  Sayiour's  Church 
(PI.  B,,38,  III;  open  all  day),  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  London, 
situated  opposite  the  London  Bridge  Station,  immediately  to  the  W. 
of  thie  S.  end  of  London  Bridge.  The  original  Norman  nave,  of  which 
fragments  still  remain,  was  built  in  1106  by  Gifford,Bi8hop  of  Win- 
chester, as  the  church  of  the  then  established  Priory  of  St.  Mary 
Overy.  Peter  de  Rupibus,  another  Bishop  of  Winchester,  built  the 
choir  and  Lady  Chapel  in  1207,  and  altered  the  character  of  the  nave, 
which  had  been  damaged  by  fire,  f^om  Norman  to  Early  English. 
The  building  was  converted  into  a  parish-church  by  Henry  VIII. 
in  1540.  The  interesting  choir,  transepts,  and  Lady  Chapel  of  Peter 
de  Rupibus  still  survive ;  the  choir  and  Lady  Chapel  were  restored 
in  1822,  1832-34,  and  1896.  The  nave  was  taken  down  in  1838, 
and  replaced  by  an  incongruous  new  structure,  which  was  in  turn 
removed  to  make  way  for  a  fine  new  nave,  in  the  13th  cent,  style, 
built  in  1890-96  by  Blomfield,  Above  the  cross  is  a  quadrangular 
tower,  flanked  by  pinnacles.  After  extensive  restorations  St.  Saviour's 
was  opened  as  a  collegiate  church  in  Feb.,  1897,  and  in  1905  be- 
came the  cathedral  of  the  Bishop  of  Southwark.  —  The  entrance  is 
by  the  S.W.  door  in  the  nave. 

Interior.  Though  the  interior  at  present  prodaces  a  first  impression 
of  newness,  a  tribute  must  be  paid  to  the  unusual  congruity  with  which 
the  dignified  modem  I^avb  has  been  adapted  to  the  earlier  work.  The 
fine  old  Korman  doorway  and  the  recess  at  the  W.  end  of  tbe  24*.  wall  are 
relics  of  the  original  nave.  The  large  W.  window  (by  Henry  Holiday; 
1893),  representing  Christ  as  Creator  of  the  world,  is  flanked  by  windows 
with  figures  of  SS.  S within  and  Paulinus  (S.)  and  St.  Augustine  (N.).  Below 
are  some  fragments  of  Early  English  arcading.  The  other  windows  of  the 
nave  commemorate  illustrioas  men  connected  with  the  church  or  with 
Southwark.  In  the  X.  wall,  from  W.  to  E.,  are  memorial  windows  to 
Henrff  Sacheverell  iH,  1124),  once  chaplain  of  8t.  Saviour's,  Alex.  Oruderi 


376  34.    ST.  SAVIOUR'S  CHURCH.     The  Surrey  Side. 

(d.  1770;  p.  273),  John  Bunyan  (d.  1688;  p.  378),  and  Geoffrep  Chaucer  (d.  1400 1 
p.  378).  Ollyer  Ooldsmith  and  Dr.  Johnson  are  also  to  be  commemorated 
here.  Near  the  £.  end  of  this  wall  is  the  monument  of  the  poet  John  Oower 
(1SSI6>140(2),  the  friend  of  Chancer.  It  consists  of  a  sarcophagus  with  a  re- 
cumbent marble  figure  of  the  poet  (repainted  in  1832),  whose  head  rests 
upon  his  three  principal  works,  the  JSpecukun  msdiiantis.  Vox  clemanUtf  and 
Co^fettio  amantiSy  while  his  feet  are  supported  by  a  lion.  The  windows 
in  the  S.  wall,  from  E.  to  W.,  commemorate  William  3hak$pear9  (see  bdow), 
Philip  Mauinger  (d.  1639),  John  Fletcher  (d.  1625),  Fronde  Beaumont  (d.  1616), 
and  Edward  Alleyn  (p.  378),  once  churchwarden  of  the  parish.  The  chan- 
delier hanging  below  the  tower  was  presented  in  1680.  —  The  large  window 
in  the  S.  Tbansept  was  restored  and  filled  with  stained  glass  (Tree  of 
Jesse)  at  the  expense  of  Sir  Fred.  Wigan.  On  the  wall  opposite  the  door 
is  a  monument  to  WUUam  Emerton  (1483-1575),  *who  lived  and  died  an 
honest  man\  and  is  believed  to  have  belonged  to  the  same  stock  as  Ralph 
Waldo  Emerson.  The  windows  above  commemorate  Elisabeth  Newcomen 
(d.  1675),  a  benefactor  of  the  parish,  and  Henry  Woodt  who  was  Warden 
of  the  Great  Account.  On  the  pillar  immediately  to  the  N.  of  the  door 
in  this  transept  are  carved  the  arms  and  hat  of  Cardinal  Beawfort  (son 
of  John  of  Oaunt),  a  benefactor  of  the  church.  —  The  N.  Tbanskpt  has  a 
memorial  window  to  the  late  Prince  Consort  (by  Eempe ;  unveiled  in  1898), 
bearing  figures  of  Oregory  the  Great,  King  Ethelbert,  Archbp.  Stephen 
Langton,  andWilliam  of  Wykeham.  The  aumbry,  the  stone  coffin  (12th  cent.) 
belov;  it,  the  carved  oaken  bosses  from  the  former  roof,  and  the  fine 
muniment  chest  should  be  noticed.  On  the  N.  wall  is  the  effigy  and  tomb 
of  Loekyer  (d.  1672),  a  famous  quack  (^his  pills  embalm  him  safe').  —  To 
the  W.  of  this  transept  is  the  Habvakd  Mxmosial  Chapel,  with  a  stained 
glass  window  (by  La  Farge,  1905),  commemorating  John  Harvard^  founder 
of  Harvard  College,  Cambridge,  Mass.,  who  was  baptized  at  St.  Saviour's  on 
29th  Kov.,  1607.  His  parents  kept  the  'Old  (Queen's  Head'  in  South wark.  — 
The  AUar  Screen  in  the  Choib  was  erected  by  Fox,  Bishop  of  Winchester, 
in  the  early  years  of  the  16th  century.  In  the  N.  choir-aisle  are  the 
painted  tomb,  with  effigies,  of  John  Treheamet  gentleman  -  porter  to 
James  I.,  and  the  recumbent  wooden  figure  of  a  Ormader  (ISth  cent.). 
Opposite  the  latter  is  the  canopied  tomb  of  Alderman  Hwnbley  on  which 
some  good  verses  are  inscribed.  —  The  beautiful  •Lady  Chapel,  now 
used  as  the  parish  church,  is  flanked  with  aisles  and  contains  the  monument 
of  Lancelot  Andrewee^  Bishop  of  Winchester  (d.  1625).  The  trials  of  the  re- 
puted heretics  under  Queen  Mary  in  1555  took  place  in  this  chapel.  The 
martyrs  are  commemorated  by  stained-glass  windows.  In  the  K.E.  bay, 
above  the  bench  of  the  old  Consistorial  Court,  is  a  window  in  honour  of 
St.  Thomas  h  Becket,  Charles  I.,  and  Archbp.  Laud.  In  the  8.  choir- 
aisle  are  a  memorial  window  to  George  Gwilt  (d.  1856),  the  architect,  and 
a  slab  in  memory  of  Abraham  NewUmd  (1730-1807),  long  chief-cashier  of 
the  Bank  of  England.  In  the  pavement  at  the  W.  end  of  the  aisle  are 
some  Roman  tesserse,  found  in  the  churchyard,  and  on  the  pillar  to  the 
K.  is  a  brass  (1652),  with  a  quaint  inscription. 

Among  those  who  are  buried  in  St.  Saviour's  without  monuments 
are  Sir  Eduard  Dyer  (d.  1607),  the  poet,  Maseinger  and  Fletcher^  the  dra- 
matists, Edmund  Shaktpeare  (d.  1607,  aged  27),  a  player,  brother  of  the 
poet,  and  Lawrence  Fletcher^  who  was  a  lessee,  along  with  Shakspeare  and 
Burbage,  of  the  Globe  and  Blackfriars  Theatres.  —  James  I.  of  Scotland 
and  Joanna  Beaufort  were  married  in  this  church  in  1425.  Comp.  History 
and  Antiquities  of  the  Cathedral  Church  of  St.  Saviour,  by  Canon  Thompson. 

On  tlie  river,  near  St.  Savloar^s,  once  stood  Wineheiter  Houte^ 
the  residence  of  the  Bishops  of  Winchester,  whose  diocese  Inclnded 
South  London  until  1877,  when  the  latter  was  transferred  to  the 
diocese  of  Rochester.  —  To  the  S.  W.  of  the  church  lies  the  Borough 
Market  (p.  63),  reached  also  by  streets  dlTerging  to  the  W.  from 
the  Borough  High  Street. 


The  Surrey  8id€.    34.  BAROLATS  BREWBBY.  377 

The  Bozoagh  High  Street  luns  to  the  S.  from  London  Bridge. 
Thomu  Street,  diverging  to  the  left  (E.)  near  the  N.  end  of  Borough 
High  Street,  leadi  to  GKiy'i  Hoipital  (PI.  B,  42),  founded  in  1721 
hy  Gay,  the  bookseller,  who  had  amassed  an  immense  fortune  by 
speculation  in  South  Sea  stock.  The  institution  contains  500  beds 
and  relloTes  5000  in-patients  and  70,000  out-patients  annually.  It 
includes  a  residential  college  for  50  students  and  a  dental  school. 
The  yearly  income  of  the  hospital  is  about  31,000^.  The  court 
contains  a  brazen,  and  the  chapel  a  marble  statue  of  the  founder 
(d.  1724),  the  latter  by  Bacon.  Sir  Astley  Cooper,  the  celebrated 
surgeon,  to  whom  a  monument  has  been  erected  in  St.  Paul's  (see 
p.  91),  is  buried  here.  John  Keats  was  a  student  at  Guy's,  and 
the  Bey.  F.  D.  Maurice  was  chaplain  here  from  1836  to  1846. 

Southwark  Street,  which  diverges  to  the  right  (W.)  from  Bo- 
rough High  Street  a  little  farther  on,  leads  to  Southwark  Bridge  and 
Blackfriars  Bridge.  Redcross  Street,  which  intersects  Southwark 
Street,  leads  on  the  left  to  Redcross  Hall,  with  paintings  commem- 
orating deeds  of  heroism  in  humble  life ,  and  on  the  right  to  Park 
Street,  in  which  is  situated  Barday,  PerldiiB»  and  Co.'i  Brewery 
(Pi.  B,  38;  Ilfjj  partly  on  the  former  site  of  the  Olohe  Theatre, 
This  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  establishments  of  the  kind  in 
London,  and  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  on  account  both  of  its  great 
size  and  its  admirable  arrangements.  It  was  founded  more  than 
200  years  ago. 

The  brewery  covers  an  area  of  about  14  acres,  forming  a  miniature 
town  of  houses,  sheds,  lofts,  stables,  streets,  and  courts.  At  the 
entrance  stand  the  Offices,  where  visitors,  who  readily  obtain  an 
order  to  inspect  the  establishment  on  application,  enter  their  names 
in  a  book.  The  guide  who  is  assigned  to  the  visitor  on  entering 
expects  a  fee  of  a  shilling  or  so.  In  most  of  the  rooms  there  is  a 
somewhat  oppressive  and  heady  odour,  particularly  in  the  f  ermenting- 
rooms,  where  the  carbonic  acid  gas  lies  about  a  foot  deep  over  the 
fresh  brew.  Visitors  are  recommended  to  exercise  caution  in  ac- 
cepting the  guide's  invitation  to  inhale  this  gas. 

In  spite  of  the  vast  dimensions  of  the  coppers,  vats  (one  of  which 
has  a  capacity  of  112,000  gallons,  or  more  than  twice  that  of  the 
Great  Tun  of  Heidelberg),  fermenting  'squares',  and  other  apparatus, 
none  but  the  initiated  will  have  any  idea  of  the  enormous  quantity 
of  liquor  brewed  here  in  the  course  of  a  year,  amounting  to  nearly 
20  million  gallons.  About  170,000  quarters  of  malt  are  annually 
consumed,  and  the  yearly  duty  paid  to  government  by  the  Arm 
amounts  to  the  immense  sum  of  about  220, 000^  One  of  the  early 
owners  of  the  brewery  was  Dr.  Johnson's  friend  Thrale,  after  whose 
death  it  was  sold  to  Messrs.  Barclay  and  Perkins.  Dr.  Johnson's 
words  on  the  occasion  of  the  sale,  which  he  attended  as  an  executor, 
though  often  quoted,  are  worthy  of  repetition :  'We  are  not  here  to 
sell  a  parcel  of  boilers  and  vats,  but  the  potentiality  of  growing  rich 


378  34.  ELEPHANT  AND  CASTLE.    The  Surrey  Side. 

beyond  the  dreams  of  avarice.*  Most  of  the  water  used  in  brewing 
is  supplied  by  an  artesian  well,  sunk  on  the  premises.  —  The 
stables  contain  about  170  strong  dray-horses,  used  for  carting  the 
beet  in  London  and  its  suburbs. 

The  brewing-trade  in  London  has  become  a  great  power  within  the 
last  twenty  or  thirty  years,  and  is  felt  to  have  a  serions  bearing  upon 
the  results  of  parliamentary  and  municipal  elections.  It  is  no  longer  a 
merely  manufacturing  trade,  but  promotes  the  consumption  of  its  own 
goods  by  the  purchase  or  lease  of  public-houses,  where  its  agents  are 
installed  to  conduct  the  sale.  These  agents  are  nominal  tenants  and  are 
possessed  of  votes,  and  their  number  and  influence  arc  so  great,  that  the 
power  of  returning  the  candidate  who  favours  the  'trade^  is  often  in  their 
hands.  Most  of  the  great  brewers  are  now  understood  to  be  extensive 
proprietors  of  such  ^tied  houses.'* 

The  central  station  of  the  Metropolitan  Fire  Brigade  (comp. 
p.  xxxii)  is  in  Southwark  Bridge  Road,  farther  to  the  W. 

Among  other  interesting  associations  connected  with  this  locality  the 
following  may  be  noticed.  The  name  of  Park  Street  reminds  us  of  the 
extensive  Park  of  the  Bishops  of  Winchester,  which  occupied  the  river 
side  from  Winchester  House  to  Holland  Street.  In  the  fields  to  the  S. 
of  this  park  were  the  circuses  for  bull  and  bear  baiting,  so  popular  in 
the  time  of  the  Stuarts.  Edward  Alleyn  was  for  many  years  the  'Keeper 
of  the  King's  wild  beasts^  here,  and  amassed  thereby  IJie  fortune  which 
enabled  him  to  found  Dulwich  College  (see  p.  397).  A  dingy  passage  in 
Bankside  still  shows  the  name  *Bear  Garden'  (PI.  B,  38).  —  Richard  Baxter 
often  preached  in  a  church  in  Park  Street,  and  in  Zoar  Street  there  was 
a  chapel  in  which  John  Banyan  is  said  to  have  ministered.  —  Mint  Street 
recalls  the  mint  existing  here  under  Henry  VIII.  —  In  High  Street  there 
stood  down  to  1875  the  old  Talbot  or  Tabard  Jnn^  the  starting-point  of 
Chaucer's  ^Canterbury  Pilgrims'.  —  The  Oeorge  (rebuilt  after  a  fire  in 
1676)  is  an  interesting  specimen  of  an  old-time  inn,  with  galleries  round 
its  inner  court.  —  The  White  Hart,  a  similar  structure  in  the  Borough 
High  Street,  mentioned  by  Shakspeare  in  *Henry  VI'.  (Part  II,  iv.  8)  and 
by  Dickens  in  the  ^Pickwick  Papers'  (as  the  meeting-place  of  Mr.  Pickwick 
and  Sam  Weller),  was  pulled  down  in  1889.  —  The  MarshaUea  Oaol^  the 
name  of  which  is  familiar  from  ^Little  Dorrit',  stood  near  ^.  Qeorge** 
Church,  at  the  corner  of  Great  Dover  Street  and  Borough  High  Street.  In 
the  graveyard  of  this  church  lies  the  arithmetician  Edward  Ck)cker  (d.  1675), 
whose  memory  is  embalmed  in  the  phrase  'according  to  Cocker'.  —  J9brs«- 
monger  Lane  Oaoh  the  Surrey  county-prison,  in  which  Leigh  Hunt  was 
contined  for  two  year?,  stood  until  1879  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  a 
public  recreation  ground  in  Union  Road. 

The  Borough  High  Street  is  continued  on  the  S.  by  Newington 
Causeway  to  the  Elephant  ar^  Castle  (PI.  G.  33),  a  well-known  tavern 
and  traffic-centre  (omnibuses,  p.  20;  tramways,  pp.  23,  24;  electric 
railways,  pp.  36, 37).  In  Newington  Butts,  to  the  W.,  stood  the  Tahtr- 
nacle  of  the  late  popular  preacher  Mr.  Spurgeon  (d.  1891),  built  in 
the  classic  style  and  accommodating  6000  persons  (comp.  p.  69).  It 
was  burnt  almost  to  the  ground  in  1898,  but  has  been  rebuilt  on  the 
old  lines,  though  on  a  somewhat  smaller  scale.  —  Walworth  Road, 
leading  to  the  S.  from  the  Elephant  and  Castle,  is  continued  by 
Camberwell  Road,  ending  at  CamherweU  Green  (PI.  G,  39).  Church 
Street  leads  hence  towards  the  E.  and  is  continued  by  Peckham 
Road,  near  the  beginning  of  which,  on  the  right,  is  Caniberuytll 
Qrammar  School.  Farther  on  ("No.  63)  is  the  Camberwell  School  of 
Arte  and  Crafts,  opened  in  1898,  with  technical  and  trade  olasses 


The  Surrey  Side.    35     LAMBETH  PALACE.  379 

intended  to  encourage  the  industrial  application  of  .decorative 
design.  Connected  with  the  school  is  the  South  London  Fine  Art 
GaUexy  (PI.  G,43),  founded  in  1868,  as  the  Working  Men's  College 
for  South  London  (open  daily  2-10  p.m.,  Sun.  3-9 p.m.).  It  includes 
a  picture-gallery  of  -works  either  permanent  (Including  a  fine  cartoon 
hy  F.  Madox  Brown)  or  on  loan,  a  free  library,  a  small  museum,  and 
a  lectuxe-hall.  Busts  of  John  Buskin  (comp.  p.  400)  and  Robert 
Browning  commemorate  two  notable  South  Londoners.  Browning, 
bom  in  Camberwell  in  1812,  received  his  early  education  at  the 
Collegiate  School  in  Bnrchall  Road.  —  St  Giles's  Churchy  Camber- 
well,  has  an  E.  window  designed  by  Ruskin ;  on  the  exterior  are  gar- 
goyles representing,  more  or  less  faithfully,  Gladstone,  Lord  Salis- 
bury, Mr.  Chamberlain,  and  other  modern  statesmen^ 

35.  Lambeth  Palace.  Bethlehem  Hospital.  Battersea 
Park. 

St  Thomas's  HospitaL  St  George's  CaUiedrdl.  Battersea  Polytechnic, 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Thames,  from  Westminster  Bridge  to 
Vauxhall  Bridge,  a  distance  of  about  ^/s  of  a  mile,  stretches  the 
Albbbt  Embankment  (PI.  G,  29,  R,  29 ;  iK),  completed  in  1869.  It 
has  a  roadway  60  ft.  in  breadth,  and  cost  more  than  1,000,000^.  On 
it,  opposite  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  stands  St.  ThomaB'B  Hospital 
(PI.  B,  29;  IV),  a  spacious  edifice  built  by  Currey  in  1868-71,  at 
a  cost  of  500,0001.  It  consists  of  seven  four-storied  buildings  in 
red  brick,  united  by  arcades,  and  is  in  all  590  yds.  long.  The  number 
of  in-patients  annually  treated  in  the  572  beds  of  the  hospital  is 
over  5000,  of  out-patients  about  80,000.  Its  annual  revenue  is 
40,000i.  Professional  visitors  will  be  much  interested  in  the  admir- 
able internal  arrangements  (admission  on  Tuesdays  at  10  a.m.). 
The  hospital  was  formerly  in  a  building  in  High  Street,  Southwark, 
which  was  sold  to  the  South  Eastern  Railway  Company  in  1862  for 
296,000i.  —  In  Paris  Street,  to  the  E.  of  the  hospital,  is  the  en- 
trance to  Archbishop's  Park,  a  portion  (ca.  10  acres)  of  the  grounds 
of  Lambeth  Palace,  opened  to  the  public  in  1900. 

Lambeth  Palace  (PI.  R,  29;  /F),  above  the  hospital,  has  been 
for  over  600  years  the  London  residence  of  the  Archbishops  of 
Canterbury.  It  ean  be  visited  only  by  the  special  permission  of  the 
archbishop  (apply  to  the  chaplain).  The  entrance  is  by  the  S.  gate- 
way, a  massive  brick  structure,  flanked  by  two  towers,  which  was 
erected  by  Cardinal  Morton  in  the  end  of  the  15th  century.  The 
part  of  the  palace  actually  occupied  by  the  archbishop  dates  from 
1829-34 ;  visitors  are  shown  over  the  older  portions  usually  in  the 
following  order  (small  fee  to  guide).  The  ^Lollards'  Tower'  (properly 
the  Water  Tower),  so  called  because  the  Lollards,  or  followers  of 
Wycliffe,  were  supposed  to  haTe  been  imprisoned  and  tortured 


380  35.  LAMBETH  PALACE.      The  Surrey  Side. 

here,  is  an  old,  maulTe,  square  keep,  erected  by  Archbisliop  Chi- 
oheley  in  1434.  A  small  room  in  the  upper  part  of  the  tower,  13  V2  ^t. 
long,  12  ft.  wide,  and  8  ft.  high,  called  the  prison*  and  forming  part 
of  a  stalrcase-tnrret  more  than  200  years  older  than  the  time  of 
Chicheley,  still  contains  seyeral  inscriptions  hy  prisoners,  and  eight 
large  rings  fastened  in  the  wall,  to  which  the  heretics  were  chained. 
The  Earl  of  Essex,  Queen  Elizabeth's  fayourite  (1601),  LoYelace, 
the  poet  (1648),  and  Sir  Thomas  Armstrong  (1659),  were  also  con- 
fined here.  The  name  of  Lollards'  Tower,  applied  to  what  is  really 
a  group  of  three  buildings  distinct  in  character  and  architecture, 
dates  only  from  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  The  real  Lollards' 
Tower  was  the  S.  W.  tower  of  old  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  (see  p.  85), 
as  mentioned  in  Stow's  Survey  of  London  (1598).  —  The  Chapel, 
72  ft.  long  and  26  ft.  broad,  which  opens  off  the  lower  part  of  the 
water-tower,  was  built  in  1245  by  Archbishop  Boniface  in  the  Early 
English  style,  and  is  the  oldest  part  of  the  building.  The  screen 
and  windows  were  placed  here  by  Archbishop  Laud;  the  latter 
were  destroyed  in  the  Civil  War  and  replaced  by  Archbishop  Tait, 
his  family,  and  friends.  The  gallery  and  the  lancet-windows  at  the 
W.  end  are  due  to  Juxon.  The  roof  is  modem  and  is  copied  from 
the  vaulting  of  the  crypt.  Parker  (d.  1576)  is  the  only  archbishop 
buried  here.  The  chapel  was  the  scene  of  Wycliffe's  second  trial 
(1378)  and  of  the  consecration  of  the  first  American  bishops  (1787). 
The  Ouard  Chamber,  60  ft.  long,  and  25  ft.  broad,  contains  por- 
traits of  the  archbishops  since  1533,  Including  Archbishop  Laud, 
by  Var^Dyek;  Herring,  \>y  Hogarth;  Seeker,  "by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds; 
Manners- Sutton,  by  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence ;  Howley,  by  Shee ;  Tait, 
by  Sani;  Benson,  by  Herkomer;  and  a  portrait  of  Archbishop  War- 
ham,  by  Holbein  (1528 ;  replica  in  the  Louvre).  The  dining-room 
contains  portraits  of  Luther  and  his  wife.  —  The  Oreat  Hall, 
92  ft.  long  and  40  ft.  broad ,  was  built  by  Archbishop  Juxon  in 
1663  on  the  site  of  the  old  hall,  and  has  a  roof  in  the  style  of  that 
of  Westminster  Hall,  with  Italian  instead  of  Gothic  details.  The 
early-Renaissance  doorway,  bearing  Juxon' s  arms,  should  be  noticed. 
The  hall  now  contains  the  Lihraryj^  established  by  Archbishop  Ban- 
croft in  1610,  and  consisting  of  30,000  vols,  and  2009  MSS.,  some 
of  which,  including  the  Registers  of  the  official  acts  of  the  arch- 
bishops from  1279  to  1744  In  41  vols. ,  are  very  valuable.  The 
glass-cases  contain  some  interesting  MSS.  and  there  is  also  a  special 
series  of  Kentish  books.  The  library  is  accessible  daily,  except 
Saturdays,  between  10  a.m.  and  4  p.m.  (in  summer,  5  p.m.;  Tues., 
10-1 ;  closed  from  the  end  of  Aug.  to  Oct.  16th).  —  See  'Lambeth 
Palace  and  its  Associations',  by  Rev.  J,  Cave  -  Browne  (2nd  ed., 
1883),  and  *Art  Treasures  of  the  Lambeth  Library',  by  the  librarian, 
S.  W.  Kershaw,  F.  S,  A.  (1873). 

The  parish-church  of  8U  Mary,  immediately  to  the  S.  of  the 
palace,  was  rebuilt  in  1851  but  retains  its  old  Perpendicular  tower, 


The  Surrey  Side,   35.  ST.  QEOBaE'S  CATHEDRAL.  381 

It  contains  the  giaTes  of  six  tiolibishops  (Bancroft,  Tenison,  Hntton, 
Seeker,  Comwallis,  and  Moore).  The  'Pedlar's  Window*  commem- 
orates a  pedlar  who  is  said  to  have  bequeathed  an  acre  of  land  (the 
*Pedlar*s  Acre')  to  the  parish. 

The  church  is  sitnated  close  to  the  E.  end  ot  Lambeth  SuBpensioth 
Bridge  (built  in  1862),  whence  Lambeth  Road  runs  to  the  E., 
passing  Bethlehem  Hoipital  (PI.  B,  33 ;  popularly  corrupted  into 
Bedlam) ,  the  oldest  charitable  institution  for  the  insane  in  the 
world. 

The  hoapital  wa«  founded  in  Bishopsgate  Street  by  Sheriff  Simon  Fitz- 
Kary  in  1247,  aa  a  priory  for  the  Order  of  St.  Mary  of  Bethlehem.  The 
priory  was  seiied  by  the  Crown  in  1375,  and  there  is  evidence  that  in- 
sane -penons  were  confined  in  it  as  early  as  1406.  In  1647  Henry  VIII. 
granted  a  charter  to  the  City  of  London  for  the  management  of  the  in- 
stitution, and  it  has  remained  ever  since  one  of  the  ^royal'  hospitals.  The 
building  in  Bishopsgate  Street  was  taken  down  in  1676,  and  a  new  hos- 
pital built  in  Moorfields,  to  replace  which  the  present  building  in  St. 
George's  Fields.  Lambeth,  on  the  site  of  the  notorious  ^Dog  A  Duck  Tavern', 
was  begun  in  1812.  The  cost  of  construction  of  the  hospital,  which  has  a 
frontage  900  ft.  long,  was  122,0001. ;  the  architect  was  Lewis^  but  the  dome 
was  added  by  Sm/trie. 

The  hospital  is  now  used  as  a  charitable  institution  for  persons 
of  unsound  mind  of  the  educated  classes  whose  means  are  insuffi- 
cient to  provide  for  their  proper  treatment  elsewhere,  and  admits 
mainly  acute  and  curable  eases.  Since  the  opening  of  the  State 
Criminal  Asylum  at  Broadmoor  criminal  patients  are  no  longer  con- 
fined here.  Between  1820  and  1899  the  number  of  patients  was 
17,972,  of  whom  more  than  half  were  dismissed  cured.  The  estab- 
lishment can  accommodate  300  patients,  and  is  fitted  up  with  every 
modem  couTenience,  including  hot  air  and  water  pipes,  and  various 
appliances  for  the  amusement  of  the  hapless  inmates,  including  a  fine 
lecreation-hall.  There  is  also  a  convalescent-establishment  at  Witley, 
in  Surrey.  Professional  men,  who  are  admitted  on  application  to 
the  Resident  Physician,  will  find  a  visit  to  the  hospital  exceedingly 
interesting.  —  Obelisk  in  the  grounds,  see  p.  382. 

Si.  Luke**  Hospital  (PL  B,  40),  Old  Street,  City  Boad,  accommodates 
200  patients.  There  are  also  extensive  asylums  for  the  insane  of  the  pauper 
class  at  Olaybury  (near  Woodford,  p.  414)  and  Coim  Hill  (near  Coulsdon, 
8.  E.  B.),  as  well  as  older  institutions  at  Eanwell  (p.  422),  V/t  M.  to  the  W. 
of  Londoh  (O.  W.  B.),  and  CotneyEaich^  Gy^U.  to  the  K.  of  London  (G.  "JS.  B.). 

Beyond  the  hospital,  at  the  comer  of  Lambeth  Road  and 
St.  George's  Road,  stands  St.  Oeorge'i  Cathedral  (PI.  R,  33),  a 
large  Roman  Catholic  church,  begun  by  Pugin  in  the  Gothic  style 
in  1840,  and  completed,  with  the  exception  of  the  tower,  in  1848. 
It  was  not,  however,  consecrated  till  1894,  when  it  was  finally  freed 
from  debt.  —  A  little  to  the  N.W.,  in  Westminster  Bridge  Road,  is 
Christ  Churchy  an  elegant  Nonconformist  chapel,  erected  for  the 
congregation  of  the  celebrated  Rowland  Hill  (1744-1833),  of  Surrey 
Chapel.  The  beautiful  tower  and  spire  were  built  with  American 
contributions  as  a  memorial  of  President  Lincoln.  The  pulpit, 
brought  from  Surrey  Chapel,  bears  an  appropriate  inscription. 


382  35.  CLAPHAM.  The  Surrey  Side. 

Lambeth  Road  ends  at  St.  Gbobob's  Gibcvs(P1.  R,33),  whence 
Westminster  Bridge  Road  luna  to  the  W.  to  Westminster  Brid|^ 
(p.  216) ;  Waterloo  Road,  with  the  Royal  Vietona  Coffee  MuHe  HaU 
(p.  48),  the  Morley  College  for  Working  Men  and  Womenj  and  the 
UrUon  Jack  Cliib  (opened  in  1907)  for  soldiers  and  sailors,  to  the 
N.W.  to  Waterloo  Station  (p.  29)  and  Waterloo  Bridge  (p.  160); 
Blackfriars  Road,  passing  the  Surrey  ITieatre  (p.  47),  to  the  N.  to 
Blackfriars  Bridge  (p.  127) ;  Borongh  Road,  with  the  Borough  Road 
PolytechniCj  to  the  E. ;  and  London  Road  to  the  S.  to  the  Elephant 
and  Castle  (p.  378)  and  Spurgeon's  Taheniacle  (p.  378).  In  the 
centre  of  the  circus  rises  an  illuminated  Clock  Tower,  which  in  1907 
superseded  the  Obelisk  (see  p.  381),  erected  in  1771  In  honour  of 
Lord  Mayor  Crosby,  who  obtained  the  release  of  a  printer  imprisoned 
for  publishing  the  parliamentary  debates. 

From  this  point  we  return  (tramway  No.  55,  p.  24;  see  also 
No.  38)  to  the  Thames  at  Lambeth  Palace,  and  skirt  the  river  towards 
the  S.  by  the  Albert  Embankment  (p.  379),  passing  the  handsome 
buildings  of  Doultoh's  Pottery  Worki  (PI.  G-,  29),  which  have  ob- 
tained a  high  artistic  reputation  and  are  well  worth  a  visit.  On  the 
opposite  (left)  bank  of  the  river  appear  the  handsome  buildiugs  of 
the  Tate  Gallery  (p.  251).  To  our  left  is  the  site  of  the  famons 
Vauxhall  Qardens  (closed  in  1859),  commemorated  in  Yauxhall 
Walk  (PL  G,  29)  and  Tyers  Street  (after  Tyers,  an  18th  cent,  lessee 
of  the  gardens).  At  the  end  of  the  Embankment  Yauxhall  Bridge 
fp.  Q60)  lies  to  our  right,  while  Harloyford  Road  leads  to  the  left 
(S.)  to  Kennirhgton  Oval  (p,  52),  a  ericket-ground  second  only  to 
Lord's  in  public  favour  and  in  Interest.  Just  to  the  W.  of  the  Oval 
is  VauxhaU  Park  (PI.  G,  30),  with  a  terracotta  statue  of  Henry  Fawcett 
(d.  1884),  who  occupied  the  mansion  here,  and  to  the  £.  KenrUngton 
Park  (PI.  G,  34),  the  beautified  remains  of  EenninRton  Common, 
where  the  abortive  Chartist  demonstration  of  April,  1848,  took  place, 
and  where  Whitefleld  and  Wesley  preached  to  enormous  congre- 
gations in  1^2.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  park  is  Kennington  Theatre 
(p.  47).    / 

At  ihe  Lambeth  Free  Librar!/^  at  Brixton  Oval,  at  the  S.  end  of  Brixton 
Road,  a  medallion  was  erected  in  1900  to  the  poet  William  Blake  (1757-1828), 
who  spent  most  of  his  life  on  the  Surrey  side  of  the  Thames. 

Wandsworth  Road  (tramway  No.  31,  p.  22)  leads  to  the  S.W. 
from  VauxhaU  Bridge  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Clapham  Common,  a 
fine  public  park  of  220  acres. 

Clapham  Parish  Church  (Holy  Trinity),  on  the  Common,  was  built  in 
1776  and  has  recently  been  restored.  It  is  interesting  from  its  connection 
with  the  'Clapham  Sect\  a  coterie  of  rich  evangelical  philanthropists  at 
the  end  of  the  18th  cent.,  among  whom  were  Lord  Teignmonth,  Zachary 
Hacaulay  (father  of  Lord  Macaulay),  William  Wilberforce,  Henry  Thorn- 
t'ju,  and  James  Stephen. 

We  diverge  to  the  right^  however,  from  Wandsworth  Koad  by 
Nine  Elms  Lane  (Pl.G,  26),  which  is  continued  farther  on  by  Bat- 
tersea  Park  Road,  leading  to  Battersea  (^Peter^s  ey',  or  Island),  a 


lU  Surrey  Side.        36.  BATTEBI^A.  383 

suburban  district  on  tbe  S.  bank  of  tbe  Tbames,  opposite  Chelsea 
(p.  B66),  witb  about  160,000  inhabitants.  Battersea  is  noted  chiefly 
for  ita  park  and  contains  numerous  important  manufactories.  The 
making  of  Battersea  enamel  (see  p.  360)  has  long  been  discontinued. 

In  Battersea  Park  Road,  close  to  the  Battersea  Park  Road  Station 
(PI.  O,  23),  is  the  Home  for  Lost  Dogs  and  Cats  (open  to  visitors 
10-6,  in  winter  10-4;  small  donation  expected).  In  1903  about 
24,100  dogs  and  560  cats  were  received  here,  most  of  which  came 
to  a  painless  death  in  the  lethal  chamber.  Gats  may  be  boarded  at 
the  Home  for  is.  6d.  per  week.  The  Home  has  a  country  branch  at 
Hackbridge,  in  Surrey,  whither  weakly  dogs  are  sent  to  be  restored 
to  good  condition. 

A  litcle  farther  on  in  Battersea  Park  Road  is  the  Battersea  Poly- 
technic Institnte  (comp.  p.  xxxiii),  a  handsome  building  by  Mount- 
ford,  erected  in  1892.  It  includes  workshops  for  vailous  trades, 
laboratories,  art,  music,  and  photographic  rooms,  several  lecture 
and  class  rooms,  gymnasia  for  men  and  women,  and  elub  and  social 
rooms.  Recitals  are  given  on  a  fine  organ  presented  by  the  late  Sir 
Henry  Tate  (p.  261). 

BatterieaPark(Pl.  G,  14, 15, 18, 19),  at  the  S.W.  end  of  Lon- 
don, on  the  right  bank  of  the  Thames,  opposite  Chelsea  Hospital, 
was  laid  out  in  1852-58  at  a  cost  of  312,8902.,  and  is  about  200 
acres  in  extent.  On  the  N.  side  is  Battersea  Park  Pier  (comp.  p.  38). 
At  the  lower  end  of  the  park  is  the  elegant  Chelsea  Suspension 
Bridge  or  Victoria  Bridge,  leading  to  Pimlico,  and  1/2  M.  distant  from 
Victoria  Station  (p.  27 ;  omnibus).  From  the  upper  end  of  the  park 
the  Albert  Suspension  Bridge  crosses  to  the  Chelsea  Embankment. 
Near  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  park  are  Battersea  Park  Station  of  the 
West  London  Extension  and  the  Battersea  Park  Road  Station  of 
the  Metropolitan  Extension  (see  p.  28).  The  principal  attraction  of 
the  extensive  pleasure  grounds,  which  are  provided  with  an  artificial 
sheet  of  water,  groups  of  trees,  etc.,  is  the  Sub-tropical  Garden, 
4  acres  in  extent,  containing  most  beautiful  and  carefully  cultivated 
flower-1>eds  and  tropical  plants,  which  are  in  perfection  in  August 
and  September.  The  park  contains  large  open  spaces  for  cricket, 
football,  lawn  tennis,  and  bowls,  and  is  also  one  of  the  favourite 
resorts  of  cyclists  (cycles  for  hire  near  the  N.E.  gate).  Motors  are 
limited  to  a  speed  of  8  M.  per  hour.  It  contains  two  or  three  un- 
pretending refreshment-rooms. 

The  parish-church  of  St,  Mary,  adjoining  Battersea  Square  Pier 
(PI.  G,  11),  rebuilt  in  1776,  contains  some  memorials  and  stained 
glass  from  the  earlier  edifice,  including  the  monument  of  Henry 
St.  John,  Viscount  Bolingbroke  (1678-1751),  and  his  second  wife 
(a  niece  of  Mme.  de  Maintenon).  The  monument,  in  the  N.  gallery, 
is  adorned  with  their  medallions  by  Roubiliac  and  bears  epitaphs 
written  by  Bolingbroke  himself.   The  E.  window  contains  ancient 


384  35.  BATTERSEA.       The  Surrey  Side. 

stained  gUss,  relating  to  the  St.  John  family.  William  Blake,  the 
poet  and  artist,  was  married  at  St.  Mary's  in  1782 ;  and  Turner 
used  to  sketch  from  the  testry  windows.  —  Dives*  Flow  Mills,  to 
the  N.  of  the  church,  occupy  the  site  of  Bolinghroke's  manor-house, 
of  which  the  W.  wing  still  remains,  containing  the  cedar-wainscotted 
room,  overlooking  the  Thames,  in  which  Pope  wrote  the  *EBsay 
on  Man'. 


EXCUBSIONS  FBOM  LONDON. 

36.  The  Thames  fromLondon  Bridge  to  Hampton  Court. 

Steamboats  used  to  ply  from  L(mdon  Bridge  to  CheUea  and  (leas  fre- 
quently) thence  to  Hampton  Courts  but  the  services  have  been  suspended 
(comp.  p.  38)>  By  embarking  at  Chelsea  or  Battersea  Park  the  trayeller 
could  shorten  the  trip  by  about  1  hour.  Steamers  ply  upstream  from 
£iehmond  and  Kinffiton  (comp.  pp.  411,  889).  —  The  scenery,  after  London 
is  fairly  left  behind,  is  of  a  very  soft  and  pleasing  character,  consisting  of 
luxuriant  woods,  smiling  meadows,  and  picturesque  yillas  and  villages. 
The  course  of  the  river  is  very  tortuous.  ~  The  words  right  and  left  in 
the  following  description  are  used  with  reference  to  going  upstream. 

BowxHO  AND  Sailing  Boats  may  be  hired  at  Richmond,  Kingston, 
Hampton  Wick,  and  several  other  places  on  the  river,  the  charges  vary- 
ing aecording  to  the  season,  the  size  of  the  boat,  ete.  (previous  under- 
standing advisable).  Elsctrio  and  other  Motor  Launches  may  also  be 
hired.  The  prettiest  part  of  the  river  near  London  for  short  boating 
excursions  is  the  stretch  between  Kichmond  and  Hampton  Court.  A  trifling 
fee,  which  may  be  ascertained  from  the  official  table  posted  at  each  lock 
(Bd.'U.  for  rowing-boats),  has  to  be  paid  for  passing  the  locks.  Rowing 
boats  going  upstream  generally  keep  near  the  bank  to  escape  the  current. 
Boats  pass  each  other  to  the  right,  but  a  boat  overtaking  another  one 
keeps  to  the  left. 

For  the  river  above  Hampton  Court,  see  Baedeker's  Great  Britain. 

The  prominent  objects  on  botb  banks  of  the  Thames  between 
London  Bridge  and  Battersea  Bridge  have  already  been  pointed  out 
in  various  parts  of  the  Handbook,  so  that  nothing  more  is  required 
here  than  a  list  of  them  in  the  order  in  which  they  occur,  with 
references  to  the  pages  where  they  are  described :  —  South  Eastern 
Railway  Bridgej  Souihwark  Bridge  (p.  131),  St.  PauVs  Cathedral 
(right ;  p.  86),  South  Eastern  and  Chatham  Railway  Bridge  (p.  131), 
Blackfriars  Bridge  (p.  127),  Victoria  Embankment  (right;  p.  125), 
the  City  of  London  School  (right;  p.  127),  the  Temple  (right; 
p.  162),  with  the  Law  Courts  (p.  166)  appearing  above  it,  Somerset 
House  (right;  p.  159),  Waterloo  Bridge  (p.  160),  Savoy  and  Cecil 
HoteU  (light;  p.  4),  Cleopatra's  Needle  (right;  p.  126),  Charing 
Cross  Railway  Bridge^  Montague  House  (right;  p.  215),  New  Scot- 
land Yard  (right;  p.  216),  Westminster  Bridge  (p.  216),  Houses  of 
Parliament  (light;  p.  217),  Westminster  Abbey  (right  ]  p.  226),  Al- 
bert Embankment  (left ;  p.  379),  St.  Thomas's  Hospital  (left ;  p.  379), 
Lambeth  Palace  (left ;  p.  379),  Lambeth  Bridge  (p.  381),  Tate  Gal- 
lery (right;  p.  261),  VauxhaU  Bridge  (p.  260),  South  Eastern  and 
Chatham  Railway  Bridge  (Orosvenor  Road  Bridge^  p.  260),  Chelsea 
Suspension  Bridge  (p.  366),  Battersea  Park  (left ;  p.  383),  Chelsea 
Hospital  (right;  p.  367),  Albert  Bridge  (^.  367),  Battersea  Bridge 
(p.  367). 

Baedeker's  London.    i5th  Edit.  25 


386  36.    PUTNEY.  Excursions 

A  little  way  aboye  Battersea  is  another  Bailway  Bridge,  beyond 
which  we  reach  Wandsworth  Bridge  and  — 

L.  Wandsworth  (railway-station ,  see  p.  423),  an  outlying 
suburb  of  London,  containing  a  large  number  of  factories  and  brew- 
eries. On  Wandsworth  Common  (183  acres)  is  Wandsworth  Prison, 
accommodating  about  1000  male  prisoners.  The  old  Huguenot  Burial 
Ground  here  is  interesting.  War^worth  Park  (19  acres),  close  to 
the  river,  was  opened  in  1903.  The  scenery  now  begins  to  become 
more  rural  in  character,  and  the  dusky  hues  of  the  great  city  give 
place  to  the  green  tints  of  meadow  and  woodland.  About  1  M.  above 
Wandsworth  the  river  is  spanned  by  Putney  Bridge,  erected  in 
1886,  connecting  Fulham,  on  the  right,  with  Putney,  on  the  left. 

R.  Fulham,  principally  noted  for  containing  t  country-residence 
of  the  Bishops  of  London,  who  have  been  lords  of  the  manor  from  very 
early  times.  The  Episcopal  Palace,  which  stands  above  the  bridge, 
dates  in  part  from  the  16th  century.  Its  grounds  contain  some  fine 
old  trees,  and  are  enclosed  by  a  moat  about  1 M.  in  circumference. 
In  the  library  are  portraits  of  Sandys,  Archbishop  of  York,  Laud, 
Ridley  the  martyr,  and  other  ecclesiastics,  chiefly  Bishops  of  London. 
The  first  bishop  who  is  known  with  certainty  to  have  resided  here 
was  Robert  Seal,  in  1241.  A  handsome,  but  somewhat  incongruous, 
chapel  was  added  to  the  palace  in  1867.  Fulham  Church,  rebuilt 
in  1881,  has  a  tower  of  the  14th  cent.,  and  contains  the  tombs  of 
numerous  Bishops  of  London.  Theodore  Hook  (d.  1841)  and  Yin- 
cent  Bourne  (d.  1747)  are  buried  in  the  churchyard.  Richardson 
wrote  'Clarissa  Harlowe*  at  No.  Ill  North  End  Road,  a  house  after- 
wards occupied  by  Sir  Ed.  Burne-Jones  in  1867-98.  Near  Parson's 
Green  station  (p.  32)  are  the  pleasant  premises  of  the  Hurlingham 
Club,  with  grounds  for  pigeon-shooting,  polo,  lawn- tennis,  etc. 

L.  Pntney  (railway-station,  p.  423)  is  well  known  to  Londoners 
as  the  starting-point  for  the  annual  boat-race  between  Oxford  and 
Cambridge  universities  (p.  51),  which  takes  place  on  the  river  be- 
tween this  village  and  Mortlake  (p.  387). 

Thomai  Cromwell,  Wolsey's  secretary,  and  afterwards  Earl  of  Essex, 
was  the  son  of  a  Putney  blacksmith;  and  Edward  Gibbon,  the  historian, 
was  born  here  In  1737.  In  1806  WUliam  Pitt  died  at  Bowling  Qreen 
House,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  near  Putney  Heath,  where,  eight  years 
before,  he  had  engaged  in  a  duel  with  George  Tiemey.  Lord  Gastlereagh 
and  George  Canning  also  fought  a  duel  on  the  heath  in  1809.  The  tower 
of  I'utney  Church  is  about  400  years  old. 

*Beautiful  walk  from  Putney  over  Putney  Heath,  through  the  village 
of  Roehampton  (IVs^-  to  theS.)  and  Richmond  Park,  to  (4M.)  Richmond. 

The  fine  old  house,  called  Barn  Elms,  which  we  now  soon 
observe  on  the  left,  was  granted  by  Queen  Elizabeth  to  Sir  Francis 
Walsingham ,  who  entertained  his  sovereign  lady  here  on  various 
occasions.  It  was  afterwards  occupied  by  Jacob  Tonson,  the  publisher, 
who  built  a  room  here  for  the  famous  portraits  of  the  Kit-Cat  Club, 
painted  for  him  by  Sir  Godfrey  Kneller.  The  Banelagh  Club  here 
has  grounds  for  polo,  golf,  lawn  tennis,  etc. 


from  London.  36.   OHISWICK.  387 

On  the  opposite  bank,  a  little  farther  on,  formerly  stood  Brandtt^urgh 
Houtty  built  in  the  time  of  Charles  I.;  it  was  once  inhabited  by  Fairfax, 
the  Parliamentary  general,  by  Queen  Caroline,  consort  of  Oeorge  IV.,  who 
died  here  in  1831,  and  by  varions  other  notabilities. 

R.  Hammenmitli  (rail way-station),  now  a  town  of  oonsldeiable 
size,  but  of  little  interest  to  strangers.  The  Church  of  8t.  Pauly 
consecrated  in  1631,  containing  some  interesting  monuments,  a 
ceiling  painted  by  Cipriani,  and  an  altar-piece  carved  by  Grinling 
Gibbons ,  was  pnlled  down  in  1882  to  make  room  for  a  new  and 
larger  ediflee.  Tbe  town  contains  numerous  Roman  Catholic  in- 
habitants and  institutions.  Some  of  the  houses  in  the  Mall  date 
from  the  time  of  Queen  Anne.  Hammersmith  is  connected  by  a 
suspension-bridge  with  the  cluster  of  villas  called  Caatelnau.  — 
8L  PauVa  School ,  founded  in  1512  by  Dean  Colet,  was  transferred 
to  Hammersmith  from  behind  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  in  1884.  Among 
its  eminent  alumni  are  Camden,  Milton,  the  first  Duke  of  Marl- 
borough, Pepys,  Jeffreys,  Major  Andr^,  and  Jowett.  A  bronze  statue 
of  the  founder,  by  Hamo  Thorneycroft,  was  unveiled  here  in  1902. 
A  little  to  the  N.,  near  Addison  Road  Station,  is  the  huge  building 
of  Olympia  (p.  49).  In  Blythe  Road,  just  behind  Oiympia,  rises 
the  new  Post  Office  Savings  Bank,  opened  in  1903,  a  huge  edifice 
of  brick  and  stone ,  designed  by  Henry  Tanner.  The  building, 
covering  five  acres,  accommodates  3200  officers  and  clerks,  of  whom 
nearly  1400  are  women ;  three  of  the  rooms  are  each  350  ft.  in  length. 
There  are  about  9,000,000  depositors  in  this  government  savings- 
bank,  the  annual  deposits  amounting  to  about  15,000,00Q£. 

R.  CMswick  (railway-station,  p.  423)  contained  the  gardens  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  (p.  251)  from  1822  to  1904.  Op- 
posite Chiswick  lies  Chiswick  Eyot 

In  Chutciek  Souse,  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire,  Charles 
James  Foz  died  in  1806 ,  and  (George  Canning  in  1827.  It  was  built  by 
the  Karl  of  Burlington ,  the  builder  of  Burlington  House,  Piccadilly 
(p.  264),  in  imitation  of  the  Villa  Gapra  at  Vicenza,  one  of  Palladio's  best 
works.  The  wings,  by  Wyatt,  were  added  afterwards.  —  The  church- 
yard contains  the  grave  of  Hogarth,  the  painter  (d.  1764),  who  died  in  a 
dwelling  in  Hogarth  Lane,  4  min.  from  the  church,  now  called  Hogarth 
Eotue.  This  house,  which  was  occupied  by  Gary,  the  translat  orof  Dante, 
in  1814-26,  has  been  fitted  up  as  a  Hogarth,  Museum.  It  contains  136  of 
Hogarth*s  prints  and  various  personal  relics  of  the  painter.  In  the  garden  is  his 
mulberiqr  tree.    Open  11-6  (in  winter  11-3)  on  Men.,  Wed.,  and  Sat. ;  adm.  isd. 

L.  Barnes  (railway-station,  p.  423),  a  village  with  a  church  partly 
of  the  12th  cent.,  freely  restored,  and  possessing  a  modern,  ivy-clad 
tower.    At  the  next  bend,  beyond  Barnes  Railway  Bridge,  lies  — 

L.  Mortlake  (rail,  stat.,  p.  423),  with  a  church  occupying  the 
site  of  an  edifice  of  the  14th  cent.;  the  tower  dates  from  1543.  In 
the  Interior  is  a  tablet  to  Sir  Philip  Francis  (d.  1818),  now  usually 
identified  with  Junius. 

The  two  famous  astrologers,  Dee  and  Partridge,  resided  at  Mortlake, 
where  Queen  Elizabeth  is  said  to  have  consulted  the  first-named.  Sir 
Bichard  (d.  1891)  and  Lady  Burton  are  buried  here,  under  a  tent  of  white 
marble.  —  ^Pleasant  walk  through  (8.)  East  Sheen  to  Bichmond  Park. 

25* 


388  36.    TWICKENHAM.  Excursions 

L.  Kew  (p.  412)  has  a  railway-station  on  the  opposite  bank,  with 
which  King  Edward  VII,  Bridge^  opened  in  1904  connects  it.  (The 
old  stone  hrldge  was  removed  in  1899.)  Picturesque  walk  to  Rich- 
mond. It  was  on  an  *eyot'  between  Richmond  and  Kew  that  Prince 
William  (William  IV.)  used  to  meet  Perdita  Robinson. 

R.  Brentford  (p.  405),  near  which  is  Sion  House  (p.  406)# 

R.  Iflleworth  (rail,  stat.),  a  favourite  residence  of  London 
merchants,  with  numerous  villas  and  market-gardens.  The  woods 
and  lawns  on  the  banks  of  the  river  in  this  neighbourhood  are  very 
charming.  The  course  of  the  stream  is  from  S.  toN.  A  lock,  the  first  as 
we  ascend  the  riyer,  was  opened  here  in  1894;  beyond  it  we  pass 
under  a  railway-bridge,  and  then  a  stone  bridge,  the  latter  at  — 

L.  Richmor^d  (see  p.  411);  boats  may  be  hired  here  (p.  385). 

L.  Petersham  (Dysart  Arms) ,  with  a  red  brick  church ,  in  a 
quaint  classical  style,  dating  from  1505  but  enlarged  since.  Gapt. 
Vancouver  (d.  1798)  is  buried  in  the  cemetery.  Ham  House  (Earl 
of  Dysart),  also  of  red  brick,  facing  the  river,  was  the  meeting- 
place  of  the  Cabal  during  its  tenancy  by  the  Duke  of  Lauderdale. 

A  little  farther  from  the  river  stands  Budbrook  House  ^  built  by  the 
Bake  of  Argyll  (d.  1743) ,  and  now  a  hydropathic  establishment.  It  is 
immortalised  by  Scott  in  the  ^Heart  of  Midlothian' ,  as  the  scene  of  the 
interview  between  Jeanie  Deans  and  the  Duke. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Thames  is  — 
R.  Twickenham  (Railway;  King's  Head;  Albany ;  White  Swan, 
by  the  river),  with  a  great  number  of  interesting  historical  villas 
.  and  maneions.  The  name  most  intimately  associated  with  the  place 
'  is  that  of  Popo,  whose  villa,  however,  has  been  replaced  by  an- 
',  other,  while  his  grotto  also  is  altered.    The  poet  was  buried  in  the 
'  old  parish-church,  and  its  present  modern  successor  still  contains 
his  monument,  erected  by  Bishop  Warburton  in  1761.  The  mon- 
ument erected  by  Pope  to  his  parents  *et  sibi'  is  now  concealed  by 
the  organ.   On  the  exterior  of  the  E.  wall  of  the  N.  aisle  is  a  tablet 
placed  by  Pope  in  memory  of  his  nurse  who  served  him  for  38  years. 
Kitty  Olive  (d.  1785),  the  actress,  is  buried  in  the  churchyard. 
'  Turner  painted  some  of  his  finest  works  at  Sandycombe  Lodge  at 
^Twickenham  (ca.  1814-26).    Below  Twickenham  stands  Orleans 
.  House,  a  building  of  red  brick,  once  the  residence  of  Louis  Philippe 
and  other  members  of  the  Orleans  family.  York  House,  saiA'to  owe 
its  name  to  James  II.,  was  until  1900  the  residence  of  the  present 
Due  d'Orl^ans.    Farther  up  the  river,  about  Yg  M.  above  Twicken- 
ham, is  Strawberry  Hill^  Horace  Walpole's  famous  villa;  it  was 
N  long  the  residence  of  the  late  Countess  Waldegrave,  who  collected 
here  many  of  the  objects  of  art  which  adorned  it  in  Walpole*s  time. 
Among  other  celebrities  connected   with  Twickenham  is  Henry 
Fielding,  the  novelist.  Marble  Hill  Park  (66  acres)  was  acquired  for 
the  public  in  1903,  partly  to  preserve  the  famous  view  from  Rich- 
mond Hill  (p.  412).    Eel  Pie  Island  (inn),  opposite  Twickenham, 
la  a  favourite  resort  of  picnic  parties. 


fr(ym  Ltmion.  36.  KINGSTON.  389 

R.  Teddifiyton  (p.  411),  with  the  second  lock  on  the  Thames 
and  a  foot-bridge. 

L.  KiAgitonC&ri/jfSn;  SunfWheatsheaf;  rail,  stat.,  p.  423),  an  old 
Saxon  town,  where  some  of  the  early  kings  of  England  were  crowned. 
In  the  market-place,  surrounded  by  an  ornamental  iron  railing,  is 
the  Stone  which  is  said  to  have  been  used  as  the  king's  seat  during 
the  coronation-ceremony.  The  names  of  those  believed  to  have  been 
crowned  here  are  carved  on  the  stone.  The  Town  Hallj  with  an  old 
leaden  statue  of  Queen  Anne  (renovated  in  1902)  over  the  doorway, 
dates  from  1840;  the  Renaissance  County  HaU  from  1893.  The 
former  contains  a  stained-glass  window  put  up  in  1899  to  commem- 
orate the  sept-centenary  of  the  borough's  charter.  The  Chiurch  of  All 
8aint$  is  a  fine  cruciform  structure,  dating  in  part  from  the  14th 
century.  Kingston  is  united  with  Hampton  Wick  on  the  other  bank 
by  a  stone  bridge,  constructed  in  1827.  It  is  surrounded  by  numer- 
ous villas  and  country-residences,  and  is  a  favourite  resort  of  Lon- 
doners in  summer.  A  memorial  unveiled  at  Hampton  Wick  in 
1900  commemorates  Timothy  Bennet,  a  cobbler  who  spent  his  last 
savings  in  vindicating  the  public  right  of  way  through  Bushy  Park. 

Bowing  and  sailing  boats  may  be  hired  either  at  Kingston  or  Hampton 
Wick.  —  Pleasant  walks  to  Ham  Common^  and  through  Bushy  Park  to  (2  M.) 
HatnpUm  Court.  —  The  Qnildford  coach  (p.  25)  passes  through  Kingston. 

In  summer  a  small  steamer  plies  between  Kingston  and  Oxford  (two 
days;  the  night  is  spent  at  Henley);  fare  lis.  Od.,  return  25«. 

Steaming  past  Surhiton,  the  southern  suburb  of  Kingston,  and 
Thames  Ditton  (p.  406),  on  the  left,  we  now  arrive  at  the  bridge 
erossing  the  river  at  — 

Hampton  Court,  see  p.  406.  (The  village  of  Hampton  lies  on 
the  right,  about  1  M.  farther  up.) 

37.   The  Thames  from  London  Bridge  to  Gravesend. 

Stbauboats  from  London  Bridge  to  Oraveaend^  see  p.  39.  To  Gravesend 
by  railway,  see  R.  46. 

The  scenery  of  the  Thames  below  London  contrasts  very  unfavourably 
with  the  smiling  beauties  of  the  same  river  higher  up;  yet  the  trip  down 
to  Gravesend  has  attractions  of  its  own,  and  may  be  recommended  as 
affording  a  good  survey  of  the  vast  commercial  traffic  of  London.  —  The 
words  right  and  left  in  the  following  description  are  used  with  reference 
to  going  downstream. 

Leaving  Fresh  Wharf  or  Old  Swan  Pier  at  London  Bridge,  the 
steamboat  steers  through  the  part  of  the  Thames  known  as  the  Pool 
(p.  123).  The  principal  objects  seen  on  the  banks  are  the  Mon- 
ument (left;  p.  123),  St.  Olave'8  G/»«rcft  (left),  BiUingsgate  (left; 
p.  124),  Custom  House  (left-,  p.  124),  and  Tower  (left;  p.  131). 
We  then  pass  under  the  Tower  Bridge  (p.  140)  and,  beyond  St, 
Katharine  Docks  and  London  Docks  (both  left),  proceed  between 
Wapping  (p.  142),  on  the  left,  and  Rotherhithe  (p.  142),  on  the 
right,  which  are  connected  by  the  Thames  Tunnel  (p.  142).  The 
steamer  passes    Cherry  Gardens  Pier  in  Rotherhithe  and   Thames 


390  37.  EBITH.  ExeufiionB 

Tunnel  Pier  in  W&ppiDg.  —  On  the  left  bank  lies  the  district  of 
Shadwtll  (p.  142).  To  the  right  are  the  Surrey  Commereidl  Docks 
(p.  142),  and  opposite  them  is  Limehouse  Dock.  At  Lhnehouse  Pier^ 
in  Limehonse  Reach,  the  Pool  ends.  For  the  next  three  miles  we 
skirt  the  Isle  of  Dogs  (p.  143),  on  the  left,  on  which  are  the  West 
India  Docks  and  MUlwall  Docks,  Opposite  Millivall  Pier  lies  Dept- 
ford,  vlth  the  Royal  Victualling  Yard  and  the  Foreign  Oattle  Market 
(p.  143).  A  tablet  in  the  latter  commemorates  the  fact  that  Peter  the 
Great  worked  as  a  shipwright  In  the  old  naval  dockyard,  formerly 
on  this  site.  —  We  pass  over  Greenwich  Tunnel  (p.  143),  just  before 
reaching  — 

R.  Ghreenwich  Pier.  Oreenwich^  see  p.  391.  —  Immediately 
beyond  the  pier  rises  Greenwich  Hospital  (p.  392),  on  a  river-ter- 
race 860  ft.  long,  and  behind  it  are  Greenwich  Park  and  Observatory 
(p.  394). 

We  now  steer  to  the  N.,  down  Black  wall  Beach,  with  Qreen-^ 
wich  Marshes  on  the  right.  On  the  left,  farther  on,  lie  Blaekwatt 
and  the  East  India  Docks,  beyond  which  we  pass  over  Blackwall 
Tunnel  (p.  143),  just  before  reaching  Blackwall  Pier.  —  At  the 
mouth  of  Bow  Creek  (left),  by  which  the  Lea  enters  the  Thames, 
is  Trinity  Wharf,  belonging  to  the  Trinity  House  (p.  138).  On  the 
left  are  the  Royal  Victoria  Docks  (p.  143),  continued  on  the  E.  by 
the  Albert  Docks  (p.  143),  with  the  workmen's  quarters  of  Canning 
Town  and  Silvertown.  Off  Charlton  Pier  (right)  lies  the  'Warspite' 
training-ship  of  the  Royal  Marine  Society. 

R.  Woolwich  Pier.  Woolwich,  see  p.  395.  —  Near  the  pier 
there  is  a  steam  Ferry  (p.  395)  to  North  Woolwich  (p.  144). 

The  banks  of  the  Thames  below  Woolwich  are  very  flat  and 
marshy,  recalling  the  appearance  of  a  Dutch  landscape.  Shortly 
after  leaving  Woolwich  we  enter  a  part  of  the  river  called  Barking 
Reach,  with  Plumstead  Marshes  on  the  right.  To  the  left  are  the 
huge  gas-works  at  Beckton.  Farther  on,  at  Barking  Greek  on  the 
N.,  and  Grossness  on  the  S.  bank,  are  situated  the  outlets  of  Lon- 
don's new  and  gigantic  system  of  drainage  (p.  xxxi).  The  pnmping 
house  at  Grossness  is  a  building  of  some  architectural  merit,  with 
an  Italian  tower  (visitors  admitted  on  application  at  the  office). 
Passing  through  Halfway  Reach  and  Frith  Reach,  with  Belvedere 
House  (p.  432)  and  Frith  Marshes  on  our  right,  we  next  arrive  at  — 

R.  Frith  (Prince  of  Wales),  a  village  pleasantly  situated  at  the 
base  of  a  wooded  hill,  with  a  picturesque,  ivy-clad,  old  church.  It 
is  a  favourite  starting-point  for  yacht-races.  —  On  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  river,  2  M.  lower  down,  lies  — 

L.  Purfleet  (Royal  Hotel,  fish-dinners),  the  seat  of  large  Gov- 
ernment powder-magazines,  capable  of  containing  60,000  barrels 
of  powder.  The  training-ship  Cornwall  is  moored  in  the  Thames 
at  Purfleet.  Opposite  is  the  mouth  of  the  small  river  Parent.  In 
Long  Reach,   between  Purfleet  and  Greenhithe,   is  the  Admiralty 


ffomLondcm.  37.  NORTHFLEET.  391 

^measured  mile.'  —  The  Essex  bank  here  forms  a  sharp  promontory, 
immediately  opposite  which,  in  a  corresponding  indentation,  lies  — 

R.  Qteenkithe  (Pier;  White  Hart),  a  pretty  little  place,  with  a 
nnmber  of  villas.  The  training-ships  ''Artthusa'  and  ^  Qiiehtsitr'  and 
the  higher  class  school-ship  *  Wor<j««t«r'  lie  in  the  river  here.  Green- 
hithe  is  also  a  yachting-station.  A  little  way  inland  is  Slant  Churchy 
supposed  to  have  been  built  by  the  architect  of  Westminster  Abbey, 
and  restored  by  Street  (p.  155);  it  contains  some  fine  stone-carving 
and  old  brasses.  Just  beyond  Qreenhithe  the  eye  is  attracted  by  the 
conspicuous  white  mansion  of  Ingreis  Abbey,  at  one  time  occupied 
by  the  father  of  Sir  Henry  Havelock.  Two  miles  below  Greenhithe, 
on  the  opposite  bank,  is  — 

L.  Wt9t  ThufToek  (Old  Ship),  with  the  Norman  church  of  St. 
Clement  (12t]r  cent)  and  some  remains  of  an  old  monastery. 

L.  Qrays  Thurrock  (King's  Arms),  near  which  are  some  curious 
caves.  The  training-ships  ^Shaftesbury^  and  ^Exmouth^  are  moored 
here.  —  Next,  3  M.  lower  down,  — 

R.  Northfleet^  with  chalk-pits,  cement-factories,  and  a  fine  old 
church  containing  some  monuments  and  a  carved  oak  rood-screen  of 
the  14th  century.  Northfleet  also  possesses  a  college  for  indigent 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  a  working-men's  club,  the  latter  a  large 
red  and  white  brick  building.  An  electric  tramway  runs  from 
Northfleet  station  (S.  E.  R.)  to  the  top  of  Northfleet  Hill  (Id.),  where 
it  connects  with  another  tramway  to  Rosherville  and  Gravesend 
(through-fare  2d,'),    The  steamer  next  passes  — 

Rosherville  (p.  433),  with  a  pier  (right),  and  finally  reaches  — 

R.  Oravesend,  p.  433.  Thence  by  rail  to  London  or  Boehestery 
see  R.  46. 

On  the  Essex  bank,  opposite  Gravesend,  we  obsenre  the  low  bastions 
of  Tilbury  Fort,  originally  constructed  by  Henry  VIII.  fo  defend  the  mouth 
of  the  Thames,  and  since  extended  and  strengthened.  It  was  here  that 
Queen  Elizabeth  assembled  and  reriewed  her  troops  in  anticipation  of 
the  attack  of  the  Armada  (1588),  appearing  in  helmet  and  corslet,  and 
using  the  bold  and  well-known  words:  'I  know  I  have  the  body  of  a 
weak,  feeble  woman,  but  I  have  the  heart  and  stomach  of  a  king,  and 
of  a  king  of  England  too !'  The  large  docks  at  Tilbuty  (Tilbury  Grand 
Hotel),  opened  in  1886,  comprise  688  acres,  of  which  73  are  water.  They 
have  frequent  railway-communication  with  Fenchurch  Street  (p.  28). 

38.  Greenwich  Hospital  and  Park. 

Greenwich  may  be  reached  by  Steamboat,  see  R.  37  (pleasant  in  fine 
weather);  by  Tramway^  see  Kos.  86,  87,  48,  p.  33;  or  by  Rctilway  in 
25-35  min.  from  Charing  Cross  Station  (p.  27 ;  trains  every  20  min. ;  fares 
lid.,  7d.,  6d.),  Cannon  Street  (fares  9d.,  &f.,  l^/id.),  London  Bridge,  Victoria 
(fares  iOd.,  9d.,  6d.))  or  ffolbom  Viaduct.  —  This  excursion  may  also  be 
combined  with  a  visit  to  Blackball  and  the  Docks,  starting  from  Fenchurch 
Street  Station  (see  R.  9). 

Greenwich.  —  Trapalqab  Hotel,  near  the  pier;  Ckown  &  Soeptrr. 
—  Ship  Stores  Restaurant^  luncheon  from  is.  6flf.  \  numerous  Tea  Gardens  in 
summer. 

Greenwich  Tunnel,  to  the  Isle  of  Dogs,  see  p.  U3. 


392  38.  GKEENWICH.  ExcurHons 

Greenwich,  with  99,824  inlial).  ^1901),  is  situated  in  Kent,  on 
the  S.  bank  of  the  Thames,  4^2  M.  helow  London  Bridge.  —  At  the 
close  of  the  parliamentary  session  the  Cabinet  Ministers  and  other 
members  of  the  GoYernment  were  ^wont  for  many  years  to  partake 
of  an  anunal  banqnet  at  Greenwich,  known  as  the  Whitebait  Dinner , 
from  the  whitebait,  a  small  fish  not  mnch  more  than  an  inch  in 
length,  for  which  Greenwich  is  famous,  and  which  is  considered  a 
great  delicacy.  It  is  eaten  with  cayenne  pepper,  lemon  juice,  and 
brown  bread  and  butter.  The  Whitebait  Dinner  was  given  up 
about  1880.    Greenwich  Fair  was  discontinued  in  1856. 

In  Church  Street,  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  station,  is  the  parish- 
church  of  8t.  Alphage  or  St.  Alfege  (rebuilt  in  the  Italian  style  in 
1718),  which  contains  the  tombs  of  General  Wolfe  (d.  at  Quebec  1769) 
and  of  Thomas  Tallis  (ca.  1515-85),  ^father  of  Engtish  cathedral- 
music*.  The  stained-glass  window  above  the  gallery,  at  the  S.E. 
end  of  the  nave,  commemorates  the  baptism  of  Henry  VIII.  (comp. 
below)  in  the  old  parish-church;  and  the  window  opposite  was 
placed  in  memory  of  Wolfe  in  1896.  —  From  Nelson  Street,  which 
diverges  to  the  right  from  Church  Street,  EingWilliam  Street  leads  to 
the  S.  to  Greenwich  Park  (p.  394)  and  to  the  N.  to  the  entrance  of — 

^Greenwich  HoBpital  and  Boyal  Naval  College  (PI.  G,  70),  oc- 
cupying the  site  of  an  old  royal  palace,  built  in  1433  by  Humphrey, 
Duke  of  Gloucester,  and  called  by  him  Placentia  or  Plaisance.  In 
it  Henry  VIII.  and  his  daughters,  Mary  and  Elizabeth,  were  born, 
and  here  Edward  VI.  died.  During  the  Commonwealth  the  palace 
was  removed.  In  1667  Charles  II.  began  to  rebuild  it,  but  he  only 
completed  the  wing  which  is  named  after  him.  Twenty  years  later, 
after  the  accession  of  William  III.,  the  building  was  resumed,  and 
in  1694  the  palace  was  converted  into  a  hospital  for  aged  and  dis- 
abled sailors.  The  number  of  inmates  accommodated  in  the  hospital 
reached  its  highest  point  (2710)  in  1814,  but  afterwards  decreased 
considerably.  In  1865  the  number  was  1400,  and  of  these  nearly 
1000  took  advantage  of  a  resolution  of  the  Admiralty,  which  gave 
the  pensioners  the  option  of  remaining  in  the  hospital  or  of  receiv- 
ing an  out-door  pension,  and  chose  the  latter  alternative.  Since  1869 
there  have  been  no  pensioners  left  The  revenue  of  the  hospital 
amounts  to  about  188,000^.  per  annum,  being  derived  mainly  from 
landed  property  and  Indian  railway-shares ;  and  about  12,000  seamen 
and  marines  derive  benefit  from  it  in  one  form  or  another.  The  funds 
also  support  Greenwich  Hospital  School  (p.  394).  The  hospital  has 
been  used  since  1873  as  a  Royal  Naval  College,  for  the  instruction 
of  naval  officers ;  but  many  of  the  suites  of  rooms  are  at  present 
unoccupied.  The  expenses  of  the  college  and  the  maintenance  of  the 
building  are  defrayed  by  votes  of  Parliament. 

The  building  consists  of  four  blocks  or  sections.  On  the  side 
next  the  river  are  the  W.  or  King  CnAnLBs  Building,  with  the 
library,  and  the  E.  or  Qubrn  Anne  Building,  which  now  contains 


from  London.  38.  GREENWICH.  393 

a  naval  mnseam.  These  axe  both  in  the  Corinthian  style.  Behind  are 
the  S.W.  01  Kino  William  Bthlding,  and  the  S.E.  or  Qubbn  Mabt 
BmLDiNO,  each  furnished  with  a  dome  in  Wren's  style.  The  Bivtt 
Terrace,  860  ft.  long,  is  emhellished  with  two  granite  obelisks,  one 
in  commemoration  of  the  marine  officers  and  men  who  fell  in  the 
New  Zealand  rebellion  of  1863-64 ;  and  the  other  (of  red  granite) 
In  honour  of  Lieuitnani  Bellot,  a  French  naval  officer,  who  lost  his 
life  in  a  search  for  Franklin.  The  quadrangle  in  the  centre  contains 
a  marble  statue  of  George  II.  y  in  Roman  costume,  by  Rysbrach ;  an 
Elizabethan  gun  found  in  the  Medway  and  supposed  to  have  be- 
longed to  a  ship  sunk  by  the  Dutch  in  1667;  and  a  gun  which  was 
on  board  the  *Victory'  at  Trafalgar  (1805).  In  the  upper  quadrangle 
is  a  colossal  bust  of  Nelson,  by  Chantrey.  —  On  the  S.W.  side  is 
the  Seamen  8  Hospital,  for  sailors  of  all  nationalities,  transferred 
hither  in  1865  from  the  Dreadnought,  an  old  man-of-war  formerly 
stationed  in  the  Thames. 

The  Painted  Hall  (see  below)  is  open  to  the  public  daily  ftrom 
10  (on  Sun.  from  2)  to  4,  6,  or  6,  and  the  Chapel  and  Royal  Museum 
are  open  daily,  except  Sun.  and  Frid.,  at  the  same  hours. 

The  chief  feature  of  the  King  William  section  is  the  Painted 
Hall,  106  ft.  long,  50  ft.  broad,  and  50  ft.  high,  with  the  Naval 
Gallery  of  pictures  and  portraits  commemorating  the  naval  victories 
and  heroes  of  Great  Britain.  The  paintings  on  the  wall  and  ceiling 
were  executed  by  Sir  James  Thomhill  in  1707-27.  The  Descriptive 
Catalogue  (price  3el.)  supplies  brief  biographical  and  historical  data. 

The  Vestibule  contains,  amongst  other  pictures,  15,  13.  Portraits  of 
Oolombus  and  Andrea  Doria  (from  Italian  originals)  \  16.  Vasco  da  Gama 
(from  a  Portuguese  original);  14.  Duquesne,  \)j  Steviben;  17.  Vice-Admiral 
Benbow,  by  Sir  Qo^frep  Knellert  statues  of  Admirals  St.  Vincent,  Howe, 
ITelson,  and  Duncan;  a  memorial  tablet  to  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his 
companions,  executed  by  Wettmaeott  (on  the  left)  *,  and  a  painting  (Ko.  11) 
of  the  turret-ship  ^Devastation*  at  a  naval  review  in  honour  of  the  Shah 
of  Persia  (1873),  by  £,  W.  Cooke  (to  the  right).  —  The  Hall.  The  four 
comers  are  filled  with  marble  statues :  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  Adm. 
de  Saumares,  hj  Sir  John  Steell ;  to  the  right,  Gapt.  Sir  William  Peel,  by 
Theed;  to  the  left  of  the  exit,  Viscount  Exmouth,  by  Maedowell;  to  the 
right,  Adm.  Sir  Sidney  Smith,  by  Kirk.  The  numbering  of  the  pictures 
begins  in  the  corner  to  the  right.  Among  the  most  interesting  are  the 
following:  31.  Hawkins,  Drake,  and  Cavendish,  a  group  after  Mytens; 
Loutherbourg ,  83.  Destruction  of  the  Spanish  Armada  in  1588,  48.  Lord 
Howe's  victory  at  Ushant;  43.  4fter  Hoppner,  Lord  St.  Vincent;  47.  Briggi, 
Oeorge  III.  presenting  a  sword  to  Lord  Howe  in  commemoration  of  the 
victory  at  TTshant  in  1794;  49.  After  Oainthorovgh,  Admiral  Hood:  54.  Drwn- 
mond.  Battle  of  Gamperdown  (1797);  61.  Reynoldi,  Lord  Bridport;  67. 
Chamber*  ib,iX%T  Benjamin  West)^  Battle  of  La  Hogue,  1692;  65.  KneUer, 
George,  Duke  of  Gumberland ;  72.  Dance,  Gaptain  Gook;  73.  Zoffany,  Death 
of  Gaptain  Gook  in  1779;  74.  Lely,  James  II. ;  76.  Fearce,  Sir  James  Clark 
Boss ;  78.  Oaineborovgh.  Barl  of  Sandwich;  80.  Tilly  Kettle,  Adm.  Kempen- 
feldt;  92.  T.  M.  Joy,  Sir  Charles  Napier;  100.  After  Hoppner,  Nelson;  104. 
DevU,  Death  of  Nelson  in  1806;  105.  Turner,  Battle  of  Trafalgar;  106. 
H.  Howard,  Lord  GoUingwood ;  107.  Geroff,  Capt.  G.  Duff;  110.  Arnold,  Battle 
of  the  Nile;  116.  Jonee,  Battle  of  St.  Vincent;  Lely,  121.  Monk,  Duke  of 
Albemarle,  124.  Sir  W.  Penn;  127.  Sir  Wm.  Allan,  Nelson  boarding  the 
*San  Nicolas'  at  the  Battle  of  St.  Vincent,  1797.  —  In  the  Uppbb  Hall  are 


394  38.    GREENWICH.  ExeurHons 

busts  of  CLefi)  Rivers,  Qoodenougb,  Tschitcliagoff  (a  Bossian  admiral),  Sir 
Joseph  Banks,  Blake,  William  IV.,  Adam,  Vernon,  l^elson,  and  Liardet. 
The  upper  hall  also  contains  glass-cases  with  relics  of  Nelson,  including 
the  coat  and  waistcoat  he  wore  at  Trafalgar,  when  he  received  his  death- 
wound ;  the  coat  he  wore  at  the  battle  of  the  Kile;  his  pig-tail,  cut  off 
after  death;  an  autograph  letter;  a  Turkish  gun  and  sabre  presented  to 
him  after  the  battle  of  the  Nile ;  the  silken  hangines  of  his  hammock,  etc. 
Of  many  Nelson  relics  stolen  from  this  hall  in  1900  a  few  were  recovered 
in  190A.  —  The  Nelboit  Booh  (to  the  left  of  the  upper  hall)  contains  pictures 
by  West  and  others  in  honour  of  the  heroic  Admiral,  a  series  of  portraits 
of  his  contemporaries,  a  portrait  of  Qeneral  Barrington  by  Beynolds^  etc. 

In  the  S.E.  orQaeenMary  edifice  is  the  Chapel,  which  contains 
an  altar-piece  by  West,  representing  St.  Paul  shaking  the  viper  off  his 
hand  after  his  shipwreck,  and  monuments  of  Adm.  Sir  R.  Keats, 
by  Chantreyy  and  Adm.  Sir  Thomas  Hardy,  by  Behnes. 

The  Royal  Naval  Museum,  in  the  E.  or  Queen  Anne  wing«(ad- 
mission  free),  contains  models  of  ships,  rigging,  and  various  ap- 
paratus; relics  of  the  Franklin  expedition ;  mementoes  of  Nelson; 
a  model  of  the  Battle  of  Trafalgar;  a  number  of  paintings  and 
drawings,  etc. 

At  the  Royal  Naval  School,  lying  between  the  hospital  and 
Greenwich  Park ,  1000  sons  of  British  seamen  and  marines  are 
maintained  and  educated. 

To  the  S.  of  Greenwich  is  ♦Greenwich  Park  (PI.  G,  71),  174 
acres  in  extent,  laid  out  during  the  reign  of  Charles  II.  by  the 
celebrated  Le  N6tre.  The  park,  with  its  fine  old  chestnuts  and 
hawthorns  (in  blossom  in  May)  and  herds  of  tame  deer,  is  a  favourite 
resort  of  Londoners  of  the  middle  classes  on  Sundays  and  holidays, 
particularly  on  Good  Friday,  Easter  Monday,  and  Whit  -  Monday. 
A  hill  in  the  centre,  180  ft.  in  height,  is  crowned  by  the  famons 
Greenwich  Royal  Observatory  ('astronomical'  visitors  sometimes  ad- 
mitted on  application  to  the  Director,  Sir  W.  H.  M.  Christie),  founded 
in  1675,  from  the  meridian  of  which  English  astronomers  make  their 
calculations.  The  new  building  was  completed  in  1899.  About 
360  yds.  to  the  E.  is  the  Magnetic  Pavilion,  placed  here  to  avoid  the 
disturbance  of  the  instruments  that  would  be  caused  by  the  iron  in 
the  main  building.  The  correct  time  for  the  whole  of  England  is 
settled  here  every  day  at  1  p.m.;  a  large  coloured  ball  descends  many 
feet,  and  the  time  is  telegraphed  hence  to  the  most  important  towns 
throughout  the  country.  The  fine  astronomical  apparatus  in  the  ob- 
servatory includes  a  28-inch  refracting  telescope  and  a  26-inch 
photographic  telescope.  A  large  number  of  chronometers  are  tested 
here  annually.  A  standard  clock  (with  the  hours  numbered  from 
1  to  24)  and  various  standard  measures  of  length  are  fixed  just 
outside  the  entrance,  pro  bono  publico.  The  terrace  in  front  of  the 
observatory  and  the  other  elevated  portions  of  the  park  command 
an  extensive  and  varied  view  over  the  river,  bristling  with  the  masts 
of  vessels  all  the  way  to  London ,  over  ihe  Hainault  and  Epping 
Forests,  backed  by  the  hills  of  Hampstead,  and  over  the  plain  extend- 
ing to  the  N.  of  the  Thames  and  intersected  by  docks  and  canals. 


from  London.  39.  WOOLWICH.  395 

On  a  hill  to  the  E.  of  the  observatory  some  interesting  remains 
of  a  Roman  house  were  found  in  1902,  tending  to  support  the  theory 
that  the  Roman  road  to  Dover  crossed  Greenwich  Park.  The  u«ual 
belief  is  that  this  road  intersected  Blackheath,  a  common,  now 
267  acres  in  extent,  bounding  Greenwich  Park  on  the  S.  and  S.E. 
On  Blackheath  Wat  Tyler  in  1381  and  Jack  Cade  in  1460  assembled 
the  rebellious  *men  of  Kent',  grown  Impatient  under  hard  depri- 
vations, for  the  purpose  of  attacking  the  Metropolis,  and  here  belated 
travellers  were  not  nnfrequently  robbed  in  former  times.  Black- 
heath  Qolf  Cluh^  founded  in  1608,  is  the  oldest  existing  golf  club 
in  the  world,  and  the  heath  is  still  frequented  by  golfers,  though 
better  ^links'  have  been  laid  out  within  the  last  few  years  in  many 
other  spots  near  London  (comp.  p.  53).  —  To  the  S.  of  Blackheath, 
beyond  the  Blackheath  Station  of  the  S.  E.R.,  lies  Lee,  in  the 
churchyard  of  which  is  the  grave  of  Edmund  Halley  (d.  1742),  the 
astronomer. 

39.  Woolwich. 

Woohrieh  may  he  reached  by  Stecmiboat^  see  B.  37  ^  or  by  Railieatf 
in  26-46  min.  from  Chearing  Crou  (trains  every  20  min.;  fares  1«.  6c{.,  !«., 
9<{.)f  Cannon  Strut,  or  London  Bridfft,  There  are  three  railway-stations  at 
Woolwich :  Woolioich  Dockyard  (to  tlie  W.),  Wooltoidi  Arsenal  (near  the  Ar- 
senal), and  Woolteich  Town,  besides  Jforth  Wooltcich  (p.  144),  on  the  X.  bank 
of  the  Thames.  The  last,  whence  there  is  a  free  ferry  to  Woolwich,  may 
be  reached  by  rail  from  Iwerpool  Street  or  Fendmreh  Strut.  —  A  tramway 
(No.  58}  p.  24)  connects  Woolwich  with  Greenwich. 

Woohjoich  (King's  Arms,  near  the  Dockyard  Station;  Royal 
Mortar,  near  the  Arsenal  Gates)  is  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Thames,  9  M.  below  London  Bridge.   Pop.  (1901)  117,178. 

The  Royal  Arsenal  ,  one  of  the  most  imposing  establishments 
in  existence  for  the  manufacture  of  materials  of  war ,  is  shown  on 
Tues.  and  Thurs.  between  10  and  11.30,  and  2  and  4.30,  by  tickets, 
obtained  at  the  War  Office,  Whitehall,  or  from  the  Chief  Super- 
intendent atthe  Arsenal.  Foreigners  must  receive  special  permission 
by  application  through  their  ambassador.  The  chief  departments 
are  the  Eoyal  Qun  Factory,  established  in  1716  by  a  German  named 
Schalch  (the  new  Woolwich  guns  are  not  cast,  but  formed  of  forged 
steel  and  wire) ;  the  Royal  Laboratory  for  making  cartridges  and 
projectiles;  the  Eoyal  Carriage  Department;  and  the  Army  Ordnance 
Department.  The  arsenal  covers  an  area  of  over  600  acres,  and  in 
1902  afforded  employment  to  about  25,000  persons.  —  The  Dockyard, 
established  by  Henry  VIII.  in  1632,  was  closed  in  1869,  but  is  still 
used  for  military  stores.   It  lies  to  the  W.  of  the  pier. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Dockyard  Station,  and  higher  up  the  slope,  lie 
the  Red  Barracks,  eight  buildings  connected  by  a  corridor,  and  now 
partly  occupied  by  the  Royal  Ordnance  College  for  training  officers 
for  Staff  appointments.  Still  higher  up,  at  the  N.  end  of  Woolwich 
Common,  are  the  Royal  Artillery  Barracks,  1200  ft.  in  length,  with 
accommodation  for  4000  men  and  1000  horses.     In  front  of  the 


396  40.  DULWICH.  Excursions 

building  aie  placed  several  pieces  of  ordnance,  including  a  cannon 
16^2  ft.  long,  cast  in  1677  foi  the  Emperoi  Auiungzebe,  and 
*looted'  at  Bhurtpore  in  1827 ;  and  a  Statue  of  Victory ^  by  John 
Bell,  in  memory  of  the  artillery  officers  and  men  who  fell  in  the 
Crimea.  —  To  the  £.  are  the  BoycU  Artillery  Jnstitutionj  the  Army 
Service  Corps  Barracks^  and  St,  George's^  the  garrison- church. 

Woolwich  Common  J  which  extends  hence  to  the  S.W.  for  about 
1  M.,  is  used  for  the  manoeuvres  of  the  garrison.  On  its  N.W.  side 
stands  the  Royal  Military  Repository,  where  soldiers  are  instructed 
in  pontooning,  etc.  Within  its  limits  is  the  Rotunda  (113  ft.  in 
diameter),  containing  a  military  museum,  with  models  of  fortifi- 
cations and  designs  and  specimens  of  artillery  (open  to  the  public 
daily  10  to  12.45  and  2  to  4  or  5). 

The  Rotunda  was  built  by  Nash  ia  1814  as  an  outer  casing  for  a  canvas 
pavilion,  in  which  a  brilliant  gathering  was  held  in  London  on  the  pro- 
clamation of  peace  in  that  year,  Wellington,  Bliicher,  the  Czar  of  Russia, 
the  King  of  Prussia,  and  many  other  distinguished  men  being  present.  The 
canvas  walls  and  ceiling  are  seen  in  the  interior. 

The  Royal  Military  Academy,  established  in  1719,  and  trans- 
ferred in  1806  to  the  present  building  on  the  S.E.  side  of  Woolwich 
Common,  trains  cadets  for  the  Koyal  Engineers  or  Royal  Artillery. 

On  the  opposite  (W.)  side  of  the  Common  are  the  Shrapnel  Bar- 
racks  for  two  field-batteries;  and  at  the  S.  end  is  the  huge  military 
Herbert  Hospital,  built  in  1865.  The  extensive  Telegraphic  Works 
of  Siemens  JSrothers,  where  submarine  cables  are  made ,  are  worth 
visiting  (card  of  admission  necessary,  procured  at  the  London  office, 
12  Queen  Anne's  Gate,  by  visitors  provided  with  an  introduction). 

About  IY2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Woolwich  Common  rises  Shooters^ 
Hill,  a  conspicuous  eminence,  commanding  an  extensive  and  charm- 
ing view  of  the  richly- wooded  plains  of  Kent. 

On  Shooters'  Hill,  not  far  from  the  Herbert  Hospital  (see  above),  is 
Sevemdroog  Castle,  a  triangular  tower  erected  in  1781  by  his  widow  to  the 
memory  of  Sir  William  James  (1721-83),  who  distinguished  himself  by  the 
capture  of  Sevemdroog  (1775)  and  other  exploits  in  the  Indian  Seas. 

40.  Lnlwich.    The  Crystal  Palace. 

Dulwich,  5  M.  to  the  S.  of  St.  Paul's  and  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Crystal 
Palace,  is  most  conveniently  reached  from  Victoria  Station  (p.  27 x  S.E. 
&  G.  Railway)  in  20  min.,  or  from  St.  Paul  s  Station  (p.  28)  in  25-30  min. 
(fares  9d.,  Id.,  bd. ;  return-tickets  it.,  lOd.,  8rf.). 

Trains  for  the  Crystal   Palace   leave  London  Bridge  Station  (p.  29), 

rlrrnta     TTfll      Ctntlnn     fn       OQ^        TT/^IVk/^STi      XT'!  o  rlil  i^t     Gtof-irwn     fry      HQA        n«/1     \Tia*r^..i^ 


Ludgate  Hill  Station  (p.  28),  Holborn  Viaduct  Station  (p.  28),  and  Victoria 
Station  (p.  27)  nearly  every  y*  hr.  Fares  from  Victoria,  U.  3i.,  U.,  and  7d.  ; 
return-tickets  2«.,  is.  Qd.,  is. ;  return-tickets  including  admission  to  the 


Palace  (on  the  is.  days)  2s.  6d.,  2<.,  and  is.  9<l.  Frequent  trains  also  run 
from  Addison  Road,  Kensington  (fares  is.  2d.,  is.  4d.,  9d.),  on  the  North 
London  Railway  (p.  27).  Through-tickets,  with  or  without  admission  to 
the  Palace,  are  issued  at  all  stations  on  the  ITorth  London  and  the  Metro- 
politan lines,  and  a  glance  at  the  Railway  Plan  of  London  in  the  Appendix 
will  enable  the  visitor  to  choose  his  route.  There  are  two  stations  at  the 
Crystal  Palace,  both  equally  convenient:  The  High  Level  Station  of  the  S.E. 
&  Chatham  Railway,  and  the  Lote  Level  Station  of  the  Loudon,  Brighton, 
&  S.  Coast  Railway. 


from  London,  40.  DULWICH.  397 

An  expedition  to  Dalwich  may  be  conveniently  combined  with  a  visit 
to  the  Crystal  Palace,  the  morning  being  spent  at  Dulwich.  Luncheon  may 
be  obtained  at  either  place.  Visitors  approaching  the  Palace  by  railway 
from  Dulwich  alight  at  Sydenham  Hill  Station^  V2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
Palace. 

On  leaving  the  station  at  Dalwich  we  tarn  to  the  right.  Aftci 
proceeding  for  abont  100  paces  we  observe  in  front  of  us  the  new 
building  of  Bulwioh  College,  a  handsome  red  brick  structure  in 
the  Renaissance  style,  built  in  1870  at  a  cost  of  100,000^ 

The  College  of  God's  Oifi  at  Dulwich  was  founded  in  1619,  by  Edward 
Alleyn,  the  actor,  a  friend  of  Shakspeare,  and  included  an  almshouse. 
The  school  was  reorganized  in  1807  and  1882  and  now  comprises  this 
New  College^  providine  an  upper  grade  education  for  640  boys,  and  a  Lower 
Grade  School^  abont  1  K.  to  the  K.,  under  separate  management,  where 
only  nominal  fees  are  charged. 

Gallery  Road,  a  broad  road  diverging  to  the  left  (N.)  before  the 
New  College,  leads  in  6  min.  to  the  old  college-buildings  and 
*Bulwieh  Picture  Oallery,  the  entrance  to  which  is  indicated  by 
a  notice  on  a  lamp-post.  Apart  from  some  unimportant  paintings 
bequeathed  to  the  College  by  Alleyn  and  by  William  Cartwright 
(d.  1688),  the  present  valuable  collection  was  formed  by  Noel 
Desenfans  (d.  1807),  a  picture-dealer  in  London,  and  left  by  him 
to  Sir  P.  F.  Bourgeois  J  the  painter  (d.  1811),  who  in  turn  bequeathed 
it  to  God's  Gift  College,  along  with  17,500^.  for  its  maintenance 
and  the  erection  of  a  suitable  gallery  to  contain  it.  Admission, 
see  p.  82. 

This  collection  possesses  a  few  excellent  Spanish  works  by  Murillo 
(1618-82)  and  one  by  his  master  Velatqueg  (1699-1660),  and  also  some 
good  examples  of  the  French  school  (particularly  N.  Poutsin^  1591-1666, 
and  Watteauy  1684-1721);  while,  among  Italian  schools,  later  masters 
only  (such  as  the  Academic  school  of  the  Caracci  at  Bologna)  are  re- 
presented. The  small  pictures  catalogued  as  by  Raphael  have  been, 
unfortunately,  freely  retouched.  The  glory  of  the  gallery,  however, 
consists  in  its  admirable  collection  of  Dutch  paintings,  several  masters 
being  excellently  illustrated  both  in  number  and  qui^ity.  For  instance, 
no  other  collection  in  the  world  possesses  so  many  paintings  (fifteen)  by 
Albert  Cuyp  (1606-72),  the  great  Dutch  landscape  and  animal  painter.  The 
chief  power  of  Cuyp,  who  has  been  named  the  Dutch  Claude,  lies  in  his 
brilliant  and  picturesque  treatment  of  atmosphere  and  light.  Similar  in 
style  are  the  works  01  the  brothers  Jan  and  Andrew  Both^  also  well  re- 
presented in  this  gallery,  who  resided  in  Italy  and  imitated  Claude.  Andrew 
supplied  the  figures  to  the  landscapes  of  his  brother  Jan  (Utrecht,  1610-66). 
The  ten  examples  of  PAtIip«  Wouvei^an  (Haarlem,  1620-68),  the  most  eminent 
Dutch  painter  of  battles  and  hunting-scenes,  include  specimens  of  his 
early  manner  (l^os.  193  and  77),  as  well  as  others  exhibiting  the  brilliant 
eflTects  of  his  later  period.  Among  the  fine  examples  of  numerous  other 
masters,  two  genuine  works  by  Rembrandt  (16(f7-69)  are  conspicuous 
CNos.  99  and  168).  About  twenty  pictures  here  were  formerly  assigned 
to  Rubent  (1677-1640),  but  traces  of  an  inferior  hand  are  visible  in  most 
of  them.  Among  the  works  of  Flemish  masters  the  large  canvasses  of 
Rubens'  rival  Van  Dyek  (1699-1641),  and  those  of  Tenter*  the  Elder  (Ant- 
werp, 1582-1649)  and  Teniere  the  Younger  (1610-94),  call  for  special  notice. 
The  specimens  of  the  last-named,  one  of  the  most  prominent  of  all  genre 
painters,  will  in  particular  well  repay  examination.  —  Catalogue  (1892; 
1<.),  with  biographies  of  the  painters,  by  /.  P.  Riehter  and  /.  Sparkee. 
The  numbers  given  below  in  brackets  are  those  of  earlier  catalogues  and 
aM  still  shewn  on  the  pictures,  alo.ig  with  the  new  numbers  in  red. 


398  40.   DULWICn.  Excursion« 

Boom  I.  On  the  left:  2  (884).  Bolognete  School,  St.  Cecilia;  3,  5 
(8,  10).  W.  Romeyn  (Utrecht,  pupil  of  Berchem;  d.  16G2K  Landscapes 
with  Agnresi  4  (9).  Cuyp,  Landscape  with  cattle;  10,  15  (199.  205).  Jan 
and  Andrew  Both,  Landscapes  with  figures  and  cattle;  16  (178).  iScJiool  of 
8.  Ruytdaely  Landscape  with  figures;  23,  26  (16,  15).  Bartolomeo  Bvewborg 
(of  Utrecht,  settled  in  Borne ;  d.  after  1663),  Small  landscapes ;  25  (li). 
Com.  van  Poelenburg  (Utrecht;  d.  1667),  Dancing  nymph ;  *81,  *88  (155,  61). 
Teniers  the  Elder,  Landscapes  with  figures;  *34,  *36  (64,  68).  IHeler  Wouver- 
man,  Landscapes;  35  (52).  Teniert  the  Elder,  Cottage  and  figures;  314  (35). 
Teniers  the  Elder,  Landscace.  with  the  repentant  Peter.  45  (107).  Adriaen 
van  Ostade  (Haarlem*,  d.  1686),  Interior  of  a  cottage  with  figures;  46  (365). 
Antonio  Belued  (d.  1726).  St.  Sebastian  with  Faith  and  Charity;  «47(147).  Jan 
WeaUx  (Amsterdam,  1640-1719;  son  and  pupil  of  Jan  Baptist  Weenix), 
Landscape  with  accessories,  dated  1664 ;  49  (84).  Teniers  the  Elder,  Bead 
near  a  cottage;  50  (85).  Breketenkam,  Old  woman  eating  porridge;  52  (86). 
Teniere  the  Elder,  Cottage  with  figures;  54  (50).  Tet^re  the  Younger,  Guard- 
room; *56  (106).  Gerard  Dou,  Lady  playing  on  a  keyed  instrument;  62 
(329).  Bponieh  School,  Christ  bearing  the  cross;  Oufp,  *65  (114).  White 
horse  in  a  riding-school,  71  (156).  Two  horses.  —  Boom  VII,  to  the  left 
of  B.  I,  contains  the  Qarttoright  Collection  of  Portraits. 

Boom  II.  On  the  left:  68  (113).  WUlem  van  de  Velde  the  Younger 
(Amsterdam;  d.  1707),  Calm;  63(5).  Cuyp,  Cows  and  sheep,  an  early 
work;  ^77,  78.  *79  (125,  173,  126).  Philips  Wouverman,  Landscapes  with 
figures;  81  (124).  Van  Dyek,  Charity;  Adam  Pynacker  (of  Pynacker,  near 
Delft,  settled  in  Italy;  d.  1673),  86  (130).  Landscape  with  sportsmen,  183 
(150).  Landscape  with  figures;  *87  (131).  Meindert  ffobbema  (Amsterdam; 
d.  1709),  Landscape  with  a  water-mill ;  90  (135).  Van  Dych,  Virgin  and 
Infant  Saviour  (repetitions  at  Dresden  and  elsewhere);  Wouverman,  92 
(137).  Farrier  and  an  old  convent  (engraved  under  the  title  *Le  Golombier 
du  Mar^chaD,  182  (228).  Peasants  in  the  fields ;  95  (139).  Teniers  the  Younger, 
Chateau  with  the  family  of  the  proprietor;  96  (l4l).  Cuyp,  Landscape 
with  figures ;  *97  (144).  Wouverman,  Halt  of  travellers;  102  (143).  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds  (d.  1792),  Mother  and  sick  child. 

*103  (166).  W.  van  de  Velde,  Brisk  gale  ofi"  the  Texel. 

'A  warm  evening -light,  happily  blended  with  the  delicate  silver 
tone  of  the  master,  and  of  the  most  exquisite  finish  in  all  the  parts,  makes 
this  one  of  his  most  charming  pictures."  —  W. 

105  (154).  /.  Ruysdael,  Waterfall,  painted  in  an  unusually  broad  manner; 
*108  (54).  Adriaen  Brouwer  (Haarlem,  pupil  of  F.  Hals,  d.  1640),  Interior 
of  an  ale-house,  a  genuine  specimen  of  a  scarce  master ;  112  (116).  Teniere 
the  Elder,  Winter-scene;  114,  *117  (12,  11).  Jan  Wynants  (Haarlem,  d. 
1682),  Landscapes;  *115  (190).  A.  van  Ostade,  Boors  making  merry,  'of 
astonishing  depth,  clearness,  and  warmth  of  colour";  120  (140).  Jan  van 
Buysum  (Amsterdam,  d.  1749),  Flowers;  122  (160).  Nic.  Berchem  (Uhexl^m^ 
d.  1683),  Wood-scene ;  Cuyp,  *245  (83).  Landscape  with  figures  (bright  and 
calm  sunlight),  *124,  **128  (163,  169).  Landscapes  with  cattle  and  figures; 
127  (168).  School  of  Rubens.  Samson  and  Delilah;  133  (176).  Van  Borseom, 
Landscape  with  cattle;  131  (182).  Rubens,  Helen  Fourment,  the  artistes 
second  wife;  *99  (189).  Rembrandt^  Portrait,  early  work,  dated  1632;  61 
(72).  Adriaen  van  de  Velde  (Amsterdam;  d.  1572),  Landscape  with  cattle; 
137  (159).  Salvator  Rosa  (Naples  and  Borne;  d.  1673),  Landscape. 

Booh  III.  On  the  left:  *146  (60).  Teniers  the  Younger,  Sow  and  pigs; 
147  (191).  Adriaen  van'der  Werff  (court-painter  to  the  Elector  Palatine; 
d.  1722),  Judgment  of  Paris;  *155  (196).  Jan  van  der  Heyde  (Amsterdam, 
d.  1712),  Landscape,  figures  by  A.  van  de  Velde. 

152  (194).  Velatquee,  Portrait  of  the  Prince  of  Astnrias,  son  of 
Philip  IV.,  a  copy  of  the  original  at  Kadrid. 

*156  (210).  Antaine  Watteau  (Paris,  d.  1721),  Le  bal  champdtre;  157, 
166  (200,  209).  Berehem,  Landscapes;  188(363).  School  ofLeBrun^  Koliftze; 
•167  (197).  A.  Watteau,  La  fgte  champStre;  *168  (241).  J.  Ruysdael,  Land- 
scape with  mills ;  171  (215).  Wilson ,  Tivoli ;  173  (218).  After  Van  Dyck, 
Portrait;  144  (243).   Ou^,  Landscape  near  Dort,  with  cattie;  12  (41).  Jan 


f^om  London.  40.   DULWICH.  399 

and  Andrew  Boih^  Landacape  with  figures  and  cattle  \  181  (146).  Cupp^  Winter- 
scene  \  *82  (229).  Karel  du  Jardin  (Amsterdam,  pupil  of  Berchem,  painted 
at  Rome;  d.  1678),  Smith  shoeing  an  ox;  197  (186).  W.  van  de  Veld*.  Calm; 
^  (90).  Jan  and  Andrew  Both,  Landscape  with  figures  and  cattle ;  *192  (239). 
Cuppf  Landscape  near  Dort,  with  cattle. 

Rook  IV.  On  the  left:  *1^  (248).  MuHUo.  Spanish  flower-girl;  202 
(202).  Charlet  X<  Brun  (pupil  of  K.  Poussin ;  d.  1690),  Kassacre  of  the  Inno- 
cents; 194  (242).  Van  Dych,  Lady  Venetia  Digby,  token  after  death;  *20& 
(244).  Claude  Lerrain  (d.  16S?),  Landscape,  with  Jacob  and  Laban  (*one  of 
the  most  genuine  Claudes  I  know\  writes  Mr.  Raskin);  *303  (36).  Both^ 
Landscape;  *210  (278).  Ruyidael^  Landscape,  with  figures  by  ^.  van  de 
Velde;  213  (269).  Qaepar  Poussin  (pupil  of  IT.  Poussin;  d.  1670),  Destruc- 
tion of  ITiobe  and  her  children;  *215  (275).  Claude^  Italian  seaport;  216 
(271).  Satvalor  Rosos  Soldiers  gaming  ('very  spirited,  and  in  a  deep  glowing 
tone*) ;  220  (tTTO).  Claude,  Embarkation  of  St.  Paula  at  Ostta.  —  *222  (283). 
MwUlo,  Two  Spanish  peasant  boys  and  a  negro  boy  ('very  natural  and 
animated,   defined  in  the  forms,  and  painted  in  a  eolden  warm  tone'). 

—  *334  (286).  MuHllo,  Two  Spanish  peasant  boys.  N.  Poussin,  227  (291). 
Adoration  of  the  Kagi ;  229  (295).  Inspiration  of  Anacreon.  230(336).  Annibale 
Caraeei  (Bologna;  d.  1609),  Virgin,  Infant  Christ,  and  St.  John.  JT.  Pous- 
tin,  234  (300).  Education  of  Jupiter;  236(305).  Triumph  of  David;  238 
(316).  Rinaldo  and  Armida,  from  Tasso;  240(310).  Flight  into  Egypt.  *241, 
*24S  (3(r7,  306).  Raphael,  SS.  Francis  of  Assisi  and  Anthony  of  Padua 
(retouched);  242  (337).  Carlo  Dolei  (Bologna;  d.  1686),  St.  Catharine  of 
Siena;  244(319).  Le  Brun,  Horatius  Codes  defending  the  bridge;  170(214). 
Van  Dyck^  Earl  of  Pembroke;  249  (309).  Velasques,  Portrait  of  Philip  IV. 
of  Spain. 

Room  V.  On  the  left:  251  (327).  Andrea  del  Sarto  (d.  1530),  Holy 
Family  (repetition  of  a  picture  in  the  Pitti  Palace  at  Florence,  and  ascribed 
bv  Mr.  Crowe  to  Salviati);  256  (287).  Umbrian  School,  Virgin  .and  Child; 
260  (226).  Italian  School^  Venus  gathering  apples  in  the  Garden  of  the 
Hesperides;  262  (331).  Guido  Reni  (d.  1642),  St.  John  in  the  wilderness; 
263  (336).  ir.  Poussin,  Assumption  of  the  Virgin;  264  (240).  Rubens,  The 
Graces;  267  (343).  After  Cristofano  Allori  (d.  1621),  Judith  with  the  head 
of  Holofemes;  268  (339).  After  O.  Reni,  St.  Sebastian;  271  (277).  School  of 
Cologne  y  Salvator  Mundi;  *270  (338).  Paolo  Veronese  (d.  1583),  Cardinal 
blessing  a  donor;  281  (347).  MuriUo,  La  Madonna  del  Rosario;  283  (249). 
Domeniehino,  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds ;  285  (351).  Rubens,  Venus,  Mars, 
and  Cupid,  a  late  work ;  290  (365).  School  of  Rubsm,  Portrait  of  an  old  lady. 

Room  VI.  On  the  left:  291  (53).  H.  P.  Briggs,  Charles  Kemblej  Qain$- 
borough,  303  (361).  Samuel  Linley,  140  (358).  Thomas  Linley,  831  (362). 
Son  of  Thomas  Linley;  67  (93).  Wouverman^  View  near  Scheveningen ;  299 
(46).  Teniers  the  Blder,  Landscape  with  shepherd  and  sheep;  178  (359).  Sir 
Thos.  Laun-ence  (d.  1830),  Portrait  of  Wm.  Linley,  the  author. 

*39  (104).  Com.  Dusart  (Haarlem,  d.  1704),  Old  buUding,  with  figures. 

A  remarkably  careful  and  choice  picture  by  this  scholar  of  Adriaen  van 

Ostade,  who  approaches  nearest  to  his  master  in  the  glow  of  his  colouring*. 

—  Waagen. 

816  (366).  Gainsborough,  Mrs.  Moodey  and  her  two  children  t  318(340). 
Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  Mrs.  Siddons  as  the  Tragic  Muse,  painted  in  1789.  — 
*320  (1).  Gainsborough,  Portraits  of  Mrs.  Sheridan  and  Mrs.  Tickell,  the 
daughters  of  Thomas  Linley. 

Mrs.  Tickell  sits  on  a  bank,  while  Mrs.  Sheridan  sUnds  half  behind 
her.  Waagen  characterizes  this  work  as  one  of  the  best  specimens  of 
the  master,  and  Mrs.  Jameson  says :  'The  head  of  Mrs.  Sheridan  is  exquisite, 
and, .  wiUiout  having  all  the  beauty  which  Sir  Joshua  gave  her  in  the 
famous  St.  Cecilia,  there  is  even  more  mind\ 

•822  (102).  Daniel  Seghers  (Antwerp;  d.  1661),  Flowers  encircling  a 
bas-relief. 

'A  very  admirable  picture  of  this  master,  so  justly  celebrated  in  his 
own  times,  and  whose  red  roses  still  flourish  in  their  original  beauty, 
while  those  of  the  later  painters,  De  Heem,  Huysum,  and  Rachel  Ruysch, 


400  40.  THE  CRYSTAL  PALACE.       Excursions 

have  more  or  less  changed.    The  vase  is  probably  by  Erasmus  QueUinus*. 
—  Waaffen, 

323  (34).  Tmiei's  the  Elder ^  Landscape,  with  the  Magdalen;  172  (183). 
NortheoU^  Sir  P.  F.  Bourgeois  (p.  397);  *163  (206).  Rembrandt^  A  girl  at  a 
window  i  66  (111).  Oatmhorough^  P.  T,  Loutherbourg,  R.  A. ;  389  (89).  LoiUher- 
bourgy  Landscape;  340  (112).  Aart  van  der  Nter  (Amsterdam;  d.  1691),  Moon- 
light-scene. 

The  adjacent  building,  at  one  time  the  school,  is  now  used  as 
offices  for  the  estate.  In  the  chapel  is  the  tomb  of  Alleyn,  the 
founder.  Adjoining  the  chapel  are  almshouses.  —  A  few  min.  walk 
to  the  N.  of  the  Picture  Gallery  is  the  village  of  Dulwich  (Greyhound 
Inn ;  Crown),  beyond  which  (8/^  M.  from  the  Gallery)  is  the  station 
of  North  Dulwich,  —  College  Road  leads  to  the  S.  from  the  Tillage 
to  (I'Vi  M.)  the  Crystal  Palace  (see  below),  passing  Dulwich  Park 
(72  acres) ,  on  the  right,  presented  to  the  public  in  1890  by  the 
governors  of  the  college,  (V2  M.)  Dulwich  College  (p.  397),  and 
(1  M.)  Sydenham  Hill  Station  (p.  397),  beside  which  is  St.  Stephen's 
Churchy  containing  a  fresco  by  Sir  E.  J.  Poynter,  P.  R.  A. 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  Dulwich,  near  Heme  Hill  Station^  is  Brockwell 
Pari  (100  acres),  opened  to  the  public  in  1892  and  extended  in  1902.  John 
Buskin  spent  his  youth  (1823-40)  at  28  Heme  Hill  (now  a  school),  where  he 
wrote  the  first  two  volumes  of  'Modern  Painters\  He  afterwards  removed 
to  163  Denmark  Hill    a  little  to  the  1^.,  near  Rusldn  Park. 


The  Crystal  Palace  is  situated  at  Sydenham,  2  M.  to  the  S.  of 
Dulwich  and  8  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Charing  Cross.  Designed  by  Sir 
Joseph  Paxton,  it  consists  entirely  of  glass  and  iron.  It  was  con- 
structed mainly  with  the  materials  of  the  first  great  Industrial 
Exhibition  of  1851  and  was  opened  in  1854.  It  comprizes  a 
spacious  central  hall  or  nave,  1608  ft.  long,  with  lateral  sections, 
two  aisles,  and  two  transepts.  (A  third  transept  at  the  N.  end,  which 
formed  a  palmhouse  of  imposing  dimensions,  was  burned  down  in 
1866.)  The  central  transept  is  390  ft.  long,  120  ft.  broad,  and  175  ft. 
high.  The  S.  transept  is  312  ft.  long,  72  ft.  broad,  and  110ft.  high. 
The  two  water-towers  at  the  ends  are  282  ft.  In  height.  The  cost 
of  the  whole  undertaking ,  including  the  magnificent  garden  and 
grounds,  and  much  additional  land  outsidOf  amounted  to  a  million 
and  a  half  sterling.  Though  the  Crystal  Palace  no  longer  bulks  so 
largely  among  the  lions  of  London  as  it  once  did,  half-a-day  may 
be  agreeably  spent  there  as  a  change  from  more  serious  sight-see- 
ing. The  principal  attractions  are  the  palace  itself,  as  an  interest- 
ing example  of  glass  and  iron  construction,  its  imposing  and  taste- 
fully arranged  interior,  the  excellent  casts  of  notable  works  of 
architecture  and  sculpture,  and,  not  least,  the  beautiful  gardens. 
Within  the  palace  are  various  side-shows  and  entertainments,,  and 
in  the  gardens  are  open-air  gymnasia,  a  switch-back  railway,  a 
topsy-turvy  railway,  a  maze,  a  wMer-carnival  pond,  swings,  etc. 
Flower-shows,  dog-shows,  cat-shows,  poultry-shows,  motor-shows, 
cycle- shows,  besides  cricket  and  football  matches  (p.  53),  etc., 


/Wwi  London.    40.  THE  CRYSTAL  PALACE. 


401 


& 

I 

I 


are  lield  from  time  to  time  at  the  palace,  and  admirable  conceits 
are  given  also.  A  great  display  of  fireworks  takes  place  every  Thurs. 
and  Sat.  evening  in  sammer,  often  attracting  10-20,000  visitors. 

The  Crystal  Palace  is  open  daily,  except       , 

San.,   from  10  am.   till  10  p.m.   in   summer 
(till  7.90  p.m.  in  winter)  i  adm.   !«.,  children 
under  twelve  6d.    Additional  admission  •  prices 
(Sd. -6d[.)    are    charged   for   special    entertain- 
ments and  side  shows.    There  are  restaurants, 
dining •  rooms,  buffets,  and  tea-rooms  to  suit 
all  parses ;  besides  reading  •  rooms  (adm.  2d.), 
smoking-rooms,    and   other 
conveniences      for     visitors. 
A  wheel -chair  and   attend- 
ant may  be  hired  at  U.  6d. 
per  hr.  within  the  palace  or 
2s.  per  hr.  in  the  grounds.  — 
Official   Gitide,  U  ,  with  il- 
lustrations ',   programme   for 
the  day  2<2. 

Approaching  from  the 
Low  Level  Station  (p.396) 
throngh  the  glass  arcade, 
720  ft.  in  length,  we  first 
enter  the  South  Tkan- 
SEPT,  whence,  opposite 
the  great  partition  (PI.  s), 
we  obtain  a  good  gener- 
al survey  of  the  Pa- 
lace (better  still  from  the 
clock -gallery  above  the 
partition).  The  effect  pro- 
duced by  the  contrast  be- 
tween the  green  foliage  of 
the  plants ,  distributed 
along  the  whole  of  the 
nave,  and  the  white  forms 
of  the  statuary  to  which 
they  form  a  background, 
is  most  pleasing.  Behind 
the  statues  are  the  richly- 
coloured  facades  of  the 
courts,  and  high  above  is 
the  light  and  airy  glass 
-vaulting  of  the  roof.  The 
whole  presents  a  magnifi- 
cent and  unique  view  of 
the  art  and  culture  of 
nations  which  are  widely 
separated  from  each  other 
In  time  and  space. 

Baedesicb^s  London.    15th  Edit. 


D 


s 

►^ 


ninn_-^S 


26 


402  40.  THE  CRYSTAL  PALACE.       Excursions 

In  recesses  In  the  partition  mentioned  on  p.  401  is  a  series  of 
plaster  casts  of  the  statues  of  English  monarchs  in  the  Honses  of 
Parliament  (see  p.  220).  A  little  farther  on  is  a  water-hasin  con- 
taining the  Crystal  Fountain  (by  Osier"),  -which  once  adorned  the 
original  Crystal  Palace  of  1851  in  Hyde  Park,  and  is  now  embellish ed 
with  aquatic  plants  and  ferns.  We  here  reach  the  Central  Hall,  the 
S.  part  of  which  is  flanked  with  so-called  Courts  (PI.  k-o),  used 
for  exhibitions  of  various  kinds  or  as  refreshment  rooms.  On  the  W. 
side  is  the  Pompbian  Court  (PI.  o),  which  is  intended  to  represent 
a  Roman  house  of  the  reign  of  Titus,  having  been  carefully  copied, 
both  in  form  and  pictorial  decoration,  from  a  building  excavated  at 
Pompeii.  Behind  the  courts  on  the  E .  side  are  the  Orill  Boom  and 
the  New  Dining  Room.  The  casts  from  modem  sculptures  are  ar- 
ranged for  the  most  part  In  the  S.  nave  and  transept,  and  those  from 
the  antique  in  the  N.  half  of  the  building.  —  On  the  left  (W.)  of 
the  Central  Transept  is  the  great  Handel  Orchestra,  which  can 
accommodate  4000  persons,  and  has  a  diameter  (216  ft.)  twice  as 
great  as  the  dome  of  St.  Paul's.  In  the  middle  is  the  powerful  or- 
gan, with  4384  pipes,  built  by  Gray  &  Davison  at  a  cost  of  6000i. 
and  worked  by  hydraulic  machinery  (performances  every  afternoon 
by  Mr.  W.  Hedgcock).  Opposite,  at  the  garden  end  of  the  transept, 
are  the  King's  Apartments,  The  Concert  Hall,  on  the  S.  side  of  these, 
in  which  good  concerts  are  given  from  time  to  time,  can  accom- 
modate an  audience  of  4000.  The  Theatre,  on  the  N.,  opposite  the 
Concert  Hall,  accommodates  2000  persons,  and  is  used  for  variety 
shows  and  pantomimes. 

On  each  side  of  the  N.  nave  is  a  range  of  *Court8  (PI.  a-i),  con- 
taining copies  of  the  architecture  and  sculpture  of  the  most  highly 
civilized  nations,  from  the  earliest  period  to  the  present  day,  ar- 
ranged in  chronological  order.  The  collection  of  casts,  especially 
those  in  the  Roman  court  (PI.  c),  ranks  among  the  best  in  the 
country ;  and  the  careful  reproductions  of  the  most  famous  architect- 
ural bits  of  the  different  epochs  merit  more  than  passing  inspection. 
The  three  Mediaeval  Courts  (PI.  g;  12-16th  cent.)  illustrate  German, 
English,  and  French  Gothic,  All  the  exhibits  are  distinctly  labelled. 

The  N.  end  of  the  Palace,  which,  like  the  other,  boasts  of  a 
handsome  *Fountaln  with  a  basin  of  aquatic  plants,  Is  used  as  a 
smoking  lounge.  A  staircase  descends  hence  to  the  right  by  the  buffet 
to  the  Aquarium  (trout  fed  at  4  p.m.).  Monkey  House,  and  gardens. 

The  prospect  from  the  platform  of  the  N.  Tower,  which  rises 
to  a  height  of  282  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  lowest  basins,  and  is 
ascended  by  a  winding  staircase  and  by  a  lift,  extends  into  eight 
counties,  and  embraces  the  whole  course  of  the  Thames  (ascent  by 
lift  Qd.,  children  3d.,  by  staircase  Sd.,  children  id,). 

Ascending  now  to  the  West  Gallery,  by  a  staircase  near  the 
Central  Transept  (W.  side),  we  find  to  our  right  (N.)  the  Portrait 
Gallery,  consisting  of  a  series  of  busts  of  eminent  men  of  all 


from  London.     40.  THE  CRYSTAL  PALACE.  403 

nations.  Passing  undei  the  clock  by  the  S.  Gallery,  T?e  reach  the 
East  Oallbbt,  the  S.  half  of  which  is  deyoted  to  a  series  of  Natural 
HUtory  Tableaux,  the  N.  half  to  a  series  of  Ethnological  Tableaux, 
The  *Oarde&Bt  covering  an  area  of  200  acres,  and  laid  out  in 
terraces  in  the  Italian  and  English  styles,  are  tastefully  emhellished 
with  flower-heds ,  shrubheries,  fountains,  cascades,  and  statuary. 
The  highest  Terrace,  the  balustrade  of  which  is  embellished  with 
26  marble  statues  representing  the  chief  countries  and  most  im- 
portant cities  in  the  world,  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  the  park 
and  of  the  rich  scenery  of  the  county  of  Kent.  The  two  great 
fountain  basins  have  been  converted  into  Spo&t  Abbnas,  each  about 
8^2  &cres  in  extent.  During  the  season  football,  cricket,  lawn  ten- 
nis, lacrosse,  and  other  games  are  played  here  (comp.  pp.  52, 53, 55). 
Various  other  fountains,  however,  still  remain  and  play  on  firework 
nights  (p.  401)  and  other  special  occasions.  —  The  •Gbological 
Depabtmbnt  in  the  S.E.  portion  of  the  park,  by  the  Boating  Lake, 
is  extremely  interesting  and  should  not  be  overlooked.  It  contains 
full-size  models  of  antediluvian  animals,  together  with  the  contempo- 
raneous geological  formations.  —  The  N.E.  part  of  the  park  is  laid 
out  as  a  Cbickbt  Gbound,  and  on  summer  afternoons  tile  game  at- 
tracts numerous  spectators.  This  is  the  headquarters  of  the  London 
County  Cricket  Club,  of  which  Dr.  W.  G.  Grace  is  captain.  The 
grounds  of  the  London  Polo  Club  (public  matches)  and  the  Football 
Ground  and  Cycle  Track  are  on  opposite  sides  of  the  Grand  Central 
Walk.  The  *cup- ties'  of  the  Football  Association  are  sometimes 
played  off  here  before  huge  assemblages  of  spectators.  —  Near  the 
Rosery  is  a  Panorama  (adm.  6d.). 

The  name  of  Sydenham  Wells  Park,  near  the  Crystal  Palace, 
opened  to  the  public  in  1901,  commemorates  some  mineral  springs, 
discovered  in  1640  and  more  or  less  fashionable  for  200  years. 
St.  Philip's  Church  now  stands  on  the  site  of  the  wells. 

In  the  London  Road,  Forest  Hill,  about  l*/4  M.  from  the  Crystal 
Palace  and  the  same  distance  from  the  Dulwich  Gallery  (p.  397), 
is  the  Homiman  Free  Museum  (open  daily,  2-9),  a  large  collection 
formed  by  Mr.  F.  J.  Homiman,  M.  P.,  originally  opened  in  1890 
(Curator,  Mr.  R.  Quick).  The  edifice  was  rebuilt  in  1900  and  handed 
over  with  its  contents  to  the  London  County  Council  in  1901.  The 
park  (15  acres)  is  also  open  to  tho  public.  The  collections  include 
china  and  porcelain,  ethnographical  curiosities,  historical  relics, 
carved  furniture,  enamels,  arms  and  armour,  fans,  musical  instru- 
ments, Greek,  Roman,  and  Egyptian  antiquities,  Oriental  objects, 
etc.  The  natural  history  department  Includes  an  interesting  col- 
lection of  insects  and  a  brilliant  array  of  moths  and  butterflies. 
The  Museum  is  about  3  min.  walk  from  Lordship  Lane,  on  the 
South  Eastern  and  Chatham  Railway,  and  5  min .  walk  from  Forest 
Bill,  on  the  London,  Brighton,  &  South  Coast  Railway. 

26* 


404 


41.    Hampton  Court.    Bichmond.  Kew. 


To  Hampton  Court,  a.  South-  Western  Railwap,  from  Waterloo  Station, 
10  M.  in  s/4  hr.  (fares  2s.,  is.  6<l.,  1«.  2yzd.,  return- tickets  2«.  9d.,  2«., 
1<.  lOi.)-  —  lt>*  Electric  Tramtoay  from  Shepherd's  Bush  or  Hammersmith 
Broadway,  12  M.  in  IVs  hr.  (fare  6d.).  —  e.  RaUway  to  Bichmond  (see 
below);  thence  by  electric  tramway  (p.  411).  —  d.  Electric  Tramway  from 
Tooting,  8  M.  in  1  hr.  5  min.  (fare  4d.). 

To  BiGHMOMD.  a.  Bouth-Wettem  Railway  from  Waterloo  Station,  10  M. 
in  20-80  min.  (fares  Is.  U.,  Is.,  9d[.,  return-tickets  2s ,  Is.  6d.,  Is.  3d.), 
going  on  to  Ttoickenham,  Teddington,  and  Kingston  (comp.  p.  423).  —  b.  North 
London  Railway  from  Broad  Street,  in  S/4-I  l^r-  (same  fares),  via  Willesden 
Junction  and  Kew  Gardens  Station.  —  c.  From  all  stations  on  the  inner 
circle'  of  the  Metropolitan  Railway  (p.  30)  vi&  Hammersmith  and  Kew  Gar- 
dens; fares  from  Aldgate  (1  hr.)  as  above.  —  d.  Electric  Tramway  from 
Hammersmith  or  Shepherd  s  Bush  to  Kew  Bridge  (20-23  min. ;  fare  2d.),  and 
thence  by  horse-cars  (V4  hr.;  Id.). 

To  Ekw.  a,  b.  From  Broad  Street  or  Metropolitan  Stations^  as  above. 
Some  trains  from  Broad  Street  run  to  Kew  Bridge  Station.  —  c.  Electric 
Tramway  to  Kew  Bridge,  see  above.  —  d.  Steamboat  in  summer  from 
Chelsea  (see  p.  366),  in  1  hr.  (fares  6d.-ls.). 

Omnibuses,  chari-k-bancs,  and  brakes  ply  frequently  on  Sun«  afternoon 
from  Chariag  Cross,  Piccadilly,  etc.,  to  Kew  (6d.-ls.),  Bichmond  (is.-U. 
6d.),  and  Hampton  Court  (Is.  6d.-2s.  6d.).  One  of  the  coaches  mentioned 
at  p.  26  runs^lo  Hampton  Court. 

One  of  the  best  ways  to  make  this  excursion  is  to  go  to  Hampton 
Court  by  railway;  to  walk  through  Bushy  Park  to  Teddington;  to  take 
the  train  or  tramway  thence  to  Bichmond,  and  the  tramway  thence  to  Kew. 

Another  pleasant  round,  involving  more  walking,  is  as  follows:  by 
train  to  Bichmond;  by  tramway  via  Strawberry  Hill  to  Teddington;  walk 
through  Bushy  Park  to  Hampton  Court  (ca.  >/«  J^'O  i  ^y  tramway  to  Kingston 
0/4  hr.) ;  walk  thence  through  Bichmond  Park  to  Bichmond  (ca.  IVs  hr.) ; 
then  back  to  London  by  train. 

The  South  Wbstbiin  Railway  to  Hampton  Court  (j^;  see  above) 
runs  for  a  considerable  distance  on  a  Yiaduct  above  tbe  streets  of 
London.  To  the  right  are  the  picturesque  brick  buildings  of  Doul- 
ton's  PotUry  (p.  382).  Vauxhall,  the  first  station,  is  still  within 
the  town ;  but  we  emerge  from  its  precincts  near  (4  M.)  Clapham 
Junction^  the  second  station.  The  first  glimpse  of  the  pretty  scenery 
traversed  by  the  line  is  obtained  after  passing  through  the  long 
cutting  beyond  Clapham.  To  the  left  is  the  Victoria  Institution  for 
children  of  soldiers  and  sailors.  5  M.  EarUpeld  ^'  Summerstown. 
—  71/2  M.  Wimbledon  lies  a  little  to  the  S.  of  Wimbledon  Common, 
once  the  scene  of  the  great  volunteer  rifle-shooting  competition  now 
held  at  Blsley.  Wimbledon  House  was  once  occupied  by  Calonne, 
the  French  minister,  and  by  the  Due  d'Enghien,  shot  at  Vincennes 
In  1804.  About  ^ji  M.  from  the  station  is  a  well-preserved  fortified  ' 
camp  of  cruciform  shape,  probably  of  Saxon  origin.  I 

At  (8V2  M.)  Raynes  Park  a  line  diverges  to  the  left  for  Epsomj  I 

near  which  are  Epsom  Downs ,  where  the  great  races,  the  *Derby'  and         I 
the  *Oaks',  take  place  annually  in  May  or  June  (see  p.  64).  —  Before 
reaching  (10  M.)  Coombe  ^  Maiden,  we  pass,  on  a  height  to  the  right, 
Coonibe  House,  formerly  the  property  of  Lord  Liverpool,  who  in 
1815,  when  Prime  Minister ,  entertained  the  Emperor  of  Russia, 


41.  HAMPTON  COURT.  405 

the  King  of  Prussia,  and  the  Prince  Regent  here.  Jnst  beyond 
(12  M.)  Surbiton^  to  the  left,  lie  the  extensiye  nurseries  of  Barr  ^ 
Sons,  where  the  show  of  daffodils  in  April  and  May  is  worth  making 
a  special  journey  to  see.  There  are  millions  of  bulbs,  representing 
600  varieties.  About  2  M.  from  Surbiton  the  branch-line  to  Hamp- 
ton Court  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  main  line,  passing  Thames 
Ditton  (Swan ;  Thames  Ditton  House,  a  private  hotel),  pleasantly 
situated  in  a  grassy  neighbourhood.  We  cross  the  Ember ^  a  branch 
of  the  Mole.  —  16  M.  Hampton  Court 

Elbctbio  Tbahwat  (Nos.  62,  65,  p.  24).  The  Shepherd's  Bush 
ears  start  near  the  terminus  of  the  Central  London  Railway  (p.  33), 
the  Hammersmith  cars  near  the  Hammersmith  termini  of  the  Metro- 
politan Railway  (pp.  31,32)  and  the  Piccadilly  Tube  (p.  36).  Beyond 
Ooldhawk  Road  both  cars  follow  the  route  via  Chiswick  (p.  387) 
and  Ounnersbury  to  (3  M.)  Kew  Bridge,  The  line  remains  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Thames.  3V2  M.  Brentford  (p.  388),  the  official 
county-town  of  Middlesex  (ferry  a  short  distance  to  the  S.  of  Eew 
Palace).  The  name  of  Brentford  often  occurs  in  English  literature ; 
thus  the  *two  Kings  of  Brentford  on  one  throne'  are  mentioned  by 
Gowper  and  in  the  ^ Rehearsal*.  Beyond  Brentford  Station  the  tram- 
way skirts  the  park  otSion  Houses  a  place  of  great  historic  interest, 
which  was  a  nunnery  in  the  i5th  cent.,  and  is  now  a  seat  of  the 
Duke  of  Northumberland.  —  6  M.  IsUworth  (p.  388).  —  7  M. 
Twickenham  (p.  388).  —  Beyond  (9  M.)  New  Hampton  we  skirt 
the  W.  side  of  Bushy  Paik,  and  at  (11  M.)  Hampton  we  reach  the 
Thames.  The  tramway  terminus  is  nearly  opposite  the  entrance  to 
(12  M.)  Hampton  Court  Palace. 

Hampton  Court.  —  Hotels:  Thames  (PI.  a),  near  the  slation,  with 
boats  ana  steam  and  electric  launches  for  hire,  R.  from  3«.,  D.  from  2«. 
6d. ;  Castlb,  also  near  the  station,  with  verandah  overlooking  the  river, 
luncheon  2s.  6d.;  Mitkb  (PI.  b),  beyond  the  bridge,  K.  from  4«.  tid.,  D.  from 
2s.  Qd,\  Whitehall,  a  little  farther  on^  Kiko's  Asks,  Gbethound  (PL  c), 
first-class  inna,  at  the  entrance  to  Bushy  Park;  Park  Cottaqe;  Queen's 
Arus,  D.  from  1«.  Sd.  —  Numerous  Tea  Roams  near  the  entrance  to 
Bushy  Park. 

From  the  railway  station  we  turn  to  the  right,  cross  the  bridge 
OTor  the  Thames,  which  commands  a  charming  view  of  the  river, 
and  follow  the  broad  road  to  the  Palace  on  the  right.  Admission  to 
the  Palace,  see  p.  82.  The  Gardens  are  open  daily  (from  2  on 
Sun.)  nntil  dusk.   Com  p.  Plan. 

The  Palace,  the  largest  royal  palace  in  Great  Britain,  was  originally 
founded  in  1615  by  Cardinal  WoUey^  the  favourite  of  Henry  VIII.,  and 
was  afterwards  presented  by  him  to  the  King.  It  was  built  of  red  brick 
with  battlemented  walls,  and  lay  on  the  site  of  a  property  mentioned  in 
Domesday  Book.  It  was  subsequently  occupied  by  Cromwell,  the  Stuarts, 
William  III.,  and  the  first  two  monarchs  of  the  house  of  Hanover.  In 
1604  the  Hampton  Court  Conference  between  the  Puritans  and  the  Episco- 
palians met  here  under  James  I.  as  moderator.  Under  Queen  Anne  the 
Palace  was  the  seene  of  the  event  celebrated  in  Pope's  ^Bape  of  the  Lock\ 
The  present  state  apartments  were  built  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren  to  the 
order  of  William  III.,  who  died  in  1702  in  consequence  of  a  fall  from 


406  41.  HAMPTON  COURT.  Excursioni 

his  horse  in  the  park  here.  Since  the  time  of  George  II.  Hampton  Court 
has  ceased  to  be  a  royal  residence,  and  over  800  of  its  1000  rooms  are  now 
occupied  in  suites  by  aristocratic  pensioners  of  the  Crown. 

Approaching  from  the  W.,  we  pass  through  the  Trophy  Oates 
into  the  Barrack  Yard,  so  named  from  the  low  barracks  on  the  left, 
built  by  Charles  II.  and  enlarged  by  William  III.  In  front  of  us 
rises  the  Great  Oate  House,  recently  restored,  through  which  we 
gain  the  turfed  Oreen  or  Base  Court,  the  first  and  largest  of  the 
three  principal  courts  comprised  in  the  palace.  On  the  towers  of 
the  archways  between  the  different  courts  are  terracotta  medallions 
of  Roman  emperors  (the  best  being  that  of  Nero),  obtained  by 
Wolsey  from  the  sculptor,  Joanrus  Maiano,  The  fine  oriel  windows 
on  the  outside  and  inside  of  the  gate-house  are  WolseyVoHgrnals. 
Beneath  both  are  the  arms  of  Henry  VIII.  To  the  left  in  Annt  Bo' 
leyn's  Gateway,  which  leads  to  the  next  court  (see  lelow),  is  the 
staircase  ascending  to  the  Great  Hall,  106  ft.  in  length,  40  ft.  In 
breadth ,  and  60  ft.  in  heigtt/ISeguh  by  Henry  VIII.  immediately 
after  the  death  of  Wolsey,  and  completed  in  1536.  The  hall  contains 
good  stained-glass  windows  (mostly  modern)  and  fine  tapestry  repre- 
senting scenes  from  the  life  of  Abraham,  supposed  to  be  from  the 
designs  of  J5.  van  Orley,  The  high-pitched  timber  *Roof  is  a  noble 
specimen  of  the  Perpendicular  Gothic  style.  The  room  at  the  end 
is  identified  as  Henry  VIWs  Great  Watching  Chamber,  This  and 
the  adjoining  Horn  Boom ,  from  which  a  staircase  descends  to  the 
kitchens,  also  contain  tapestries. 

We  return  to  Anne  Boleyn's  Gateway  and  enter  the  Clock  Court, 
aboye  the  entrance  to  which  are  seen  the  armorial  bearings  of  Wol- 
sey, with  his  motto  *Dominus  mihi  adjutor'.  The  court  is  named 
from  the  curious  Astronomical  Clock,  originally  constructed  for 
Henry  VIII.,  and  recently  repaired  and  set  going  again.  From  the 
S.  side  of  this  court  we  pass  through  an  Ionic  colonnade,  erected  by 
Wren,  to  the  King's  Grand  Staircase,  adorned  with  allegorical  paint- 
ings by  Verrio,  which  ascends  to  the  State  Rooms.  Umbrellas,  bags, 
etc.  are  left  at  the  foot  of  it.  The  names  of  the  rooms  are  written 
above  the  doors ,  on  the  inside ;  we  always  begin  with  the  pictures 
on  the  left.  Visitors  are  required  to  pass  from  room  to  room  in  one 
^ireclion'*6nly.  The  gallery  is  rich  in  Italian  pictures,  especially  of 
the  Venetian  school,  but  the  names  attached  to  them  are  often  er- 
roneous and  are  in  some  cases  corrected  in  the  following  list.  About  40 
of  the  best  paintings  were  transferred  to  other  royal  palaces  in  1902. 
Comp.  E.  Law's  *Short  History  of  Hampton  Court*  (3«. ;  ajbridged 
from  a  larger  work  in  3  vols.)  and  ^Historical  Catalogue  of  the 
Pictures  at  Hampton  Court*.  An  abridgment  of  the  latter  (1907  • 
price  6d.,  illustrated  is,)  is  sold  in  the  Palace. 

Boom  I  (The  King's  Guard  Chamber).  The  upper  parts  of  the  walls 
are  tastefully  decorated  with  trophies  and  large  star-shaped  groups  of 
pistols,  gun  ,  lances,  and  other  modern  weapons.  The  best  of  the  pictures 
are:  7.  Canaletto,  Colosseum  and  Arch  of  Constantine  at  Rome;  14.  Zuechero, 
Queen  Elizabeth's  porter  j  several  military  scenes  by  Rugendas. 


frwn  London,       41.  HAMPTON  COURT.  407 

Room  II  (The  KingH  First  Presence  Chamber)  contains  the  canopy  of 
the  throne  of  King  William  III.  The  wood-carrlng  above  the  chimney- 
piece  and  doors  in  this  and  several  of  the  following  rooms  is  by  Orinling 
Gibbons;  the  candelabrum  dates  from  the  reign  ofQneenAnne.  The  npper 
row  of  portraits  are  the  so-called  ^Hampton  Court  Beauties',  or  ladies  of 
the  court  of  William  and  Hary,  painted  by  Sir  Qo^rey  Kneller,  after  the 
model  of  the  'Windsor  Beauties'  of  Charles  II/s  CourL  by  Sir  Peter  Lely^ 
formerly  in  Windsor  Castle,  and  now  in  Boom  VI  of  this  gallery.  The 
following  pictures  also  may  be  remarked :  29.  KnelUr^  William  III.  land- 
ing at  Margate  1697,  a  large  allegorical  work  \  86,  36a.  After  B.  Denner^ 
Portraits  *,  39,  52.  Schiavont^  Frieae-like  landscapes  with  figures ;  57.  Janueny 
Villiers.  Duke  of  Buckingham }  58.  Unknown  Masters^  Portraits  of  Villiers, 
Duke  of  Buckingham,  and  his  family,  60.  Man's  head  •,  61.  Luini^  Woman 
with  flowers;  ^61.  Dutch  copy,  in  the  style  of  ifoMtsc,  of  a  sketch  by  Leon- 
ardo  da  Finci,  Infant  Christ  and  St.  John;  66.  De  Brap,  Historv  of  Mark 
Antony  and  Cleopatra,   the  figures  being  portraits  of  the  artist  s   family. 

Room  III  (The  Second  Presence  Chamber).  On  the  left:  69.  Tintoretto^ 
Esther  before  Ahasuerus;  72.  Leandro  Bassano^  Sculptor;  76.  After  Titian, 
Holy  Family;  •80.  Dosso  Doni,  Portrait  of  a  man;  •78.  Tintoretto,  The 
Nine  Muses  in  Olympus;  86.  School  of  Van  Dyck,  Equestrian  portrait  of 
Charles  I. ;  88.  Velazquez  (?),  Consort  of  Philip  IV.  of  Spain ;  92.  Van  Somer, 
Christian  IV.  of  Denmark;  •79.  Bon\fazio  /.,  Diana  and  Actseon  in  a 
fanciful  landscape,  one  of  the  artist's  masterpieces;  97.  Pordenone,  or 
B.  Licinio,  Family  group  (dated  1524). 

Room  IV  (The  Audience  Chamber).  112.  School  of  Giov.  Bellini  (forged 
signature),  Portrait;  •llS.  Giorgione,  Shepherd  with  a  pipe;  •115.  Lorenzo 
Lotto,  Portrait;  •116.  Palma  Vecchio,  Holy  FamUy;  121.  Girol.  da  Treviso^ 
Marriage  of  the  Virgin;  122.  /.  Bauanc,  Venetian  gentleman;  •ISI.  Paris 
liordone.  Madonna  and  Child,  with  donors;  132.  Honthorst,  Elizabeth, 
4ueen  of  Bohemia,  daughter  of  James  I.;  139.  Cariani,  Adoration  of  the 
shepherds;  142.  Bonifazio  JL,  Christ  and  the  Woman  of  Samaria;  143. 
Savoldo,  Warrior;  •150.  Ascribed  by  B.  Berenson  to  Morto  da  Fatre,  Family- 
concert;  152.  P.  Veronese,  St.  Catharine;  163.  Bonifazio  I.,  Adoration  of  the 
shepherds;  ^154.  Lor.  Lotto,  Portrait  of  Andrea  Odoni,  a  sculptor;  •155. 
Titian,  Portrait. 

Room  V  (The  King*s  Dratoing  Boom).  163.  /.  Bassano,  Boaz  and  Ruth ; 
161.  Pahna  Qiovane,  Expulsion  of  Heresy ;  178.  C.  Cagliari  (after  P.  Vero- 
nese), Adoration  of  the  Magi;  187.  Schiavone,  Judgment  of  Midas;  190. 
P.Bordone  (?),  Lawyer;  •192.  Dosso  Doui,  St.  William  taking  off  his  armour. 

Room  VI  (King  William  the  Third^s  Bedroom)  contains  the  bed  of 
Q»"'en  Charlotte.  The  clock  in  the  comer  to  the  left  of  the  bed  goes  for 
a  ar  without  re-winding;  though  in  good  repair  it  is  no  longer  wound 
up.  On  the  walls  are  the  ^Beauties'  of  the  Court  of  Charles  II. ,  chiefly 
painted  by  Lely  (comp.  Room  II),  including  203.  Jane  Eelleway;  211. 
Duchess  of  York;  217.  Duchess  of  Richmond,  who  was  the  original  of 
the  ^Britannia'  on  the  reverse  of  the  British  coppei'  a;  •229.  Miss 

Hamilton,  Countess  de  Grammont,  —  all  four  by  Lely;  X  218.  Marie 
d'Este  (?,  misnamed  Nell  Owynne),  by  Witting.  The  ceiling,  by  VerHo, 
is  emblematic  of  Sleep. 

Room  VII  (The  King^s  Dressing  Room).  Ceiling-paintings  by  Verrio, 
representing  Mars,  Venus,  and  Cupid.  246.  School  of  Mmiing,  Man's  head; 
•247.  D«ref,  Portrait;  *248.  Mahuse,  Children  of  Christian  II.  of  Denmark ; 
%1,  Swahian  School  (7),  Old  man  and  woman;  281.  Com.  Vischer(1x  after 
Q.  Matsys),  Erasmus  writing;  264.  Jean  ClouetO)t  Francis  I.;  263.  Sir 
A,More(l),  Portrait;  269.  /.  van  Cle^Ci),  Henry  VIH. ;  271.  Semie  van  Leem- 
pirt (Antwerp;  d.  1678),  Henry  VII.  and  his  queen  Blixabeth,  Henry  V 11 1, 
and  his  queen  Jane  Seymour,  copy  of  a  fresco  by  Holbein  in  Whitehall, 
which  was  burned  with  that  palace ;  272.  Holbein,  Mary  Magdalen  at  the 
sepulchre;  276.  Hans  Balduna  Grim,  Portrait;  279.  Holbein {'i),  Elizabeth, 
wife  of  Lord  Vaux  (original  drawing  at  Windsor);  280.  Holbein,  Frobenius, 
printer  of  Erasmus,  companion-picture  to  284.  Erasmus;  286.  F.  Clouet  (?; 
Burnamed  Jane()y  Francis  I.  and  his  third  wife  Eleanor  of  Portugal;  2o7. 
After  Vem  Eyek,  Head  of  Jean  de  Palu. 


408 


41.  HAMPTON  COURT.  Excursions 


Room  VIII  (The  KingH  Writing  Closet).  Beginning  on  the  left:  Van  Dyek^ 
317.  Margaret  Lemon,  the  artist's  mistress,  819.  Dying  saint  (grisaille)) 
S20.  Zuechero(7\  Queen  Elisaheth  with  a  feather  fan;  826.  Sir  A,  More  (?), 
Philip  II.  of  Spain;  881.  Artemisia  Gentilesehi^  Portrait  of  the  artist;  ^. 
Gercwd  Dou^  Old  woman  asleep;  842.  P.  Brills  Landscape;  343.  Elsheimer^ 
Witch  with  Cnpids;  309.  Zttcchero,  Queen  Elizabeth  in  fancy  dress;  Poelem- 
herg^  306.  Xymphs  and  satyrs  dancing,  305.  Landscape  with  rains;  802. 
Jan  Mostaerty  Sophonisla.  The  mirror  above  the  chimney-piece  here  is 
placed  at  such  an  angle  as  to  reflect  the  whole  suite  of  rooms. 

Boom  IX  (Queen  Mary's  Closet).  On  the  left:  852.  Van  Dyck^  Cupid 
and  Psyche;  354.  Hendrik  Pot^  Play-scene  (the  actor  has  been  taken  lor 
a  portrait  of  Charles  I.);  358.  D«  Vriet,  Christ  with  Martha  tnd  Mary; 
364.  F.  HeUs,  Laughing  boy ;  3T1.  Untnovfn  Painter,  Face  at  a  window  (not 
Will  Somers,  Henry  VIII.'s  jester). 

Room  X  (The  QueenU  Gallery)  is  a  hall,  69  ft.  long  and  26  ft.  broad, 
with  tapestry  representing  scenes  from  the  life  of  Alexander  the  Great, 
after  Le  Brun. 

Room  XI  (  The  (lueenU  Bedroom)  contains  Queen  Anne^s  bed,  and  has  a 
ceiling  painted  by  Thomhill^  representing  Aurora  rising  from  the  sea.  To 
the  left:  393.  Giulio  Romano,  Copy  of  Baphael's  'Madonna  della  Querela^ 
(now  at  Madrid);  394.  Fi'aneeseo  Franeia,  Baptism  of  Christ;  404.  Cara- 
vaggio,  Peter,  James,  and  John;  405.  G.  Romano .  Birth  of  Apollo  and 
Dions;  ■'4:0.  Dosso  Dossi.  Holy  Family;  422.  Lor.  Costa  (1),  Female  saint; 
428.  Gianpetrino  (7),  St.  Catharine;  Correggio,  *429.  St.  Catharine  reading, 
*430.  Holy  Family,  with  St.  James  on  the  left,  small  and  admirable  works 
of  the  painter''8  later  and  early  period. 

Boom  XII  (The  Queen^s  Drawing  Room),  with  ceiling  painted  by 
VerriOy  representing  Queen  Anne  as  the  Goddess  of  Justice.  The  allegorical 
paintings  on  the  walls ,  with  portraits  of  Queen  Anne  and  her  husband, 
Prince  George  of  Denmark,  also  by  Verrio,  were  restored  to  view  in  1899, 
after  having  been  concealed  by  canvas  and  wall-paper  for  over  160  years. 
The  windows  command  a  fine  'View  of  the  gardens  and  canal  ('A  M.  long). 

Boom  XIU  (The  Queen^s  Audience  Chamber).  On  the  left:  443.  Blyem- 
bergCi),  Count  Gondomsr,  Spanish  ambassador;  448.  MytensCt),  Edward, 
12th  Lord  Zouch;  School  of  Holbein,  *453.  Henry  VIU.  and  his  family, 
455.  Meeting  of  Henry  VIII.  and  Francis  I.  of  France,  at  the  Field  of  the 
Cloth  of  Gold. 

Boom  XIV  (The  Public  Dining  Room).  On  the  left:  477.  JET.  Bosch,  Fan- 
tastic representation  of  Hell;  481,  484.  W.  van  de  Velde,  Sea-pieces  (sket- 
ches); 486.  Unknown  Artist,  Portrait;  491.  De  Heem,  Fruit;  497.  Walker, 
Portrait  of  himself;  502.  Gainsborough  (after  Bembrandt),  Jewish  Babbi ; 
493.  Jan  Brueghil  and  Rottenhammer,  Tbe  Elements  (ccmp.  Nos.  473,  479, 
487);  508.  Zuccarelliy  Landscape;  509.  Steenwyck,  St.  Peter  in  prison;  616. 
Van  Somer,  Anne  of  Denmark,  Queen  of  Jt.mes  I.;  514.  After  Van  Dyck, 
Duke  of  Buckingham  and  his  brother;  524.  Dobson,  Portrait.  We  proceed 
in  a  straight  direction;  the  door  to  the  left  leads  to  the  Queen^s  Chapel, 
etc.  (see  p.  409). 

Boom  XV  (The  Prince  of  Wales*$  Presence  Chamber).  On  the  left: 
543.  Rembrandt  (7),  Jewish  lady;  544.  Rembrandt,  Babbi;  *647.  Mabuse, 
Adam  and  Eve;  552.  Zucchero,  Calumny,  an  allegory;  563.  Van  Orley, 
Death  of  Adonis;  556.  LucM  van  Lfyden,  Death-bed  scene;  560.  Schoreel, 
Virgin  and  Child,  SS.  Andrew  andMicbael;  661.  L.  Cranach  (7),  St.  Christ- 
opher and  other  saints,  563.  L.  Cranach,  Judgment  of  Paris;  106.  Lucas 
vanLeydenQ),  Triptych  of  the  Passion;  569.  Mabuse  (7),  Holy  Family;  674. 
Eeemskerck,  Death  and  the  Last  Judgment;  580.  Miereoelt,  A  Knight  of  the 
Garter;  679.  Hemmessen,  St.  Jerome ;  584.  Aft^  Rubens,  Venus  and  Adonis; 
687.  Unknown  Artist,  Spanish  lute-player ;  589.  Beemskerek,  Quakers*  meeting. 

Boom  XVI  (The  Prince  of  Wales^s  Drawing  Room).  On  the  left:  606, 
607.  Pourbus,  Maria  de' Medici;  613.  Gonzales  Coques,  Portrait:  620.  Pala- 
medesO)j  Embarking  from  Scheveningen ;  '619.  WynaniSy  Landscape;  625. 
Molenaer,  Dutch  merry-making;  626.  Pourbus,  Henri  IV  of  France;  627. 
Podemberg,  Patyr  and  nymph;  630.  Wouverman,  The  hayrick.  —  606.  BnughH 
the  Elder,  Massacre  of  the  Innocents,  thoroughly  Dutch  in  conception. 


from  London.       41.  HAMPTON  COURT.  409 

Room  XVII  (The  Prince  of  WaletU  Bedroom)  contains  tapestry  re- 
presenting the  Battle  of  Solebay  (1672),  and  a  few  portraits. 

We  now  retnm  to  Boom  ZIV  (Piiblic  Dining  Room)^  and  pass  throngh 
the  door  on  the  right,  indicated  by  notices  pointing  the  *Way  Ont\ 

Qdkkn'8  Peivatb  Chapbl,  with  nothing  of  interest.  —  The  BATnnro 
Clobkt  adjoining  the  chapel  contains  the  qneen*s  marble  bath.  The 
Privatk  Dinimg  Room  contains  three  bright  red  beds  (William  III.'s  to 
the  left  I  Qneen  Mary^s  to  the  right;  George  II.'s  in  the  middle).  Adjoining 
it  is  a  CLOSET  with  12  saints  by  Feti  (5(%). 

Qcbeh'b  Peitate  Chamber,  wi<h  unimportant  paintings.  —  The  Kiho'b 
Pbivatb  DRE88I1I0  RooM  contains  seme  poir  copies  of  various  well-known 
works.  —  Oeoeoe  II.'s  Priyate  Room,  with  a  cabinet  containing  china. 
No.  825.  N.  Poutiin^  Nymphs  and  satyrs.  —  We  then  pass  through  a  dark 
comer-room  into  the  long  — 

KiNo^s  Gallebt,  where  Raphaers  famous  cartoons,  now  at  South 
Kensington  (p.  857),  were  preserved  until  1865.  It  now  contains  seven 
fine  tapestries  made  at  Brussels  from  these  cartoons  by  Jean  Rait  (17th  cent.), 
presented  by  Baron  d'Erlanger. 

We  now  pass  through  the  small,  dark  King's  Lobbt,  and  enter  tie 
last  long  gallery,  called  the  — 

**MANTEQifA  Gallebt.  which  contains  the  gem  of  the  collection,  the 
Triumphal  Procession  ox  Csesar,  by  Andrea  Mantegna^  extending  the 
whole  length  of  the  wall,  and  protected  by  glass.  The  series  of  pictures 
(Nos.  f81-TO9),  painted  in  distemper  upon  linen,  is  in  parts  sadly  defaced, 
and  has  also  been  retouched.  Mantegna  began  the  work,  which  was  in- 
tended for  stage-scenery,  in  1485,  and  finished  it  in  1490-92.  The  series 
was  purchased  by  Charles  I.  along  with  the  rest  of  the  Duke  of  Mantua's 
collection  in  1628,  and  was  valued  by  the  Parliament  after  the  king's  death 
at  10(X)I.  It  was  rescued  by  Oromwell,  along  with  Raphael's  cartoons. 
The  lighting  of  the  room  prevents  these  paintings  being  seen  to  advantage. 

Section  I.  Beginning  of  the  procession  with  trumpeters,  standard 
bearers,  and  warriors*,  on  the  flag-poles  paintings  of  the  victories  of 
Gsesar.  —  II.  Statues  of  Jupiter  and  Juno  in  chariots,  bust  of  Cybele,  war^ 
like  instruments.  —  III.  Trophies  of  war*,  weapons,  urns,  tripods,  etc. 
—  IV.  Precious  vessels  and  ornaments;  oxen  led  by  pages*,  train  of 
musicians.  —  V.  Elephants  bearing  fruit,  flowers,  and  candelabra.  — 
VI.  Urns,  armour,  etc.,  borne  in  triumph.  —  VII.  Procession  of  the 
captives;  men,  women,  and  children,  and  mocking  figures  among  the 
populace.  —  VIII.  Dancing  musicians,  standard-bearers  with  garlands; 
among  them  a  soldier  of  the  German  Legion,  bearing  a  standard  with 
the  she-wolf  of  Rome.  —  IX.  Julius  Caesar^  with  sceptre  and  palm-branch, 
in  a  triumphal  car;  behind  him  Victoria;  on  his  standard  the  legend, 
*Veni,  vidi,  vici', 

*With  a  stem  realism,  which  was  his  virtue,  Mantegna  multiplied 
illustrations  of  the  classic  age  in  a  severe  and  chastened  style ,  balancing 
his  composition  with  the  known  economy  of  the  Greek  relief,  conserving 
the  dignity  of  sculptural  movement  and  gait,  and  the  grave  marks  of  the 
classic  statuaries,  modifying  them  though  but  slightly  with  the  newer 
accent  of  Donatello.  .  .  .  His  contour  is  tenuous  and  fine  and  remarkable 
for  a  graceful  and  easy  flow;  his  clear  lights,  shaded  with  grey,  are 
blended  with  extraordinary  delicacy,  his  colours  are  bright  and  varie- 
gated, yet  thin ,  spare,  and  of  gauzy  substance."  —  Crowe  and  Cavalccuelle. 

The  Mantegna  Gallery  also  contains  a  few  other  paintings,  including 
an  alleged  portrait  of  Jane  Shore,  mistress  of  Edward  IV.  (No.  891 ;  im- 
mediately to  the  right  of  the  door  by  which  we  enter)  and  a  portrait  of 
the  dwarf  Sir  Jeffery  Hudson,  immortalized  in  Scott's  'Peverll  of  the  Peak' 
(No.  896;  by  Mytent;  over  the  fireplace). 

To  the  left,  at  the  end  of  this  gallery,  are  three  small  rooms  the  most 
interesting  of  wh'ch  is  Cabdimal  Wolbbt's  Closet,  with  a  fine  ceiling, 
panelled  walls,  and  a  frieae  of  paintings  on  panel  from  the  History  of 
the  Passion. 

We  now  pass  the  top  of  the  Quebs^s  Staibcasb,  with  poor  ceiling- 
paintings  by  Kent  and  a  fine  iron  balustrade,  to  visit  two  other  rooms. 


410  41.  HAMPTON  COURT.  Excursions 

EooM  I  (The  QueenU  Ouard  Chamber).  On  the  left:  921.  Ciro  Fei'fi, 
Triumph  of  Bacchus;  927.  DomenichinOi  Bulng  and  figures;  FialetH,  930, 
932,  936,  938.  Four  doges  of  Venice,  931.  Venetian  senators;  9iO.  Romanelli, 
after  Ouido  Reni,  Triumph  of  Venus,  with  Bacchus  and  Ariadne.  —  We 
now  pass  through  a  small  Ante-Room  iaio  — 

Boom  II  (The  Queen^s  Presence  Chamber).  W.  van  de  Velde  ^  •952. 
Close  of  an  action,  953.  Prince  Rupert  commanding  the  French  and  English 
fleets  against  the  Dutch  (1673);  956.  ;Sr.  Ruysdael^  Biver-scene;  on  each  side 
of  the  fireplace,  959-961,  etc.  L,  Oiordanoj  Myth  of  Cupid  and  Psyche,  in 
twelve  small  pictures  (painted  upon  copper);  972.  Michael  Wright,  John 
Lacy,  comedian,  in  three  characters ;  ^81.  Van  Dieet,  Landscape.  This 
room  contains  also  a  number  of  sea-pieces. 

We  now  retmn  and  descend  the  Queen's  Staircase,  at  the  foot 
of  wMcli  we  turn  to  the  left  and  enter  the  Fountain  Court,  sur- 
rounded by  cloisters,  tuilt  by  Wren.  The  tweWe  medallions  on  the 
S.  wall  originally  bore  paintings  of  the  Labours  of  Hercules,  by 
Laguerre,  now  quite  obliterated.  Farther  on  we  enter  the  gardens, 
in  front  of  the  £.  facade  of  the  Palace. 

The  *  Garden  is  laid  out  in  the  French  style,  and  embellished 
with  tasteful  flower-beds  and  shady  avenues.  Immediately  opposite 
the  centre  of  the  facade  is  the  Long  Canal,  ^/^  M.  long  and  150  ft. 
wide,  constructed  by  Charles  II.  On  each  side  of  the  canal  is  the 
House  Park.  —  In  the  Pond  Garden,  to  the  W.  of  the  Privy  Gar- 
den, on  the  S.  side  of  the  Palace,  is  exhibited  a  vine  of  the  Black 
Hamburgh  variety,  planted  in  1768  by  Lancelot  (* Capability')  Brown, 
the  stem  of  which  is  38  in.  in  circumference,  and  the  branches  of 
which  spread  over  an  area  of  2200  sq.  ft.  The  yield  of  this  gigantic 
vine  amounts  annually  to  1200  or  1300  bunches  of  grapes,  weigh- 
ing about  3/4 lb.  each.  — Near  Queen  Anne's  Bower,  on  the  boundary 
of  the  garden  towards  the  river,  twelve  tall  wrought -iron  railings 
have  recently  been  re-erected.  These,  long  ascribed  to  Huntington 
Shaw  (p.  361),  are  more  probably  by  Jean  Tijou.  The  old  Tennis 
Court,  opening  from  the  garden  to  the  N.  of  the  Palace,  is  still  used. 

The  Mate  (adm.  Id.),  or  labyrinth,  in  the  so-called  Wilderness  to 
the  N.  of  the  Palace,  may  be  successfully  penetrated  by  keeping  in- 
variably to  the  left,  except  the  first  time  we  have  an  option ,  when 
we  keep  to  the  extreme  right ;  in  coming  out,  we  keep  to  the  right, 
till  we  reach  the  same  place ,  when  we  turn  to  the  left.  —  Near 
the  Maze  are  the  Lion  Oates,  by  which  we  quit  Hampton  Court. 
The  piers,  with  the  carved  stone  lions,  were  erected  by  Queen 
Anne ;  the  iron  gates  are  ascribed  to  Tijou  (see  above). 

Outside  the  gates  are  the  hotels  mentioned  at  p.  405.  Tramways  from 
Hampton  Court  to  Richmond  Bridge  and  to  Kingston  and  Tooting  (see  pp.  411, 
2d)  pass  this  point;  and  on  Sun.  in  summer  waggonettes  ply  hence 
through  Bushy  Park  to  Teddington  (2<i.).  Carriage  from  Hampton  Court  to 
Teddington  2j.  6<i.,  to  Richmond  6j.    Comp.  also  p.  104. 

Immediately  opposite  the  Lion  Gates  is  one  of  the  entrances  to 
Bnshy  Park,  a  royal  domain  of  about  1000  acres.  There  are  three 
other  gates:  viz.  one  near  Teddington,  one  at  Hampton  Wick 
(p.  389),  and  one  at  Hampton  village.  Its  white-thorn  trees  in 
blossom  are  very  beautiful,  but  its  chief  glory  is  in  the  end  of  spring 


from  London,  41.  RICHMOND.  411 

01  in  eaily  summei,  when  the  horse-chestnuts  are  in  full  bloom, 
affording  a  sight  qaite  nneqnalled  in  England  (^'Chestnat  Sunday', 
usually  announced  in  the  London  papers).  These  majestic  old 
trees ,  planted  by  William  III.  and  interspersed  with  limes,  form 
a  triple  ayenue,  of  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  from  Hampton 
Court  to  Teddiugton.  Near  the  Hampton  Court  end  of  the  avenue 
is  a  curious  basin  with  carp  and  gold-fish  and  the  *Diana  Fountain', 
dating  from  1699.  The  deer  in  the  park  are  so  tame  that  they 
scarcely  exert  themselves  to  get  out  of  the  way  of  visitors.  They 
even  thrust  their  heads  in  at  the  open  windows  of  the  houses  that 
look  on  the  park,  insisting  on  being  fed.  The  residence  of  the 
ranger  is  a  sombre  red  brick  house,  screened  off  by  railings,  near 
one  margin  of  the  park.  —  A  little  to  the  W.  of  the  Teddington 
end  of  the  avenue  is  Bushy  House,  in  which  a  National  Physical 
Laboratory  was  opened  in  1902,  for  making  scientific  investigations 
of  importance  to  industry  and  for  testing  machinery  and  apparatus. 
Eew  Observatory  (p.  412)  is  now  a  department  of  this  establishment. 
We  turn  to  the  left  on  quitting  Bushy  Park.  The  road  almost 
immediately  forks,  when  we  keep  to  the  right ,  and  then  take  the 
third  turning  on  the  right,  passing  the  garden  of  the  Clarence 
Hotel  and  leading  to  (IV4  M.)  Teddington  Station,  —  The  train 
from  Teddington  to  Richmond  passes  Strawberry  Hill  (p.  388), 
Twideenham  (p.  388),  and  St.  Margaret's,  The  tramway  also  passes 
Strawberry  Hill  and  Twickenham  and  halts  on  the  S.  side  of  Rich- 
mond Bridge.  —  The  walk  from  Teddington  to  (3  M.)  Richmond  is 
very  picturesque  (fine  cedars). 

Siohmond.  —  Hotels.  «Sxab  and  Gabtbk  ,  near  the  Park  Gate,  on 
Richmond  Hill,  L.  from  2«.  6d. ,  D.  6«.  6(2.,  with  restaurant;  Queen's 
Hotel  ;  Mansion  Rbsidbntial  Hotel,  below  the  upper  end  of  the  terrace ; 
Castle,  Quethound,  in  the  town.  —  Nnmerous  RettauranU^  Con/eetioners, 
and  Tea  Garden*.  'Maids  of  Honour*,  a  kind  of  sweet  cheese-cake,  are  a 
specialty  of  Richmond. 

Tramways.  Electric  Tramway  from  Richmond  Bridge  to  Twickenham, 
Teddington,  and  (V4  hr.)  Hampton  Court  PcUaee,  every  10  min.  (fare  Ad.).  — 
Horse  Cars  from  the  station  to  (V*  hr.)  Keu>,  every  8  min.  (fare  Id.). 

Steamboat  ('Duke  of  York')  daily  in  summer  at  11  a  m.  to  Fenton  Book 
and  Cherteey  (return-fare  4«.):  luncheon  on  board. 

Approaches  from  London,  see  p.  404. 

Richmond  is  a  small  town  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Thames, 
charmingly  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  (pop.  in  1901,  31,677). 
The  original  name  of  the  place  was  Sheen  (*beautifur),  which  still 
survives  in  the  neighbouring  East  Sheen.  The  ancient  manor-house 
here,  in  which  Edward  I.  received  commissioners  from  Scotland,  was 
replaced ,  under  Edward  III.,  by  a  palace.  This ,  pulled  down  by 
Richard  II.,  was  rebuilt  by  Henry  V.  and  again  in  1499,  after  a  fire 
and  with  greater  splendour,  by  Henry  VII.,  the  founder  of  the  Tudor 
dynasty,  who  named  it  Richmond,  after  his  own  title.  Henry  VIII. 
and  his  daughter  Elizabeth  often  held  their  courts  in  this  palace, 
and  the  latter  died  here  in  1603.  In  1649  the  palace  was  demolished 


412  41.  RICHMOND.  ExcursionB 

by  order  of  Parliament,  with,  the  exception  of  a  small  portion,  left 
for  Queen  Henrietta  Maria,  widow  of  Charles  I.  This  is  approached 
through  a  stone  gateway  in  Richmond  Green. 

From  the  station  George  Street  leads  to  the  W.  To  the  left,  behind 
the  Masonic  Hall,  is  the  ohnroh  of  St.  Mary  Magdalen,  containing 
the  tombs  of  James  Thomson  (d,  1748),  the  poet  of  the  'Seasons*, 
and  Edmund  Kean,  the  famous  actor  (d.  1833).  To  the  right  (N.) 
lies  Richmond  Oreen,  with  numerous  houses  in  the  Queen  Anne 
style  and  the  Theatre  Royal,  a  conspicuous  terracotta  erection, 
opened  in  1900.  Beyond  the  Green,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  is 
the  Old  Deer  Park,  with  a  golf-course,  cricket- ground,  etc.  In  (his 
park  stands  the  Kew  Observatory,  eminent  for  its  important  work 
in  meteorology,  magnetism,  electricity,  and  the  verification  of 
scientific  instruments.  It  stands  on  the  site  of  a  house  once  occu- 
pied by  Swift;  while  Thomson's  residence  is  now  represented  by 
Richmond  Hospital  on  the  W.  side  of  the  park.  Footpath  to  Kew, 
see  p.  414. 

At  the  W.  end  of  George  Street  we  turn  to  the  left  and  ascend 
the  main  street,  passing  the  Town  H^aW  (1893),  beside  which  is  the 
small  Richmond  Theatre,  opened  in  1890,  to  the  charming  Terrace 
Gardens,  which  command  a  beautiful  and  famous  *View.  Above 
the  terrace  is  Doughty  House,  the  residence  of  the  late  Sir  Francis 
Cook  (d.  1901),  containing  a  collection  of  paintings  by  old  masters 
and  a  number  of  antiquities  (accessible  on  personal  introduction). 
Farther  up,  at  the  top  of  Richmond  Hill,  is  the  Park  Oate,  an  entrance 
to  Bichmond  Park,  2265  acres  in  area  and  8  M.  in  circumference, 
originally  encloeed  as  a  hunting-ground  by  Charles  I.  in  1637. 
The  park  is  a  favourite  summer -resort,  both  of  Londoners  and 
strangers,  and  is  frequented  in  fine  weather  by  crowds  of  pedestrians, 
horsemen,  cyclists,  and  carriages.  It  contains  nnmeions  fine  trees 
and  large  herds  of  deer  add  to  its  charms.  The  path  to  the  right 
within  the  gate  leads  to  the  New  Terrace,  near  which  is  Pembroke 
Lodge,  the  seat  of  Lord  John  Russell  (d.  1878).  In  the  grounds  of 
this  mansion  rises  Henry  V Ill's  Mound,  whence  that  king  is  said  to 
have  watched  for  the  firing  of  the  gun  at  the  Tower  of  London,  an- 
nouncing the  execution  of  Anne  Boleyn.  Near  the  centre  of  the 
park  is  White  Lodge,  long  a  royal  residence,  and  the  biithplace  in 
1894  of  Prince  Edward  of  Wales.  It  is  approached  by  the  Queen's 
Walk,  an  avenue  nearly  a  mile  long.  This  was  the  scene  of  the 
interview  between  Jeanie  Deans  and  Queen  Caroline  in  Scott's 
'Heart  of  Midlothian'. 

From  Richmond  we  may  take  the  tramway  (p.  411)  to  Kew 
[Star  and  Garter,  near  the  bridge;  Kew  Gardens  Hotel,  close  to 
Kew  Gardens  Station,  R.  3i.,  B.  2i.),  skirting  the  E.  side  of  the 
Old  Deer  Park  and  the  Botanic  Gardens.  The  Church  of  St.  Anne, 
on  Kew  Green,  dates  from  1714;  it  contains  memorial  windows  to 
the  Duchess  of  Teck,  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge,  and  other  royalties. 


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from  London.  41.  KEW.  413 

GainsboroQgli  (d.  1788),  the  artist,  is  buried  in  the  churchyard. 
Close  by  are  Cambridge  Cottage^  the  residence  of  the  aged  Duchess 
of  Cambridge  (d.  1889),  and  Kew  Collage,  —  Kew,  which  is 
reached  from  London  direct  by  any  of  the  routes  indicated  on 
p.  404,  has  two  railway-stations:  Kew  Bridge  Station  on  the  left, 
and  Kew  Gardens  Station  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Thames.  Leaying 
the  first  of  these,  we  cross  the  Thames  to  Kew  Green,  and  thence 
proceed  to  the  right  to  the  principal  entrance  of  the  Gardens.  From 
Kew  Gardens  station  a  short  road  leads  direct  to  the  Victoria  Gate, 
which  is  yisible  from  the  station.  Cycles  may  be  left  at  the  cycle- 
shelter,  Just  outside  the  principal  entrance  (charge,  2d.  each 
machine).  The  beautiful  ^Botanic  Gardens  at  Kew  are  open  gratis 
daily  from  10  a.m.  in  summer  and  from  12  in  winter  (on  Sundays 
always  from  1  p.m.)  till  sunset;  the  hothouses  are  open  daily  from 
1  p.m.  Visitors  may  not  bring  eatables  into  the  Gardens,  or  pluck 
even  the  wild  flowers.  Smoking  is  strictly  prohibited  in  the  houses. 
The  present  Director  of  the  gardens  is  Lieut,-  Col,  D,  Prain^  whose 
predecessors  were  the  distinguished  botanists  Sir  W.  T.  Thiselton- 
Dyer,  Sir  Joseph  D.  Hooker,  and  Sir  William  J.  Hooker. 

The  Botanic  Gardens  proper  lie  to  the  left  (S.)  of  the  broad 
walk  leading  from  the  principal  entrance.  Taking  the  first  side- 
walk to  the  left,  we  reach  a  range  of  hothouses,  containing  the  in- 
teresting ferns  and  cacti.  A  little  farther  on  are  the  houses  with  the 
orchids  and  pitcher-plants  and  the  tank  for  the  *Victoria  Regia, 
which  flowers  in  July  or  August.  To  the  E.  is  a  Rock  Garden,  and  a 
little  to  the  S.  is  a  pond  enliyened  by  pelicans  and  numerous  kinds 
of  foreign  waterfowl.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  pond  is  one  of  the  three 
Museums  in  the  gardens,  and  on  the  W.  side  are  the  *Palm  House 
(362  ft.  long,  100  ft.  broad,  and  66  ft.  high),  where  the  temperature 
is  kept  at  80**Fahr.,  and  the  Water  Lily  House,  We  may  now  cross 
the  lawns  to  the  N.  to  visit  Kew  Palace  (10-6  daily,  except  Frid.) 
before  going  on  to  the  Arboretum  (see  below).  The  quaint  red 
brick  palace,  a  favourite  residence  of  George  III.  and  Queen  Char- 
lotte (who  died  here  in  1818),  was  thrown  open  to  the  public  in 
1898.  It  is  at  present  practically  empty.  The  Gardens  contain  a 
number  of  small  ornamental  Temples. 

To  the  S.  and  W.  of  the  Botanic  Gardens  proper  lies  the  Ar- 
BORBTUM,  covering  an  area  of  178  acres,  which  extends  to  the 
Thames,  and  is  intersected  in  every  direction  by  shady  walks  and 
avenues.  In  the  N.  part  is  a  small  American  Garden,  with  magnolias 
and  fine  azaleas  (best  about  the  end  of  May),  and  near  the  Thames 
(on  the  W.)  is  the  Hollow  Walk,  famous  for  its  show  of  rhododen- 
drons in  May  and  June.  Near  the  middle  of  the  Arboretum  is  a 
picturesque  artificial  Lake  (water-fowl),  skirted  on  the  N.W.  by  a 
broad  grassy  avenue  known  as  the  *Sion  Vista'.  Adjoining  the  S.W. 
end  of  the  Arboretum  are  the  private  grounds  surrounding  the 
King's  Cottage,  which  have  been  open  to  the  public  since  1898. 


414  42.  EPPING  FOREST.  Excursions 

The  *  Winter  Garden,  or  Temperate  House,  built  in  1865  at  a  cost  of 
35,000^.  in  tlie  S.  part  of  the  Arboretam,  is  designed  for  keeping 
plants  of  the  temperate  zone  during  winter.  The  central  portion  is 
212  ft. long,  137  ft.  wide,  and  60  ft.  high;  with  the  wings  the  total 
length  is  582  ft.  A  short  distance  to  the  E.  of  this  stands  the  ele- 
gant North  Gallery,  the  gift  of  Miss  North  (d.  1891),  opened  in  1882. 
It  contains,  in  geographical  sequence,  a  most  interesting  collection 
of  paintings  of  tropical  flowers,  etc.,  executed  by  Miss  North  in  their 
native  localities  (catalogue  3d.).  The  neighbouring  Flag  Staff  is  a 
single  Douglas  pine,  160  ft.  in  height.  Near  the  Winter  Garden  is 
a  Refreshment  Pavilion  (tea,  ices,  etc.).  At  the  S.  extremity  of  the 
Arboretum  is  the  Pagoda^  rising  in  ten  stories  to  a  height  of  165  ft. 
(no  admission),  not  far  from  which  is  the  Lion  Oate,  opening  on 
the  Richmond  Road. 

A  footpath  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Thames  leads  from  Kew  to 
Richmond,  skirting  the  W.  side  of  Kew  Gardens  and  of  the  Old 
Deer  Park  (p.  412).  On  the  opposite  bank  are  Brentford  (p.  405) 
and  Sion  House  (p,  405). 


42,  Epping  Forest.  Waltham  Abbey.  Rye  House. 

Oreat  Eastern  Railway  to  (12  H.)  Loughton^  in  V*  hr.  (fares  2<.  id., 
U.  5(1.,  U.).  From  Loughton,  which  may  be  reached  also  from  Chalk 
Farm  and  other  stations  of  the  Xorth  London  Railway  (via  Daltton  June- 
Hon),  we  go  on  foot,  through  Epping  Forest^  to  (5  M.)  Waltham  Abbey, 
From  Waltham  Abbey  to  (6  M.)  Rye  House  by  railway.  —  Railway  direct 
from  London  (Liverpool  8t.)  to  (13  M.)  Waltham  Cross  in  V4  hr.  (fares  2<., 
is.  Qd.,  is.  Id.)  and  (19  M.)  Rye  House  in  2/«-lV4  hr.  (fares  3«.  8d.,  2«.  lOd., 
1».  8d.).    See  p.  416. 

We  may  start  either  from  Fe/nchurch  Street  Station  (p.  Q8)  or 
from  Liverpool  Street  Station  (p.  26).  The  first  stations  after  Liver- 
pool Street  uTe  Bishopsgate,  Bethnal  (?rc«n  (p.  145),  Olohe  Road, 
Coborn  Boad^  and  Stratford^  where  the  traiji  joins  the  North  London 
line.  Then  Leyton  (with  the  ground  of  the  Essex  County  Cricket 
Club  and  a  Technical  Institute)  and  Leytonstone.  At  (8  M.)  Snares- 
brook  is  an  Infant  Orphan  Asylum,  with  accommodation  for  300 
children  (to  the  left  of  the  line).  To  the  E.  lies  Wanstead  Park 
(184  acres),  in  which  is  a  heronry,  and  farther  to  the  S.  are  Wan- 
stead  Flats,  another  public  park.  88/4  M.  George  Lane;  9^/4  M. 
Woodford,  3  M.  from  Chingford  (p.  4i  5).  Woodford  is  connected 
with  (6  M.)  Ilfordy  on  the  Great  Eastern  main  line,  by  a  loop-line 
passing  Chigwell,  where  the  'King's  Head'  is  the  original  of  the 
*Maypole'  in  'Barnaby  Rudge'.  Near  Chigwell  are  the  last  unenclosed 
remains  of  HainauU  Forest.  —  11 M.  Buckhurst  Hill.  Then  (12  M.) 
Longhton  (Railway  Hotel),  within  a  few  hundred  paces  of  the  Forest. 

Beyond  Longhton  the  railway  goes  on  via  Chigwell  Lane,  Theydon  Bois, 
(17  M.)  Epping  (Thatched  House;  Cock),  with  3790  inhob. ,  North  Weald, 
and  Blake  Hall  to  the  lerminns  at  ^  M.)  Chipping  Ongar,  an  ancient 
place  (9x0  inhab.),  with  the  remains  of  a  castle.     Green$t€ad^  1  M.  to  the 


from  London.         42.  EPPING  FOREST.  415 

W.  of  Ongar,  has  a  remarkable  wooden  clixirch,  the  walls  of  the  nave 
being  formed  of  upright  tree-trunks  said  to  date  from  Anglo-Saxon  times. 
Another  route  to  Epping  Forest  is  by  the  Great  Eastern  Railway 
from  Liverpool  Street,  vi&  Wood  Street,  the  station  for  Waltfuxmstow,  to 
(9  M.)  Ckingford  (fares  U.  5d.,  Is.  Id.,  lOtf.),  which  may  be  reached  also 
from  the  North  London  Railtoay  vi&  balston  Junction  and  Haciney  or  vi& 
Qctpel  Oak,  At  Walthamstow  a  park  of  9Vs  acres,  adjoining  *The  Winns'. 
birthplace  of  WUliam  Morrit  (1831-96),  was  opened  in  1900.  -^  Ohingford 
i*Royul  Forest  Hotel,  R.  from  4«.,  table  d'hdte  5«.)t  which  lies  2  M.  to  the 
W.  of  Buckhurst  Hill,  about  4Va  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  Waltham  Abbey, 
and  2Vs  M.  to  the  S.  of  High  Beach  (see  below),  is  perhaps  the  beat  starting- 
point  from  which  to  visit  the  most  attractive  parts  of  the  Forest..  Open 
conveyances  of  various  kinds  run  from  Chingford  station  and  from  the 
Royal  Forest  Hotel  to  High  Beach  (Qd.  each),  Waltham  Abbey,  Chigwell, 
Bpping,  and  other  points  of  interest:  the  best  conveyance  is  the  four- 
horse  coach  starting  at  the  hotel.  The  quaint  old  house  adjoining  the 
hotel,  known  as  *  Queen  Elizabeth's  Hunting  Lodge'  and  supposed  to  have 
been  a  stand  for  watching  the  chase,  contains  a  small  museum  intended 
to  illustrate  the  history,  natural  history,  and  archceulogy  of  Epping  Forest 
and  Hainault  Forest  (see  below).  Adjacent  is  a  drinking  fountain.  The 
Connaught  Oroundt  contain  several  lawn-tennis  courts  (l-2«.  per  hr.),  and 
there  ia  also  a  good  golf-course.  On  an  eminence  to  the  W.  of  dhingford 
is  an  obelisk,  due  N.  from  Greenwich  Observatory,  and  sometimes  used 
in  verifying  astronomical  calculations. 

Epping  Forest,  along  with  the  adjoining  Hainault  Forest^  at  one 
time  extended  almost  to  the  gates  of  London.  In  1793  there  still 
remained  12,000  acres  unenclosed ,  but  these  have  been  since  re- 
duced to  about  5600  acres.  The  whole  of  the  unenclosed  part  of 
the  Forest  was  purchased  by  the  Corporation  of  London,  and  was 
opened  in  1882  as  a  free  and  inalienable  public  park  and  place  of 
recreation.  The  forest  contains  fallow  deer  and  a  few  roe  deer ;  Its 
bird -life  is  very  varied  (herons,  kingfishers,  jays,  owls,  and  many 
small  songsters) ;  and  it  is  frequented  by  many  rare  kinds  of  butter^ 
flies.  Perhaps  the  finest  point  in  the  Forest  is  *High  Beach^  an  ele- 
vated tract  covered  with  magnificent  beech-trees,  about  li/j  M. 
from  Loughton.  Tennyson  was  living  here  when  he  wrote  'The 
Talking  Oak'  and  'Locksley  Hair.  There  is  an  inn  here,  called  the 
^King's  Oak*,  which  is  much  resorted  to  by  picnic  parties.  About 
2i/2  M.  farther  on,  on  the  northern  verge  of  the  Forest  and  2  M.  to 
the  W.  of  Epping  (p.  414),  stands  Copped  (or  Copt)  Hall,  a 
country  mansion  in  the  midst  of  an  extensive  park.  Near  Buck- 
hurst HiU  (p.  414)  is  the  Roebuck  Inn,  and  there  is  also  a  small 
inn  (the  Bobin  Hood)  at  the  point  where  the  road  from  Loughton 
joins  that  to  High  Beach. 

On  the  highroad  between  Loughton  (or  Chingford)  and  Epping  lies 
Ambresbury  Bank,  an  old  British  camp,  12  acres  in  extent,  and  nearer 
Loughton  is  another  similar  earthwork.  Tradition  reports  that  it  was 
here  that  Boadicea,  Queen  of  the  Iceni,  was  defeated  by  Suetonius,  on 
which  occasion  80,000  Britons  are  said  to  have  perished.  —  A  good  map 
of  Epping  Forest,  price  is.,  maybe  obtained  of  G.  Fhilip  &  Sons,  32  Fleet 
Street.  Good  handbooks  to  the  Forest  are  those  of  E.  Jf.  Buxton  (Stan- 
ford; it.)  and  Percp  Lindley  (6<l.). 

^Waltliain  Abbey  lies  on  the  river  Lea,  about  2M.  from  theW. 
margin  of  the  forest,  and  6  M.  to  the  W.  of  Copped  Hall.  The  abbey 


416  42.  WALTHAM  ABBEY.  Excursions 

was  founded  by  the  Saxon  king  Haiold,  and  after  his  death  in 
1066  became  his  burial-place.  The  nave  of  the  old  abbey  has  been 
restored,  and  now  serves  as  the  parish-church.  The  round  arches 
are  specimens  of  very  early  Norman  architecture,  and  may  even 
have  been  built  before  the  Conquest.  Adjoining  the  S.  aisle  is  a 
fine  Lady  Chapel,  in  the  Decorated  style.    The  tower  is  modern. 

The  direct  railway  from  Liverpool  Street  to  Rye  House  runs  vi& 
Bishopsgaie^  Bethnal  Oreen^  Cambridge  Heathy  London  Fields  (near 
the  public  park  of  that  name),  Hackney  Downs^  and  Clapton,  beyond 
which  it  crosses  the  Lea. 

The  river  X«a,  near  which  the  line  now  runs,  is  still,  as  in  the  days 
of  its  old  admirer  Iz^ak  Walton,  famous  for  its  fishing ;  and  the  various 
stations  on  this  line  are  much  frequented  by  London  anglers.  Nearly 
the  whole  of  the  river  is  divided  into  *swims%  which  are  either  private 
property,  or  confined  to  subscribers.  Visitors,  however,  can  obtain  a  day^s 
fishing  by  payment  of  a  small  fee  Cat  the  inns).  The  free  portions  of  ttie 
river  do  not  afford  such  good  sport. 

From  (73/4  M.)  Angel  Road  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Edmonton 
and  Enfield  (see  below).  — 10  M.  Ponder's  End  ,•  12  M.  Enfield  Lock. 
— 13  M.  Waltham  Cross  (Four  Swans).  The  station  lies  8/4  M.  to  the 
W.  of  the  abbey  (p.  415)  and  V4M.  to  the  ^.  of  Waltham  Cross,  one 
of  the  crosses  which  Edward  I.  erected  on  the  different  spots  where 
the  body  of  his  queen  Eleanor  rested  on  its  way  from  Nottingham- 
shire to  London  (comp.  p.  162).  The  cross  has  been  well  restored. 
Near  one  of  the  entrances  to  Theobalds  Park,  near  Waltham  Cross, 
stands  the  re-erected  Temple  Bar  (comp.  p.  155).  A  pleasant  walk 
may  be  taken  through  Theobalds  Park  and  White  Webbs  Park  and 
Wood  to  (772  M.)  Enfield. 

14  M.  Cheshunt  is  famous  for  its  rose-gardens.  Cheshunt  Theo- 
logical College,  belonging  to  the  Countess  of  Huntingdon's  Con- 
nection, has  been  removed  to  Cambridge.  Richard  Cromwell  died 
at  Cheshunt  in  1712. 

Cheshunt  may  also  be  reached  by  another  line  from  Liverpool  St., 
vift  (9  M.)  Edmonton  (Bell,  rebuilt  since  Cowper's  time).  Charles  Lamb 
(1775-1834)  died  at  Bay  Cottage,  Church  St.,  Edmonton,  whither  he  removed 
in  1833,  and  is  buried  in  the  churchyard,  along  with  his  sister  Mary  (d.l847). 
John  Keats  (1795-1821)  served  his  apprenticeship  with  a  surgeon  in  Church  St. 
(1810-16)  and  there  wrote  his  *  Juvenile  Poems'.  In  the  church  is  the  Butter^ 
worth  Memorial  to  Lamb  and  Cowper,  and  in  the  Free  Library  are  medal- 
lion portraits  6t  Lamb  and  Keats.  —  A  short  branch-line  runs  from  Ed- 
monton to  Enfield,  with  the  Royal  Small  Arms  Factory  (open  to  visitors 
on  Mon.  &  Thurs.).  The  church  contains  several  interesting  monuments. 
The  Falaee  (now  a  school)  still  retains  some  work  of  the  Tudor  period. 
Lamb  (see  above)  lived  from  1827  to  1833  at  Enfield;  Keata  and  Captain 
Marryat  (1792-1821)  were  educated  here;  and  Isaac  Disraeli  (1766-18A8)  was 
a  native  of  the  town. 

Beyond  (17  M.)  Broxboume  (Crown,  with  fine  rose-garden)  our 
line  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  main  line  to  Cambridge. 

19  M.  Bye  House,  a  favourite  summer-resort  for  schools,  clubs, 
societies,  and  workshop  picnics,  was  built  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VI.; 
it  belonged,  with  the  manor,  to  Henry  YIII. ,  and  afterwards  passed 


from  London.  42.  BTE  HOUSE.  417 

into  priyate  handt.  It  if  now  a  hotel  (R.  A  B.  from  4«.,  pens.  7b, 
6(2.).  There  are  still  some  remains  of  the  old  hnilding,  partioularly 
the  embattled  OaU  House.  The  grounds  are  large  and  beautiful, 
affording  abundant  open-air  amusements,  and  the  attractions  include 
the  *Great  Bed  of  Ware*,  which  measures  12  ft.  both  in  length  and 
in  breadth.  This  bed  formerly  stood  at  Ware  (see  below)  and  is  al- 
luded to  by  Shakspeare  (Twelfth  Night,  ill,  2). 

Bye  House  gave  its  name  in  lf{83  to  the  famous  'Bye  House  Plot\  which 
had  for  its  object  the  assaMination  of  Charlee  II.  and  the  Duke  of  York, 
as  they  trarelled  that  way.  The  supposed  conspiracy,  which  was  headed 
by  Bumbold,  then  owner  of  the  manor,  is  said  to  have  failed  on  account 
of  the  premature  anrival  of  the  King  and  his  brother.  It  led  to  the  ex- 
ecution of  Bumbold,  Algernon  Sidney,  Lord  William  Bussell,  etc.  Whether 
a  conspiracy,  however,  existed  at  all,  is  doubtful. 

From  Bye  House  the  railway  goes  on,  yi&  (90V4  M.)  St.  MargaretU 
(branch  to  Widford  and  Buntingford)  and  (22^4  H.)  Ware,  to  mV4  H.) 
Hertford  (Salishury  Arms;  Dimsdale  Hotel),  with  a  castle  of  the  10th  cent., 
and  one  of  the  17th  cent.,  now  used  as  a  school.  To  the  W.  of  Hertford 
is  PanMhanger,  the  seat  of  Earl  Gowper,  with  a  fine  collection  of  paintings. 
See  Baedek€r*t  Great  Britain. 


43.  St.  Albans. 

Midland  Railway,  from  St.  Pancras,  20  M.,  in  Vx-1  ^^'  (fares  2«.  8d., 
1«.  8d.,  no  second  class);  London  A  North  Western  Railway,  from  Eustoo, 
42  M.,  in  >/4-iV4  hr.  (fares  2a.  8d.,  2«.,  U.  8(i.)-,  or  Great  Northern  Rail- 
way, from  King's  Cross,  23Vs  H.,  in  "/i-l  hr.  (fares  2i.  M.,  U.  Sd.).  Our 
chief  description  applies  to  the  nrst-mentioned  route,  for  which  through- 
tickets  may  be  obtained  at  any  of  the  Metropolitan  Bailway  stations.  — 
During  the  summer-months  a  four^horse  Coach  runs  to  St.  Albans  daily, 
starting  at  11  a.m.  from  the  Hotel  Victoria,  and,  for  the  return-journey, 
from  the  Peahen,  St.  Albans,  at  4  p.m.  r2V2  hrs. ;  fare  10<.,  return  16<.). 
The  drive,  passing  the  Welsh  Harp,  Hendon,  Edgware,  Bushey,  and  Wat- 
ford, is  picturesque  and  pleasant. 

The  first  stations  on  the  Midland  Railway  are  Camden  Road, 
Kentish  Toton,  Haverstock  HiU,  Finchley  Road,  and  West  Hamp- 
stead,  Hampstead  here  lies  on  the  right  and  Willesden  on  the  left, 
while  the  spire  of  Harrow  church,  also  on  the  left,  may  be  seen  in 
the  distance.  From  (5  M.)  Cricklewood,  where  we  leave  London 
fairly  behind  us,  electric  tramways  run  to  If  endon  and  Edgware 
and  to  Willesden  Green  and  Harlesden  (Nos.  73,  74,  p.24).  -—  7  M. 
Hendon,  with  a  picturesque  ivy-grown  church,  is  situated  near  the 
Welsh  Harp  Reservoir,  an  artificial  lake,  formed  as  a  reservoir  for  the 
Regent  Canal.  The  lake  attracts  large  numbers  of  anglers  (fishing- 
tickets  at  the  inn,  ^Old  Welsh  Harp';  is.  and  2s.  6d.  per  day),  and 
is  also  a  favourite  resort  of  skaters  in  winter.  —  9  M.  Mill  Hill, 
with  a  Roman  Catholic  Missionary  College  and  a  noted  Public  School 
for  boys,  founded  in  1807  by  Nonconformists.  Sir  Stamford  Raffles 
died  here  in  1826 ;  and  William  WUberforce  lived  here,  and  built 
the  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Paul  (1836). 

About  1  M.  to  the  W.  lies  Edgware,  and  a  little  more  remote  is 
Whitchurch,  also  called  Little  Stanmore.  While  Handel  was  choir-master 
to  the  Duke  of  Chandos  at  Canons,  a  magnificent  seat  In  this  neighbourhood, 

Babdskkb*b  London.    15th  Edit.  27 


418  43.  ST.  ALBANS.  ExcursUma 

now  demolished,  he  acted  as  organist  in  the  chnrch  of  Whitchurch 
(171&-21).  The  church  still  contains  the  organ  on  which  he  played,  and 
also  some  fine  wood-carving,  and  the  monument  of  the  Duke  of  Ghandos 
(d.  1774)  and  his  two  wivefl.  A  blacksmith's  shop  in  Edgware  is  said  to  be  the 
place  where  Handel  conceived  the  idea  of  his  'Harmonious  Blacksmith\ 
—  There  is  a  good  golf-course  at  JStanmorey  near  Edgware. 

12  m.  EUtree,  a  pictuiesque  village  in  Hertfoidshiie,  wliich 
we  heie  enter.  Good  fishing  may  be  obtained  in  the  Elstree 
reservoir.  —  15  M.  Radlett.  —  20  M.  St.  Albans,  see  below. 

If  the  London  and  North  Western  Railtoap  route  be  chosen,  the  traveller 
is  recommended  to  visit,  either  in  going  or  returning,  Harrow  on  the 
Hill  (p.  120;  station  1  M.  from  the  town). 

The  traveller  who  is  equal  to  a  walk  of  10  M. ,  and  is  fond  of 
natural  scenery,  may  make  the  excursion  to  St.  Albans  very  pleasantly 
as  follows.  By  railway  from  Kiif^'s  Cross  (Oreat  Northern  Railway)  to  (9  M.) 
Bamet;  thence  on  foot,  vi&  (1  M.)  Chipping  Barnet  and  (5H.)  Elstree  (see 
above),  to  (10  M.)  Wa{ford^  a  station  on  the  London  and  North  Western 
Railway;  and  from  Watford  by  rail  to  (7M.)  St.  Albans.  If  the  traveller 
means  to  return  by  the  Great  Northern  Railway,  he  should  take  a  return- 
ticket  to  Bamet.  —  Near  Hatfield^  the  first  station  on  this  line  in  returning 
from  St.  Albans,  is  Hatfield  House^  the  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Salisbury, 
a  fine  mansion  built  in  the  17th  cent,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  palace,  in 
which  Queen  Elizabeth  was  detained  in  a  state  of  semi-captivity  before 
her  accession  to  the  throne  icomp,  Baedeker^s  Great  Britain). 

St.  Albans  (Peahen,  R.  from  4«.,  pens.  12a.;  George,  R.  from 
35.  6d.,  pens.  9<.,  both  near  the  Abbey)  lies  near  the  site  of  Veru- 
iamium,  the  most  important  town  in  the  S.  of  £ngland  during  the 
Roman  period,  of  which  the  fosse  and  fragments  of  the  walls  remain. 
Its  name  is  derived  from  St.  Alban,  a  Roman  soldier,  the  protomartyr 
of  Christianity  in  onr  island,  who  was  executed  in  A.D.  304.  Holm- 
hurst  Hill,  near  the  town,  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  scene  of  his 
death.  The  Roman  town  fell  Into  ruins  after  the  departure  of  the 
Romans,  and  the  new  town  of  St.  Albans  began  to  spring  up  after 
795,  when  Offall.,  King  of  Mercia,  founded  here,  in  memory  of 
St.  Alban,  the  magnificent  abbey,  of  which  the  fine  church  and 
a  large  square  gateway  are  now  the  only  remains.  Pop.  (1901)  16,019. 

The  ♦Abbey  Chnrch  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross ,  with  a  tower  at 
the  point  of  intersection,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  and  largest 
churches  in  England.  It  was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  cathedral  in 
1877,  when  the  new  episcopal  see  of  St.  Albans  was  created.  It 
measures  560  ft.  in  length  (being  the  longest  chnrch  in  England 
after  Winchester  Cathedral) ,  by  176  ft.  in  breadth  across  the 
transepts ;  the  fine  Norman  Tower  is  145  ft.  high.  The  earliest 
parts  of  the  existing  building,  In  which  Roman  tiles  from  Yerula- 
mium  were  freely  made  use  of,  date  from  the  11th  cent.  (ca.  1080) ; 
the  Choir  was  built  in  the  13th  cent,  and  the  Lady  Chapel  In  the 
14th  century.  An  extensive  restoration  of  the  building.  Including 
a  new  E.E.  W.  Front,  with  a  large  Dec.  window,  and  large  new  win- 
dows in  the  N.  and  S.  transepts,  has  been  completed  at  an  expense 
of  130,000^.,  by  Lord  Grimthorpe  (d.  1905),  who  acted  as  his  own 
architect  without  conspicuous  success.    St.  Albans,  320  ft.  above 


from  London,.  43.  ST.  ALBANS.  419 

the  f  ea,  llei  Mgher  than  any  other  English  cathedral.  See  Fronde's 
^Annals  of  an  English  Abbey*. 

The  fine  Interior  (adm.  to  nare  free;  to  E.  parts  of  the  chorch  6<f., 
tickets  from  the  yerger)  has  recently  been  restored  with  great  care.  The 
Navb,  the  longest  Gothic  nave  in  the  world,  shows  a  curious  intermixture 
of  the  Korman,  E. B.,  and  Dee.  stales;  and  the  change  of  the  pitch  of 
the  Taoltilig  in  the  S.  aisle  has  a  singular  e£fect.  The  *  Stained  OlassWin- 
dowi  in  the  N.  aisle  date  from  the  15th  century.  The  painted  ceiling  of.  the 
Choib  dates  from  the  end  of  Edward  EH.'s  reign  (1337-77),  that  of  the 
Chahcbl  from  the  time  of  Henry  VI.  (1422-61).  Some  traces  of  old  fresco 
painting  have  been  discovered  in  the  K.  Tsamsspt.  The  Screen  behind  the 
altar  in  the  Psbsbttkkt  is  of  very  fine  mediaeval  workmanship,  and  has 
been  restored  and  fitted  with  statues.  Many  of  the  chantries,  or  mortuary 
chapels  of  the  abbots,  and  other  monuments  deserve  attention.  The 
splendid  brass  of  Abbot  de  la  Mare  is  best  seen  from  the  aisle  to  the  8. 
of  the  presbytery.  In  the  Saint's  Chapel  are  the  tomb  of  Duke  Humphrey 
of  Gloucester  (d.  1447),  brother  of  Henry  V.,  and  the  shrine  of  St.  Alban, 
overlooked  by  an  ancient  oaken  Waidi  OalUry.  In  the  K.  aisle  of  the  pres- 
bytery are  parts  of  the  Shrine  of  St.  AmpMbcOtu.  The  Ladp  Chapel  has  been 
restored  with  great  richness  and  provided  with  a  marble  floor. 

The  Oate^  the  only  remnant  of  the  conventnal  buildings  of  the 
abbey,  stands  to  the  W.  of  the  church.  It  is  a  good  specimen  of 
the  Perp.  style.    It  was  formerly  nsed  as  a  gaol,  and  is  now  a  school. 

About  3/4  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  abbey  stands  the  ancient  Church  of 
8t.  Michael,  which  Is  Interesting  as  containing  the  tomb  of  the  great 
Sir  Francis  Bacon,  Baron  Verulam  and  Viscount  St.  Albans,  who 
lived  at  Gorhambury  House  here.  The  monument  (*slc  sedebat')  is 
by  Ryshrach.  To  reach  the  church  we  turn  to  the  left  (W.)  on  leaving 
the  cathedral  and  descend  to  the  bridge  over  the  Vety  near  which 
is  a  little  Inn  (The  Fighting  Cocks),  claiming  to  have  been  built 
In  796.  The  keys  of  the  church  are  kept  at  No.  13  St.  Mlchaers 
Cottages.  The  present  Qorhamhury  House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of 
Verulam,  1 V2  M.  to  the  W.  of  St.  Mlchaers,  is  situated  in  the  midst  of 
a  beautiful  park,  and  contains  a  good  collection  of  portraits  (no  adm.). 

St.  Albans  was  the  scene  of  two  of  the  numerous  battles  fought 
during  the  Wars  of  the  Boses.  The  scene  of  the  first,  which  ushered  in 
the  contest,  and  took  place  in  1466,  is  now  called  the  Key  Field;  the 
other  was  fought  in  1461  at  Bamard^s  Heathy  to  the  K.  of  the  town,  just 
beyond  St.  Peter's  Church. 


44.   Harrow.  Rickmansworth.  Chenies.  Chesham. 

To  Chesham,26M.,  by  Mstbofoutak  Bailwat  from  JSoifcer  Street  Station 
in  l-l'/ibr.  (fares  4«.,  2«.,  no  second  class),  or  by  Gb£at  Cemtkal  Railway 
from  Marylebtme  Station  (same  time  and  fares).  The  two  lines  run  side  by 
side  as  far  as  Harrow  (the  first  station  on  the  Great  Central  Railway), 
beyond  which  they  coalesce. 

Harrow  may  be  reached  also  by  the  London  &  North-Western  Railway 
(see  p.  418),  the  station  of  which  at  Harrow  in  1  M.  to  the  N.  of  the 
Metropolitan  station.  —  South  Harrow,  aboat  2  H.  to  the  S.  of  the  latter, 
is  served  by  a  branch  of  the  Great  Central  Railway,  diverging  at  Neasden 
(p.  420)  and  running  Tit  Wembley  Hill  and  Sudbury  it  Harrow  Road. 
There  is  also  another  South  Harrow  Station,  served  by  a  branch  of  the 
District  Railway,  beginning  at  Mill  HUl  Park  (p.  82)  and  running  vi&  Ealinff 
Common,  North  Eaiing,  Park  Royal,  Perivdle  Alpherton^  Sudbury  Town,  and 
JSudbury  EiU, 

27* 


420  44.  HARROW-ON-THE-HILL.      Exewsiona 

Baker  Street  Station  (PI.  B,  20),  see  p.  29.  —  Passing  the 
suburban  stations  of  8t  John's  Wood  Road  (for  Lord's  Cricket- 
ground,  p.  290),  Marlborotigh  Road,  Swiss  Cottage^  FindUey  Road, 
West  Hampstead,  Kilbum-Brondeshwy ,  and  WiUesden  Green,  the 
train  quits  London  and  enters  a  pleasant  open  country.  To  the 
right  is  Oladsione  Pcurk  r96  acres),  formerly  the  Dollis  Hill  Estate, 
opened  to  the  public  in  1901.  Mr.  Gladstone  was  a  frequent  guest 
of  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen  at  Dollis  Hill  House.  Mark  Twain  occupied 
the  house  for  some  months  in  1900.  To  the  N.  of  (6  M.)  Kingsbury-- 
Neasden,  with  the  works  of  tl»e  Metropolitan  Railway  Co.  including 
the  electric  generating  station,  lies  the  Brent  oi  Welsh  Harp  Reservoir 
(p.  417).  At  (8  M.)  Wembley  Park  is  a  popular  recreation-ground 
(see  p.  49).  On  the  other  (N.E.)  side  of  the  railway  is  the  course 
of  Wembley  Golf  Club. 

10  M.  Harrow-on-the-Hill  (King's  Head;  Roxborough ;  Railway), 
a  town  of  10,220  inhab.,  famous  for  its  large  public  school,  founded 
in  1671  by  John  Lyon,  a  yeoman  of  the  parish,  and  scarcely 
second  to  Eton.  It  has  numbered  Lord  Byron,  Sir  Robert  Peel, 
Sheridan,  Spencer  Perceval,  Palmerston,  Card.  Manning,  and  nu- 
merous other  eminent  men  among  its  pupils.  The  oldest  portion  of 
the  school  is  the  red  brick  building  dating  from  1608-15,  now 
known  as  the  ^Fourth  Form  Room' ;  its  panels  are  covered  with  the 
names  of  the  boys,  including  those  of  Byron,  Peel,  and  Palmerston. 
The  chapel  (1857),  library  (1863).  and  speech-room  (1877)  are  all 
modern.  The  number  of  scholars  is  now  about  630.  Harrow  church 
has  a  lofty  spire  whi^h  Is  a  conspicuous  object  in  the  landscape  for 
many  miles  round.  The  churchyard  commands  a  most  extensive 
♦View.  A  flat  tombstone,  on  which  Byron  used  to  lie,  when  a  boy, 
is  still  pointed  out. 

From  the  Metrop.  station  at  Harrow  a  branch-line  runs  to  RuUl^ 
(with  Buislip  Park  and  Reservoir)  and  Uxbridge  (p.  422);  and  from  the 
L    &  N.W.  station  another  runs  to  (2  M.)  8tanmore  (^,  iiS), 

I2V2  M.  Pinner  (Queen's  Head,  a  quaint  *Queen  Anne*  build- 
ing), a  prettily  situated  little  town,  with  a  14th  cent,  church.  — 
About  31/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  (Ui/g  M.)  NoHhwood,  with  numerous 
suburban  villas  and  an  excellent  golf-course,  is  Harefield,  the  scene 
of  Milton's  ^Arcades'  (omnibus  daily). 

18  M.  BickmanBworth  (Victoria,  R.  or  D.  3d.  6d. ;  Swan),  a  small 
paper-making  town  (5627  inhab.)  on  the  Chess,  near  its  confluence 
with  the  Golne,  is  a  good  centre  for  excursions.  Large  quantities 
of  watei-cress  are  grown  here  for  the  London  market.  To  the  S.E., 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Golne,  lies  Moor  Park  (Lord  Ebury),  with 
its  flne  timber. 

Walkers  are  advised  to  quit  the  railway  here  and  to  proceed  to  (9V«  M.) 
Chesham  on  foot,  through  the  *Yalley  of  the  Ohess.  We  turn  to  the  right 
on  leaving  the  station,  pass  under  the  railway-bridge,  aseend  a  few  steps 
immediately  to  the  left,  cross  the  railway  by  a  foot-bridge,  and  enter 
Rickmamtforth  Fark^  with  its  flne  old  trees.  The  walk  acrosa  the  park 
brings  us  in  26  min.  to  a  road,  which  we  cross  obUquely  (to  the  left)  to 


from  London.  44.  OHESHAM.  421 

»  meadow-path  leading  to  0/4  hr.)  the  highroad  to  Ghenies,  at  a  point 
near  the  Tillage  of  Chorlqf  Wood  (Vt  M.  from  the  station,  see  below).  About 
ls/4  M.  farther  on  we  tarn  to  the  right  (sign-post)  for  O/z  M.)  the  pietar- 
eaque  and  neatly-built  village  of  Ohenies  (*Bed{ford  Inn).  The  *ifortuarp 
Chapel  attached  to  the  church  here  contains  the  tombs  of  the  Bussells 
from  166(B  to  the  present  day,  affording  an  almost  unique  instance  in 
Sngland  of  a  family  burial-place  of  this  kind  (admission  on  application 
to  the  keeper  at  the  manor-nouse).  The  finest  monument  is  that  of  *'Anne, 
Countess  of  Bedford  (d.  1653),  the  builder  of  the  chapel.  Lord  William 
Bussell  (beheaded  in  1688)  p.  417),  Lord  John  Russell  (d.  1878),  and  Lord 
Ampthill  (d.  1884)  are  buried  here.  Adjoining  the  church  is  a  fragment 
of  the  fine  old  manor-house.  Matthew  Arnold  and  J.  A.  Froude  frequently 
TisitedChenies  for  the  sake  of  the  angling  in  the  Ohess.  —  To  reach  Chesham 
we  follow  the  lane  between  the  church  and  the  manor-house,  and  then  turn 
to  the  left  along  anath  through  beech- wood  on  the  slope  of  the  valley  of 
the  Chess.  View  ot  the  Elizabethan  mansion  of  Lcttimer  (Lord  Chesham), 
on  the  other  side  of  the  stream.  After  about  1/4  hr.  we  pass  through  two 
gates.  20  min.  Lane,  leading  to  the  left  to  Ghalfont  Road  station  (see  be- 
low). InlOmin.  more  we  descend  to  Uie  right  to  the  road  and  follow  it 
to  the  left  to  (2  H .)  Chesham  (see  below). 

Perhaps  no  walk  in  England  of  equal  length  combines  more  literary 
interest  and  rural  charm  than  that  from  Rickmansworth  to  Slough  described 
below  (ca.  18  H.).  Turning  to  the  right  (see  p.  420)  and  passing  under  the 
railway,  we  follow  the  road  to  (2  H.)  MapWe  Orou.  A  field-path  to  the 
right  brings  us  in  10  min.  to  another  winding  road,  which  we  follow  (to 
the  right)  to  (about  2  If.)  the  lodge-gates  of  Hfevlandt  Park.  We  here  pass 
through  a  gate  on  the  left  and  continue  by  an  avenue  of  trees  to  (8  min.) 
a  gate  and  road.  We  cross  the  stile  and  follow  a  field-path  (several  stiles) 
descending  to  (V2  H.)  Chalfoni  St.  Oiles  (see  below)  in  the  vallev.  —  From 
Ohalfont  St.  Giles  we  follow  the  road  to  the  S.,  passing,  after  l>/4  M.,  the 
solitary  old  Quaker  meeting-house  of  Jordam  (to  the  right),  in  Uie  little 
graveyard  attached  to  which  lie  Elwood  (Milton's  secretary),  William  Penn 
(d.  1718),  his  wife,  and  iive  of  his  children.  About  V«  M.  farther  on  we 
turn  to  the  right  and  follow  the  road  (or  througTi  Wilton  Park)  to  (IV4M.) 
Beaconsjleld  (p.  423).  Thence,  as  at  pp.  423,  422,  to  (3  M.)  Bumham  Beeches^ 
(4M.)  Stoke  PofftMf  and  (2H.)  Slough  or  Bumham  Beeches  Station. 

20  M.  Chorley  Wood  and  (22  M.)  Chalfoni  Road  are  each  ahout 
11/2  M.  from  Cheniti  (see  ahove).  They  are  also  nearly  equidistant 
(3-3V2  M.)  from  the  charming  little  village  of  Chalfoni  St,  Giles, 
The  cottage,  at  the  S.E.  end  of  this  ylllage,  In  which  Milton  finished 
*Paradise  Lost'  and  began  'Paradise  Regained'  (1666-68),  lias  been 
left  unchanged  since  the  poet's  time  and  contains  a  few  relics 
(adm.  6d.,  a  party  3d.  each). 

From  Chalfont  Road  a  branch-line  runs  to  (5  M.)  Chesham 
(Crown,  R.  2#.  6i.,  D.  3a.  6rf.;  George),  a  quaint  old  town  with  7245 
inhah.,  mainly  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  boots,  beechwood 
furniture,  cricket-bats,  tennis-rackets,  wooden  spades,  French 
hoops,  etc.  Ducks  and  water-cress  are  also  largely  produced.  Fine 
view  from  the  Park, 

Beyond  Clhalfont  Road  the  railway  is  continued  via  Amersham  and 
Great  kissenden  to  Wendover  and  Aylesbury  and  thence  to  Verney  Junction 
(see  Baedekei'^s  Handbook  to  Great  Britain). 


The  picturesque  rural  district  to  the  W.  of  London,  lying 
between  the  railway  just  described  and  the  Great  Western  main 
line  (p.  422)  and  hitherto  accessible  by  road  only  (comp.  pp.  422, 


422  45.  WINDSOR.  Exewsions 

423)  is  now  trayersed  by  a  new  railway  via  Northolt  Junction, 
Denham  (2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Harefleld,  p.  420),  Oerrard's  Cross^  and 
Beaconsfield  (p.  423;  22  M.  from  Paddington  Station)  to  HighWy^ 
eomhe  and  (35  M.)  Princes  Risborough  (see  Baedeker^ s  Great  Britain). 
Trains  start  both  from  Paddington  and  from  Marylebone  station 
(p.  26).  In  the  former  case  they  reach  Northolt  vife  North  Aeton, 
Park  Boyal^  Twyford  Abbey,  Perivale  (see  below),  and  Qreenford;  in 
the  latter  case  yi&  South  Harrow  (p.  419). 


45.  Windsor.   Eton. 

Windaor  is  reached  by  the  Great  Wkstkbm  Railwat,  from  Paddington 
StaUon  (21  H. .  in  Vt-i  hr.;  fares  3f.  6d.,  2i.  Sd.,  it.  Qd.\  return- tickets, 
available  for  7  days ,  &s.  6<l. ,  1«. ,  available  from  Frid.  to  Tues. ,  is.  6d., 
3f.  6d.,  St.)\  or  by  the  South  Wxstkrk  Railway,  from  Waterloo  Station^ 
v.  side  (SoVzH.,  in  I-IV4  hr. ;  same  fares).  —  A  coach  sometimes  runs  in 
summer  from  London  to  Windsor  (see  p.  25). 

Great  Western  Railway.  The  first  station  is  Royal  Oak,  — 
Weatboume  Park^  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Hammersmith  (p.  387). 

Westbourne  Park  is  also  the  junction  for  a  rail  motor-car  service,  by 
a  loop-line  running  via  A^orth  Acton,  Park  Royal,  Twyford  Abbey,  Perivale 
(interesting  Early  Korman  church),  Oreer^ord,  CasUtbar  Part,  and  Drayton 
Green,  to  rejoin  the  Windsor  line  at  West  Ealing  (see  below). 

Farther  on  Kensal  Oreen  Cemetery  (p.  331)  lies  on  the  right. 
The  next  stations  are  Acton,  Ealing  Broadway,  and  West  Ealing, 
all  of  which  are  served  also  by  a  railway  motor-car,  starting  from 
Willesden  Junction  (p.  27)  and  going  on  vi&  Drayton  Oreen  and 
Castlebar  Park,  to  Oreen  ford.  —  At  (7^/4  M.)  Hanwell,  on  the  left, 
is  the  extensive  Middlesex  County  Lunatic  Asylum,  with  a  fine  park 
and  accommodation  for  1000  inmates.  At  (9M.)  SowtAaW  a  branch- 
line  diverges  on  the  left  to  Brentford,  11  M.  Hayes,  From  (1372  M.) 
West  Drayton  branch-lines  run  to  Uxbridge,  a  busy  little  town, 
prettily  situated  on  the  Colne,  3  M.  to  the  N. ,  and  to  Staines  (p.  423). 
—  I6Y2  M.  Langley,  or  Langley  Marish,  has  an  old  church,  the  S. 
porch  of  which  contains  an  interesting  parish  library,  established 
here  by  Sir  John  Kederminster  in  the  reign  of  James  I.  The  walls 
of  the  library  are  carved  and  painted  in  late-Jacobean  style,  and 
the  doors  of  the  cupboards  are  adorned  with  views  of  Eton  and 
Windsor  as  they  were  in  the  early  17th  century.  Tradition  says 
that  Milton  (whose  father's  estate  was  at  Horton,  2  M.  distant)  was 
in  the  habit  of  studying  here,  and  his  chair  is  still  shown.  Key  at 
the  almshouses  near  the  churchyard  gate.  —  At  (I8V2  M.)  Slough 
(Crown;  Royal)  passengers  who  are  not  in  a  through  Windsor  carriage 
change.    Motor-omnibus  to  Eton  and  Windsor,  see  p.  421. 

Sir  William  Eerschel  (d.  1822)  and  Sir  John  Bertehel  (d.  1871),  the 
celebrated  astronomers,  made  many  of  their  important  discoveries  in 
their  observatory  at  Slough. 

A  pleasant  ramble,  through  picturesque  scenery ,  may  be  made  from 
Slough  to  (2  H.)  Stoke  Poget  and  (4  M.)  Bumham  Beeches.  Motor-omnibuses 
ply  daily  from  the  station  to  Stoke  Poges,  Famham,  and  Beaconed.  — 


from  London.  46.  WINDSOR.  423 

The  churchyard  at  Stoke  Poges  Is  the  scene  of  Gray^s  famous  '£legy\  and 
now  contains  his  grave.  He  lies  in  his  mother's  tomb,  close  to  the  S.  wsiU 
(tablet)  of  the  church.  The  touching  epitaph  on  the  tomb,  written  by  Gray 
himself,  describes  Mrs.  Gray  as  the  mother  of  several  children,  *only  one 
of  whom  had  the  misfortune  to  survive  her\  A  monument  to  the  poet's 
memory  has  been  erected  in  the  adjacent  Btoke  Parky  a  fine  property  which 
once  belonged  to  the  descendants  of  William  Penn.  Sir  Edward  Coke  en- 
tertained Queen  Elizabeth  at  Stoke  Park  in  1601.  —  *Bumham  Beechei,  to 
the  K.W.  (omn.  from  Slough  in  summer,  fare  Is.  6d.),  the  finest  in  Eng- 
land, have  been  secured  as  a  public  resort  by  the  Corporation  of  London, 
and  walks  and  drives  have  been  cut  through  them.  Their  autumnal  colour- 
ing is  very  lovely  (see  ^Bumham  Beeches',  by  F.  G.  Heath;  it.).  —  About 
3  V.  to  the  N.  of  Bumham  Beeches  lies  Beaeon^eld  (Saracen's  Head;  White 
Hart;  railway,  see  p.  422),  with  houses  (named  Hall  Bam  and  QrtgorUt) 
once  occupied  respectively  by  Edmund  Waller  (d.  1687)  and  Edmund  Burkt 
(d.  1797),  of  whom  the  one  lies  buried  in  the  churchyard,  and  the  other 
in  the  church  (memorial  tablet).  It  furnished  the  title  oi  Benjamin  JHsraeliy 
Earl  of  Beaeontjleld  (d.  1881),  who  lived  at  Hughtnden,  8  H.  to  the  W., 
and  is  buried  in  a  vault  near  the  village-church. 

Before  reaehing  Windsoi  the  train  crosses  the  Thames,  passing 
Eton  College  (p.  429)  on  the  right.  The  station  is  on  the  S.W.  side 
of  the  town,  in  George  Street,  ahont  ^4  M.  from  the  Castle. 

South  Wbstbbk  Railway.  Route  to  Clapham  Junction ,  see 
p.  404 ;  the  branch-line  to  Richmond  and  Windsor  diverges  here 
to  the  right  from  the  main  South  Western  line,  and  approaches  the 
Thames  at  Wandsworth  station  (p.  386).  We  next  pass  Putney 
(p.  386),  Barnes  fp.  387 i  branch-line  to  Ckiswicky  p.  387,  and  Kew 
Bridge,  p.  413),  Mortlake  (p.  387),  and  Richmond  (p.  411).  The 
line  skirts  the  Old  Deer  Park,  crosses  the  Thames  by  a  bridge  of 
three  arches,  and  reaches  8U  Margaret's  and  Twickenham  (p.  388 ; 
on  the  left  a  branch-line  to  Teddington ,  p.  389,  Hampton  Wick, 
p.  389,  and  Kingston,  p.  389).  Next  stations,  Feltham,  with  a  large 
reformatory  for  youthful  criminals,  Ashford,  and  Staines,  a  pictur- 
esque old  town,  deriving  its  name  from  the  'stones'  which  once 
marked  the  limits  of  the  jurisdiction  of  London  in  this  direction. 

A  branch  lof  the  South  Western  Railway  runs  hence  to  the  left  to 
Virginia  Water  (p.  431),  Ascot  (p.  431),  and  Reading.  Kear  Egham,  the 
first  station  beyond  Staines  on  this  line,  is  the  plain  of  Runnimede^  where 
King  John  signed  the  Magna  Charta  in  1215  (see  p.  zviii).  Above  the  town 
rises  Cooper^t  Hill  (view),  celebrated  in  Denham's  well-known  poem.  The 
Royal  Indian  Engineering  College  here  was  closed  in  1906.  Beyond  Egham 
is  Mt.  X00,  on  the  top  of  which  is  the  enormous  Roytd  Holloway  College 
for  Women^  erected  and  endowed  by  Mr.  Holloway  (of  the  'Pills')  at  a  cost 
of  UOOOyQOOL,  and  now  a  school  of  the  University  of  London  (p.  341).  The 
buildings,  which  are  very  handsome  and  elaborate,  form  a  Quadrangle 
650  ft.  long  by  376  ft.  wide  and  have  accommodation  for  about  2(X)  students. 
Orders  to  view  the  college  and  picture-gallery  on  Wed.  afternoons  may  be 
obtained  by  writing  to  the  secretary. 

Our  train  runs  in  a  N.W.  direction.  Stations  Wraysbury  and 
Datchet  (Manor  House;  Stag).  On  the  left  rise  the  large  towers  of 
Windsor  Castle,  round  the  park  of  which  the  train  describes  a  wide 
circuit.  Before  reaching  Windsor  we  cross  the  Thames,  on  the  N. 
hank  of  which  lies  Eton  College  (p.  429).  The  station  lies  in  - 
Datchet  Road,  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  town,  Vi^.  from  the  ^Hundred 
Steps'  (p.  426),  and  ^2  ^*  ^^^^  ^^^  ii^&^i^  entrance  to  the  Castle. 


424  46.  WINDSOR.  Excursions 

Windsor.  —  Hotels.  Whitx  Habt,  B.  it. -Is.  Bd.,  B.  it,  6d.-3«., 
D.  i-6«.;  Gastlb,  High  St.,  B.  or  D.  3f.  Bd.\  Botal  Adslaids,  facing  the 
Long  Walk;  Bbidob  Hodsb,  B.  from  2<.  6d.,  well  spoken  of.  Gbbistopheb, 
these  two  at  Eton.  —  Bestauraata.  At  the  White  Bart  ana  other  hotels ; 
also  Layton^  1  Thames  St.  s  TuU^  18  Thames  St. 

Oab  to  any  part  of  Windsor  Is.  6d.,  to  Eton  2«.  Carriage  to  Virginia 
Water  and  back  18s.  6d.,  with  two  horses  21s. ,  to  Bumham  Beeches  and 
Stoke  16«.  and  23<.,  to  Bumham  Beeches  and  Dropmore  16s.  and  26t. 

Omnibus  seyeral  times  daily  to  Eton  (Id.)  and  BUmgh  (3d.)  \  to  Maiden- 
head, 8  or  4  times  daily  (fid.).  Excursion  Brakes  in  the  season  to  Virginia 
Water  (retum-fSare  2«.),  Bumham  Beechet  (3«.),  Stole  Poget  C2s.),  etc.  —  Brakes 
to  Atcot  in  the  race-week  (p.  64),  return-fare  5«.,  on  cup-day  7s. 

TTindsor,  a  town  in  BerksMre,  with  21,477  Inliab.,  Ib  prettily 
Bitnated  on  the  right  hank  of  the  Thames^  oppoBite  Eton  (p.  429) 
and  DaXehtt,  with  both  of  whteh  it  Ib  connected  by  bridges.  The 
Town  Hallf  completed  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  contains  some 
good  royal  portraits,  an  ancient  mayor's  chair  in  carved  oak,  and  a 
marble  bnst  of  Charles  Knight  (1791-1873),  a  native  of  Windsor. 
On  the  ontside  are  statues  of  Qneen  Anne  and  Prince  George  of 
Denmark.  The  Parish  Churchy  High  Street,  has  some  quaint  mon- 
uments, carved  railings  by  Grinllng  Gibbons,  and  mosaics  by  Sal- 
ylati.  The  Oarrison  Church  (Holy  Trinity)  contains  numerous  mili- 
tary memorials.  There  are  also  several  interesting  old  houses  in 
the  town,  but  the  absorbing  attraction  is  — 

♦^Windsor  Castle,  which  towers  above  the  town  on  the  W.  side. 

Windtor  (Anglo-Saxon  Windletofra^  in  Domesday  Book  Windetoret%  an 
estate  presented  by  Edward  the  Confessor  to  the  monks  of  Westminster 
Abbey,  was  purchased  by  William  the  Conqueror  for  the  purpose  of 
erecting  a  castle  on  the  isolated  hill  in  its  centre.  The  building  was 
extended  by  Henry  I.  and  Henry  II.  s  and  Edward  III.,  who  was  bom  at 
Windsor,  caused  the  old  castle  to  be  taken  down,  and  a  new  one  to  be 
erected  on  its  site,  by  William  of  Wykehamy  the  art-loving  Bishop  of 
Winchester.  Under  succeeding  monarchs  Windsor  Castle  was  frequently 
extended  \  and  finally  George  IV.  began  a  series  of  extensive  restorations 
under  the  superintendence  of  Bir  Jeffrey  WycUtville.  The  restoration, 
completed  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Victoria  at  a  total  cost  of  9(X),0(X)/.,  left 
the  Castle  one  of  the  most  magnificent  royal  residences  in  the  world. 

The  Castle  consists  of  two  courts ,  called  the  C/pper  and  Lower 
Wards^  surrounded  by  buildings ;  between  the  two  rises  the  Round 
Tower  (p.  429).  The  wards  and  the  northern  terrace  are  always 
open  to  the  public;  admission  to  the  eastern  terrace  is  granted  in  the 
absence  of  the  court  on  Sundays  only,  from  2  to  4  p.m.,  when  the 
Guards*  band  plays.  The  State  Apartments  are  shown  (in  the  absence 
of  the  court)  on  Tuesdays,  Wednesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays, 
from  Ist  April  to  30th  Sept.,  11-5;  In  Oct.,  11-4;  from  1st  Nov.  to 
31st  March,  11-3.  Tickets  (on  Tues.  &  Thurs.  Is.,  children  6d.; 
other  days  gratis)  are  obtained  at  the  Lord  Chamberlain's  Office 
(PI.  1).  Admission  elsewhere  is  gratis  at  all  times.  Visitors  are 
permitted  to  look  into  (but  not  to  enter)  the  Albert  Chapel  at  the 
above  times.  The  Rourkd  Tower  is  open  at  the  same  hours,  bat  in 
summer  only.  St.  Oeorge*s  Chapel  Is  open  dally,  except  Fridays  and 
holy  days,  from  12.30  to  3  pr4j  divine  wyvlce  1»  celehrated  on 


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from  London,  46.  WINDSOR.  425 

Snndays  at  11  a.m.  and  5  p.m. ;  on  week-dayB,  at  10.30  a.m.  and  5  p.m. 
The  Private  Apaitments  of  the  King  are  not  sho-wn. 

From  High  Street  we  ascend  the  Castle  Hill^  at  the  foot  of 
which  is  the  Jubilee  Statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  by  Boehm,  and,  pass- 
ing through  Henry  VIII 'i  Oatewatfj  first  enter  the  Loweb  Wabd. 
On  the  S.  side  of  this  ward,  between  the  Salisbury  Tower  (PL  14) 
and  Henry  llJ'e  Tower  (PI.  15),  are  the  residences  of  the  Military 
Knights  of  Windsor  j  and  on  the  N.  side  are  the  Horseshoe  Cloisters, 
St.  George's  Chapel  (see  below),  and  the  Albert  Chapel  (p.  426).  The 
Horseshoe  Cloisters,  originally  bnilt  by  Edward  IV.  in  the  shape  of 
a  fetter-lock,  one  of  that  king's  badges,  were  thoroughly  restored  by 
Sir  G.  G.  Scott.  At  their  N.W.  angle  is  the  entrance  to  the  BeU 
Tower  (PL  12 ;  apply  to  the  keeper),  built  by  Henry  lU.,  the  oldest 
part  of  the  castle  as  it  now  stands.  This  tower  contains  a  peal  of 
eight  bells  and  is  also  known  as  the  Curfew  Tower  and  as  Julius 
Caesar's  Tower.  Anne  Boleyn  is  said  to  have  passed  her  lastjught 
here,  and  the  dungeons  contain  the  names  and  dates  of  interest- 
ing prisoners.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  cloisters  are  the  principal 
(W.)  entrance  to  St.  George's  Chapel  and  a  cross  Indicating  the 
site  of  the  burial-vaults.  To  the  N.  are  the  Chapter  Library  and 
the  residences  of  the  Canons.  A  passage,  skirting  the  N.  side  of 
St.  George's  Chapel,  leads  hence  to  the  Dean^s  Cloisters,  whence  a 
covered  passage  leads  to  the  S.,  between  St.  George's  Chapel  and 
the  Albert  Chapel,  to  the  Lower  Ward,  and  another  to  the  N., 
through  the  Canons^  Cloister,  to  the  Hundred  Steps  (open  till  sunset), 
which  descend  to  Thames  Street. 

On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  lower  ward  stands  *St.  George's  Chapeli 
or  chapel  of  the  Knights  of  the  Order  of  the  Garter,  begun  in  1474, 
in  the  late- Gothic  style,  by  Edward  IV.  on  the  site  of  a  chapel  of 
Henry  I.,  and  completed  by  Henry  VIII.   We  enter  by  the  S.  door. 

The  'Interior  possesses  a  handsome,  fan-shaped,  vaulted  roof.  In  the 
Brayt  Chapel^  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  Is  a  cenotaph  of  the  Prince 
Imperial  (d.  1879),  with  a  recumbent  figure  in  white  marble,  erected  by 
Queen  Victoria.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  S.  aisle  is  the  Beaufort  Chapel,  ad- 
joining which  is  the  tomb  of  Victoria's  father,  the  Duke  of  Kent  (d.  1820), 
consisting  of  an  alabaster  sarcophagus  with  a  recumbent  marble  effigy, 
designed  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  (d.  1878),  and  executed  by  Boehm.  The  large 
W.  window  contains  old  stained  glass,  with  portraits  of  Knights  of 
the  Garter.  At  the  end  of  the  K.  aisle  is  a  marble  statue  of  Leopold  I. 
of  Belgium  (d.  1879),  by  Boehm.  In  the  angle  a  brass  tablet  commemorates 
a  son  of  King  Theodore  of  Abyssinia,  who  died  in  England  in  1879  and 
is  buried  here.  In  the  adjoining  Urswick  Chapel  is  tbe  monument  of 
Princess  Charlotte,  designed  by  Wyatt,  Near  the  middle  of  the  N.  wall  is 
a  mural  tablet  to  George  V.  of  Hanover  (d.  1878),  by  Count  Gleichen.  The 
Butfand  Chapel,  opposite  the  Braye  Chapel,  contains  a  monument  of  1513.  — 
The  richly-adorned  *  Choir  contains  the  stalls  of  the  Knights  of  the  Garter, 
with  their  coats-of-arms  and  banners.  At  the  E.  end,  above  the  altar, 
is  a  fine  stained-glass  window  to  the  memory  of  Prince  Albert,  erected 
from  designs  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott.  The  reredos  below  the  window,  sculptured 
in  alabaster  marble,  is  very  fine.  The  subjects  are  the  Ascension, 
Christ  appearing  to  his  Disciples,  and  Christ  meeting  Hary  in  the  Oar- 
den.    To  the  left  of  the  altar,  below  the  King^t  Clout,  is  some  fine  wrought 


426  45.  WINDSOR.  Excurnons 

iron-work,  formerly  on  Edward  IV/s  tomb  and  said  to  have  been  ezecnted 
by  the  Antwerp  painter  Quinten  Matsyi.  The  vault  in  the  middle  of  the 
choir  eontaias  *the  remains  of  Henry  VIII.,  hie  wife  Jane  Seymonr,  and 
Charles  I.  In  the  N.  choir-aisle  are  a  monument  to  Dean  Wellesley  (d. 
1883),  by  BoOm;  the  ffasHngs  Chantry;  a  statue  of  Earl  Harcoart(d.  1830); 
and  the  plain  tomb  of  Edward  IV.  At  the  E.  end  of  this  aisle  is  the 
entrance  to  the  Chapter  Room.  In  which  is  preserved  the  state-sword  of 
Edward  III.  At  the  E.  end  of  the  S.  choir-aisle  is  a  fine  statue  of  the 
German  Emperor  Frederick  III.,  by  Boehm^  beside  which  Is  the  Lincoln 
Chapel.  In  the  S.  choir-aisle  also  are  the  plain  marble  tombstone  of 
Henry  VI. :  the  Oxenbridffe  Chantry  (1523);  and  a  handsome  monument 
erected  by  Queen  Victoria  to  her  aunt,  the  Duchess  of  Gloucester  (d.  1857). 
—  A  subterranean  passage  leads  from  the  altar  to  the  royal  Tomb  House 
under  the  Albert  Chapel,  situated  on  the  E.  side  of  St.  George*8  Chapel, 
in  which  repose  George  III.,  George  IV.,  William  IV.,  and  other  royal 
personages.    (Divine  service,  etc.,  see  p.  424.) 

The  *Albert  Gliape],  adjoining  St.  George's  Chapel  on  the  E., 
was  originally  erected  by  Henry  VII.  on  the  site  of  the  ancient 
chapel  of  St.  Edward  as  a  mansolenm  for  himself ;  but,  on  his  ulti- 
mate preference  of  Westminster ,  it  was  transferred  for  a  similar 
nse  to  Cardinal  Wolsey.  On  the  fall  of  that  prelate  it  reverted  to 
the  Crown,  and  was  subsequently  fitted  up  by  James  II.  as  a  Roman 
Catholic  chapel.  An  indignant  mob,  however,  broke  the  windows 
lind  otherwise  defaced  it,  and  ^Wolsey's  Chapel*,  as  it  was  called, 
was  doomed  to  a  century  of  neglect,  after  which  George  III.  con-, 
structed  the  royal  tomb-house  beneath  it.  Queen  Victoria  undertook 
the  restoration  of  the  chapel  in  honour  of  her  deceased  husband, 
Prince  Albert,  and  made  it  a  truly  royal  and  sumptuous  memorial. 
The  restoration  was  superintended  by  Sir  O.  O.  Scott.  —  Visitors 
may  inspect  it  from  the  door. 

The  interior,  beautified  with  coloured  marble,  mosaics,  sculpture, 
stained  glass,  precious  stones,  and  gilding,  in  extraordinary  profusion 
and  richness,  must  certainly  be  numbered  among  the  finest  works  of  its 
kind  in  the  world,  though,  it  must  be  owned,  rather  out  of  harmony 
with  the  Gothic  architecture  of  the  building.  The  ceiling,  which  re- 
sembles in  form  that  of  St.  George's  Chapel,  is  composed  of  Venetian 
enamel  mosaics,  representing  in  the  nave  angels  bearing  devices  relating 
to  the  Prince  Consort,  in  the  chancel  angels  with  shields  symbolical  of 
the  Passion.  The  false  window  at  the  W.  end  is  of  similar  workman- 
ship, and  bears  representations  of  illustrious  personages  connected  with 
St.  George's  Chapel.  At  the  sides  of  the  W.  entrance  are  two  marble 
figures  —  the  Angels  of  Life  and  Death.  The  walls  are  decorated  with 
a  series  of  pictures  of  scriptural  subjects  inlaid  with  coloured  marbles, 
by  Triqtteti^  in  which  28  difierent  kinds  of  marble  have  been  introduced. 
Above  each  scene  is  a  white  marble  medallion  of  a  member  of  the  royal 
family,  by  Miss  Susan  Durante  while  between  them  are  bas-reliefs,  emblem- 
atical of  the  virtues.  Round  the  edges  of  the  pictures  are  smaller  re- 
liefs in  white  and  red  marble,  and  other  ornamentation.  Below  the 
marble  pictures  is  a  dark-green  marble  bench*,  and  the  floor,  which  is 
very  handsome,  is  also  of  coloured  marbles.  Most  of  the  modem  stained 
glass  windows  exhibit  ancestors  of  the  Prince  Consort;  those  in  the 
chancel  are  filled  with  Scriptural  subjects.  The  reliefs  of  the  reredos, 
which  was  designed  by  Sir  0.  6.  Scott ,  and  is  inlaid  with  coloured 
marble,  malachite,  porphyry,  lapis  lazuli,  and  alabaster,  have  for  their 
subject  the  Resurrection.  At  the  £.  end  of  the  nave  stands  the  *Cenotixph 
of  the  Prince,  by  Triqueti,  consisting  of  a  handsome  sarcophagus,  en- 
riched with  reliefs,  bearing  the  recumbent  figure  of  Prince  Albert  in 
white  marble.  Kear  the  W.  door  is  the  sarcophagus  of  the  Duke  of  Albany 


from  London.  46.  WINDSOR.  427 

(d.  1884),  yoangest  son  of  Queen  VictorU,  with  a  reeombent  figure  In  white 
marble,  in  the  dress  of  the  Seaforth  Highlanders.  Between  these  is  the 
sarcophagus  of  metal  and  Oriental  onyx  of  the  Duke  of  Clarence  (d.  1893), 
eldest  son  of  Sing  Edward  VII.,  with  a  recumbent  bronxe  figure,  in.  the 
uniform  of  the  lOrh  Hussars.  —  The  mosaics  are  by  SalviaH.  The  chapel 
is  68  ft.  long,  28  ft.  wide,  and  60  ft.  high. 

A  little  beyond  the  tlcket-offfce  (PI.  1)  is  a  gateway  (placard) 
leading  to  the  entrance  to  the  State  Apartments  (PI.  3),  on  the 
North  Terraee,  which  is  625  yds.  In  length  and  commands  a  charm- 
ing Yiew  across  the  Ilome  Park,  Eton,  etc.  In  the  distance  are 
Stoke  Park  and  Stoke  Poges  chnrch  (p.  423).  The  *Ea9t  Terrace,  open 
on  Snn.  only,  2-4  (see  p.  424),  affords  a  good  view  of  the  imposing 
E.  facade  of  the  castle;  broad  flights  of  steps  descend  from  it  into 
the  Flower  Qardtn  (shown  on  application  to  Mr.  Thomas,  Royal 
Gardens,  Frogmore),  which  is  tastefully  laid  out,  and  embellished 
with  marble  and  bronze  statues  and  a  fountain. 

The  State  Apartments,  the  suite  in  which  foreign  soTcreigns 
are  entertained  when  paying  visits  of  state,  are  now  shown  as  far  as 
possible  in  the  condition  in  which  they  are  actually  used.  They  are 
handsomely  decorated  and  contain  sumptuous  furniture  and  many 
good  pictures.  On  Wed.  and  Sat.  in  summer  visitors  are  admitted 
without  escort;  on  other  days  the  hurried  manner  in  which  the 
rooms  are  shown,  renders  it  difficult  for  visitors  to  see  them  satis- 
factorily. 

From  the  entrance  we  proceed  to  the  right  through  a  dark  V£8tibui,s, 
with  two  columns  designed  by  Wren  and  a  collectian  of  china,  to  the  — 

GxANO  Staircase,  on  which  is  a  large  collection  of  arms  and  armour 
of  various  countries  and  dates.  Halfway  up  stands  Chantrep^t  statae  of 
George  IV.    At  the  top  we  turn  to  the  left. 

The  Statk  Ant£-Room,  originally  the  'King's  Public  Dining  £oom\ 
contains  carvings  by  Qrinling  Gibbons^  an  allegorical  ceiling-painting,  by 
Yerrio  (Banquet  of  the  Gods) ,  a  painting  of  St.  Agnes ,  by  Domenichino 
(above  the  fireplace),  and  two  sedan-chairs,  used  by  (^ueen  Charlotte. 

The  Bdbkms  Room  contains  eight  pictures  by£t(6«n«,  iacluding  portraits 
of  himself  and  his  wife  Helena  Fourment,  and  a  St.  Martin  by  Van  Dyck. 

The  Council  Chamber,  or  Orand  Bedcftambery  U  hung  with  paintings 
by  Italian  old  masters:  CanaJetto,  Two  Venetian  scenes^  ZuecarelH^  Three 
landscapes;  Saiats  by  (7en<«/f«cAi  (over  the  fireplace),  DomsnicAtno,  Guercino, 
and  Guido  Reni;  GitUio  Romano^  Sacrifice  to  Jupiter  (over  the  door). 

The  King's  Closet  contains  chiefly  Netherland'sh  works,  by  />ofi,  N. 
Berchemy  P.  Wouverman^  Miereveliy  Brouwer^  Tenieriy  etc.  Kear  the  middle, 
Flemish  School^  Triptych. 

The  Queen's  Closet  ha?  examples  of  Claude^  Fousiin^  Lely,  Holbein,  etc. 

The  Picture  Gallery.  To  the  left:  Guido  Reni  lover  the  door),  Cleo- 
patra; Hans  Holbein,  *Four  portraits;  M.  van  Romeretoayle^  Honey-changer  J ; 
^Mdozto  da  Forli  (over  the  fireplace),  Duke  of  Urbino,  in  the  robes  of  the 
Garter;  Rembrandt^  Portrait  of  his  mother;  Correggio^  John  the  Baptist; 
GarofalOy  Holy  Family;  Rembrandt,  Portrait;  A.  del  Barto^  Holy  Family; 
H€mt  Bocky  Portraits ;  Claude,  Landscape ;  Ca»7?««a,  Scene  ia  Venice ;  Franda- 
biffiOi  Portrait  of  a  Florentine  gardener;  Tiiiany  Portraits  of  himself  and  a 
friend ;  Tiepolo^  Study  of  a  negro ;  Baaanoy  Portrait. 

The  Queen's  Ball  Room,  or  Van  Dyck  Room,  is  exclusively  devoted 
to  portraits  by  that  master.  The  best  are  those  of  Henry,  Count  de  lierg; 
^Charles  I.  and  his  family;  Hary,  Duchess  of  Richmond;  Henrietta 
Maria,  wife  of  Charles  I.  (four  portraits) ;  Lady  Venetia  Digby ;  George, 
secona  Duke  of  Buckingham,   and  his  brother  Lord  Francis  Yilliers; 


428  46.  WINDSOR.  Excursions 

'Children  of  Charles  I. ;  Head  of  Charles  I.  from  three  different  points 
of  Tiew,  painted  as  an  aid  in  the  execution  of  a  bust;  Lucy,  Countess 
of  Carlisle;  Charles  II.  when  a  boy;  Portrait  of  the  master  himself; 
*Th^  three  eldest  children  of  Charles  I. ;  Charles  I.  on  horseback. 

The  QoBXM^s  Audibhcx  Chaxbbb.  The  ceiling  is  decorated  with  paint- 
ings by  Verrio  (Catharine  of  Braganxa,  consort  of  Charles  II.,  as  Britannia). 
The  walls  are  hung  with  tapestry,  designed  by  De  2Voy,  depicting  the 
story  of  Esther  and  Mordecai.  Over  the  doors  are  portraits  of  Prince 
Freaerick  Henry  and  William  II.  of  Orange,  by  Honthortt,  and  an  old 
portrait  of  Ha^,  Queen  of  Scots,  by  Janet.  The  chairs  and  sofa  here 
were  brought  from  the  private  apartments  of  Queen  Victoria.  The  earrings 
in  this  and  the  next  room  are  by  Grinlinff  GiNxm*. 

The  Pbksbnox  Chambxb  has  a  ceiling  painted  by  Verrio^  representing 
Catharine  of  Braganaa  attended  by  the  Virtues.  The  walls  are  hung  with 
tapestry  continuing  the  story  of  Esther  and  Mordecai,  and  with  portraits 
by  Knelkr^  Mignard^  and  Lilly.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  bast  of 
Handel,  by  RovhiUae.    The  fireplace  is  by  Bacon. 

The  GuABo  Chambbb.  The  walls  are  hung  with  trophies  of  arms  of 
the  early  19th  century  and  with  royal  portraits.  In  the  centre  of  the  room, 
to  our  right,  is  the  equestrian  armour  of  Sir  Christopher  Hatton,  Chancellor 
to  Queen  Elisabeth,  which  was  worn  by  Dymoke,  the  King's  Champion,  at 
the  coronation  of  George  IV.  Near  the  windows  are  four  glass-cases,  con- 
taining swords  and  armour.  In  one  of  these  cases  is  a  silver  shield  in- 
laid with  gold,  presented  by  Francis  I.  of  France  to  Henry  VIII.,  and 
said  to  have  been  executed  by  Benvenuto  Cellini  from  the  design  of  An- 
drea Mantegna^  but  in  reality  the  work  of  a  French  artist  of  the  late 
i6th  century.  Here  are  also  suits  of  boy's  armour  made  for  Prince  Henry 
and  Prince  Charles,  sons  of  James  I.  At  the  sides  of  the  room  are  busts 
of  Marlborough,  after  Rytbi'och,  and  Wellington,  by  Chantrey.  Over  the 
busts  hang  two  small  silken  bannerets,  which  are  annually  replaced  on 
June  18th  and  August  13th,  the  anniversaries  respectively  of  the  battles 
of  Waterloo  (1816)  and  Blenheim  (170 i),  by  the  dukes  of  Wellington  and 
Marlborough  as  a  condition  of  the  tenure  of  the  estates  voted  to  their 
ancestors  by  Parliament.  In  the  panelling  by  the  fireplace  on  our  left  are 
five  bronze  plaques  from  the  pedestal  of  the  statue  of  Louis  XIV.,  formerly 
in  the  Piace  des  Victoires  (now  Place  de  la  Concorde)  in  Paris. 

St.  Gbobob's  Hall,  200  ft.  long  and  34  ft.  wide,  has  a  ceiling  adorned 
with  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  Knights  of  the  Garter  since  1350.  The 
banners  are  those  of  the  twenty-six  original  knights.  On  the  oak-panelled 
walls  are  portraits  of  the  Sovereigns  of  the  Order  from  James  I.  to 
George  IV.,  by  Van  Dyek,  Lely^  Kneller^  Gainsborough,  etc.,  and  armour  and 
weapons  of  the  17th  century.  The  carved  oak  throne  is  a  copy  of  the  co- 
ronation-chair in  Westminster  Abbey.  The  grand  organ  has  two  keyboards, 
one  playing  in  the  Private  Chapel. 

The  Gband  Exception  Room,  originally  meant  for  a  ball-room,  is 
magnificently  decorated  in  the  rococo  stvle,  and  is  hung  with  tapestry 
representing  the  story  of  Jason  and  Medea.  At  the  N.  end  is  a  vase  of 
malachite ,  the  gift  of  the  Emperor  Nicholas  of  Russia. 

The  Thbonb  Room,  formerly  used  for  investitures  of  the  Order  of  the 
Garter,  is  decorated  in  garter-blue.  It  cohtains  portraits  of  George  HI., 
George  IV.,  William  IV.,  Victoria,  and  Prince  Albert,  all  in  the  robes  of 
the  Garter.    The  throne  was  formerly  the  state-chair  of  the  King  of  Candy. 

The  Antb  Thbone  Booh  contains  five  good  landscapes  by  ZwcarelU. 
including  his  masterpiece  ('Meeting  of  Isaac  and  Rebecca,  on  the  left),  and 
busts  of  Victor  Emmanuel  II.,  Napoleon  III.,  and  William  II.,  the  German 
emperor. 

The  Watbbloo  Chambbb,  or  Gband  Dining  Boom,  98  ft.  long  by  47  ft. 
broad,  in  the  Eliaabethan  style,  is  hung  with  portraits  of  Wellington, 
Bliicher,  Castlereagh,  Mettemich,  Pius  VH.,  Emp.  Alexander,  Canning, 
W.  von  Humboldt,  and  others  associated  with  the  events  of  1813-15,  painted 
by  Lawrence.  Beeeheyy  Piekersgilly  Wilkie^  etc.  The  carvings  are  by  Orinling 
OUfbont.  The  carpet,  woven  in  one  piece,  was  made  by  Indian  convicts  at 
Agra.    This  room  is  used  as  a  theatre  for  ^command^  performances. 


from  London.         45.  ETON  COLLEGE.  429 

The  Gbakd  Yxstibdub,  46  ft.  long,  28  ffc.  broad,  and  46  ft.  high,  eon- 
tains  an  extenaive  collection  of  fire-arms,  from  the  16th  to  the  19th  cent. ; 
also  some  elaborate  Oriental  arms  and  armour.  On  the  walls  are  four 
historical  paintings  by  West  (scenes  from  the  reign  of  Edward  III.)  and 
trophies  of  Oriental  arms  and  armour.  In  the  corner  to  the  right  is  the 
Khalifa's  black  flag,  captured  at  Omdurmaa  in  1888. 

On  the  8TAIR0A8B  by  which  we  quit  the  building  is  a  good  portrait 
of  Sir  Jeffrey  Wyattville,  the  architect  (dee  p.  431),  by  Sir  T,  Lawrmee. 

On  quitting  the  State  Apartments  we  find  ourseWeB  in  the  Uppbb 
Ward.  To  the  left  of  the  exit  (PI.  4)  is  the  large  Quadrangle 
(no  adm.),  on  the  W.  side  of  which,  at  the  foot  of  the  Round  Tower, 
is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Charles  II. ,  by  Strado^  with  reliefs  on  the 
pedestal  by  Orinling  Oibhons,  Oeorge  IV.* a  Gateway,  in  the  middle 
of  the  S.  side,  at  the  end  of  the  Long  Walk  (p.  431),  is  the  principal 
entrance  to  the  palace,  and  is  used  by  royal  carriages  only.  On  the 
E.  side  are  the  King*8  Private  Apartments, 

Those  who  are  fortunate  enough  to  gain  admittance  to  the  Private 
Apartments  will  eigoy  one  of  the  greatest  artistic  treats  that  England  has 
to  offer.  The  rooms  are  most  sumptuously  fitted  up.  and  contain  a  magni- 
ficent collection  of  Chelsea,  Oriental,  Dresden,  and  S4vres  china,  medieeval 
and  Oriental  cabinets,  gold  and  silver  plate,  pictures,  etc.  In  toe  Library 
are  a  valuable  collection  of  drawings  and  miniatures  by  Solbein,  Leonardo 
da  Vinci^  Raphaol.,  and  Michael  Angela ;  numerous  bibliographical  and  other 
treasures,  including  an  unpublished  if  S.  by  Dickens^  a  Bible  once  belong- 
ing to  Luther,  with  his  portrait  on  the  cover,  and  a  copy  of  Shak- 
speare*s  works  belonging  to  Charles  /.,  with  that  king's  autogniph  \  Queen 
Gharlotte^s  reading-desk, .  etc. 

The  Bound  Tower,  or  Keep ,  used  as  a  prison  down  to  1660, 
rises  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Upper  Ward,  on  an  eminence  42  ft.  high, 
surrounded  on  three  sides  by  a  deep  moat.  The  entrance  (adm.,  see 
p.  424)  is  on  the  N.  side,  close  to  the  vaulted  iVbrman  Gateway 
(PI.  2),  flanked  by  pinnacled  towers,  by  which  we  eventually  quit 
the  Upper  Ward.  The  battlements,  80  ft.  above  the  ground,  com- 
mand a  charming  **View,  embracing,  in  clear  weather,  parts  of  no 
fewer  than  twelve  counties.  The  bell,  weighing  17  cwt.,  was  brought 
from  Sebastopol.  The  tower  is  not  perfectly  symmetrical,  measuring 
102  ft.  by  95  ft.  (The  custodian  points  out  the  principal  places  in 
the  environs.) 

The  Royal  Stables ,  or  Mews ,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  castle ,  built 
at  a  cost  of  70,000Z.,  are  open  daily  from  1  to  3  p.m.  Tickets  of  ad- 
mission are  obtained  at  the  entrance  from  the  Clerk  of  the  Mews. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Thames,  10  min*.  to  the  N.  of  Windsor 
Bridge,  is  Eton  College,  one  of  the  most  famous  of  English  schools, 
founded  in  1440  by  Henry  VI.  The  number  of  pupils  on  the 
foundation,  or  Collegers,  who  live  at  the  college,  and  wear  black 
gowns,  is  about  70 ;  the  main  portion  of  the  establishment  con- 
sists of  the  Oppidans,  numbering  about  960,  who  live  at  the  resi- 
dences of  the  masters.  The  Eton  boys,  in  their  short  jackets,  broad 
collars,  and  tall  hats,  represent  a  large  section  of  the  youthful  wealth 
and  aristocracy  of  England.  The  governing-body  comprises  a  provost 
and  ten  fellows,  the  headmaster,  and  lower  master,  besides  whom 


430  45.  nOllE  PABK.  Excursions 

there  are  about  50  assistant  masters.  —  Those  who  desire  to  see  the 
schools  should  apply  to  Mr.  Oaffrey,  at  the  School  Office ;  the  chapel 
is  shown  on  application  to  Mr,  Mitchell,  116  High  Street,  Eton. 

The  main  school>huildings,  the  oldest  part  of  which  dates  from 
1523,  enclose  two  large  courts,  united  by  the  archway  of  the  clock 
tower.  The  centre  of  the  Outer  QuadrangUy  or  larger  court  to  the 
W.,  is  occupied  by  a  bronze  statue  of  Henry  YI.  On  its  W.  side  is 
the  Upper  School,  extending  along  the  whole  side  of  the  quadrangle, 
above  the  arcade,  which  was  built  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren.  The 
main  room  contains  marble  busts  of  English  monarchs  and  of  dis* 
tinguished  Etonians,  including  Chatham,  Fox,  Canning,  Peel,  and 
Wellington.  The  oak  panelling  on  the  walls  and  even  the  master's 
desk  are  covered  with  the  names  of  former  pupils  carved  by  the 
authorities  at  the  boys'  expense.  A  few  older  'autographs'  («.  g, 
C.  J.  Fox,  Shelley)  are  also  to  be  seen.  On  the  N.  side  of  the 
Quadrangle  is  the  Lower  School,  subdivided  by  modern  wooden 
partitions,  but  retaining  the  old  wooden  pillars.  —  The  Chapel  on 
the  S.  side,  the  only  part  of  the  eollege  that  is  not  of  brick,  is  a 
handsome  Gothic  building  somewhat  resembling  the  contemporary 
King's  College  Chapel  at  Cambridge.  It  dates  from  1476  but  has 
been  much  altered.  It  is  decorated  internally  with  modem  wood- 
carving,  stained-glass  windows,  and  mosaics.  In  the  ante-ohapel  is 
a  marble  statue  of  Henry  YI.,  by  Bacon  (1786).  On  the  outside  of 
the  W.  wall  is  a  statue  of  Bishop  Waynflete,  first  headmaster  of  the 
school  (unveiled  1893).  The  Inner  Quadrangle  is  bounded  by 
cloisters.  On  the  S.  side  are  the  dining-hall  (restored  1858)  of  the 
collegers,  and  the  library,  containing  a  rich  collection  of  classical 
and  Oriental  MSS.  In  Keate's  Lane,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  main  build- 
ings, are  the  Science  Schools,  the  Racquet  Court,  and  the  QueerCs 
/Sfc Aoo2«  (1888-90),  including  a  museum  and  a  chapel  for  the  Lower 
School.  The  Playing  Fields,  entered  from  the  inner  quadrangle, 
should  be  visited.  Comp.  Maxwell  Lyle's  *History  of  Eton  College' 
(1889).  See  also  the  amusing  little  book  entitled  'A  Day  of  My 
Life  at  Eton'. 

To  the  N.  and  E.  of  Windsor  lies  the  Home  Park ,  or  smaller 
park,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  the  Thames,  and  about  4  M.  in 
circumference.  A  carriage-road  leads  through  it  to  the  village  of 
Datchet  (p.  423) ,  si&ated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Thames,  1  M. 
to  the  E.  of  Windsor.  Heme's  Oak,  celebrated  in  Shakspeare's 
*Merry  Wives  of  Windsor',  formerty  stood  by  Queen  Elisabeth's 
Walk  (in  a  private  part  of  the  park);  in  1863,  however,  the  old  tree 
was  destroyed  by  lightning ,  and  a  young  oak  planted  in  its  place 
by  Queen  Yietoria.  Opposite  Datchet  is  the  small  royal  cottage 
Adelaide  Lodge,  near  which  are  the  Royctl  Kennels.  Farther  to  the 
S.  is  Frogmore  House,  once  the  seat  of  the  late  Queen's  mother, 
the  Duchess  of  Kent  (d.  1861),  and  now  lent  to  the  Prince  of  Wales. 
Its  grounds  contain  the  Duchess's  tomb  and  the  magnificent  mauso- 


from  London.  45.  GREAT  PABE.  431 

leum  erected  by  Queen  Yictorla  (d.  1901)  to  lier  husband,  Piince 
Albert  (d.  1861),  where  she  also  now  rests  beside  him.  In  the  latter 
are  also  monuments  to  Princess  Alice  (d.  1878)  and  Princcv  Leopold 
(d.  1884).  The  Boyal  Dairy  and  Shaw  Farm  can  be  seen  by  tickets 
obtained  from  the  Keeper  of  His  Majesty's  Priyy  Purse,  Bucking- 
ham Palace,  London. 

The  Oreat  Park,  1800  acres  in  extent,  lies  to  the  S.  of  Windsor, 
and  is  stocked  with  several  thousand  fallow  deer.  The  Long  Walk^ 
a  fine  avenue  of  elms  planted  in  1680,  leads  from  George  J  V.^s  Oate^ 
v>ay  (p.  429),  in  a  straight  line  of  nearly  3  M.,  to  Snow  Hill,  which 
is  crowned  by  a  statue  of  George  III.  (the  ^Oopper  Horse'),  by  West- 
macott.  From  the  end  of  this  avenue  a  road  leads  to  the  left  to  Vir- 
ginia Water,  passing  Cumberland  Lodge,  the  residence  of  Prince 
and  Princess  Christian,  and  SnUtVs  Lawn,  an  open  space  with  an 
equestrian  statue  of  Prince  Albert,  by  Boehm,  presented  to  the  late 
Queen  as  a  Jubilee  gift  by  the  women  of  England.  Virginia  Water 
(Wheatsheaf  Hotel;  carriage  from  Windsor  and  back  13a.  Bd.,  brake, 
see  p.  424 ;  coach  from  London ,  see  p.  25) ,  an  artificial  lake 
about  2  M.  long,  was  formed  in  1746  by  the  Duke  of  Cumberland, 
the  victor  at  Culloden,  in  order  to  drain  the  surrounding  moorland. 
The  views  from  various  points  around  the  lake  are  very  pleasing. 
The  Virginia  Water  station  of  the  S.W.  Railway  (p.  423)  is  about 
1^2  ^-  &om  the  lake.  —  Queen  Anne's  Ride,  running  almost 
parallel  with  the  Long  Walk,  leads  to  the  right  to  Ascot  (p.  423), 
the  scene  of  the  Ascot  Races  in  June,  on  the  occasion  of  which 
some  members  of  the  Royal  Family  usually  drive  up  the  course  in 
state  (comp.  p.  54). 

On  the  W.  Windsor  ia  adjoined  by  Cktper^  with  several  religious  and 
charitable  institutions  under  the  care  of  the  ^Glewer  Sisters'. 


46.  Gravesend.   Chatham.  Eochester. 

Sodth-Eastkbii  and  Chatham  Railway  (Korth  Kent  line)  from  Charing 
Cross,  Cannon  Street,  and  London  Bridge,  to  Oravesend  (24  H.,  in  i-lVs  hr. ; 
fares  3<.  6d.,  2s.  8d.,  2t.\  by  cheap  trains  2«.,  it.  6(1.,  ii.);  thence  to 
Strood  Junction^  Roehesttr,  and  Chatham  Central  Station  in  10-20  min.  more 
(fares  from  London  bs.  4d.,  3«.  id.,  2s.  8d.).  The  return-journey  may  be 
made  by  an  alternative  route  (same  fares)  vid  Bromley  and  Beckenham 
to  Victoria,  Holborn  Viaduct,  Ludgate  Hill,  and  St.  Paul's  (in  1  hr.  5  min. 
to  IV4  hr.). 

During  the  summer-months  Oravesend  may  be  reached  also  by  Steam- 
boat from  London  Bridge,  see  B.  87  (but  comp.  p.  88). 

A  pleasant  way  of  making  this  excursion  is  as  follows :  by  river  to  Orave- 
send, thence  on  foot  by  CobfMmHall  (p.  483)  to  (7  M.)  Rochester  and  Cfiatham, 
and  back  to  London  by  railway.   A  whole  day  will  thus  be  occupied. 

On  quitting  London  Bridge  station  the  train  first  traverses  the 
busy  manufacturing  districts  of  Bermondsey  fBermond's  isle') 
and  Rotherhithe ;  in  the  churchyard  of  the  latter  is  buried  Prince  Lee 
Boo  (d.  1784),  son  of  the  king  of  the  Pellew  Islands,  who  in  1783 
treated  the  shipwrecked  crew  of  the  Antelope  with  ^eat  kindness* 


432  46.  DAftTFORD.  Excursions 

The  train  then  stops  at  Spa  Road^  to  the  E.  of  which  lies  Southwark 
Park  (63  acres),  laid  out  by  the  Metropolitan  Board  of  Works  at  a 
cost  of  more  than  100, 0002. ,  not  far  from  the  extensive  Surrey  Docks 
(p.  142).  To  the  S.  is  Deptford  Park  (17  acres).  —  To  the  W.  of 
(8  M.)  New  Cross  lies  the  district  of  Hatcham,  with  Telegraph  Hili 
(PI.  G,  66),  opened  as  a  public  park  in  1895.  —  5  M.  St.  John's ;  6M. 
Lewisham  Junction.  We  next  pass  through  a  tunnel,  about  1  M.  in 
length,  and  arrive  at  (7  M.)  Blackheath  (p.  395).  Then  (9  M.)  Charl- 
ton y  close  to  the  station  of  which  is  the  old  manor-house  of  the 
same  name,  ascribed  to  Inigo  Jones.  [Another  service  reaches 
Charlton  \ii  Spa  Road,  Deptford,  Greenwich,  and  Westcomhe  Park,] 
Beyond  two  tunnels  we  reach  (10  M.)  Woolwich  Dockyard  and 
(10«/4M.)  Woolwich  Arsenal.  — 11 V4  M.  Plumstead,  with  Plumstead 
Marshes  on  the  loft.  —  13  M.  Abbey  Wood,  a  small  village  of  recent 
origin,  with  pleasant  surroundings,  and  some  scanty  remains  of 
Lesnes  Abbey,  an  Augustine  foundation  of  the  12th  century.  BostaU 
Heath  and  Boslall  Woods,  ^2  ^-  ^^  ^^^  S.,  now  form  a  public  park 
(132  acres),  under  the  London  County  Council.  —  Close  to  (14  M.) 
Belvedere  lies  Belvedere  House,  now  the  Uoyal  Alfred  Institution 
for  Merchant  Seamen.  —  151/2  ^  ^t^^  >  see  p.  390.  The  train 
crosses  the  river  Cray,  and  reaches  — 

17  M.  Dartford  (Bull;  Victoria),  a  busy  town  of  18,615  inhab. 
with  a  large  paper-mill,  a  machine  and  engine  factory,  a  gunpowder 
factory,  and  the  City  of  London  Lunatic  Asylum.  The  last,  with 
room  for  500  inmates,  stands  on  a  farm  of  192  acres;  a  new  chapel 
was  opened  in  1901.  The  first  paper  mill  in  England  was  erected 
here  at  the'  end  of  the  16th  century.  Foolscap  paper  takes  its  name 
from  the  crest  (a  fool's  cap)  of  the  founder,  whose  tomb  is  in  the 
church.   Dartford  was  the  abode  of  the  rebel  Wat  Tyler  (p.  100). 

Another  route  from  London  to  Dartford  passes  tbe  interesting  little 
town  of  (9  M.)  Eltham  (Greyhound;  Chequers ) ,  prettily  situated  among 
trees,  with  the  villas  of  numerous  London  merchants.  About  >/«  M.  to 
the  14.  of  the  station  lie  the  remains  of  Eltham  Palace,  a  favourite  royal 
residence  from  Henry  III.  (1216-72)  to  Henry  VIII.  (1609-47).  Queen 
Elizabeth  often  lived  here  in  her  childhood.  The  palace  is  popularly 
known  as  King  John's  Barn,  perhaps  because  the  king  has  been  confounded 
with  John  of  Eltham ,  son  of  Edward  II. ,  who  was  bom  here.  Part  of 
the  old  moat  surrounding  the  palace  is  still  filled  with  water,  and  we 
cross  it  by  a  picturesque  old  bridge.  Almost  the  only  relic  of  tlie  build- 
ing is  the  fine  ^'Banqueting  Hall  O^ey  kept  in  the  adjacent  lodge),  some- 
what resembling  Crosby  Hall  (p.  117)  in  general  style  and  dating  like 
it  from  the  reign  of  Edward  IV.  (1461-83).  The  hall  was  long  used  as  a 
bam,  and  some  of  its  windows  are  still  bricked  up.  The  ^Boof  is  of  chest- 
nut. Adjoining  the  hall  on  the  left  is  the  Court  House,  a  picturesque 
gabled  building,  formerly  the  buttery  of  the  Palace. 

There  were  originally  three  Parks  attached  to  Eltham  Palace,  one  of 
which,  the  Middle  Part,  has  attained  some  celebrity  in  modem  days  as 
the  home  of  the  Blenkiron  stud  of  race-horses,  which  produced  the  Derby 
winners,  Gladiateur  and  Blair  Athole.  The  Qreat  Park  haa  been  built 
over.  —  The  Church  of  Eltham  was  rebuilt  in  1874;  in  the  churchyard 
are  buried  Bishop  Home  (d.  1792),  the  commentator  on  the  Psalms,  and 
Doggetl,  the   comedian,  founder  of  *Doggetf8  Coat   and  Badge'  (p.  62). 


from  London.  46.  GBAVESEND.  433 

Van  Dyek  wu  assigned  sammer-quarters  at  Eltham  daring  Ms  stay  in  Eng- 
land (1632-41),  probably  in  the  palace. 

A  visit  to  Eltham  may  be  conveniently  combined  with  one  to  Green- 
wich (p.  391),  which  is  reached  by  a  pleasant  walk  of  4  M.  across  Black- 
neath  (p.  395)  and  Greenwich  Park;  or  to  Woolwich  (also  4  H.),  reached 
via  Shooters'  Hill  (p.  396).  Another  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  to 
(3  M.)  Chitlehurst. 

Beyond  Dartford  we  ciobb  the  Darent,  pass  (20  M.)  Oretnhithe 
(p.  391)  and  NorthfUet  (p.  391),  and  reach  (24  M.)  Oravesend. 


Chrayef end  (Clarendon  Royal  Hotel ;  Old  Falcon ;  New  Falcon  ; 
EoaherviUe)^  a  town  with  27,175  inhab.,  lying  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Thames,  at  the  head  of  Its  est  nary,  has  greatly  increased  in  size  in 
recent  years.  Tessels  on  their  way  np  the  Thames  here  take  pilots 
and  cnstom-house  officers  on  board,  and  ontward  bound  vessels  also 
usually  touch  here.  The  newer  parts  of  the  town  are  well  built,  hut 
the  streets  in  the  lower  quarter  are  narrow  and  crooked.  Gravesend 
possesses  two  good  piers,  the  Tovon  Pier  and  the  Royal  Terrace  Pier^ 
from  the  former  of  which  a  steam-ferry  plies  to  Tilbury,  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Thames.  On  the  W.  side,  towards  Northfleet, 
lay  RoaherviUe  Gardens,  a  favourite  resort,  now  closed.  The  parish- 
church  (St,  George's)  was  huilt  in  1731,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier 
church  which  had  been  humed  down  in  1520.  The  register  con- 
tains the  entry  of  the  burial  of  Pocahontas  (d.  1617),  the  Indian 
princess  who  married  Thomas  Wrolfe  or  Rolfe.  Windmill  Hill,  at 
the  back  of  the  town,  now  almost  covered  with  the  buildings  of 
the  increasing  suburbs,  commands  a  fine  ;view  of  the  Thames, 
Shooters'  Hill  (p.  396),  London,  with  the  hills  of  Highgate  and 
Hampstead  beyond,  and  (to  the  S.)  over  the  county  of  Kent,  with 
Gobham  Hall  (see  below)  and  Springhead  as  conspicuous  points. 

Pleasant  excursion  to  *Cohham  Ball^  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Darnley, 
in  the  midst  of  a  magnificent  park  (fine  rhododendrons,  in  bloom  in  June), 
7  M.  in  circumference,  lying  about  4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Gravesend.  (Tickets 
of  admission  to  the  house,  which  is  open  to  visitors  on  Fridays  from  2 
to  4  only,  may  be  obtained  at  Caddel  &,  Son^s,  1  King  Street,  Gravesend, 
and  at  the  Journal  Company,  Tl  High  Street,  Rochester,  price  it.  5  the  pro- 
ceeds are  devoted  to  charitable  purposes.)  The  central  portion  of  this 
handsome  mansion  was  built  by  Jnigo  Jonet  (d.  1653) ;  the  wings  date  from 
the  16th  century.  The  interior  was  restored  during  the  19th  century.  The 
fine  collection  of  pictures  includes  examples  of  Rubens  (•Tomyris  with 
the  head  of  Cyrus),  Van  Dyck^  Lelp,  Kneller^  and  other  masters.  A  chalet 
summer-house  in  the  grounds  is  a  bequest  of  Charles  Dickens  who  used  it 
as  a  study  when  it  stood  in  the  Wilderness  at  Gad's  Hill  Place  (see  below). 
—  The  Parish  Church  of  Cobham  contains  some  fine  old  brasses. 

The  railway  from  Gravesend  to  (7  M.)  Strood  passes  only  one 
station,  called  Higham^  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  of  which  (2V2  M.  from 
Strood)  is  Gad's  Hill  (Falstaff  Inn),  with  Gad's  Hill  Place y  the 
house  in  which  Charles  Dickens  died  (1870).  About  4  M.  to  the 
N.  of  Gad's  Hill  are  the  ruins  of  Cooling  Castle,  the  home  of  Sir 
John  Oldcastle,  the  supposed  prototype  of  Falstaff.    Cooling  Marshes 

Baedekes's  London.    15th  Edit.  28 


434  46.  ROCHESTER. 

are  the  scene  of  the  opening  incidents  in  Dickens's  'Great  Expec- 
tations*. —  Beyond  a  tunnel,  IY4  M.  in  length,  the  train  enters 
Strood  Junction,  the  station  for  Strood,  a  snhnrb  of  Rochester. 
Passengers  by  the  Maidstone  trains  change  carriages  here,  hnt  the 
direct  Rochester  trains  cross  the  Medway,  and  proceed  to  Rochester 
and  Chatham  (Central  Station),  which  practically  form  one  town. 
7^2  M.  Boohef ter  (Bull ;  Crown ;  King's  Head),  a  yery  ancient 
city,  with  a  pop.  of  30,622,  a  line  Norman  Castle,  and  an  interesting 
Cathedral,  and  (8  M.)  Chatham  (Sun;  Mitre),  with  40,753  inhab., 
an  important  naval  arsenal  and  military  station,  are  described  at 
length  in  Baedeker's  Qrtat  Britain, 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST 

OF 

EMINENT  PERSONS  MENTIONED  IN  THE  HANDBOOK 

The  following  ia  a  list  of  distingulslied  peraona  mentioned  in  the  Hand- 
book in  connection  with  their  birth,  death,  residence,  barial*plaee,  and  the 
like.  It  does  not  profess  to  give  the  names  of  architects  and  other  artists 
where  mentioned  in  connection  with  their  works,  nor  does  it  enumerate 
the  subjects  of  the  portraits  in  the  National  Portrait  Gallery  and  elsewhere. 


Abercromb7,Sir  Balph  91. 
Aberdeen,  Earl  of  229. 
Abemethy  101. 
Adams,  John  G.  230. 
— ,  John  Quincy  139. 
Addison  103. 227. 234. 240. 

261.  339.  370. 
Adelaide,  Queen  262. 
Alton,  Sir  Bobt.  239. 
Albany,  Duke  of  426. 
Albert.  Prince  99.    116. 

321.  337.  340.  426.  431. 
Aldrich,  Dean  248. 
Alexan^,  Queen 
Alfred,  King  132. 
Alleyn  97.376.378.397.400. 
Ampthill,  Lord  421. 
Andr^,  Major  232.  387. 
Andrewes,  Bp.  376.  139. 
Anne,  Queen  xxvi.  86. 240. 

325.  329.  389. 

—  of  Cleves  237. 

—  of  Denmark  (wife  of 
James  I.)  155.159.241. 

Arbuthnot  870. 
Argyll,  Dukes  of  234. 

329.  339.  388. 
Armstrong  380. 
Ame  211. 

Arnold,  Matthew  232. 421. 
— ,  Thomas  232. 
Arundel,  Earl  of  137. 158. 
Ascham,  Soger  98. 
Askew,  Anne  98. 100. 108. 

132. 
Atterbury  282.  370. 

Bacon,  Lord  126.  419. 
Bailie,  Joanna  371. 
Balchen  229. 
Balfe  229. 
Baliol  132. 
Banks  230.  345. 
Barham  94.  106. 
Barrow  108.  234.  248. 
Barry,  Sir  Chas.  161.  207. 


"5^- 


Bath,  Earl  of  242. 
Baxter  378. 
Bazalgette  xxxi.  126. 
Beaconsfield,Lord  99. 153. 

216. 217. 22B.  325.338.428. 
Beaumont  107.  146.  156, 

235.  376. 
Becket  112.  169. 
Beckford  108. 
Behn,  Aphra  247. 
Bell,  Dr.  Andrew  233. 
Bellot  393. 

Bennet,  W.  Stemdale  23a 
Bentham  248.  251.  266. 
Bentinck  269. 
Berkeley,  Bishop  211. 
Besant  94.  145.  371. 
Betterton  247. 
Bill,  Dr.  237. 
Blackstone  103.  154. 155. 

207. 
Blake,  Adm.  225. 
— ,  Wm.  104.  382.  384. 
Blessington,  Lady  262.338. 
Blomfield,  Gh.  J.  90. 
Blount,  Martha  270. 
Blow,  John  23a 
Boadicea  415. 
Boehm,  Sir  Edgar  93. 
Boleyu,  Anne  132. 213.321. 

406.  425. 
Bolingbroke  383. 
Bolton  102.  273 
Booth,  Barton  236. 
— ,  Mrs.  119. 
— ,  Wilkes  104. 
Boswell  148. 
Bourne,  Vincent  248. 386. 
Boyle  2(81.264. 
Bracegirdle,  Mrs.  247. 
Bradford  100. 
Bradley,  Dean  232. 
Bradshaw  223. 
Brassey,  Lady  336. 
Brooks,  Phillips  225. 
Brougham,  Lord  152. 207. 
I    27a  338.  362. 


Brown,  'Gapability'  410. 
Browning  m  284.  379. 
-,  Mrs.  m 
Brace,  Dayid  132. 
Brunei  127. 142.  231.  331. 
Buchan,  Dr.  247. 
Buckingham ;.    Dukes    of 

103.  136.  191.  239.  240. 

322.  333. 
Buckinghamshire,  Duke 

Buckland,  Wm.  231 

BuUer  229. 

Bulwer  Lytton  238.  266. 

270.  388. 
Bunyanl04.274.376.S78. 
Burbage  118. 
Burdett  Goutts,  Baroness 

147.  273.  372. 
Borgoyne  261. 
Burke  166.  271.  423. 
Burleigh,  Lord  153.  370. 
Bume- Jones  386. 
Burney  230.  233. 
Burns  126.  235. 
Burton  887. 
Busby  236.  249. 
Butler,  Sam.  211.  336. 
Buxton,  Sir  T.  F.  229. 
Byron  264.  266.284.  326. 

420. 

Oade,  Jack  xxv.  130. 395. 
Gsesar,  Sir  J.  118. 
Gains  102. 
Galonne  404. 
Gambridge,  Duke  of  212. 
Gamden  97.  234.  387. 
Gampbel],   Thomas  207. 

225.  235.  338. 
Ganningl52.217.228.266. 

268.  886.  387.  430. 
Garlyle  368. 
GaroUne,  Queen  262.  326. 

828.  387. 
Cartwright  248.  397. 
Gary  235.  387. 

28* 


436 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST 


GMaubon  331 
Gastlereagh  228.  262.  386. 
Oatharine  of  Aragon  128. 

—  of  Braganza  109.  368. 

—  Howard,  Queen  182. 
Cavalier  369. 
Cave  104. 

Cavendish,  Lord  F.  226. 
Cazton  224.  248. 
Cayley  159. 
Chamberlain  229.  272. 
Chapman  271. 
Charles  L  155.  164.  218. 

214.  223.  821.  426. 

—  II.  115.  132.  155.  213. 
240.  322.  325.  867.  392. 
417.  429. 

Charlotte,   Princess  262. 

413.  425. 
Chatham.  Lord  106.  228. 

872.  430. 
Chatterton  99. 
Chancer  124. 160.  236. 376. 

378. 
Chester,  Col.  283. 
Chesterfield  262.  270.  292 
Child  165.  270. 
Chnrchill  34S.  262. 
Cibber  158. 
Clarenee,  I>nkeB  of  137. 

310.  427. 
Clarendon  155.  242. 
Claypole,  Eliz.  241. 
Clive,  Kitty  388. 
— ,  Lord  103. 
Clyde,  Lord  233.  261. 
Cobbett  148.  149. 
Cobden  229. 
Cobham  132.  223. 
Cocker  378. 
Cuke  155.  423. 
Cole,  Sir  Henry  361. 
Coleman,  Geo.  248. 
Coleridge,  8.  T.  97.  236. 

271.  372.  373. 
Colet,  Dean  99.  112.  387. 
Collingwood  91.  94. 
Congreve,  Sir  W.  161. 
— ,  Wm.  (the  poet)  156- 

158.  232. 
Constable  371. 
Cooper,  Sir  Astley  91.  93 

231.  §77. 
Coote,  Sir  Eyre  229. 
Comwallis  91. 
Cottington,  Lord  242. 
Cotton,  Sir  John  291. 
Coverdale,  MUes  124. 
Cowley  236.  248. 
Cowperl55.332.248.406. 

416. 
Craggs  232. 
Cranmer  132. 


iCrashaw  103. 
Greighton,  M.  90.  93. 
'Croft  230. 

CromweU,  Henry  104. 342. 
—,  Oliver  96. 152. 213. 215. 

217.  223.  339.  373.  241. 
— ,  Richard  104.  416. 
— ,  Thos.  132.  152.  386. 
Crosby,  Lord  Mayor  382. 
— ,  Sir  John  117. 
Cruden  273.  375. 
Craikshank,  Geo.  94. 271. 
Cumberland,     Duke    of 

269.  481. 

Oalley  94. 
Danvers,  Lady  370. 
Darwin,  Chas.  230.  272 
David,  King  of  Scotland 

223. 
Davis,  Mary  262. 
Davy  247.  264.  270.  286. 
Day,  Thomas  108.  119. 
Dee  387. 

Defoe  96.  98.  104.  119. 
Denham  235. 
De  Quincey  211. 
Derby,  Earl  of  217.  262. 
Dibdin  278. 
Dickens,  Chas.  99. 235. 284. 

338.  872.  378.  429.  433. 
Digby  211. 
Disraeli,  Ben.,  see  Bea- 

consfield. 
Disraeli,  Isaac  416. 
Dodsley  260. 
Doggett  432. 
Donne  90.  107.  370. 
D'Orsay,  Count  338.  368. 
Douglas,  Gavin  160. 
Drayton  149.  236. 
Dryden  156.236.248.271. 
Dudley  132.  137.  226. 
Duncan,  Adm.  89. 
Dunstable  113. 
Dyck,  Van  128.  214.  433. 
Dyer  97.  24a  376. 

EasUake  331. 

Edward    the    Confessor 

234.  226.  343.  244.  424. 
Edward  L  106.  162.  220. 

224.  226.  2U.  416. 

-  II.  152.  220. 

—  IIL  150.  220.  243. 411. 
424. 

—  IV.  425.  426.  432. 

V.  241. 

VI.  97.  241. 892. 
vn.  xxii.  156.  263. 

Eleanor,  Queen  106.  162. 

243. 
Elgin,  Lord  300. 
Eliot,  George  868.  373. 


Elizabeth,  Queen  100. 115. 

137.  149.  154.  213.  226. 

239.  241.  325.  386.  391. 

393.  411.  423.  432. 
EUenborough  103.  262. 
Elmsley  248. 
Elwood  421. 
Emerson  376. 
Bnghien,  Due  d*  404. 
Erskine,  Lord  152.  207. 
Essex,  Earls  of  132.  168. 

223.  246.  880. 

Fairfax  339.  387. 
Faraday  169.  373. 
Farquhar  163. 
Farrar  159.  226. 
Fawcett,  Hen.126.232.882. 
Fawkes,  Guy  228. 
FeUows  304. 
Fielding  210.  388. 
Flaxman  265. 
Fleetwood  119. 
Fletcher,  Giles  248. 
— ,   John  107.  376. 
— ,  Lawrence  376. 
Foote  211.  247. 
Ford  290. 
Forster,  John  207. 
— ,  W.  E.  127.  229. 
Fox,  Charles    228.    231. 
!64.  272.  389.  387.  480. 
— ,  George  104. 
Francis ,   Sir  Philip  387. 
Franklin,Ben.  102.162.210. 
— ,  Sir  John  246.  261. 
Frederick  HI.  426. 
Frere  94.  126. 
Frobisher  96. 
Froude  24&  421. 
Fuller  122. 

Gainsborough  260.  413. 

Garrick  121. 161. 211.  234. 
236. 

Gaseoigne  152. 

Gaunt,  John  of  99.  160. 

Gay  234.  370. 

Gentile  118. 

George,  Prince  of  Den- 
mark 240.  329.  424. 

—  I.  213.  216. 

—  II.  341.  326.  829.  398. 

—  III.  103.  159.  261.  262. 
328.  426.  431. 

—  IV.  163.  223.  323.  326. 
424.  426.  427. 

Gibbon  248.  286.  386. 
Gibbons,  Grinling  90.  96. 

210.  211.  266.  367.  887. 

424.  427. 
Gibson  266.  331. 
Gladstone,    W.   E.    152. 

157.  220.  228.  262.  420. 


OF  EMINENT  PERSONS. 


437 


Gloucester  117.  392. 
Godolphin  232. 
Godwin,  Marr  180.  273. 
— ,  William  273. 
Goldsmith  94.   148.  U9. 

164.  234.  273.  876. 
Goodman  216.  237. 
Gordon,  General  89.  163. 

231. 
— ,  Lord  George  98. 
Gower  376. 
Grabe  284. 
GranvUle,  Lord  229. 
Grattan  228. 
Gray  119.  212.  236.  423. 
Gre8ham99.li2.116.ll6. 

118. 
Grey,   Lady    Jane   108. 

132.  137. 
Grote  103.  234.  266. 
Gwilt,  George  376. 
Gwynne,  Nell  166.  163. 

2U7.  260.  373. 

Haklnyt  248. 
Hale  161.  162. 
Halifax,  Earl  of  229.  242. 
Hallam,  Henry  89.  285. 
HaUey  264.  395. 
HammersIejjSirHagh  119. 
Hampden  155. 
Handel  234.  236.  270.  417. 
Hanway,  Jonas  229. 
Harconrt,  Earl  426. 
Hardy,  Sir  Thos.  394. 
Hargrave  232. 
Harold,  King  416. 
Harrington  225. 
Harvard  376. 
Harvey  101.  266. 
Hastings,    Warren    223. 

tjf)Q   24s 
Hatton,  Sir  Chris.  99. 246. 
Hayeloek  103.  163. 
Hawle  236. 
HazUtt  99.  271. 
Heber  90.  152. 
Henley  94. 
Henrietta  Maria,   Queen 

169.  263.  412. 
Henry  I.  424. 

—  n.  424. 

—  m.  132.  150. 220.  226. 
243.  426.  432. 

—  IV.  248. 

—  V.  242.  243. 

—  VI.  132. 186.  137.  416. 
426.  429.  480. 

—  Vn.  224.  239.  241. 

—  VUL 101.  HI.  213. 222. 
32L  822.  368.  370.  881. 
391.  892.  396.  405.  406. 
4tl.  416.  426.  432. 


Herbert,  Geo.  282.  248. 
— ,  Lord  210. 

—  of  Cherbury,  Lord  238. 
Herschel,    Sir  John  139. 

280.  286.  422. 
— ,   Sir  Wm.  264.  422. 
Hewitt  122. 
Hill,  Bowland  881. 
—,  Sir  Bowland  117. 242. 
Hogarth  102. 120. 211.267. 

284.  372.  387. 
Holbein  120. 213.  82L  370. 
Holland .   Lord  231.  339. 
Hone  149. 
Hood  881. 

Hooker,  Richard  154. 
— ,  Sir  Joseph  413. 
— ,  Sir  William  413. 
Hope  229. 
Home,  Bp.  432. 
Homer,  Francis  229. 
Horrocks  231. 
Howard,  John  91. 119. 275. 
Howe,  Adm.  91.  138. 
— ,  Viscount  231. 
Hullah  108. 
Hunt,  Leigh  97.  331.  369. 

372.  378. 
Hunter  94.  207.  231.  267. 
Huskisson  116. 
Hutchinson  99. 
Huxley  342. 

Inchbald  339. 

Ireton  156.  223.  339.  378. 

Irving,  Wash.  102. 

Jackson,  John  90. 
James  1.  156.  213.  241. 
376.  406. 

—  II.  323. 

—  IV.  of  Scotiand  130. 
James,  Sir  Wm.  396. 
Jeflfreys  111.  132. 215. 387. 
Jenner  326. 

Jersey,  Lady  270. 
John,  King  423.  482. 
John,  King  (of  France) 

182.  160.  220. 
Johnson,  Samuel  89.  94. 

99.  100.  104.  148.  154. 

157.  235.  376. 
Johnstone  230. 
Jones,  Inigo  85. 126.  159. 

207.  211.  212.  213.  249. 

271.  432.  433. 
— ,  Sir  Wm.  91.  93. 
Jonson,  Ben  107. 128. 156. 

164.  230.  236.  248. 
Joule  280. 
Jowett  387. 
Junius  369.  387. 
Juxon  880. 


Katherine  of  Valois  239. 

243. 
-  Parr  868. 
Kean  161.  264.  412. 
Keats,  John  118. 871. 377. 

416. 

-,  Sir  B.  894. 
Keble  282. 
Kelvin,  Lord  230. 
Kemble  246.  381. 
Kempenfelt  247. 
Kenrick  155. 
Kingsley  232.  869. 
Kneller210.211.233.386. 
Knight,  Charles  424. 
Kynaston  211. 

Lamb,  Chas.  97.  99.  119. 

154.  211.  278.  416. 
— ,  Mary  211.  278.  416. 
Lambert  339. 
Landor  888. 

Landseer,  Sir  E.  93.  338. 
Langham,  Abp.  287. 
Lansdowne,  Lord  231. 
Laud   120.  132.  139.  152. 

voQ    gga 
Lawrence'  Lord  232.  233. 

261. 
— ,  Sir  Thos.  93. 
Layard  306.  808. 
Leech  108.  831. 
Leighton,  Lord  88. 93. 272. 

839.350. 
Lely  211. 
Leopold  of  Belgium  262. 

Lewis,  Sir  G.  C.  229. 
— ,  Monk  266. 
Liddon  90.  93. 
Lincoln,  Abraham  381. 
Lind,  Jenny  234. 
LitUeton  156. 
Liverpool,  Lord  404. 
Livingstone  233. 
Lloyd  116.  225. 
Locke,  John  248.  370. 

,  Joseph  230. 
Lockhart  290. 
Longfellow  236. 
Louis  Philipne  388. 
Lovat  132.  135.  223. 
Lovelace  103.  148.  380. 
Lowell  247. 
LyeU  230. 
Lyndhurst  838.  373. 

Macaulay,  Lord  234. 266. 

389. 
Macaulay,   Zachary  2SL 

382. 
Macdonald,  Sir  John  98. 
Mackintosh  231.  371. 


438 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST 


Maclise  368. 
MacPherson  235. 
Maine,  Sir  H.  97.  229. 
Kakonocliie  99. 
Malcolm  228. 
Manning  250.  420. 
Mangel  88. 
Manf  field,  Lord  152. 155. 

228.  372. 
Marlborough .    Duke    of 

132.  262.  292.  887. 
Marryat  416. 
MarveU  211.  271. 
Mary  1. 100. 137.  241.  321 

392 
-  U.  240.  829.  339. 
— ,  Queen  of  Scots  115.240. 
Mason  235. 
Massinger  376. 
Mathews,  Chas.  331. 
MatUda,  Queen  289. 
Maurice,  F.  D.  152.  282. 

377. 
May.  Sir  T.  Erskine  225. 
Mead  230. 
Melbourne  89. 
Mendelssohn  119. 
Middlesex,  Earl  of  237. 
Middleton  92.  97. 
Mildmay  102. 
Mill,  James  119. 
— ,  John  Stuart  119.  127. 
MiUais,  Sir  John  93. 
MUman  89.  93. 
Milne  93. 
Milton,  John  96.  102. 105. 

107.  111.  130.  148.  207. 

212.  213.  225.  235.  266. 

274.  328.  324.  387.  420. 

422. 
Monk  237.  240. 
Monmouth,  Duke  of  103. 

132. 
Montagu,    Lady   Mary 

Wortley  268. 
Montpensier,  Due  de  241 
Moore,  Sir  John  91. 
Moore,  Thos.  155.  338. 

339.  369. 
More,  Sir  Thos.  107. 117. 

182.  152.  223.  369.  370. 
Morley  272. 
Morris  415. 
Mozart  271.  340. 
Mulready  331. 
Murchison  268. 
Murray,  John  266. 
Myddelton  106. 

Kapler,  Adm.  89. 
-,  Sir   Chas.   89.  163. 
~,  Cten.  Wm.  89. 
-,  Lord  94.  261. 


Napoleon  lU.  338. 
Nelson,  Lord  91.  93. 106. 

115.  162.  270.  393. 
Kewbery  94. 
Newcastle,  Dukes  of  207. 

228. 
Newland,  Abraham  376. 
Newman,  Card.  366. 
Newton,  Sir  Isaac  139. 

148.  230.  264.  266.  267. 

339.  370. 
Newton,  John  121. 
North,  Lord  102.  215. 
Northumberland,  Dukes 

of  132.  168. 

Gates,  Titus  98. 
Oldcastte  223.  433. 
Oldfield,  Mrs.  232. 
Opie  93. 
Otway  138. 
Outram  126.  232.  233. 
Overbury  132. 
Owen,  John  104.  331. 
— ,  Richard  342. 

Palmers  ton  216.  228.  420. 
Paltock,  Robert  149. 
PaoU  233. 
Parker,  Abp.  330. 
Parkes,  Sir  Henry  93. 
Partridge  387. 
PatersoD,  Wm.  113. 
Pazton  400. 
Peabody  117.  233. 
Pearson,  Bishop  122. 
Peel ,   Sir  Robt.  95.  216. 

228.  420.  430. 
Pembroke,  Earl  of  238. 
Pendrell  271. 
Penn,  Wm.  98.  138.  139. 

158.  339.  421.  423. 
Pepys  105.  120.  155.  225 

387. 
Perceval ,    Spencer    207. 

230.  420. 

Peter  the  Great  125.  139. 

153.  390. 
Philippa,  Queen  243. 
Phillips  286. 
Philpot  100. 
Picton  89.  93. 
Pitt,  Wm.  108.  152.  228. 

231.  262.  268.  386. 
Pocahontas  433. 
Poe  119. 

Pollock,  Sir  Geo.  233. 
Ponsonby  89. 
Pope  120.  370.  384.  388. 
Prior  97.  285.  248. 
Pureell  122.  230. 
Pym  155. 

Quincey,  Thomas  de  211. 


Eadcliffe,  Mrs.  101.  331. 
Raffles,  Sir  T.S.  230.  285. 

287.  417. 
Raglan,  Lord  248. 
Rahere  101. 
Baikes  126. 

Raleigh    132.   134.   138. 

155.  224.  225. 
Randolph  155. 
Rawlinson  308. 
Reade  94. 
Rennie  93.  122.  131. 160. 

328 
Reynolds  89.  93.  265.  287. 
Richard  I.  132. 

n.  134.  220.  227.  243. 
—  III.  134.  187. 
Richardson,  Sam.  95.  97. 

148.  886. 
Richmond,  Duke  of  241. 
Rodney  89. 
Rogers.  Samuel  100.  263. 

339.  d^. 
— ,  Thorold  159. 
Romilly  152.  272. 
Ross,  Sir  John  331. 
Rossetti,  D.  G.  269.  368. 
— ,  Christina  273. 
Rothschild  131.  317. 
RoubiUac  168. 
Rowe  235.  248. 
Rafus  222. 
Rumbold  417. 
Rupert,  Prince  155.  370. 
Ruskin284.273.879.  400. 
Russell,  Earl  231.  248. 

249.  412.  421. 
— ,  Lord  Wm.  132.  207. 

417.  421. 

Bacheverell  875. 

SackTille  148. 

St.  Evremont  235.  370. 

St.  Vincent,  Lord  89. 138. 

Sale  158. 

Savage  199. 

Schomberg  260. 

Scott,  Sir  G.  G.  215.  226. 

288.  248.  273.  337.  361. 
425.  421. 

— .  Sir  Walter  149.  234. 

260.  388.  412. 
Seeley  127. 
Selden  162.  153.  155. 
Seymour,   Lord  Adm. 

182. 
-,  Jane  237.  426. 
Shadwell,   Thomas  155. 

236.  369. 
Shaftesbury,  First  Earl 

of  162.  870. 
— ,  Seventh  Earl  of  231. 
Shakspeare,  Edm.  876. 


OF  EMINENT  PEBSONS. 


439 


Shftkspeare,  William  94. 

106.  lOT.  117.  118.  128. 

102.  164.  211.  286.  267. 

291.  376.  378,  417.  430. 
Sharp,  Granville  286. 
SbelleT  130.  273.328.870. 
Sheppard,  Jack  98. 
Bherbrooke,  Lord  224. 
Sheridan  166.  210.  285. 

266.  420. 
Shirley  103.  271. 
Shoyel,  Sir  Cloadetley 

283. 
Shrewsbury,  Talbot,  Barl 

of  238. 
SiddonB,  Mrs.  246.  331. 
Sidney,  Algernon  417. 
Simpson,  Sir  James  246. 
Skelton  226.  249. 
Sloane,  Sir  Hans  291.346. 

368.  869. 
Smith,  Jas.  IBS. 
— ,  Capt.  John  98. 
— ,  Sydney  94.  831. 
-,  W.  H.  226. 
Soane  113.  206. 
Somerset,  Protector  85. 

182.  169.  223. 
Somerrille,  Mrs.  370. 
South  236. 

Southampton.Earl  of  132. 
Southev  286.  248. 
Speed  96. 

Spencer,  Herbert  331. 
Spenser,  Edm.  103.  216 

236. 
Spurgeon  378. 
Stafford  132. 
Stanhope,  Barl  233. 
Steele  95.  103.  368.  370. 
Stephen,  Fitziames   169. 
— ,  James  882. 
Stephen,  King  224. 
Stephenson,  George  273, 

— ,  Bibt.  230.  233. 
Sterne  SSO. 
Stewart,  General  89. 
Stillingdeet  97. 
Stofhard  104. 
Stow  119. 
Strafford  132.  223. 
Strathnaim  337. 
Stratford  de  BedeUffe228. 
Street  166.  233. 
Stuart,  Arabella  137. 
Suffolk,  Duke  of  121. 
Sallivan.  Sir  Arthur  89. 

93.  126. 
Surrey,  Earl  of  108. 158, 


Sutton  103. 
Swedenborg  104. 142. 
Swift  368.  370.  412. 
Sydenham,  Dr.  216. 

Tait,  Abp.  286.  880. 
Tallis  392. 

TaU,  Sir  Henrr  261. 
Taylor,  John  211. 
Teignmouth.  Lord  882. 
Telford  141.  246. 
Tennyson  207.  235.  236. 

U6. 
Thackeray  108.  164.  284, 

276.  331.  388.  338. 
Theodore  of  Corsica  271. 
Thirlwall  108.  264. 
Thomson  235.  412. 
Thurloe  162. 
Thurlow  165.  275. 
Thynne,  Lord  John  230. 
Tiemey  231.  886. 
Tietjens,  Mme.  831. 
Tillotson  107.  152. 
Tooke,  Home  248. 
Toplady  248. 
Toynbee  144. 
TroUope  331. 
Turner  91.  93.  211.  369. 

384.  388. 
Turpin,  Dick  147. 
Twain,  Mark  420. 
Tyler,  Wat  100.  396.  432. 
Tyndale  85.  126. 

Udall  249. 
Usher  162. 

Vancouver  388. 
Vandyke,  see  Dyck,  Van, 
Victoria,  Queen  xxil.  87. 

116. 127.  147.  165.  321. 

323.  324.  828.  329.  341. 

425. 
Voltaire  211. 

Wade,  Gen.  232. 
Wales,  Prince  of  133. 263 
Wallace,  Wm.  100.  132. 

223. 
-,  Sir  Richard  275. 
Waller  210.  225.  423. 
Walpole,  Hor.  100.  270. 

368.  370.  388. 
— ,  Eobert  264.  870. 
Walsingham  386. 
Walton,  Izaak  149.  150. 

416. 
Walton,  Bishop  122. 
Walworth  100.  124. 
Warburton  152. 


Warren,  Admiral  228. 
Warren,  Kliaabeth  229. 
Warwick  97.  132.  187. 
Washington  121. 
Waterlow.  Sir  Sidney  878. 
Watson  W. 

Watt,  Jas.  242.  264.  362. 
Watts,  G.  F.  197.  204. 

262.  389. 
-,  Isaac  104.  119.  283. 
Wedgwood  262. 
Wellington,  Duke  of  89 

93.  Iu8.  116.  826.  326. 

386.  430. 
Wesley,  Ghas.  108.  105. 

233.  248.  284. 
— ,  John  96. 103. 106.  233. 
— ,  Susannah  104. 
West,  Ben.  98.  113. 
Westbrook,  Harriet  828. 
Whitefleld  271. 
Whittington,  Sich.   101. 

112.  116.  373. 
Wilberforce,    Wm.  230. 

338.  382.  417. 
Wild,  Jonathan  93. 
William  L  132.  424. 

—  H.  132. 

—  m.    240.    262.    328. 

339.  392.  411. 

—  IV.  122.  329.  388.  446. 

—  of  Wykeham  424. 
Wilson,  Erasmus  127. 
Wiseman,  Card.  260. 
Wither,  Geo.  98.  160. 
Wolcot  211. 

Wolfe  246.  392. 
Wolsey  128.  212. 213. 406. 

406. 
Woodfall  369. 
Woodward  280. 
Wordsworth  107.  282. 
Wotton  215. 
Wren,  Sir  C.  86.  86.  93. 

97.  106.  106.   107.   111. 

113.  119.  120.  122.  123. 
124.  125.  129.  130.  134. 
148.  167.  212.  226.  248. 
262.  264.  266.  266.  328. 
829.  367.  405.  406.  410. 
424.  427.  430. 

Wyatt  132.  223. 
Wycherley  155.  210.  211. 
Wydiffe  86.  379. 

York,  Duke  of  241.  261. 

867.  417. 
Young,  Thomas  247. 

Zinzendorf,  Count  870. 


INDEX. 


Abbey  Wood  132. 
Abney  Park  Cemetery 

119. 
Academy  of  Arta,  Boyal 

266.  50.  74. 

—  of  MnBic,Eoyal  268. 74. 

—  of  Science  264. 
AcMUes'  Statue  326. 
Acton  422. 
Addison  Bead  31. 
Addresses  77. 
Adelaide  Lodge  430. 
Adelphi,  The  161. 

—  Terrace  126.  161. 

—  Theatre  44.  161. 
Admiralty  212.  323. 
Aeolian  Hall  50.  270. 
Agricultural  Hall  49.  273. 

—  Society  74. 
Albany,  The  266. 
Albemarle  Club  75. 
Albert  Embankiaent  379. 

—  Hall  60.  338. 
^  Memorial  337. 

—  Suspension  Bridge  867. 


Aldersgate  Street  96. 

Station  31.  96. 

Aldgate  Pump  121. 

—  Station  31.  121. 
Aldridge^s  64. 
Aldwych  158. 

—  Theatre  44. 
Ale  11. 
Alexandra  House  338. 

—  Military  Hospital  251. 

—  Palace  49.  fiO.  874. 

—  Park  374. 

—  Theatre  47. 
Alhambra  Theatre  48.164. 

267. 
Allan  Wesleyan  Library 

65. 
All  Hallows,  Barking, 

Church  of  139. 
,  Lombard  St.  120. 


All  Souls'  Church  269. 
Almack's  263. 
Alpine  Club  75. 
Alsatia  149. 
Ambresbury  Bank  416. 
American  Banks  69. 
American  Embassy  249. 
67. 

—  Consulate  67.  118. 

—  Newspapers  66. 

—  Beading  Booms  65. 
Amusements  43.  47.  49. 
Anerley  29. 
Angel  Road  416. 
Angling  53. 

Antiquarian  Society  264. 
Apollo  Theatre  45.  165. 
Apothecaries'  Hall  128. 
Approach  Boad  147. 
Apsley  House  336. 
Aquatics  61. 
Archaeological    Institute 

74. 
Archbishop's  Park  379. 
Archery  51.  285. 
Architectural  Museum 

249. 
Argyll  Lodge  339. 
Armourers''  Hall  112. 
Army  Medical  College  251. 

—  and  Navy  Club  262. 
Co-operative  Soci- 
ety's Stores  249.  64. 

Arrival  1. 

Art  Collections ,   Private 

332-337. 
Arthur's  Club  263.  75. 
Artillery  Company,  Hon. 

104. 
Art-Needlework,  School 

of  312. 
Arts,  Society  of  161.  74. 

—  Club  76. 

—  and  Crafts,  Central 
School  of  xxxiii. 


Astronomical  Society  264. 
Athenseum  Club  262.  75. 
Athletics  61. 
Auctions  77.  263. 
Audit  Office  159. 
Austin  Friars  115. 
Authors*  Club  76. 
—  Society  74. 
Automobile  Club  76.  262. 
Aylesbury  421. 


Arundel  Street  158. 
Staining,  Tower  of  Ascension,  Chapel  of  the 
120.  I    331. 

on  the  Wall,  Church' Ascot  54.  431. 

of  105.  lAshford  423. 

Alliance  Club  76.  Asiatic  Society,  Boyal 

All Saints'Church  269.389.     266.  74. 


Bachelors'  Club  75. 
Badminton  Club  264.  75. 
Baker  Street  Bazaar  63. 
Station  29.  31.  34. 

270.  284.  420. 
Baltic    Mercantile     and 

Shipping  Exchange  119. 
Band  of  Hope  Jubilee 

Building  98. 
Bank  of  England  113. 
— ,  National  Prov.  117. 
Bankers  68. 
Bankers'  Clearing  House 

114. 
Banknotes  xi. 
Bank  Station  113.  122. 
Baptist  Chapels  69. 

—  Church  House  274. 
Barbers'  (Barber-Sur- 
geons') HaU  111. 

Barclay's  Brewery  377. 
Barking  Beach  390. 
Barnard's  Heath  419. 

—  Inn  99.  151. 
Bamardo's  Homes  for 

Destitute  Children  145. 
Bam  Elms  386. 
Barnes  887.  423. 
Bamet  418. 
Barons  Court  35. 
Baths  17. 

—  Club  75. 
Battersea  382. 

—  Bridge  367. 

—  Park  383. 

Stotion  383. 

Boad  Stotton  383. 

—  Polytechnic  388. 
Baynard's  Castle  129. 
Bayswater  326. 

—  Stotion  S2. 


INDEX. 


441 


BasMFt  8S. 

BeaeoBjfleld  422. 
Beaufort  Hovse  870. 
Bechitaln  HaU  OO. 
Beekton  390. 
Bedford  College  284. 

—  Square  273. 
Bedlam  881. 
Beefsteak  Club  211. 
Beer  11. 
BelgraTia  806. 
BeUot*«  ObeUflk  898. 
Belvedere  432. 

—  Hoa«e  482. 
Berkeley  Square  270. 
Bermondaey  zxxi.  431. 
Bethlehem  Hospital  SSI. 
Bethnal  Green  118.  119. 

416. 

Museum  145. 

Bible  Society  129. 


Bibliography  zzxy. 
Billiards  52. 
Billingsgate  124  68. 
Birdcage  Walk  828. 
Birkbeek  Bank  99. 

—  InsUtute  150. 
Bishopsgate  Institate  118. 

—  SUtion  81.  414. 

—  Street  118. 
Bishop's  Boad  81. 

—  Wood  372. 
Blackfriars  Bridge  127. 
Stotton  128. 

—  Metrop.   Railw.    Sta- 
tion 82.  128. 

Blackheath  805.  482. 
Blackwall  143.  390. 

—  Tunnel  143.  xxzi. 
Blake  Hall  4U. 
Bloomsbury  272. 

—  Square  272. 
Blue  Coat  School  250. 
Board  of  Bducatlon  216. 

—  of  Trade  315.  216. 
Boarding  Houses  8. 
Boating  51. 
Boat  Races  51. 
Bodega  Co.  11. 
Bolt  Court  148. 
Bond  Street  270.  84. 
Boodle's  Club  268.  76. 
Books  on  London  zxxv. 
Booksellers  56. 
Borough,  the  875.  122. 

—  Councils  xxzi. 

—  Market  68.  876. 
Bostall  Heath  432. 

—  Woods  432. 
Botonic  Gardens  289. 868. 

418. 
Botonical  Society  285. 
Boundary  Street  zxxii. 


Bow  Church  107. 
Creek  880. 

—  StreetPolice  Court  310. 
Boxing  02. 

Brandenburgh  House387. 
Brassey  Museum  836. 
Brent  Beseryoir  420. 
Brentford  888.  422. 
Breweries  877. 

ers'  Hall  111. 
Bridewell  138. 
Bridgewater  House  833. 
Britannia  Theatre  47.119. 
British  Art,  Kational  Gal- 
lery of  m. 

—  Artists,  Society  of  5a 
British  Museum  290: 

•  Anglo-Saxon    Booms 

317. 
Asiatic  Saloon  318. 
Assyrian  Gallery  806. 
Bronze  Boom  814. 
Ceramie  GaUery  819. 
Coins  and  Medals  315. 
Drawing  Exhibition 

819 
Egypt.  Antiquities  806. 
Elgin  Boom  300 
Ethnographical  Collec- 
tion 319. 
Gold   Ornaments    and 

Gems  315. 
Inscriptions'  Boom  292. 
King's  Library  294. 
Library  292.  830. 
Manuscripts  392. 
Mausoleum  Room  904. 
Medisyal  Room  318. 
Kereid  Boom  804. 
Newspaper   Reading 

Room  294.  319. 
Phigaleian  Room  803. 
Prehistoric  Antiquities 

816. 
Print  Room  318.  294. 
Reading  Room  319. 
Refreshment  Room 

809. 
Religious  Collections 

312. 
Sculpture  Gallery  296. 
Semitic    AnUquities 

812. 
Students'  Room  294. 
Terracottas  316. 
Vase  Rooms  813. 
Waddesdon   Bequest 
Boom  317. 
Broad  Sanctuary  249. 
—  Street  Stotion  27. 
Broadwood's  Hall  50. 
Brockley  29. 
BrockweU  Park  400. 


Brompton  Oratory  366. 

—  Stotton  82.  26. 
Brondesbury  420. 
Brook  Street  284. 
Brooks's  Club  263.  75. 
Browning  Settlement  78. 
Broxbourne  416. 
Buckhurst  Hill  414. 
Buckingham  House  328. 

—  Palace  333. 

Bull  A  Bush  Inn  872. 
Bulllngham  House  339. 
Bunhlll  Fields  Cemetery 

104. 
Burdett  Road  145. 
BurUngtonArcade63. 264. 

—  Fine  Arte  Club  75. 

—  House  264. 
Burnham  Beeches  422. 
Bushy  House  411. 

—  Park  888.  410. 


Gabs  18.  1. 
Caen  Wood  872. 
Cafds  16. 

Caledonian  Club  76. 
Camberwell  Green  378. 

—  School  of  Art  A  Crafts 
378. 

Cambridge  Circus  164. 

—  Cottage  413. 

—  House  78. 

—  Music  HaU  48. 

—  Road  145. 
Camden  Road  417. 

—  Town  278. 

Stotton  286. 

Cane  HiU  881. 
Canning  Town  880. 
Cannon  Street  180. 

Stotton  27.  180. 

(Metrop.)  32. 130. 

Canonbury  Tower  278. 
Canterbury  Theatre  48. 
Carlton  Club  263.  76. 

—  House  261. 

Terrace  823. 

Carlyle's  House  868. 
Carpenter's  HaU  106. 
Gastelnau  387. 
Gastlebar  Park  422. 
Catholic  Apostolic 

Churches  272.  69.   290. 
Cattie  Market  63. 143.  274. 
Cavalry  Club  75.  264. 
Cavendish  Booms  50. 

—  Square  269. 
Caxton  Hall  250. 
Cemeteries  331.  119.  373. 

330. 
Central  Criminal  Court 
97. 

—  London  Railway  33. 


442 


INDEX, 


Central  Meat  Market  100. 

68. 
Technical    College 

342. 

—  School   of  Arts   and 
Crafta  xxxiii. 

Chalfont  House  73. 

—  St.  Giles  421. 
Chalk  Farm  286. 

Stotion  25.  286. 

Chancellor    of  the   Ez- 

cheqaer''8  Office  215. 
Chancery,  Conrt  of  151. 

—  Lane  150.  84. 
Channel,  Passage  of  the 

XV. 

Chapel  Boyal  821. 
Chapels,  Baptist  69. 
— ,  Congregationalist  69. 
— ,  Independent  69. 
— ,  Methodist  70. 
— ,  Swedenborgian  70. 
— ,  Unitarian  71. 
Charing  Cross  164. 

Hospital  161. 

Bailwa7Bridgel62. 

Road  164.  271. 

StoUon  27.  86.  162. 

Metrop.  Railway 

Stotion  82.  162. 
Charities  72. 
Charlton  482. 

—  Pier  890. 
Charterhouse  102. 

—  Street  99.  102. 
Chatham  484. 
Cheapside  106. 
Chelsea  866. 

—  Botanic  Garden  868. 

—  Embankment  867. 

—  Hospital  867. 

—  Old  Church  369. 

—  Suspension  Bridge 
366.888. 

Chemical  Society  264. 
Chemists  57. 
Chenies  421. 
Cherringe  164. 
Cherry  Gardens  8S9. 
Chesham  421. 
Cheshire  Cheese  Hostelry 

148. 
Cheshunt  416. 
Chess  62. 

—  river  420. 
Chesterfield  House  270. 
Cheyne  Walk  868. 
Chigwell  414. 
Child's  Bank  166. 
Chinese  Embassy  269. 
Chingford  415. 
Chipping  Bamet  418 

—  Ongar  414. 


Chiselhunt  488. 


Chiswiek  887.  406.  423. 

—  Byot  887. 

—  House  887. 
Chorley  Wood  421. 
Christ  Church  97.  69. 
(Bloomsbury)   272. 

278. 

(Surrey)  881. 

Christie  and  Manson^s 

Auction  Booms  263. 
Christ's  Hospital  97. 
Church  Army  71. 

—  House  249. 

Churches,  List  of  69. 

Cigars  xii.  62. 

Circulating  Libraries  65. 

City,  The  xxix.  85.      • 

City  and  Guilds  of  Lon- 
don Institute  842. 
xxxiii. 

—  Companies  72. 

—  of  London  College 
xxxUi. 

Consumption  Hos- 
pital 147. 
School  127. 

—  Police  112. 

—  Polyteehnie  zxziii. 

—  Prison  378. 

—  Samaritan  Offlee  125. 
Temple  98. 

Oivll  Service  Co-opera- 
tive Soeiety  64. 

Commission  265. 

Supply  Association 

64.  161. 

Clapham  404.  423. 

—  Church  882. 

—  Common  882. 

—  Junction  404. 
Clapton  119.  416. 
Clare  Market  210. 
Clarence  House  822. 
Claybury  381. 
Clearing  House  114. 
Clement's  Inn  157.  151. 
Cleopatra's  Needle  126. 
ClerkenweU  xxix.  104. 

—  Boad  99.  104. 
Clewer  481. 
CUfford^t  Inn  151. 
Clissold  Park  119. 
Clock  Tower  882. 
Clothworkers'  Hall  120. 
Clubs  74.  76. 
Coaches  25. 
Coal  Exchange  125. 
Cobham  Hall  438. 
Coborn  Boad  414. 
Cock  Lane  100. 
Cockneys  107. 
Coffee-houses  16. 


Coleman  Street  112. 
Collections,  etc.  82. 
College  of  Arms  180. 

—  of  Music,  Boyal  840. 74. 

—  of  Physicians,  Boyal 
163.  74: 

—  of  Preceptors  272. 

—  of  Science  342.  74. 

—  of  Surgeons,  Boyal 
207.  74. 

CoUins's  Music  Hall  48. 
Colne,  the  422. 
Colney  Hatch  881. 
Colonial  Institute,  Boyal 
76.  66. 

—  Office  216. 

—  Bepresentativea  68. 
Columbia  Market  64. 
Comedy  Theatre  46. 
Commercial  Docks  142. 

—  Street  144. 
Commissionnaires  ^. 
Commons.  House  of  221. 
Concerto  49. 
Confectioners  17. 
Congregational  Memorial 

Hall  148. 

—  Chapels  69. 
Connaught  Grounds  415. 
Conservative  Club  263.75. 
Constitution  Hill  825. 
Constitutional  Club  164. 

76. 
Consulates  67. 
Consumption  Hospital 

Cookery,  School  of  866. 
Cook's  Tourist  Office  69. 
Cooling  Castie  483. 

—  Marshes  438. 
Coombe  House  404. 

—  A  Maiden  404. 
Co-operative  System  64. 

—  Working  Societies  64. 
Cooper's  mil  423. 
Copped  Hall  416. 
Com  Exchange  120. 
Comhill  119. 
Coronet  Theatre  47. 
Corporation  Art  Gallery 

110. 

—  Free  Library  109. 
County  Council,  London 

xxxi. 

Goup^  Brougham  Com- 
pany 19. 

Court  Tennis  56. 

—  Theatre,  Boyal  45. 
Courto  of  Justice  166. 
Coutte's  Bank  161. 
Covent  Garden   Market 

68.  210. 
Theatre  45.  210. 


INDKX. 


443 


OoreBtrj  Street  267. 

Clruie  Coart  148. 

GraTen  Street  163. 

Oremome  Gardens  867. 

Crieket  53.  290. 

Cricklewood  417. 

Crimean  Monoment  261. 
.  Spriminal  Court  97. 
^/Criterion  Theatre  46. 366. 

Oroekford'8  368. 

Cromwell  House  878. 

~  Boad  842. 

Croquet  63. 

Crosby  Hall  117. 

—  Obelisk  883. 
Crossness  890. 
Crown  Jewels  138. 

—  Theatre  47, 
Croydon  Bace  54. 
Crystal  Palace  400. 49. 60. 
Cumberland  Lodge  431. 
Curtain  Theatre  105. 
Canon  Street  825. 
Custom  House  134.  zii. 
CuUers*  HaU  97. 
CyeUng  58. 

Csar's  Head  189. 

Dalston  119.  415. 

Daly*i  Theatre  46.  267. 

Danish  Church  71. 

Danvers  Hoxlse  370. 

Dartford  482. 

Datehet  428.  430. 

Dayy-Faraday  Labora- 
tory 366. 

Dead  Letter  Office  39. 

Dean's  ITard  (St.  Paurs) 
94. 

(Westminster)  248. 

Delahay  Street  215. 

Dentists  57. 

Deptford  xxxi.  63.  148. 
390. 

—  Park  482. 
Derby,  the  54.  404. 
Deyonshire  Club  268. 

—  House  886. 
Dining  Booms  10. 
Dinner  10. 

—  Parties  77. 
Directories  xxyI. 
Disposition  of  Time  81. 
District  Messenger  Serv. 

Co.  48. 
Diyes'  Flour  Mills  884. 
Dirine  Senrice  69. 
Docks  141. 
Doctors^  Commons  94. 

WUl  Office  159. 

Dogs'  Cemetery  828. 
Donaldson  Museum  840. 
Dorchester  House  836. 

96 


Dor^  Gallery  51. 
Doughty  House  413. 
Doulton's  Pottery  Works 

883. 
Drainage  System  xxxi. 
Drapers*  Garden  116. 

—  Hall  116. 
Drayton  Green  433. 
Drury  Lane  158. 

Theatre  46.  310. 

Duke  of  York's   School 

367. 

Steps  261. 

Theatre  46. 

Dulwich  College  897. 

—  GaUery  897. 

—  Park  400. 

Dutch  Church  116.  71. 

EaUng  433. 

Earl's  Court  49.  31.  85. 
Eastcheap  181. 
East  End  xxix. 

—  India  Co.,  House  of  the 
119. 

—  Docks  148. 

United  Service 

Club  262.  76. 

—  London  College  145. 

—  Sheen  411. 
Edgware  417. 
-Boad  381. 

SUtion  81.  84. 

Edmonton  416. 
Education  xxziil. 
Committee  127. 

—  Office  315. 

Eel  Pie  Island  888. 
Egham  423. 

Eleanor's  Cross  162.  164. 
Electric  Light  xxxii. 
Elephant  and  Castie  878. 

Theatre  47. 

—  Tavern  130. 
Elstree  418. 
Eltham  433. 
Ely  Chapel  99. 

—  Place  99. 
Embankment    Gardens 

162.  126. 
Embassies  67. 
Empire  Theatre  48.  367. 
Enfield  416. 

—  Lock  416. 
Entertainments  48.  47. 
Epping  414. 

—  Forest  415. 
Epsom  404.  64. 
Erith  390.  432. 

—  Marshes  390. 

—  Beach  890. 
Essex  Street  158. 


Ethical  Societies  71. 
Eton  439. 

Euston  Stot.  36.  86.  278. 
Evans's  211. 
Exchange,  Boyal  116. 
Exeter  HaU  160. 
Exhibition  Galleries  841. 

361. 
Exhibitions  48.  50.  144. 
Expenses  xi. 
Express  Companies  xiv. 

Famham  423. 
Farringdon    Street    128. 

98. 
'-  SUtion  31. 

—  Market  68. 
Feltham  423. 
Fenchurch  Street  130. 

Stot.  28.  131.  414. 

Fetter  Lane  149. 
Finchley  Boad  417.  430. 
Finsbury  xxxi. 

—  Circus  105. 

—  Park  119. 

—  Pavement  106. 

—  Technical  College 
xxxiv. 

Fire,  the  Great  xzvi.  100. 

123. 
Fire  Brigade  xxxli.  878. 
Fishing  68. 
Fish  Markets  68.  128. 
Fishmongers'  HaU  128. 
Flaxman  GaUery  272. 
Fleet  Brook  98.  148.  274. 

—  Prison  148. 

—  Street  148. 
Floral  Hall  210. 
Flower  Market  63.  310. 

—  Shows  154.  389. 
Flys  19. 
FootbaU  68. 

Foreign    Cattie    Market 
68.  143.  390. 

—  Churches  71. 

—  Missions  Club  76. 

—  Office  315.  323. 
Forest  Hill  403. 
Forestry  Museum  216. 
Foundling  Hospital  274. 
Fountain  Court  161. 
Fox-hunting  54. 
Franco-British  Exhibition 

49. 
Free  Hospital,  Boyal 
153. 

—  Libraries  65. 270.  869. 
Freemasons'  HaU  210. 

—  Tavern  210. 
French  Churches  71. 

—  Hospice  147. 


444 


INDEX. 


French  Hospital  73. 

—  Prot.  Church  271.  71. 
Fresh  Wharf  389. 
Friends*  Barial   Ground 

101. 

—  Meeting  Houses  70. 
Frogmore  House  430. 
Fruit  Market  63. 210. 
Fulham  886.  xxxi. 

—  Grand  Theatre  47. 
Famished  Apartments  9. 
Fumival's  Inn  99.  151. 

Gad's  HiU  433. 

Gaiety  Theatre  45.  160. 

GaUion's  Station  144. 

Games  51. 

GarHck  Club  211.  75. 

—  Theatre  45.  164. 
Gas-lighting  xxzii. 
Gates  of  London,   Old 

xxiv. 
General  Hints  76. 

—  Market  100. 
Geographical  Society  266. 
Geological  Museum  268. 

343. 

—  Society  264. 
George  Inn  378. 

—  Lane  414. 
Gherman  Athenaeum  Oluh 

76. 

—  Churches  71. 

—  Gymnastic  Society  51 

—  Hospital  119.  73. 
Gibson  Gallery  265. 
Giltspur  Street  100. 
Gladstone  Park  420. 
Globe  Boad  414. 

—  Theatre  877. 
Gloucester  Road  Station 

32.  35. 

Golder^s  HiU  371. 

Goldsmiths*  HaU  106. 

Golf  53. 

Golfers*  Club  75. 

Goodman*s  Fields  The- 
atre 121. 

Goodwood  Races  54. 

Gore  House  333. 

Gorhambury  House  419. 

Gospel  Oak  415. 

Goswell  Road  104. 

Gough  Square  148. 

Goyemment  Offices  215. 
823. 

Gower  Street  272. 

Station  81.  273 

Grafton  Gallery  51. 

Grand  Theatre  47.  278. 

Grayesend  433. 

Gray*s  Inn  152. 

Boad  100. 152.  276. 


Grays  Thurrock  391. 
GreatPark(Wind8or)43i. 
Great  Queen  Street  210. 

—  Russell  Street  271. 

—  Scotland  Yard  211. 

—  Tower  Street  131. 
Greek  Churches  71. 
Greenford  422. 
Greenhithe  391.  433. 
Green  Park  325. 

Arch  325. 

Greenstead  414. 
Greenwich  391.  xxxi. 

—  Hospital  392. 

—  Observatory  394. 

—  Park  394. 

—  Pier  890. 

—  Tunnel  xxxii.  143. 390. 
Gresham  College  111. 

—  Street  107. 
Grey  Coat  Hospital  250. 
Grill  Rooms  10. 
Grocers*  Hall  112. 
Grosyenor  Club  76. 

—  House  832. 

—  Road  Bri^e  260. 

—  Square  270. 
Grove  Road  145. 
Guards*  Club  262.  76. 
GuildhaU  106. 

—  Library  109.  65. 

—  Museum  110. 

—  School  of  Music  127.74. 
Guilds  72. 
~  Central  Technical 

College  842.  xxxiv. 
Guilford  Street  274. 
Guinness  Trust  117. 
Gunnersbury  405. 
Guy*s  Hospital  377. 
Gymnastics  51. 

Hackney  xxxi.  415. 

—  Common  147. 

—  Congregational     Col- 
lege m 

—  Downs  416. 

—  Marshes  147. 
Hainault  Forest  414. 416. 
Halfway  Reach  390. 
Ham  Common  389. 

—  House  888. 
Hammersmith  887.  31. 

36.  xxxi. 
Hampstead  370.  xxxi. 

—  Heath  371. 

—  Road  271. 
Hampton  406. 

—  Court  389.  406. 

—  Wick  889.  423. 
Hanover  Sauare  268. 
Hansoms  lo. 
Hanwell  422.  381. 


Harefleld  420. 
Harrow  on  the  Hill  I30, 
Hartshorn  Lane  164. 
Hatcham  432. 
Hatfield  418. 
Hatton  Garden  99. 
Haverstock  Hill  417. 
Hayes  422.  . 

Haymarket  261.  ^ 

—  Theatre  45.  261. 
Hendon  417. 
Henley  Regatta  51. 
Heralds*  College  130.  74. 
Heme  Hill  400. 
Herne*s  Oak  430. 
Hertford  417. 

—  House  76.  270. 
Hick*s  Theatre  46.  165. 
Higham  483. 
High  Beach  416. 
Highbury  278. 
Highgate  372. 

—  Archway  373. 

—  Cable  Tramway  22.872. 

—  Cemetery  873. 

—  Gravel  Pit  Wood  378. 

—  Station  873. 
High  Holbom  274. 
Hints,  General  76. 
Hippodrome  48. 164.  267. 
His  Majesty's   Office  of 

Works  328. 

Theatre  261.  46. 

HistoHcal    Sketch    of 

Bngland  xvii. 

of  London  xxiii. 

Hockey  68. 
Hogarth  House  887. 
Holborn  274.  99. 

—  Town  Hall  152. 

—  VaUey  98.  148. 

—  Viaduct  98. 

Station  28.  85.  98. 

Holland  House  839. 

—  Park  33 
HoUoway  273. 

—  College  423. 

—  Gaol  273. 
Holly  Lodge  839.  872. 
Holy  Trinity,  Church  of 

the  121.  382. 
Holy  Well  153. 
Holywell  Street  167. 
Home  Office  216. 

—  Park  430. 
HomoBopathic  Hospital 

276. 
Honor  Oak  Park  39. 
Homiman  Museum  403. 
Hornsey  119.  374. 
Horse  Guards  212.  323. 

Markets  64. 

Racing  54. 


INDEX. 


445 


Hortienltnral  SocietySSl. 
Hospice  for  French  Pro- 

teatants  U7. 
HoapitAlB  n.  78. 
Hotels  1. 

Houndsditch  xxix.  121. 
Hozton  119. 
Hughenden  423. 
Humane  Society,  Boyal 

183.  327. 
Hnminums  Hotel  211. 
Hungerford  Market  182. 
Hunting  64. 
Hurllngbam  Qub  888. 
Hurst  Park  Club  64. 
Hyde  Park  325. 

Corner  326. 

Hygienic  Museum  289. 

Uford  414. 

Imnerial  Institute  341. 

—  Theatre  48.  249. 
Independent  Chapels  69. 
India  Museum  363. 

—  Office  216.  323. 
Indian  CoUege  423. 
Ingress  Abbey  391. 
Inland  BeyenueOf flcel59. 
Inns  of  Chancery  161. 

—  of  Court  161. 
Insane  Asylums  147. 331. 

422. 
Institute  of  Architects  74. 

—  of  Civil  Engineers 
216.  74. 

—  of  Journalists  127. 

—  of  Painters  in  Water- 
Colours  50. 

—  of  Mechanical  Engin 
eers  323.  74. 

IrishLiterary  Society  161 . 
Ironmongers'  Hall  120. 
Isle  of  Dogs  143.  390. 
Isleworth  888. 
Islington  273.  xzxi. 
Isthmian  Club  264.  75. 
Italian  Church  71. 

—  Opera,  Royal  210.  45. 

Jack  Straw's  Castle  372. 
Jewish  Synagogues  70. 
Jewry,  Old  112. 
Jordans  421. 
Journals  66. 

Junior  Athenseum   Club 
264.  76. 

—  Army  and  Kavy  Club 
262.  75. 

Stores  64. 

—  Carlton  Club  262   75. 

—  ConservatiYe  Club  76. 
^  Constitutional  Club 

76. 


Junior  Naval  and  Mili- 
tary Club  264.  76. 

—  United  Service    Club 
267.  75. 

Justice,  Courts  of  166. 

Kempton  Park  Races  54. 
Kennel  Club  75. 
Kennington  Oval  280. 
382.  62. 

—  Park  382. 

—  Theatre  47.  382. 
Kensal  Green  Cem.  331. 
Kensington  xxxi. 

—  College  339. 

—  Gardens  328. 

—  Gore  337. 
High  Street  Stotion  32. 

—  Palace  328. 
Kent  zxviii. 

Kentish  Town  273.  417. 
Kew  388.  412. 

—  Botanic  Gardens  413. 

—  Bridge  Station  406. 
413.  423. 

—  Cottage  413. 

—  Gardens  413. 

—  Green  412. 

—  Observatory  412. 

—  Palace  413. 
Key  Field  419. 
Kilburn  420. 

King  Edward  VII.  Bridge 

Kinp;  Edward's  Building 

Kingsbury  420. 
King's  College  158. 
Hospital  210. 

—  Cro8sStation26.31.278. 

(Metropolitan)  31. 

Kingsland  119. 
Kingston  389.  423. 
King  Street  (Cheapside) 

107. 

(Whitehall)  215. 

Kingsway  158. 

—  Theatre  46.  210. 
King  William  Street  121. 
Kit-Cat  Portraits  386. 
Knightsbridge  337. 

—  Cavalry  Barracks  337. 

Lacrosse  66. 
Ladies'  Clubs  76. 
-.  Hospitals  73. 

—  Mile  327. 
LadyArtist8,Soeiety  of  51. 

—  Couriers  43. 
Lambeth  xxviii. 

—  Bridge  261.  881. 

—  Free  Library  382. 

—  Palace  379. 


Lancaster  Gate  33. 
Langham  Place  269. 
Langley  422. 
Lansdowne  House  336. 
Latimer  421. 

—  Road  31. 
Lauderdale  House  373. 
Law  Courts  166. 

—  Society,  Incorporated 
161. 

Lawn  Bank  371. 

—  Tennis  65. 

Lea,  river  63.  147.  416. 
Leadenhall  Market  83. 
119. 

—  Street  119. 
Leather  Lane  199. 
Leathersellers',  Hall  of 

the  118. 
Leather  Trades  School 

xzxiv. 
Lee  395. 

Leicester  Square  267. 
Leighton  House  339. 
Lesnes  Abbey  432. 
Lewisham  432.  xxxi. 
Leyton  414.  62. 
Leytonstone  414. 
Libraries  66. 
Life  Boat  Institution  164. 

Saving  Society  66. 
Limehonse  142.  390. 

—  Cut  142. 
Lincoln's  Inn  151. 

Fields  207.  274. 

Lindsey  House  370. 
Linneean  Society  264. 
LitUe  Tower  Hill  141. 
Liverpool  Street  Station 

26.  414. 
Liverpool  to  London  xiy. 
Livery  Companies  72. 
Lloyd's  116. 

—  Register  116.  121. 
Lodgings  9. 
Lollards'  Tower  379. 
Lombard  Street  120. 
London  Bridge  122. 
Station  29.  123. 

—  Athletic  Club  51. 

—  Central  Meat  Market 
100.  63. 

—  Coliseum  48. 

—  County  Council  xxxi. 

—  Docks  141. 

—  Fields  416. 

—  Hospital  144. 

—  House  262. 

—  Institution  106.  66. 
Library  66. 

—  Library  66.  262. 

—  Missionary  Society 
105. 


446 


INDEX. 


London  Payilion  48. 

—  School  of  Economics 
210.  74. 

—  Stone  130. 

—  University  841. 

—  WaU  xxiv.  105. 
London,  Routes  to  and  from 

xii,  XT. 
Long  Acre  210. 

—  Reach  390. 

Lord  Mayor's  Show  77. 
Lord's  Cricket  Ground 

290.  52. 
Lords,  House  of  219. 
Lordship  Lane  403. 
Lost  Dogs'  A  Cats*  Home 

383. 

—  Property  Office  (Scot- 
land Yard)  216. 

Lothbury  105. 
Loughton  414. 
Lower  Thames  S  treet  124 
Lowther  Lodge  388. 
Ludgate  Circus  128. 

—  Hill  128. 

Station  28.  128. 

Lunatic  Asylums  147. 381 

422. 
Lyceum  Club  264.      . 

—  Theatre  46.  160. 
Lyon's  Inn  151. 
Lyric  Opera  House  47. 

—  Theatre  46.  165. 

Maida  Vale  25. 
Maidenhead  26. 
Maiden  Lane  211. 
Majesty's    Theatre,   His 

261.  46. 
Mall,  The  322. 
Manchester  Square  270. 
Mansfield  House  73. 
Mansion  House  112. 

Station  32.  130. 

Maple's  Cross  421. 
Maps  of  London  xxxvi. 
Marble  Arch  326.  34. 
Marble  Hill  Park  388. 
Marines'  Memorial  323. 
Markets  63.  100. 
Mark  Lane  120. 

Station  31.  131. 

Marlborough  Club    262. 

76. 

—  Hall  49. 

—  House  262. 

—  Road  420. 
Marshalsea  Gaol  378. 
Martyrs'  Memorial 

Church  104. 
Marylebone  285.  xxxi. 

—  Church,  Old  284. 

—  Park  286. 


Marylebone  Road   269. 
2fii4. 

—  StaUon  26.  284. 

—  Workhouse  284. 
Mayfair  325.  366. 
MeatMarket,  Central  100. 

63. 
Medical    Examination 

Hall  127. 
Medway,  the  434. 
Mercers'  Hall  112. 

—  Schools  99. 
Merchant  Taylors'  Hall 

117. 

School  1(3. 

Mermaid  Tavern  107. 
Meteorological  Office 249. 
Methodist  Chapels  70. 

249. 
M^tropole  Theatre  47. 
Metropolitan  Asylums 

Board  127. 

—  Board  of  Works  xxxi, 

—  Boroughs  xxxi. 

—  Cattle  Market  63. 274. 

—  Fire  Brigade  xxzii. 
378. 

—  Improvements  xxxi. 

—  Meat  Market  63. 

—  Music  Hall  48. 

—  Police  District  xxx. 

—  BaUways  29. 
Mews,  Royal  329. 
Middlesex  xxxviii.  432. 

—  Guildhall  249. 

—  Music  Hall  48. 
Mile  End  Road  144. 
Military  Academy(Wool- 

wich)  396. 

—  Asylum  367. 

—  Hospital  251. 

—  and  Kaval  Clubs  264. 

—  Repository    (Wool- 
wich) 396. 

Millbank  Barracks  251. 

—  Penitentiary  251. 
Mill  Hill  417.  82. 
Millwall  Docks  143.  890. 
Milton  Street  97. 
Mincing  Lane  120. 
Minories  xxix.  121. 
Mint,  Royal  139. 

—  Street  378. 
Missionary  Society's  Mu- 
seum, London  105. 

Mitre  Court  149. 
Mond's  Gallery,  Dr.  337 
Money  xi. 

—  Changers  69. 

—  Orders  41. 
Montague  House  215. 
Monument,  The  123. 

—  SUtion  32.  122. 


Moor  Park  420. 
Moorgate  Street  105. 

Station  31. 

Moravian  Burial  Ground 
370. 

—  Chapel  150. 
Morley  College  882. 
Morning  Post  Office  160. 
Mortlake  887.  428. 
Motoring  55. 
Mudie's  65.  272. 
Murray's  House  266. 
Museum,  Royal    Archi- 
tectural 249. 

— ,  Bethnal  Green  145. 
— ,  Brassey  336. 
— ,  British  290. 
— ,  Forestry  216. 
— ,  Geological  268. 
— ,  Guildhall  110. 
— ,  Homiman  403. 

,  Hygienic  269. 

,  India  363. 
— ,  London  Missionary 

Society  106. 

■.Military  (Woolwich) 

■  of  if usical  Instruments 

340. 
— ,  Natural  History  842. 
-,  Naval  894. 
— ,  Parkes  269. 
— ,  Record  Office  150. 
— ,  Soane  308. 
— ,  South  Kensington 

345. 
— ,  United  Service  214. 
— ,  Victoria  6  Albert  845. 
— ,  Wesleyan  106. 
Music  Hall,  Royal  48. 

—  HaUs  47. 
— ,  Guildhall  School   of 

127. 
— ,  Academy  of  268. 
—,  Royal  College  of  840. 
Muswell  Hill  374. 

National  Club  76. 

—  Cyclists'  Union  58. 

—  Gallery  165. 
of  British  Art  251. 

—  Liberal  Club  164. 126. 
75. 

—  Life  Boat  Institution, 
Royal  164. 

—  Physical  Laboratory 

Ail- 

—  Portrait  Gallery  197. 

—  Provincial  Bank  117. 

—  School  of  Cookery  366. 

—  Sporting  Club  15. 
Natural  History  Museum 

343. 


INDEX. 


447 


Kayal  College  892. 

—  Gallery    (Greenwich) 

—  and  Military  Glnb  361. 
76. 

—  Museum  A  School 
(Greenwich)  894. 

Neasden  420. 
Needlework.   School  of 

812. 
Kel8on*8  Column  162. 
New  Bow   Street  Police 

Court  210. 

—  Bridge  Street  128. 

—  Burlington  House  26A 

—  Club  76. 

—  College  290. 

—  Court  131. 

—  Cross  482. 

—  English  Art  Club  60. 

—  Gallery  60. 
Newgate  Prison  97. 

—  Street  97. 
New  Hampton  406. 
Newington  xxzi. 
New  Inn  161. 

—  Jerusalem  Churches 
70. 

Newlands  Park  421. 
Newman  House  73. 
Newmarket  Races  64. 
New  Oxford  Street  271. 

and  Cambridge 

Club  262.  76. 

—  Palace  Yard  216. 

—  Scoaand  Yard  216. 
Newspapers  66. 

New  Theatre  46. 
Newton  Hall  160. 
New  University  Club  263. 

75. 
New  Zealand  Chambers 

120. 
Norfolk  House  262. 

—  Street  168. 
North  Acton  422.' 
Northampton  Institute 

104.  xxxiii. 

Northampton  Square  104, 

Northbrook  Gallery  837. 

North  Dulwich  400. 

Northfleet  391.  438. 

North  Greenwich  Rail- 
way Station  148. 

Northumberland  House 
163. 

North  Weald  414. 

Norfhwood  420. 

North  Woolwich  144.896. 

Norwegian  Church  72. 

Netting  Hill  31. 

Gate  Station  32. 83. 

Nurses'  House  289. 


Oaks,  the  64.  404. 
Obserratory,  Kew  412. 
-,  Royal  394. 
Office  of  Works  323. 
Old  Bailey  97. 

—  Jewry  112. 

—  Serjeant*s  Inn  160. 

—  Swan  Pier  889. 
Olympia  49.  887. 
Omnibuses  18.  1. 
Opera  Colonnade  63. 
Opera,  Royal  Italian  210. 

46. 
Ophthalmic  Hospital  161. 
Oratory,  Brompton  866. 
Ordnance  Surrey  Map 

xxxvi. 
Oriental  Club  268.  76. 

Collections  861.  863. 
Orleans  Club  76. 

—  House  388. 
Orphan  Asylum  414. 
Oval,  Eennington  62. 

260.  882. 
Oxford  Cireus  269.  84. 

—  House  78. 

—  Music  Hall  48. 

—  Street  269. 

—  and  Cambridge  Club 
262.  76. 

Ojster  Shops  15. 

Faddington  Station  26. 

,  Metropolitan  31. 

Palace  Music  HaU  164. 

—  Theatre  48. 
Pall  Mall  260. 
Panshanger  417. 
Pantheon  270. 
Panyer  Alley  97. 
Parade,  the  823. 
Paragon  Theatre  48. 
Parcels  Companies  ^. 

—  Post  41.  95.  162. 
Park  Crescent  269. 

—  Lane  326. 

—  Royal  422. 

—  Square  269. 

—  Street  378. 
IParkes  Museum  269. 
IParliament,    Houses    of 

217. 
'—  Hill  371. 
I—  Square  216. 
Parliamentary  Boroughs 
I     xxxi. 

Parson's  Green  82. 
iPassage,  Atlantic  xii, 
'Passmore  Bdwards  Hall 

210. 

SetUement  73,  273. 

Passports  xii. 
Patent  Office  161. 


Patent  Office  Library  66. 
161. 

Paternoster  Row  96. 

Pavilion  Theatre  47. 

Peabody  Buildings  117. 

Pedlars'  Market  274. 

Peers,  House  of  219. 

Pembroke  Lodge  412. 

Penge  29. 

Pentonville  Prison  278. 

People's  Palace  145. 

Perivale  422. 

Petersham  888. 

Petty  France  823. 

Philharmonic  Concerts 
49. 

Physical  Laboratory,  Na- 
tional 411. 

Physicians,  Royal  College 
of  163.  74. 

Piccadilly  263. 

-^  Circus  266. 

Picture  Galleriee  (private) 
882-837. 

(public)  166.   197. 

251.  275.  855. 

Piers  88. 

Pinner  420. 

Playhouse  Theatre  46. 

—  Yard  128. 
Plnmstead  432. 

—  Marshes  3iK). 
PlymotUh  to  Londom  xv« 
Policemen  77.  216. 
Polo  55. 

Polytechnics  2cxxiii. 
Polytechnic  Young  Men's 

Christian  Institute  269. 
Ponder's  End  416. 
Pool,  the  123.  140. 
Poor  Law  xxxii. 
Population  xxx.  xxvii. 
Port,  the  140. 
Portland  Place  269. 

—  Market  64. 

—  Road  Station  31.  286. 
Poriman  Square  270. 
Portrait  Gallery,  Na- 
tional 197. 

Positivlst  Service  71. 
Poste  Restante  Office  95. 
Post  Office,  General  39. 
96.  96. 

Directory  77. 

Orders  41.  96. 

Savings  Banks  387. 

Station  97. 

Postal  Districts  40. 

—  Orders  41. 

—  Regulations  40. 
Poultry  112.  106. 

—  and  Provision  Market 
100. 


448 


INDEX. 


Praed  St.  Station  31. 
Preceptors,  Coll.  of  272 
Preliminai^  Ramble  78. 
PreBbvterlan  Chorclies 

70. 
Press  Club  75. 
Prime  Minister's  Office 

215. 
Primrose  Hill  289. 
Prince  Henry's  Boom  149. 
Prinee  of  Wales  Theatre 

46.  267. 
Prince's  Club  387.  75. 
Princess's  Theatre  46. 

271. 
Printing  Honse  Sq.    129. 
Prisons  97.  273. 
Private  Apartments  9. 

—  Hotels  1. 

Privy  Council  Office  215 
Probate  Registry  159. 
Provincial  Bank  117. 
Prudential  Assurance  Co. 

99. 
Prussia  House  261. 
Public  Gardens  49.  50. 

—  Libraries  66. 
Purfleet  390. 
Putney  386.  428. 

—  Bridge  32.  388. 
Pye  Comer  100. 

Quakers,  see  Friends. 
Quadrant,  the  268. 
Queen  Victoria  Jubilee 
Nurses  239 

Memorial  823. 

Street  128.  113. 

Queen's  Club  55.  75. 

—  Hall  49.  269. 

—  House  368. 

—  Park  25. 

—  Road  Station  32.  33. 

—  Theatre  46.  165. 
Queen  Street  107. 

Eaces  51. 
Rackets  55. 
Radlett  418. 
Railways  25. 
— ,  Metropolitan  SO. 
— ,  Tube  83. 
Raleigh  Club  267.  76. 
Ranelagh,  the  367. 

—  Club  886. 
Ratcliff  Highway  142. 
Ravenscourt  Park  32. 
Raynes  Park  29.  404. 
Reading  423. 
Reading  Rooms  65. 
Record  Office,  New  150. 

Museum  150. 

Redcross  HaU  377. 


Reform  Club  262. 
Regattas  51.  52. 
Regent  Circus  269. 
Regent's  Canal  143. 

—  Park  285. 

—  Street  267. 

Polytechnic  xxxiii. 

269. 
Registrar  General's  Office 

159. 
Residential  Hotels  2. 
Restaurants  10. 
Returned  Letter  Office  95. 
Reynolds  Galleries  267. 
Richmond  411.  428. 
Rickmansworth  430. 
Rochester  434. 
Rolls  Yard  150. 
Roman  Bath  158. 

—  Cath.  Cathedral  250. 
Churches  71. 

—  Remains  xxiv. 
Rosherville  391. 

—  Gardens  433. 
Rotherhithe  xxx.  142. 

431.  142. 

—  Tunnel  142. 
Rothschild's  House  826. 
Rotten  Row  327. 
Route*  from  London  to  the 

Continent  xv. 

—  to  England  from  the 
United  SteUet  of  Ame- 
rica and  Canada  xii. 

Rowton  Houses  73. 
Royal  Academy  265.  74. 

—  Almonry  322. 

—  Arcade  63. 

—  Army  Medical  College 
251. 

—  Automobile  Club  262. 
Free  Hospital  152. 

—  Institution  266.  74. 
Mews  324.  429. 

—  Music  Hall  48. 

—  Oak  422.  81. 

—  Russian  Circus  49. 

—  Societies'  Club  75. 

—  Society  264.  74. 

—  Stables  429. 
Royalty  Theatre  46. 
Ruislip  Park  420. 
Runnimede  423. 
Russell  Square  272. 
Rye  House  416. 

Saddlers'  Hall  106. 
St.  Alban's  (City)  ill. 

(Holbom)  99. 

St.  Albans  418. 
St.  Alphage's,  Church- 
yard of  105. 

—  Andrew's  98. 


St.  Andrew's  Undershaft 

119. 
by  the  Wardrobe 

129. 

—  Anne's   (Limehonse) 
143. 

—  (Soho)  271. 
Augustine**  106. 

—  Bartholomew's  the 
Great  101. 

—  the  Less  101. 

—  Bartholomew's  Hos- 
pital 101. 

—  Benet's  124. 

—  Botolph,  Aldgate  121. 
without  Bishops- 
gate  118. 

without  Aldersgatft 

96 

—  Bride's  148. 
Foundation  In- 
stitute 148. 

—  Catherine  Cree's  119. 

—  Clement  Danes  167. 

—  Clement's  122. 

—  Dunstan^s  in  the  Ea»t 
125. 

in  the  West  149. 

(Stepney)  142. 

—  Edmund's  120. 

—  Ethelburga's  118. 
Efheldreda's  99. 

—  George's  Cathedral 
381. 

Cemetery  330. 

Church  268.  878. 

Circus  382. 

Hall  49.  269. 

—  Giles  (Cripplegate)  96. 

—  (Camberwell)  379. 
in  the  Fields  271. 

—  Helen's  117. 
-■  James's  266. 

(Curtain  St.)  105. 

Club  264. 

—  James's  Hall  50. 

—  —  Palace  821. 

Park  322. 

Station  82.  260. 

Square  262. 

Street  263. 

Theatre  46.  263.  ^ 

—  John  the  Evangelist's 
251. 

—  John's  371.  432. 

Church  104. 

Gate  108. 

Lane  103. 

Wood  Road   286. 

—  Joseph's  Retreat  87B. 

—  Jude's  144. 

—  Katharine  Docks  141. 


INDEX. 


449 


8t.  Katharine  Hospital 

289. 
Coleman,  Church 

of  121. 

—  Lawrence  Jewry  107. 

—  Leonard's  118. 

~  Luke's,  Chelsea  369. 
Hospital  381. 

—  Magnus  the   Martyr's 
124. 

"  Margaret's  234. 

Station  411.  417. 

428. 

—  Martin  in  theField8l63. 

—  Mary  (Aldermanbury) 
HI. 

Aldermary  130. 

(Battersea)  383. 

le  Bow  107. 

at  Hill  125. 

(Lambeth)  380. 

le  Strand  169. 

,  Temple  163. 

Undercroft  224. 

the  Virgin  166. 

Woolnoth  121. 

—  Mary*s  Churchyard 
331. 

—  Michael's  119. 

—  Mildred's  180. 

—  ITicholas   Cole  Abbey 
130. 

—  Olave's  120. 

—  Pancras'  273. 
Station  25.  273. 

—  Patrick's  271. 

—  Paul's  Cathedral  85. 
Church  (Covent 

Garden)  211. 

(Knightsbridge)337. 

Churchyard  94. 

School  387. 

Station  28.  128. 

—  Peter's  (Clerkenwell) 
104. 

(ComhUl)  119. 

(Eaton  Square)  3€ 

—  Peter   ad  Vincula, 
Church  of  137. 

—  Peter's  College  248. 

—  Philip  Stepney's  144. 

—  Saviour's  375. 

—  Sepulchre's  98. 

—  Stephen's  113. 

Cloisters  224. 

Club  126.  75. 

Crypt  224. 

—  Swithin's  130. 

—  Thomas's  Hospital 
379. 

—  Vedast's  106. 
Salle  Erard  50. 
Saltero's,  Don  368. 


Salters'  Hall  131. 
Salrage  Corps  zxxii. 
Salvation  Army  71.  130. 
Sandford  Manor  House 

370. 
Sandown  Races  54. 
Sanitory  Institute  74. 
Sardinian  Catholic 

Chapel  209. 
Savage  Club  161.  75. 
Savile  Club  264.  76. 
Savoy  Chapel  160. 

—  BuUdlngs  161. 

—  Court  161 

—  Palace  160. 

—  Theatre  48.  161. 
Scala  Theatre  46. 
School  Board,  London 

xxxiii. 

,  Office  of  127. 

~  of  Art  Needlework  342. 

—  of  Cookery  366. 

—  of  Economics  and 
PoUtical  Science  74. 

—  of  Ethics  74. 
of  Mines  342. 

Science,  College  of  842. 

—  Museum  861. 
Scotiand  Yard  216. 
Seamen's  Hospital  393. 
Season  xi. 
Serjeants'  Inn  151. 
Serpentine  326. 
Severndroog  Castle  396. 
Shadwell  142.  390. 

—  Market  64. 
Shaftesbury  Avenue  165. 

—  House  870. 

—  Memorial  266. 

—  Theatre  47.  165. 
Shakspeare  Theatre  47. 
Shepherd's  Bush  31.  33. 
Sheppey,  Isle  of  140. 
Shoe  Lane  148. 
Shooters'  Hill  396. 
Shops  66. 

Shoreditch  xxix.  118. 
Shrewsbury  House  370. 
Sick  Children's  Hospital 

275. 
Siemens'    Telegraphic 

Works  396. 
Silvertown  390. 
Sion  College  65.  127. 

—  House  388.  405. 
Skating  56.  289. 
Skinners,  Hall  of  the  181 
Sloane  Square  Station 

32 
Slough  422. 
Smithfield  63.  100. 
Snaresbrook  414. 
Snow  Hill  431. 


Soane  Museum  208. 
Societies  73. 
Society,  American  76. 
— ,  Antiquarian  264. 
— ,  Archery  285. 

—  of  Arts  161.  74. 
~,  Astronomical  264. 

—  of  Authors  74. 
,  Botanical  286. 

—  of  British  Artists    60. 
— ,  Chemical  264. 

— ,  Geographical  266. 
— ,  Geological  264. 
— ,  Horticultural  251. 
— ,  Humane  163. 

—  of  Lady  Artists  51. 
— ,  Linneean  264. 

—  of  Literature  74. 

—  of  Painter-Etchers  50. 

—  of  Oil  Painters  60. 

—  of  Painters  in  Water- 
Colours  60.  261. 

—  for  Propagation  of  the 
Gospel  215. 

— ,  Toxopholite  285. 

— ,  Zoological  235. 

Soho  Square  271. 

Somers  Town  273. 

Somerset  House  159.  127. 

Southall  422. 

SotUhampton  to  London 
xiv. 

South  Eastern  A  Chatham 
Railway  27. 

Railway  Bridge  128. 

131. 

South  Kensington  Mu- 
seum 345. 

Station  32.  35. 

South  London  Fine  Art 
Gallery  379. 

Palace  of  Amuse- 
ments 48. 

South  Place  Ethical  Soci- 
ety 71. 

Southwark  xxx.  375. 

—  Bridge  131. 

—  Park  432. 
Spaniards'  Inn  372. 
Spa  Road  432. 
Spencer  House  263. 
Spitalfields  xxix.  118. 

—  Market  63. 
Sporting  Clubs  76. 
Sports  61. 

—  Club  75. 
Stafford  House  333. 
Staines  423. 
Stamford  Bridge  51. 
Standard  Theatre  47. 119. 
Stanmore,  Little  417. 
Stople  Inn  99.  161. 
Stationers'  Hall  96. 


450 


INDEX. 


Statistical  Society  16 1. 
Statne  of  Achilles  826. 

—  of  Prince  Albert  99 
338.426. 

—  of  Sir  Joseph  Bacal- 
gette  126. 

—  of  Lord  Beaconsfleld 
217. 

—  ofDiikeofBedford272 

—  of  Lord  Bentinck  269. 

—  of  Brimel  127. 

—  of  Bnrgoyne  261. 

—  of  Bums  126. 

—  of  Byron  326. 

—  of  Colin  Campbell  261 

—  of  Canning  217. 

—  of  Carlyle  368. 

—  of  Charles  I.  164. 

—  of  Charles  II.  867. 

—  of  Lord  Clyde  261. 

—  of  Cobden  271. 

—  of  Cromwell  217. 

—  of  Dake  of  Cambridge 
212. 

—  of  Duke  of  Cumber- 
land 269. 

—  of  the  Earl  of  Derby 
217. 

—  of  Edward  m.  150. 

—  of  Qaeen  Elisabeth 
115.  149. 

—  of  Fawcett  126.  382. 

—  of  Foriter  127. 

—  of  Fox  272. 

—  of  Franklin  261. 

—  0fSirBartleFrerel26. 

—  of  George  H.  393. 

—  of  George  HI.  108. 
159.  261.  431. 

—  of  George  IV.  163. 

—  of  Gladstone  157,  220. 

—  of  Gordon  163. 

—  of  Granville  220. 

—  of  Havelock  163. 

—  of  Henry  III.  150. 

—  of  Sir  Rowland  HiU 
117. 

—  of  Hnskisson  116. 

—  of  Iddesleieh  220. 

—  of  Sir  H.  Irving  164. 

—  of  James  II.  323. 

—  of  Jenner  328. 

—  of  Lord  Lawrence  261. 

—  of  J.  S.  Mill  127. 

—  of  Sir  J.  Millars  262. 

—  of  Milton  96. 

—  of  Sir  C.  Napier  163. 

—  of  Lord  Napier  261. 

—  of  Nelson  162. 

—  of  Newman  366. 

—  of  Gen.  Ontram  126. 

—  of  Palmerston  216. 

—  of  Peabody  117. 


Statue  of  Sir  B.  Peel  95. 
216. 

—  of  WllUam  Pitt  268. 

—  of  Baffles  287. 

—  of  Bobt.  Baikes  126. 

—  of  Bichard  Coenr  de 
Lion  217. 

—  of  Bussell  220. 

—  of  Shakspeare  267. 

—  of  SirHansSloane368. 

—  of  Stephenson  273. 
— of  LordStrathnalm  337. 

—  of  Sullivan  126. 

—  of  Tyndale  126. 

—  of  Queen  Victoria  127. 
147.  828. 

of  Wellington  116.  325. 
826. 

—  of  Wesley  105. 

—  of  William  HI.  262. 
of  William  IV.  122. 

—  of  Duke  of  York  261. 
Steel  Yard  131. 
Steamboats  38. 
Steinway  Hall  50. 
Stepney  142. 
Stock  Exchange  114. 
Stoke  Newington  119. 

—  Poges  422. 
Stone  Church  391. 
Storey's  Gate  323. 
Strand  157. 

—  Inn  151. 
Stotion  35.  158. 

—  Theatre  45. 
Stratford  (Essex)  414. 
Strawberry  Hill  388.  411. 
Strood  434. 

Sub-tropical  Garden  383. 
Subways  113. 139. 142. 143. 
Sudbrook  House  388. 
Surbiton  389.  405. 
Surgeons,  Boyal  College 

of  207.  74. 
Surrey  xxviii. 
~  Canal  142. 

—  Docks  142.  432. 

—  Side  375. 

—  Street  158. 

—  Theatre  47.  382. 
Surveyors'    Institution 

216. 
Sutherland  House  333. 
Swedenborgian  Chapels 

70. 
Swedish  Church  142.  72. 
Swimming  56. 
Swiss  Church  72. 
--  Cottage  290.  420. 
Sydenham  400. 

Hill  Station  397.  400. 

—  Wells  Park  403. 
Synagogues  70. 


Tabard  Inn  878. 
Tabernacle,  the  378.  69. 
Talbot  Inn  378. 
Tate  Gallery  251. 
Tattersairs  64. 
Tea  Booms  16. 
Technical  Art   School 
xxxiii. 

—  College,  Central  342. 

—  Education  xxxiii. 
—  Board  xxxiii. 

Teddington  389.  410. 428. 
Telegraph  HUl  482. 

—  Office  95.  41. 
Telegraphs  41. 
Telephones  42.  180. 
Temperance  Hotels  1. 
Temple  152.  127. 

—  Bar  155.  416. 
Memorial  156. 

—  Church  153. 

—  Gardens  154. 

—  Station  32. 
Tennis  55. 
Terminus  Hotels  2. 
Terry's  Theatre  47.  IM. 
Thames,  the  xxvii.  383. 

424.  438. 

—  Conservancy  127. 

—  Ditton  405.  889. 

—  Embankment  125. 

—  Tunnel  142. 
Thatehed House  Club  263. 

76. 
Thavies'  Inn  151. 
Theatres  43. 
— ,  Suburban  47. 
Theistic  Church  71. 
Theobalds  Park  416. 
Theydon  Bois  414. 
Thomey  Isle  225. 
Tilbury  391. 

—  Fort  391. 
Time  xii. 

Time,  Disposition  of  81. 
Times  Office  128. 
Tindall's  Burial  Ground 

104. 
TivoU  Theatre  48. 
Tobacco  xii.  62. 
Topography  xxvii. 
Tottenham  Court  Road 

271.  34. 
Tourist  Offices  69. 
Tower  131. 

—  Bridge  140. 

—  Hill  138. 

—  Subway  139. 
Toxopholite  Society  286. 

51. 
Toynbee  Hall  144.  73. 
Trade,  Board  of  215. 
Trafalgar  Square  162. 


INDEX. 


451 


Tramways  20. 
Trayellers'  Club  262.  76. 
Treasury  216.  323. 
Trinity  Church,  Minories 

121. 
(Kingsway)  168. 

—  College  270.  74. 

—  Hospital  146. 

—  HoTise  138. 

—  Wharf  390. 
Turf  Club  76. 
Tumham  Green  81. 
Tnssand's  Waxwork  Ex- 
hibition 48.  284. 

Twickenham  388.406.411. 

423. 
Twyford  Abbey  422. 
Tyburn  284. 
Tybumia  284.  866. 

Underground     Railways 

29. 
Union  Club  163.  76. 
Unitarian  Chapels  71. 
United    Service    Club 

261.  75. 
Institution,  Royal 

215. 
Museum, Royal  214. 

—  Uniyersity  Club  261. 
76. 

University  of  London841. 

—  Boat  Race  61.  386. 

—  CoUege  272. 

School  272. 

Hospital  272. 

—  HaU  272. 

~  Settlements  73.  273. 

—  Sports  51.  290. 
Upper  Thames  Street  123. 
Uxbridge  422. 

—  Road  31. 

Varieties  47. 
Vaudeville  Theat.  47. 161. 
Vauxhall  404. 

—  Bridge  260. 

—  Gardens  382. 

—  Park  382. 
Vegetable  Market  63. 100. 
Vegetarian  Restaurants 

15. 
Vemey  Junction  421. 
Vcrulamium  418. 
Veterinary  College  273. 
Victoria     and     Albert 

Docks  143. 
Museum  345. 

—  Bridge  383. 

—  Club  75. 

—  Coffee  Music  Hall  48. 
382. 

—  Embankment  135. 


Victoria  Institution  404, 

—  Park  147. 
—  Station  147. 

—  SUtion  27.  366. 
(Metrop.)  82. 

—  Street  249. 

—  SuspensionBridge866. 

—  Tower  Qardens  226. 
Villiers  Street  162. 
Vincent  Square  261. 
Vintners'  Hall  124. 
Virginia  Water  431. 
Visits  76. 

Waldorf  Theatre  47. 153. 
Walham  Green  32. 
Wallace  Collection  275. 
Walpole  House  370 
Waltham  Abbey  415. 

Gross  416. 
Walthamstow  415. 
Wandsworth  386.  423. 
Wanstead  Flats  414. 

—  Park  414. 
Wapping  142. 
War  Office  212.  262. 
Warda  XXX. 
Ware  417. 

Warren  Street  Station  36. 
Warwick  Lane  97. 
Watergate  126. 
Waterloo  Barracks  138. 

—  Bridge  160. 

—  Junction  29. 

—  Place  261. 

—  Station  29.  35.  160. 

—  Steps  261. 
Waterlow  Park  878.     " 
Water  Supply  xxxii. 
Watford  418. 
Wellington  Barracks  323. 

138. 

•  Club  76. 
Welsh  Church  124. 

—  Harp  417. 

Reservoir  417.  420. 

Wembley  Park  49. 
Wendover  421. 
Wesley  Museum  105. 
Wesleyan  Chapels  70. 

—  Centenary  Hall  117. 
Wesley's  Chapel  105. 

—  House  106. 
Westboume,  the  326. 

—  Park  422.  31. 
West  Brompton  32. 
Westcombe  ^ark  432. 
West  Drayton  422. 

End  xxlx. 

—  Hampstead  417.  420. 

—  India  Docks  148. 

—  London   Ethical    So- 
ciety 71.  I 


'Westminster  xxxi. 

—  Abbey  225. 

—  Bridge  216. 

Metrop.  Railway 

I    Station  82.  36. 

—  Cathedral  250. 

—  City  Hall  and  Library 
164. 

—  Column  248. 

—  Hall  222. 

—  HospiUl  249. 

—  Ophthalmic  Hospital 

—  Palace,  New  217. 

—  School  248. 

—  Sessions  House  249. 
West  Thurrock  391. 
Whitchurch  417. 
White's  Club  263.  76. 
Whitechapel  144.  121. 

—  Art  Gallery  lU. 

—  Free  Library  A  Mu- 
seum 14i. 

—  High  Street  121. 

—  Road  lU. 
Whitefleld  Gardens  271. 

—  Memorial  Church  271. 
Whitehall  211. 

—  Club  76. 

—  Gardens  216. 
White  Hart   Inn  147. 

878 

—  Lodge  412. 
Whitttngton  Almshouses 

373. 
Wildwoods  372. 
Willesden  Green  420. 
Wiirs  Coffee  House  210. 
Williams's  Library,  Dr. 

65. 
Willis's  Restaurant  263. 
Wilton  Park  421. 
Wimbledon  404.  82. 
Winchester  House  262. 

370.  376. 
Windham  Club  262.  76. 
Windmill  Hill  433. 
Windsor  424. 
Wine  11.  62. 

—  Office  Court  148. 
Women's  University 

Settlement  73. 
I  Woodford  414. 
I  Wood  Lane  31. 
Wood  Street  415. 
Woolwich  395.  XXX.  390. 

432. 

—  Arsenal  395.  432. 

—  Common  396. 

—  Dockyard  482. 

—  Free  Ferry  144. 
Working  Men's  College 

271. 


452 

Wraysbury  403. 
Wyndham's  Theatre  47. 
164. 

Taeht    Olab,   Boyal 
Thames  75. 


INDEX. 

Yacht  Baces  52. 
York  Column  261. 

—  House  383.  126. 

—  *8  MiUtsry  School, 
Duke  of  367. 

—  Street  323. 


Young    Hen''s    Christian 
Association  160.  271. 

Zoological  Gardens  2S5. 
—  Society  285. 


Leipzig.   Printed  by  Breitkopf  £  Hartel, 


EF 


-LD, 


INDEX  OF  STREETS 


AND 


PLANS  OF  LONDON. 


CONTENTS. 

1.  List  of  the  principal  ttreets,  public  buildings, 

etc.,  of  London. 
^2.  General  Plan  of  London,  showing  the  limits  of 
the  special  plans.  * 

3.  Large  Plan  of  London  in  three  sections  (1:21,200). 

4.  Four  Special  Plans  of  the  most  important  quarters 

of  London  (l:10,600j. 

I.  The  West  End  from  Baker  Street  to  8oho  Square.  —  II.  Eol- 
6om,  Fleet  Street^  Skud  Strand.  —  III.  The  (?i7y.  —IV.  The  Weat 
End  from  Hyde  Park  and  BelgrcKia  to  the  Thame*. 

5.  Railway  Plan  of  London  and  its  suburbs. 


•ax 


M 


List  of  tbe  Principal  StrMtt,  Squares,  Pnblio  Buildings,  ete., 

with  Beferenee  to  the  aecompanyithg  Plana, 

The  large  Map  of  London,  on  the  scale  of  1 :  21,200,  is  dlTlded 
into  three  sections ,  of  which  the  uppermost  is  coloured  browny 
the  central  red,  and  the  lowest  gray.  Each  section  contains  72 
numbered  squares.  In  the  accompanying  index  the  capital  let-^ 
ters  B,  B,  O,  following  the  name  of  a  street  or  building,  refer  tc 
the  different  sections,  while  the  numbers  correspond  with  those  od 
the.^quares  in  each  section.  When  the  name  required  is  also  to  be 
found  on  one  of  the  special  plans,  this  is  indicated  by  an  italicised 
Roman  numeral.  Thus,  Adam  Street,  Adelphi,  will  be  fouDd  on 
the  red  section,  square  30 ;  and  also  on  the  second  special  map. 

The  numbering  of  the  squares  is  so  arranged ,  that  squares  in 
different  sections  bearing  the  same  number  adjoin  each  other. 
Thus,  sqaare  16  on  the  brown  section  finds  its  continuation  towards 
the  S.  ill  square  16  on  the  red  section. 

The  squares  will  also  be  useful  for  calculating  distances,  each 
side  of  a  square  being  exactly  half  a  mile,  while  the  diagonals  if 
drawn  would  be  1,244  yards. 

Names,  to  which  Oreaty  Little,  Old,  Nero,  Upper,  Lower,  or 
Saint  are  prefixed,  are  to  be  sought  for  under  these  prefixes. 

The  following  abbreyiations  are  used:  ave,,  avenue;  ch., 
church;  erea.,  crescent;  et.,  court;  ea.,  east;  grdna.,  gardens; gm., 
green;  gro,,  grove;  gt,,  great;  hi.,  hill;  ho.,  house;  la.,  lane; 
nth.,  north;  pk,,  park;  pi.,  place;  rd.,  road;  aq.,  square;  at., 
street;  ata,,  station;  ath.,  south;  ter.,  terrace;  tn.,  town;  wd., 
wood ;  we. ,  west. 

B  B  O  B  B  O 


Abbey grdns.,  St.  John^flwd.  11 
Abbey  road.,  St.  John's  wood  7 
Abbey  street,  Bermondsey  .    .   41 

,  Bethnal  green  road     43 

Abbeyfield  road,  Hewrnatl. 

BotherMthe 49 

Abbott  road,  Bromley  .  .  . 
Abcharch  la.  .Lombard  street 
/// 
Abercorn  pi.,  St.f  ohn^s  wood 
Aberdare  grdns.,  W.  Hamp- 

stead 

Aberdeen  pk. ,  Highbury  gro. 
Abei-deen  pi.,  Maidahill  .  . 
Abingdon  road,  Kensington 
Abingdon  St.  ,Westminster/r 
Abingdon  villas,  Kensington 
Acacia  road,  St.  John's  wood 
Academy,  Boyal,  Burlington 

house,  Piccadilly   .  .  .  / 

Acton  street,  Qray's  Inn  road 

Ada  rd.,  Oamberwell   .  .  . 

Adam  street,  Adelphi  .    //    .  90  43 

Basdekbb'b  London.    15th  Edit. 


11 


32 


43 


22 


Adam  street,  New  Kent  road 

,  Portman  sq.  .   .   .  / 

,  Botherhithe    .... 

Adam's  mews,  Grosvenor  sq. 
/ 
Addington  road,  Bow  .  .  . 
Addington  street,  Lambeth 
Addle  hi., Doctors' comm.  // 
Addle  St.,  Wood  st.,  City  /// 
Adelaide  road,  Hampstead 
Adelaide  street,  Strand  .  // 
Adelina  gro..  Mile  End*.  . 
Adelphi  terrace,  Strand  II 
Adelphi  theatre,  Strand  // 
Admiralty,  Whitehall  .  IV 
Agar  Street,  Strand  . 
Ainger  rd..  Chalk  farm 
Air  street,  Piccadilly  .  .  1 
Albany,  Piccadilly.  .  .  .  / 
Albany  road,  Camberwell  . 
Albany  street,  Begent's  pk. 
Albemarle  St.,  Piccadilly  / 
Albert  bridge,  Battersea.  . 


// 


64 


14 


14 


24 


37 


42 


41 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREBTS, 


B  B  o 


B  B  O 


Albert  embankment  .  .  IV 
Albert  gate,  Rnightabridge 
Albert  Hall,  Kensington  rd. 
Albert  place,  Kensington  . 
Albert  road,  Battersea.  .   . 

,  Kilbnm  park.  .   .  . 

,  Glo'ster  gate  .... 

,  Queen's  road,  Dalston 

Albert  square,  Glapham  rd. 

,  Oommerciaf  rd.  east 

Albert  street,  Cambridge  rd. 

,  Mile  End  New  tn.  .   . 

,  Regent's  park    .  .  . 

,  Pentonrille 

Albert  ter.,  Islington  .  .  . 
Albion  gro.,  Barnsbnry  .  . 
Albion  place,  London  wall  // 

,  Clerkenwell    .... 

Albion  road,  Clapham  .  .  . 

,  Dalston 

,  Hackney 

,  Holloway 

Albion  square,  Dalston.  .  . 
Albion  St.,  Caledonian  road 

—  — ,  Hyde  park 

,  Botherhithe    .... 

Aldenham  st.,  Somers  town 

Aldermanbury /// 

Alderminster     road ,      Ber- 

mondsey 

Aldemey  road,  Globe  road 
Alderney  St.,  Pimlico  .  .  . 
Aldersgate  street,  City  .  /// 
Aldersgate  street  station  .  . 
Aldford  St.,  Park  lane.  .  / 
Aldgate  station  ..../// 
Aldgate  High  street .  .  /// 
Aldred  road,  Walworth  .  . 
Aldridge  road  villas,  West- 

honme  park 

Aldwych II 

—  theatre // 

Alexandersqiiare,Brompton 
Alexander  st.,Westbme.pk. 
Alexandra  rd.,  St.  John's  wd. 
Alexis    street,    Southwark 

park  road 

Alfred  place,  Bedford  sq.  / 

,  Brompton 

Alfred  road,  farrow  rd.  . 
Alfred  street,  Bersmondsey 

,  Bow  road 

,  Colebrook  row  .  .   . 

,   Lower  Wandsworth 

road 

Alhambra  music-hall  .  .  / 
Alice  St.,  Bermondsey  New 

road 

Allcroft  road,  Kentish  town 
Allen  street.  Holloway  road 
,  Kensington  road   .   . 


66 


18 


27 


29 


16 


31 


24 


28 


34 


13 


20 


Allen  street,  Lambeth.  .  . 
Allendale  road,  Camberwell 
Allerton  street,  Hoxton  .  . 
Allhallows  lane  ,  ...  Ill 
Allington    street,    Victoria 

street IV 

All  Saints'  Church,  Margaret 

street  / 

AU    Saints'    road.,    West- 
bourne  park 

AUsop  pi..  Regent's  park  . 
All  Souls'  Church,  Langham 

place / 

Alma  road,  Bermondsey  .   . 

,  Ganonbury 

Alma  St.,  Kentish  town  rd. 

,  New  North  rd.  .   .   . 

Almeide  St.,  Islington  .  .  . 
Almorah  road,  Islington .  . 
Alpha  terrace ,  Chelsea  .  . 
Alsace  St.,  Albany  road  .  . 
Alscot  roM,  Bermondsey  . 
Alverton  st^  Deptford  .  .  . 
Alvey  St.,  Walworth  .  .  . 
Alvington  St.,  Shacklewell 
Alwyne  lane,  Canonbury.  . 
—  road,  Canonbury  .... 
Amberley  rd.,  Paddington . 
Amelia  street,  Walworth  . 
Amershamyale,New  Cross  rd. 
Amhurst  road,  Shacklewell 

,  Hackney  ...... 

Amoy  pi.,  Limehouse  .  .  . 
Ampton  St.,  Gray's  inn  road 
Amwell  street,  Pentonrille 
Anchor  street.  Stepney  .  . 
Anderson  walk,  Lambeth  . 
Andrews  road,  Hackney  .  . 
Angel  court,    Throgmorton 

street /// 

Angel  place,  Boro'  High  st. 
Angel  street,  St.  Martin's-le- 

Grand /// 

Angler's  lane,  Kentish  town 
Angrare  St.,  Queen's  road . 
Ann  St.,  Union  sq.,  Islington 
Annis  road,  Victoria  park 
Anthony  st.,  Commescial  rd. 

east 

Apollo  theatre / 

Appleby  road,  London  fields 
Appleby  street,Kingsland  rd. 
Approach  rd.,  Victoria  pk. 
Apsley  House,  Piccadilly  IV 
Aquinas  at.,  Stamford  at.  . 
Arabella  row,  Pimlico  .  IV 
Arbour  square,  Commercial 

road  east  

Archbishop's  park 

Arch  street,  Tarn  at.,  New 

Kent  rd 


in 


38 
21 

4 
20 

24 


14 
43 

4i 


37 
5S 


4a 


61 


43 
37 


68 


bi 
37 


Ifl 
34 

21 

5P 
29 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


B  B  e 


B  B  e 


Archer  street,  Camden  town 

,  Ot.  WindmiU  st.  .  / 

Archer  street,  dotting  hUl 
Archibald  street,  Bow.  .  . 
Architectaral  Mufenm .  /F 
Areola  St.,  Shacklewell  .  . 
Ardleigh  St.,  De  Bemuroir 

town 

Argyle  square,  Boston  road 

—  street,  King^s  cross.  .  . 
Argyll  place,  Regent  street  1 

—  roaa,  Kensington  .... 

—  street,  Regent  street  .  1 
Arlington  sq.,  New  Korth  rd. 
Arlington  st..  Piccadilly  /F 

,  Sadler^s  wells  .... 

Armada  St.,  Deptford  .  .  . 
Armagh  road,  Old  Ford  .  . 
Army  St  Kary  stores  .  ,  IV 
Arnold  crea.,  Shoreditch  . 
Arnold  road.  Bow  road  .  . 
Artesian  road,  Bajswater  . 
Arthur  mews,  London  street, 

Paddington 

Arthur  road,  Wells  street . 

Arthur  St.,  Camberwell  road 

,  Chelsea 

,  Gray's  inn  road.  .   . 

,  Lower   Wandsworth 

road 

,  New  Oxford  st.  .  .  . 

,  Trevor  square    .  .  . 

Arthur  street  east,  London 
bridge IIJ 

Artillery  la.  A  St.,  Bishops- 
gate  without    ,  ,  .  .  IIJ 

Artillery  row,  Westminster 
IV 

Artillery  St.,   Horselydown 

Arundel  place  ft  square, 
Bamsbury 

Arundel  8t.,StokeNewington 

Arundel  street,  Strand  .  // 

Arundell  St.,  Coventry  st.  . 

Arvon  rd. ,  Highbury    .   .   . 

Ascalon  st.,  Battersea  .   .   . 

Ascham  street,  Kentish  town 

Ash  gro..  Hare  st.,  Hackney 

Ash  street,  Walworth  .  .   . 

Ashbumham  rd.,  Cremome, 
Chelsea 

Ashbury  rd.,  Shaftesbury  pk. 

Ashby  road.  New  Cross  .  . 

,  Islington 

Ashcroft  road,  Orove  road. 

Ashford  street,  Hozton   .  . 

Ashland  pL,  Paddington  st.  / 

Ashley  place  ft  gardens  IV 

Ashmore  place,  Clapham  rd. 

—  road ,  Harrow  rd.  ... 
Ashwell  road,  Roman  road ' 


23 


63 


'20 


[is 


so 


Asworth  avenue 

Aske  street,  Hozton  .  .  . 

Astey's  row,  Essex  road . 

Astley  St.,    Old  Kent  road 

Aston  road,  Notting  hill 

Aston  St.,  Limehouse  fields 

Asylum  road,  Old  Kent  road 

AthensBum  Club,  Pall  mall 
.    IV 

Atterbj  st,  Pimlico  .  .   , 

Aubin  street,  Waterloo  rd. 

Aubrey  road,  Notting  hill  . 

Auckland  road,  Bow    .  .  . 

Auckland  street,  Upper  Ken- 
ningtonlane 

Augusta  street.  Poplar.  .  . 

Augustus  street,  Regent's 
park 

Austinfrlars,  City  .../// 

Austin  road.  Lower  Wands- 
worth road 

Austin  street,  Shoreditch  . 

Austral  st.,  Southwark   .  . 

Autton  st,  Kensington.  .  • 

Arelon  rd..  King's  road .  . 

Avenue,  Pimlico 

Avenue  road.  Bow 

,  Regent's  park  .... 

Avery  row,  Grosvenor  st.  / 

Avondale  sq..  Old  Kent  rd. 

Avonley  rd.,  New  Cross  rd. 

Avonmouth  st. ,  Borough  . 

Aylesburv  st.,  Clerkenwell 

Aylesford  St.,  Pimlico .  .   . 

Ayliff  street ,  Harper  street 

Asenby  sq.,  Lyndhurst  road 

Baches  row,  Hoxton    .  .   . 

Back  Church  lane.  White- 
chapel 

Back  hill,  Hatton  gdn.    .  . 

Back  alley.  Bow 

Bacon  street,  BethniJ  green 

Bagshot  street,  Walworth  . 

Baker  street,  Clerkenwell  . 

,  Portmansq / 

Balaclava  rd..  Blue  Anchor 
road 

Balcombe  st.,  Dorset  sq.    . 

Balderton  st.,  Oxford  st.    / 

Baldwin  street.  City  road. 

Baldwin's  gardens.  Leather 
lane II 

Bale  street.  Stepney .... 

Ballance  road,  Homerton   . 

Ball's  Pond  road,  Islington 

Balms  road,  De  Beau  voir 
town 

Baltic  street,  St  Luke's.  . 

Baltic  exchange  ..../// 

Banbury  rd..  South  Hackney 


26 


58 


2 


24 


48 


i6 
&1 

1 
{ 

,20 

Si 
T 


10 


23 


37 
30 


46 


37 

48 


U 


47 
36 


6i 


4a 


40 


IB 
1& 


4A 


36 


4S 


51 


40 

43 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STRBETS, 


B  B  o 


B  B  e 


Bancroft  road,  Mile  end .  . 
Bank  of  England  .  .  .  /// 
Bankside.  Southwark  /// 
Banner  street,  St.  Lakers  . 
Banqueting  Hall  (Whitehall) 

Baptist  Church  ho.  .  .  .  // 
Barbara  street,  Bamsbury  . 
Barbel  street,  Westminster 

bridge  road 

Barbican,  Aldersgate  st. .  . 
Barchester  street,  Poplar  . 
Barclay  A  Perkins''s  Brewery 
/// 
Barclay  road,  Walham  green 
Barclay  street,  Aldenhamst. 
Barlow  street,  Walworth  . 
Barnard's  Inn,  Holbom  // 
Bamet  groye.  Hart's  lane, 

Bethnal  green 

Bamham  street,  Tooley  st. 
Bamsbury  groye,  Holloway 

—  road,  Islington 

—  square,  Islington  .... 

—  street,  Islington  .... 
Baroness  road.  Hackney  rd. 
Barrett  st.,  Duke  st.  .  .  / 
Barrett's  groye.  Stoke  Vew- 

ington 

Barrow  hill  rd.,  Portland  tn. 
Bartholomew  close    .... 

—  lane.  Bank /// 

—  road,  Kentish  town  road 

—  yillas,  Kentish  town  .  . 
Basil  St.,  Brompton  .... 
Basing  road,  Westboum  pk. 
Basinghall  street  .  .  .  /// 
Bassett  street,  Kentish  town 
Bastwick  st.,  Ooswell  rd.  . 
Bateman  street,  Soho  .  .  / 
Bateman's  row ,  Shoreditch 

Bath  house IV 

Bath  street,  Newgate  st.  /// 

,  Old  St.,  City  road    . 

Bath  terrace.  Union  road  . 

Battersea  bridge 

Battersea  bridge  road  .  .  . 

Battersea  park 

Battersea  park  pier  .... 
Battersea  park  railway  pier, 

Victoria  railway  bridge 
Battersea  pk.  railway  station 
Battersea   railway    station. 

High  street 

Battersea  Polytechnic  .  .  . 

Battersea  rise 

Battle  bridge  la.,  Tooley  st. 

road.  King's  cross  rd. 

Baxendale  St.,  Bamet  groye 
Baxter   road,    Essex   road, 

Islington 


56  56 
38 


29 


sfr 


u 


40 


43 


36 


41 


19 


37 


42 


Bayham  at.,  Camden  town 

Bayley  street / 

Bayswater  hill.  Bayswater 
Bayswater  roaa,  Bayswater 
Bayswater  ter.,  Paddington 
Beak  street,  Begent  street  / 
Bear  gardens.  Bank  side  .  . 
Bear  lane,  Southwark  street 
Bear  street,  Leicester  sq.  // 
Beatrice   road,    Southwark 

park  road 

Beauchamp  st., Leather  la.  II 
Beaufort  gardens,  Brompton 
Beaufort  street,  Chelsea .  . 
Beaufoy  rd.,  Wandsworth . 
Beaumont  rd.,  Kensington 
Beaumont  sq.  Mile  end.  .  . 
Beaumont  St.,  Marylebone  / 

Beckenhall  mans / 

Beckway  street,  East  street, 

Walworth 

Bedford  ayenue / 

Bedford  College / 

Bedford  court  mansions  .  / 
Bedford  grdns.,  Kensington 
Bedford  pi.,  Bussell  sq.  // 
Bedford  row,  Holbom  .  // 
Bedford  sq.,  Bloomsbury  / 
ea.,  Commercial  road 

east 

Bedford  street,  Ampthill  sq. 

,  Commercial  road  east 

,  Corentgdn // 

Bedfordbury,  Coyentgdn.  // 
Beech  street.  Barbican  .  . 
Beerla.,Low.  Thames  st./// 
Belgrayemews  ea.  Chapel  st. 
Belgraye  pi.,  Pimlico  .  IV 
Belgraye  road,  Pimlico  .  . 

,  St.  John's  wd.   .  .  . 

Belgraye  square  .  .  .  .  /F 
Belgraye  street,  Commercial 

road  east  

,  King's  cross 

,  Pimlico IV 

Belham  st.,  Camberwell  pk. 
Belitha  yillas,  Bamsbury  . 
Bell  lane,Wentworth  st.  /// 
Bell  street,  Edgware  rd.  . 
Bell  yard,  Temple  bar  .  // 
Belshaw  st.,  Homerton  .  . 
Belmont  St.,  ChiJk  farm  rd. 
Belsize  ayenue,  Belsize  pk. 
Belsize  crescent,  Belsize  pk. 
Belsize  lane,  Hampstead  . 
Belsize  park,  Hampstead  . 
Belsize  pk.gdns.,  Hampstead 
Belsize  road,  Finchley  road. 
Belsize  square,  Hampstead 
Belyedere  road,  Lambeth  . 
Bemerton St., Caledonian  rd. 


2a 


23 
.    7 

11 
,  7 
,   23 

.  aa 

.  34 

.  '11 


13 


56 

20 
20 


23 

28 

28 
32 

28 


24 


32 
27 
27 
40 
42 
17 
IT 


32 


59 
I 

21 


30 


48 
16 


30 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


B  B 


B  B  e 


BenMU  rd.,  Bmnawiok  iq. 
Ben  Jonson  road.  Stepney 
Benjamin  Bt.,  Oowerossst.  II 

Bennetts  hill, /// 

Bentinck  st.,  Manch.  sq.  .  i 

,  8oho / 

Benwell  road,  Drayton  pk.  , 
Benyon  rd.,  Sonthgate  rd» 
Beresford  it.,  Walworth  .  . 
Berkeley  rd.,  Regent's  pk.  rd. 

Berkeley  square / 

Berkeley  St.,  Plecadilly  /,  17 
Bermondsey  New  road  .  . 
Bermondsey  street  .... 
Bermondsey  wall  ..... 
Bernard  street,  Bossell  sq. 
Bemers  road,  Islington  .  » 
Bemers  street,  Oxford  st.  / 
Berwick  street,  Soho    .  .  J 

,  Pimlico 

Bessborongh  street,  Pimlieo 
Bethlehem  Hospital,  Lam- 

beth  road 

Bethnal     Qreen     Mnsenm, 

Cambridge  road.  ...» 
Bethnal  Green  junction  sta., 

Three  Colt  lane 

Bethnal  Green  road .... 
Bevenden  street ,  Hozton 
Bevis  marks,  St.MaryAxe/// 

Bible  Society // 

Bidborongh  St.,  Barton  cres. 
Billingsgate  Market .  .  /// 
Billiter   street,    Fenchorch 

street /// 

Bina  road.  Old  Brompton  . 
Binfleld  road,  Clapham  road 
Bingcroft  St.,  Holloway  .  . 
Bingfleld  st.,  Caledonian  rd. 
Birchin  lane,  ComhiU  /// 
Birchington  road,  Kilbum 
Bird  street,  Oxford  street  / 

,  West  sq.,  Lambeth  » 

Birdcage  walk,  St.  James's 

park IV 

Bird-in-bosh  roadjKewPeck- 

ham 

Birkbeek  Institution  .  .  // 
Birkenhall  mansions.  .  .  / 
Bishop's  road,  Bayswater  . 

,  Hackney 

,  North  Brixton    .  .  . 

,  Victoria  pk 

Bishopsgate  st.  rail,  station 

within /// 

without /// 

Bittern  street.  Borough  .  . 
BlackfHars  bridge  .  .  .  // 
Blackfriars  pier,  Blackfriars 

bridge // 

Blackfriars  railway  bdg.  // 


IB 


35 


m 


2S 


48 


&1 


33 


47 


36 


Blackfriars  railway  sta.  II 
Blackfiriars  road  .  ,  ,  ,  II 
Blaekheath  avenue   .... 

Blackheath  hiU 

Blaekheath  road 

Blackheath  railway  station, 

Blackheath  hill 

BlackwaU 

Blackwall  railway  station  . 

Blackwall  tunnel 

Blake's  road,  Peckham  grove 
Blakesley  street.  Commercial 

road  east  

Blandford St.,  Regent's  pk.  / 
Blantyre  street,  Chelsea  .  . 
Blenheim  road,  St.  John's 

wood 

Blenheim  st.  Cale  st.  Chelsea 

,  New  Bond  st.  .  .  .  / 

Blenheim    ter.,  St.   John's 

wood 

Blomfleld  place,  Harrow  rd. 
Blomfield  road,  Maida  vale  . 
Blomfleld  street,  Dalston   . 

,  Harrow  road  .... 

,  London  wall  .  .  /// 

Bloomfield  terrace,  Pimlico 
Bloomsbury  market .  .  . 

—  place // 

—  square // 

—  street // 

Blount  str.,  Limehouse  fields 
Blue  Anchor  la., Bermondsey 
Bluecross  St.,  Leicester  sq.  / 
Blundell  street,  Caledonian 

road 

Blythe  street,  Bethnal  green 

road 

Boleyn  road,  Kingsland  .  . 
Bolingbroke   road.    Church 

street,  Battersea 

Bolney  St.,  South  Lambeth 

Bolsover  street / 

Bolton  road,  Hotting  hiU  . 

,  St.  John's  wood  .  .  . 

Bolton  street,  Kennington  . 

,  Piccadilly.  ,..17 

Boltons  (The),  W.  Brompton 
Bond  street,  Pentonville     . 

,  New / 

,  Old / 

,  Vauxhall 

Bonner  road,  Victoria  pk.  . 
Bonning  sq.,  Kensington.  . 
Bonny  street.  Camden  town 
Boodle's  dub,  St.  James's 

street .17 

Bookham  street,  Hoxton  . 
Boomfield  road,  Clapham  . 
Booth  street,  Spitalfields  . 
Borough  High  street.  .  .  . 


36 
34 


11 
68 


TO 
70 
70 


4a 


'20 


aa 


n 


46 


8 

s 

44 

32 
32 
32 

27 
50 
45 


17 


30 


24' 
3 


11 
31 


22 


23 
22 


26 
3C 


'n 


m 


^ 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STBBETS, 


B  B  G 


B   B  O 


Borough  statioii 

Borough  road,  Southwark 
Boston  place,  Dorset  square 
Boston  street,  Park  road  .   . 

,  Hackney  rd 

Botanic  gardens,    Begenfs 

park 

Botolph  lane,Lower  Thames 

street /// 

Boundary  la.,  Camberwell  rd. 
Boundary  rd.,  St.  John's  wd. 

—  row,  Blakfriars  road  .  . 

—  street,  Shoreditch   .  .  . 

Bourdon  st I^^y 

Bourerle  St.,  Fleet  st.  // 
Bow  churchyard,  Oheapside 

Bow  common,  Middlesex  . 
Bow  common  lane.  Oanal  rd. 
Bow  junction  railway  sta., 

Fairfield  road 

Bow  lane,  Gheapside   .  /// 

,  Poplar 

Bow  rail,  statu.,  Ayenuerd. 
Bow  road.  Mile  end .... 
Bow  street,  Gorent  garden 
Bowling  grn.  la.,  Clerknwll. 
Bowling  green  street,  Een- 

nington  road 

Boxworth  grove,  Barnsbury 
Boyle  street,  Savile  row  / 
Boyson  road,  Walworth  .  . 
Brabaaon  street.  Poplar  .  . 
Bracklyn  st.,  New  North  rd. 
Bradley  street,  Sth.  Lmbth. 
Brady  St.,  Whitechapel  rd. 
Bramah  road,  Brixton .  .  . 
Bramerton  st.,  Ghelsea    .  . 

Bramham  gardens 

Branch  place,  Hoxton  .  .  . 
Brandforth  rd.,  Lambeth.  . 
Brandon  road,  York  road  . 
Brandon  street,  Walworth 
Brantbridge  st^  Mile  End  rd. 
Bread  street,  Oheapside  /// 

Brecknock  road 

Brewer  street,  Oolden  sq.  I 

,  Pancras  road  .... 

,  Pimlico IV 

Brewery  rd.,  Galedonian  rd. 
Brick  court.  Temple  .  .  . 
Brick  lane,  Spitalflelds  /// 
Brick    street,    Park    lane, 

Piccadilly IV 

Bricklayers'  Arms  station  . 
Bride  street,  Holloway  .  . 
Bridewell  place.  New  Bridge 

street // 

Bridge  road,  Battersea  .  .  . 
Bridge  street.  Mile  end  rd. 
,  Westminster  .  .    IV 


20 


64 


42 


33 


35 


38 


30 


53 
.  25 


30 


41 


11 


Bridgewater  ho.,  St.  James's 
park IV 

Bridgewater  st.  ,Somers  town 

Bridport  pi.,  Hoxton    .  .  . 

Bright  street,  Bromley    .  . 

Brill  street,  Somers  town  . 

Brindley  st.,  Harrow  road  . 

Brisbane  st.,  Oamberwell  . 

Bristol  gardens,  Warwick  rd. 

Britannia  rd.,Walham  green 

Britannia  row,  Islington  .  . 

Britannia  street,  Hoxton    . 

,  Gray's  inn  road.  .  . 

British  Museum    ....// 

British  street.  Bow  road  .  . 

Britten  st.,  Chelsea  .... 

Brixton  road . 

—  street.  Brick  lane    .   .   . 

Broad  court.  Long  acre  .  . 

Broad  Sanctuary,  West- 
minster    IV 

Broad  street,  Bloomsbury  // 

,  Golden  sq.    ..... 

,  Lambeth / 

.  Batdiff 

Broad  st.  raUway  sta.     /// 

Broadley  ter.,  Blandford  sq. 

Broadwall,  Stamford  street 

Broadway,  Deptford .... 

— ,  Ludgate  hill  ....    // 

— ,  Westminster.  .   .  .    IV 

Brockham  street,  Borough 

Broke  road,  Dalston  .... 

Bromehead  st..  Commercial 
road  east 

Bromley  railway  station,  St. 
Leonard's  street 

Bromley  street,  Commercial 
road  east 

Brompton  road 

Brompton  square 

Brondesbury  park,  Kilbum 

Brondesbury  yillas,  Kilbum 

Bronze  st.,  Deptford  .... 

Brook  St.,  Grosrenor  sq.  / 

,  Newington 

,  Batdiff 

Brooke  street,  Holbom  .  // 

Brookfield  rd.,  Victoria  pk. 

Brook's  mews,  Dayies  st.  / 

Brooksby  street,  Islington  . 

Brooksby's  walk,  Homerton 

Brook's  Club,  St.  James's /F 

Broom's  alley,  Fulham  .   .   . 

Broomhouse  lane,  Fulham  . 

Brougham  road,  Dalston  . 

Brougham  st.,  Queen's  rd. 

Brown  st.,  Bryanston  sq.  . 

,  Grosvenor  sq..  .  .7 

Brown's  lane ,  Brick  lane  . 

Brownlow  road,  Dalston    . 


27 


67 
4 

as 


13 

33 


IS 
31 

25 

23 

55 
44 

\ 
Si 


29 


le 


m 


3b 
37 


47  . 


51 
13 


33 


51 


47 


15 
Id 

iB 


20 


SQUABES,  PUBUG  BUILDINGS,  ete. 


B  B   O 


B  B  e 


Browidow  St.,  Dnuy  U.  // 

,  HaggerstOB 

,  High  Holbom  //  .  . 

Brae»  road ,  Bromley  .  .  . 
Brunswiek  gardena.Oampdea 

hiU 

Bmnawiek  Ohapel .  .  .  .  / 
Brunswiek  rd.,  Sa.  Ind.  rd. 
Bmnawiek  aq.,  Camberwell 

,  Foondling  house  .  . 

Brunswiek  street.  Haekney 

,  Haekney  rd 

,  Southwark 

,  Poplar 

Brunswiek  yard,  City  road 
Brushfleld  street,  Bishops- 
gate  without 

Bruton  St.,  New  Bond  st.  1 
Bryan  street,  Oaledonlan  rd. 

Bryanston  square 

Bryanston  St.,  Portman  sq.  I 
Bryner  rd.,  Walworth  .  .  . 
Brynner  rd.,  Battersea.  •  . 
Buekhurstst.,  Bethnal  Oreen 
Buckingham  gate,Pimlico  IV 
Buckingham  palace  .  .  IV 
Buckingham  palace  road  IV 
Buckingham  road,  De  Beau- 

▼oir  town 

Buckingham  St.,  Fitzroy  sq. 

,  Strand // 

Buckland  eres.,  Belsize  pk. 
Buckland  St.,  New  North  rd. 
Bucklersbury,  Gheapside  /// 
Budge  row,  Cannon  st.  /// 
Bulinga  St.,  Pimlico .... 
Bulstrode  st.,  Welbeck  st.  / 
Bunhill  fields,  Oity  road.  . 
BunhiU  row,  Ghiswell  street 
Burcham  street, tBromley  . 
Burdett  road,  Limehouse  . 

railway  station    .  ,  . 

Burleigh  street,  Strand  .  // 
Burlington    arcade,   Picca- 
dilly      / 

—  gardens,  Old  Bond  street/ 

—  road,  Westboume  park  . 
Burman  st.,  London  rd.  . 
Burne  street,  Edgware  road 
Burnett  street,  Lambeth  .  . 
Burr  street,  St.  Katharine's 

docks 

Barrel  St.,  Blackfriars  road 
Burton  crescent,  Marchmont 

street  

Burton  road,  Brixton  road 
Bury  court  A  street,  St.  Mary 

Axe /// 

Bury  street,  Bloomsbury  // 

,  Jermyn  st.    ...   IV 

,  Sydney  st.,  Chelsea  . 


47 


31 


43 


40 


28 


89 


48 


17 


86 


Busaeo  St.,  Pentonville  .  . 
Busby  place,  Kentish  town 
Bush  lane,  Cannon  street  /// 
Bushey  hill ,  Peekham  road 
Buttesland  street,  Hoxton  • 

Buxton  St.,  Deal  st 

Byron  street,  Bromley  .  .  . 
Bywater  street,  Chelsea  .  . 

Oable  street,  Wellclose  sq. 
Cadogan  place,  Sloane  street 
Cadogan  street,  Chelsea  .  . 
—  ter.,  Sloane  street  .  .  . 
Cale  street,  Chelsea  .... 
Caledonia  St.,  King^s  cross 
Caledonian  road,  Holloway 
Callow  street,  Fulham  road 

Camberwell  grore 

Camberwell  New  road  .  .  . 
Camberwell  railway  station. 

Station  road 

Camberwell  road 

Camberwell  square  .... 
Cambridge  dreus  .  .  /,  // 
Cambridge  house  .  .  .  /F 
Cambridge  pi.,  Paddington 
Cambridge  rd.,  Kilburn  pk. 

,  Mile  end 

Cambridge  sq.,  Hyde  park 
Cambridge  st.,  Bdgware  rd. 

,  Islington 

,  Pimlico 

Cambridge  terrace,  Edgware 

road 

,  Begent's  pk 

Camden    grore ,     Peekham 

grove   

Camden  park  road  .... 
Camden  road,  Camden  town 
Camden  sq.,  Camden  town 
Camden  st.,  Bethnal  gm.  rd. 

,  Camden  town  .... 

-,  Islington  green  .  .  . 

Camden  town  railway  sta.. 

Great  College  street .  .  . 
Camelia  St.,  South  Lambeth 
Camera  square,  Chelsea  .  . 
Camilla  road,  Bermondsey 
Oamlot  St.,  Shorediteh.  .  . 
Camomile  st.,  Bishopsgate 
/// 
Campbell  road.  Bow  road  . 
Campden  grore^  Kensington 
Gampden  hill,  Kensington  . 
Campden  hill  rd., Kensington 
Campden  hillsq.,  Kensington 
Gampden  ho.  rd.,  Kensington 
Gampden  street,  Kensington 
Canal  road,  Kingsland  road 

,  Mile  end  road.  .  .  . 

Ganfleldgrdns.,  Finchley  road' 


44 


48 
67 


13 


10 
44 
36 

40 
40 


37 
26 
11 

52 


12 


11 


24 


22 


48 


48 


27 

10 
49 


64 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREBTS, 


B  B  o 


B  B  e 


Canning  pl.^  Kensington  gate 
Gannon  hill,  Pinebley  rd.  . 
Gannonrow,We8tmin0ter  17 

Cannon  gtreet /// 

Cannon  at.  railway  eta.  /// 
Cannon  street  road,  Com- 
mercial road  east  .... 
Oanonbnry  |;roTe,  Islington 
Oanonbory  junction  station, 
Douglas  road  north  .  .  . 

Canonbury  lane 

Canonbury  pk.  —  nth  ft  sth. 

Canonbury  place 

Canonbury  road 

Canonbury  square,  Islington 

Canonbury  street 

Canrobert  street 

Cantelows  rd.,  Camden  so. 
Canterbury  rd.,  Old  Kent  ra. 
Canterbury  terrace,   Kings- 
bury road 

Canton  street.  Poplar  .  .  . 
Capland  street,  Lisson  grove 
Carburton  st.  ,Gt.  Portland  st. 
Garden  St.,  Waterloo  rd.  . 
Cardigan  road,  Bow  .... 
Cardigan  St.,  Kennington  la. 
Carey  lane,  Foster  lane  /// 
Carey  street,  Lincoln's  inn  // 

,  Westminster    .... 

Carlinest.,  Golumbia  market 
Carlisle  place,  Victoria  street 
Carlisle  street,  Lambeth  /F 

.  Portman  market    .   . 

,  Soho 

Carlos  pi.,  Grosvenor  sq.  / 
Carlsbad  st.,  Copenhagen  st. 
Carlton  Club,  Pall  mall  IV 
Carlton  gardens.  Pall  mall 
Carlton  grove.  Low.  Wands- 
worth road 

,  Queen's  road  .... 

Carlton  hill,  St.  John's  wood 
Carlton  house  terrace,  Pall 

mall IT 

Carlton  road,  Kentish  town 

,  Notting  hill 

,  Warden  road,  Kentish 

town 

Carlton  rale,  Kilburn  park 
Carlyle  square,  Chelsea  .  . 
Carmelite  St.,  Temple  .  // 
Carnaby  street.  Golden  sq.  / 
Caroline    place,    Marlboro' 

road,  Chelsea 

,  Mecklenburgh  square 

Caroline  street,  Bedford  sq.  1 

,  ColeshiU  St..  .  .  .  . 

Carronn  rd..  South  Laonbeth 

Carter  lane,  Doctors'  eoms. 

/// 


63 


48 


12 


31 


17 


63 


10 


13 


Garter   street,  Briek   lane, 

Spitalflelds 

,  Walworth  road  .  .  . 

Carteret  st.,  Westminster  IT 
Cartwrightst.,  BoyalMintst. 
Cassland  rd..  South  Hackney 
Casson  st..  Old  Montague  st. 
Castle  la..  High  st..  Battersea 
Castle  road,  Kentish  town  . 
Castle  street,  Gity  road  .  . 

,  Long  acre    .  .  .    // 

east,  Oxford  st.  .  .  / 

Gastlemaine  rd. ,  Gamberwell 
Cathcart  hill.  Junction  road 
Cathcart  rd.,WestBrompton 
Catherine  street,  Gity  road  . 

,  East  India  dock  road 

— ,  Jonathan  st.,  Lambeth 

— ,  Strand // 

Gator  street,  Peckham  road 
Gauston  street,  Yauzhall 

bridge  road 

Cavendish  place.  Cavendish 

square / 

Cavendish  rd.,  St.  John's  wd. 
Cavendish  sq.,  Oxford  st.  / 
Cavendish  st.,NewNorth  road 
Caversham  road,  Kentish  tn. 

road 

Caversham  street,  Chelsea  . 
Gavour  st ,  Kensington   .  . 

Caxton  Hall lY 

Gaxton  street,  Westmnstr.  IT 
Cayton  St.,  Gity  road  .  .  . 
Cecil  court,  Charing  cr.  rd.  // 
Cecil  street ,  Strand  .  .  // 
Celbridgepl.,Westbourne  pk. 
Central  Criminal  Court  .  // 
Central  London  Ophthalmic 

Hospital,  Galthorpe  street 
Central  street,  St.  Luke's  . 
Cephas  St.,  Olobe  rd.  .  .  . 
Chadwell  st.,  Glerkenwell  . 
Chadwick  road,  Peckham  . 
Chadwickst. ,  Westminster/7 
Chalcot  ter..  Regent's  park 
Chalk  Farm  railway  station. 

Regent's  park  road  .  .  . 
GhiJk  Farm  rd. ,  Camden  tn. 
Ghalton  street,  Somers  town 
Chamber  street,  Goodman's 

fields /// 

,  Regent's  pk.  rd.    .  . 

Champion  gro., Denmark  hill 
Champion  hUl,  Gamberwell 

Champion  park 

Chancery  lane // 

Ghandos  st. ,  Cavendish  sq.  / 
Chandos  st.,  Covent  grdn.  II 
Ghandos  street,  Stratford  . 
Change  alley,  Gomhill  /// 


54 


AS 
.  S 
21 
46 

48 


22 


U 
27 
23 


16 

L 

r 

\ 

48 
6 

29 
47 
52 


25 
21 
) 
27 
31 
8 
36 


14 
83 


48 


18 


47 


18 


35 
24 
26 
J 
43 


44 

44 
40 


SQUABBS,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


B  B  e 


B   B  G 


Ohapel  place,  BromptoB  .  . 
Ohapel  row,  szmoath  street 
Chapel  Royal,  St.  Jamee'a  II 

,  Saroy // 

Chapel  St.,  Belcrare  sq.  IV 

,  Ed^n^are  road    .  .  . 

,  Pentonville 

.  Somers  town  .... 

Chapter  street,  Westminster 

Charing  Cross IV 

Charing  CrossHospital,  Agar 

street // 

Charing  Cross  mansions  // 
Charing  Cross  pier,  Victoria 

embankment IV 

Charing  Cross  railway  sta.  IV 
Charing  Cross  road »  »  ,  II 
Charing  Cross  terminus  ft  ho- 
tel   11,1V 

Charity  Commissioners'  Off. 
IV 
Charles  lane,  St.  John's  wd. 
Charles  square,  Hoxton  .  . 
Charles  street,Berkeley  sq.  / 
,  Drury  lane  .  .  .     // 


// 


Hampstead  road. 
,  Hatton  garden    . 

,  Islington 

,  Portland  town    .  .   . 
,  St.  James's  sq.  /,  IV 

Westminster   .  .   IV 


J  Whitechapel 

Charlesworth  st. 


Charlotte  st. ,  Bedford  sq.  /,  // 

,  Caledonian  rd.    .  .   . 

,  Curtain  rd 

,  Fitxroy  sq / 

,  Old  Kent  rd 

Charlton  place,  Islington  .  . 
Charlton  st.,  Fitsroy  sq.  .  / 
Charlwood  si,  PimUco  .  . 
Charrington  st.,Somerstown 

Charterhouse // 

Charterhouse  square  .  .  // 
Charterhouse  street,  City  // 
Chatham  place,   Hackney  . 

Cheapside /// 

Chelsea  barracks 

Chelsea  basin,  Chelsea  .  . 
Chelsea  bridge  road  .... 
Chelsea  embankment  .  .  . 
Chelsea    hospital.   Queen's 

road  east    

Chelsea  pier,  Albert  bdg..  . 
Chelsea  railway  sta.,  Harriet 

street,  Fulham  road  .  .  . 
Ghelsham  road.  Clap  ham  . 
Cheltenham  terrace,  Chelsea 
Chenies  place,  Pancras  road 
Ohenies  St., Tottenham  court 

road / 


24 


33 


28 


25 


39 


28 


5^ 


Chepstow  place,Westboume 

groTe   

Chepstow  villas,  Ledbury  rd. 
Cherry  garden  pier  .... 
Cherry  garden  st. ,  Bermonds- 

ey  wall 

Cherry  tree  ct.,Aldersgate  st. 
Chesham  place,  Belgrave  sq. 
Chesham  street^  Belgrave  sq. 
Cheshire  street,  Bethnal  grn. 
Chester  mews,  Regent's  pk. 
Chester  place36dford  square 

,  Hyde  park  sq.    .  .  . 

,  Regenvs  park.   .  .   . 

Chester  square,  Pimlico  IV 
Chester  St.,  Orosvenorpl.  IV 

,  Kennington  road  •  . 

Chester  terraoe,Baton  square 

,  PimJico 

,  Regent's  pk 

Chesterfield  gardens  .  .  IV 
Chesterfield  Ho., Curzonst.  IV 
Chesterfield  St.,  Argyle 

,  Mayfair .... 

Cheyne  row,  Chelsea.  .  .  . 
Cheyne  walk,  Chelsea  .  .  . 
Chichester  road,  Kilbum  pk. 
Chichester  st.,  Harrow  rd. 

,  Pimlico 

Ghicksand  street,  Spitalfields 
Childers  St.,  Deptford  .  .  . 
Child's  place.  Temple  bar  . 
Chilton  street,  Bethnal  green 
Chilworth  st.,    Eastbourne 

ter 

Chippenham  rd.,  Harrow  rd. 
Chislett  rd..  West  Hampstead 
Chiswell  street,  Finsbury  sq. 
Ghrisp  street.  Poplar  .  .  . 
Christ  Church,  Newgate  /// 

— ,  Wandsworth 

— ,  Waterloo  rd 

— ,  Wobum  sq 

Christchurch  street,  Chelsea 
Christian  street,  GommerciiJ 

road  east    

Christie  road,  Victoria  park 
Christopher  St.,  Finsbury  sq. 
Chryssell  road,  Brixton  road 
Chumleigh  St.,  Gamberwell 

Church  house IV 

Church  pi.,  Paddington  grn. 
Church  road,  Battersea  .   . 

,  Highstreet,  Homerton 

,  Islington 

Church  row,  Bethnal  grn.  rd. 
Church  St.,  Camberwell  grn. 

,  Chelsea 

,  Deptford 

,  Greenwich 

,  Horselydown  .... 


B 
3 
49 

47 
40 

17, 

n 
11 

17 

17 


17 

33 
17 
17 


14 
10 


48 


22 


67 


28 


33 
28 


14 


61 


58 


29 
12 


44 
H5 
43 


U 


39 
10 
63 


41 


10 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B   B  O 


Ohureh  it.,  Itlincton    .  .  . 

,  Kentiacton 

,  LiMon  (roTe   .... 

,  Botherhitbe 

,  Weatminster    .  .  IV 

,  Soho / 

,  SpiUlfleldi 

Ghurchew  »t.,  Horselydown 
Ghurehill  road,  Homerton  . 
Ghnrton  street,  Pimlico  .  . 
Gireufl  pi.,  Flnflbnry  .  .  /// 
Gireofl  rd.,  St.  John^a  wood 
Gireus  street,  Marylebone  rd. 
Gireneester  St.,  Harrow  rd. 
Gity  garden  road,  Gity  road 
Gity  gardens,  Gity  road  .  . 
Gity  liberal  club    .../// 

Gity  road 

GlandoB  st.,  Walworth   .  . 
Glanricarde  gardens,  Bays- 
water  rd 

Glapham  road 

GlaptoB  road,  Glapton  .  .  . 
Glapton  square,  Glapton  .  . 
Glare  market.  Strand  .  .  // 
Glaremontsq.,PentonTille  . 
Glarenee  gdns.,  Begent^s  pk. 
Glarence  place,  Glapton  .  . 
Glarenee  Honse  .  .  .  .  /F 
Glarence  road,  Hackney  .  . 

,  Kentish  town  .... 

Glarence  street,  Botherhithe 

,    St.    Peter's    street, 

Islington 

,  York  road,  Gity  road 

Glarence  ter..  Regent's  park 
Glarendon  gdns.,  Maida  rale 
Glarendon  place,  Hyde  park 

gardens   

Glarendon  sq.,  Somer'stown 
Glarendon  street,  Harrow  rd. 

,  Pimlico 

,  Someretown 

Glarges  street,  Piccadilly  lY 
Glarissa  st.,  Eingsland  rd. 
Glark  st.,  Gommercial  rd.  ea. 
Glayerton  street,  Lupns  st. 
Glay  street,  Marylebone  / 
Glayland's  road.  South  Lam- 
beth  

Glay  ton  st.,  Galedonian  road 

,  Kennington 

Gleaver  street,  Kennington 
Glemenfs  Inn,  Strand  .  // 
Glement's  lane,  Lombard  st. 
Ill 
GlemenVs  rd.,  St.  James's  rd. 
Gleopatra's  Keedle  .  .  ,  II 
Olephane  road,  Islington  . 
Uerkenwell  do.,  Glerken- 
well 


35 


40 


2g 


30 


38 


21 


42 


31 


21 


21 


30 


OlerkenweU  green 

Glerkenwell  road 

Glere  rd.,  Weft  Hampstead 
Gleveland  gdns.,  Bayswater 
Gleveland  rd.,  Islington  .  . 
Glereland  row,  St.  James's 

ir 

Gleveland  square.  Hyde  pk. 

Olevelaad  st.,  Fitzroy  sq.  / 

GleTeland,  Mile  end  road  .  . 

Glifden  road.  Lower  Glapton 

Glifford  St.,  New  Bond  st.  / 

Glifford's  Inn,  Fleet  street  // 

Glift  street,  New  North  road 

Glifton  gardens,  Maida  vale 

Glifton  road,  Asylum  road 

,  Oamden  sq 

,  Maida  rale 

,  New  Gross 

,  St.  John's  wood.  .  . 

ea.,  St.  John's  wd.    . 

Glifton  street,  Glapham  .  . 

,  Finsbury 

Glifton  yillas,  Camden  sq.  . 

Glinger  street,  Hoxton  .   .   . 

Glinton  road.  Mile  End  rd. 

Glipstone  st.,  Fitsroy  sq.  / 

Gliveden  pi.,  Eaton  sq.  .   . 

Gloak  lane,  Queen  street, 
Gheapside /// 

Gloudesley  road,  Islington  . 

Gloudesley  sq.,  Lirerpool rd. 

Gloudesley  st. ,  Gloudesley  sq. 

Gloudesley  ter.,  Islington  . 

Glyde  street.  West  Brompton 

Glydesdale  road,  Notting  hiU 

Goal  yard,  Drury  lane  .   .  . 

Goal  Exchange,  Lower  Tha- 
mes street /// 

Gobham  road,  Stratford  .  . 

Gobom  road.  Bow  road  .  . 

Oobom  street.  Bow  road    . 

Oobourg  road.  Old  Kent  road 

Gobourg  row,  TothiU  fields 
IV 

Goburg  street,  Glerkenwell 

Oochrane  st.,  St.  John's  wd. 

Gock  lane,  Smithfield  .  .  // 

Oock  A  Gastle  lane.  Stoke 
Newington 

Gockspur  St.,  Gharing  cr.  IV 

Goin  St.,  Lambeth    .... 

Golbrook  st. ,  St.  George's  rd. 

Golchester  street,  Pimlico  . 

,  Whiteohapel .  .  /// 

Goldharbour  lane 

Goleheme  rd.,  West  Bromp- 
ton     

Goleman  st.,  BunhiU  row  /// 

Goleman  st.,  Oresham  st.   . 

,  New  North  road    .  . 


53 


2& 


2fj 
43 


36 


43 


33 
7 
24 

23 

3S 


44 


m 
as 


^4 


39 


3 
31 


43 


46 
21 


B« 


4Q 


ae 

31 

37 

47 


23 

r 

40 
6 


40 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


11 


B  B  e 


B   S  O 


GoliAeoxn  music-hall   .  .  // 

College  of  Arms  M  Heralds' 

College,  Queen   Vietoria 

street /// 

College  avenue,  Homerton 
College  hill,  Cannon  str.,  /// 
College  lane,  Homerton  .  . 
College  place.  King's  road, 

Chelsea 

College  road,  HaTerstock  hi. 
College  St.,  Camberwell  gro. 
,  Bamsbury  street,  Is- 
lington  

,  Dowgate  hi.    .  .  /// 

,  Fulham  rd.,  Chelsea 

,  Homerton 

west,  Camden  town  . 

College  Villas  road  .... 
Collier  street,  PentouTille 
OoUingham  pi., Cromwell  rd. 
Collingham  road,Kensington 
CoUingwood  8treet,Birkbeck 
street,  Cambridge  road    . 

,  Blackfriars  road    .  . 

Collinson  st..  South wark  br. 

Colonial  office,  Downing  st. 

IV 

Columbia  market 

Columbia  road,  Hackney  rd. 
Colvestone  cres.,  Kingsland 
Colville  gardens,  Notting  hi. 

Colville  road 

Colville  square,  Netting  hill 
ColyiUe  terrace,  Colyille  sq. 
Oolwyn  St.,  Lambeth  road 

Comedy  theatre / 

Commercial  Docks,  Bother- 

hithe 

Commercial  docks  pier  .  . 
Commercial  road,  Lambeth 

,  Peckham 

,  Pimlico 

east /// 

—  St.,  White-chapel.  .  /// 
Compton  mews,  Canonbury 

road 

Compton  road,  Canonbury 
Compton  St.,  Brunswick  sq. 

,  Goswell  rd 

,  St.  PauFs  road  .  .   . 

—  terr.,  Canonbury  sq.  .  . 
Conder  st.,  Limehouse  fields 
Conduit  street,  Regent  st.  / 
Connaught  pi.,  Edgware  rd. 
Connaughtsq.,  Edgware  rd. 
Connaught  st ,  Edgware  rd. 
ConservativeClub,»t.James*8 

street  

Constitution  hill .  .  .  .  /F 
Oonsumption  Hospital.  .  . 
Cooper's  rd..  Old  Kent  road 


03 


18 


34 


.  26 


00 


46 


Cooper's  row.  Trinity  square 
Copenhagen  street,  Islington 
Copersale  rd.,  Homerton  . 
Copperas  st.,  Deptford  .  . 
Copthall  aT.,  London  Wall 
/// 
Coptic  St.,  Few  Oxford  st.  // 
Cordova  road  ,  Grove  road 
Oorfield  st.,  Bethnal  Green 
Cork  St.,  Burlington  grdns.  / 
Cormon  rd., Camber  wellPark 
Com  Exchange,  Seething  la. 
/// 

CornhiU JIJ 

Cornwall    gardens ,    South 

Kensington 

Cornwall  road,  Lambeth     . 

,  Victoria  park  .... 

,  Westbourne  park. .  . 

Cornwall  street,  Fulham    . 

,  Pimlico 

Cornwall  ter.,  Regent's  pk. 

Coronet  theatre 

Corporation  row,  Clerken- 

well 

Corsica  street,  Highbury  . 
Corunna  street,  Battersea  . 
Cottage  grove,  Mile  end  rd. 
Cottesmore  gardens,  Ken- 
sington    

Courland  gro.,  8th.  Lambeth 
Courtenay  st.  ,Kennington  la. 
Courtfield  road,  Collingham 

road 

Courtnell  street,  Bayswater 
Courts  of  Justice ....// 
Cousin  lane.  Upper  Thames 

street /// 

Coutts's  bank // 

Coven  t  Garden // 

Covent  Garden  market .  // 
Covent  Garden  Theatre  .  // 
Coventry  St.,  Cambridge  rd. 

,  Haymarket  .   .  ,   .  / 

Cowcross  St.,  St.  John  st.  // 

Cowfleld  row 

Cowley  road,  Brixton  road 
Cowper  street.  City  road  . 
Crampton  street,  Kewington 

butts 

Cranboum  street,  Leicester 

square !<,  II 

Cranbrookrd.,  Deptford.  . 
Crane  grove,  HoUoway  .  . 
Cranley  gdns.,  West-Bromp- 

ton 

Cranley  place,  Onslow  sq. 
Cranmer  road,  Brixton  road 
Craven  hill,  Bayswater  .  . 
Craven  hi.  gdns.,  Bayswater 
Craven  place,  Kensington  rd. 


47 


63 


43 
28 


22 


86 


43 
43 


0 
34 


05 


21 
2 


7 
22 


60 


23 


28 
5 


3 
31 


26 
31 
31 
31 
52 
27 


U 


27 


33 


35 

37 

64 

9 
9 
30 


12 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B  B  e 


B  B  e 


Craven  street,  City  rd.    .  . 

,  Strand 17 

Craven  terrace,  Bayswater 
Crawford  0t.,  Baker  at.  .  / 
Crawshay  road,  Brixton  .  . 
Crediton  rd.,  Finehley  rd.  . 
Creed  Lane,  Ludgate  hill  . 
Creek  road,  Deptford  .  .  . 
Cremorne  road,  Chelaea  .  . 
Crewdson  rd..  South  Lam- 
beth  

Oripplegate  buildings,  Lon- 
don wall /// 

Crispin  street,  Spitalfields 
CriteHon  theatre,Piccadilly  / 
Critty  St.,  Charlotte  st.  .  / 
Crogslandfrd., Chalk  farm  rd. 
Cromer  st.,  Gray's  inn  road 
Cromwell  pi.  ,Sth.  Kensington 
Cromwell  road,  Earls  Court 

,  South  Kensington .   . 

Crondall  street,  Hoxton  .  . 
Gropley  st.,  Hoxton  .... 
Cross  street,  Essex  road.  . 

,  Hatton  garden  .  .  // 

Crown  street,  Wyndham  rd. 
Crowndale  rd. , Camden  town 
Crozier  street,  Lambeth  IV 
Crucifix  la.,  Bermondsey  st. 
Crutched  friars,  Mark  la.  /// 
Cubitus  town.  Isle  of  Dogs 

Cubitt  town  pier 

Culfordrd.,  DeBeauvoir  tn. 
Culvert  road,  Battersea  .  . 
Cumberland  gate  .  .  .  .  / 
Cumberland  mkt.,  B«genVs 

park 

Cumberland  place,  Chelsea 
Cumberland  st.,  Pimlico  . 
Camberland  ter.,Regent''spk. 
Camming  street,  Pentonville 
Cunard  street,  Albany  road 
Cunningham  place,  St.  John's 

wood 

Careton  st.,  Pimlico .... 
Currie  street,  Nine  Elms  . 
Cursitorstr.,  Chancery  la.  // 
Curtain  road,  Shoreditch  . 
Curzon  street,  Mayfair  IV 
Custom  ho..  Lower  Thames 

street /// 

Cutler  St.,  Houndsditch  /// 

Cutlers'  Hall // 

Cyprus  St.,  Victoria  park  . 
Cyrus  St.,  Goswell  road .   . 

Dacre  st.,  Westminster  .  IV 

Dagmar  road,  Peckham  rd. 

>a]biac  St.,  Peckham  .   .   . 

«le  road,  Kentish  town  . 

'leham  gardens 


U 


35 


23 


42 


24 


12 


44 


36 


25 


36 


42 


DalstoB  green 

Dalston  JunetioB  railway 
station,  Dalston  lane   .  . 

Dalston  lane.  Hackney    .  . 

,  Kingsland 

Daly's  Theatre / 

Daneville  road,  Camberwell 

Dante  rd.,  Newington  butts 

Danteick  St.,  Borough  road 

Danvers  street,  Chelsea  .  . 

Darby  st.,  Boyal  Mint  st.  . 

Damley  rd.,  Hackney  .  .  . 

Dartmouth  St.,  Westm.   IV 

Dartaell  rd.,  Walworth  .  . 

Darwin  St.,  Old  Kent  rd.  . 

Dash  wood  road.  Few  road 

Date  street,  Walworth    .  . 

Da  vies  st.,   Berkeley  sq.  / 

Dawes  lane,  Fulham    .  .  . 

Dawe's  rd.,  Walham  Green 

Dawson  place,  Bayswater  . 

Deacon  street,  Walworth  rd. 

Deale  st.  Mile  end  New  town 

Dean  st..  Commercial  rd.east 

,  Fetter  lane 

,  Soho  square.  .  .  .  / 

Deanery  street.  Park  lane  . 

Dean's  yard,  Westminster  IV 

De  Beauvoir  crescent  .  .  . 

De  Beauvoir  road 

De  Beauvoir  square .... 

De  Crespigny  park.  Camber- 
well 

Delahay  st. ,  Westminster  IV 

Delamere  cres.,  Harrow  rd. 

Delancey  street,  Camden  tn. 

Delaune  street,  Kennington 
park  road 

Delaware  rd.,  Kilbum  Park 

Delhi  street,  Copenhagen  st. 

Dempsey  street,  Stepney    . 

Denbigh  street,  Belgrave  rd. 

Denman  road.,  Peckham  rd. 

Denman  st.,  Haymarket  / 

-' ,  London  bridge   .  .   . 

Denmark  hill,  Camberwell 

Denmark  hill  railway  stat. 

Denmark    rd.,   Camberwell 

,  Kilburn  park   .... 

Denmark  street,  Coldhar- 
bour  lane 

,  Pentonville 

,  Soho / 

Dennett's  road,  Peckham  . 

Denyer  street,  Marlborough 
road 

Deptford  High  street  .  .  . 

railway  station   .  .  . 

Deptford  station 

Derby  rd.,  De  Beauvoir  tn. 

,  Victoria  pk.  rd..  .  . 


4& 

49 
49 
4& 


64 


11 

1 
33 

46 

36 


40 
33 


10 


la 

it 

23 


4a 
i)i 

'11 

18 
^J5 


37 


28 


34 


50 


5T 
42 


at 

48 


40 
40 
40 


40 


27 


66 

18 
63 
63 
63 


SQUABBS,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


13 


B  B  O 


B   B  O 


Derby  rd.,  King's  crow  .  . 
Derbyshire  st.,  Bethnal  gm. 
DeYM  street,  Bromley.  .  . 
De  Vere  gardens,  Kensington 
Deyerellst.,  Great  Dover  st. 
Devon's  road,  Bromley  .  . 
Devonshire  House .  • .  .  IV 
Devonshire  road.  Hackney 

,  South  Lambeth  .  .  . 

Devonshire  square    .  .  /// 
Devonshire  street,  Bishops- 
gate /// 

,  Cambridge  rd..   Mile 

end 

Devonshire  street,  Islington 

,  Lisson  gro 

,  Portland  place.  .  ,  / 

,  Queen  sq // 

Devonshire  ter.,  Bayswater 
Dibden  pi.,  Bssez  road 
Digby  road,  Homerton  .  . 
Digby  walk.  Globe  road.  . 
Distaff  lane.  Cannon  st.  /// 
Distin  street,  Lambeth  .  . 
Dock  street,  Boyal  Mint  st. 
Dockley  road ,  Bermondsey 
Doctor  street ,  Walworth 
Doctors'  Commons.  .  .  /// 
Dod  street,  Burdett  road  . 
Doddington     grove,     Ken- 

nington 

,   Lower  Wandsworth 

DoUand  st.,  Vauxhall .  .  . 
Donaldson  rd.,  Kilburn  .  . 
Donnington  Park  tA.  ... 
Dorchester  House  .  .  lY 
Dorchester  st. ,  NewNorth  rd. 
Doris  street,  Lambeth  .  .  . 
Dorrington St.,  Leather  la.  // 
Dorset  place,  Glapham  road 
Dorset  rd..  South  Lambeth 
Dorset  square,  Marylebone 
Dorset  street.  Baker  st.  / 

,  Islington 

,  SpiUlllelds  ..... 

,  vaaxhall  bdg.  rd. .  . 

Doughty  mews, Foundling  h. 
Doughty  St.,  Guilford  st.  . 
Douglas  place,  Bayswater  . 
Douglas  road,  Canonburv  . 
Douglas  street,  Deptford    . 

,  Vincent  sq 

Doulton's     pottery    works, 

Lambeth 

Dove  row,  Haggerston.  .  . 
Dover  road.  Blackhead  .  . 
Dover  street,  Piccadilly  IV 
Dowgate  hill,  Walbrook  st. 
/// 
Dowlas  street.  Wells  street 
Downham  road,  Kingsland 


54 


56 


42 


38 


47 


43 


18 


27 


29 


25 


Downing  st.,  Whitehall  IV 
Down's  pk.  rd..  Shackle  well 
Draycott  pi..  Pavilion  road 
Draycott  street,  Cadogan  ter- 
race, Chelsea 

Drayton  gardens.  West 
Brompton  ........ 

Drayton  park,  Holloway.  . 
Driffield  road,  Boman  road 
Drummond  cres.,  Seymour 

street  

Drummond  rd.,  Bermondsey 
Drummond  st.,  Euston  sq. 

Drury  lane // 

Drury  Lane  theatre  .  .  // 
Drysdale  st.,  Kingsland  rd. 
Duchess  St.,  Portland  pi.  / 
Duck  lane,  Victoria  st.  IV 
Duckett  St.,  Stepney  .  .  . 
Ducksfoot  lane.  Upper  Tha- 
mes street /// 

Dudley  pL,  Paddington  gn. 

Dudley  House / 

Dugdale  street,  Camberwell 

new  road  

Duke  of  York's  theatre  .  II 
Duke  street,  Adelphi .  .  // 

,  Aldgate /// 

,  Brushfield  st 

,  Grosvenor  sq..  .    // 

,  Little  Britain  .  .  Ill 

,  London  bridge    .  .  . 

,  Manchester  sq.  .  .  / 

,  New  Oxford  st..     // 

,  St.    James's  square  . 

,  Stamford  st 

,  Union  street  .  ,    IV 

Dunbury  St.,  Islington  .  .  . 
Duncan  road,  London  fields 
Duncan  street,  Islington     . 

,  London  fields  .... 

,  Whitechapel  .... 

Duncannon  street.  Strand  // 
Dundonald  st.,  Pimlieo  .  . 
Dunloe  St.,  Hackney  rd..  . 
Dunn  St.,  Shacklewell  .  . 
Dunston  St.,  Kingsland  road 
Durham  street,  Hackney  rd. 

,  Strand // 

,  Upper  Kenningtonlane 

Durham    ter.,  Westbourne 

park 

Durham  villas,  Kensington 
Durward  st.,  Whitechapel. 
Dyott  St.,  New  Oxford  st.  // 

Bagle  street.  Bed  Lion  st.  // 
Eagle  wharf  road,  Hoxton 
Eardley  cres.,  W.  Brompton 
Earl  road,  Upper  Grange  rd. 
Earl  street ,  London  road  . 


26 


45 


49 


13 
13 
5 

68 


24 
21 


43 
12 
19 


27 
26 
43 
U 
19 
40 
42 
19 
24 
22 
34 
48 


35 


25 


30 


30 


8 
1 
52 


32 


39 


1 

45 


14 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B  s  e 


BEG 


Earl  street,  Lisson  grove 

,  MlUbank 

Earrs  coart,  WestBromptna 
Earl's  court    gardens,   Old 

Brompton 

Earl's  court  station  .... 
Earfs  court  rd.,  Kensington 
Earrs  court  square  .... 
East  lane,  Bermondsey  wall 
East  road,  City  road  .  .  , 
East  street,  Kennington  robd 

,  Manchester  sq.  .  .  / 

,  Bed  Lion  sq. .  .  ,   . 

,  Pimlico 

East  street,  Walwortii  roatl 
East  Ferry  rd.,  Gubitt  tn.  . 
East  India  docks  ..... 
East  India  docks  pier  .  .  . 
East  India  dock  rd.,  Poplr. 
East  Surrey  street,  Peckham 
EastlK)ume  ter.,  Paddingtuo 

Eastcheap /// 

Eastfieldst.,Liinehouse  fields 
Easton  street,  Exmouth  at. 
Eaton  lane,  Buckinghaoi 

Palace  road IV 

Eaton  place,  Pimlico  .  IV 
Eaton  square,  Pimlico  .  /  V 
Eaton  street,  Waterloo  rd. 
Eaton  terrace,  Eaton  sq-  . 
Ebury  square,  Pimlico  .  . 
Ebury  street,  Pimlico  .  IV 
Bcclesbourne  rd.,  KewNorth 

road 

Eccleston  pi.,  Pimlico  .  .  . 
Eccleston  sq.,  Belgrave  t^. 
Eccleston  street,  Pimlico  IV 
Edbrook  rd.,  St.  Peter's  pk. 

Edgware  road 

Edith  grove,    Fulham  roiid 

—  St.,  Great  Cambdg.  st.  . 
Edith  terrace,  W.Bromploti 
Edmund  rd.,  New  Church  rd. 
Edward  St.,  Blackfriars  rond 

,  Deptford  High  st..    , 

,  Hampstead  rd.  .  .   . 

,  Shepherdess  walk  .   . 

Edwardes  sq.,  Kensingtu'ii 
Eel  brook  com.,  Fulham  . 
Egbert  road.  Primrose  bill 
Egerton  ter.  A  cres.,  Bromp- 
ton    , 

Egleton  road,  Bromley  .  . 
Eland  road.  Lavender  hUl 
Elcho  street,  Battersea  .  . 
Eldon  road,  Victoria  roa^ 

—  street,  Finsbury  .  .  Ill 
Eleanor  rd.,  Richmond  road 
Elephant  A  Castle     .... 
Elgin  av..  Maida  vale  .  . 
Elgin  road,  Harrow  road    . 


36 


U 


39 


18 


16 


129 


47 


..■21 
17,17 


SI 


13 


13 


115 
51 


Elgin  ter.,  Maida  rale  .  . 
Elisabeth  street,  Eatuu  aq. 

,  Walworth 

Ellen  St.,  Back  church  laae 
Ellesmere  street,  Poplar.  . 
Ellington  street.  Hollow  ay 
Elliot  road,  Brixton  .... 
Elliott's  row,  St.  George's 
road,  Lambeth  ..... 
Ellis  street,  Sloane  street 
Elm  pi.,  South  Kensin^'tod 

—  street,  Gray's  inn  r[>ad    . 

—  tree  road,  St.  John's  wd. 
Elmore  street,  Islingldo  ,  . 
Elsa  St.,  Limehouse  GeidB. 
Elsted  St.  ,East  st. ,  Wal  w  arih 

Elsworthy  road 

Elton  St.,  Kin gsland.  .  .  . 
ElvastonpL^Sth.  Kensington 
Ely  pi.,  Gharterhoust!  «t.  /V 
Ely  ter.,  Mile  end  rmd  .  . 
Emerald  st.,  Theobalds  rA. 

// 
Emerson  St.,  Banks! de  UJ 
Emery  street.  Battened  .  . 
Emmett  street.  Poplar,  .  , 
Emperor's  gate,  South  Ken- 
sington  

Empire  music-hall  .  .  .  / 
Endell  street,  Long  acre  // 
Endive  st.,  Stepney  .  h  .  . 
Endsleigh  st.,  Tavistock  sq, 
England's  la.,  Haver^tk.  bl. 
Englefield  rd.,  Kingsland  ri^. 
Enham  rd.,  Peckham  .  .  . 
Ennismore  gardens, Prmco's 

gate ,  .  . 

Erasmus  St.,  Pimlico  ,  .  . 
Erlanger  rd.,  Hatcham  .  . 
Ernest  st..  Mile  end  rd.  .  . 
Erskine  road.  Chalk  f^rcn  . 
Esher  street,Upper  Ke  n  u  i  n  g- 

ton  lane ^   .   , 

Essex  road,  Islington  .  .  . 
Essex  street,  Kingsland  foad 

,  Mare  st.,  Hacka^y.  . 

,  Strand // 

Essexvillas.Phillimore  grdnJt. 
Ethelburga  street, Bridge  rd. 
Ethelm  st.,  Waterloo  rnad 
Ethelred  st.,  Lambeth.  .  . 
Eton  avenue,  Hampstead  .  , 
Eton  road,  Haverstcck  bill 
Eton  street,  Regent'?)  p&rk 
Euston  grove,    EustK^a    aq^ 

Euston  road 

Euston  square,  Euston  thhH 
Euston  sq.  railway  pltLtios 
Euston  street,  Euston  aq.  . 
Evelina  road  ....*.- 
Evelyn  St.,  New  North  rd. 


sa 


47 
67 


n 

38 


35 


n 

9 


41 


5 
36 
56 


32 


13 


27 


56 


47 
36 


18 


30 


51 


31 
1 


34 


34 


43 


m 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


15 


B  s  e 


B   B  O 


Bverett  at,  Soath  Lambeth 
BTerfholt  street,  Oakley  aq. 
Ewer  street,  Borough  .  .  . 
Bxehaage  buildings  .  .  /// 
Exeter  street,  Chelsea .  .  . 

,  Strand // 

Bzhibitionroad,  Soath  Ken- 
sington    

Exmonth   St.,   Glerhenwell 

^  Commercial  road  east 

,  Hackney 

Eyre   street   hill,    Clerken- 

well  road 

Enra  St.,  Columbia  road .   . 

Fair  street,  Horselydown . 
Fair  street,  Stepney .... 
Fairdongh  st.  ,BaokChreh.  la. 
Faircombe  St.,  Bermondsey 
Fairfax  road.Finchley  road, 

Hampstead 

Fairfield  road.  Bow  .... 
Fairfoot  road.  Bow  .... 
Falcon  road,  Battersea  .  . 
Falcon  sq.,  Aldersgate  st.  /// 
Falkland  road,  Kentish  tn. 
Falmonth  rd.,  Kew  Kent  rd. 
Fann  street,  Aldersgate  st. 
Fanshaw  st.,  Hoxton  .  .  . 
Faraday  street,  Walworth 
Farm  lane,  Walham  green 
Farm  street,  Berkeley  sq.  / 
Famham  rd.,  Bennington  . 
Farringdon  avenue .  .  .  // 
Farringdon  road  ....// 
Farringdon  st..  City  .  .  // 
Farringdon  street  station  // 
Fashion  st.,  Spitalfields  /// 
FauBce  st.,  Kennington  pk. 
Fawcett  st.,  Finborough  rd. 
Fawley  rd.,  West  End  .  .  . 
Featherstone  buildings,  High 

Holborn // 

Featiierstone  st..  City  road 
Felix  street,  Hackney  road 

,  Thomhill  road  .  .  . 

Fellbrigg  St..  Cambridge  rd. 
Fellows  road,  Hampstead  . 
Fellows  St.— Korth  A  South, 

Kingsland  road 

Felton  St.,  Hoxton  .... 
Fen  court,  Fenchurch  street 
Fenchurch  street,  City    /// 

railway  station  .  /// 

Fendall  street,  Grange  road 
Fenelon  road,  Kensington  . 
Fentiman^s  rd.,  Clapham  rd. 
Ferdinand  pi. ,  Chalk  farm  rd. 
Ferdinand  st.  ,Chalk  farm  rd. 
Fermoy  rd.,  Paddington .  . 
Fern  street,  Bromley  .  .  . 


23 


18 


36 


64 


62 


26 


Femdiff  rd.,  Shacklewell  . 
Femhead  road,  Harrow  rd. 
Femtower  road,  Highbury 

Kew  park 

Fetter  lane,  dty  ....// 
Finborough     road ,     West 

Brompton 

Finch  lane,  City  .../// 
Finch  street,  Whitechapel 
Finchley  pi.,  St.  John's  Wood 
Finchley  road,  St.  John's 

wood 

,  Walworth 

Finsbury  avenue,  Crown  st. 
Finsbury  circus.  City  .  /// 

Finsbury  market 

Finsbury  pavement.  City  /// 
Finsbury  square.  City  road 
Fish  street  liill,  City  .  /// 
Fisher  st.,  Red  Lion  sq.  // 

Fitqohn's  avenue 

FitBroy  hall / 

Fiteroy  road,  BegenVs  park 
Fitxroy  sq.,  Grafton  st.  .  . 
Fitsroy  street,  Fitsroy  sq.  / 
Fleet  la.,  Farringdon  st.  // 
Fleet  street.  City  .  .  .  // 
Flemming  street,  Kingsland 

road 

Fleur-de-lis  st,  Spitalfields 
Flint  St.,  East  st.,  Walworth 

,  Poplar  New  town  .  . 

Flockton  St.,  Bermondsey  . 
Flood  street,  Chelsea  .  .  . 
Floral  St.,  Co  vent  garden  . 
Florence  street,  Islington  . 
Florida  St.,  Bethnal  green . 
Flower  A  Dean  st.,  Spital- 
fields    

Foley  street,  Langham  st.  / 
Folly  lane.    Bridge    road, 

Battersea 

Fopstone  rd.  Earl's  Court  rd. 
Ford  road,  Old  Ford  rd.  . 
Ford  street.  Old  Ford  rd.  . 
Fordham  st.,  Whitechapel. 
Fore  street,  Cripplegate  /// 
Foreip  Cattle  Market,  Dept- 

Forest  road,  Dalston.  .  .  . 
Forfar  rd.,  Battersea  .  .  . 
Formosa  street,  Paddington 
Forston  St.,  Hoxton  .... 
Fort  road,  Bermondsey  .  . 
Fort  street,  Spitalfields  .  . 

Fortess  rd 

Fortune  gm.  la.,  Hampstead 
Foster  lane,  Cheapside  /// 
Foulis  terrace,  Fulham  rd. 
Foundling  Hospital,  Guil- 
ford street 


43 


36 


43 

48 


44 
44 
44 
44 
U 
48 
32 

24 

24 
24 
36 
36 


34 


48 


21 


48 
24 


11 

1 


51 
40 


46 


8 

) 

44 
I 

39 
32 


62 
19 

45 


16 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B  B  e 


B  s  e 


FooBtAin  court.  City .  .  // 
Foamier  si.,  Hftckney  road 
Foxley  road,  North  Brixton 
Frampton  park  road  .  .  . 
Francis  St.,    Bamsbnry  rd. 

,  TothiU  fields  .  .   lY 

,  Tottenham  court  road 

Franklin  row,  Chelsea    .  / 

,  PimJico  road  .... 

Frasier  street,  Lambeth  .  . 
Frederick  pi.,  Mile  end  road 
Frederickst.,  Caledonian  rd. 

,  Gray's  inn  rd 

,  Hampstead  rd.  .  .   . 

.  Portland  town   .  .   . 

Freeling  St.,  Caledonian  rd. 
French  Prot.  Church  .  .  / 
French  B.  Cath.  Chapel  / 
Friar  st.,  Blackfriars  road 
Friday  street,  Cheapside  /// 
Frith  street,  8  oho  square  / 
Fulham  place,  Harrow  rd. 

Fulham  park 

Fulham  road,  Brompton  . 
Fuller  St.,  Bethnal  green  . 
Fumiyal  street,  Holbom  // 

Gaiety  theatre,  Strand  .  // 
Gainford  st.,  Richmond  rd. 
Gainsborough  rd.,  Grove  rd. 
Gainsford  st.,  Horselydown 
Gaisford  St.,  Kentish  town 

road    ....  

Gait  St.,  Limehouse  .... 
Galway  street,  St.  Luke's  . 
Ganton  st.,  Camaby  st.  .  / 
Garden  row,  London  road 
Gardener's  road,  Boman  rd. 
Garford  street,  Poplar  .  . 
Garlick  hill.  Upper  Thames 

street  

Gamault  place,  Clerkenwell 
Garrick  Club,  Garrick  st.  // 
Garrick  st.,  Covent  grdn.  // 
Garrick  theatre  ....// 
Garway  rd.,  Westbourne  gr. 
Gascoyne  road,  Victoria  pk. 
Gate   street,  Lincoln's  inn 

fields.  . // 

Gayhurst  rd.,  London  fields 
Gaywood  street,  London  rd. 
Gee  street,  Goswell  road   . 

,  Somerstown    .... 

General  Post  Office  .  .  /// 
Geological  Museum  .  .  .  / 
George  Ist's  statue  .  .  .  / 
George  st.,  Blackfriars  rd. 

,  Camberwell 

,  Euston  rd 

,  HanoTer  sq.    .   .   .  / 

,  Manchester  sq.  .  .  / 


48 


f^ 


35 


69 


a4 


241 
'.'20 


35 


George  St.,  Mansion  ho.  /// 

,  St.  Giles's    ,  .  ,    IJ 

,  Tower  hill     .   .  /// 

George  yard,  London  st.  . 
George's  road,  HoUoway  . 
Georgiana  St.,  Camden  tn. 
Gerald  Road,  Eaton  sq.  .  . 
German  hospital,  Dalston 
Gerrard  street,  Islington    . 

,  Soho / 

Gertrude  street,  Chelsea.  . 
Gervase  St.,  Peckham  .  .  . 
Gibraltar  walk,  Bethnal  gm. 
Gibson  square,  Islington.  . 
Gifi'ord  St.,  Caledonian  rd. 
Gilbert  road,  Bennington  . 
Gilbert  st..  Museum  st.    // 

,  Grosvenor  sq.     .  .  / 

Gill  street,  Limehouse  .  . 
Gilston  rd.,  W.  Brompton. 
Giltspur  st.,W.8mithfield  // 
Gladstone  st.,  London  road 
Glasgow  ter.,  Pimlico  .  .  . 
Glaskin  road.  Hackney  .  . 
Glasshouse  st.,  Begent  st.  / 

,  Boyal  Mint  street .   . 

,  Vauxhall 

Glenarm  rd..  Lower  Clapton 
Glengall  rd.,  Cubitt  town  . 

,  Old  Kent  rd 

Globe  road.  Mile  end  .  .  . 
Gloucester  cres..  Regent's  pk. 

,  Westbourne  park .   . 

Gloucester  gate,Regent's  pk. 
Gloucester  gro.,01d  Bromptn. 
Gloucester  mews  west,  Hyde 

park / 

Gloucester  place,   Portman 

square    ......../ 

Gloucester  rd.,  Glo'str.  gate 

,  Peckham  gro.    .  .  . 

,  Kensington  gate    .   . 

Gloucester  road  station  .  . 
Gloucester  sq.,  Hyde  park 
Gloucester  st.,  Camden  tn. 
—  — ,  Clerkenwell    .... 

,  PimJico 

,  Portman  sq.    .   .  .  / 

,  Queen  sq.    ...     // 

,  Lambeth 

Gloucester  ter.,  Hyde  park 

,  Kensington 

,  Regent's  pk 

GK)da  street,  Lambeth  .  .  . 
Godfrey  St.,  Calest.,  Chelsea 
Godliman    street,   Doctors' 

commons // 

Golden  lane,  Barbican  .  . 
Golden  square,  Regent  St.  / 

Goldhurst  terrace 

Goldington  cres.,  Pancras  rd. 


64 


68 


m 

37 
46 
43 


45 


n 


27 


IQ 
51 


38 
19 

33 


39 
47 


19 


Ifcl 


33 

! 

\ 
f 

) 
\ 

n 

40 


19 

33 

il 

2 


21 


19 


29 

13 


40 


27 


SQUAKES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


17 


B  s  e 


B   K  G 


47 


Goldington   atreet,  8omert< 

town 71 

Qoldney  road,  Harrow  road   8 
Goldsmith  road ,  Peckham. 
Qoldsmith  at.,  Wood  tt.  /// 
Qoldamitht*  row,  Hackney 

road 47 

Goodge   street,   Tottenham 

court  road /    .24 

Goodman's    fields,    White- 
chapel    IT 

Goodman's  yd.,  Minories///  .  17 
Gordon  plaee,  Bloomsbnry  2S  ^ 
Gordon  square,  Wobnm  sq.  2B  '2S 
Gordon  street,  Gordon  sq.  2B 
Goring  street,  Honndsditeh  51 
Gosfield  St.,  Langham  st.  /  .24 
Gossett  St.,  Bethnal  gm.  rd.  48 

Goswell  road 36  40 

Gongh  square.  Fleet  street    .  35 
Gough  street.  Bast  India  rd.    .  p 

,  Gray's  inn  rd.  .   .  . 

Goulston   St.,  Whitechapel 

///    .  47 
Goyemment  offices.  Down- 
ing street IV    .38 

Gower  place,  Buston  square  28 
Gowcr  street,  Bedford  sq.  /  28  3& 
Gower's  walk,  Whitechapel    .  47 
Ghrace  street,  Bromley ... 
Gracechurch  St.,  City  .  ///    .43 
Graces  rd.,  Peckham  rd.    . 
Grafton  rd.,  Kentish  town 
Grafton  street,  Fiteroy  sq.    .  2i 

,  Mile  end 56  66 

,  Bond  St.       ..../.  33 

Graham  rd.,  Dalston    .  .  .  4G 
Graham  street,  City  road 

,  Pimlico 

Granby  St.,  Bethnal  green    48 

f  Hampstead  rd.  .  .  .  23 

Grand    ar.,    Leadenhall 

market /// 

Grand  Surrey  I>ock0,Bother- 

hithe 

Grange  road,  Bermondsey  . 

,  Camden  town ....   23 

,  Canonbury  pk.  ...   37 

Grange  street,  Hozton    .  .  4B 
Grange  walk,  Bermondsey 

Grantully  road 

GrauTille  pi.,  Portman  sq.  / 
Grarel  lane,  Honndsditeh  . 

,  Southwark 

Gray  street,  Blackfriars  rd. 

,  Manchester  sq.  .  .  / 

Gray's  Inn,  High  Holbom  // 
Gray's  Inn  road    ....//  32 
Gray's  Inn  sq.,  Gray's  inn  // 
Grayhurst  rd.,  Dalston   .  . 
Grayshott  rd.,  Lavender  hi.    .    .20 
Babdeseb's  London.    16th  Edit. 


19 
4t 
34 
33 
19 

4t;    I 


44 


67 


Great  Alie  street,  Goodman's 
fields JV 

Great  Arthur  St.,  Golden  la. 

Great  Barlow  street,  Mary- 
lebone / 

Great  Bland  St.,  Gt.  Dover  st. 

Great  Cambridge  street, 
Hackney  road 

Great  Castle  St.,  Regent  st.  / 

Great  Central  terminus,  Ma- 
rylebone 

Great  Chapel  street,  Oxford 
street  / 

,  Westminster   .  .  IV 

Great  Chart  street,  Hoxton 

Great  College  st.,  Camden tn. 

,  Westminster    .  .  IV 

Great  Coram  street,  Bruns- 
wick square 

Ghreat  Cumberland  place.  . 

Great  Dover  st.,  Southwark 

Great  Earl  St.,  Seven  dials  // 

Great  Bastem  street.  .  .  . 

G^eat  Bastem  terminus, 
Liverpool  street     .  .  Ill 

Great  Garden  St.,  Spitalfields 

Great  George  street,  West- 
minster   IV 

Great  Guildford  street. 
Borough /// 

Great  Hermitage  street, 
Wapping 

Great  James  st. ,  Bedford  row. 

,  Hoxton 

,  Lisson  gro 

Great  Marlborough  street  / 

Great  Maae  pnd.,  Southwk. 

GreatMitchell  st.,  St.  Luke's 

Great  Hew  st.,  Fetter  la.  // 

Great  Newport  st.,  Soho  // 

Great  Hotthem  terminus. 
King's  cross 

Great  Ormond  St.,  Queen  so . 

Great  Pearl  St.,  Spitalfielas 

Great  Percy  St.,  King's  cross 

Great  Peter  street,  West- 
minster    IV 

Great  Portland  street  .  .  / 

Great  Prescot  street,  Good- 
man's fields /// 

Great  Pulteney  street ,  Gol- 
den square / 

Great  Quebecst.,  Montagu  sq. 

Great  Queen  street,  Lin- 
coln's inn  fields    .  .  .  // 

Great  Russell  st..  Blooms- 
bury /,  // 

Great  Safi&on  hill,  Charter- 
house street // 

Great  St.  Andrew  street, 
Seven  dials // 


47 


44 


47 
40 


20 
87 


23 
16 


27 
25 


25 

28 
15 
37 
27 
44 

U 
48 

25 


43 


60 
32 

16 
23 
42 

) 
35 
27 


25 
24 

47 

23 
16 

31 

26 

36 

27 


18 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B  B  e 


B  B  e 


yJ-i 


Qreat  8t.  Helen's,  Bithopt- 

gate /// 

Great  St.  Thomas  Apostle, 

Bow  lane Ill 

Oreat  Scotland  yard,  Char- 
ing cross IV 

Great  Smith  street,  West- 
minster    IV 

Great  Stanhope  street  .  IV 
Great  Suffolk  st..  Borough 
Great  Sutton  St..  Glerkenwell 
eat  Titchfleld  street,  Ox- 
ford street    / 

Ghreat  Tower  st..  City  .  /// 
Great  Trinity  lane,  Gannon 

street  west /// 

Great    Western    terminus , 

Paddington 

Great    White    Lion   street, 

Seven  dials // 

Great  Wild  st.,  Drury  la.  // 
Great  Winchester  street  /// 
Great  WindmiU  street, 
CoYcntry  street  .  .  .  .  / 
Greek  street,  Soho  square  I 
Green  Bank,  Wapping.  .  . 
Green  lane,  ^ewington  Green 
Green  park,  St.  James's  IV 
Green  st.,  Bethnal  green   . 

,  Grosvenor  sq..  .  .  / 

,  Leicester  sq.  .   .  .  / 

,  Marlboro^  road,  Ghel- 


Greencroft  road 

Green  Man  street,  Essex  rd. 

Greenwich  Hospital  .... 

Greenwich  Kayal  Asylum  . 

Greenwich  Obseryatory  .  . 

Greenwich  Park 

Greenwich  pier 

Greenwich  railway  station, 
London  road 

Greenwich  road 

Greenwich  tunnel 

Greenwood  road,  Dalston  . 

Grenard  rd.,  Oamberwell  . 

Grenville  street,  Guilford  st. 

Gresham  st..  City  .../// 

Gresse  street,  Tottenham  ct. 
road / 

Greville  pi.,  Kilbum  priory 

Greville  road,  Kilburn    .  . 

GrcYille  street,  Holbom  // 

Greycoat  street,  Westminster 
IV 

Ghrey  Eagle  st.,  Spitalfields 

Grevstoke  place ,  Fetter  la. 

Griffin  st.,Tork  rd.,  Lambeth 

Grimsworth  rd..  South  Lam- 
beth  

Groombridge  road,  Hackney 


49 


64 


32 


28 


13 


27 


Grosvenor    cres.,    Belgrave 

square 

Ghrosvenor  gardens,  Pimlico 
Grosvenor  gate,  Hyde  park  / 
Grosvenor  House  .  .  .  .  / 
Grosvenor  mews,  Grosvenor 

street / 

Grosvenorpark,  Oamberwell 
Grosvenor  place,  Hyde  park 

comer IV 

Grosvenor  road,  Highbury 

,  Pimlico 

raU.  station 

Grosvenor  square  .  .   .  .  / 
Grosvenor  street.   Camber- 
well  road 

,  Gomrcl.  rd.  ea.  .  .  . 

,  New  Bond  street.  .  / 

Ghrosvenor  ter.,  Oamberwell 

road 

Grove  end  rd.,  St.  John's  wd. 
Grove  gardens,  Regent's  pk. 
Grove  lane,  Oamberwell 
Grove  park  square,  Oamber- 
well grove    

Grove  place,  Lisson  grove 
Grove  road.  Falcon  lane    . 

,  St.  John's  wood    .   . 

Grove  street,  Deptford    .  . 

,  Hackney 

Guards'  Olub,  Pall  mall  IV 
Guildford  rd..  Poplar  New 

town 

Guildford  street,   Lambeth 
Guildhall,  King  st..  Cheap- 
side /// 

Guildhall  School  of  Music  // 
Guilford  road.  Poplar  .  .  . 
Ghiilford  st.,  Bussell  square 
Gun  la..  West  India  dockrd. 
Gun  street,  Spitalfields  .  . 
Gundulf  St.,  Lambeth  .  .  . 
Gunter  gro.,We.  Brompton . 
Gumey  st.,  Walworth  .  .  . 
Gutter  lane,  Cheapside  /// 
Guy's  Hospital,  St.  Thomas's 

street,  Borough 

Guy  street,  Bermondsey  .  . 
Gwynne  road,  Battersea  .  . 
Gye  street,  Lambeth    .  .  . 


37 


Haberdasher  street,  Hoxton 
Hackford  road,  Brixton  .  . 
Hackney  downs  station  .  . 
Hackney  rail,  sta..  Church 

street 

Hackney  road 

Hadley  street,  Kentish  town 
Haggerston  rail,  sta.,  Lee  st. 
Haggerston  rd.,  Kingsland  rd. 
Hague  St.,  Bethnal  green  rd, 


17 
17 
IS 

m 

23 


17 


19 


la 


a5 

19 


33 


22 


44 

U 

'ifS 
67 

27 


29 

80 
36 
6ti 
32 
63 
4& 


3* 


26 
G 
37 


il 


12 
30 


49 


31 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


19 


B  s  a 


B   R  G 


Haines  at.,  Battertea  road 
HalfmooB  eret.,  lalington 
—  •treat,  Piccadilly.  .  IV 
Half  Kiohol0  St.,  Shoreditch 
Halidon  street,  Horn.  .  .  . 
Halkin  at.,  Grosvenor  pi.  IV 
Hall  place,  Paddington  .  . 
Hall  road,  8t.  John's  wood 
Hall  street,  City  road  .  .  . 
Hallam  St.,  Portland  Place  / 
Halliford  street,  Islington  . 
Halsey  street,  Chelsea  .  .  . 
Halton  road,  Islington  .  .  . 
Hamburg  St.,  London  Fields 
Hamilton  pi.,  Piccadilly  IV 
Hamilton  road.  Grove  road 
Hamilton  St.,  Camden  town 
Hamilton  terrace,  St.  John's 

wood 

Hamish  st.,  Lambeth  walk 
Hammond  St.,  Kentish  tn. 
Hampden  street,  Harrow  rd. 
Hampstead  rd. ,  Hampstead 
Hampstead  rd.,  Tottenham 

court  road 

Hampton  St.,  Walworth  rd. 
Hamsell  St.,  Oripplegate  /// 
Hanbury  St.,  Spitalflelds  . 
Handel  St.,  Bninswick  sq. . 
Hanniker    road,    Stratford 

New  town 

Hanover  square,  Oxford  st.  / 
Hanover  St.,  Hanover  sq.  / 

,  Islington 

,  Kentish  tn 

,  Pimlico     ..'... 

Hanover  ter.,  Begent's  park 
Hans  place,  Sloane  street  . 
Hans  St.,  Brompton  rd.  .  . 
Hanway  street,  Oxford  st.  / 
Harcourt  street,  Marylebone 
Hardinge  street.  Commercial 

road  east 

Hardington  street,  Portman 

market 

Hare  street,  Bethnal  green 
Hare  walk,  Kingsland  road 
Harewood  *>yt,j.  Marylebone 
Harewoodpl.,  Hanover  sq.  / 
Harewood  square,  Dorset  sq. 
Harewood  st.,  Harewood  sq. 
Harford  street.  Stepney  .  . 
Harley  rd.,  St.  John's  wood 
Harley  street.  Bow  road 

,  Cavendish  sq..  .  .  / 

Harleyford  road,  vauxhall 
Harling  street,  Albany  road, 

Camberwell 

Harman  st.,  Kingsland  rd. 
Harmood  st.,  Chalk  Frm. 

road 


32 


16 


48 


22 


21 


18 


20 


13 


29 


37 


n 


Harp  lane.  Lower  Thames 
street /// 

Harriet  rd.,  Peckham  .  .  . 

Harrington  gardens,  Glou- 
cester road 

Harrington  rd.,  Kensington 

Harrington  sq. ,  Hampstd.  rd. 

Harrington  St.,  Hampstd.  rd. 

Harrison  St.,  Gray's  inn  rd. 

Harrow  alley,  Houndsditch 

Harrow  road,  Paddington  . 

Harrow  street,  Lisson  gro. 

Hart  st^  Bloomsbxury  square 

—  — ,  Grosvenor  sq. .  .  .  / 

Hartham  road,  Camden  rd. 

HartingtoD  rd.,  S.  Lambeth 

Hartland  road,  Chalk  farm 

,  BLilbum 

Hartley  street.  Green  street 

Hartous  St.,  Deptford    .   .   . 

Hart's  la.,  Bethnal  green  rd. 

Harvey   road,    Camberwell 

Harwar  st,  Kingsland  road 

Harwood  road,  Fulham  .  . 

Haslam  pi.,  Peckham  .  .  . 

Hassard  street.  Hackney  rd. 

Hastings  street,  Burton  ores. 

Hatcham,  Surrey 

Hatcham  Kew  Town,  Old 
Kent  road 

Hatcham  park  road,  New 
Cross  rd 

Hatfield  street,  Goswell  rd. 

,  Stamford  st 

Hatton  garden ,  Holborn 
circus II 

Hatton  wall,  Hatton  garden 

Havelock  st.,  Copenhagen  st. 

Havel  ock  road 

Haverstock  hill 

Haverstock  street,  City  rd. 

Havil   street,    Camberwell 

Hawley  cres.,   Kentish  tn. 

Hawley  road,  Kentish  town 

Haydonsq.,][inories    .  /// 

Hayles  st.,  St.  George's  rd. 

Haymarket,  Pall  Hall.  .  / 

Haymarket  theatre  .   .  .  / 

Hayne  street.  Long  lane    . 

Hay's  lane.  Tooley  street  . 

Heath  road,  Hampstead  .  . 

Heath  street,  Commercial 
road  east  

Heaton  place,  Stratford  .  . 

Heddon  street.  Begent  st.  / 

Helmet  row,  St.  Luke's  .  . 

Hemingford  rd.,  Islington . 

Hemsworth  street,  Hoxton 

Heneage  St.,  Whitechapel . 

Henley  street ,  Battersea 
road  east  


13 


4B 
5 


2ai 
32 


43 
8 
16 
28 
19 


40 
34 


63 
d9 


47 


56 
50 
56 


m 


^ 


47 

40 
42 


33 


20 


% 


4e 


20 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


BEG 


B   K  O 


Henrietta  street,  Cayendish 

sqaare / 

1,  Gorent  garden   .    // 

Henry  street,  Bermondsey  st. 

,  Gray's  Inn  rd.    ... 

,  PentonyiUe 

,  Portland  town   .  .  . 

,  St.  Lnke's 

,  Upper  Kennington lane 

Henshall  St.,  New  North  rd. 
Herbert  st.,  Kew  North  rd. 
Hercnlesrd.,  Lamheth.  .  . 
Hereford  grdns.,  Park  la.  / 
Hereford  road,  Bayswater 
Hereford  sq.,  Old  Brompton 
Hereford  St.,  Lisson  grove. 
Herme    street,    Paddington 

green 

Hermes  street,  Pentonrllle 
Herrick  St.,  Pimlieo  .... 
Hersee  pi.,  Green  street.  . 
Hertford  Honse,  Manchester 

square / 

Hertford  rd.,  Kingsland  .  . 
Hertford  street,  Mayfair  IV 
Hewled  roadjBoman  road 
Heygate  st.,  Walworth  rd. 
Hickmans  Folly  ,Bermondsey 

Hicks  theatre / 

High  Holhom // 

High  street,  Aldgate    .  /// 

,  Battersea 

,  Bloomsbnry    .... 

,  Borongh 

,  Bromley 

,  Gamberwell   .... 

,  Camden  town.   .  .   . 

,  Deptford 

,  Homerton 

,  Islington 

,  Kensington 

,  Kingsland 

,  Lambeth 

,  Marylebone  .  .   .   .  / 

,  Notting  hUl    .... 

,  Peckham 

,  Poplar 

,  St.  Giles's    .   .    /,  // 

,  St.  John's  wood    .   . 

,  Shadwell 

,  Shoreditch 

,  Wapping 

,  Whitechapel   .  .  /// 

Highbury  crescent 

Highbury  grove 

Highbury  New  park .... 
Highbury  place,  Holloway 
Highbury  railway  station,  rd. 

Holloway  road 

Highbury  terrace,  Highbury 

crescent  


23 


45 


11 


SO 


25 


37 


12 


40 


20 


47 


Highgate  road,  Kentish  tn. 
Hilgrove  road,  Finchley  rd. 
Hill  place  street,  Upper 
North  street,  Potplar  .  . 
Hill  road,  St.  John's  wood 
Hill  street,  Berkeley  sq.  .  / 

,  BlackMars  rd.  .  .  . 

,  Finsbury 

,  Enightsbridge     .  .  . 

Hilldrop  orescent,  Holloway 
Hilldrop  road,  Camden  rd. 
Hillfiela  road,  Hampstead 
Hillingdon  St.,  Walworth  . 
Hillmarton  road,Camdenrd. 
Hills  place,  Oxford  street  / 
Hind  street,  Poplar  .... 
Hinde  St.,  Manchester  sq.  / 
Hindle  street ,  Shacklewell 
Hindon  street,  Pimlieo   .  . 

Hippodrome // 

His  Mi^esty's  theatre  I^IV 
Hobart  place,  Eaton  sq.  IV 
Hobury  street,  Chelsea  .  . 
Holbein  pi.,  Sloane  sq    .  . 

Holbom // 

Holborn  circus  ....// 
Holbom  viaduct.  .  .  .  // 
Holbom  viaduct  station  // 
Holford  square,  Pentonville 
Holland  grove,  Cranmer  rd. 
Holland  House,  Kensington 
Holland  park,  Notting  hill 
Holland  park  avenue,  Not- 
ting hUl    

^  road,  Addison  road  . 

Holland  road,  Brixton.  .  . 
Holland  St.,  Blackfriars  rd. 

,  Brixton  rd 

,  Kensington 

Holland  walk,  Kensington  . 
Hollen  St.,  Soho  .  .  .  .  / 
Holies  St.,  Cavendish  sq.  / 
HoUingsworth  St.,  Holloway 
Hollington  road,  Wyndham 

road 

Holloway  road 

Holly  road,  Dalston  .... 
HoUybush  gardens,  Bethnid 

green 

Hollywood      road ,      West 

Brompton 

Holmbrook  st.,  Homerton. 
Holms  St.,  Hackney  road  . 
Holtham  rd.  ,St.  John's  wood 
Holyoake  road,  Dante  road 
Holy  Trinity  Church,  Bromp- 
ton   

Holywell  lane,  Shoreditch 

Holywell  row,  Finsbury     . 

Home  Office,    Government 

build.,  Whitehall    .  .  IV 


45 


32 


IS 
33 
44 

13^ 


23 
B3 

:9 


57 
SB 
17 


m 

31 

3& 


10 
17 


36 


36 

\ 

31 


29 


2 
21 
34 


52 


m 


m 


SQUABBS,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


21 


B  s  e 


B   K  O 


Homer  road ,  Victoria  park 
Homer  row,  Marylebone  rd. 
Homer  itreet,  Crawford 

street  

HomertoB 

Honey  lane,  City  .../// 
Honeybotinie  rd..  Weft  Bnd 
Horaee  at.,  South  Lambetb 
Homey  lane,  Bermondfey  . 
Homton  itreet,  Kensington 
Horseferry  road,  Westmin- 
ster  IV 

Horse  Ouards,  Whitehall /F 
Horse  Ghiards  ayenue  .  .  . 
Horsell  rd.,  Highbury  .  .  . 
Horselydown    lane ,     Shad 

Thames 

Horseshoe  alley,  FUisbury  . 
Horseshoe  yard,  Kew  Bond 

street / 

Horton  road,  Wilton  road  . 
Hosier  la.,  W.  Smithileld // 
Houghton  St.,  Glare  market  // 
Houndsditeh,  City .../// 
Howard  street,  Strand.    // 

,  Poplar 

Howey  St.,  Bridge  rd.,  Batt. 
Howiek  rd.,  Victoria  rd.  /F 
Howland  street,  Fitzroysq.  / 
Howleyplaoe,  Belvedere  rd. 

,  Harrow  road  .... 

Hows  street,  Eingsland  road 
Hoxton  square,  Hoxton  st. . 
Hozton  street.  Old  st. .  .  . 
Huggin  lane.  Wood  street, 

Cnieapside /// 

Hugh  street,  Pimlico  .  .  . 
Hungerford   pier,   Victoria 

embankment IV 

Hungerford  road,  Camden  rd. 
Hunt  street,  Pelham  street 
Hunter  street,  Brunswick  sq. 
Huntingdon  St.,  Caledonian 

road 

Huntingdon  st.,  Hoxton  st. 
Huntley  street,  Bedford  sq. 
Hnribott  st.,  Ifewington  .  . 
Hutton  rd.,  Vauxhall  .  .  . 

Hyde  park 

Hyde  park  comer  .  .  .  /F 
Hyde  park  grdns.,  Hyde  pk. 
Hyde  park  gate,  Kensington 
Hyde  park  pi.,  Marble  arch/ 

Hyde  park  square 

Hyde  park  st.,  Hyde  pk.  .  . 
Hyde  pk.  ter.,  Bayswater  rd. 
Hyde  place,  Westminster  . 
Hyde  road,  Battersea  .  .  . 
,  Hoxton 


6C 


Idol  lane,  Gt.  Tower  street    .  42 


43 


^9 


71 


^9 


S!> 


Ifleld  road.  West  Brompton 

Imperial  Institute 

Imperial  Institute  road  .  . 
Imperial  theatre  .  .  .  .  /F 
India  Off.,  St.  James's  pk.  IV 
Ingleton  street,  Brixton  road 
Inglewood  rd.,  West  End  . 
Ingrave  street,  Battersea  . 
Inkerman  road,  Kentish  tn. 
Inner  Circle,  BegenVs  park 

Inner  Temple // 

Invemess  gardens.  Kensgtn. 
Invemess  road,  Bisnop's  road 
Invemess  terrace,  Bayswater 
Inrille  road,  Walworth  .  . 
Ion  square.  Hackney  road  . 
Ironmonger  lane,  Cheapside 
/// 
Ironmonger  row,  St.  Luke's 

Isle  of  Dogs 

Islington  High  street  .  .  . 
Islington  railway  stat. .  .  . 
Islip  St.,  Kentish  town  road 

Isthmian  Club IV 

iTema  gds.,  Kensington  .  . 
Iverson  road,  Kilbum .  .  . 

Ivy  lane,  Hozton 

,  Paternoster  row,   .  . 

Jacob  St.,  MiU  st.,  Doekhead 
Jacob's  street,  Shoreditch  . 
Jamaica  road,  Bermondsey 
Jamaica  street,  Commercial 

road  east 

James  grove,  Peckham  .  . 
James  street,  Bethnal  green 

,  Buckingham  gate  IV 

,  Glapham 

,  Commercial  road  east 

,  Covent  garden  .  .    // 

,  Bssex  road 

,  Haymarket .  .  .  .  / 

,  Kensington  sq.  ,   .  . 

,  Oxford  street .  .  .  / 

,  Westboume  ter.    .  . 

Jardin  street,  Albany  road 
Jeffrey  street,  Camden  town 
Jeffries  road,  Clapham  road 
Jeremiah  street.  East  India 

dock  road  

Jermyn  st.,  St.  James's  /,  IV 
Jemingham  rd.,  l^ew  Gross 
Jersey  St.,  Bethnal  Oreen  . 
Jewin  cres.,  Jewin  street  . 
Jewin  St.,  Cripplegate,  City 
Jewry  street,  Aldgate  .  /// 
Jocelyn  st.,  Peckham  .  .  . 

Jockey's  fields // 

John  St.,  Adelphi,  Strand  // 

,  Edgware  road    .  .  . 

,  Minories  ..../// 


48 


40 


86 
83 
21 


9 
9 
26 
26 


82 
13 


85 
2 

7 

7 


42 


65 


22 

1 


48 


39 
45 
45 

55 

.  i 

21 


56 


47 


55 
31 

J 
26 
5 
19 
11 


28 


22 


42 
28 


67 
22 
.  C 
52 
40 
40 
47 

32 
80 
16 

47 


60 


47 


22 


UST  OF  THE  PBINOIPAL  STREETS, 


B  R  e 


B   It  G 


John  St.,  St.  John's  wood  . 

,  Theobald's  rd. .   .  // 

,  Wilmington  tq.  .  .  . 

,  nth. ,  Marylebone  rd. 

,  west,  Thomhill  sq.  . 

John  Gampbell  road,  High 

street,  ^ngsland  .... 
Johnson     St.,     Oonunercial 

road  east    .  • 

,  Camden  tn 

Joiners  street,  Tooley  street 
Jonathan  St.,  Yauzhall  walk 
Jubilee  place ,  King's  road, 

Chelsea 

Jnbilee  street.  Commercial 

road  east 


Jadd  street,  Brunswick  sq. 
Junior  Constitutional  Club 
IV 
Junior  United  Serrice  Club  / 
Junior  Athennnm  Club  .  JV 
Junior  Carlton  Club  .  .  IV 
Juxon  street,  Lambeth.  .  . 


Kassala  rd.,  Battersea  .  .  . 

Kean  street,  Eingsway   .  // 

Keetons  road,  Eotherhithe 

Kempsford  gardens,  Rich- 
mond rd.,  West  Brompton 

Kempsford  rd..  Lower  Ken- 
nington  lane 

Kempshed  rd.,  Albany  rd. . 

Kender  street,  New  Cross  . 

Kenilworth  rd.,  Roman  rd. 

Kenmure  road,  Dalston  .  . 

Kennett  road,  Harrow  road 

Kennington  oval 

Kennington  park 

Kennington  park  gardens. 
Royal  road 

Kennington  park  road  .   .  . 

Kennington  road,  Lambeth 

Kensington  gardens  .... 

Kensington   gardens  square 

Kensington  gate 

Kensington  gore,  Kensington 

Kensington  High  street  .   . 

Kensington  Palace 

Kensington  palace    gardens 

Kensington  pk.  grdns.,  Lad- 
brooke  square 

Kensington  park  road  .   .  . 

Kensington  road 

Kensington  square 

Kensington  station    .... 

Kentish  town  road    .... 

Kenton  street,  Brunswick  sq. 

,  Russel  sq. 

Keppel  street,  Chelsea    .   . 

Keppel  street,  Gower  street 
/,  // 


66 


31 


28 


13 


28 


peen 
In< 


idia 


Kerbela  St.,  Bethnal 
Kerbey  street,    Bast 

dock 

Kilbum  lane,  Kilbnm  .  .  . 
KUdare  gardens,  Bayswater 
Kildare  terrace,  Bayswater 
Kilton  street.  Lower  Wands-' 

worth  roaa 

King  square,  GosweU  road 
King  street,  Baker  street  / 

,  Cale  St.,  Chelsea    .  . 

,  Camden  town .... 

,  Cheapside.  .../// 

,  CoYent  garden  .   .// 

,  Golden  square    .  .  / 

,  Grosvenor  square .  / 

,  Kensington 

,  Moor  street 

,  St.  James's  sq.  .   IV 

,  Snow  hill // 

,  WhitehaU    .   .  .   /F 

King  Edward  st. ,  Blackfriars 

,  Lambeth  road   .  .   . 

,  Newgate  street .  /// 

King  Edward's  road  .... 
King    Henry  street,    Stoke 

Newington 

King  Henry's  road,   Prim- 
rose hill 

King  Henry's  walk.  Stoke 

Newington 

King  William  St.,  Greenwich 

,  London  bridge    .  /// 

,  Strand // 

King's  Bench  walk.  Temple 

King's  College,  Strand  .  // 
King's  College  Hospital,  Por- 
tugal street,  Lincoln's  inn 
// 
King's  Cross  railway  station 

King's  Cross  road 

King's  road,  Chelsea    .  .  . 

,  Hoxton  street.  .  .  . 

,  Peckham 

Kingsbury  road.  Ball's  pond 
Kingslake.  St.,  Old  Kent  rd. 
Kingsland  basin,  Kingsland 

Kingsland  road 

Kingsleigh  St.,  Shaftesbury 

park 

Kingston  St.,  Walworth  .   . 

Kingsway // 

Eingsway  theatre ....// 
Kinnerton  St.,  Knightsbridge 
Kirby  st.,  Hatton  garden  // 

Kittoroad 

Knightrider  st..  City.  .  /// 

Knightsbridge  gm.,  Hyde  pk. 

Knowsley  road,  Latchmere 

road 


48 


67 


IB 

\ 
|20 


4a 


23' 


39 
a7 
23 
19 
5 
27 

'^ 
25 
3& 
33 


43 
33 


35 
31 


71 


31 


10 
42 


31 
31 
17 
36 


16 
37 


39 
13 


66 


SQUARES,  PUBUC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


23 


B  B   O 


60 


Labunum  St.,  Kingtland  rd. 

Laeey  0tre«t,  Bow 

Ladbroke  (roTe,  Kotttng  hill 
Ladbroke  (rove  road  .  .  . 
Ladbroke  road,  Hotting  hill 
Ladbroke  square,  Hotting  hi. 
Lamb  lane,  Haekney  .  .  . 
Lambeth  bridge  .  .  .  .  /F 
Lambeth  High  street  .  .  . 
Lambeth  Lower  marsh  .  . 
Lambeth  Palaee  ,  .  ,  .  IV 
Lambeth  palaee  rd.  .  .  /F 
Lambeth  pier,  Albert  em- 
bankment    IV 

Lambeth  rd.,  Sonthwark  IV 
Lambeth  st.,  LitUe  AUe  st. 
Lambeth  Upper  marsh  .  .  . 
Lambeth  walk.  Lambeth  . 
Lamb's   Gondnlt  st.,  Theo- 

bald*s  road 

Lammas  rd..  Hackney  ...  64 
Lanark  rillas,  Clifton  rd.  .   12 
Lancaster  gate,  Hyde  park 
Lancaster  road,  Belsise  pk. 

,  Hotting  hill 

Lancaster  street,  Boro*  road 
Lancelot  pi.,  Brompton  road 
Lancing  street,  Boston  sq. 

Landseer  st.,  Bow 

Langford  pi.,  St.  John's  wood 
Langham  place,  Begent  st.  / 
Langham  st.,  Portland  pi.  / 
Langley  street.  Long  acre  // 
Langton  road,   Camberwell 

Hew  road 

Langton  street.  King's  road 
Lansdowne  house  .  .  .  .  / 
Lansdowne  place,  Guilford  st. 
Lansdowne  rd., London  fields 

,  Lambeth 

Lant  street,  Soutiiwark  .  . 
Lark  row,  Cambridge  road 
Larkhall  lane,  Clapham  .  . 
Lamaca  St.,  Bermondsey.  . 
Latchmere  groye,  Battersea 
Latchmere  road,  Battersea 
Latonard.,  Peckham.  .  .  . 
Laud  street,  Lambeth  ... 
Launeelot  st.,  Lambeth  .  . 
Laurel  street,  Queen's  road 
Laurence  Pountnev  lane  /// 
Lausanne  road,  Munhead  . 
Lavender  grove,  Queen's  rd. 

Lavender  road 

Lawford  road,  Kentish  town 
Lawn  road,  Haverstock  hill 
Lawrence  la.,  Cheapside  /// 
Lawrence  St.,  Cheyne  walk 

,  St.  Giles / 

Lawson  street,  Gt.  Dover  st. 
Layard  rd.,  Southwark  park 


60 


66 


16 


A6 


37 


46 


43 


29 


19 


27 


10 


'49 


LaystaU  St.,  Mt.  Pleasant  . 
Leadenhall  Market,  Grace- 
church  street  ....  /// 
Leadenhall  street.  City  /// 
Leader  St.,  Chelsea  .... 
Leamington  rd.  villas, West- 
bourne  park 

Leather  lane,  Holbom  .  // 
Leatherdale  st..  Globe  road 
Lebanon  street,  Walworth 
Ledbury  road,  Bayswater  . 
Lee  street,  Kingsland  rd.  . 
Leek  street,  King's  cross  rd. 
Leete  st.,  King's  rd..  Chelsea 

Lefevre  road,  Bow 

Leicester    place,   Leicester 

square / 

Leicester  square  .  .  .  .  / 
Leicester  st.,  Leicester  sq.  / 
Leigh  street.  Burton  crescent 
Leigh  ton  creseent,Kentish  tn. 
Leighton  grove,  Kentish  tn. 
Leighton  road,  Kentish  town 
Leinster  gardens,  Bayswater 
Leinster  road,  Kilburn  park 
Leinster  square,  Bayswater 
Leipsic  road,    Camberwell 

Hew  road 

Leman  st.,  Whiteehapel  /// 
Lenthall  street,  Dalston  .  . 
Leonard  st..  City  road.  .  . 
Leovanda  st.,  Kingsland  .  . 
Leroy  St.,  Old  Kent  rd.  .  . 
Lesly  street,  Bamsbury  .  . 
Lessada  street,  Boman  road 
Lever  street,  Goswell  road 
Leverton  st. ,  Kentish  town 
Lewis  St.,  Kentish  town  road 
Lewisham  road,  Greenwich 

,  Hew  Cross 

raUway  sta 

Lewisham  st.,  Westminster 

rv 

Lexham  gdns.jBarl's  court  rd. 

Lexington  street / 

Leyton  road,  Stratford    .  . 

Leyton  sq 

LiUie  road,  Fulham .... 
Lillington  St.,  Westminster 
Lime  street,Leadenhall  street 
III 
Lime  str.  sq..  Lime  str.  /// 

Limehouse  pier 

Limehouse  railway  station. 

Three  Colt  street  .... 

Limerston  street,  Chelsea  . 

Lincoln  street,  Mile  end  road 

Lincoln's  Inn // 

Lincoln's  Inn  fields .  .  .  // 
Linden  gardens,  Hottinc  hill . 
Linford  St.,  Battersea  fields 


30 


43 
43 


13 


66 


4 

m 


u 


la 


27 
27 
27 


7 
7 

47 


39 


41 


6B 
60 
64 


69 


2& 

1 
33 


41) 
21 


43 
45 

%1 


64 


10 


31 
31 


24 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B  R  e 


B   S  G 


Lingham  st. .  Stockwell  green 
Linsey  St.,  Bermondsey  .  . 
Linton  St.,  Islington .... 
Lion  street,  New  Kent  road 
Lisford  St.,  Peckham  .  .  . 
Lisle  street,  Leicester  sq.  / 
Lisson  groye,  Marylebone  rd. 
Lisson  St.,  Marylebone  road 
Litcham  st.,  Kentish  town. 
Litchfield  st.,  Soho.  .  /,  // 
Little  Albany  st..  Regent's 

park 

Little  Alio  St.,    Goodman's 

field's /// 

Little  Argyle  street,  Regent 

street / 

Little    Britain ,    Aldersgate 

street Ill 

Little  Cadogan  place,  Sloane 

street  

Little  Camden  st.,   Camden 

town 

Little  Chapel  street,  Soho  / 
Little  Compton  street,  Soho  / 
Little  Dean  street.  Dean  st, 

Soho / 

Little    Earl    street.    Seven 

dials // 

Little  G^ove  at.,  Lisson  groye 
Little  Guilford  street,  Bruns- 
wick square 

Little  James  street,  Gray's 

inn  road 

Little  Newport  street,  Soho  / 
Little   Northampton    street, 

Goswell  road 

Littie  Portland  at.,  Gr.  Titch- 

field  street / 

Little  Pulteney  St.,  Soho  / 
Little  Queen  st..  High  Hol- 

bom    ' // 

Little  Russell  st.,Bloomsbury 
// 

Little  Saffron  hUl 

Little    St.    Andrew    street. 

Upper  St.  Martin's  la.  // 
Little  St.  Jameses  street  .  . 
Little  Sutton  street,  Clerken- 

well 

Little  Titchfield  street.  Great 

Portland  street  .  .  .  .  / 
Little  Tower  hill  .../// 
Little  Tower  st.,  Eastcheap 
Little    White    Lion    stree^ 

Seven  dials 

Little  Wild  St.,  Great  Wild 

street // 

Little  Winchester  st.,  Lon- 
don wall /// 

iivermore  road,  Dalston.  . 
iverpool  road 


28 


17 


24 


17 


Liverpool  at.,  Biahopsgate 
without /// 

,  King's  eroaa    .... 

,  Walworth 

stotion /// 

Lizard  street,  Radnor  street 

Lloyd  square,  Pentonville  . 

Lloyd's  Register  ..../// 

Loampit  hill 

Locksley  st.,  Poplar.  .  .  . 

Loddiges  road,  Hackney  .  . 

Lodge  place.  Grove  road    . 

Lodge  rd.,  Regent's  park   . 

Lofting  road,  Islington    .  . 

Lollard  street,  Lambeth  .  . 

Lombard  court,  Graeechureh 
st /// 

Lombard  road,  Battersea  . 

Lombard  street,  Fleet  st.  // 

,  Mansion  ho. .  .  .  /// 

,  Southwark  bridge  rd, 

Lome  St.,  Westminster  bridge 
rd 

Lomont  rd..  King's  rd.   .   . 

London,  Brighton  it  South 
Coast  terminus,  Victoria 

London  bridge    ....  Ill 

London  bridge  pier  .  .  /// 

London  bdg.  railway  sta.  /// 

London  Central  meat  market 
// 

London  Commercial  Sale 
rooms ,  Mincing  lane  /// 

London  Docks,  Wapping.  . 

London  Fever  Hospital,  Li- 
verpool road 

London  fields.  Hackney  .  . 

Loudon  fields  railway  sta., 
Grosvenor  place 

London  Hospital,  Mount  st. 
east,  Whitechapel  road  . 

London  lane ,  Mare  street  . 

London  ft  Northwestern  ter- 
minus, Broad  street .  .  . 

London  ft  South  Western 
terminus,  Waterloo  .  .  . 

London  street,  Greenwich  . 

,  Norfolk  sq.  .  .  .  .  • 

,  Ratcliff 

,  Tottenham  court  road 

London  wall,  Moorfields  HI 

Long  Acre,  Drury  lane  .  // 

Long  lane,  Bermondsey  .  . 

,  West  Smithfield.  .  . 

Long  street,  Kingsland  road 

Long  walk,  Bermondsey  so. 

Longcroft  rd.,  Cobourg  ra. 

Longfellow  road.  Mile  end 
road 

Longley  St.,  Southwark  .  . 

Longnor  road,  Bancroft  road  'I 


3S 


40 


■13 
.   t 
ti3 


35 

da 

37 

33 


i2 
43 
42 


43 
60 


48 


&2 

U 

30 

.  i 

n 
m 

24 
40 
27 
41 
40 

41 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


25 


B   S  O 


B   B    G 


12 


Longridge  road,  EarVsct.  rd. 

Lonsdale  road,  Bayswater  . 

J  Eilbum 

Lonsdale  square,  Bamsbarj 

Lord's  Cricket  Ground,  St. 
John's  wood  road  .... 

Lorn  road,  Brixton  road.  . 

Lorrimore  road,  Walworth 

Lorrimore  square,  Walworth 

Lorrimore  street,  Walworth 

Lothbury,  City  ..../// 

Lothian  road,  Camberwell 
New  road 

Loudoun  rd.,  St.  John^s  wd. 

Loughborough  junction  rail- 
way sta.,  Goldharbour  la. 

Loughborough  road,  Brixton 
road 

Loughborough  street,  Upper 
Kennington  lane    .... 

Love  lane,  Bow 

,  Bastcheap    ...  7/7 

-,  Wood  street.  Cheap- 
side  . 777 

Lovegroye  St.,  Old  Kent  rd. 

Loveridge  road 

Lower  Belgrave  St.,  Pimlico 
IV 

Lower  Berkeley  St.,  Portman 
square 7 

Lower  Chapman  st.,  Gannon 
street  road 

Lower  Clapton  road .... 

Lower  Bast  Smithfleld    .  . 

Lower  Grosvenor  st.,  Oros- 
yenor  street JV 

Lower  James  street,  Golden 
square 7 

Lower  John  st.,  Golden  sq.  7 

Lower  Eennigton  lane    .  . 

Lower  marsh,  Lambeth  .  . 

Lower  Phillimore  pi.,  Ken- 
sington     

Lower  rd.,  Deptford    .  .   . 

Lower  Seymour  st.,  Portman 
square 7 

Lower  Thames  street .  777 

Lower  Whiteoross  street    . 

Lower  WUliam  st..  High 
street,  Portland  town  .  . 

Lowndes  square,  Belgrave 
square 

Lowndes  st.,  Belgrave  sq. . 

Lowth  rd.,  Camberwell  .  . 

Luard  street,  Caledonian  rd. 

Lucas  road,  Wal worth    .  . 

Lucas  street,  Commercial 
road  east 

,  Botherhithe 

Lucey  rd.,  Bermondsey   .  . 

Lueretia  street,  Lambeth    . 

Baboikkb's  London.   15th 


63 


15 


31 


3t 


43 


55 

58 
.  45 


Ludgate  circus 77 

Ludgate  hill,  St.Paurs  church 

yard 77 

Ludgate  hill  railway  station. 

New  Bridge  street  .  .  .77 
Luke  street,  Finsbury  .  .  . 

,  Mile  end  New  town 

Lumley  st.,  Oxford  st.  .  .7 
Lupus  street,  Pimlico  .  .  . 
Lurlinegds.,  Battersea .  .  . 
Lyall  pi..  Baton  sq.,  Pimlico 
Lyall  road,  Roman  rd.,  Bow 
Lyall  St.,  Eaton  pi.,  Pimlico 
Lyceum  theatre.  Strand  77 
Lyme  street,  Camden  town 
Lymington  rd.,  Finchley  rd. 
Lyndhurst  gardens^ampst. 
Lyndhurst  grove,  Peckham 
Lyndhurst  road,  Uampstead 
Lynton  rd.,  Bermondsey .  . 
Lyon  street,  Caledon.  road . 

Lyric  theatre 7 

Lyste  St.,  Bethnal  Green .  . 

Macclesfield  st..  City  rd. .  . 

Macclesfield  street,  Soho  .  7 

Macduff  rd.,  Battersea  .  .  . 

Maddoz  street.  Begent  st.  7 

Magdalen  st^  Bermondsey  . 

Maida  hill,  Edgware  road  . 

Maidavale,  E^wareroad  . 

Maiden  lane,  Garlick  hill  777 

,  Covent  garden  .  .  77 

Maiden  lane  station   .... 

Maidenhead  ct.,  Aldersgate 
street 777 

Maidstone  St..  Hackney  road 

Maitland  park  road.  Haver- 
stock  hiU 

Maitland  pk.  villas.  Haver- 
stock  hm 

Maiden  road,  Kentish  town 

Mall,  The,  Kensington.  .  . 

— ,  St.  James's 

Malmesbury  rd..  Bow  .   .   . 

Malt  St.,  Old  Kent  rd.  .   .  . 

Malta  St.,  Goswell  road  .  . 

Maltby  street,  Bermondsey  . 

Malvern  road,  Dalston.   .   . 

,  Kilbum  park  .... 

Manchester  rd.,  Isle  of  Dogs 

Manchester  square,  Duke 
street,  Oxford  st.    ...  7 

Mandiester  st,  Gray's  inn  rd. 

,  Manchester  square   7 

Manford  pL,  Kennington.   . 

Mann  St.,  Walworth .... 

Manor  lane,  Botherhithe  .   . 

Manor  place,  Amhurst  road. 
Hackney 

,  Walworth  road  .  .  . 


35 

35 

35 
U 

47 
19 


22 

le 

17 


45 


21 


2T 


23 

12 


19 


64 


2 


46 


32 


a5 

65 
19 
20 


49 


80 
42 
63 


34 


Edit. 


ni 


26 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B  K  o 


B   S  O 


Manor  road,  Blao  Anchor  rd, 

,  Wells  street    .  . 

Manor  street,  Chelsea  . 

,  Old  Kent  road.  . 

Manresa  rd.,  Ohelsea  .  .  . 
Mansell  st.,  Aldgate  High  si 
III 
Mansfield  pi.,  Kentish  town 
Mansfield  st.,  Kingsland  rd. 

,  Portland  pi. ....  / 

Mansford  st.,  Bethnal green 
Mansion  House  .  .  .  .  /// 
Mansion  Honse  place   .  Ill 

station /// 

street,      Kennington 

park  road  lane 

Mape  St.,  Bethnal  green  rd. 
Mapes  lane ,  Edgware  road 
Maplin  street,  Mile  end  road 

Marble  Arch / 

Marchmon  t  st.  ,BrTin8  wick  sq. 
Marcia  rd.,  Old  Kent  rd.  . 
Mare  street.  Hackney  .  .  . 
Margaret  st..  Cavendish  sq.  I 

,  Wells  street    .... 

,  Wilmington    square 

Margaretta  terrace.  Chelsea 
Maria  street,  Kingsland  road 
Marigold  street,  Bermondsey 
Mark  lane,  Fenchurch  St.  Ill 
Mark  lane  station  ,  ,  ,  III 
Mark  street,  Finsbury  .  .  . 
Market  street,  Bermondsey 

,  Caledonian  rd.  .  *   . 

,  Bdgware  road    .  .   . 

,  Mayfair 

,  Soho / 

Markham  square,  Chelsea . 
Markham  street,  Chelsea  . 
Marlborough  hill,  St.  John's 

wood 

Marlborough     House ,    Pall 

mall IV 

Marlborough  HouseChapel  IV 
Marlboroaghpl.,St.John'8wd. 

,  Westboume  park  .  . 

Marlborough  road,  Chelsea 

,  Dalston 

,  Old  Kent  rd 

,  St.  John's  wood.   .  . 

Marlborough  street.  Black- 
friars  road 

Marloes  road,  Kensington  . 
Marmont  road,  Peckham  . 
Maroon  st.,Limehouse fields 
Marquess  road,  Canonbury 
Marquis  road,  Camden  town 
Marsdon  St.,  Maitland  pk.  . 
Marshall  street,  Golden  sq. 

,  Southwark 

Marsham  8t.,Westminster/F 


52 


m 


\i 


24 


23 


41 


47 


Martin's  la..  Cannon  st.  /// 
Mary  street,  Arlington  square 

,  Kingsland  road  .   .  . 

Marylands  road,  Harrow  rd. 
Marylebone  High  street  .  . 

Marylebone  lane / 

Marylebone  road 

Marylebone  station    .... 
Marylebone  street   ....  7 
Marylebone  workho.,  Mary- 
lebone road / 

Mason  street.  Old  Kent  road 
Matilda  st.,  Caledonian  rd. . 

,  Thornhill  square  .   . 

Maude  grove,  Fulham  road 
Maude  road,  Peckham  road 
Mawbey  st..  South  Lambeth 
Maxwell  road,  Fulham  .  . 
Maygrove  road,  Edgware  rd. 
Mayville  street,  Kingsland 
Mase  Pond,  Borough  .  .  . 
Mead  street,  Shoreditch  .  . 
Meadow  rd.,  S.  Lambeth  . 
Mecklenburgh  square,  Gray's 

inn  road 

Medburn  street,  Somers  tn. 
Median  road,  Clapton  .  .  . 
Medieal  Examination  Hall  II 
Medway  road,  Roman  road 
Medway  st.,  Westminster  IV 
Meetinghouse  la.,  Peckham 
Melbourne  square,Brizton  rd* 
Melbury  ter.,  Harewood  sq. 
Melton  street,  Euston  square 

Menotti  street 

Mercer  street.  Long  acre  II 
Meredith  street,  Clerkenwell 
Merrow  St.,  Walworth  .  .  . 
Methley  st..  Milverton  street 
Methodiat  Church  ho.  .  /F 
Metropolitan  Cattle  market 
Metropolitan  District  rail- 
way. Mansion  house  III 
Metropolitan  Meat  it  Poultry 
market,  Smithfield.  .  // 
Meymoth  st.,  Blackfriars  rd. 
Michael's  grove,  Brompton 
Middle  Temple  lane  .  .  II 
Middlesex  Hospital,  Charles 
street,  Goodge  street  .  / 
Middlesex  st.,  Somers  town 

,  Whitechapel  .  .  Ill 

Middleton  road,  Holloway 

,  Kingsland 

Midland  road,  Euston  rd.  . 
Midland  terminus,  St.  Pan- 
eras,  Euston  road  .... 
Mildmay  park,  Stoke  Kew- 

ington 

Mildmay  grove  north  d^  south, 
Stoke  Newington    .... 


4 
20 
19 
16 
16 
20 

20 


41 


44 
27 
7 


42 


48 


30 


30 


26 
51 


36 


29 


25 


34 


34 
13 
35 

24 

47 


SQUAEBS,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


27 


BEG 


B   B  O 


Mildmay  rd^Stoke  If  ewington 
Mildmay  street,  Stoke  l^ew- 

ingtoB 

Mile  end  road 

Miles  street,  Sonth  Lambeth 
Milford  lane,  Strand  .  .  // 
MUk  street,  Cheapside  /// 
Mill  lane,  Hampstead  .  .  . 
Mill  row,  Kingsland  road  . 
MUl  street,  Dockhead  .  .  . 

,  Hanover  sq.    .  .  .  / 

Mill  yard,  Leman  street .  . 
Millard  road,  Back  road.  . 
Millbank,  Westminster  lY 
Mill  hUl  pi.,  Welbeck  st.  / 
Millman  street,  Bedford  row 
Millman's  row.  King's  road 

Millwall,  Poplar 

Millwall  Docks 

MillwaU  (Dock  railway  sta- 
tion, Olengall  road    .  .  . 
Millwall  junction  railway  sta. 

Millwall  pier 

Milner  square,  Islington  .  . 
Milner  street,  Chelsea  .  .  . 

,  Islington 

Milton  road.  Old  Ford  road 
Milton  St.,  Gripplegate  III 

,  Finsbnry 

Mina  road.  Old  Kent  road 
Mincing  la. ,Fenchtirch  st./i/ 
Minerva  street,  Hackney  rd. 

Minories,  City /// 

Mint  street.  Borough    .  .   . 

,  Tower  hiU  .  .  .  /// 

Mintem  street,  Hoxton  .  . 
Minto  street,  Bermondsey  . 
Mitre  court,  Cheapside  /// 
Mitre  street,  Aldgate  .  Ill 
Modbary  ter.,  Queen's  eres. 
Molyneux  st.,  Bryanston  sq. 
Monck  St.,  Westminster  lY 
Moneyer  street,  Hoxton  .  . 
Monkwell  st.,  Cripplegate/// 
Monmouth  road,  Bayswater 
Monnow  rd.,  Bouthwark.  . 
Montagu  mews  north,  Mon- 
tagu square 

Montagu  pi.,  Montagu  sq.  1 

Montagu  square / 

Montagu  street.  Upper  Ber- 
keley street I 

Montague  close,  Boro'  .  .  . 
Montague  Ho.,  Whitehall  lY 

,  Portman  sq / 

Montague  mansions  ,  .  ,11 
Montague  pi., Bedfordsq.  /,// 
Montague  road,  Dalston  .  . 
Montague  St.,  Russell  sq.  // 
Monteith  rd..  Old  Ford  road 
Montpelier  pi.,  Brompton  . 


41 


41 


43 


17 


44 


46 


45 


Montpelier  road,  Kentish  tn. 

Montpelier  row,  Brompton 

Montpelier  sq.,  Brompton . 

Montpelier  St.,  Brompton  . 

,  Walworth 

Monument  station.   .  .  /// 

Monument  sq..  Fish  street 
hUl /// 

Moody  road,  Mile  End  rd. 

Moor  la.,  Cripplegate  .  /// 

Moor  St.,  Crown  st.,  Soho  / 

Moore  street,  Chelsea  .  .  . 

Moore  park  road,  Fulham 

Moorflelds  ......./// 

Moorgate  railway  station   . 

Moorgate  street.  City    .  /// 

Morecambe  st.,  Walworth  . 

Moreland  st.,  City  road  .   . 

Moreton  place,  Moreton  st. 

Moreton  st. ,  Vauxhall  bridge 
road 

Moreton  ter..  South  Kensgt. 

Morgan  street.  Mile  end  rd. 

Morgan's  lane,  Tooley  st.  . 

Morning  lane.  Hackney  .   . 

Momington  crescent,  Hamp- 
stead road 

Mornington  road.  Bow  road 

,  Regent's  pk 

Morpeth  road.,  victoria  pk. 

Morpeth  street,Bethnal  green 

Morpeth  ter.,  Victoria  st.  lY 

Morris  road,  Bromley  .  .  . 

Morshead  road 

Mortimer  crescent,  Kilbum 

Mortimer  rd.,  Kingsland .  . 

,  Kilbum 

Mortimer  st.,  Regent  st. .  / 

Morton  rd.,  Islington    .   .  . 

Morville  street.  Bow    .   .  . 

Morwell  St.,  Bedford  sq.    / 

Moscow  road,  Bayswater  .  . 

Mostyn  road,  Stockwell  .   . 

,  Bow 

Motcomb  street,  Belgrade  sq. 

Mount  Pleasant,  Farringdon 
rd 

Mount  row,  Berkeley  sq.   / 

Mount  street,  Berkeley  sq.  / 

,  Bethnal  green.  .  .   . 

,  Whitechapel   .... 

Mountford  road,  ITorfolk  rd., 
Dalston 

Mowlem  st.,  Bethnal  Green 

Munster  square,  Regent's  pk. 

Muriel  St.,  Copenhagen  st. . 

Murray  street,  Camden  sq. 

,  New  North  rd.  .  .   . 

Museum  st.,  Bloomsbury  // 

Musgrare  rd.,  New  Cross   . 

Myddelton  sq.,  Clerkenwell 

in* 


21 


56 


40 


13 
13 


51 


43 
43 


38 


40 
27 


44 
40 


37 
21 


21 
21 


42 


21 


24 


64 


7 
S6£ 


64 


17 


48 


19 

18 


52 


28 


66 


28 


LIST  OF  THE  PEINOIPAL  STBBBTS, 


B  S  O 


B   K  Q 


Myddelton  at..  Clor  ken  well 
Mylne  street,  Glaremont  aq. 
Myrdle  st.,Oommerei»l  rd.  e&. 
Myrtle  street,  Dalston  .  .  . 
,  Hozton 

Vailoar  St.,  Oaledonian  rd. 
Napier  street,  Hoxton .  .  . 
Narrow  street,  Batellff  cross 
Nassau    street,     Hiddlesex 

hospital / 

Nassau  street,  Soho  .  .  .  / 
National  Oonseryat.  Club  lY 
National  Gallery  .  .  .  .  / 
National  Gallery  of  British 

Art 

National  Portrait  Gallery  / 
National  Liberal  Club  .  IV 
Natural   History    Museum, 

Cromwell  road 

Naval  and  MiUtary  Club  IV 
Navarino  road,  Dalston  .  . 
Naylor^s  yard.  Silver  street 
Neal  St.,  Lone  acre  .... 
Neate  street,  Cobourg  road, 

Old  Kent  road 

Nelson  sq.,  Blackfriars  road 
Nelson  street,  Bethnal  green 

,  Commercial  rd.  ea. , 

,  Deptford 

,  Greenwich 

,  Wyndham  road .  .   , 

Neptune  street,  Botherhithe 

,  South  Lambeth  .  .  . 

Netherwood  street,  Kilbum 
Netley  st.,  Hampstead  road 
Neville  street,  Onslow  sq. 

,  Vauxhall 

New  Bond  st.,  Oxford  st.  / 
New  Bridge  st. ,  Blackfriars  II 
New  Broad  st,  London  wall 
/// 
New  Burlington  house,  Pic- 

cadUly / 

New  Burlington  street.  Re- 
gent street    / 

New  Cavendish  street,  Port- 
land place / 

New  Church rd.,Camberwell 

Wells  street     .... 

New  Church  st. ,  Bermondsey 
New  College  Chapel .... 
New  Compton  st.,  Soho  7.  II 
New  Cross  railway  station 
New  Cross  road,  Deptford  . 
New  Cut,  Lambeth  .... 
New  Gloucester  st.,  Hoxton 
New  Gravel  lane,  Shadwell 
New  Inn,  Strand  ....// 

New  Kent  road 

New  King  street,  Deptford 


3(ni 


30 


4& 


62 


&L 


53 


44 


26 


42 


27 


New  Kin«;^8  road,  Fulham  . 

New  Nichol  St.,  Shoreditch. 

New  North  road,  Hoxton  . 

New  North  St.,  Red  Lion  sq. 

New  Ormond  st..  Queen  sq. 

New  Oxford  street  .  .  .  // 

New  Palace  yard,  West- 
minster    IV 

New  Quebec  street.  Port- 
man  square / 

New  road,  Rotherhithe  .  . 

,  Wandsworth  rd.    .   . 

,  Whitechapel  road.  . 

New  sq.,  Lincoln's  inn .  II 

New  St.,  Bishopsgate  st   /// 

,  Borough  road  .  .  . 

,  Brompton 

,  Covent  garden   .  .// 

,  Dorset  square.  .  .  . 

,  Golden  square   .  .  / 

,  Kennington  pk.  rd.  . 

,  New  rd.,Whitechapel 

,  Portland  town   .   .  . 

,  Vincent  square  .   .  . 

New  Theatre // 

New  TothUl  street,  West- 
minster   IV 

New  Weston  st.,  Bermondsey 

Newbum  st.,  Vauxhall    .   . 

Newcastle  street,Farringdon 
street // 

,  Whitechapel   .... 

Newcomen  street.  Borough 

Newgate  st.,  City   .  //,  /// 

Newington  butts 

Newington  causeway    .  .  . 

Newington  green  it  road.  . 

Newman  street,  Oxford  st.  / 

Newnham  st^Edgware  road 

Newton  rd.,  westboume  gro. 

Newton  street,  Cavendish  St. 

.  High  Holbom.  .  .// 

Nicholas  la. ,  Lombard  st.  /// 

Nicholas  street,  Hoxton  .  . 

,  Mile  end  road    .  .  . 

Nichols  row,  Bethnal  gm. 

Nichols  square.  Hackney  rd. 

Nightingale  lane,  St.  Kathe- 
rine''s  docks 

NUa  St.,  Deptford 

NUe  St.,  Deptford 

,  Hoxton 

,  Shepherdess  walk    . 

Nine  Elms  lane.  Vauxhall 

Nine  Elms  pier,NineElms  la. 

Nine  Elms  station 

Noble  street,  Cheapside  III 

,  Spafields 

Noel  street,  Islington  .  .  . 

Noel  street,  Soho  .  .  .  .  / 

Norfolk  cres.,  Oxford  sq..  . 


27 


51 
3i 

,33 
23 


53 
23 


U 


la 


27 


25 


2& 
41 


39 


4t 


43 


43 


95 
47 
37 

S& 

f 

i    , 

24 
IB 
7 

31 ' 
43 
! 
53 


33 


4B 


43 

26 
26 
;26 


m 


23 
,  1&' 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


29 


B  S  O 


B   S  O 


Korfolk  road,  Dklitoa  Jkiifi 

,  lalington  ..,»,. 

,  St.  JoWf  wd, .... 

I7orfolk  aq.f  SoMex  garden^ 
Norfolk  street,  Globe  ro^A 

,  Park  lane.  .  .   .  .  / 

,  Strand   ..,.,,// 

Norman  road,  B(tw  .  .  ,  . 
Norman  road,  Greenwich  , 
Norman  street,  CLeUeh  .  . 
Norman*8baildg8,,  dt-  Lnke'a 
North  Bank,  Begcni'a  park 
North  End  road,  Falh^m  , 
North  Greenwich  ralL  sta. . 
North  row,  GroBTenor  flq*  / 
North  street,  LieaoD  gto.    / 

,  Manchester  sq.  »  ,  / 

,  Hare  street .   .  *  *  . 

,  Pentonvllle  .  ,  ,  .    . 

,  Sloane  street  *  *  .  . 

,  Smith  sq IV 

North  Andley  st.,  Oxford  M, 
NorthWharf  rd.  ,Fad  diagton 
Northampton  rd.,  Bowling 

green  la 

Northampton  square,  Oler- 

kenwell 

Northampton   street,     6o«- 

well  road 

,  Islington  ...... 

Northport  street,  New^orth 

road    .......... 

Northumberland  A.11ey,  Feu- 

chnrch  street    ...... 

Northumberland       iLTemD«^ 

Trafalgar  square .   .   .  /T 
Northumberland  pJnee.  Ar- 

tesian  road,  Bayswat^r    . 
Northumberland  s  treet ,  £S  ary- 

lebone     .....    .   ,  .  I 

,  Strand.  ,  ....  IT 

Northwick  ter.,  Hilda  hill 
Notting  hill  High  Kt^eet  . 
Notting  hill  gate  FitatJon  .  . 
Nottingham  pi.,  M&rylcjbnae 
Nottingham  St., Mary  ieboii«  / 
Nutford  place,  Edgware  rd. 

Oakden  st.,KennlTi^tan  road 
Oakley  road,  SoittLgsLt^  rd. 
Oakley  square,  St.  Fftncras 
Oakley  street,  Ghe!siia     .    . 

,  Lambeth 

Oat  lane,  Wood  nt.  .  .  /// 
Ocean  street,  Stepoo;  .  .  . 
Ockendon  road,  Easee  road 
Office  of  Works  A  Pablic 
buildings,  WhileLill  IF 
OfTord  rd.,  Oaledrmi&n  rq^d 
OldBailey ,  Newga  t  £i  p  tre  e  U/ 
Old  Bethnal  GreeD  road .    . 


60 


43 


12 


a 


Old  Bond  st.,  Piccadilly  / 
Old  Broad  street.  Thread- 
needle  street  ....  /// 
Old  Brompton  road  .... 
Old  Burlington  street  .  .  / 
Old  Castle  st.,  Whitechapel 
Old  Cavendish  street  .  .  / 
Old  Change,  Cheapside  JIJ 
Old  Church  road,  Commer- 
cial road  east 

Old  Compton  street,  Soho  / 
Old  Ford  railway   station. 

Old  Ford  road 

Old  Ford  railway  station, 

Cobom  road 

Old  Ford  road.  Bow    .   .  . 
Old  Gravel  lane,  Wapping 
Old  Jewry,  City ..../// 

Old  Kent  road    ...... 

Old  Kent  rd.  railway  sta., 
Peckham  new  town  .  .   . 
Old  Montague  street,  White- 
chapel  

Old  Nichol  St.,  Shoreditch 
Old    Palace    yard,    West- 
minster   JV 

Old  Pye  St.,  Westminster  IV 
Old    Quebec    street,    Port- 
man  square / 

Old  Queen  st.,  Westminster 
IV 
Old  Rochester  row  .  .  IV 
Old  square,  Lincoln*s  inn  II 
Old  street.  St.  Luke's  .  .  . 
Old  Swan  pier  .  .  .  ,  III 
Omario  street,  London  road 
Onslow  crescent,  Onslow  sq. 
Onslow  square.  South  Ken- 
sington   

Onslow  vils.,  Onslow  sq.  . 
Opal  street,  Kennington .  . 
Orange  street.  Borough   .   . 

,  Leicester  square  /,  // 

,  Red  Lion  sq.    .  .  .// 

Orb  street,  Walworth  .  .  . 
Orchard  place,  Blackwall  . 
Orchard  street ,  Essex  road 

,  Portman  sq.    ...  J 

,  Westminster  .   .    IV 

Ordnance  road.,  St.  John'^s 

wood 

Orleston  rd..  Hollo  way  .  . 
Oriel  road,  Homerton  .  .  . 
Oriental  club,  Hanover  sq.  / 
Orme  square,  Bayswater  rd. 
Ormonde  ter..  Primrose  hill 
Orsett  street,  Yauzhall  st. 
Orsett  ter.,  Hyde  park    .  . 

Orwell  road.  Bow 

Osbom  pi.,  Whitechapel  /// 
Oseney  cres.,  Kentish  town 


57 


A8 


23 
43 


23 

47 


50  I 
27 


50 


41 
51 


48 


40 


25 
25 

19 

25 
21 
31 
40 
42 
83 


13 


26 
32 


37 


19 
25 


11 
33 
57 

.  5 

16 

64 
25 


29 


30 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B  B  o 


B   B  O 


28 


36 


Osnabargh  at.,  Begent*a  pk.  24 
Osprey  street,  Botherhithe 
Ossery  road,  Old  Kent  road 
OsaingtoB  street,  Bayswater 
Ossulston  St.,  Somers  town 
Oswald  St.,  Vaazhall  .  .  . 
Oswin  St.,  Kewington  .  .  . 
Otto  St.,  Bennington  .  .  . 
Oatram  St.,  Copenhagen  st. 
Oval,  Hackney  road.  .  .  . 

— ,  Bennington 

Oval  pi.,  South  Lambeth  . 
Ovington  square,  Brompton 
Ovington  street.  Chelsea  . 
Owen  street,  Bing*s  road  . 

,  St.  John  St.  road  .   . 

Owen*s  row,  St.  John  st.  rd. 
Ozendon  St.,  Haymarket  / 
Oxford     mansions ,    Oxford 

street •  .  .  .  / 

Oxford  road,  Islington    .  . 

,  Bilbum  park .... 

Oxford  square,  Ujde  park  . 

Oxford  street / 

,  Marlborough  rd. .  .  . 

Oxford  ter.,  Edgware  road. 
Oxford  ft  Camb.  Club,  Pall 

mall lY 

Paokington  street,  Islington 

Paddington  green 

Paddington  railway  station 
Paddington  recreation  ground 
Paddington  st.,  Harylebone  / 
Page  street,  Westminster  . 
Pakenham  styEing^s  Cross  rd. 
Palace  court,  Bayswater.  . 
Palace  gardens,  Kensington 
Palace  gate,  Bensington .  . 
Palace  street,  Pimlico  .  lY 
Palace  music-hall   .  .  .  .  / 

Pall  Mall lY 

Pall  Mall  East  ,  .  ,  I^  lY 
Palm  street,  Grove  road  . 
Palmer  place,  Hollo  way  rd. 
Palmerston  road,  Kilburn  . 
Palmerston  terrace.  Lower 

Wandsworth  road .... 
Pancras  lane,  Queen  st.  /// 
Panton  street,  Haymarket  / 
Panyer   alley.   Paternoster 

row /// 

Paradise  road,  Glapham  rd. 
Paradise  street,  Chelsea .  . 

,  Finsburr 

,  Gray*s  inn  road    .   , 

,  Lambeth 

,  Marylebone  .  .   .  .  / 

,  Rotherhithe 

Aragon  road,  Hackney  .  . 

jrcel  Post  Central  Office . 


32 


13 


26 


26 


44 


13 


26 


Paris  street,  Lambeth  .  lY 
Parish  street,  Toolejst..  . 
Park  crescent,  Porttand  pi. 

,  Stockwell 

mews     west,    Maryle 

bone  road  ........ 

Park  grove.  Lower  Wands- 
worth road 

Park  lane,  Dorset  square  . 

,  Piccadilly .  .  .  /,  /F 

Park  pi.,  St.  James*s  st.  lY 
Park  pi.  villas,  Paddington 
Park  road.  Bridge  road  .   . 

,  Chelsea 

,  Haverstoek  hill.  .  . 

,  Begent*s  park    .  .  . 

Park  side,  Knightsbridge  . 
Park  sq.  east,  Begent's  pk. 

west,  Begent's  park  . 

Park  St.,  Borough  market 
—  — ,  Camden  town.  .   .  . 

,  Dorset  square    ,   .  . 

,  Grosvenor  sq..  .  .  / 

,  Limehouse 

Park  village   east  ft  west, 

BegenVs  park 

Park  walk,  Chelsea  .  .  . 
Parker  street,  Drury  la.  // 
Parkholme  road,  Dalston  . 
Parliament,  Houses  of .  lY 
Parliament  square.  .  .  lY 
Parliament  street  .  »  ,  lY 
Parmiter  pi..  Hackney  road 
Pamell  road,  Tredegar  road 
Parr  street,  Uew  North  road 
Parson''s  green,  Fulham  .  . 
Pasley  st.,  Walworth  .  .  . 
Paternoster  row,  St.  Paulas 
Patriot  sq.,  Cambridge  rd. 
Patshull  road,  Kentish  tn. 
Paul  street,  Finsbury  .  .  . 
Paulet  road,  Camberwell  . 
Paul*s  alley,  Paternoster  rw. 
Paulton  square,  Chelsea .  . 
Pavilion  road,  Chelsea  .  . 
Payne  St.,  Copenhagen  st. . 
Peabody  buildings  .  .  /// 
Peacock  st.  ,l^ewington  butts 
Pear  Tree  st.,  Goswell  rd. 
Pearson  st.,  Kingsland  road 
Peckham  gro.,  Camberwell 
Peckham  park.  Hill  street 
Peckham  park  road .... 
Peckham  rye  stat.,  Bye  la. 
Peckwater  st.,  Kentish  tn. 
Peel  road,  Bilbxurn  park  . 
Peel  street,  Bensington  .  . 
Peerless  street,  Bath  street 
Pekin  street,  Poplar .... 
Pelham  crescent,  Brompton 
Pelham  street,  Brompton   . 


23 


29 


46 


29 
41 

1!4 


3a 


24 


13 


Ifi 


.   1& 
.    10 


30 


24i 

ao 
It 

,  62 


10 


M. 


2.^ 
33 
26 


3 
3& 


81 


30 


33 


47 
47 

4a 


40 


8QUABES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


31 


B  S  O 


B   B  G 


PAlhui  St.,  MUe  end  Kew  tn. 
Pembridge    gardens ,    I(igh 

street.  Kotting  hill   .  .  . 
Pembridge  place,  Bayswater 
Pembridge   sq.,  Bayswater 
Pembridge     Villas ,     West- 
bourne  grove  

Pembroke    gardens.    Ken 

sington 

Pembroke  mews,  Chapel  st. 
Pembroke  road,  Kensington 

,  Kilborn  pk 

Pembroke  sq.,  Kensington 
Pembroke  st.,  Bingfield  st. 
Pembnry  groye,  Claptrto.  . 
Pembury  road,  Clapton  .  . 
Pennington  St.,  St.  Qeorge's 

east 

Penrose  st.,  Walworth  rd. 
Penshnrst  rd.,  8th.  Hackney 
Penton   place,    Kennington 

park  road 

,'  Pentonyille  rd.  .  .  . 

Penton  street,  Pentonyille 

Pentonyille  road 

Penywem  road,  EarVs  ct. . 

People*s  Palace 

Pepys  road,  Vew  Cross  rd. 
Percival  street.  Clerkenwell 
Percy  road,  Kllbnrn  park  . 
Percy  st.,  Tottenham  ct.  rd.  / 
Perrymead  st.,  Fnlham  .  . 
Peter     street,     Sonthwark 

bridge  road 

,  Soho / 

Petherton  road,  Highbury  . 
Phelp  St.,  Walworth  .  .  . 
Phentf  street,  Chelsea  .  .  . 
PhUip  la.,  London  waU  /// 
Philip  St.,  Back  Church  la. 
Phillunore  pi.,  Kensington 
Phillimore  Mr.,  Kensington 

road 

Phillip  street,  Qneen*s  rd. 
Phillippst.,  Kingsland  road 
Philpot    lane ,     Fenchurch 

street /// 

Philpot  street.  Commercial 

road  east 

Phosnix  place,  Mt.  Pleasant 
Phoenix  street,  Soho    .  .  / 

,  Somers  town  .... 

Piazza,  Covent  garden  .  // 

Piccadilly IT 

Piccadilly  circus  .  .  .  .  / 
Piccadilly  place,  Piccadilly 
Pickering  place,  Bayswater 
Pickle  Herring  st. ,  Tooley  st. 
Pigott  St. ,  Eastlndia  dock  rd. 
Pilgrim  St.,  Ludgate  hiU  // 
Pimlico  pier,  Orosyenor  rd. 


54 


m 


4S 


20 


28 


Pimlico  road 

Pinchin  st..  Commercial  rd. 
Pitfleld  street,  Hoxton  .  . 
Pitt  street,  Bethnal  green 
,  Commercial  rd.,  Cam- 

berwell 

,  Fitsroy  sq / 

Piatt  street,  Somers  town 
Playhouse  theatre  .  .  .  7F 
Playhouse  yard.  Water  lane 
Plough  street,  Whitechapel 
Pocock  St.,  Blackfriars  rd. 
Poet*s  road,  Highbury.  .  . 
Poland  street,  Oxford  st.  / 
Pollen  street,  Hanover  sq.  / 
Pomeroy  St.,  Old  Kent  rd. 
Pond  place,  Chelsea .... 
Ponsonby  street,  Millbank 
Pont  street,  Belgrave  square 
Poole  St.,  Kew  Korth  road 
Popham  rd.,  Kew  Korth  rd. 
Poplar  High  street  .... 
Poplar      railway      station, 

Brunswick  street  .... 
Poplar  railway  station.  East 

India  dock  road 

Porchester  road,  Bayswater 
Porchester  sq.,  Bishop's  rd. 
Porchester  St.,  Edgware  rd. 
Porchester  ter.,  Edgware  rd. 
Porson  street.  Nine  elms 
Porteus  road,  Paddington 
Porthall  rd.,  KUbum  pk.  . 
Portland  pi..  Park  cresc.  / 
Portland  street,  Commercial 

road  east 

Portland  St.,  Soho.  .  .  .  / 

,  Walworth 

Portman  Epis.  Chapel .  .  / 

Portman  rooms / 

Portman  square / 

Portman  street,  Oxford  st.  / 
Portobello  road,  Kotting  hi. 
Portpool  lane,   Gray^s   inn 

road // 

Portsdown  road,  Haidavale 
Portsea  pi.,  Connaught  sq. 
Portsmouth  street,  Lincoln^s 

inn  fields // 

Portugal  St.,  Lincoln*s  inn  // 
Pott  St.,  Bethnal  green  road 
Potter*s  fields,  Tooley  street 
Poultry,  Cheapside  .  .  /// 
Powell  street.  King  sq.  .  . 
Powis  gardens ,  Powis  sq. 
Powis  sq.,  Westboume  pk. 
Pownhall  road.  Dais  ton  .  . 
Praed  st.,  Paddington  .  .  . 
Pratt  street,  Camden  town 
Prebend  St.,  Camden  town 
,  New  North  rd.  .  .   , 


47 


3& 

r 

IT 

23 
33 


47 


27 


37 


4S 


13 

t 
I 

m 

67 

8 
S 
15 

7 

12 

24 

55 


b6 
2& 


23 


47 


20 
20 
19 
19 

a 

la 

3! 
31 

\m 

4 
3 


62 


4C 


32 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINOIPAL  STBEETS, 


B  R   G 


B  R   O 


/// 


President  at.,  King  sq..  .  . 
Preaton^s  road.  Poplar.  .  . 
Primrose  hill,  Begent's  pk. 
Primrose  hill  road,  Hamp- 

stead 

Prince  Consort  rd.,  Bromp- 

ton 

Prince  of  Wales's  crescent, 

Camden  town 

Prince  of  Wales  rd. ,  Battersea 

,  Kentish  town  .... 

Prince    of    Wales    terrace, 

Kensington 

Prince  of  Wales  theatre  .  / 
Prince's  grdns.^.Kensington 
Prince's  gate,  Hyde  park.  . 
Princes    road,    Bermondsey 

,  Lambeth  walk   .  .   . 

Princes  square,  Bayswater . 
Princes  street.  Cavendish  sq. 


,  Hanover  sq. 

,  Lothbury  . 

,  Spitalfields 

,  Westminster   .  .    IV 

,  Wilson  St.,  Finsbury 

Princess  rd.,   Kilbnm  park 

,  Regent's  park  .... 

Princess  street,  Edgware  rd. 
Princess's    theatre.     Castle 

street,  Oxford  street .  .  / 
Princeton  St.,  Bedford  rd.  // 
Printing  ho.  sq..  Water  la. 
Priory  grove,  W.  Brompton 
Priory  park  road,  Kilburn 
Priory  rd.,  Wandsworth  rd. 
Provost  rd.,  Haverstock  hi. 
Provost  street.  City  road.  . 
Prudential  Assurance  .  .// 
Pudding  lane,  Eastcheap.  . 
Pulteney  St.,  Bamsbury  rd. 
Punderson  gardens,  Bethnal 

green  road    

Pyrland     road,      Highbury 

New  park 

Quadrant  road,  Islington.  . 
Quaker  street,  Spitalfields  . 
Queen  sq.,  Bloomsbury  .II 
Queen  street,  Camden  tn.  . 

,  Cheapside.   .   .   .  /// 

,  Edgware  road.  .   .   . 

,  Mayfair 

,  Seven  dials  .,..// 

,  Soho / 

Queen  street  place,   Upper 

Thames  street 

Queen  Anne  street.  Caven- 
dish square / 

Queen  Anne's   gate,   West- 
minster     IV 


43 


48 


19 


29 


Queen     Bliaabeth     street, 

Horselydown 

Queen  Margarefs  grove, 
Stoke  Newington  .... 

,neen   Victoria  street    /// 

[neen^fl  cre^. ^  Haverstock  hi. 

^iiflDn'ri  g&rdens,  Bayswater 

;nfleD^«  gate,  Kensington  rd. 

;ueen>  g&t«  gardens    .  .   . 

;tLeBn'ij  g&te  place     «... 

;tLeeD'^e  gELtij  terrace     .  .  . 

^ueen'i  Hall.  Langhampl.  / 

•QceD'a  H&Ld  St.,  Essex  rd. 

jueeik'd  road,  Bayswater    . 

,  Chelsea 

,  Dalston 

railway  station,  Peck- 


,  Peckham 

,  St.  John's  wood  .  .  . 

,  Wandsworth  rd.    .  . 

Queen's  ter.,  St.  John's  wd. 

Queen's  theatre / 

Queensborough  ter.,  Bays- 
water  

Queensbury  St.,  Islington  . 
Quex  road,  Kilburn  .... 

Radnor  pL,  Gloucester  sq. 

Radnor  st.,  Bath  St.,  City  rd. 

,  Chelsea 

,  Sth.  Lambeth  .... 

Raglan  street,  Kentish  tn. 

Rahere  street,  Goswell  rd. 

Railway  street,  Tork  road, 
King's  cross 

Raine  St.,  Wapping  .... 

Ralph  St.,  Falmouth  road  . 

Ramilies  st,  Oxford  st.  .  / 

Randall  street,  Bridge  road, 
Battersea 

Randolph  cresc,  Mai  da  vale 

Randolph  grdns.,  Kilburn  pk. 

Randolph  road ,  Maida  hill 

Ranelagh  grove,  Pimlico    . 

Ranelagh  rd.,  Thames  bank 

Rathbone  pi.,  Oxford  st.  / 

Raven  row,  Whitechapel  rd. 

Ravenscroft  st..  Hackney  rd. 

Ravensdon  street,  Kenning- 
ton  park  road 

Rawlings  St.,   Cadogan  st. 

Rawstome  street,  St.  John 
street  road 

Ray  street,  Clerkenwell .  . 

Raymond  build. , Gray's  inn// 

Raymouth  road,  Southwark 
park  road 

Record  Offlce(Public),  Chan- 
cery lane // 

Rectory  grove,  Clapham .  . 


45 


5  I 
5 
5 
24 


17 


61 
51 

20 


27 

7 


40 


11 


14 
27 


31 


60 
37 
23 


16 


28 
52 


17 
21 


48 


34 
13 


36 


36 
32 


49 

36 
.  24 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 
B  B  e 


33 


B   S  O 


Rectory  aq.,  Whitehorse  la. 

Bed  Lion  passage,  Bed 
Lion  street 

Bed  Lion  square,  High  Hol- 
bom // 

Bed  Lion  street,  Clerken- 
well  roAd 

High  Holbom.  .  .// 

Bed  Lion  yard,  Old  Garen- 
dish  street / 

Bedeliffe  grdns.,  South  Ken- 
sington    

Reddiffe  sq.,  S.  Kensington 

Bedoliffe  street,  Bedeliffe  sq. 

Beddins  rd.,  Peckham.  .  . 

Bedcross  street.  Borough   . 

,  Barbican  ...... 

Bedeross  Hall 

Bedfleld  la.,  EarFs  Court  . 

Bedhill  St.,  Begent*s  park 

Bedman^s  rd..  Stepney  gm. 

Bedmead  lane,  Wapping    . 

Redriff  rd.,  Rotberhithe  .  . 

Reedworth  st.,  Kennington 
road 

Reeye*s  mews,  Orosvenor  sq. 

Beform  Club,  Pall  mall  IT 

Begency  str.,  Horseferry  rd. 

Begent  circus,  Oxford  st.  / 

Begent  square,  Gray's  inn  rd. 

Begent  street / 

,  City  road 

,  Limehouse 

Regents  park 

Begent*s  pk.  road,  BegenVs 
park 

Begent*s  row.  Queen's  road 

Bemington  street.  City  rd. 

Benfirew  road,  Lower  Ken- 
nington lane 

Betreat  place.  Hackney  .  . 

Bheidol  terrace,  Islington . 

Bhodes  St.,  Holloway  .  .  . 

Bhodeswell  rd.,  Limehouse 

Bhyl  St.,  Weedington  road 

Bicardo  St.,  Poplar  New  tn. 

Bichard  St.,   Liverpool  rd. 

Bichardson  st.,  Bermondsey 

Bichmond    cres.,  Islington 

Bichmond  grove,  Bamsbury 

Bichmond  rd.,  Barnsbury  . 

,  Dalston 

,  West  Brompton.  .   . 

Richmond  St.,  Edgware  rd. 

,  St.  Luke's 

,  Soho / 

,  Thomhill  square  .  . 

Richmond  ter.,  Whitehall /F 

Ridgmount  gdns.,  Bedford 
square / 

Ridgmount  st.,  Bedford  sq.  / 


34 


40 


26 


33 


Ridinghouse  St.,  Regent  St.  / 
Ridley  road,  Dalston  .  .  . 
Riley  street,  Chelsea    .  .  . 

,  Bermondsey    .... 

Risinghill  st.,  Pentonville  . 
River  st.  ,Bssez  rd. ,  Islington 

,  Myddelton  square.  . 

y  Tork  rd,  King's  cross 

Riverhall St., South  Lambeth 
Rivington  St.,  Shoreditch  . 
Robert  street,  Adelphi  .  // 

,  Orosvenor  sq. .  .  .  / 

,  Hampstead  rd.  .  .   . 

,  Regent's  park,  .  .  . 

Robinhood  lane.  Poplar  .  . 
Robinson  rd.,  Victoria  park 
Rochester  pi.,  Camden  road 
Rochester  rd.,  Camden  town 
Rochester  row,  Westminster 
lY 
Rochester  sq.,  Camden  town 
Rochester  ter.  .Camden  road 
Rochford  rd.,  Haverstock  rd. 
Rockingham  street,  Newing- 

ton  causeway  * 

Rodney  rd..  New  Kent  road 
Rodnev  street,  Pentonville 
Roland  gdns.,  Brompton  rd. 
RoUo  street.  Lower  Wands- 
worth road 

Rolls  buildings,  Fetter  la.  // 
Rolls  road,  Bermondsey  .  . 
Rolls  yard,  Chancery  la.  II 
Roman  Caith.  cathedral.  lY 
Roman  road,  Bamsbury  .  . 

■,  Bow 

Romford  st.^Whitechapel  . 
Romney  st., Westminster  lY 
Ronald^s  rd.,  Highbury  .  . 
Rood  la.,  Fenchurch  st.  /// 
Ropemaker  street,  Finsbury 
Roscoe  St.,  Bunhill  Fields  . 
Roseberyav.,  St.  Johnst.rd. 
Rosebery  street,  Dalston.  . 
Rosemary  road,  Peckham  . 
Rosetta  st.,  South  Lambeth 

Roslyn  park 

Rosoman  street,  Clerkenwell 

Rossmore  road 

Rothbury  road 

Rotherfleld  street,  Islington 
Rotberhithe  New  road  .  .  . 

Rotberhithe  street 

Rotberhithe  tunnel    .... 

Rotberhithe  wall 

Rothsay  st.,  Bermonsdey    . 

Rotten  row lY 

Rouel  road,  Bermondsey    . 

Roupell  street,  Cornwall  rd. 

Royal  Academy,  Burlington 

House,  Piccadilly  .  .  .  / 


45 


31 


U 


31 


10 


27 


67 


21 


21 


37 


35 


29 


)61 


38 


26 


47 
27 


54 
54 
54 
41 
13 

34 

22 
.  23 


50 


45 


34 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


BEG 


B   B 


Koyal  Academy  of  Music  1 
Boyal  avenue,  Chelsea  .  . 
Royal  College  of  Mxisic  .  . 
Boyal  College  of  Surgeons, 

Lincoln^s  inn  fields .  .  // 
Boyal  Bzchange,Comhlll  111 
Boyal  Exchange  buildings 
Boyal  hill,  Greenwich  .  . 
Boyal  Hospital,  Greenwich 
Boyal  mews,  Pimlico  .  .  . 
Boyal      Military     Asylum, 

King^s  road 

Boyal  Mint  st.,  Minories  III 
Boyal  Kaval  Sehool,  Green- 
wich     

Boyal  Oak  railway  station. 
Boyal  Ophthalmic  Hospital, 

City  road 

Boyal  street,  Carlisle  street 
Boyal     Victualling     Yard, 

Deptford 

Boyalty  theatre.  Dean  st.  / 
Budolph  road,  Kilbum  pk. 
Bumford  St.,  Bethnal  Green 
Bupert  street,  Haymarket  / 

,  Whitechapel   .... 

Bushton  street,  Hozton  .  . 

,  New  Korth  road   .   . 

Bussell  mansions  ....// 
Bussell  square,  Bloomsbury 
Bussell  St.,  Coyent  garden  II 
,  Lower  Wandsworth 

road 

Bussia  lane,  Bethnal  gre'en 
Butland  gate  and  mews, 

Enightsbridge 

Butland  st.,  Hampstead  rd. 

,  Pimlico 

,  South  Lambeth .  .  . 

,  Victoria  park    .   .   . 

,  Whitechapel  .... 

Byder  street,  St.  Jameses  IV 
Bye  lane,  Peokham  .... 


Sable  street,  Halton  road  .   81^ 

Sackville  street,  Piccadilly  / 

St.  Agnes  place,  Kennington    .  '      34 

St.  Alban's  Church.   ,  ,  II    .  3fi 

St.  Alban*s  Nat.  School  .  II    .    K:; 

St.  Alban's  pi.,  St.  James  / 

St.  Alban*s  rd.,  Kensington 

St.  Alban*s  street,  Lambeth    .  I      29 

St.  Andrew^  Hall  .  .   .  .  / 

St.  Andrew's  Ch.,  Holbom// 

St.  Andrew's  street,  Holbom 

circus // 

,  Wandsworth  road    .     ,24 

St.  Ann  St.,  Orchard  st.  /// 
St.  Ann's  court,  Soho  .  .  / 
"•t.  Ann^s  St.,  Westm.  ,    IV 

,  Ann's  ter.,  St. John's  wood  11 


lis 


'il 


^? 


41-1 


61 


5fi 


19 


I     21 
27 


STj 


48 


St.  Anne's  Church,  Dean  st.  I 
St.  Augustine's  road,  Cam- 
den square 

St.     Augustine's    A    Faith 
Church,  Old  Change  .  /// 
St.  Bartholomew's  Hospital, 
West  Smithfleld  .  //,  III 
St.    Bene't    place,     Grace- 
church  street  ....  /// 
St.  Botolph  Ch..  Aldgate'/// 
St.Bride  St.,  LudgateCircus  II 
St.  Bride's  Ch.,  Fleet  st.  // 
St.  Christopher  street,Oxford 

street  / 

St.  Clement  Danes  Church, 

Strand // 

St.  Clement's  Inn,  Strand  // 
St.  Clement's  St.,  OfTordrd. 
St.  David  St.,  Falmouth  rd. 
St.  Dunstan's  hill,    Lower 

Thames  street 

St.    Dunstan's  -  in  -  the  -  east 

Ch.,  Great  Tower  st.  /// 

St.  Dunstan's  -  in  -  the  -  west. 

Fleet  street // 

St.Edmund's  ter.,  Regents  pk. 
St.  Ethelburga,  Bishopsgate 
/// 
St.George'8  Cathedral(R.C.), 
Westminster  bridge  road 
St.  George's  Church,  Blooms- 
bury  // 

,  Hanover  square.  .  / 

St.  George's  barracks  .  .  / 
St.  George's  Hall,  Langham 

place / 

St.  George's  Hospital,  Hyde 

park  corner IV 

St.  George's  rd.,  Camberwell 

,  Pimlico / 

,  Regent's  pk 

,  South wark 

St.  George's  square,  Pimlico 
St.  George's  street,  Battersea 

,  London  docks.  ,  .   . 

St.  George's  ter.,  Hyde  pk. 
St.  Giles'  Church  .  .  '.  .  . 
St.  Giles  in  the  Fields,  High 
street,  St.  Giles  .  .  .  // 
St.  Helena  rd.,  Botherhithe 
St.  Helen's,  Bishopsgate  /// 
St.  Helen's  place,  Bishops- 
gate within Ill 

St.  James's  Church,  Picca- 
dilly  / 

St  James's  Club  .  .  .  .  /F 
St.   James's    grove,  Lower 
Wandsworth  road  .... 
St.  James's  Hall,  Great  Port- 
land st / 

St.  James's  Palace   .  .    IV 


26 


34 


27 


40 

\3 

47 
35 
35 

19 

31 
31 

i 
37 

42 

U 

35 

43 


16 


24 
17  . 


18 


43 
21 

33 
26 
19 


60 
15 
40 

27 

43 

43 

22 
23 


03 


16 


24 
22 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


35 


B  K  e 


St.    James's    Park,    West- 

miiLster /F 

St.  James  rd.,  Bermondsef 

,  HoUoway 

,  Old  Kent  rd 

,  Victoria  pk 

St.  James's  sqaare  .  .  IV 
St.  James's  St.,  Glerkenwell 

y  Islington 

.,  PaU  mall .  .  .   .  /K 

St.    James's   theatre,  King 

street,  St.  James ...  77 
St.  John  street,  Islington  . 

,  West  Smithfleld    .// 

St.  John  St.  rd.,  Glerkenwell 
St.  John's  lane,  Glerkenwell 
St.   John's   road,   Deptford 

New  town 

,  Hoxton 

St.  John's  St.,  Glerkenwell 

,  Smith's  sq 

St.  John's  wood  park  .  .  . 
St.  John's  wood  road  .  .  . 
St.  John's  wood  terrace  .  . 
St.  Jnde's  St.,  Ball's  Pond  rd. 
St.  Julian's  road,  Kilburn  . 
St.  Katherine  Gree,  Leaden- 
hall  street /// 

St.  Katherine's,  Regent's  pk. 
St.  Katherine'f  docks  .  /// 
St.  Katherine's  wharf .  /// 
St.  Leonard  street,  Bromley 
St.  Leonard's  road  .... 
St.  Leonard's  ter.,  Chelsea 

hospital 

St.  Luke's  hospital,  Gity  rd. 
St.  Lake's  road,  Westbonme 

park 

St.  Magnns  the  Martyr,  Fish 

street  hiU Ill 

St.  Margaret's  Ohtirch,Broad- 

way,  Westminster  .  .  IV 

,  Lothbnry .  ,  ,  ,  III 

St.  Mark's  Church .  .  .  .  / 
St.  Mark's  rd.,  Gamberwell 
St.    Mark's   St.,   Goodman's 

fields /// 

St.    Martin  -  in  -  the  -  Fields 

Church,  Trafalgar  sq.  // 
St.  Martin's  lane,  Trafalgar 

square // 

St.  Martin's-le-Grand  .  /// 
St.  Martin's  place,  Trafalgar 

square II 

At.  Martin's  St.,  Leicester  sq.  7 
St.  Mary  Aldermary  Church, 

Bow  lane 

St.  Mary-at-hill ,  Eastcheap 

777 

St.    Mary  Axe,   Leadenhall 

street 777 


29 


65 


43 


Itf 


40 


07 


i9 


64 


13 


35 


St.    Mary -le- Bow  Church, 

Cheapside 77/ 

St.  Mary-le-Strand  Church, 

Strand 77 

St.  Mary  Magdalene  Church, 

Bermondsey  street  .  .  . 
St.  Mary  Woolnoth  Church, 

Lombard  street  .  .  .  777 
St.  Mary's  Church,Temple  77 
St.  Mary's  road,  Ganonbury 

,  Queen's  rd 

S  t.  Mary 's  sq . ,  Kennington  rd . 
St.  Marylebone  Gh.,  Maryle- 

bone  road 

St.    Matthias    road.    Stoke 

Kewington 

St.  Michael's  Ch., Chester  sq. 

,  Cornhill 777 

St.  Olave's  Church,  Tooley 

street 777 

St.  Pancras  Gh.,  Euston  sq. 
St.   Pancras  goods   station. 

Agar  town 

St.  Paul's  Cathedral .  .  777 
St.  Paul's  Church,    Corent 

garden 77 

St.  Paul's  churchyard  .  777 
St.  Paul's cres.,  Camden  road 
St.  Paul's  pi.,  Si.  Paul's  rd. 
St.  Paul's  pier,  Up.  Thames 

street 77,  777 

St.  Paul's  road,  Bow    .  .  . 

,  Camden  sq 

,  Islington 

,  Walworth 

St.  Paul's  sta.,Blackfriars  77 
St.  Peter  street.  Hackney  rd. 

,  Islington 

St.  Peter's  Gh.,  Cornhill  777 

,  Pimlico IV 

St.  Peter's  road.  Mile  end 

road 

St.  Petersburgh  place.  Bays- 
water  

St.Philipp's  rd.,Kingsld.rd. 
St.  Saviour's  Church.  .  777 
St.  Sepulchre  Church,  Snow 

hill 77 

St.  Stephen's  Church,  Wal- 

brook 777 

St.  Stephen's  road.  Bow  .  . 
St.     Stephen's     road     and 

square,  Westbourne  park 
St.    Swithin's    lane.    King 

William  street  ...  777 
St.  Swithin's,  London  Stone 

Church,  Gannon  street  777 
St.    Thomas's    Church   and 

School 7 

St.  Thomas'shospital,  Albert 

embankment     ....  77 


38 


41 


27 


31 
41 


43 
36 


62 
33 


16 


43 
43 


17 


39 
31 


64 


52 


46 


36 
I 

J 

43 
21 

56 

7 

38 


34 


59 


4 

43 
43 

19 
29 


36 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B  B  O 


B   K  O 


St.  Thom»«*8  place,  Hackney 
St. Thomases  Ch., Borough  III 
St.  Thomas  square,  Hackney 
St.  Thomas  street  east,  Boro* 
St.  Thomas  street,  Islington 
St.  Vincent  St..  Charles  st. 
Sale  street,  Paddington  .  . 
Salisbury  ct.,  Fleet  st.  // 
Salisbury  st.,  Lisson  grove 

,  Strand // 

,  Victoria  park  cem.  . 

Saltram  crescent 

Sancroft  St.,  Kennington  rd. 
Sandall  rd.,  Gampden  town 
Sandover  rd.,  Albany  rd.  . 
Sandringham       industrial 

dwellings IV 

Sandringham  road,  Dalston 
Sandwich  st.,  Burton  cres. 
Sandy's    row ,    Bishopsgate 

street /// 

Sardinia  st.,    Lincolns  Inn 

fields // 

Satchville    rents ,     Bethnal 

green  rd 

SarafeOlub // 

Savage  gardens.  Tower  hill 
Savile      row ,      Burlington 

gardens / 

Saville  place,  Lambeth  walk 
Saville  street,  Langham  st.  / 
Savona  street.  Nine  elms  . 
Savoy  Church,  Strand  .  // 
Savoy  court,  Strand  .  .  // 
Savoy  street,  Strand  .   .  // 

Savoy  theatre // 

Saxon  rd.,  St.  Stephen^s  rd. 
Sayer  st..  New  Kent  rd.  . 

Scala  theatre / 

Scarborough  St.,  Goodman's 

fields /// 

Scarsdale  rd.,  Walworth. 
Scarsdale  villas,  Kensington 
Scawfell  St.,  Hackney  rd.  . 
Scepter  st.,  Bethnal  Green 
Scoresby  St.,  Blackfriars  rd. 
Scotland  yard  (new),  White- 
hall . IV 

Scrutton  St.,   Finsbury 

Seabright  st.,  Hackney  road 

Seagrave  road,  Fulham  .   . 

Searles  rd.,  New  Kent  rd. . 

Seaton  St.,   Hampstead  rd. 

Sebbon  street,  Canonburysq. 

Sedan  street,  Walworth  .  . 

Sedgmoor  pi.,   Gamberwell 

Seething  lane.  City  .   .  /// 

Sekforde  street,  Clerkenwell 

-klbome  road ,  Camberwell 

'by  street,  Bethnal  green 

wood  place.  Queen's  elm  ' 


64 

42 

GO 

42 

39 

66 
16 
35 

12 

12 
30 

56 

4 

29 

21 

27 

42 

45 

28 

44 
31 

48 

30 
43 

28 

21 

31 
31 
31 
30 

29 
23 

60 

24 

47 

i 

87 
42 

47 

66  66 

. 

34 

26 

, 

U 

52 

• 

2 
41 

24 

38 

43 

42 
43 

36  36 

.  1. 

40 

.  62 

. 

9 

Selwood  terrace,  Fulham  rd. 
Senior  road,  Harrow  road  .| 
Serjeants*  Inn ,  Fleet  st.  // 
Serle  st.,  Lincoln's  Inn  fields 
Sermon  la.,  Doctors' com.  Ill 

,  White  Conduit  at.    . 

Seven  Dials // 

Seville  st.,  Lowndes  Sq.  .  . 
Seward  street,  Goswell  road 
Sewardstone  rd.,  Victoria  pk. 
Seymour  pL,  Bryanston  sq. 

,  Fulham  road  .... 

Seymour  St.,  Portman  sq.  / 
Shacklewell  la.  ,Kingsland  rd. 

Shacklewell  road 

Shad  Thames,  Horselydown 
Shadwell    railway   station, 

Sutton  street  east  .... 
Shaftesbury  avenue  .  /,  // 
Shaftesbury  theatre  .  .  .  / 
Shaftesbury  street,  Hoxton 
Shalcomb  street,  Chelsea  . 
Shandy  st^^  Whitehorse  la 
Sharpies  Hall  St.,  Regent's 

Park  road 

Sharsted  st.,  Kennington  pk. 
Shawfield  street,  Chelsea  . 
Sheffield  ter.,  Campden  hUl 
Shell  !vci:,d  rd.,Latchmere  rd. 
Sbt[>ht^rd  street,  Mayfair  IV 
Shepb^fdcss  walk,  Hoxton 
Sbepbi^rd'd  lane,  Homerton 
Shf^^ihiL^rd  B  market,  Mayfair 
She^i herd's  St.,  Spitalfields 
Sht!ppH?rliin  road,  Islington 
Sh^rtHjrue  la..  King  William 

street /// 

—  St.,  Marylebone  road  .  . 
Sheridan  street.  Commercial 

road  east / 

Sherriflf  rd.,  Kilburn  .  .  .  . 
Sherwood  st..  Golden  sq.  . 
Shipton  street,  Hackney  rd. 
Shirland  rd.,  Paddington  . 
Shoe  lane.  Fleet  street  .  // 
Shore  road.  Hackney  .  .  . 
Shoreditch  High  street  .  . 
Shoreditch  railway  station 
Short's  gardens,  Drury  la.  // 
Shoul  dham  s  t.  ,Bryanstone  sq . 
Shrewsbury  rd.,Westboume 

park 

Shrubland  grove,  Dalston  . 
Shrubland  road,  Dalston  . 
Sibella  road,  Clapham  .  . 
Sidmouth  st.,  Gray's  Inn  rd. 
Sidney  square,  Commercial 

road  east 

Sidney  street.  City  road  .  . 

,  Mile  end 

,  York  road 


8 
35 
31 

m 

J3 


35 


16 


39 


48 

51 
37 
37 


60 


10 


18 


34 

14 


16 


IS 
43 


13 
16 


51 
33 


i8 
16 


33 


51 
36 

.;ba 

3li   I 


SQUABBS,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


37 


BBS 


B   B  O 


Sigdon  roftd,  Haekney  .  . 
Silyer  ftreet.  Stepney  .  .  . 
surer  rtreet.  Wood  it.  .  lU 
SUyester  pi.,  Hftckney  .  . 
Simpfon  St.,  South  Lambetli 

,  York  road 

Sion  College // 

Skidmore  street.  Stepney  . 
Skinner  street,  Olerkenwell 
Skinner  street,  Somers  town 
Skipton  street,  London  rd. 
Sloene  square,  Ohelsea  .  . 
Sloane  street,  Ohelsea  .  .  . 
Sloane  terraee,  Ohelsea  .  . 
Slyman  st..  Bast  rd.  City  rd. 
Smith  sq.,  Westminster  IV 
Smith  street,  Chelsea  .  .  . 

,  Kennington  pk. .  .  . 

,  Korthampton  sq.  .  . 

,  Stepney 

Smith  terraee.  Smith  street 
Smithfleld  West,  King  st.  . 
Smyrk^s  road.  Old  Kent  rd. 
Snow  hi. .  Holbom  Tiadnct  II 
Snow^s  nelds,  Bermondsey 
Soane*s  Huseuni,  Lincoln^s 

inn  fields // 

Society  of  Brit.  Artists   .  / 

Soho  square / 

Boho  street,  Soho  squ.  .  / 
Somerset  House,  Strand  // 
Somerset  place.  Strand  // 
Somerset  St.,  Portman  sq.  / 
SomerriUeroad,  Queen*s  rd. 
Soudan  rd.,  Battersea  .  .  . 
South  Audley  street,  Gros- 
renor  square  .  .  .  /,  77 
South  Bermondsey.  Ber- 
mondsey Kew  road  .  .  . 
South  Bruton  mews,  Bruton 

street  / 

South  cretf.,  Bedford  sq.  I 
South  Eastern  *  Chatham 
railway  station  ..... 
South  grove,  Mile  end  road 
South  Island  pL,  Brixton  rd. 
South  Kensington  station  . 
South  Kensington  Museum 
South  Lambeth  road  .  .  . 
South  London  Fine  Art  Gall. 
South   Molton   lane,    Oros- 

▼enor  square / 

South  Molton  St.,  Oxford  st.  / 
South  parade,  Chelsea .  .  . 
South  pi.,  Finsbury  .... 

,  kennington 

South  square,  Ghray's  inn  // 
South  street,  Blackheath  rd. 

,  Camberwell 

,  Finsbury 

-^  — ,  Ghrosvenor  sq..  .   .  / 


19 


48 


28 


44 


60 


18 


23 


49 


21 


South  street,  Kew  Korth  road 

,  Walworth 

South  Wharf  rd.,  Paddington 
Southampton  build..  Chan- 
cery lane // 

Southampton  rd.,  Maitld.  rd. 
Southampton  row,  Bussell 

square // 

Southampton  st.,  Bloomsbury 

—  ^,  Camberwell 

,  Strand // 

Southampton  ter.,  Islington 
Southboro*rd.,  Sth.  Hackney 
Southgate  grove,  Kingsland 

Southgate  road 

Southsea  Ho.,  Threadneedle 

street Ill 

Southville    street,  Wands- 
worth road 

Southwark  it  Vauxhall  wa- 
terworks reservoirs  .  .  . 
Southwark  bridge .  ,  ,  III 
Southwark  bridge  rd.,  Boro* 

Southwark  park 

Southwark  park  rd.,  Ber> 

mondsej 

Southwark  street    .  .  .  /// 
Southwell  gardens,  S.  Ken- 
sington    

Southwick  cres.,  Oxford  sq. 
Southwick  place,  Hyde  Park 

equare 

Southwick  street,  Oxford  sq. 
Spn  road,  Bermondsey .  .  . 
Spaoiih  pL,  Mmncheatersq.  / 
Sp<d1man  tu^  Spitalflelds     . 

SpCDcor  HatiAe IV 

Sptisccr  road,  Battersea  .  . 
Speacer  a\*,  C&aonbury  sq. 
-r  —,  Commercial  road  east 

j  Goswell  road  .... 

Spenlow  street.  Stepney.  . 
Spital  street,  Pelham  street 
Spitalflelds  market  .... 
Spring  grdns.,  Charing  cross 
Spring  street,  Farringdon  rd. 
Spring  St.,  Paddington.  .   . 

,  Poriman  sq. .  .   .   .  / 

Spurstowe  road,  Hackney  . 
Squirries  st.,  Bethnal  gm.rd. 
Stable    yard,    St.    James's 

palace IV 

Stacey  street,  St.  Oiles'  /,  // 

Stafford  House IV 

Stafford  road,  Kilbum  park 

,  Roman  road    .... 

Stafford  street,  Lisson  grove 

,  Old  Bond  st.  .  .  .  / 

Stafford  terrace,  Phillimore 

gardens,  Kensington.  .  . 

Staiasby  road.  Poplar  .   .   . 


4& 


12 
32 


41 


17 


82 
32 


81 


43 


43 


38 
37 
49 

49 


27 
18 

49 


5 
15 

11 
15 
45 
20 
48 
22 


45 


38 


15 


51 


48 
48 
55 
J 
11 
20 


22 
27 
22 


16 
22 

1 
63 


38 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STRBBTS, 


BBS 


B  S   « 


Stainforth  rd.,  B»tter0M.  . 
Stamford  road,  De  Beanvoir 

town 

Stamford  at.,  Blaekfriars  rd. 
Standard  St.,  New  Kent  rd. 
Stanford  road,  Fnlham  .  . 

,  Kensington 

Stangate  St.,  Upper  Marsh 
Stanhope    gardens ,    South 

Kensington 

Stanhope  St.,  Euston  road  . 

,  victoria  gate  .... 

Stanhope  terraee,  Hyde  pk. 

gardens  

Stanley  crescent,Kensington 

park 

Stanley  gardens,  Belsize  pk. 

,  Kensington  park   .  . 

Stanley  park  rd..  King's  rd. 
Stanley  place,  Stanley  street 
Stanley  rd..  Ball's  Pond  rd. 

,  Hackney 

Stanley  street,  London  street 

,  Queen's  road  .... 

Stanmore  street,  Pancras  rd. 
Stannary  st.,  Kennington  . 
Stanton  St.,  Peokham  .  .  . 
Stanworth  St.,  Bermondsey 
Staple  street.  Long  lane  .  . 
Star  street,  Edgware  road 
Stationers'  hall,  Ludgate  hill 
11 
Stayton  st.,  Ghelsea .... 
Stean  st.,  Kingsland  rd. .  . 
Steedman  St.,  Walworth  rd. 
Steeles  road,  Hayerstookhill 

Steinway  Hall / 

Stephen  street,  Tottenham 

court  road / 

Stepney  green.  Mile  end  road 
Stepney  High  St.,  White- 
horse  st 

Steward  street,  Artillery  st. 

,  Isle  of  Dogs 

Stewart's  grove,  Fulham  rd. 
Stewart's  la.,  Battersea  fields 
Stibhington  st.,  Somerstown 
Stock  Exchange,  Capel  court 
III 
Stock  orchard  st.  ,Galedonian 

road 

Stockbridge  ter.,  Victoria  st. 

Stockwell  green 

Stockwell  park  road  .... 

Stockwell  road 

Stoke  Kewington  road .  .  . 
Stonecutter  St., Farringdon  st. 
Stonefleld  street,  Islington 
Stoney  lane,  Tooley  street 
Stoney  street.  Borough  .  . 
Store  street,  Bedford  sq.  / 


43 


13 


27 


24 


27 


29 


19 


56 


16 


20 


Storey's  gate,  Great  George 

street IV 

Stork's  road,  Bermondsey  . 

Strand // 

Strand  station,  Surrey  st.  // 
Stratford  central  railway  sta. 
Stratford  market  railway 
sto..  High  street.  .  *  .  . 
Stratford  High  street  .  .  . 
Stratford  pi.,  Camden  town 
Stratford  road,  Kensington 
Stratton  street,  PiecadiUy  IV 
Streatham  st.  ,Bloomsbury  // 
Strutton      ground ,     West- 

minster IV 

Studley  road,  Olapham  road 
Sturgeon  rd.,  Walworth .  . 
Subway,  Tower  hill .... 
Suffolk  lane.  Upper  Thames 

street /// 

Suffolk  street.  Pall  mall  / 

,  Upper  iKorth  st. .  .  . 

Sumner  place,  Onslow  sq. 
Sumner  road.  Commercial 

road,  Peckham 

Sumner  st.,  Southwark  /// 
Sunderland  terrace.  West- 
bourne  park 

Surrey  gardens.  Pen  ton  pi., 
Kennbigton  park  road  . 
Surrey  lane,  Battersea  .  . 
Surrey  row,  Blackfriars  rd. 
Surrey  square.  Old  Kent  rd. 
Surrey  street.  Strand .  .  // 
Sussex  gardens,  Paddtogton 
Sussex  pi.,  Hydepk.  gardens 

,  Kensington 

,  Regent's  park.  .  .  . 

Sussex  square,  HTde  park . 
Sussex  street,  Stainsby  road 

,  St.  George's  road .  . 

Sutherland  are.,  Harrow  x^. 

—  gardens     

—  place,  Bayswater  .... 

—  sq.,  Walworth 

—  street,  Pimlieo     .... 

—  terrace,  Pimlieo  .... 
Sutton  place,  Homerton  .  . 
Sutton  street,  Soho  .... 

,  York  road 

Sutton  street  east 

Swallow  street,  Piccadilly  . 
Swan  lane,  Botherhithe  .  . 
,  Upper  Thames  street 

Swan  pier,London  bridge/// 
Swan  place.  Old  Kent  road 
Swan  street,  Minories  .  /// 

,  Shoreditch 

,  Trinity  square    .  .  . 

Swintnn  st.,  Gray's  inn  road 


91 
Si 


1 
25 


2S 


4S 
39 
63 


3S 


34 
Li 


16 


U 
5 


^ 


38 
17 


27 
30 
66 

22 
58 

42 
42 

43 
47 
37 


41 


32 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


39 


B  s  e 


B  s  o 


u 


SwiM  OotUc«  railway  fU., 

BeUiie  road 10 

Sydney  place,  Oailow  fq. 
Sydney  road,  Homerton  .  .   67 
Sydney  street,  Fulham  road 
Symon«  fftreet,   Sloane  aq. 


Tabard  ft.,  Borough .... 
Tabernacle  wk.,  Finfbary 
Tacbbrook  ft.,  Plmlico  .  . 
Tait  street.  St.  George*!  east 
Talbot  roaa,  Westbonme  pk. 
Talfoort  road,  Peckham  rd. 
TaUis  St,  Temple  ....// 
Tanner's  nill ,  Deptford  .  . 
Tanner  St.,  Bermondsey  .  . 
Tanawell  St.,  Boro'  .... 
Tarling  street,  Oommereial 

road  east 

Tarn  St..  Borough 

Tate  Gallery 

Tattersalls 

Taristock   crescent,  West- 

bourne  park 

Tavistock  mews,Litt.  Coram 

street  

Tavistock  pi.,  Tavistock  sq. 
Tavistock  road,  Westboume 

park 

Tavistock  sq.,  Woburn  pi.. 
Tavistock  St.,  Govent  ga.  // 
Taviton  street,  Gordon  sq. 
Teesdale  rd.,  Bethnal  green 
Templar  road,  Homerton  . 

Temple,  City // 

Temple  avenue,yictoria  em- 
bankment   // 

TempleChurchfSt.Mary's)  // 
Temple  lane,  Whitefriars  // 
Temple  pier,  Victoria  em- 
bankment     // 

Temple  station // 

Temple  street,  Camberwell 
—  ^— ,  Hackney  road.   .   .  . 

,  Queen's  road   .... 

,  Southwark 

,  Whitefriars.   .   .   .// 

Temple  mill  rd 

Tennison  street,  Lambeth  . 
Tennyson  street.  Queen's  rd. 
Tenter  St.,  Moorfields  .  .   . 

,  Spitalflelds    .  .  ./// 

,  Goodman's  fields  /// 

Tenterden  St.,  Hanover  sq.  / 
Terrace  road.  Well    street 

Terry's  theatre // 

Tetley  street,  Bromley.   .  . 

Thames  subways 

Thames  tunnel 

Thanet  street,  Burton  cres. 
Thayer  st.,  Manchester  sq.  / 


bT 


61 


51 


The  Mail,  Kensington  .  .  . 
Theberton  street,  Islington 
Theobald's  road  ....// 
Theobald  st..  New  Kent  rd. 
Thistle   grove  lane.    West 

Brompton 

Thomas  st.,  Grosvenor  sq.  / 

,  Limehouse 

,  Old  Kent  rd 

Thome  rd..  South  Lambeth 
Thomhill  road,  Bamsbury 
Thomhill  sq..  Islington  .  . 
Thommach  rd..  South  Lam- 
beth     

Thomville  st.,  Deptford  .  . 
Thrawl  St.,  Spitalflelds  /// 
Threadneedle  street .  .  /// 
Three  Oolt  st.,  Limehouse 
Three  Cranes  lane,  Upper 
Thames  street ..../// 
Throgmorton  avenue  •  /// 
Throgmorton  st..  City  .  /// 
Thurloe  pi.,  S.  Kensington 

Thurloe  square 

Thurlow  street,  Walworth 
Tilmey  st..  Bethnal  Green 
Tilson  road,  Peckham  .  .  . 
Times  Offlce,  Printing  house 

square // 

Tindall  street,  Camberwell 

Kew  road 

Titchborne  st.,  Edgware  rd. 
Titchfield  rd.,  Begent's  park 
Tite  street,  Chelsea  .... 
Tiverton  street,  Newington 

causeway 

Tomlin's  grove.  Bow  road 
Tonbridge  st,  Euston  road 
Tooley  street,8outhwark  /// 
Topas  street,  Lambeth  .  . 
Torriano  avenue,  Camden  tn. 

Torrington  place 

Torrington  square.  Blooms- 
bury    / 

Torrington   St.,    Torrington 

•q / 

TothUl  St.,  Westminster  lY 
Tottenham  court  road  .  .  / 
Tottenhamrd.,8outhgate  rd. 
Tottenham  st.,  Fitcroy  sq.  / 
Totty  street,  Roman  road  . 
Toulon  St.,  Wyndham  rd. 
Tower  of  London  .  .  .  Ill 
Tower  bridge  .   .   .   .   .  /// 

Tower  hill /// 

Tower  street,  Westminster 

bridge  road 

Townsend  st..  Old  Kent  rd. 
Townshendrd.,  St.  John's  wd. 
Toynbee  Hall  .....  7/7 
Tracey  street,  Kennington  . 


36 


37 


19 


41 
27 


48 
43 
63 

39 
43 
43 


27 
43 


48 


9 
42 
24 

43 


36 
15 


15 


14 


26 


29 


28 
25 
28 
\ 
24 


42 


15 


46 
46 
42 

33 

47 


41 


29 


40 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B  S  G 


B   B  O 


TrafiiJgar  road,  Green wieh 

,  Haggenton 

,  Old  Kent  rd 

Trafelgar   square,    Charing 

croaa //,  /F 

,  Chelsea 

,  Stepney 

Trafalgar  at.,  Walworth  rd. 
Tranton  rd.,  Bermondsey  . 
Travellers*  Club,  Pall  mall 
lY 
Treadway  st.,  Haekney  rd. 
Treasury,  Whitehall .  .  /F 
Tredegar  road,  Bow .... 
Tredegar  sq..  Mile  end  road 
Tregunterrd.,  W.  Brompton 
Treheme  rd.,Korth  Brixton 
Treror  sq.,  Knightsbridge  . 
Trigon  road,  South  Lambeth 
Trinity  House,  Tower  hill  III 
Trinity  sq.,  Borough  High  st. 

,  Tower  hill  .  .  .  JII 

Trinity  street,  Blaekman  st. 

,  Liverpool  rd 

Trott  St.,  High  St.  Battersea 
Truman  rd.,  Stoke  Ke wing- 
ton   

Trump  street,  Cheapside  III 
Tudor  grove ,  Well  street 
Tudor  road,  Haekney  .  .  . 
Tudor  St.,  Blackfriars  .  .// 
Tufton  St.,  Westminster  IV 
Tuilerie  street,  Hackney  rd. 
Turin  street,  Bethnal  grn.  rd. 
Tumee  sq.,  Hoxton  street 
Turner  street.  Commercial 

road  east 

Turner's  road,  Limehouse  . 
Tummill  st.,  Clerkenwell  . 
Tumville    street,    Bethnal 

green  road 

Tussaud*8  waxworks,  Mary- 

lebone  rd / 

Tweed  street,  Mne  elms  . 
Twining  street,  Lineoln^s  Inn 

fields 

Twyford  st.,  Caledonian  rd. 
Tyers  street,  Lambeth  .  . 
Tyler  street,  Camaby  st.  / 
Tyneham  rd. ,  Lavender  hi. 
Type  street,  Chiswell  street 
Tysoe  St.,  Clerkenwell  .  . 
Tyssen  street,  Hoxton.  .  . 

Uffood  St.,  Waterloo  rd..  . 
Ufton  grove,  Southgate  rd. 
Ufton  road,  Kingsland  .  . 
Underwood  street,  Mile  end 
Union  grove,  Clapham  .  . 
Union  road,  Clapham  .... 
,  Millpond  street  .   .   . 


46 


62 


36 


31 


31 


11 


48 
20 

81 

40 

48 

42 
42 

48 

.  49 


83 


Union     road,     Kewington 

causeway 

Union  sq.,  Hew  ITorth  rd. 
Union  street,  Boro*   .... 

,  Clapham 

,  East  road 

,  Kennington  rd. .  .  . 

,  Kingsland  rd 

,  Middlesex  hospital  / 

,  Pimlieo  road .... 

,  Whiteehapel  rd.   .  . 

United  Service  Club,  Pall 

mall 17 

United     Service     Museum. 

Whitehall if 

University  College,6ower  st. 
University  College  Hospital, 

University  st.,  Gower  st. 
University  street,  Totten- 
ham court  road 

Upper  Baker  st.,  Marylebone 
Upper  Bedford  pi.,  Russell 

square 

Up.  Belgrave  st.,  Pimlieo  /F 
Upper  Berkeley  street.  .  / 
Upper    Bland    street,     Gt. 

l5over  street 

Upper  Brook  street,  Gros- 

venor  square I 

Upper  Charles  street,  Gos- 

well  road 

Upper  East  Smithfield  /// 
Upper  Garden  street,  West- 
minister  

Upper  George  street,  Edg- 

ware  road 

Upper     Gloucester     place, 

Dorset  square 

Upper   Grange   road,    Ber- 

mondsey 

Upper  Grosvenor  street  .  . 
Upper  Hamilton  terrace,  St. 

John^s  wood 

Upper  James  street.  Golden 

square / 

,  Oval  road,   Camden 

town 

Upper  John  St.,  Golden  sq.  / 

,  Hoxton 

Upper  Kennington  lane  .  . 
Upper  Manor  street,  Chels. 
Upper  Marylebone  street  / 
Upper   Korth   street.   East 

India  dock  road 


Upper  Ogle  street.  Upper 
Marylebone  street .  .  .  / 

Up.  Park  rd.,  Haverstock  hi. 

Up.  Park  St.,  Liverpool  rd. 

Upper  Phillimore  gardens  . 

Upper  Porchester  St.,  Edge- 
ware  rd 


39 


37 


39 


31 

.    1 
51 

80 


28 


36 


28 

24 
% 

23 
17 
15 

37 

i» 

'4ti 


%\ 


16 


4a 


3S 
.  3 

.  ] 

24 
69 
24 

I 

lb 


SO 
13 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


41 


B  S  G 


B   B  G 


Upper  Bathbone  place  .  / 
Upper  Rapert  street,  Soho  / 
Up.  BoMellft.,  Bermondsey 
Upper  St.  Martinis  lane  // 
Upper  Smith  street,  Korth- 

ampton  square 

Upper  Spring  street,  Mary- 

lebone / 

Upper  street,  Islington   .  . 
Upper  Thames  street  .  IJI 
Upper  Vernon  st.  ,Pentonyille 
Upper  Westbonrne  terrace, 

Harrow  road 

Upper    Weymonth    street, 

liarylebone / 

Upper  William  street,  Port- 
land town 


Upper  Wimpole  st.,  Maryle- 
bone / 

Upper  Winchester  street, 
Caledonian  road 

Upper  Wobnm  place,  Tavi- 
stock square 

Upstal  St.,  Gamberwell   .  . 

Urswick  road,  Homerton   . 

Usher  road,  Old  Ford.  .  . 

Usk  St.,  Oreen  street  .  .  . 

Uxbridge  road  railway  stat. 

Uxbridge  street,  Kensington 

,  Kewington  causeway 

Valentine  place,  Blackfriars 

road 

Vallance  rd.,  Bethnal  Green 
Varden    street.    New   road 

Whitechapel 

Vassal  road ,  Gamberwell 
Vauderille'  theatre,    Strand 

(opposite  Salisbury  st.)  // 

Vanzhall  bridge 

Vauxhall  bridge  rd.  .  .  lY 
Vauxhall  High  street  .  .  . 
Vauxhall  pier,  Millbank  . 
Vauxhall  railway  station  . 
Vaaxhall  street,  Lambeth 
Vauxhall  walk,  Lambeth  . 
Vere  street,  Oxford  street 
Vemey  rd.,  St.  James's  rd. 
Vernon  pL,  Bloomsbury  sq. 
Vernon  road ,  Roman  road 
Vernon  st.,  King^s  cross  rd. 
Verona  street,  York  road  . 
Verulam  street,  Gray's  inn 

road // 

Vestry  Hall,  Peckham  rd.  . 
Vestry  road,  Peckham  rd. 
Viaduct  St.,  Bethnal  gm.  rd. 
Viceroy  rd.,  Sth.  Lambeth 
Victoria  and  Albert  Museum 
Victoria  embankment  11^  JV 
yictoria  grove,  Fulham  rd. 


16 


53 


51 


31 


36 


35 


60 


27 


Victoria  grove,  Kensington 

Victoria  park 

Victoria  park  railway  sta- 
tion, Wick  lane 

Victoria  park  road,  Hackney 
Victoria  park  square.  Green 
street,  Bethnal  green  .  . 
Victoria  place,  Bayswater 
Victoria  railway  bridge  .  . 
Victoria  railway  station  IV 
Victoria  road,  Battersea   . 

,  HoUoway 

,  Kensington 

,  Kentish  tn 

,  Kilburn 

,  Rye  la.,  Peckham.  . 

Victoria  square,  Pimlico  JV 
Victoria  St.,  Westminster  77 
Vigo  street.  Regent  street  I 
VUla  street,  Walworth  .  . 
VilUers  street.  Strand  .  II 
Vincent  sq.,  Westminster . 
Vincent  St.,  Westminster  . 
Vincent  terrace.  City  road 
Vine  street,  Minories   .  /// 

,  Regent  street  .  .  .  i 

,  Tooley  street .... 

,  York  rd.,  Lambeth  . 

Virginia  road,  Bethnal  grn. 
Vivian  road,  Roman  road  . 
Vyner  street,  Cambridge  rd. 

Wadeson  St.,  Cambridge  rd. 
Wadhurst  rd.,  Battersea .  . 
Wake  street,  Lambeth.  .  . 
Wakefield  st.,  Gray's  inn  rd. 
Walbrook,  Mansion  ho.  /// 
Walcot  square,  Lambeth  . 
Waldorf  theatre  .  ...  II 
Walham  gro.,  Walham  grn. 
Wall  St.,  De  Beauvoir  town 
Wallace  rd.,  Islington.  .  . 
Wallwood  St.,  Burdett  rd. . 
Walnut  Tree  walk,  Lambeth 
Walpole  street.  King's  road, 

Chelsea 

Walterton  road,  Harrow  rd. 
Walton  place.  Queen  street, 

Brompton 

Walton  street,  Chelsea    .  . 

Walworth  road 

Wandsworth  road 

Wandsworth  rd.  rail,  station 
Wansey  st.,  Walworih  rd. 
Wapping,  High  street     .  . 

Wapping  station 

War  Office,  Whitehall.  IV 
Warburton  rd..  Hackney  .  . 
Ward  street,  Lambeth.  .  . 
Warden  road,  Kentish  tn. 
Wardour  street,  Soho  .  .  I 


69 


66 


33 


36 


60 


31 


63 


13 


17 
.  27 


48 


42 


13 


29 


42 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B  B  a 


B   B  O 


Warham  at.,  Kennigton  .  . 

Warley  ftreet,  Bethnal  gm. 

Warner  place,  Hackney  rd. 

Warner  road,  Camberwell 
New  road 

Warner  ftreet,  Clerkenwell 

,  New  Kent  rd.    ... 

Warren  street,  Fitiroy  »q. 

,  PentonviUe 

Warriner  gda.,  Battersea  . 

Warrington  cre8.,Maida  Tale 

Warwick  grdns. ,  Kensington 

Warwick  la.,  Newgate  at.  // 

Warwick  place,  Oray*0  inn 

Warwick  road,  Kensington 

,  Maida  hill 

north,  Clifton  gardens 

Warwick  square,  Pimlico  . 

Warwick  st.,  BelgraTe  rd. 

,   Golden  sq / 

,  Kensington 

Water  lane.  Lower  Thames 
street /// 

Water  street.  Strand   .     // 

Waterford  road,  Fnlham    . 

Watergate  st..  Deptford  .  . 

Waterloo  bridge     .  .   .     // 

Waterloo  pier // 

Waterloo  pi..  Pall  mall  IV 

Waterloo  rd.,   Bishop^s  rd. 

,  Borough 

Waterloo  railway  sta.,  Wa- 
terloo road 

Waterloo    St.,    Oamberwell 

Waterloo  and  City  rail, 
tunnel 

Watling  street,  City .  .  /// 

Watney  st.,  Shadwell  .  .   . 

Waverley  pi.,  St.  John>  wd. 

Waverley  rd.,   Harrow  rd. 

WaTerton  street,  Berkeley 
square JV 

Weatherby  road  A  gardens, 
Earrs  Court 

Webber  row.  Black  friars  rd. 

Webber  8t.,Blackfriarsroad 

Wedderburn  rd 

Weedington  road ,  Prince 
of  Wales  road 

Welbeck  st.,  Cavendish  sq. 

Well  street,  Jewin  street, 
Cripplegate /// 

,  South  Hackney  .  .  . 

Wellclose  square 

Wellesley  ores.,  St.  John'a 
Wood 

Wellealey  rd.,  Kentiah  tn. 

Wellealey  atreet.  Stepney  . 

Wellington  av.,  Holloway . 

Wellington  barraeka,  Bird- 
cage walk IV 


16 


54 


29 


'34 


Wellington  road,  Bridge 
road,  Batteraea 

Wellington  road,  St.  Jamea*a 
road 

,  St.  John^a  wood  road 

.  Bow  rd 

Wellington  row,Bethnal  grn. 

Wellington  aquare,  Chelaea 

Wellington  at.,  Camden  tn. 

,  Chelsea 

,  Kingsland  rd 

,  New  Kent  road .  /// 

,  Strand // 

Wells  place,  Camberwell  . 

Wells  street,  Camberwell  . 

,  Oxford  at / 

Wellafield  at..  Southwark  . 

Welsh  Chapel ..../,// 

Wenlock  basin,  Wenlock  rd. 

Wenlock  road,  Citj  road  . 

Wenlock  street,  Shepher- 
dess  walk 

Wentworth  atreet.  White- 
chapel     /// 

Werrington  at.,  Somera  tn. 

West  aq.,  St.  Oeorge*a  road 

Weat  at..  Mare  at..  Hackney 

,  Mile  end  Old  town 

,  Soho 

,  Well  atreet 

Weat  Brompton  railway  sta. 

West  Cromwell  road    .  .  . 

Weat  End  railway  atation. 

Weat  Ferry  road.  Millwall 

West  Ham  lane,  Stratford . 

Weat  India  docks 

Weat  India  dock  pier .  .  . 

Weat  India  dock  rail.  ata. 

Weat  India  dock  road.  .  . 

Weat  India  dock  road  rail- 
way station 

West  London  A  Westminster 
Cemetery 

West  Smithfleld  .   ,  .  ,  II 

Westboume  gro.,  Bayswater 

Westboume  park 

Westboume  park   crescent 

Westboume  park  railway 
atation.  Great  Weatem  rd. 

Weatboume  park  road    .  . 

Weatbourne  park  yillaa  .  . 

Weatboume  rd.,  Bamabury 

eaat,  Liverpool  road  . 

Weatboume  at.,y  ictoria  gate 

,  Pimlico 

Weatboume   terrace,  Hyde 

/  park  gardena    

Weatboume  terrace  north, 
Harrow  road 

road,  Harrow  road    . 

Weatcroft  rd 


m 


2a 


37 
31 


24 
7J 


11 


aa 


37 


€2 
61 

65 

63 


11 


17 


11 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


B  B   G 


43 


B    B  O 


Western  ter..  Hotting  hiU 
Weatmaeott  ftM  Oamberwell 
Weatminfter  abbey,  Old  Pa^ 

laee  yard IV 

Weftminster  bridge  .  .  /F 
Westminfter  bridge  rd.  /F 
Westminster  bridge  sta.  lY 
Westminster  cathedral,  Ash- 
ley pi /F 

Westminster  hospital,  Prin- 
ces street,  Victoria  st.  lY 
Westminster  pier,  Victo- 
ria embankment ,  ,  ,  lY 
Westminster  school  .  .  lY 
Westmoreland  pi.  ,Bayswater 

,  City  rd 

Westmoreland  rd.,Bayswater 

,  Walworth  road .  ,  . 

Westmoreland  street,  Mary- 

lebone / 

,  Pimlico 

Weston  St.,  Gr.  Dorer  st. . 

,  Pentonville 

,  Tooley  street  .... 

Wetherby  road,  South  Ken- 
sington    

Weytord  street,  Battersea. 
Weymouth  mews ,  Portland 

place / 

Weymouth  st,  Gt.  Portland 

street  / 

,  Hackney  rd 

Weymouth  ter.,  Hackney  rd. 
Wharf  road,  City  road    .  . 

,  Nth.  Greenwich    .  . 

,  Paneras  road  .... 

Wharfdale  rd.,  King's  cross 
Wharton  street,  Lloyd  sq. 
Whetstone  park ,  Lincoln^s 

inn  fields // 

Whiskin  street,  Olerkenwell 
Whiston  St. ,  Gr.  Cambridge  st. 
Whitcomb8t.,Pall  mall  east/ 
White  St.,  Bethnal  gm.  rd. 

,  Borough 

,  Moorfields 

White  Conduit  St. ,  Islington 
White  Hart  st.,  Kennington 
White  Horse  la..  Mile  end  rd. 
White  Horse  street.  Com- 
mercial road  east  .... 

,  Piccadilly .   .  .   .  /F 

White  Lion  street,  Norton 

Folgate 

,  Pentonrille 

Whitechapel  High  st.  .  /// 

Whitechapel  road 

Whitechapel  station.  .  .  . 
Whitecross  street,  Borough 
Whitefriars  St.,  Fleet  st.  // 
Whitehall lY 


40 


82 


35 


38 


22 


Whitehall  court .  .  .  .  /F 
Whitehall  gardens .  .  .  lY 
Whitehall  place  .  .  .  .  /F 
Whitehall  stairs .  .  .  .  /F 
Whitehead's  groTC,  Chelsea 
White's  Club,   St.  James's 

street lY 

White'sground,Bermondsey 
White's  row,  Spitalflelds  . 
Whitfield  st.»  Pitiroy  sq.  / 
Whitgift  St.,  Lambeth .  .  . 
Whitmore  road,  Hoxton  . 
Wick  road,  Homerton  .  . 
Wickersley  rd.,  Battersea  • 
Wickham  St.,  Lambeth  .  . 
Wicklow  St.,  King's  cross  rd. 
Widegatest.,  Bishopsgate  st. 

Wigley  road 

Wigmore  st.,  Garendish  sq.  / 
Wilcox  rd..  South  Lambeth 
WUd  court,  Gt.  Wild  street 
Wilfired  St.,  Westminster /F 
Wilkes  place,  Hoxton  street 
WUkes  street,  Spitalflelds 
Wilkin  St.,  Weedington  rd. 
WiUiam    street,    Adelphi, 

Strand // 

,  Islington 

,  Lisson  grove  .... 

,  Lowndes  sq 

,  Marylebone  lane    .  / 

,  New  Bridge  street  // 

,  Regent's  pk 

,  Stepney  green    .  .  . 

Willinghamter.,  Kentish  tn. 
Willis  road,  Prince  of  Wales' 

road 

Willis  street,  Poplar  .  .  . 
Willow  walk ,  Bermondsey 
Willow  bdg.  rd.,  Canonbury 
Wilmer  gardens,  Hoxton  . 
Wilmington  sq.,  Spafields  . 
Wilmot  place,  Camden  town 
Wilmot  St.,  Bethnal  gm.  rd. 
Wilson  road,  Peckham  road 
Wilson  St.,  Drury  lane .  // 

,  Finsbury  sq 

Wilton  cres.,  Belpave  sq. 
Wilton  place,  Knightsb  ridge 
Wilton  road,  Dalston  .  .   . 

,  Pimlico 

Wilton  St.,  Grosvenor  pi.  lY 
Wiltshire  road,  Brixton .  . 
Wimboume  St.,  N.  North  rd. 
Wimpole  St. ,  Gayendish  sq.  / 
Winchester  gardens,  Belsue 

nark 

Winchester  rd.,  Adelaide  rd. 
Winchester  street.  Borough 

market 

,  Pentonville  road  .  . 


3t> 


23 
il 
4W 
2d 


29 


30 
29 


31 
21 


27 


48 


SO 

I 
16 
13 

.   30 


67 


a 


60 


31 
44 
IT 
17 


17 


20 


31' 


38 


44 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINOIPAL  STREETS,  etc. 


B  B 


B    R  O 


Winchester  street,  Pimlico 
Windmill    iMie,    Deptford 

Lower  road 

Windmill  ft. ,  Canterbury  pi. 

,  Lambeth  rd 

y  Tottenham  court  rd.  / 

Windsor  pi.,  Denmark  hill 
Windsor  street,  Essex  road 
Windsor  terrace.  City  road 
Winsley  street,  Oxford  st.  / 
Winstead  St.,  Battersea  .  . 
Witherington  rd.,  Highbury 
Wobum  place ,  Russell  sq. 
Wobum  square,Bloomsbury 
Wolsey  road,  Kingsland 
Wood  street,  Oheapside  /// 

,  Bxmouth  st 

,  Westminster  .   .  IV 

,  Prince's  road,  Lam- 
beth  

Woodbridge  st.,Glerkenwell 
Woodchester  st. ,  Harrow  rd. 

Woodchurchrd 

Woodfield  rd.,  Harrow  road 
Woodland  street,  Dalston 
Woodpecker  rd..  New  Cross 
Woodstock  St.,  Oxford  st.  / 
Wootton  street,  Lambeth  . 
Worcester  street,  Pimlico  . 

,  Southwark 

World's  end  passage,  King's 

road 

Wormwood  st.,Bishopsgate 

street /// 

Worship  St.,  Finsbury  sq.. 
Wright's  lane,  Kensington 
Wright's  rd.  ,8 1.  Stephen's  rd. 
Wrotham  rd.,  Camden  town 


23 


26 


40 


11 


29 


Wydlfffs  rd.,  W an ds worth. 
Wye  flt.,  York  rd.^  Battereea 

Wyndbun  ilpeeti  Bryftueton 

' 

27 

30 
IS 

46 

Wjtidliam^B  ibeatTB   .   .  .7/ 

WfiifiMiig  naad 

W  yayatt  B  tFCfit,  Go  b  w^J  )  t  t>ad 

Talding  road,   Southwark 
park  road  ....*••• 

4 
36 

Yardley  street,  Exmouth  st. 
Tatton  street 

36 

68 
13 

26 
30 
20 

ao 

29 

fi9 
16 

33 

31 
26 
30 
5 

m 

Yeoman's  row,  Brompton  . 
York  bldgs.,Adelphi,  Strand 

York  gate.  Regent's  park  . 
York  place.  Baker  street   / 

,  ViUiers  street,  Strand 

// 
York  road,  Battersea    .   .  . 

,  King's  cross    .... 

,  Laxpbf^th  ,   .   T   .   .   . 

33 

13 

York  road  railway  station 

York   square.    Commercial 

road  east 

19 

York  street.  Baker  street  . 

,  Hackney  road.  .   .  . 

,  St.  James's  sq.    .  IV 

,  Walworth  road .  .  . 

,  Westminster  .  .   IV 

,  York  rd.,  Lambeth  . 

York  terrace,  Regent's  park 
Young  street,  Kensington  . 

Zoar  street,  Blaokfriars  .  . 

ZoologicalGardens,  Regent's 

park 

47 
1« 

37 

Leipzig,  Printed  by  Breitkopf  A  Hiirtel. 


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LEIPZIG:  KARL  BAEDEKER. 
1908. 


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A  FINE  IS  INCURRFD  IF  THIS  BOOK  IS 
NOT  RETURNED  TO  THE  LIBRARY  ON 
OR  BEFORE  THE  LAST  DATE  STAMPED 
BELOW.                                       • 

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